INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS DS-30R-3 January 26, 2009

INCROQUAT™ BEHENYL TMS

Mild Conditioning Quat

INCI Name: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl

Alcohol

INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS is a quaternary conditioning agent and emulsifier

based on a C22 long chain fatty moiety, making it tremendously effective as a
detangler for hair, yet safe and gentle for leave-on skin care products. INCROQUAT
BEHENYL TMS is exceptionally mild and produces elegant cationic emulsions that
are substantive to skin and hair. These emulsions provide a soft powdery persistent
after feel on the skin and leave hair silky, smooth and tangle-free.

Benefits
• Excellent detangling/wet combing • Safe for leave-on skin care
• Enhanced conditioning • Soft, powdery skin
• Substantive to skin and hair • Feel resists rinse-off
• Exceptional mildness • Moisturizing effect
• Elegant cationic emulsifier • Non-irritating
• Thickening/bodying properties • Easy-to-use pastilles
• Gentle on skin

Applications
• Leave-on conditioners
• Rinse-off conditioners
• Hair relaxers/straighteners
• Hair dyes
• Creams & lotions
• High load silicone emulsions
• Shaving products

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Croda Inc 300-A Columbus Circle, Edison, NJ 08837 Tel 732-417-0800 Fax 732-417-0804 Website www.crodausa.com Sederma, Inc. Tel
732-692-1652 Fax 732-417-0804 Croda Inc West Coast Sales Office 9545 Santa Anita Ave, Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730 Tel 909-980-
2510 Fax 909-476-7304 Croda Miami Inc 200 South Park Road, Suite 303, Hollywood, FL 33021 Tel 1-888-84CRODA Fax 954-989-8186 Sol
Kaplan & Son PO Box 240234 Memphis TN 38124-0234 Tel 901-685-0323 Fax 901-763-3612 Croda Canada Ltd 221A Racco Parkway,
Vaughan, Ontario L4J8X9 CANADA Tel 905-886-1383 Fax 905-886-4753

The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its
completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the
suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to
information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third
party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks identified herein are
trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
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 INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS

As a C22 quaternary, INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS belongs to the behenyl class of

surfactants and is available as the methosulfate form of the behenyl quat supplied in
cetearyl alcohol. The advantages INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS offers in terms of
lower irritation, more conditioning, better thickening, enhanced skin feel and improved
stick structure are direct results of this composition. It is supplied as an easy-to-use
pastille at 25% active. Recommended use levels are 1 - 10% in hair and skin
applications.

INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS

+
CH3
|
CH3—(CH2)21—N—CH3 CH3SO4
|
CH3

Quaternary Ammonium Compounds and How They Work

Quaternary ammonium compounds are the primary and most frequently used
conditioning agents. Their great popularity is due to the lubricity and static control
they provide and to the conditioning benefits they offer in terms of detangling,
combability and feel. The desirable conditioning properties of quats are largely the
result of the substantive behavior of these compounds.

Substantivity is an adsorption phenomenon by which materials that have opposing

charges or like compositions to a substrate are more readily adsorbed onto or
attracted to its surface, and once there, are resistant to subsequent rinse-off.
Chemically, quaternaries are a class of materials that contain at least one
tetrasubstituted nitrogen, meaning they always carry a positive charge and are
cationic regardless of pH. Adsorption tends to increase with an increase in the charge
density of the quat at higher pH (>6.0). The complex protein of the hair fiber also
contains chemical groups that are electrostatically charged. The surface of healthy
virgin hair is neutral at pH 3.7 (IEP) and has a negative charge above this pH.
Damaged or chemically treated hair has more negative sites. This increase in
negative charge is primarily due to an increase in cysteic acid in the hair fiber.
(Cysteic acid is a derivative of cysteine and forms when disulfide bonds are broken
and not completely reformed as such.) Given that they have opposing charges,
quaternaries are strongly attracted to the negative sites on the protein and are
inherently substantive to hair.

The enhanced feel properties of quats are due to the presence of fatty alkyl groups
on the cation. The positively charged cation makes the whole molecule substantive in
that the attached fatty chain also adsorbs onto the hair surface. This occurs because
the formed quat micelles adsorbed at the hair surface solubilize the fatty alcohol. It is
this fatty moiety and its hydrophobic properties that account for the high lubricity
quats confer and the associated improvements in detangling and combability.

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 INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS

Static electricity is the primary cause of flyaway and often occurs with combing.
Repeated contact and subsequent separation of hair and comb during the act of
combing generates positive charges causing them to accumulate on the hair. The
occurrence of flyaway depends on three factors: the magnitude of the positive
charge, its mobility and rate of dissipation from the hair fibers, and the distribution of
the charge along the length of the combed hair fibers.

Quaternary compounds are known to reduce the incidence and/or severity of flyaway.
First, they provide lubricating action which reduces the combing forces (friction and
tangling) between the dry hair fibers and the comb, thus lessening the magnitude of
the positive charge on the surface of the combed hair fibers. Secondly, they increase
the surface conductivity of the hair. This causes the rate of charge dissipation from
the hair fibers to be much faster, resulting in less of a net generated charge on the
surface. Lastly, quaternaries allow for better moisture retention. When the water
content at the hair surface is increased, there is a corresponding increase in surface
conductivity. With less charge density and higher conductivity at the hair surface,
flyaway is eliminated and the hair lies smooth again.

Hair Care
Due to its long chain, INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS is more hydrophobic in nature
than conventional quaternaries. This results in better deposition of both quat and lipid
on the hair surface. The hydrophobicity and deposition behavior of INCROQUAT
BEHENYL TMS gives it excellent wet combing properties, yet allows it to condition
without the build-up associated with many polymeric quats. The following bar chart
depicts the results of salon trials comparing the conditioning effects of INCROQUAT
BEHENYL TMS (BTMS), as compared to Stearalkonium Chloride (S-85).

Superior Conditioning of INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS

120

100

80

60
S-85
40
BTMS

20

0
ity g el ng
a bil m b in t Fe
n gl i
ad o e ta
C W
re et De
Sp W

Figure 1: In a salon study, panelists prefer INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS as compared to Stearalkonium
Chloride, especially in wet combing, wet feel and detangling properties

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 INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS

Also, its exceptionally mild properties make it an ideal choice for leave-in
conditioners. Because it can function as the primary emulsifier, INCROQUAT
BEHENYL TMS can be used as the sole oil-phase ingredient in 'bare-minimum'
conditioners, allowing an economical product to be produced without sacrificing
performance. INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS has also shown superior results in
ethnic hair care systems, leaving a softer feel and greater sheen in comparison to
stearalkonium chloride, making it a conditioner of choice for relaxers. Because it is
substantive to hair, it imparts excellent body and spring and improves wet combing.
In cream rinses it enhances manageability by reducing flyaway and can sometimes
add an interesting pearlescent effect to the emulsion.

Skin Care
INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS forms elegant cationic emulsions, allowing formulators
to produce skin creams and lotions that have a soft, powdery after feel and resist
rinse-off. It is capable of emulsifying high levels of silicone, an ingredient that is
normally extremely difficult to emulsify.

Croda had a two part, double-blind independent clinical study conducted to evaluate
the irritancy and skin care properties of a selection of quats, as delivered from a
prototype lotion at 1% active. Behenyl methosulfate quats were found to have a long-
lasting moisturizing effect on the skin in-vivo and to be non-irritating, both in vitro
and in vivo.

Testing consisted of an in-vitro bioassay for cytotoxicity using a MatTek Epiderm Skin
Model and an in-vivo clinical trial for evaluation of irritancy, moisturization and barrier
skin function. The results of 15 days of testing also determined that skin treated with
lotions containing Behenyl methosulfate quats undergo no barrier dysfunction
(unaffected TEWL scores) and resist insult by LAS.

The reason the INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS ingredients showed such a virtual lack
of irritation may be due to their much lower Critical Micelle Concentration (CMC)
which is unique to the methosulfate form of the behenyl quat. This low CMC means
that there is very little of the monomer present in the quat. It is in this monomeric form
that the surfactant is more likely to penetrate into human tissue and become a source
of irritation.

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 INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS

TYPICAL ANALYSIS

APPEARANCE Pastille
COLOR (Gardner) 1 max.
ODOR Characteristic
pH (1%) 6.0 - 7.0
MELTING POINT (Slip) 60°C (app.)
FREE AMINE (MW: 378.3) 2.0 Max
% ACTIVES 24.0 - 26.0%

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 INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS

DEEP CONDITIONER WITH HYDROTRITICUM™2000 HP-148-2

This formula provides a deep conditioning beauty treatment which is especially
effective on chemically treated hair. It is designed to be left on the hair for 10-15
minutes and then rinsed off. HYDROTRITICUM 2000, a wheat protein with
moisturizing and film-forming properties, helps to prevent further damage to the hair.
INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS is a cationic conditioner and emulsifier that provides
softening effects and improves wet comb. CRODAMOL™ PTIS, an emollient, and
INCROMECTANT™ LAMEA, a humectant, help to give hair a smooth, silky feel.

Ingredients %

PART A
INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS (Behentrimonium Methosulfate
(and) Cetearyl Alcohol) 6.00
INCROMECTANT LAMEA (Acetamide MEA (and) Lactamide MEA) 1.00
Deionized Water 80.94
PART B
CROVOL™ A-40 (PEG-20 Almond Glycerides) 0.50
BRIJ™ S2 (Steareth-2) 0.50
CRODACOL™ C-95 (Cetyl Alcohol NF) 2.00
COSMOWAX™ J (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20) 2.00
CRODAMOL PTIS (Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate) 1.00
Mineral Oil, 70ssu 3.00
PART C
Triethanolamine, 99%, 10% solution 0.06
PART D
HYDROTRITICUM 2000 (Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) 2.00
Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben
(and) Propylparaben)1 1.00
PROCEDURE
Combine ingredients of Part A with mixing and heat to 80-85°C. Combine ingredients
of Part B with mixing and heat to 80-85°C. Add Part B to Part A with mixing and cool
to 45°C. Continue mixing and add Part C. Add ingredients of Part D individually with
mixing and cool to desired fill temperature.

pH=4.5± 0.5; Brookfield Viscosity = 120,000cps ±10% (RVT T-C, 5rpm, @ 25°C)

1) Germaben II, ISP

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 INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS

LOW SOLIDS MILD CATIONIC LOTION SC-192-1

The remarkably effective emulsifying and conditioning properties of INCROQUAT
BEHENYL TMS are manifested in the elegance of this low solids lotion (7.67 by
weight), as evidenced by both the appearance and feel of the formulation. In low
solids systems, INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS is able to form emulsions that have
sufficient viscosity to maintain their integrity, easing the difficulty of producing these
systems. The lotion acquires its exceptional application characteristics—from rub-in
to dry-down—and its powdery, long-lasting afterfeel from this cationic conditioner.

Ingredients %

PART A
INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS (Behentrimonium Methosulfate
(and) Cetearyl Alcohol) 1.17
POLAWAX (Emulsifying Wax NF) 1.00
CRODACOL S-95 (Stearyl Alcohol NF) 0.33
CRODAMOL PMP (PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate) 1.00
CRODAMOL PTC (Pentaerythrityl Tetracaprylate/Tetracaprate) 0.67
Mineral Oil, 70ssu 1.00
Snow White Petrolatum 2.00
Dimethicone 200SF 350cps 0.50
PART B
Deionized Water 83.33
Glycerin 8.00
PART C
HYDROTRITICUM™ 2000 (Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) 1.00
Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben
(and) Propylparaben)1 1.00
PROCEDURE
Combine ingredients of Part A with mixing and heat to 75°C. Combine ingredients of
Part B with mixing and heat to 75°C. Add Part B to Part A, mixing well. Continue
mixing and cool to 45°C. Add ingredients of Part C with mixing and cool to desired fill
temperature.

Brookfield Viscosity = 3,900cps ± 10% (RVT #3, @ 10rpm, 25°C)

1) Germaben II, ISP