Laboratory Guide Automatic Transmission

Laboratory guide Automatic Transmission
DUTY 1: SERVICING TORQUE CONVERTER

Once the converter is removed from the vehicle, check it for possible defects while it is on the
workbench. These checks include visual inspections and several dynamic checks and tests.
Perform these procedures whenever the same converter is to be reinstalled.
Visual Inspection
The drive studs or lugs that attach the converter to the
flexplate and the drive hub that connects the converter to
the transmission are the two areas most prone to external
physical damage. On some torque converters, the starter
ring gear mounts on the front cover of the converter rather
than on the flexplate (see figure besides). With an integral
ring gear, check also for damaged gear teeth and cracked
or broken welds.
Drive Stud or Lug Inspection

A converter uses either drive studs or welded
drive lugs to secure the unit to the flexplate.
These couplings and the pilot position the con-
verter so that it runs true with the engine.
Problems here cause misalignment, which can
lead to pump bushing damage and may be the
source of a drive train vibration. Check the studs
or lugs to see that they are tight and have
good threads. Look for damaged stud
shoulders and broken welds (figure on the
right). If the studs or lugs are damaged or
loose, replace the converter. If the internal
threads of a lug are stripped but there is no
other damage, you can often repair the
threads.
Converter Hub Inspection

Check the converter hub for nicks, burrs, and signs of discoloration due to overheating.
Light scoring can often be corrected by carefully polishing the hub with crocus cloth. Be
sure to cover the hub opening to prevent dirt from entering the converter while polishing it.
After polishing, clean the hub thoroughly with a solvent-soaked shop rag, dry with
compressed air, and inspect. Replace the converter if the scoring is deep, since polishing
cannot correct this condition.
Dynamic Bench Tests

There are three quick dynamic bench tests that evaluate the internal condition of a torque
converter. To conduct two of these procedures, the transmission front pump, or stator
support, is required to engage the internal splines of the converter.
Maichew Technical College, November 2004. Laboratory guide Automatic Transmission Service Page 1
Stator-to-Stator Interference Test
This check ensures there is sufficient clearance
between the stator and impeller. To test, do the
following:
1. Place the transmission front pump assembly on the
workbench, facing upward.
2. Fit the converter over the pump to engage the stator
support splines. Rotate the converter slightly to make
sure the hub is in mesh with the pump drive gear or
rotor.
3. Hold the pump from moving as you rotate the
converter counter clockwise, see figure on the right.
If the converter binds while rotating or makes a loud
scraping noise, the stator and impeller are in contact
with each other; replace the converter.
Stator-to-Turbine Interference Test

Similar to the previous test, this procedure checks
for clearance between the stator and turbine. To
test, do the following:
1. Place the converter on the bench with the drive
hub facing up.
2. Fit the front pump assembly onto the converter
to engage the stator support with the stator and the
converter hub with the pump drive gear or rotor.
3. Insert the turbine shaft through the pump and
rotate it slightly to engage its splines with the
turbine hub.
4. Hold the pump and converter from moving as
you rotate the turbine shaft, see figure. The turbine
should turn freely in both directions. If it does not
turn freely, replace the converter.
Stator One-Way Clutch Test

The most common method of testing stator clutch
action is to insert one finger into the splines of the
inner race. Try to turn the inner race in both directions.
It should turn clockwise freely but lock up when
turned counter clockwise (see figure on the right).
This quick check is a go/no-go test. It does not
indicate a failure in its early stages.
If the one-way clutch fails these tests, replace the
converter. If the converter passes all three dynamic
tests, continue by checking the internal endplay of
the unit.
Internal Endplay Check
A dial indicator and special holding tool are used to check the internal endplay of a torque
converter (see figure besides). Although each transmission manufacturer has its own
holding tool design, all of these tools are similar and are used essentially the same way. To
check:
1. Insert the holding tool all the way into the converter hub until it bottoms. Tighten the
tool in place to lock it to the turbine splines.
2. Attach a dial indicator and position it so the indicator plunger contacts the converter hub,
then zero the dial indicator.
3. Lift the tool upward as far as it will go and read the dial indicator.
This dimension is the internal endplay; compare to specifications for the particular torque
converter being measured. As a rule, expect internal endplay to be less than 1.27 mm on a
non-locking converter. If the reading exceeds the specified endplay, replace the converter.
CONVERTER REBUILDING
It should be noted here that automatic transmission technicians typically do not rebuild or
even clean damaged or contaminated torque converters. The primary reason for this is that
it is more cost-effective to simply replace the converter. Rebuilding and flushing are
labour-intensive operations. However, segments on rebuilding and flushing are provided in
this shop manual as nice-to-know information.
Disassembly, Cleaning, and Inspection

Always begin by solvent washing and air-drying the outside of the converter housing. A
clean unit is easier to handle and work on; it also helps keep machinery clean and can
extend the life of your cutting tools. Once the converter is clean, inspect the exterior
surfaces for damage as previously described.
Disassembly
Since a modern converter housing is welded together, it is necessary to cut through the
weld in order to separate the pieces. This is done on a lathe. A special adaptor plate uses
the crankshaft pilot and drive lugs on the converter to mount it on the lathe. To get a clean,
true cut there must be no run out at the converter hub.
Proper lathe set-up is important. A skilled machinist will separate a weld while removing
very little metal from the converter housing itself. If too much metal is removed, the pieces
will not align properly during reassembly. Once the lathe is adjusted, take light cuts to
open up the housing.
After cutting open the converter housing, remove the unit from the lathe, then separate the
housing and lift out the internal components. There are no fasteners holding the pieces
together; separate the pieces for cleaning and inspection.
When rebuilding a converter, the hub is automatically replaced. Since the hub is welded to
the cover, it must be cut off. Again, this operation is performed on a lathe.
Cleaning and Inspection

Most converter parts are cleaned in a solvent tank or spray booth. Spray booths work well
for cleaning the impeller, stator, turbine, and converter cover. Generally, wash the one-way
clutch, thrust washers, bearings, and smaller parts by hand and inspect them. Remember,
some friction materials are not compatible with solvents. If the converter cover contains a
clutch lining, remove the lining before washing the cover in solvent. After the initial
cleaning, inspect all the pieces.
The primary wear areas of a torque converter are the converter hub, crankshaft pilot, drive
lugs or studs, thrust washers, and clutch linings. Generally, replace the hub and clutch
lining whenever overhauling a converter. A worn crankshaft pilot can be built up by weld -
ing, then machined back to standard size. Defective drive lugs are cut off and new ones are
welded in place. Cutting and welding can also replace the turbine drive hub.
Pay close attention to where the vanes attach to the impeller, stator, and turbine during
inspection. Use a brush or small scraper to remove any residual dirt or debris from the
crevices. Most vanes are crimped into position and it is fairly normal for them to loosen up
while in service. Some converter vanes are brazed or welded in place, and it is not
uncommon for these welds to break due to high centrifugal forces. Secure any loose vanes
by spot welding.
Disassemble, clean, and inspect the one-way clutch assembly. Look for worn or damaged
rollers, sprags, or springs as well as scored or damaged surfaces on the inner and outer
races. Solvent-wash the pieces and replace any defective ones, then reassemble the one-
way clutch.
Unless there is damage other than wear, replace the friction material lining and reuse the
lockup clutch piston. Remove the old lining material by machining, or with a solvent that
will break the bonding agent. Check the damping springs for breakage, loss of tension, or
loose fit and replace as needed. A special heat press is needed to bond the new friction
lining to the piston.
Assembly and Testing

Begin assembling the converter by stacking the components on an alignment fixture. Once
all the pieces are in position, measure the internal endplay and correct as necessary. Adjust
endplay using selective thrust washers.
After setting the internal endplay, mount the unit in a
special converter-welding machine. The welder holds
the converter hub in a chuck and positions the pilot and
drive lugs on a surface plate. A dial indicator is used to
make sure the converter components are properly
aligned and at the correct height. Once things are
properly positioned, secure the assembly by tack
welding the housing at several locations along its
circumference. Finish the job by setting up the machine
to weld a bead around the converter housing. Once set
up, the machine makes the welds automatically and
ensures a continuous even bead, good penetration, and
even heat distribution (see figure on the right). The
next step is to test for leakage.
Converter Leak Test

An air-pressure test is performed to make sure
the welds seal the converter assembly. A special
test fixture seals off the hub opening on the con-
verter, and then air pressure is applied through a
valve on the fixture (see figure). Test pressures vary by manufacturer, so be sure to check
proper service information sources. As a rule, Chrysler and General Motors converters test
at about 550 kPa, while Ford recommends about 140 kPa of pressure for their converters.
With the converter pressurized, check for leakage in one of two ways: sink the unit in a
water bath, or apply a soap solution to the welded areas. With both methods bubbles will
appear as a sign of escaping air. Bubbles may not appear immediately, especially if the leak
is small or the converter is cold. In fact, it may take as long as 10 minutes for bubbles to
appear. Look for leakage along the hub, housing seam, and drive lug or stud welds. Also,
check the entire housing surface for pinhole leaks, especially where any vanes are spot-
welded inside. If bubbles appear, relieve the pressure, repair the leak, and retest the
converter. If no bubbles appear after 10 or 15 minutes, the converter is free of leaks and
ready for balancing.
Balancing
The final step in a converter overhaul is
balancing, which is performed using a
special balancing machine, see figure on the
right. Balancing a converter is complicated
because, depending upon conditions, the
three major components can rotate
individually or as an assembly. During the
balancing operation, the turbine and stator
must be held centred in the housing to keep
them from upsetting the overall balance.
The machine spins the converter to check
how well it is balanced. When the machine
detects an imbalance, it indicates where it
originates on the converter and how much
weight is needed to compensate for it.
Weights are spot-welded onto the housing to
bring the assembly back into balance. After
balancing, seal the hub opening to keep dirt out of the assembly until the torque converter
is installed.
CONVERTER CLEANING
The torque converter contains a complex network of vanes that can provide places for
contaminants to hide. If a contaminated converter is put back in service, these contaminants
can once again circulate in the fluid. To prevent future damage to the converter and
transmission, the converter must be flushed and cleaned or replaced.
As previously mentioned, automatic transmission technicians typically do not clean or
flush converters. Cleaning and flushing procedures are labour-intensive and replacement is
more cost-effective.
The centrifugal forces that occur inside an operating converter tend to pack any particles
circulating in the fluid tightly into corners. Over time, a considerable amount of spent
friction material and other debris can build up where the vanes attach to the impeller,
stator, and turbine. The only way to thoroughly clean a converter is to disassemble it.
Converter Flushing
Flushing can be done by hand or, more effectively, using a flushing machine. Both methods
use solvent to break down and remove sludge. Both procedures are explained here. Be
advised, there are some torque converters that should not be solvent-flushed. Cleaning
solvents have the potential to destroy or weaken the bonding that holds the friction lining
to the converter cover through chemical action. There is an alternative solvent-free
cleaning method for these converters, which is also detailed.
The best advice when flushing is to follow the procedure the converter manufacturer
provides in their service manual. If there are doubts about the friction material condition,
replace the lockup converter rather than flushing it. There must be a drain plug on a torque
converter in order to flush it, but many torque converters do not have drain plugs. In these
cases, drill a drain hole into the converter housing. However, this is not recommended;
internal components can be damaged if a hole is drilled in the wrong location and metal
chips or shaving ,, will fall into the converter. To avoid these problems, it is best to replace
the converter with a rebuilt unit if it does not have a drain.
Hand Flushing
To hand flush a torque converter, do the following:
1. Place the converter on its front surface in a clean
container of suitable size.
2. Pump or pour at least 1.9 litres of clean solvent
into the hub, see figure.
3. Rotate the converter vigorously to slosh the
solvent throughout.
4. Turn the turbine and stator with dummy input
and stator shafts to remove any contaminating
particles.
5. Stand the converter upright so solvent flows out
the drain hole. Rotate and shake the converter
while draining the solvent to keep any metal
particles in suspension.
6. Repeat the procedure until the solvent that drains out of the converter is clear and free of
contamination.
Solvent left in the converter can affect transmission seals, so it is important to get it all out.
To do so, pour at least 1.9 litres of the appropriate Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
into the converter, shake it, and then allow it to drain. Repeat if the fluid does not drain out
clean. Install the drain plug to complete the task.
Machine Flushing
Machine flushing is better than hand flushing for removing contaminants from a torque
converter. There are several different types of flushing machines available, and there may
also be slight differences in their operation. In general, the flushing machine rotates the
internal components of the converter while pumping solvent through it. Some models
automatically add timed blasts of compressed air to the solvent as it enters the converter.
When using a flushing machine, be sure to follow the instructions specified by the
manufacturer to ensure that the converter is properly cleaned. As with hand flushing, drain
all of the solvent and then rinse the unit out with fresh transmission fluid. Be sure to
properly seal the drain opening before returning the unit to service.
Cleaning without Solvent

Flushing a torque converter with solvent might damage the bonding between the converter
cover and the friction lining. In this case, clean the converter using fresh ATF rather than
solvent. To flush, pour at least 0.95 litre of ATF into the converter through the hub. Work
the fluid into the converter by shaking the housing and rotating the turbine and stator with
dummy shafts. Continue shaking the converter to keep particles in suspension while
pouring the fluid out through the drain hole. Repeat this process several times to clean any
loose debris from the torque converter. If this method does not clean the converter, replace
it.
DUTY 2: SERVICING CONTROL UNIT
Transmission Disassembly, Cleaning, and Inspection

Component cleaning and inspection are important aspects of automatic transmission repair.
Inspecting the disassembled parts with care can identify whether other problems exist.
Carefully cleaning and inspecting the transmission parts can prevent future transmission
failures.
Transmission disassembly varies between models and manufacturers, so there is no stan -
dard procedure.
KEEP IT CLEAN
Cleanliness is the key to a successful overhaul. The work area must be large enough for an
organized disassembly and wiped clean before beginning the teardown. To keep things
clean, you should pressure-wash, steam-clean, or solvent wash the transmission to remove
road grease before placing it on the bench. Have shop rags readily available to wipe up any
ATF that leaks from the case as parts are removed. Also, keep hands and tools clean and
dry.
When an overhaul job is left on the bench overnight, cover all the components with clean
cloths. Handle all parts carefully to avoid nicking or burring any bearing or mating
surfaces. Wash all metal parts with solvent, then dry with moisture-free compressed air.
While solvent washing, direct a stream of solvent through any oil passages to make sure
they are clear. Do not use solvent to clean clutch friction discs and bands as it can destroy
them. As a rule, friction plates are replaced during an overhaul. However, the old ones
should still be cleaned and inspected for unusual wear patterns. To clean friction elements,
wipe them down with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth.
The following are parts you normally do not clean, but rather discard and replace with new
ones: gaskets, oil seals, o-rings, metal sealing rings and fluid filters.
After removing a part, or subassembly from the transmission, wash it in the solvent tank,
dry it with low-pressure compressed air, visually inspect it, and place it on the bench, in
order, with other removed parts. Cleaning parts one at a time makes sense for two reasons:
it keeps the work area clean, which makes handling the parts easier, and it minimizes the
amount of hazardous waste material generated during teardown.
TRANSMISSION ENDPLAY
Measuring and recording the endplay of the transmission is the first step of a transmission
teardown. Every automatic transmission needs a specific amount of endplay. The endplay
is the front-to-rear clearance along the centreline of the input and output shafts. With too
little endplay, the gear train can bind, seize, or lock up. Too much endplay can cause harsh
and noisy operation, as well as fast and uneven wear on the gear train parts. Worn sealing
rings, especially rings with metal rings, are a common result of too much transmission
endplay. Look for a ring wear pattern that is considerably wider than the ring itself.
Automatic transmissions contain several thrust washers and bearings. Manufacturers usu -
ally identify these in numerical order from front to rear through the transmission case
(figure above). At least one of these washers or bearing races is selectively sized to
establish transmission endplay. The only way to determine the thickness of a selective
thrust washer is to measure it with a micrometer. To do this, the thrust washer must be out
of the transmission. The total endplay must be measured in order to calculate how much
correction is needed when reassembling the transmission.
On most transmissions, input and output shaft endplay is measured with a dial indicator.
The method and location for mounting the dial indicator varies slightly for each
transmission model.
Total endplay is measured at the front end of the input shaft. Some transmissions also
require measurement of the output shaft endplay at the rear of the transmission, or the
transfer shaft endplay at the driven gear of a transaxle drive link assembly. Check the
service manual for the particular transmission to determine how many endplay
measurements are required. Each measurement provides a reference for selecting the
correct replacement for one of the thrust washers, bearings, or spacers.
Input Shaft Endplay

The procedure to measure input shaft endplay is
similar for most transmissions. Manufacturers may
publish minimum and maximum measurements, or
provide an ideal setting with a plus or minus
tolerance. Allowable shaft endplay varies by
transmission. Minimum required clearance runs
anywhere from 0.03 to 0.91 mm. Expect maximum
clearances to fall somewhere in the 0.48 to 2.31
mm range. Accurate specifications are important;
check the service manual for the transmission you
are working on.
Measure endplay as follows:
1. Mount the dial indicator in one of the following
ways:
a. Remove one bellhousing-to-case bolt or front
pump-to-case bolt. Install a slide hammer bolt
in its place and mount the dial indicator
(see upper figure on the right).
b. Attach the dial indicator-mounting clamp
to the front flange of the bellhousing (see
lower figure on the right).
2. Firmly push, but do not force, the input
shaft into the case as far as it will go to
remove any free play.
3. Position the dial indicator plunger on the
front of the input shaft as close to centre as
possible. Adjust the indicator so there is a
light preload on the plunger.
4. Make sure all lash is out of the gear train, then zero the dial face of the indicator.
5. Move the gear train and input shaft as far forward or upward as possible without using
force. On some transmissions, you can move the entire gear train by rising up on the output
shaft. For others, you may need to remove the oil pan and gently pry up on the input shell
with a large screwdriver.
6. Check the dial indicator reading and compare it to manufacturer specifications. Record
your findings because you will need the endplay measurement on reassembly.
If endplay is outside tolerance: replace the thrust washer or thrust bearing with one that
will bring endplay as close to the minimum setting as possible. Use the same procedure to
check endplay on assembly and make sure the
correct selective thrust washers or bearings are
installed.
INSPECTION OF TRANSMISSION OIL PUMP
Gear and Rotor Pumps
On gear and rotor pumps, the gears and rotors must be indexed before being removed.
Stamped index marks are often provided by the manufacturer (see figure on the right); if
not, make them. Mark indexes with chalk, marking pen, or Prussian blue. Do not use a
punch; this can damage the parts.
Inspect the condition of the pump housing and stator support. Look for damage on the sta -
tor support splines and metal oil-seal rings. Inspect bushings for signs of wear; replace
them if worn.
If the pump contains a pressure regulator valve, remove the valve for inspection (figure on
the right). Check the valve, springs, spacers, and
bore. Look for scoring, corrosion, cracks, and
distortion. Check for restrictions in the pump
housing fluid passages. Check for excessive
wear, scoring, and damage on gear and rotor
teeth, and for scoring on pump housing and
stator support gear face contact surfaces.
If the pump passes a visual inspection, continue
the evaluation by measuring clearances. To
provide an adequate oil supply, pump clearances
must be within tolerance. Clearances are checked
with a feeler gauge and straightedge. If any
clearance measures out of limits, replace the entire pump assembly. Manufacturers pro vide
clearance specifications for some or all of the following:
end, side and tip.
End Clearance
End clearance is the distance between the gear or rotor face
and the machined surface of the stator support. Fit the gears,
rotors, or vane assembly into the pump body to check
clearance. To measure, place a straightedge across the pump
body and use a feeler gauge to check the distance between
the straightedge and the gear, rotor, or vane assembly faces
(figure on the right).
Side Clearance
Side clearance is the distance between the circumferences of the outer gear or rotor and the
wall of the machined bore in the pump body. Side clearance equals the thickest feeler
gauge that will fit between the outer gear and pump body (see left figure on upper side of
next page). Check for variation by measuring at several locations. If the pump uses a
crescent, also check
clearance between both
the gears and crescent.
Tip Clearance
Tip clearance is generally specified only for rotor pumps. Turn the rotors to align a peak on
the inner rotor with a peak on the outer rotor. Tip clearance equals the thickest feeler gauge
that will fit between the peaks of the inner and outer rotors (see right figure, above). Take
readings on several rotor tips to check for variation.
Vane Pumps
To inspect a vane-type pump, first check for signs of
wear. Examine the area where the rotating parts of
the pump move against the stator support or pump
cover. Remove light scratches or marks from this area
by lightly sanding it with 400-grit sandpaper. If this
does not remove the scratches or discoloration,
machine the entire surface before reusing the pump.
Next, check the pump pocket for wear, see figure on the
right. You may also lightly sand this part of the pump to
remove faults. If sanding does not remove the flaws, you
must replace the pump body. When free of wear marks,
the pump body needs a new bushing and seal. Clean the entire pump and all parts to remove
varnish and sanding grit, which otherwise would soon destroy the pump if returned to service.
Vanes are held to the rotor by two vane rings (see
figure on the right); remove the rings to disassemble
and inspect the vane assembly. Vane rings are made
of a hard material that can crack or break easily:
handle and inspect them carefully. Replace the vanes
if they are worn where they make contact with the
vane rings. Inspect the rotor; the part that makes
contact with the pump body and the cover must be
smooth, with no scratches. Correct light scratches by
sanding with fine sandpaper. Inspect the oil pump
slide and seals. Like the vanes, the oil seal slide ring
can easily crack or break if handled carelessly.
Vane pumps sometimes have a pressure regulator
valve contained in the pump body. If so, disassemble, clean, and inspect. Also, be sure to remove
and clean any filter screens.
INSPECTION OF MULTIPLE-DISC CLUTCHES
Begin disassembling a clutch pack by removing the snapring that holds the discs in the housing.
See above figure of an exploded view of a (Ford C3) reverse-high clutch assembly. Remove the
snapring by holding up one end of it free from its groove with a small screwdriver.
Next, remove the clutch discs and inspect them as described in following sections.
Friction Disc Inspection

Wipe each friction disc with a dry, line-free cloth. Inspect for the following:
• Excessive wear
• Cracks in the lining material
• Charred, burned, or glazed lining surface
• Pitting, rough, or scoring
• Chips or particles embedded in the lining
• Scoring or burns on disc serrations
• Distortion
Friction discs tend to discolour in use, which is normal. However, if any friction disc
shows signs of one or more of the defects above, replace the entire set. Also, replace the set
of friction discs if they do not fit freely in the clutch hub serrations or if there is wear or
damage to their splines.
Steel Disc Inspection

Clean steel discs by wiping them with a dry, lint free cloth. Inspect discs for the following:
• Uneven heat discoloration
• Surface scuffing or scoring
• Drive lug damage
• Distortion
Steel discs that have a uniform pattern of discoloration may be reused as long as the
contact surface is smooth. Replace the entire set of discs if a rough surface is detected, or
there is uneven or spotty discoloration on any of the
discs. Replace steel discs if they do not fit freely into
the clutch drum serrations.
Clutch Piston Removal and Inspection
To remove the snapring holding the clutch piston in place, compress the piston return
springs, which is done with a compressor tool. The style of clutch drum will determine
which type of compressor tool to use. Compress the springs of an open hub drum using
either a shaft- or lever type compressor. With a shaft-type compressor, the threaded shaft
fits through the hub and the fingers of the compressor contact the clutch pis ton (figure on
the right). Tightening a nut onto the shaft draws the fingers of the tool down, compressing
the spring, and allowing removal of the snapring. A lever-type compressor uses leverage to
push down on the piston, allowing snapring removal.
Some drums attach to a shaft, so they cannot rest flat on a lever-type compressor, and the
hub is not open to allow the use of a shaft-type compressor. Use a press to compress the
clutch piston return springs and remove the snapring on this style drum. After removing the
snapring, release and remove the spring compressor, then remove and inspect the return
springs.
Return Spring Inspection

Clutches use one of two types of piston return
springs: a coil or Belleville. Coil springs should be
straight and provide proper pressure. Check for
broken, distorted, or collapsed springs. If one or more
of the springs requires replacement, discard them all
and install a complete set of new springs (figure on
the right). Belleville spring fingers should be free of
cracks and other signs of stress (lower figure on the
right).
Some coil springs are permanently attached to their
retaining collar and can be serviced only as a set.
When individual coil springs are used, be sure to note
their exact location. There will be vacant spring seats
in some applications. This allows the manufacturer to
use the same piston but vary the number and location
of springs to precisely match spring return rate to the
requirements of a particular vehicle. In these cases,
reinstall return springs in exactly the same vacancy
pattern.
Extreme heat or burning in the clutch can cause return
springs to take a heat set. Unless this heat set is
extreme, the condition is hard to see. When the clutch
discs show signs of excessive heat, replace the
springs as a routine preventive measure.
Clutch Piston Inspection

Next, remove the clutch piston from the hub. The drag of the piston seal can make it hard
to remove the piston from its bore. Should this be the case, apply low-pressure compressed
air through the hydraulic apply hole in the housing to force the piston from its bore. Do not
use high air pressure and be careful to avoid pinching your hand or dropping the piston as it
pops from its bore. Once the piston is removed check it for the following:
• Cracks or scoring in the piston bore
• Nicks, scores, burrs, or signs of wear on the piston
• Seal damage
• Fluid passage obstructions or restrictions
If the piston contains a check valve, make sure it is functional. Remove and discard seals,
using a small screwdriver. Be careful to avoid damaging the piston.
INSPECTION OF BRAKE BANDS
Bands cannot be cleaned with solvent. Clean each band by wiping with a dry, lint-free
cloth.
Inspect the band and its friction surface, paying particular attention to the ends. Bands wear
more at the ends because they apply there first. Check bands for the following:
• Distortion
• Cracking
• Excessive or uneven wear
• Burn marks, charring, or glazed areas
• Poor lining bond
• Flaking and pitting
• Chips or particles embedded in the lining
Do not force open thin flex-type bands any farther than their normal relaxed position. If they are
opened beyond that point, the friction material may crack. If the band uses apply struts, check
them for distortion. Replace any band that shows signs of any of the preceding defects. Soak
bands in fresh Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) for 15 to 30 minutes before installing them.
ADJUSTMENT OF BRAKE BANDS AND MEASURING PISTON STROKE
Adjustment Of Brake Bands

Late-model transmissions do not require
periodic band adjustment. Most early-model
automatic transmissions do require periodic
band adjustment. Band adjusting procedures
generally involve tightening an adjusting screw
to a specific torque, then backing it off an exact
number of turns (see figure on the right). An
accurate torque wrench is needed and may
require special sockets.
Measuring Piston Stroke

On all Ford transaxles and late-model trans-
missions, bands are adjusted by means of a selec-
tive servo pin (see figure on the right). Generally,
no adjustment is needed if the correct pin is
installed when assembling the transmission.
Occasionally an adjustment will be needed to remedy a poor shift quality complaint and it can be
done without removing the transaxle. However, it will require working in tight quarters, and
removing the unit and making the adjustment on the bench may seem easier.
INSPECTION OF GOVERNOR CONTROL SYSTEM
Whether mounted on a shaft or fitted into a case bore driven by a gear, a governor assembly
consists of a shaft, a spool valve or check balls, two weights, two springs, and various snaprings
and attaching parts. A governor has a lot of places for sludge and rubbish to accumulate and
hide. This build-up can restrict governor movement and cause irregular shift problems. Always
disassemble and thoroughly clean the governor. While it is apart, inspect for the following:
• Scoring or rust in the valve bore
• Scores, nicks, or rust on the spool valve
• Damaged or distorted mating surfaces
• Binding, sticking, or damaged weights
• Broken or distorted springs
• Cut, distorted, or loose seals
• Broken snaprings and damaged snapring grooves
• Plugged or restricted fluid passages in the case or output shaft
• Damaged or plugged governor screen
• Damaged gears
Individual governor pieces are generally not available, so replace the entire governor assembly if
there is any damage. In the case of a geardriven governor, replacement nylon gears are
sometimes available. Light scoring and varnish build-up can often be removed with 600-grit
crocus cloth.
INSPECTION OF VALVE BODY PARTS
Lay the control valve assembly on a clean work surface and begin removing the valves from
the valve body (see exploded views of a typical Ford C3 valve body assembly on the next
page). Withdraw the bushings, valves and springs and lay them out on a clean lint-free towel in
the EXACT order of removal. Keep them in the proper orientation to the valve body. Clean all
the bushings, valves and springs. Check the valves and bushings closely for scoring, cracks or
damage. Check the
springs for
collapsed or
distorted coils.
Finally check the
valve body bores
for scoring or
damage and begin
reassembly.
Exploded view of a
(Ford C3
Automatic
Transmission)
valve body
assembly.
1 Cutback pressure reduction valve 17 Switching valve (1st/2nd gear)
2 Spring retainer 18 2nd gear valve
3 Main pipe oil pressure regulator valve 19 Throttle pressure modulator
4 Valve spring 20 Valve spring
6 Main regulator boost valve 22 Switching valve (2nd/3rd gear)
7 Sleeve 23 Backout control valve (2nd/3rd gear)
8 Kickdown valve 24 Valve spring
9 Valve spring 25 1-2 shift accumulator valve
10 Spacer 26 Spacer
11 Manual selector slide valve 27 Valve spring
12 Pressure boost valve (1st/2nd lever position) 28 Throttle pressure boost valve
13 Valve spring 29 Coast down switching control valve (3rd/2nd gear)
15 Pressure boost valve (governor control) 31 Valve spring
16 Valve spring 32 Timing valve
Checkball location for the

control valve body
1 Intermediate servo release
puck
2 Torque demand check ball
3 Manual 1, manual 2 and
reverse check ball
4 High clutch and reverse
servo circuit check ball
5 TV coast boost check ball
6 Valve spring
7 Pressure relief throttle
valve
8 Valve spring
9 Governor pressure relief
valve
DUTY 3:
SERVICING
PLANETARY GEAR ASSEMBLY
Planetary Gearsets
Although the members of a planetary gearset do

not remove from the transmission as an assembly,
they must be considered as an assembly during inspection. Clean and dry all the planetary
gearset pieces to prepare for inspection. Do not allow the compressed air to spin the gears
in planetary sets, as this will damage the bearings. Inspect gear teeth and splines for signs
of damage and wear (figure 10-33). Look for scratches, cracks, rough or sharpened edges,
and unusual wear patterns. Replace the gear if any tooth or spline damage is found.
Sun gears often ride on a press fit bushing, which is a serviceable item. Check the bushing
for wear or scoring: if scoring is evident, check for damage to the shaft. Use an arbor press
to replace the bushing if it is damaged or worn. Also, look for distortion on any snaprings
and snapring grooves that locate the sun gear. Some gearsets use selective-fit snaprings.
The pinion carrier assembly is the gearset component
most likely to show signs of wear. Replace the carrier
assembly if there is obvious damage such as cracked,
loose, or broken carriers, pinions, pinion shafts, and
lockpins. Pinion gears must rotate freely on their
shafts without roughness or binding, but not have too
much gear-to-shaft clearance. Rock each gear back
and forth; they should not wobble on the shaft. Use a
feeler gauge to measure pinion gear endplay (figure
10-34). Specifications vary, so check the service
manual. Typical pinion endplay clearances range
from 0.24 to 0.60 mm. On some gearsets, pinion
endplay can be adjusted with thrust washers, but with
most the unit is replaced when there is too much
endplay or side play.
4.1 Disassembling planetary gear assembly

4.2 Inspecting sun gear
4.3 Inspecting front planetary gear
4.4 Inspecting planetary ring gear
4.5 Inspecting rear planetary gear
4.6 Inspecting first, second and reverse brake band visually
4.7 Reassembling planetary gear assembly
DUTY 4: SERVICING OVER DRIVE UNIT

5.1 Disassembling over drive unit
5.2 Inspecting over drive direct clutch
5.3 Inspecting overdrive sun gear visually
5.4 Inspecting over drive planetary gear
5.5 Inspecting over drive one way clutch
5.6 Inspecting overdrive ring gear
5.7 Reassembling overdrive unit
5.8 Reassembling the automatic transmission
5.9 Installing automatic transmission
DUTY 5: TROUBLE SHOOTING AND ADJUSTMENT OF AUTOMATIC

TRANSMISSION
6.1 Automatic transmission preliminary inspection
6.2 Preliminary engine inspection
6.3 Adjusting throttle cable
6.4 Adjusting transmission shift linkage
6.5 Stall testing automatic transmission
6.6 Road testing automatic transmission

Laboratory Guide Automatic Transmission

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Laboratory Guide Automatic Transmission

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Laboratory guide Automatic Transmission

DUTY 1: SERVICING TORQUE CONVERTER

Drive Stud or Lug Inspection

Converter Hub Inspection

Dynamic Bench Tests

Stator-to-Turbine Interference Test

Stator One-Way Clutch Test

Internal Endplay Check

Disassembly, Cleaning, and Inspection

Cleaning and Inspection

Assembly and Testing

Converter Leak Test

Cleaning without Solvent

DUTY 2: SERVICING CONTROL UNIT

Transmission Disassembly, Cleaning, and Inspection

Input Shaft Endplay

INSPECTION OF TRANSMISSION OIL PUMP

Gear and Rotor Pumps

INSPECTION OF MULTIPLE-DISC CLUTCHES

Friction Disc Inspection

Steel Disc Inspection

Clutch Piston Removal and Inspection

Return Spring Inspection

Clutch Piston Inspection

INSPECTION OF BRAKE BANDS

ADJUSTMENT OF BRAKE BANDS AND MEASURING PISTON STROKE

Adjustment Of Brake Bands

Measuring Piston Stroke

INSPECTION OF GOVERNOR CONTROL SYSTEM

INSPECTION OF VALVE BODY PARTS

Checkball location for the

Although the members of a planetary gearset do

4.1 Disassembling planetary gear assembly

DUTY 4: SERVICING OVER DRIVE UNIT

DUTY 5: TROUBLE SHOOTING AND ADJUSTMENT OF AUTOMATIC

You might also like