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W5
HAIRDRESSING I Grade Level Nine
Quarter THIRD Date Week 5
Features
Ammonium thioglycolate is a colorless, clear liquid with a strong ammonia
odor. Depending on the other ingredients in the perming lotion, the solution may
not appear clear.
Function
Ammonium thioglycolate permanently changes the structure of hair. Treated
hair remains either curly or straight, depending on application technique, until new
hair growth requires an additional perm or straightening service.
A post on the MadSci Network from Dan Berger, a faculty member of Bluffton
College's Chemistry Department, discusses the chemistry of perms. Hair primarily
consists of a protein called keratin. Keratin contains a large proportion of the
amino acid cysteine. Hair gets its shape from disulfide bonding between protein
chains. These disulfide bonds form between atoms of sulfur found in the cysteine
molecules.
Perming lotions containing thioglycolate break the disulfide bonds of hair
proteins. Stylists shape hair with curlers or straighten using ceramic irons. Perm
neutralizers containing hydrogen peroxide form new disulfide bonds, making hair
either permanently curly or straight, depending on the application technique.
Warning
The material safety data sheet (MSDS) for ammonium thioglycolic acid lists
potential hazards from inhalation, ingestion, and skin contact. Thioglycolate is
"toxic if swallowed," irritates eyes, and causes an allergic reaction in some users.
Prolonged or repeated use may lead to skin sensitization and sores. The MSDS
states that three agencies (NTP, IARC, and OSHA) do not list thioglycolate as a
cancer-causing agent known as a carcinogen.
The active ingredient in perming lotion, ammonium thioglycolate, is not
biodegradable and harms water life. The perming lotion bottle should be
completely empty before putting it in the trash. Avoid rinsing from hair in a way
that contaminates surface water or soil.
Prevention/Solution
Wear gloves when working with thioglycolate, the active ingredient of perming
lotion, helps prevent skin irritation and sensitization from repeated exposure. Do not
use perming lotion on a person who shows signs of sensitivity, such as an irritated
scalp. Never reuse towels to wipe away excess perm lotion; this may lead to
inadvertently getting perming lotion in a person's eyes.
Minimize contact with the scalp when applying perm solution. Wash all the
perming lotion from hair with warm water as soon as the perm is completely
developed.
Wash skin immediately with soap and water if the perming solution gets on your
skin during application. Wipe drips from the scalp as they occur.
Suggested
IV. LEARNING PHASES Learning Activities
Timeframe
Flush eyes for ten minutes with cool water if perm lotion gets in your eyes. Contact
a doctor for further instructions.
Apply perming solution in an area with good air circulation. Open windows to
get fresh air in small spaces like bathrooms. If you notice breathing irritation from
the ammonium thioglycolate, go outside for fresh air.
Call Poison Control immediately, if someone digests perm solution. The
ammonium thioglycolate is toxic. Do not induce vomiting. Rinse mouth with water
and spit out. Then drink a few glasses of water and seek immediate medical
attention.
Considerations
Perming lotion and straightening formulas containing ammonium thioglycolate
are not compatible with previous lye-based hair relaxing treatments. Special perm
lotion formulations exist for highly processed hair showing signs of chemical
damage.
For optimal results, salon clients should not wash their hair for forty-eight hours
after curling or straightening treatments with perming lotions containing
ammonium thioglycolate.
PERM SELECTION
The type of perm chosen depends on the total hair evaluation and the
client’s wishes. The following is a general guide for choosing an alkaline or an acid-
balanced perm to use based on client’s hair types.
HAIR TYPE PERM TYPE
Coarse, resistant Alkaline lotion wrap or alkaline water wrap
Fine, resistant Alkaline lotion wrap or alkaline water wrap
Normal Alkaline water wrap or acid- balanced
Normal porous Alkaline water wrap or acid- balanced
Normal, Delicate Acid-balanced
Tinted, non-porous Alkaline water wrap or acid- balanced
Tinted, porous Acid-balanced
Highlighted/frosted/dimensio Acid-balanced
nally colored
Highlighted tinted Acid-balanced
CRITERIA 10 8 5
EXCELLENT GOOD FAIR
Content Information about Information about the activity Information about the activity
the activity done done is not complete; one item done is not complete; 2 or more
is complete. is not included. items not included.
Presentation The idea is clearly The idea is moderately clear. The idea is not clearly
articulated. articulated.
Grammar Writing is generally Writing includes a small number Frequent errors in spelling,
and Spelling free of errors in (1-3 instances) punctuation, and grammar,
spelling, of errors in spelling, and meaning is not
punctuation, and punctuation, and grammar, communicated.
grammar. but the meaning is
communicated.
Reference:
Boulianne, Carla. 2017, September 28. What Is the Active Ingredient in Perming Lotion?. Retrieved from:
https://oureverydaylife.com/what-is-the-active-ingredient-in-perming-lotion-12148753.html
Del Rosario- Patiño, Mary Jane. 2016, June. Rex Books Store. Hairdressing Volume I. pp.50-52, 59, 63