12/10/2020 Bulk fermentation, explained | King Arthur Baking

Bulk fermentation, explained

Building strength, volume, and avor

AU T H O R Maurizio Leo D AT E July 22, 2019

COMMENTS 54
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RECIPE
Naturally Leavened Sourdough Bread

Bulk fermentation (also called the first rise or primary fermentation) is one of the most important steps of yeast bread baking. It
begins right when mixing ends and lasts until the dough is divided and preshaped. The name signifies exactly what it is: the step when
the dough is fermenting in a large, single mass.

During this time, fermentation creates organic acids and carbon dioxide gasses, each of which plays an important part in dough
development. Organic acids are primarily what give the dough flavor and strength (acids help condition the gluten network) and
carbon dioxide gives the dough volume and lightness.

While our friendly yeast and bacteria are doing most of this work, the dough still benefits from a periodic check-in by the baker. We
help regulate dough temperature and strength through a series of folds, and these check-ins also give us an opportunity to assess how
the dough is progressing.

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Sourdough at the end of bulk fermentation, ready to be divided.

For a typical sourdough bread recipe, I let bulk fermentation play out at room temperature over 3 to 5 hours. But this time period is
ultimately dictated by the bread you're making, what the recorded desired dough temperature is, and the temperature at which you
keep the dough.

In this post, we'll examine a few things to look for in determining when to end bulk fermentation; but first, let's look at why we fold
bread dough during bulk fermentation.

Why stretch and fold?

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Folding helps add strength to bread dough through a very simple series of actions: stretch the dough out and over itself. This act of
stretching and folding, which takes just a few moments, helps develop the gluten network in the dough. Each fold has a significant
impact on dough strength.

Through folding, we're also helping to regulate dough temperature throughout the entire bulk mass. This ensures the dough's
temperature is relatively even throughout — no cool or warm spots at the top or bottom.

And finally, at each set, we have a chance to handle the dough and gain a firsthand assessment on how it's developing: is the dough
sluggish because it's cool in the kitchen? This means we might need to extend bulk fermentation. Is it strong enough for preshaping or
does it need another set of folds? By interacting with the dough in this way, we have an opportunity to answer these questions and
adjust course as necessary.

When should I stretch and fold?

This process works best when you perform a quick series of folds and then let the dough rest. In the left-hand image below, you can
see the dough bunched tightly in the center after performing a set of stretches and folds. In the right image, you can see it relaxed
after a 30-minute rest, ready for another set of folds.

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If you try to perform another set too soon, you'll find the dough is too tight. It'll be hard to stretch and may even tear. For most
doughs, I find spacing out each set by 30 minutes (with the first set happening 30 minutes after the beginning of bulk fermentation)
to be just right.

How to fold bread dough

There are many ways to fold bread dough, but my preference is to perform them directly in the bowl. First, get a small bowl filled with
water and place it next to your bulk container. Dip your hands in the water before folding to prevent excessive sticking.

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In the image above, see how it initially starts as a shaggy mass, but eventually rises significantly and becomes smooth, strong, and
bubbly?

At the end of bulk fermentation, I look for a dough that's risen significantly and is much smoother than when bulk started. If you tug
on the dough a little with a wet hand, you'll feel resistance and elasticity.

Additionally, look for liveliness. Gently shake the bowl and it'll jiggle, letting you know there's plenty of aeration in the dough. These
are all great signs that the dough has fermented sufficiently and is strong enough to be divided.

King Arthur's Naturally Leavened Sourdough Bread topped with rolled oats.

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Strong fermentation, sufficient dough strength, ending bulk fermentation at the right time, and a full proof – these are all steps
required for a wonderful loaf of bread. And as you develop a sense for how to execute on each of these, you'll taste the difference in
every bite.

For more information on all steps of the bread-baking process, including a different method for folding bread dough in bulk
fermentation, visit the King Arthur Flour Complete Guide to Sourdough Baking.

Tagged: sourdough, bread, folding, sourdough tips

Filed Under: Tips and Techniques

T H E AU T H O R

About Maurizio Leo

Maurizio is an engineer-turned-baker who bakes from his home kitchen in
Albuquerque, NM. He bakes, writes and photographs for his blog, The Perfect
Loaf, which focuses on naturally leavened sourdough bread. Maurizio's passion
for baking ensures his hands are in dough just about every day.

V I E W A L L P O S T S B Y M AU R I Z I O L E O

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CALL C H AT | E M A I L

Comments

SHIRLEY DEGEORGE
SEPTEMBER 29, 2020 AT 2:47PM

Forgive me if this is a stupid question. I've been struggling with Sourdough since March, I've even
killed off my best starter too! My question is: Exactly how do I "Bulk-Up my starter for a bake? " If I
stop taking Discard, how will I get enough starter to bake with? If I don't discard, what and when and
how do I increase my feed? I've gone through pounds & POUNDS of flours, W.Wheat, Rye, Bread
flour trying to work it all out! I've thrown out at least a gallon of starter, needed room in the fridge
for food, Lol! Things are getting desperate around here!

R E P LY

M O R G A N AT K I N G A R T H U R
OCTOBER 5, 2020 AT 1:06PM

We're sorry to hear that you've been having some trouble with starter, Shirley! To increase the
amount of starter you have on hand you can either feed the starter a greater amount of flour and
water on the last feeding before you bake or slowly increase the amount of starter you keep and the
amounts of flour and water you feed it over the course of a couple of days before you bake. If you
go with one large feeding either the night before or early the morning you plan to bake, just keep in
mind that the starter will take longer to ripen and "digest" that larger meal so you'll want to plan
accordingly so you end up with ripe starter when you need it. We hope this helps and if we can chat
in more detail about sourdough starter, please do feel welcome to give our Baker's Hotline folks a
call at 855-371-BAKE (2253)!

R E P LY

MARY
SEPTEMBER 25, 2020 AT 7:15PM

Love all my King Arthur Flours they give me the best results

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R E P LY

L AU R I E
SEPTEMBER 2, 2020 AT 10:22AM

If I do the bulk fermentation in the refrigerator, is there a timeframe I should wait before the first
shaping? Do I wait 2-3 hours for the dough to come to room temp and then begin shaping, or can I
shape right away?

R E P LY

M O R G A N AT K I N G A R T H U R
SEPTEMBER 2, 2020 AT 4:11PM

Hi there, Laurie! If you've done your bulk fermentation in the fridge you can go right to shaping, no
need to let the dough come to room temperature first. Happy baking!

R E P LY

ANA MARIA
JUNE 17, 2020 AT 2:40PM

Can you put the dough in the fridge after the bulk fermentation and shape it next day? I'm thinking
of how can I make more than 5 loafs at the same time. Forming the bread next day and doing the
bench rest before baking will damage the crumb? if this is fine, should I wait one hour or so before
baking?

R E P LY

ANNABELLE NICHOLSON
JUNE 18, 2020 AT 12:58PM

Hi Ana! Bread can usually take one long fermentation in the fridge. So this can either be the bulk
fermentation. Or, you can do the bulk fermentation at room temperature, shape the loaves, and
then let them slowly rise in the fridge overnight. They won't necessarily have to come to room
temperature or be out of the fridge for a specific amount of time before baking the next day, they
just have to be fully proofed before baking.

R E P LY

CHERRITY LEYSON
J U LY 3 0 , 2 0 2 0 A T 9 : 2 3 P M

I let my dough proof and then refrigerate in bannetons . I take it directly from the refrigerator to
the oven. In this way I can have several loaves ready, and bake them off a couple at a time without

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over proofing the ones waiting to go in the oven. the cool dough holds its shape well when flipped
out on my baking stone.

R E P LY

DENNIS SOPER
AUGUST 19, 2020 AT 2:29PM

Hi Anna,

Lately, I have been letting my dough rise to about 70-75% of where I want it to be, then put it in
the fridge, let it finish overnight, then shape and proof for another 24 hours or so in the fridge. It
seriously improves the flavor.

R E P LY

JOANNA
MAY 26, 2020 AT 2:52AM

What do you think could have gone wrong when after the last bulk fermentation fold, the dough
was too sticky and wet? I’m pretty sure I followed the recipe correctly. I couldn’t take it out of the
bowl without it deflating into the counter for the folding and to the proofing basket.

Thank you
Joanna

R E P LY

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A single stretch and fold performed with wet hands to prevent sticking.

You will perform the same up-and-over motion four times, turning the bowl after each fold. As shown above, use two wet hands and
grab the side of the dough farthest from you, then lift it up and over to the side nearest your body. Next, rotate your container 180°,
wet your hands again if necessary, and perform the same stretch and fold. Next, rotate your container 90°. Grab the side of the
dough farthest from you; once again stretch it up and over to the side of the container nearest your body. Rotate your bowl 180° and
perform the same fold one final time.

To finish the set, I like to gently pick the dough up in the center and let the ends fold under just a little. This helps keep the dough tidy
in the middle.

Watch this video to see the full stretch-and-fold process:

Stretch and Fold

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How many sets of folds are needed?

There's no single answer for how many sets your dough needs. If you hand-mix your dough, two to four sets should do it. Of course,
the type of flour and hydration in a recipe also play a big role in answering this question. Generally, the slacker the dough, the more
folds we'll need to sufficiently strengthen it.

After I perform a set of stretches and folds, I like to make a judgment call: was the dough hard to stretch out and fold over? If so, I
likely can omit future sets of folding and let the dough rest for the remainder of bulk fermentation. Was the dough still slack and
extensible? If so, I might do another set and reassess afterward.

Also, there are many doughs for which folding might not be necessary. For example, with a 100% rye bread, you can likely skip folding
because the gluten properties in rye don't strengthen the same way that wheat gluten does. Additionally, if your dough is very stiff
and low hydration — or if it was mixed and kneaded to full development before bulk fermentation — there's no need to impart
additional strength through folding.

When to end bulk fermentation?

Finding the exact point when to end bulk fermentation takes practice. With time, you'll learn to read the signs of sufficient
fermentation: dough strength, elasticity, smoothness, volume gain, and bubbly appearance.

But making this call can be difficult. Cutting bulk fermentation short might mean your dough won't be sufficiently fermented and
you'll head toward an under-proofed result. On the other hand, if you push bulk fermentation too far, your dough will be hard to
handle and on the verge of over-proofing. There's a balance to be found.

Upper left: dough at the beginning of bulk fermentation. Upper right: dough before rst stretch and fold. Lower left: dough before second stretch
and fold. Lower right: dough at the end of bulk fermentation.

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