Damp cloth This is helpful in checking the spread of heat, thus reducing the risk of panel

distortion.

7.2 Hot shrinking process

Arrange your tools so that they are within easy reach,

as it is necessary to change quickly from one tool to
another when performing a shrinking operation
(Figure 7.1). Locate the highest point in the stretched
section of the panel with which you are working.
Light the torch and heat the spot to approximately 10
mm diameter in the centre of the high spot or
stretched area to a cherry red, using a circular motion
when heating the spot. Be careful not to burn through
the metal by overheating. As soon as the spot is
cherry red place the shrinking dolly (grid dolly),
which is usually fairly flat, under the spot and strike
several sharp blows with a mallet around the heat
spot; this will force the surplus stretched metal into
the heat spot. Then the blows are directed on the
centre of the heat spot, which pushes the metal down
while it is still red-hot. At all times the dolly block
must be held loosely against the underside of the
panel, exactly centred under the heat spot. After four
or five mallet blows, the last being on the centre of
the heat spot, the heat spot will turn black, and
should be quenched immediately with water filled
sponge. Repeat this operation taking the next highest
spot in the stretched section of the panel, until the
bulge or fullness is finally shrunk down below the
level of the surrounding surface. It can then be
brought up to its correct level by planishing with a
hammer and dolly and then finishing with a panel
tile.
The following points should be noted:
1 Never quench a red-hot heat spot: wait until the
metal has turned black.
2 Never heat an area greater than that, which can be
hammered with mallet and dolly.
3 Never use anything but an oxy-acetylene welding
torch for heating a stretched section. Figure 7.1 The technique of hot shrinking

4 Never attempt to shrink a panel until it has been roughed out.

5 Always hammer the stretched section outwards before applying heat.
6 If the stretched part of the surface is small, make a smaller heat spot.
7 It is possible to shrink metal without quenching each spot. However, the shrinking operation is
much faster when each spot is quenched with water, as fewer heat spots are required if the heat
expansion is drawn out by quenching than by additional spots.
8 In some panels it is possible to use a spoon for the backing tool for the hammering oper ation,
especially on door panels or over inner constructions.

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9 When performing a shrinking operation, take care to avoid over shrinking the panel. This will
cause the metal to warp and buckle both in and out of the stretched area, owing to overheating of
the stretched section. If this does arise, heat a small spot in the area where the panel is buck ling,
apply a dolly block or spoon with enough pressure to hold the buckling section up, then allow the
metal to cool. Do not use the mallet or water in this case. In extreme cases like this it may be
necessary to repeat this operation in several different places in the buckled section.

7.3 Shrinking aluminium

Sheet aluminium can, with the application of heat, be subjected to shrinking. The process is similar
to that used for sheet steel except that the work should be carried out faster than when shrinking
steel. This speed is essential because aluminium is a good heat conductor and the spread of heat
must be prevented from distorting adjoining panels. Unlike steel, aluminium does not change
colour when heated and, because of the melting temperature differences, great care must be taken
not to melt holes in the panel while it is being heated.

8 Filing

Filing is one of the most important aspects of finishing a body panel. It is carried out using an
adjustable file holder, fitted with flexible blades, which can be adjusted concave or convex to suit
most contours on the average vehicle body. Initially the file was used for smoothing off panels
prior to sanding and locating high and low spots. With the introduction of body solder and later
metal and plastic fillers, filing took on an even greater importance in the finishing of repairs on
body panels. Filing indicates any irregularities in the repaired surface of a panel, and is carried out
as the panel is planished. First of all fasten the correct file blade to the file holder with the cutting
edges of the teeth facing away from the handle
or operator. Adjust the contour of the file
holder so that it is almost, but not quite,
matching the contour of the surface on which
you intend to work.
One hand is used to hold the file handle, while
the other grasps the knob at the opposite end.
The file should be applied with long, straight
strokes, pushing it away from you along the
length of the panel (figure 8.1).
Figure 8.1 The technique of filing.

Short, jabbing strokes should never be used, as these will only scratch the panel and will not
indicate low spots. If the file digs in, too much pressure is being applied and hence a need for
reduction is essential. At the end of the first stroke, raise the file and, without dragging it over the
metal, bring it back to the starting position and make a second stroke. Repeat this procedure until
the area has been covered, making the file marks parallel to one another. This is termed line filing,
and indicates the levelness of the panel in the direction in which it has been filed. At this point both
the high and low areas will show up. The high spots can be corrected by spring hammering and the
low spots by direct hammering, pick hammering, or in some cases by using the corner of a dolly
block. Line filing indicates curvature in one direction only, and as most panels are double curved
the panel surface must be cross-filed to give an accurate contour check. Cross-filing means a

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change in the direction of the file strokes so that the file is moved at an angle between 45° and 90°
over the previous file strokes, thus checking the accuracy of the curvature in that direction.
After filing, and prior to refinishing the panel, the damaged area is sanded using a fine-grit sand ing
disc, which leaves a smooth, even surface ideally suited for painting.

9 Body fillers

Before applying primer to a panel, all imperfections should be removed. Although metal straightening
techniques are used to remove most damage, it is generally necessary to fill low spots or other small
defects. It is almost impossible to eliminate all dents, pits, and hammer marks without using filler
materials. The three basic filler materials used in the body shop include:
 Body fillers.
 Spot putties.
 Glazing putties.
In this chapter body fillers are discussed. In another chapter the putties are described.
Note: Several of the chemicals used during filling operations can damage automotive finishes. Addition-
ally, a great deal of dust is created when sanding filler materials. Therefore, it is advisable to cover or
mask surrounding areas. A sheet of plastic can be used to protect vinyl tops, interiors, and engine
compartments.

Filling techniques have always been used in the auto body repair industry. Body fillers are commonly
used in areas where dents are difficult to remove, such as in sections that are impossible to reach with a
hammer, spoon, or dolly. Even when pull rods are used, some filling may be required. Nevertheless, body
fillers should only be used when warranted. Filling should not be a substitute for professional
metalworking processes. Technicians often misuse fillers with little regard for professional reputation or
first-rate work.
A damaged area must be cleaned to bare metal before applying any type of filler.

There are two basic types of body fillers used today: solder fillers and plastic fillers.

9.1 Solder fillers

Solder is an alloy of tin and lead. Solder alloys containing 70% lead were originally used for auto body
repair. Consequently, the terms lead and leading have become associated with this filler. When applied
properly, solder bonds very well to sheet metal and will not crack, peel, or flake. Additionally, a limited
amount of hammer and dolly work can be performed after the solder has been applied.
WARNING: Precautions should be taken when using any compound that contains lead. To prevent
inhaling smoke and sanding dust from lead-based products, always wear an approved respirator when
working with these materials. Lead can accumulate in the body and cause various nervous system
disorders, paralysis, and death. Never smoke or eat while working with lead products.
Solder filling is a slow, expensive process that requires considerable skill. Although automobile
manufacturers no longer use solder, it is still preferred by some auto body personnel. Restoring classic
automobiles, performing custom work, filling weld seams and windshield posts, and forming edges on
panels and doors are the most common applications of solder filling.

Filling dents with solder

After cleaning the area to be soldered, brush a tin based soldering paste (mixture of acid, ground lead,
and tin) that contains flux on the area. Use a heavily carburising oxyacetylene flame to heat the base

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metal and the paste/flux. This process is called tinning. Tinning will help the solder adhere to the base
metal. If necessary, an acid-based solder can be used instead of soldering paste to tin the surface. Melt
the solder onto the damaged area. While the solder is soft, use a heavy rag to wipe excess material from
the centre of the dent outward. The area should have a bright, shiny appearance.
As solder (usually in bar form) is melted onto the tinned area, a wooden paddle (spatula) is used to
spread and level the soft material. Solder is added until the area is filled. It requires a great deal of skill
to add solder while working the soft, hot material with the wooden paddle. Only apply enough heat to
keep the solder - plastic, but not molten.
Once the solder has cooled, water should be used to neutralize and clean the repair. A metal body file
and a sanding board can be used to smooth and level the filled area. The repair should be cleaned with
bare-metal cleaner/etcher before it is primed. If the repaired area is not cleaned properly, residual acid
will eventually cause the finish to blister.

9.2 Plastic Filler

Most shops now use plastic materials to fill low spots and other imperfections. Plastic fillers have re -
placed lead in most facilities. Plastic fillers have the consistency of putty and are often packaged in
plastic bags or metal cans. Several companies sell dispensing devices to facilitate the use of these
materials. There are two types of plastic fillers used in repair work:
 Polyester resin-based filler.
 Epoxy resin-based filler.

Both polyester and epoxy fillers require the use of a chemical hardener (catalyst), which must be
thoroughly mixed with the resin-based filler. Talc is the most common filler in the resin base, but
glass fibers, clay, glass beads, aluminium flakes, and other materials are also used. Polyester resin-
based fillers are the most common plastic fillers used in the body shop. They are considered to be
general-purpose fillers. Polyester fillers are generally applied with a putty knife and can be worked
for approximately 10 minutes before they begin to harden.
Epoxy resin-based fillers are generally stronger and more expensive than polyester fillers. They bond
well to both steel and aluminium. Depending on the manufacturer, the working time for epoxy fillers
varies from 5 minutes to 1 hour.

Filling Dents with Plastic Filler

Before applying plastic filler, the area to be repaired must be sanded to bare metal. A coarse abrasive,
such as #24 open grit, should be used to roughen the surface slightly, providing a good bonding
surface for the filler. Additionally, the surfaces surrounding the damaged area should be cleaned with
a grease and wax remover. If the surrounding surfaces must be feathered, #80 grit abrasive should be
used to taper back the paint.
Always mix fillers according to the
manufacturer's instructions. In most cases, two
materials are provided: a filler resin and a
hardener (catalyst), see figure 9.1. The materials
should be mixed together with a putty knife.
Always knead the mixture instead of stirring it.
Kneading will help to prevent air bubbles,
which cause pinholes in the applied filler. Most
technicians prefer to mix the ingredients on a
sheet of glass, a polyethylene board, or a
plastic-covered piece of cardboard.

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 Figure 9.1 Follow manufacturer's instructions and
mix only enough body filler to re-establish the
original surface contour.

After the filler is properly mixed, it can be applied to the damaged surface with a plastic spreader or
a wide putty knife. Apply the mixture to the work area with a downward-sideways motion to force
out air bubbles. Use long, unidirectional strokes. Direction changes may lift the filler applied during
previous strokes. If the damaged areas are very deep, it is advisable to apply several thin layers of
filler. Do not spread filler over paint. It will not adhere properly and will eventually peel. Plastic fillers
should never be used in areas were flexing may occur or where strength is required. If an area must be
filled to an exposed edge or lip, solder should be used at the edge. Do not use plastic fillers to form an
edge.
All resin-based plastic fillers will shrink slightly as they cure. Be sure to allow sufficient time for each
layer to harden before subsequent layers are applied. Although hardening times vary, most fillers form a
firm bond with the base metal in 10 to 15 minutes. Clean unused filler from the mixing board and
spreader tool before it hardens. Some technicians use a disposable paper cover on the mixing board to
simplify cleaning tasks.
After the filler has cured for about 5 minutes, a surform
file can be used to shape and smooth the filled area,
figure 9.2. The filler should be easily worked or. If the
filler sets for too long, it will be too hard to shape with
a surform file. When this occurs, the file will leave
white streaks in the filler. A body file may be required
to shape hardened filler. Remember, the surform file is
a fairly crude tool and should only be used to obtain
general surface contour.
Figure 9.2 A surform file is used to remove
partially cured filler.

The actual curing time of any filler will depend on the age of the resin and hardener, the temperature and
humidity in the shop, and thickness of the filler layers. Too much hardener will speed curing time, but
may result in a porous, poorly bonded repair. As a rule, more catalyst can be used when applying a thin
layer of filler than when applying a thick layer. Heat from the chemical reaction of the catalyst is more
quickly dissipated in thin layers. Although heat lamps can be used to speed curing, care must be taken to
prevent overheating. Overheating can result in porosity, poor bond strength, and blistering.
After achieving the general contour with a surform file, a sanding block or reciprocating sander should be
used to smooth the filled area and blend it with the surrounding contour. The sanding block is essential
for removing high spots. Rough sanding should be done using a #40 grit abrasive and long, crisscrossed
strokes. Finish sanding may be done with a sanding block or an orbital sander, beginning with #180 grit
abrasive and progressing to #280 grit abrasive. The finished area should be cleaned and primed
immediately after sanding to prevent moisture from penetrating the filler and oxidizing the base metal.
Most fillers are hygroscopic and porous, which means they will absorb moisture. If moisture is allowed
to permeate the filler layer, the metal surface under the filler will rust and the filler-to-metal bond will
deteriorate.

10 Undercoats

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Before a colour coat or finish coat can be applied, the bare metal or plastic surface must be properly
prepared. After sanding and cleaning, an undercoat should be applied. There are three types of
undercoats used for auto body repair: primers (prep coats), primer-surfacers, and sealers.

Primers
Primers are designed to improve paint adhesion
on plastic and metal surfaces. Primers are
sometimes called prep coats. The term prep coat
implies that the substrate is being prepared for a
final coating. These materials may be formulated
to prevent rust and corrosion or to improve
adhesion. An appropriate primer is extremely
important when refinishing plastics. See figure
10.1. Figure 16-4
Primers are used to prepare the substrate to receive
the topcoat.
Figure 10.1 Primers are used to prepare the
substrate to receive the topcoat.

There are two basic types of primers: lacquer-based primers and enamel-based primers. Many technicians
prefer enamel-based primers because they are more durable and have slightly better adhesion properties
than lacquer-based primers. Lacquer-based primers, on the other hand, dry faster than enamel primers.
Primers are intended for improving adhesion and will not fill most imperfections. When metal or plastic
surfaces require filling, a primer-surfacer should be used.
To maximize adhesion, a three-step process should be followed to clean bare metal. Before applying the
primer, clean the surface to remove oil, wax, and polish. A metal conditioner is then used to remove any
rust or corrosion. Finally, apply a conversion coat to improve adhesion.

Primer-surfacers
Before the colour or finish coat is applied to a
bare substrate, a primer-surfacer is often
applied. Primer-surfacers fill imperfections,
improve adhesion, and prevent rust and
corrosion. See figure 10.2. Several coats of this
material can be quickly applied. Primer-surfacers
will dry about 20-30 minutes.
Figure 10.2 Primer-surfacers fill imperfections in
the substrate.

When thoroughly dry, the primer-surfacer is sanded to provide a smooth, flat surface. Some primer-
surfacers can be wet sanded; others are not water resistant and should not be subjected to moisture.
Primers that are not water resistant may absorb water. Any moisture trapped in the primer-surfacer
eventually rust the metal substrate.
There are three general types of primer-surfacers: lacquer-based primer-surfacers, enamel-based primer-
surfacers, and two-component primer-surfacers.

Sealers
Sealers (primer-sealers) are used to prevent topcoat solvents from penetrating primer-surfacers. See
figure 10.3. In other words, they improve hold-out (the property that prevents the topcoat from sinking
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into the primer-surfacer). Sealers are often used when recoating enamel or lacquer finishes. They are also
used to seal sanding scratches. This helps reduce sand-scratch swelling, which occurs when solvents
soften and swell the edges of sanding scratches. Sealers are not to be used as a primer. Sealers are applied
over primer-surfacers (or original finishes) before the new topcoat is applied.
Most manufacturers provide two different formulations of sealers, sanding sealers and non-sanding seal-
ers. A sanding sealer will have more pigment than a non-sanding sealer and can be sanded to improve
surface quality. Non-sanding sealers are used in areas that are difficult to sand, such as the inside of
hoods and door jams. Lacquer-, enamel-, and
water-based sealers are available.
Any time lacquer is to be applied over enamel, a
sealer should be used. Special sealers are used
to seal reds, maroons, and other dark colours if a
new light topcoat is to be applied. These
materials help prevent the old colour from
bleeding through to the new topcoat. Sealers do
not fill imperfections or adhere well to bare
metal.
Some manufacturers offer universal sealers,
which can be used under any type of topcoat.
Nevertheless, it is recommended that products
(paint, solvent, sealer, etc.) from one
manufacturer be used.
Figure 10.3 Sealers prevent the topcoat from
penetrating the primer-surfacer.

11 Putties

There are two types of putties:

 Spot putty
 Glazing putty.

Spot putty
When repairing small, shallow imperfections on paint films and primers, spot putties are often used. Spot
putties are generally made of the same basic materials as primer-surfacers, but have a high concentration
of solids (90%). These putties have the consistency of toothpaste. Some manufacturers recommend one
type of spot putty for lacquers and another type for enamels.
Spot putty should be applied with a putty knife. Two or more thin coats of putty are better than one thick
coat. As the solvents in the putty evaporate, thick layers tend to shrink more than thin layers. This may
cause cracking, separation, and poor adhesion. Most spot putties cure (harden) in approximately 30
minutes. After the putty is dry, it can be sanded, primed, and painted with a colour topcoat. Because spot
putties are solvent-based, solvents in the topcoat may cause the putty to soften. This can cause marks in
the topcoat.

Glazing putty
The term glazing putty is sometimes used to distinguish between polyester or epoxy resin-based putties
and solvent-based spot putties. Glazing putties must be thoroughly mixed with a hardener (catalyst)
before being applied. A putty knife is used to apply these putties over small imperfections. Like spot

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putties, most glazing putties will cure in about 30 minutes. After the putty has hardened, it can be sanded
and finished.
In many applications, glazing putties are preferred to spot putties because they do not bleed, lift, or soften
when topcoats are applied. Glazing putties contain 80% solids.

3 Panel replacement
3.1 Determining spot-weld position
3.2 Separating spot-welds
3.3 Separating continues welds
3.4 Preparing the vehicle for installation of the new panel
3.5 Preparing the replacement panel
3.6 Fitting the replacement panel
3.7 Cutting the over lapping panel
3.8 Welding new panels

4 Panel adjustment
4.1 Hood adjustment
4.2 Trunk lid adjustment
4.3 Fender adjustment
4.4 Adjusting doors

5 Glass replacement
5.1 Removing glasses held by weather stripping
5.2 Checking the windshield opening flange for damage
5.3 Preparing the opening for glass installation
5.4 Installing the glass
5.5 Removing glasses held by adhesive
5.6 Installing the glass
5.7 Replacing movable glasses

6 Surface refinishing preparation

6.1 Cleaning the car
6.2 Determining the type of old paint
6.3 Removing old paint
6.4 Treating bare metal surface
6.5 Applying the under coat
6.6 Masking
6.7 Preparing a vehicle for complete repainting

7 Body paint (Application of colour coat

7.1 Preparing the paint
7.2 Adjusting the spray gun
7.3 Applying the paint film
7.4 Drying the paint film
7.5 Polishing the paint
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