TEXTILE PROCESSING

ANISHA KUJUR
TD-5
PRODUCT- COTTON POLYESTER
BLEND PIECE DYED FABRIC WITH
CRISS CROSS WISE STRIPES SEMI
FORMAL SHIRT

Suitable dyes for cotton polyester blend fabric

Disperse dye for polyester
Reactive Dye for cotton

Cotton polyester blends are famous due to their aesthetic value

and user friendly performance. Limitations of both fibers are
balanced adequately by blending these two fibers making
perfect blend. However, the P/C blends posses some
challenges to dyer as polyester shows a hydrophobic character
while cotton shows a hydrophilic character making it inevitable
to dye them with chemically different class of dyes. According
to BTMA (Bangladesh textile mills association) Bangladesh
have more than 236 Dyeing industries. Cotton fabrics are
known to be more comfortable than the polyester fabrics.
Commercially polyester/cotton blended fabrics are dyed by two-
bath or one-bath two-step dyeing method employing suitable
dyes and chemicals for each fiber .The step of dyeing PC fabric
are followed by two ways which are known as the two bath and
one bath.
 Specifications
Polyester/cotton: 60/40
GSM- 129
GLM- 367.440
TC- 250

• In worldwide polyester cotton (PC) blended knit fabric is widely used

due to their good aesthetic properties. 100% cotton knit fabric shows
lower strength and crease resistance with higher absorbency where as
100% polyester fabric shows lower absorbency with higher strength
and crease resistance.
• But PC blended fabric shows moderate strength and moderate crease
resistance with an average absorbency. However, there are some
requirements when dyeing is carried out of this type of fabric as the
two fibres show two different types of characteristics.
• Cotton fibres show hydrophilic characteristics where as polyester
fibres show hydrophobic characteristics. For this reason, it is
impossible to dyeing polyester cotton blended fabric by using same
dyestuffs. Conventionally polyester cotton blended fabric dyeing was
carried out in separately using disperse and reactive dye with
adequate control of temperature.
• In HT dyeing method polyester part is dyeing at 1300 C temperature
and cotton part is dyeing at 600 C-800 C temperature. But it has been
needed to drain the liquor of disperse dye after polyester part dyeing.
Then in new liquor cotton part is dyeing by using reactive dye.
• It is possible to dyeing the cotton parts in the same liquor of disperse
dyes as the polyester part absorbs most of the dye molecules from the
liquor and there is no affinity of cotton fibres to disperse dyes. The
onebath dyeing process uses a separated high PH and low
temperature reactive fixation step after the high temperature, low PH
disperse dyeing to avoid a high rate of hydrolysis of both disperse and
reactive dyes under high temperature, or high PH dyeing environment.
• Materials and Methodology

PC blended knit fabric: PC is blended fabric made of both synthetic

polyester and natural cotton where polyester percentage is higher
than cotton percentage with a blend ratio of 2:1, 3:2 or 4:1. In this
research 2:1 blending ratio of PC fabric is used having 160 GSM of
plain single jersey structure.

Disperse dye: Normally disperse dyes are low molecular weight,

non-ionic mono azo and anthraquinone derivatives.
Hydroxyethylamino groups (NH-CH2-CH2-OH) and their substitute is
present in disperse dyes. Mechanically bonding is created between
disperse dyes and polyester fibres.

Reactive dye: The molecular structures of reactive dyes resemble

those of acid and simple direct cotton dyes, but with an added
reactive group. Typical structures include the azo (a), anthraquinone
(b), triphenodioxazine. The key structural features of a reactive dye
are the chromophoric system, the sulphonate groups for water
solubility, the reactive group, and the bridging group that attaches
the reactive group either directly to chromophore or to some other
part of the dye molecule. The chromophoric system consist of azo,
quinoid carbonyl, nitroso, nitro-group, carbonyl, vinyl group (-N=N-,
C=O, -NO, -NO2, >C=O, -C=C-) etc unsaturated group. Each of these
structural features can influence the dyeing and fastness properties

• Anti creasing agent

• Detergent
• Sequestering agent
• Antifoaming agent
• Stabilizer
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Peroxide killer
• Enzyme
• Buffer solution
• Dispersing Agent
 • Leveling agent
• Softener
• Gluber salt
• Soda ash
• Acetic acid

Scouring & Bleaching Combined Process:

Scouring is done to remove impurities present on the fabric such as oil,
wax, lubricants, dirt, surfactents, residual tints etc. where as bleaching is
done to remove the natural color from the fibres. Typically NaOH is used
at high temperatures for saponify and emulsify impurities in scouring
process. For bleaching H2O2 and stabilizer are used to remove the
natural color from fibres. H2O2 produces per hydroxil ions with the help
of stabilizer which can remove the natural color from the fibre.

Process
Scouring and bleaching is done combindly in 980 C for 1 hour
with the necessary chemicals menthioned in the table 1
Enzyme Bio-polishing and Dyeing Process
Scoured and bleached fabric is subjected to enzyme to remove the fuzzy
or projecting from fabric surface. After enzyme bio-polishing polyester
part of PC blend fabric is dyeing with disperse dye by the help of
dispersing agent at 1300 C temperature. After polyester part dyeing
cotton part of PC blend fabric is dyeing with reactive dye by the help of
salt and soda at 600 C800 C temperature.
Conventional Two Bath Process
In conventional process of PC blend fabric dyeing, liquor is drained after
enzyme bio polishing. Then polyester part dyeing of PC fabric is done and
the liquor is drained again. Cotton part is dyeing after the polyester part
dyeing. The above process for conventional two bath method is shown in
the figure 2 with the help of chemicals listed in the table 2.
One Bath Dyeing Process
In one bath process of polyester part dyeing all the existing
chemicals are used as like two bath method mentioned in table 2.
The problems of draining the liquor after enzyme wash and
polyester part dyeing is removed by one bath dyeing method. The
process is run by follow the figure 3.
 STYLE OF PRINTING - DIRECT

The printing method for polyester cotton blending waterproof

moisture permeable fabric, is characterized in that, comprises the
steps:

(1) printing paste is prepared: after fibre modification, get DISPERSE

DYES 10 ~ 15g, modified corn starch 30 ~ 40g, DISPERSE DYES basic
dyeing protective agent DO-180 0.5 ~ 1g, REACTIVE DYES 10 ~ 15g,
sodium alginate 6 ~ 8g, add appropriate distilled water, heat at 40 ~
60 DEG C in the reactor of band heating and stirring device and stir;

(2) stamp: immerse in the printing paste of preparation in step (1) by

the polyester-cotton blend grey cloth through modification, adopts
machine of magnetic rod printing machine to carry out stamp
process;

(3) fixation: the fabric after stamp in step (2) is dried, then carry out
fixation in the soda ash solution immersing 85 ~ 90 DEG C, the
fixation time is 15 ~ 30min;

(4) soap, wash, dry: the fabric in step (3) after fixation treatment is
carried out soaping and washing successively, mill base is all
removed, dry;

(5) padding finishing: the dried fabric of washing in step (4) is placed
in Water-proof liquid and carries out waterproof padding finishing;
• (6) dry, clot packaging warehouse-in.
 UV PROTECTION FINISH

• In the recent years, consumers have become increasingly

aware of the need for sun protection, which is related to the
incidence of sun induced skin damage and its relationship
with increased exposures to UV light. UV radiation can lead
to acute and chronic reactions and damage, such as
acceleration of skin ageing and sunburn. Billions of people
live on the earth and each has his or her own color of the
skin.
• A notable objective of increasing interest in this area is the
protection against UV radiation. The reason for this is the
tendency for human to suffer increased harmful exposure to
UV through natural radiation.
• All wave lengths of light including visible light affect fabrics to
some extent. There are two critical elements for
comprehensive protection and not just UV blocking property.
UV absorbers such as Benzotriazole and phenyl
benzotriazole, molecules are able to absorb the damaging UV
rays of sunlight. UV absorbers convert UV energy in to
harmless heat energy. This transformation is regenerative
and can be repeated indefinitely.
• The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of textiles depends on
their construction, the spaces between the yarns, their fiber
types, the color, the textile impregnation, and the presence of
optical brighteners and ultraviolet absorbers.
 Advantage of UV ptotection finish

Ultraviolet radiations accelerate the physical and chemical

deterioration processes of the polymeric substances such as
fading of colorants, yellowing of cellulosics, photo-oxidation of
polyolefins, embrittlement of coatings etc. It also creates
excited states and free radicals, which are capable of initiating
a large number of reactions, such as chain scission, cross
linking, oxidation, and polymerization. Apart from these
detrimental effects, UV rays can also lead to synthesis of new
polymers via cross-linking polymerization. Photo-degradation is
observed in almost every plastic material upon prolonged
exposure to sunlight, thereby restricting their application for
outdoor use. The degradation can be minimized by using UV
stabilizers, which dissipate the energy acquired from these
ultraviolet radiations in the harmless manner thus, protecting
the material, and getting themselves destroyed in the process.

UV Stabilizers /Absorbers

UV absorbers are organic or inorganic colorless compounds with

very strong absorption in the uv range of 290 – 360nm. UV
absorbers incorporated in to the fibers convert electronic
excitation energy in to thermal energy. They function as radical
scavengers and oxygen scavengers. The high energy short
wave UVR excites the UV absorber to a high energy absorbed
may then be dissipated as longer wave radiation. Alternatively,
isomerisation can occur and the UV absorber may then fragment
in to non- absorbing isomers.
 Requirement and selection of a ideal UV
absorber:
1. An effective UV absorber has to be absorb through out the
spectrum to remain stable against UVR and then to dissipate
the absorbed energy to avoid degradation of fabric or loss of
color value.

2. Highest absorbency in the ultraviolet region {290-340nm}

and no absorbency in the visible region.

3. Should be heat stable and compatible with other additives in

the finish formulation

4. Should be non toxic and non- skin irritant.

Types of UV absorbers

• Organic UV absorbers are derivatives of o- hydroxyl

benzophenones, o – hydroxyphenyltriazes, o – hydroxy
phenyl hydrazines. The ortho hydroxyl group in the
molecule helps in absorption and to make the compound
soluble in alkaline solution.

• The presence of in organic pigments in the fibers helps in

better diffusion of light from the substrate, thus providing
better protection. Titanium dioxide and other ceramic
materials have an absorption capacity in the UV region of
280-400nm and reflects visible and IR rays.
Technological options:
UV absorbers incorporated in dyeing decreases the dye
uptake, except in post treatment application. They are
compatible with dyes and are applied by normal padding,
exhaust, pad thermosol, pad dry cure methods. UV absorbers
are applied between 30-40g/l depending on the type of fiber
and its construction.

Limitation
The main limitations of UV are that they cannot be applied in a
single bath along with other finishing agents. Anything in
excess will have a detrimental effect on the fabric
ACRYLIC/WOOL BLEND WITH HEATHER-
LIKE EFFECT (MELANGE) WOMEN’S
SWEATER FOR AUTUMN WINTER
GSM - 200
Thread count - 120 x 84 (Epi x ppi)

SUITABLE DYE
Basic Dye
Basic dye is synthetic class type dyes. these dyes are
insoluble in water. Basic dyes are windly used for synthetic
materials Such as wool, silk, acrylic and acrylic/cotton. Dye
have good colouring agent. it is produce bright shade and
high tintorial value. Basic dye properties
• Basic dyes are insoluble in water.
• basic dye are soluble only in alcohol.
• Basic dye is synthetic class type dyes.
• Basic dyes have good affinity for synthetic materials.
• Basic dyes is windly apply on synthetic materials.
• basic dyes are also apply on silk, acrylic acrylic/cotton
materials.
• basic dye is produced bright shade.
• basic dye is a powerful colouring agent.
• basic dye is also called cationic dyes.
• levelling Properties of basic dyes is poor.
• basic dyes is used in acidic condition.
• fastness properties of basic dyes are avarage to good.
• basic dyes is produced excellent shade.
• basic dyeing is comparatively cheap process. and it is a
cheap in price. This article is also important, disperse dye.
DYE CLASS
The dyes used for acrylic fibers are –
• Disperse Dyes
– Low affinity
– Suitable only for pale to medium shades
• Cationic or basic dyes
– Most suitable dye class
– Can produce deep shades with good fastness
properties
– Widely used
• It can be done by
– Regulation of Dyeing Process
– Adding cationic or an anionic product to the dye bath.
– The dye cations absorbed initially on the fibre surface
resist diffusion into the interior of the fibre.
Any significant diffusion is possible only by the freeing
of the dye molecules from their local interactions with
the polymer. This is effected by elevating the
temperature of the dyebath. This temperature increase
make motions of the obstructing polymer chains also
become greater or easier. These two distinct effects of
temperature combine to assist the penetration of the
dye into the fibre.
– If the dye initially exhausts unevenly, it is then very
difficult to level the dye, so it is extremely important to
control the initial rate of strike. This initial rate of strike
is controlled by use of retarding agents.
The Dye molecules of basic dyes contains positive
charge during dyeing. Dyeing is done with good process
then results, even dyeing
BASIC DYES CLASSIFICATION
1. Basic dye, required to proper dyeing methods
otherwise uneven dyeing will occurs. So, dyeing
is done with very carefully.
2. After complete process, we get complete color
with good brilliant shades.
3. Good colour range or shades.
4. Even dyeing can be done with good guideline.
5. Washing fastness of Basic dyes are poor.
6. Light fastness is also poor.

Solubility
The Solubility of this dyes is very good with the
prences of glacial acetic acid. Normally, basic dyes
are insoluble in water but it become soluble with
the prences of glacial acetic acid.

Exhaustion
Basic dyes Exhaustion rate are variable its depends
upon the quality of dyes.
Affinity

Basic dyes have very good affinity towards silk,

acrylic, acrylic/cotton but basic dye have not affinity
for cellulosic materials. So is also called synthetic
class dyes. these dyes are windly apply on acrylic,
silk, wool, and also acrylic/cotton materials.
COLOURATION PROCESS
DYEING OF ACRYLIC FIBRES ACRYLIC FIBRES:
• Acrylic fibers are synthetic fibers made from a polymer
(polyacrylonitrile) with an average molecular weight of
~100,000, about 1900 monomer units.
• The polymer is formed by free‐radical polymerization in
aqueous suspension. The fiber is produced by dissolving
the polymer in a solvent such as N,N‐dimethylformamide
or aqueous sodium thiocyanate.
• Acrylic is lightweight, soft, and warm, with a wool‐like
feel. It can also be made to mimic other fibers, such as
cotton, when spun on short staple equipment.

The preparation of acrylic fiber materials:

• The preparation of acrylic fiber materials may involve
desizing of woven materials, scouring and bleaching.
Combined desizing and scouring are often possible since
relatively soluble sizing materials such as modified starch.
Polyvinyl alcohol is normally used. Scouring with weakly
alkaline solutions of ammonia or sodium pyrophosphate
(Na3HP207) is common.
• A non‐ionic detergent is essential. Cationic auxiliary
products may have substantively for the anionic groups in
the fibers and block dyeing sites whereas residues of
anionic product will interact with and even precipitate the
cationic dyes in the bath. Acrylic materials sometimes have
a slight yellow cast, usually a sign that drying was too
severe.
• Bleaching is possible with sodium chlorite (NaCIO2) and
formic acid or brightening with a fluorescent whitening
agent.
DYEING OF ACRYLIC WITH BASIC DYE

Dyebath preparation:
• The dye powder is usually made into a pastedwith
acetic acid and then mixed with boiling water.
Cationic dyes with delocalized cationic charges are
intensely coloured and it is essential to avoid dust
escaping from the powders.
• Concentrated liquid dyes do not have this problem.
Solid forms of these dyes are often not easy to
dissolve because of their tendency to form gummy
material. Preparation of a paste with methanol and
addition of warm or hot water is sometimes a useful
alternative.
• Some cationic dyes are not stable in boiling water.
Many react with alkali to give colorless products such
as the free amine from neutralization of an
ammonium ion group, or a carbine by reaction of the
cationic group with hydroxide ion.Dyeing with
cationic dyes therefore invariably takes place in
weakly acidic solution to avoid these problems.

They have some undesirable properties in respect of

dyeing:
– Poor solubility in industrial solvents
– High melting point making hot drawing difficult
– Low saturation absorption of dyes
DYEING OF ACRYLIC/WOOL BLEND WITH BASIC DYE
(CATIONIC DYE) OR METAL COMPLEX DYE:

Preparation of acrylic/wool blend fibers for dyeing:

(A) SCOURING
Scouring of acrylic/wool fibers with the following
recipes.
Non - ionic detergent – 1-2 gpl
Time – 2 hours
Temp – 80°C
Then the blend is conborised with sulphuric acid by
drying at 80-85°C and baking at 100- 110°C.

(B) BLEACHING
The wool component bleached with the following
recipe:
H2O2 – 2-5 gpl
Sodium silicate – 2-3 gpl
Time – 1 hours
Temp – 50-60°C
• Then yellowing of acrylic fibre remove by after
treatment with the help of formic acid.
• The yellowing of acrylic fiber remove by After
treatment with also the help of detergent.
(C) DYEING
After bleaching dyeing is carried out with the
help of following recipe:
• Cationic dye – x %
• Sulphuric acid (96%) – 3 %
• Formic acid (85 %) – 5 %
• pH – 2 – 3
• Pottasium bicarbonate – 0.03 – 0.1 % ( add if
necessary).
• Acrylic/wool blend dyeing process:
In this dyeing process, first off all the goods are
enterduce at 70°C and then raise the
temperature 80°C in 10 – 15 mint. Before adding
x% Metal Complex dye and then take 1 – 2 %
dispersing agent and then the dye bath is heated
100°C within 40 mint. Then dyeing is done at
100°C for 1hours (60 mint) then cool at 60°C and
then drain, wash, Soap, wash, and then finally
complete dry is required.

PRINTING OF ACRYLIC FABRIC WITH BASIC DYES:

Basic dyes have proved to be successful for the
printing of acrylic fabric and offer brightness and
good fastness to light and to washing. A wide
range of colours is now available in this dye class.
Fluctuations is pH can lead to colour changes.
Fixation of prints of basic dyes on acrylic fibres
follows the same mechanism as in dyeing
process. The dyes can only be fixed by steaming.
METHOD OF PRINTING: BLOCK &
SCREEN

STYLE OF PRINTING: DIRECT

RECIPE
Basic dyes upto 5 parts
Solvent Acetic acid 3 parts
Hot water 3 parts
25 parts Thickener (Gum Indalca AGBV 7%) 50
parts Citric acid 1 part Total bulk to 100 parts

• Preparation
Paste the dye with solvent & acetic acid, pour hot
water into the paste, add thickener to the above
paste & finally add predissolved citric acid.
• Procedure
The fabric is printed with above recipe, it is then
dried & steamed for 30 minutes at a pressure of 5
lbs./sq. inch. The printed material is rinsed &
soaped with 2g/l soap at 60 oC for 10 minutes.
The fabric is rinsed squeezed & dried.
FINISHES

AESTHETIC FINISHE

Napping
Napping is a mechanical finish in which woven or
knitted fabrics are passed against rotating, bristled,
wire-covered brushes. This action results in fibers being
raised form the fabric face. The overall effect is a fabric
with raised fiber surface. Examples of napped fabrics
are flannelette, canton flannel, rayon flannel, and
brushed rayon. Woolen and worsted napped fabrics
include kersey and wool fleece.
Napped fabrics have a softer hand and provide better
insulation than the same materials unnapped because
they can entrap more air, hence their wide use in
blankets, sleepwear, and winter clothing. However, the
insulting value of cotton and rayon napped fabrics is not
long lasting. The low resilience of these fibers causes
premature flattening of the fiber nap. The nap can be
partially restored by frequent brushing.
FUNCTIONAL FINISH

1. Antimicrobial/antifungal finishing:
Wool is relatively resistance to fungal and microbial attack
and this is probably because the keratinous proteins are
rendered stable to enzymatic degradation by virtue of their
disulfide cross links. The conditions favours mildew growth
on wool is high humidity, warmth and a medium pH of 6.5-
8.5. The fungal resistance can be improved by
impregnation with compounds like N-(2, 2'- dichlorovinyl)
salicyl armide, 0.01-0.25% solution of benzalkonium
chloride, salicylanilide, dedecyltrimethyl ammonium
chloride, dichlophen and pentachlorophenol. Phenolic
compounds are widely used as they have optimum activity
and can be incorporated into polymeric films, which can be
deposited from aqueous emulsions.

2. Moth proof finish

• Mothproof finish is directed towards the garment fur
moth the anthrrmus, attunes beetle etc, which live as
textile parasites on keratin contains substances. To
protect wool form attack of moth many organic and
inorganic compounds have been used [25, 26].
• Inorganic compounds - chromium fluoride, sodium silico
fluoride, antimony fluoride and salts of phosphotungstic
acid, antimony tungstic acid, molybdic acid.
• Organic compounds - Pentachloro phenol, DDT, Dieldrin
and Dinitro naphthol based acid dye (Mitin FF, Eulan
CN) 3. Modification of disulfide linkage (-CH2-S-S-CH2-)
in wool polymer into bis-thioether (-CH2-S-CH2-CH2-S-
CH2-) linkage by ethylene bromide and glyoxal.
3.Rot and mildew finish
Heavy infestation of natural fibre products results
in rotting and breakdown of the fibres and
subsequent physical changes such as a loss of
strength or flexibility may cause the fabric to fail
in service. High temperature, high humidity and
dark places favour their rapid growth. Treating
wool fibre with Organo-copper compounds,
Organo-tin compounds, and chlorinated phenols
can confer mildew resistance. These act by
interfering with the energy-producing processes
of microbial cells. Copper naphthenate and
copper-8-hydroxyquinolinate are extremely
versatile biocides, very effective against fungi,
bacteria and algae.

Following are some other finishes that are

suitable for acrylic sweaters:
• Antistatic finish
• Water repellent finish
• Hydrophilizing finish
• Phase-change finish (micro-encapsulation)
Abrasion resistance finishes
• Soil-release finish
• Flame retardant finish
• Softening
PRODUCT- 100% COTTON
BEDSPREAD WITH 4 COLOUR
GEOMETRIC PATTERNS
GSM- 80
THREAD COUNT- 200
100x100 (epi x ppi)
YARN COUNT- 80s

SUITABLE DYES FOR COTTON

• Direct Dyes
• Azoic Dyes
• Reactive Dyes
• Sulphur dyes
• Vat Dyes

CLASS OF DYE

Reactive Dyes
• The dyes have very stable electron arrangements and
can protect the degrading effect of ultra-violet rays.
• Textile materials dyed with reactive dyes have very
good wash fastness with a rating of 4-5 due to strong
covalent bonds formed between fibre polymer and
reactive group of dye.
• Reactive dye gives brighter shades and has moderate
rubbing fastness.
• Reactive dyes have good perspiration fastness with
rating 4-5.
COLOURATION PROCESS
DYEING OF COTTON WITH REACTIVE DYE

RECIPE
Wetting agent 0.2-0.5 g/L
Sequestering agent 1.0-2.0 g/L
Anti foaming agent 0.5-1.0 g/L
Dyes X%(As needed)
Glauber salt Yg/L (based on depth of
shade, deeper shade higher amount of salt)
Soda ash Zg/L (based on depth of shade,
deeper shade higher amount of alkali)
Lubricating agent 1.0-2.0 g/L
Temperature 50±5°C
Time 30-60 min
pH 10.5±0.5
M:L 1:5 – 1:10

PREPARATION OF COTTON FABRIC

Pre-Wash your fabric. This is a very important step. Use
HOT water and 1/4 cup Detergent (PTD) per machine
load. This will remove any dirt, grease, or other
gunk. Enzyme detergents are used to remove starch but
if you can't get any enzyme soap then adding 1/4 cup
soda ash along with your detergent will help. Fabrics
treated with permanent press, conditioners, sizing or
water proofing, etc are not recommended. This is a very
important step.
PREPARATION OF DYE BATH
Dissolve your dye. Paste up the Fiber Reactive
Dye with some warm water, pasting is a very
important step for getting dye dissolved properly.
Next, add about a cup of warm water to the dye
paste to make a well dissolved slurry. Finally, add
to the tub of warm water and stir to mix evenly.
Dissolve the Non-Iodized Salt completely in the
required amount of lukewarm (about 105ºF) tap
water and add to tub. You can use our finely
powdered Dyer's Salt.

PROCESS
• Add the fabric. Stir gently, but frequently, for
20 minutes. In a washing machine, set it to
agitate. With most machines you have to keep
setting it back to the beginning of the cycle.
Use a timer so you don't loose.
• Add the Soda Ash. Dissolve Soda Ash with hot
tap water and add slowly, over about 15
minutes, to the dye bath while stirring. Don't
pour it directly onto the fabric (concentrated
Soda Ash solution touching the fabric can leave
darker splotches!) When using a washing
machine, turn it off and use something to move
the fabric over to one side while adding the
Soda Ash in to the otherside. Mix the soda ash
solution into the water before stirring the fabric
around or turning the machine back on.
• Rinse & wash out excess dye. Use cool running water
until it runs almost clear, or put it through a couple of
rinse cycles in the washing machine. Then wash in HOT
water using Professional Textile Detergent to finish
washing out the excess dye.
• With some of the darker colors, like blacks or reds, a
second wash may be necessary. Additionally,
using Milsoft (a concentrated, professional fabric
softener) according to its directions will restore a
luxurious softness to fabrics that have been dyed.

Partial stripping is obtained by treating the dyed fabric

with dilute acetic acid or formic acid. Here the temperature
is raised to 70-100°C. The amount of acid used is as below:
• Glacial acetic acid: 5-10 parts
With water: 1000 parts Or
• Formic acid: 2.5 to 10 parts
With water: 1000 parts
Temperature: 70 – 100°C
Time: until desired shade is obtained.

AFTER TREATMENT
•In the dyeing of deep shades or inefficient washing
equipment there may be incomplete removal of unfixed
dye.
•After treatment with cationic dye fixing agent.
•Insolubilizes the unfixed dye.
•Improves wash fastness.
•Treated with 5-10 g/L cationic dye fixing agent at 50-60º C
for 10-30 mints.
•Treatment with dye fixing agent is not substitute of wash
off process.
PARAMETERS OF DYEING PROCESS
• pH – Strong alkaline pH is required ranging from
10.5-11.2.
• Temperature – Dyeing temperature depends on
the brand of dye used.
• Concentration of electrolyte – The depth of
shade is the determining factor of electrolyte
concentration.
• Time – Ranges from 60-90 minutes.
• Liquor ratio – Higher liquor ratio gives better
efficiency.

PRECAUTIONS
• Hot water should not be used for high reactive
dyes because there will be a possibility of
hydrolysis.
• Prepared dye solution can not be stored for later
use also because of dye hydrolysis.
• For making print paste, low reactive dyes are
used.
• It is dangerous if there is the inhalation of the
dust of reactive dyes, so a protective mask is
required.
• A limited storage period is applicable to most of
the reactive dye.
METHOD OF PRINTING: SCREEN

STYLE OF PRINTING: DIRECT

REACTION

RECIPE
Reactive dye : 2 parts
Urea : 5 parts
Resists salt : 2 parts
Soda ash : 1 parts
Sodium alginate : 65 parts
Water :25 parts
Total 100 parts

Preparation of thickener :
• 16 gm of starch and 200cc water are taken in bowl.
• Heat is applied and solution is stirred continuously
until a thick viscose solution is obtained.
• By continuous stirring and boiling a specific viscosity
is obtained.
• The heat application is stopped otherwise viscosity
falls down. So temperature is maintained strictly.
Preparation of printing paste :
• At first we take required amount of dyestuffs in a
bath.
• Then little amount of water is added into the bath
for mixing these dyes. And start stirring for mixing
the three types of dye.
• Then required amount of urea is added into the
dye bath.
• After then required amount of thickener is added
• Then continuous stirring is done for few minutes
for mixing all the ingredients of print paste.
• After mixing finally required amount of alkali is
added to the dye bath and mix them with the help
of stirring.

Printing process :
Screen printing method :
• The fabric is placed on the printing table of flat
screen-printing machine. The table is made of soft
by laying on it.
• Then the screen is placed on the sample fabric.
• The printing paste is taken on the screen
perforation.
• Thus we can find the printed fabric with a smooth
wooden strike the paste is spread over the screen
with slight pressure.
• So that the dye particles can penetrate through
the screen perforation.
Thus we get printed fabric.
FINISHES

AESTHETIC FINISHES

Calendering
Calendering is a final process in which heat and pressure are
applied to a fabric by passing it between heated rollers,
imparting a flat, glossy, smooth surface. Lustre increases
when the degree of heat and pressure is increased.
Calendering is applied to fabrics in which a smooth, flat
surface is desirable, such as most cottons, many linens and
silks, and various synthetic fabrics.

Chassing Calender
It is similar with swizzing calender
5-7 rolls are needed & all of them rotate with same speed
The major difference is “ the cloth makes several passage
through the nips before it exits to a take-up roll
The cloth is compressed as 5-6 layers being superimposed
and entering into the nip again
At this the weft of one layer will lie in between two adjacent
wefts of the next layer and give additional pressure
Roller pressure and this additional pressure soften the fabric
and gives a linen appearance (soft feel)

Advantage
• Gives very smooth linen appearance
• Produce soft handle
• More the fabric is passed, more the glazy appearance is
achieved
• Removes wrinkles and creases
Softening

•Some fabrics need to be softened to give a more

pleasant hand and to provide better drapability.
Finishes to make fabrics softer are used for this
purpose. Prior to being finished by a softening
process, the fabrics may have been harsh and stiff
because of their construction (i.e., tightly twisted
yarns, dense woven plain eave) or possibly due to
some prior finishing process. (i.e., heat-setting to
render the fabrics shrink resistant, resin treated to
make the fabric durable press).
Softeners can be classified as follows
•Anionic softners
•Cationic softners
•Non-ionic softners
•Reactive softners
•A softener or softening agent should not adversely
affect the shade of dyed of dyed or printed goods.
•Silicone emulsion is used for softening of all fibres
especially recommended for fabrics with highest
demands to degree of whiteness.
1)Soft Finishing
Padding Drying 110o C
Ultratex FMW 20-40 g/l
•Cationic softener is used for natural & synthetic fibres.
Soft Finishing
Padding Drying at 110o C
Sapramine OC 5-20 g/l
Cationic softner
•Cotton batiste, nylon taffeta, and polyester-cotton
blend broadcloth (the latter two have been heat-set
finished) are examples of fabric having softener
finishes.

FUNCTIONAL FINISH

Antibacterial and antifungus finishes

Antibacterial finishes are germicides applied to fabrics

to prevent odours produced by bacterial
decomposition, such as perspiration odours, and also to
reduce the possibility of infection by contact with
contaminated textiles. Fabrics may also be treated with
germicides to prevent mildew, a parasitic fungus that
may grow on fabrics that are not thoroughly dried. Both
mildew and rot, another form of decay, may also be
controlled by treatment with resins.
Materials
A plain cotton weaved fabric of 230 g m−2 (Saintyear
Holding Group Co., Ltd, China) was used in this study.
3-Mercaptopropyltriethoxysilane (KH-580) was
purchased from Sigma Aldrich (USA). Glycidyl trimethyl
ammonium chloride (GTAC) was obtained from Adamas.
All other chemicals were of analytical grade and used
without further purification (Sinopharm, China).

Treatments
Coarsening of cotton fabric was carried out by
treating the fabric in a sodium hydroxide and levelling
agent O (alkylphenol ethoxylates) solution in water at
70 °C for 20 min.
Then, 3-mercaptopropyltriethoxysilane (KH-580) was
dissolved in ethyl acetate to a concentration of 5%.
Cotton fabrics were treated in the KH-580 solution at
room temperature for 2 h at the liquor ratio of 1 : 50
under stirring.
Subsequently, the KH-580-pretreated cotton fabrics
were immersed in a water : ethanol (1 : 1 v/v) 5%
GTAC solution, at the liquor ratio of 50 : 1.23,24 The
pH value was adjusted to 8.5 with
Na2CO3/NaHCO3 buffer, which played a catalytic role.
The reaction was completed after 8 h at 40 °C under
gentle stirring. Finally, the cotton samples were rinsed
with deionized water and dried at 60 °C.
POLYESTER CREPE SARIS WITH 6
COLOUR FLORAL PATTERNS
INCLUDING BODY, PALLU AND
BORDER
A typical polyester crepe sari has the warp and weft of
100% polyester of 75 denier, the TPM of warp and weft
is 1800 S&Z alternate. No. of filaments in a yarn of both
warp and weft is 70 each. EPI is 132 and PPI is 86. It has
a width of 44.5 inches. GSM is 72.

DYE CLASS
DISPERSE DYE
Disperse dyes are used for printing Polyester fabric
Method of Printing: Rotary screen
• Style of Printing: Direct

RECIPE

Disperse dyes upto 5 parts Hot water

27-30 parts Citric acid
1-2 parts Thickener
60 parts (Gum Indalca AGBV)
Total bulk to 100 parts
PREPARATION:
The dyestuff is first dispersed with water, add
predissolved urea & carrier (if required), add
thickener & then finally add predissolved citric
acid.

PROCEDURE:

The fabric is printed with above paste, it is then

dried carefully & printed fabric can be fixed by
any of the following methods.
1.Steaming for 30-60 minutes at atmospheric
pressure where an addition of 3-6 parts carrier &
5-10 parts of Urea is made into the above recipe.

2. Steaming at a pressure of 30-30 Ib/ inch2 (125-

130o C) for a period of 30 –40 minutes. Where
no modification is made into the above recipe.

3. Curing or thermofixation at 180 –210 oC for 3

to 1 minutes where 10-15 parts of urea is
included to add the above recipe
• After fixation, printed fabric is thoroughly
rinsed in cold water & soaped at 70o C for 5-10
minutes with 2 g/l soap.
METHOD OF PRINTING: ROTARY
SCREEN PRINTING
The rotary screen printing machine resembles very much
the automatic flat-bed screen printing machine in all
respects except the rotary screen section. In rotary screen
printing, perforated circular metal screen are used for
printing instead of flat screens.The first rotary screen was
introduced by Stork of Holland in 1963.
Important features and Advantage(Rotary)
• Over 40-inch repeat size possible; Larger than roller
printing but smaller than flat screen method.
• Length wise stripe effect.
• Adaptable to all woven to all woven and knitted
constructions.
• Cleaner and brighter colors than on roller prints.
• Excellent color,definition, but less than flat screen
methods.
• Rapid changeover of designs possible
• Efficient for long runs and moderately small(1000) runs

Limitations and disadvantage Rotary screen

• Fine-line paisley prints(as produced in roller type) not
possible.
• Design is not economical for low production.
• Screen do not last as long as rollers.
FINISHES
AESTHETIC FINISHES

Softening
•Some fabrics need to be softened to give a more
pleasant hand and to provide better drapability. Finishes
to make fabrics softer are used for this purpose. Prior to
being finished by a softening process, the fabrics may
have been harsh and stiff because of their construction
(i.e., tightly twisted yarns, dense woven plain eave) or
possibly due to some prior finishing process. (i.e., heat-
setting to render the fabrics shrink resistant, resin treated
to make the fabric durable press).
•A softener or softening agent should not adversely
affect the shade of dyed of dyed or printed goods.
•Silicone emulsion is used for softening of all fibres
especially recommended for fabrics with highest
demands to degree of whiteness.
1)Soft Finishing
Padding Drying 110o C
Ultratex FMW 20-40 g/l
•Cationic softener is used for natural & synthetic fibres.
Soft Finishing
Padding Drying at 110o C
Sapramine OC 5-20 g/l
Cationic softner
•Cotton batiste, nylon taffeta, and polyester-cotton blend
broadcloth (the latter two have been heat-set finished)
are examples of fabric having softener finishes.
FUNCTIONAL FINISH
Flame retardant
•Flame retardant fabric may be defined as one that
does not propagate flame although it may burn or char
when exposed to heat. The term fire-proof or flame
proof can be applied to glass or asbestos fibers because
only a material which undergoes no change when
exposed to fire can be termed fire proof.
1)Flame retardant Finishing
Padding Drying 110o C
Pyrotex CP 350 g/l
Phosphoric acid -20g/l
Softners 5-10 g/l
Curing or High Temp. pressing 170o C
•Durable press fabrics containing polyester fibres are
known to show tendency to retain stains and also
attract soil from the wash liquor during washing. This is
due to hydrophobic nature of these fabrics. Various soil-
release agents have been developed. These are
described as durable film forming polymers containing
polymer groups which are capable of hydrogen bonding
with water. These finishes are applied by a pad-cure
process along with the resin.
•Treatment of synthetic fibers with hydrophilic
polymers is in general called soil release finishing, which
makes the soil adhereing the hydrophobic fibers more
accessible to water and easily removable.
•Taking the above points into consideration, the
surface treatment with sufficient hydrophilic
properties will bring out the following advantages:
•- Water/perspiration absorbency
- Easy oil removal, improved SR and OR (oil-
release) properties
- Improved anti-static properties

Soil-release finish
Soil release is the term used to describe the clean
ability of fabrics by the laundering process. Soils
can be defined as unwanted substances at the
wrong place. Most common soils fall into one of
four categories:
1. Water borne stains
2. Oil borne stains
3. Dry particulate soils and
4. Composite soils involving oil and grease
adsorbed on particulate matter. The soil release
chemicals reduce the problem of soiling in two
ways: repel the stains and soil using repellants such
as flourochemicals or create a surface that aids the
removal of soils when cleaning or laundering using
chemicals based on poly acrylic acid like
Polymethacrylic Acid and Methacrylic
Acid - Ethyl Acrylate Co-Polymers [8, 18, 30, 31].