HYDROSATIVUM P

INCI: Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Derived from Pisum sativum or ‘pea’, a superfood rich in amino acids, HYDROSATIVUM P is a 100% natural,
moisture retentive biopolymer that exhibits powerful moisturization properties on the skin and hair.

With natural substantivity to a variety of hair types from different ethnicities, HYDROSATIVUM P binds moisture,
hydrating hair even at low humidities which increases hair plasticity to help prevent breakage. HYDROSATIVUM P
also immerses the skin with moisture to improve firmness and elasticity which promotes younger looking skin. In
addition to moisturization benefits, HYDROSATIVUM P has anti-irritancy properties ideal for skin and scalp care.

Benefits Applications
 Powerful moisturizing active for skin and hair  Moisturizing or anti-aging creams and lotions
 Hydrates hair even at low humidities  Moisturizing shampoos and conditioners
 Naturally substantive to hair  Nourishing leave-on treatments
 Improves skin firmness and elasticity
 Anti-irritancy properties
 100% natural
 Derived from pea protein

Cosmetic Proteins from Superfoods

Over 40 years ago, Croda was the first to bring cosmetic grade proteins to the industry and has been at the forefront
of biopolymer innovation ever since. Proteins adsorb readily onto the surface of skin and hair and are generally
hygroscopic, meaning they attract water molecules from the air to act as humectants. Hydrolyzed proteins such as
wheat and silk have been used to impart moisture and conditioning properties to the hair and skin for decades.

Ingredients derived from ‘superfood’ sources have become increasingly popular and the number of personal care
products claiming superfood connotations have more than doubled in the last few years (Source: GNPD, March
2014). HYDROSATIVUM P is a biopolymer derived from the superfood Pisum sativum or ‘pea’ which is popular for its
high protein content, unique assortment of phyto-nutrients and antioxidant properties.

In personal care, Pisum sativum provides a rich source of amino acids for hair and skin care. The amino acid profile of
HYDROSATIVUM P is shown in Figure 1. Glutamic acid and aspartic acid are primarily sought after because of their
ability to condition hair and skin by binding to water. Arginine is an extremely popular moisturizing and strengthening
amino acid used in hair care and is usually found in nut derivatives. Finally, lysine is known to promote healthy skin,
hair and scalp.

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Figure 1: Amino acid profile of HYDROSATIVUM P

Hair Care
Moisture Absorption
Increased hydration of the hair is a key benefit of hydrolyzed proteins. HYDROSATIVUM P is highly moisture
retentive even at low relative humidity. When incorporated into hair care products, HYDROSATIVUM P can increase
hair plasticity and reduce brittleness, helping to prevent breakage. The graph in Figure 2 illustrates a typical moisture
isotherm for HYDROSATIVUM P, demonstrating its ability to absorb moisture even at low relative humidities.

Figure 2: Moisture isotherm data for HYDROSATIVUM P

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Naturally Substantive to Hair
HYDROSATIVUM P exhibits powerful moisturization properties thanks to its ability to penetrate the hair and hydrate
from within. Substantivity of protein hydrolysates, such as HYDROSATIVUM P, can be measured by radiolabelling the
protein using radioactive isotopes. HYDROSATIVUM P was radiolabelled using 125Iodine, which is used to measure
the total substantivity of the product to hair. Four hair types covering different ethnicities were subjected to repeated
treatments with a simple shampoo and conditioner regime, both containing 0.4% active radiolabelled
HYDROSATIVUM P.
HYDROSATIVUM P was found to be naturally substantive to various hair types as demonstrated in Figure 3.
Substantivity curves typical of protein hydrolysates were observed for each hair type, with a plateau effect apparent
after a couple of treatments. Higher levels of substantivity were observed for the more damaged hair types,
particularly the relaxed Brazilian hair.

Figure 3: Radiolabelling data for HYDROSATIVUM P on different hair types

Skin Care
Skin Moisturization Study
HYDROSATIVUM P moisturizes the skin to improve skin firmness and elasticity which, in turn, reduces the visible
signs of aging. In an in-vivo Dermal Torque Meter (DTM) skin study, performed on the forearm of human skin with
four applications over a two day period, the performance of 1% active HYDROSATIVUM P in a basic emulsion was
compared to a basic emulsion without HYDROSATIVUM P (Table 1). Differences in the immediate recovery and
elastic recovery between test and control arms for defined test sites were averaged to produce a mean percentage
change. The HYDROSATIVUM P emulsion demonstrated significant improvements in the immediate and elastic
recovery of the skin compared to the control emulsion as shown in Figure 5.

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Product (INCI) Control % w/w Test %w/w
A
COSMOWAX™ J (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Steareth-20 (and) Steareth-10) 5.00 5.00
Mineral oil 5.00 5.00
CRODACOL™ CS90 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 2.00 2.00
B
Deionized water 87.00 82.05
C
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin2 1.00 1.00
HYDROSATIVUM P (Hydrolyzed Pea Protein) 0.00 4.95
Suppliers: 1: Croda 2: Euxyl® PE 9010 Schülke Inc
EUXYL is a registered trademark of Schülke and Mayr GmbH

Table 1: The control and test emulsions

The data collected by the DTM is in the form of a time versus angular displacement curve (Figure 4). When the torque
is applied an immediate deformation occurs which is known as the immediate extensibility, Ue. The value of Ue is
approximately equal to the angular rotation at a time of 50ms after the application of the torque. After 50ms a slower
deformation occurs which begins to plateau at a value known as the viscoelastic deformation, Uv. Upon removal of
the torque there is swift recovery of the skin towards its natural state and a sharp decrease in the angular rotation is
observed which corresponds to the immediate recovery, Ur, of the skin. It is recognized(ii) that the immediate recovery
is related to the age of the individual and that in general Ur decreases with age. The ratio Ur/Ue represents the ability
of the skin to recover from the deformation and is known as the elastic recovery.

Angle, Ø Ur

Ue

0 15 Time

Torque (mNm)

0 15 Time
Figure 4: Schematic representation of time vs. angular displacement for a typical skin sample during a DTM
measurement

Immediate recovery is a measure of the skin's firmness and elastic recovery is a measure of the skin’s ability to
recover from an induced deformation. Increases in these parameters are associated with younger looking skin and in
addition, an increase in skin elasticity has been linked to an increase in skin hydration (i, ii). Therefore, as demonstrated
in Figure 5, it can be concluded that inclusion of HYDROSATIVUM P at 1% active can hydrate the skin to prevent the
signs of aging, through significant improvement of immediate and elastic recovery.

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Figure 5: Inclusion of 1% active HYDROSATIVUM P significantly increases both the immediate and the elastic
recovery of skin compared to the control. *p<0.05, **p<0.01

Anti-Irritancy Studies

TEWL
HYDROSATIVUM P has been proven to mitigate the irritancy effects of 1% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) in water. In
order to demonstrate this excellent counter-irritancy effect, a human patch test study was carried out to measure
Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). Testing was carried out on the forearm of panelists, in a temperature and
humidity controlled environment.
The products tested were:
 Water (used as a control)
 1% SLS (w/w) in water
 1% SLS (w/w) + 0.5% active HYDROSATIVUM P in water
Basal TEWL readings were taken and then equal amounts of each product were applied to filter paper before being
applied to the skin and occluded for 24 hours. The patches were removed one hour prior to the TEWL readings being
taken again. All test sites were randomized.

Figure 6: TEWL results of human patch testing show counter-irritancy effects of HYDROSATIVUM P with SLS
**1 significance vs water p <0.01, **2 significance vs SLS p <0.01

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The results of the TEWL readings shown in Figure 6 clearly illustrate that SLS significantly disrupts the skin barrier,
leading to an increase in water loss through the skin. The addition of 0.5% active HYDROSATIVUM P to 1% SLS
significantly reduces this water loss.

Anti-Inflammation
In a second investigation, a human patch test study was carried out to measure skin inflammation. Testing was
carried out on the forearm of panelists, in a temperature and humidity controlled environment.
The products tested were:
 Water (used as a control)
 1% SLS (w/w) in water
 1% SLS (w/w) + 0.5% active HYDROSATIVUM P in water
Equal amounts of each product were applied to filter paper before being applied to the skin and occluded for 24
hours. The patches were removed one hour prior to the inflammation readings being taken again. All test sites were
randomized. Results of the inflammation readings shown in Figure 7 demonstrate that 1% SLS increases
inflammation compared to the water control. There is, however, no increase in inflammation when 0.5% active
HYDROSATIVUM P is added to 1% SLS.

Figure 7: Laser Doppler images show the results of human patch testing to demonstrate the counter-irritancy
effects of HYDROSATIVUM P with SLS

Formulating Guidelines
HYDROSATIVUM P is very easy to use, is compatible with anionic and cationic surfactants and immiscible with oils. It
is also soluble in low levels of alcohol (≤ 25%w/w ethanol). HYDROSATIVUM P should be incorporated into
formulations at temperatures below 40°C. Avoid heating at high temperatures for prolonged periods.

Shampoo
HYDROSATIVUM P is suitable for detergent systems.

Conditioner
HYDROSATIVUM P is compatible with a range of cationic surfactants such as; INCROQUAT™ CTC-30 (Water (and)
Cetrimonium Chloride), CRODAZOSOFT™ DBQ (Quaternium-91 (and) Cetrimonium Methosulphate (and) Cetearyl
Alcohol) and INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS-50 (Behentrimonium Methosulphate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene
Glycol). For an example of a guide formulation using INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS-50 see Scoopable Hair Soufflé
HP-386.

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Skin Cream
HYDROSATIVUM P is compatible with various emulsifiers, for example NATRAGEM™ EW (Glyceryl Stearate (and)
Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate) and ARLACEL™ 2121 (Sorbitan
Stearate (and) Sucrose Cocoate).

Aqueous Sprays
HYDROSATIVUM P tolerates a range of pH and concentrations and is therefore easily incorporated into aqueous
systems. Table 2, below, shows the solubility of 1% active HYDROSATIVUM P in selected solvents commonly used
in personal care systems.
Control Material % Usage in water Immediately After 24 Hours
Ethanol DEB 100 100 Cloudy Precipitate
Water / Ethanol 25/75 Cloudy Precipitate
Water / Ethanol 50/50 Slightly cloudy Precipitate
Water / Ethanol 75/25 Clear Clear
Water @ pH 4.0 100 Clear Clear
Water @ pH 7.0 100 Clear Clear
Water @ pH 10.0 100 Clear Clear
Glycerin 100 Clear Clear
Propylene Glycol 100 Cloudy Slightly Cloudy
SLES (30% activity) 30 Clear Clear
CRODASINIC LS30 (30% act.) 30 Clear Clear
ADINOL™ CT95 (95% act.) 10 Clear Clear
INCROQUAT CTC-30 (30% act.) 10 Clear Clear
Mineral Oil (25cp@25ºC) 100 Cloudy Immiscible
Seaton’s Sweet Almond Oil 100 Cloudy Immiscible
Dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid 200cs) 100 Translucent Immiscible
CRODAMOL™ CAP 100 Cloudy Immiscible

Table 2: Solubility of 1% active HYDROSATIVUM P in selected solvents

Typical Properties
PHYSICAL FORM Clear yellow-amber solution
ACTIVE LEVEL 20%
MOLECULAR WEIGHT 1500 Da
USE LEVELS Use levels: 1-5%

Table 3: Typical properties of HYDROSATIVUM P

References
(i) De Rigal J and Leveque J-L; Bioeng. Skin 1, 13-23 (1985)
(ii) Escoffier, De Rigal J, Rochefort A, Vasselet R, Leveque J-L and Agache P G; J. Invest. Dermatol., 503, 353-357 (1989)

Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No
representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a
particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any
trademarks identified herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2014 Croda Inc

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Scoopable Hair Soufflé HP-386

This conditioning soufflé treatment contains HYDROSATIVUM P to lavish the hair and scalp with moisture while
CRODASONE™ P offers rinse-off cuticle protection from styling practices such as blow-drying. The luxurious
scoopable soufflé texture is provided by INCROQUAT™ BEHENYL TMS-50, which delivers the velvety feel on
application. A range of fruity superfood extracts are included to feed your hair the nourishment it deserves. Apply this
treatment mask and leave for 2-5 minutes before rinsing, to truly moisturize your hair and scalp.
Ingredients %
Part A
CRODAMOL™ STS (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate) 3.00
CRODAMOL SFX (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Ethylhexanoate) 2.00
SEATONS™ REFINED ALPINE APPLE SEED OIL (Pyrus Malus (Apple) Seed Oil) 2.00
SEATONS CP POMEGRANATE SEED OIL (Punica Granatum Seed Oil) 1.00
Part B
Water To 100
INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS-50 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene 7.20
Glycol)
SP CRODACOL™ S95 MBAL (Stearyl Alcohol) 3.86
Part C
HYDROSATIVUM P (Hydrolyzed Pea Protein) 2.00
CRODASONE P (Hydrolyzed Pea Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol) 2.00
FRUITLIQUID™ BLUEBERRY PS (Water (and) Glycerin (and) Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract) 1.00
Vitamin E Acetate 0.50
Fragrance q.s.
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone2 0.10
Suppliers: 1. Croda/Seatons/Crodarom 2. Euxyl® K100*, Schülke and Mayr

pH:4.86; Visc: 11800 cP +/- 10% (Spindle 3, 10 rpm, 1 minute, ambient, Brookfield DV-I+)
Stability: 3 months at 5°C, 25°C, 40°C and 45°C. 1 month at -5°C/40°C

Procedure:
Separately combine Part A and Part B ingredients with stirring and heat to 75-80°C. Add Part A to Part B with stirring
until uniform. Continue stirring and allow to cool. Once below 35°C add Part C ingredients individually with stirring.

Reference: C10175

EUXYL is a registered trademark of Schülke & Mayr GmbH

*Please note, in the light of the scientific Opinion (SCCS/1238/09), the European Commission proposes to restrict the use of the
Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone mixture preservative to rinse-off products.

Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No
representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a
particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any
trademarks identified herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2014 Croda Inc

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