#Sewsunsetpants: Sunset Knit Lounge Pants

Sunset knit lounge pants
Step by step sewing tutorial
SIZES EASY REF.

XS-XXL 3/10 1073 Knits
#sewsunsetpants
© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com

S1073 Sunset lounge pants
Tutorial
Sizing guide, inch
i
US size US0 US2 US4 US6 US8 US10 US12 US14 US16 US18 US20 US22
Sizing UK size 6 8 10 12 14 14/16 16 18 20 22 24 26
EU size 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60
General XXS XS S S M M L L XL XL XXL XXL
Clothing sizes may vary, so it is essential you pick the right size based on your Waist 23.6 25.2 26.8 28.3 29.9 31.5 33.1 34.6 37.0 39.4 41.7 44.1
measurements and sizing chart. Hips 33.9 35.4 37.0 38.6 40.2 40.9 42.5 44.1 46.5 48.8 52.0 53.5
If the pattern you're using is not custom made for you with your measurements,
please, refer to the following guide to choose the right size for you. Sizing guide, cm
US0 US2 US4 US6 US8 US10 US12 US14 US16 US18 US20 US22
Base measurement US size
UK size 6 8 10 12 14 14/16 16 18 20 22 24 26
• Basic fit: Fitted at the hips and loose through the leg, mid rise lounge pants, EU size 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60
finished with yoga waistband with optional drawstrings and wide elastic or General XXS XS S S M M L L XL XL XXL XXL
ruched waistband with drawstrings (regular or maternity option up to 35
Waist 60 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 94 100 106 112
weeks). Offered in full length that hits the floor and below the knee length.
Optional side pockets finished with bands. Hips 86 90 94 98 102 104 108 112 118 124 132 136
• For this pattern both for regular and maternity option please pick the size,
closest to your: hips measurement. Make sure to measure the widest part of
your hips. Do not take your tummy into account while measuring hips. Final
inseam measurements find on p.3
Final measurements
• If you're in between sizes: for slimmer fit or for stretcher fabrics (like rayon/
Lower waist (negative ease) - 10 cm / - 4 in
bamboo/modal spandex) pick the smaller size, make sure your fabric is at least
50% horizontal and 30% vertical stretch. For more relaxed fit choose the next Hips circumference Hips (negative ease) - 8 cm / - 3 1/4 in
size. INSEAM INFORMATION ON P.3
PRINTING GUIDE ON P.11
Fitting
If your waist measure(s) as a smaller or a bigger size - grade it to your
measurement. Grading tutorial find on page 13.
Height
Height PETITE 152-160 cm /5’1” - 5’3”
This garment is designed for 3 heights: 152-160 cm /5’1” - 5’3” (PETITE), REG 162-170 cm / 5’4” - 5’6”  
TALL 170-178 cm / 5’7" - 5’9"
162-170 cm / 5’4” - 5’6” (REGULAR) and 170-178 cm / 5’7” - 5’9”(TALL) . If your
height is different, please get a custom sized pattern.
© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 2

Tutorial
FINAL MEASUREMENTS, IN
PETITE 152-160 cm /5’1” - 5’3”
Inseam full length 28.9 29.1 29.2 29.3 29.6 29.6 29.6 29.7 29.7 29.8 29.8 29.8
Inseam cropped length 18 18 18 18.1 18.2 18.2 18.1 18.1 18.1 18 17.9 17.8
Calf circumference 16.9 17.3 17.7 18.1 18.5 18.8 19.1 19.5 20.1 20.7 21.4 21.9
REG 162-170 cm / 5’4” - 5’6”

Inseam cropped length 19.1 19.1 19.1 19.1 19.3 19.3 19.2 19.2 19.1 19 19 18.9
Calf circumference 16.9 17.3 17.7 18.1 18.5 18.8 19.1 19.5 20.1 20.7 21.4 21.9
TALL 170-178 cm / 5’7" - 5’9"

Inseam full length 33.2 33.3 33.5 33.6 33.9 34 33.9 34.1 34.1 34.1 34.1 34.2
Inseam Full
Inseam cropped length 21.2 21.2 21.2 21.3 21.5 21.5 21.3 21.4 21.3 21.2 21.1 21.1 Calf
length Inseam
Calf circumference 16.9 17.3 17.7 18.1 18.5 18.7 19.1 19.4 20 20.6 21.3 21.8 cropped
length
FINAL MEASUREMENTS, CM
PETITE 152-160 cm /5’1” - 5’3”
Inseam cropped length 45.7 45.8 45.8 45.9 46.3 46.3 46 46.1 45.9 45.7 45.5 45.2
Calf circumference 43 44 45 46.1 47.1 47.7 48.5 49.5 51 52.5 54.4 55.6
REG 162-170 cm / 5’4” - 5’6” Checking the inseam

1. Measure your inseam length from the crotch to
the floor
Inseam full length 77.5 77.9 78.2 78.5 79.3 79.4 79.2 79.5 79.6 79.7 79.7 79.8 2. Compare to the Inseam with the leg band chart
Inseam cropped length 48.4 48.5 48.5 48.6 49 49 48.7 48.8 48.6 48.3 48.2 47.9 according to your height and size
3. If the difference is less than 1.5 cm / 5/8 in
Calf circumference 43 44 45 46.1 47.1 47.7 48.5 49.5 51 52.5 54.4 55.6
proceed with your size.
4. Adjust the length if needed using the below the
TALL 170-178 cm / 5’7" - 5’9" knee cut line as a Shortening/Lengthening guide.
Inseam full length 84.3 84.7 85 85.4 86.1 86.3 86.1 86.5 86.5 86.6 86.7 86.8
Inseam cropped length 53.8 53.9 53.9 54 54.5 54.5 54.2 54.3 54.1 53.9 53.7 53.5
Calf circumference 43 44 45 46 47 47.5 48.4 49.3 50.8 52.3 54.1 55.3

Tutorial
© Sinclair Patterns Variations
© Sinclair Patterns
Full length pants with pockets and yoga Regular rise cut with yoga waistband, pockets and Regular rise cut with regular ruched waistband,
Maternity rise cut with ruched waistband and below
waistband drawstrings. Full length. pockets and drawstrings. Full length.
the knee length.
US8 REG Size: Hip 39” - US06 - REGULAR Size: Hip 40” - US08 - TALL
Pockets are not available in this version.
Fabric: polka dot Light weight french terry Fabric: French Terry Fabric: French Terry
US8 REG
(poly+rayon), Waistband, pockets, drawstrings - Photo credit: Katie Photo credit: Amanda
Fabric: Poly rayon spandex, Waistband - Double brushed
grey Light weight french terry (poly+rayon)
poly

Tutorial
Variations
Regular rise cut with yoga waistband, pockets and Regular rise cut with yoga waistband, no pockets. Regular rise cut with yoga waistband, no pockets.
Regular rise cut with yoga waistband, no pockets.
drawstrings. Full length. Full length. Full length. Dressier look achieved by using more
Full length.
Size: Hip 37.5” - US6 - REGULAR Size: Hip 33” - US02 - REGULAR structured fabric like Ponte.
Size: Hip 37.5” - US6 - TALL
Fabric: stretch fleece Fabric: floral scuba Size: Hip 39” - US6 - REGULAR
Fabric: French terry, waistband - cotton Lycra
Photo credit: Sonia Photo credit: Karen Fabric: Ponte
Photo credit: Tammie
Photo credit: Becky

Tutorial
Variations
Regular rise cut with yoga waistband. No pockets Full Regular rise cut with yoga waistband and Maternity rise cut with ruched waistband and below Maternity rise cut with ruched waistband and full
length. pockets. Full length. the knee length. length.
Size: Hip 50” - Sized down to US18 - REGULAR Size: Hip 45” - US18 - REGULAR Pockets are not available in this version. Pockets are not available in this version.
Fabric: Cotton Lycra Fabric: French terry, waistband - double Size: Hip 39.8” - US08 - REGULAR Size: Hip 42.5” - US12 REG, fundal height 42 cm
Photo credit: Laura (Kitty Makes It) brushed poly Fabric: Cotton lycra Fabric: Double brushed poly
Photo credit: Diana Photo credit: Tai Photo credit: Amelia

Tutorial
i Fabric choice and styling options i Supplies and notions
• For these pants choose light to medium weight knit fabric with good drape Main fabric
and with at least 30-50% horizontal and 10-20% vertical stretch. The first Light to medium weight knit fabric with at least 30-50% stretch.
choice for the pants will be: cotton/rayon French Terry, medium weight 50/60" / 140-160 cm US0-US10 1 m-1.3 m / 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 yards (FULL LENGTH)
cotton Spandex/Lycra/Elastan, medium weight interlock. The second choice US12-US22 1.4 m-1.7 m / 1 1/2- 1 3/4 yards (FULL LENGTH)
will be: soft double knits, stable light weight sweater knits, single brushed poly. US0-US10 0.8 m - 0.9 m / 3/4-1 yard (BELOW THE KNEE LENGTH)
US12-US22 0.9 m-1.1 m / 1 - 1 1/4 yard (BELOW THE KNEE LENGTH)
• For dressier look choose Ponte, double knits, interlock, scuba or liverlpool.
• For the Pocket lining choose stable, low stretch, light weight knits like cotton Ribbing/Main Fabric (pocket bands, waistband)*
jersey or interlock. Medium weight knit fabric with at least 30-50% stretch and good recovery.
50/60" / 140-160 cm 0.6 m / 3/4 yard Yoga waistband
• For the pocket band/waistband use either the same fabric as the pants or
50/60" / 140-160 cm 0.9 m / 1 yard Ruched waistband (reg)
light/medium weight fabric with excellent recovery (should contain Lycra/ 50/60" / 140-160 cm 1.1 m / 1 1/4 yard Ruched waistband (maternity)
Elastan/Spandex) like ribbing, cotton Lycra (CL), double/single brushed poly
* The fabric requirements are split into categories. You can make the pants completely
(DPB/SPB). To check the fabric recovery rate - stretch it and observe if it using only Main fabric.
bounces back and restores to its previous measurements when released.
Other notions
• For the the self-made drawstrings make preference towards stretchier 1. A strip of 30 cm / 1/3 knit fusible interfacing
fabrics. 2. 2 grommets max 8.5-11.5 mm / 1/8-1/4 in (and tools) or buttonhole foot for your sewing
• Comfortable and flattering lounge pants. machine
3. Your waist measurements x 1.3 length drawstrings (pre made or self made). For the ruched
waistband - double the length.
The samples in the picture are US8 / REG 4. (optional) 2.5-4 cm / 1 - 1 5/8 in width soft elastic band equal your waist measurement +10 cm /
Fabric and supplies requirements are also listed on the MEMO card. MEMO card is 4 in. This elastic is used as a waistband stabilizer so choose soft elastic, for example lingerie or
located next to the pattern file (same folder). Use MEMO card as a reference in braided elastic.
your patterns binder. 5. Polyester / Cotton threads
6. (optional) Matching overlocker threads, preferably wooly nylon stretch overlocking thread
For your Sewing machine you’ll need

1. Jersey needle 70/10 or 80/12
This needle prevents snags on knit fabrics when stitching
2. Twin jersey/stretch needle 3–4/70-80 (optional)
This needle is required if you want to have decorative twin stitch
on your neckline/armholes bindings and on the bottom hem.
Works only with sewing machines that have zig zag stitch.

Tutorial
i Techniques for sewing knits i Sewing knits with a serger/overlocker
Knits are very exciting to make as you can be very creative. Seams
Depending on your equipment and taste, you can choose what kind of finish you
Seams with a serger using 4-
want to use for stitching seams, bindings, bands and hems.
thread overlock. Serge
Modern sewing machines make neat and professional stitching for knits without
using a serger and cover stitch machine. trimming away any seam
If you have both a serger and a sewing machine you may combine sewing allowance in excess of 7 mm
techniques listed below to your liking.
(1/4 inch)
Hems
Knits Overlock edges, then fold and

finish hems using sewing
machine.
How to test if the knit fabric is two way stretch:

It stretches in lengthwise and crosswise directions. Usually two way stretch fabric has spandex.
Topstitching
How to test knit fabrics stretch %:
25% stretch means that 10 cm / 4 inches of fabric easily stretches to 12.5 cm / 5 inches
and recovers well after stretching.
Topstitching is usually made using a sewing machine.
When stretching the fabric make sure it looks the way you expect it to look in a garment.
This is especially important for fitted styles, for example a tank top, fitted dress or
leggings/yoga pants.

Tutorial
i SEAMS and OVERCASTING

Sewing knits with a sewing machine
i TOPSTITCHING
Topstitching is widely used for neckline and armhole bindings. It can
Always test seams on a sample piece of fabric !
be done using Short Zigzag stitch, Special stretch stitch (Seams
section) or twin needle stitch.
Short Zig zag Special stretch stitch
Short zig zag or stretch stitch
Adjust your sewing machine for Your sewing machine may have
a zigzag with stitch width set at a special stretch stitch that
0.5 mm and stitch length 1.5-2 looks like a very narrow zigzag
mm. stitch. That’s the best option for
seams.
Twin needle stitch

1. Replace your regular needle with a twin needle.
2. Make sure that the needle doesn't hit the presser foot or the plate.
3. Thread the needles with 2 bobbins. At this step, please refer to your sewing
machine user’s manual on how to thread a twin needle.
Overcasting 4. Set up straight stitch 2.5-3 mm (15-25 spi), place the sample knit fabric under
the presser foot and start stitching. Always make sure to secure the stitch with
Use wide zigzag for Some machines have overlock/ backstitch and to tie the ends of the threads in a knot.
overcasting edges together. serger imitation stitch. Test the 5. Test the elasticity of the seam - stretch the fabric and check if the seam
stitch for elasticity using a sample stretches and threads are not breaking. Otherwise it means that the seam
and use it for overcasting knits if
doesn’t have enough elasticity. Decrease your upper bobbin tension to get
appropriate. more elasticity.

Tutorial
i HEMMING
i TIPS AND HINTS
Always test seams on a sample piece of fabric !
Single hem Stabilizing knits when sewing

If the fabric’s edge is stable enough you can turn the hem under Place a strip of a tissue paper under the fabric, then place it both together under
only once. Alternatively before hemming you can overcast the the presser foot and stitch. That will help to enhance the sewing outcome and
edge with overlock using a serger or zigzag with a sewing eliminate excessive stretching while sewing.
machine. Tear away the strip after the seam is finished.
You can use special stabilizers for sewing, such as: fusible elastic interfacing,
Double hem fabric stay spray, knit stay tape and others.
You can choose to turn the hem under twice to hide the raw edge of
the fabric when hemming a garment. This technique gives a nice and
neat look and suitable for thin knits. Tissue
paper
Finishing the hem
For finishing the hem you can choose a zigzag, special stretch stitch
or twin needle stitch.
Decrease the presser foot pressure to the min setting

The presser foot pressure can be usually set to one of 3-4 levels.The larger the
setting, the stronger the pressure. Use setting 1 or 2 for knit fabrics.
Use appropriate needles for the weight of the fabric

For thinner knits and knits use 70/10, for mid weight knits 80/12, for heavy
weight 90/14 jersey needles.
Use walking foot on your machine

If you have a walking foot, use it to get flat seams and hems, instead of wavy ones.
Press
Press your seams using steam iron. It might help to bring back stretched
fabric to its original state.

Tutorial
Multisized layered version (contains all sizes US0-US22, grouped by height in separate files)
i Printing the pattern
PRINTING GUIDE
Print the pages according to your selected version of the pants

(A4/ US Letter format):
All the main parts P1 - P25 
Yoga waistband, pockets, drawstrings + P20-P30 
Ruched waistband (reg or maternity) + P25-P40
This pattern comes in 2 different formats:
A4/Letter multisized layered version (contains all sizes US0-US22). Each height
option is grouped in a separate file. Designed for European paper standard (A4) and
American paper standard (Letter).
A0/Copyshop multisized layered version (contains all sizes US0-US22). Each height
Turn on/off pdf layers in the Acrobat Reader to print only required sizes.
option is grouped in a separate file. Designed for European paper standard (A0) and
American paper paper standard (Copyshop/Super A0). Click on the
Layers
What is a layered pattern? 
icon to show
This pattern has separate layers for each size, and you can select which sizes to print. the layers
How to select sizes/layers to print?
1. Open the pattern file with a required height option (PETITE(SHORT)/REG/TALL) in

Acrobat Reader.
2. Click on the layers icon on the left vertical toolbar or select from the menu View >>
Show/Hide >>Navigation panes>>Layers.
3. Deselect or select sizes that you want to print. Follow the instructions on the next
page on how to print and tape the pattern together.
Turn on/off
sizes to print

Tutorial
1 2
i Print, tape and cut the pattern
1. Open the pattern file in Adobe Acrobat reader (default pdf opener) and
click print and select on the print menu ‘Actual size’. Print Page 1 and
check the scaling on the page with a ruler according to the instructions
given above the scale.
2. If the scaling is right print rest of the sheets
3. Make a layout of sheets on a big surface according to the pictogram on 4

the each sheet
4. Cut left and top edges of the sheets according to the blue dashed line
5. Overlap and glue sheets together using a glue stick or invisible tape
trying to match dots perfectly. I recommend to glue it in the page
number order, row by row (1, 2, 3 etc.).
6. Adjust pattern to your measurements before cutting out the pattern

parts if needed.
5 6
TIP: using a glue stick or a glue pen to glue the sheets together
significantly reduces the time spent on the pattern assembly.

Tutorial
Grading waist (US12) to hips (US10)
i Grading the pattern (waist)

Use
waistband
If according to the measurement guide and sizing recommendations US12
you need to grade your pattern at the waist please follow the guide
below. Make sure that you measure your natural waist that is located
right below your last rib and your hips - at the widest part.
To grade your waist / hips

1. At least 2 sizes should be printed (selected as visible layers).
2. Find the closest to your hips measurement size in the measurements
guide (page 2).
3. Find the corresponding pattern lines.
4. Draw a new crotch line and a side seam at the hip level according to
the recommendations on the right.
Grading waist (US10) to hips (US14)
Use
waistband
US10
Example #1 Example #2
According to the sizing chart : According to the sizing chart :
   
Waist US12  Waist US10 
Hips US10 (base size) Hips US14 (base size)
The pattern needs to be graded from The pattern needs to be graded from
the waist to the hips from US12 to the waist to the hips from US10 to
US10. US14.

Tutorial
Adjusting the fit

Pants normally require some adjustments, depending on your body type. I highly recommend to make a simple muslin first - without pockets with a yoga waistband to check the fit and
make some adjustments achieve your perfect fit.
Front crotch adjustment (round pubis) Flat seat adjustment
FRONT BACK
Front crotch adjustment (flat pubis) Low seat adjustment
BACK
FRONT

Tutorial
Adjusting the fit
Full inner thigh/seat adjustment
BACK FRONT
Thin inner thigh adjustment
BACK FRONT

Tutorial
i Hem and seam allowances i Pattern definitions
Solid/Dashed line - Cut lines

Faint lines - Stitch lines
The pattern already has all seam allowances needed.

The seam allowance information is stated on each
Grainline - shows a longwise direction of a fabric
part of the pattern unless otherwise stated right on
the curve.
Pay attention to the armhole, neckline, lining seam Notch - a mark to match pattern pieces together.
allowances - they are usually less than the standard Transfer them onto fabric before sewing.
ones.
Marking dot - used for a reference, for example as a
SEAM: 0.7 cm- 1/4 in  pocket opening guide. Transfer them onto fabric
before sewing.
HEM: 2.5 cm - 1 in
Pattern part number and name - used as a reference
in the tutorial

Tutorial
i Fabric preparation i Cut the fabric
Prepare your fabric: pre wash and steam iron it. 1. Fold and place the fabric on the flat surface,
place the pattern on top of it following the grain
It’s essential to prepare all fabric before sewing lines, nap and print direction. Pin the pattern to
especially fabrics made of natural fibers. Cotton, the fabric, or alternatively, use weights to keep
Linen, Rayon and Silk can have a dramatic shrinkage the paper pattern in the place
after washing or steaming. 2. If you are using printed fabric, match the print
I usually wash all fabrics at 40-50 C degrees in my on underarm, waist or bottom hem lines
washing machine, tumble dry and steam iron it after. 3. Using rotary cutter (preferable for knit fabrics)
or scissors, cut the fabric
When washing I put a small piece of white cotton to 4. Transfer all the markings from the pattern to the
make sure that the fabric’s color is not running. fabric
Sometimes it happens! Add some salt and soak the

fabric to stop the color running. (see next page for Cutting list)

Tutorial
REGULAR VERSION MATERNITY VERSION

(YOGA OR RUCHED WAISTBAND) (RUCHED WAISTBAND)
MAIN FABRIC
i
MAIN FABRIC Waistband, pocket band, drawstrings:
Cutting list 50/60" / 140-160 cm MAIN FABRIC / RIBBING
50/60" / 140-160 cm
50/60" / 140-160 cm
1 Yoga wasitband with pockets + 1

Reg rise drawstrings Low rise /
REGULAR VERSION: Maternity rise
Back (1) - Cut 2 mirrored (full or below the knee length) 6 3 6 5
FOLD
FOLD
FOLD
Front (2) - Cut 2 mirrored (full or below the knee length) 6
Pocket facing (4) - Cut 2 mirrored

Regular ruched waistband with pockets
Pocket band (5) - Cut 2 2 2
Reg rise
FOLD
(optional) Drawstrings (6) - Cut 1 on FOLD (yoga band) or Cut 2 on Fold Low rise /
FOLD
6 7 6 Maternity rise
(ruched waistband) 4
FOLD
CHOOSE your waistband:
6
6 5
Waistband, drawstrings:
Yoga waistband (3) - Cut 1 on FOLD or (DRAWSTRINGS OPTION)
MAIN FABRIC / RIBBING
INTERFACING
Ruched waistband (7) - Cut 1 on DOUBLE FOLD (regular version) 50/60" / 140-160 cm
SQUARE
FOLD
2.5x2.5cm Maternity ruched waistband
1”x1”
FOLD
Additional:
FOLD
Cut 2 - 2.5x2.5 cm / 1”x1” squares out of knit fusible interfacing for reinforcing 77
drawstring openings for yoga waistband/ ruched waistband
MATERNITY VERSION:
Back (1) - Cut 2 mirrored (full or below the knee length)
FOLD
6
6
Front (2) - Cut 2 mirrored (full or below the knee length)

Drawstrings (6) - Cut 2 on Fold
Ruched waistband (7) - Cut 1 on DOUBLE FOLD (maternity version)
Marking the pattern parts

* Mark all the notches on all parts.
* Mark center of the waistband lengthwise, transfer drawstrings openings markings
* If you have a fabric without definite right and wrong sides, mark your wrong side
with a tailor’s chalk.

Tutorial
(Pockets version)
1 Set in pockets (Part 1)
1. Skip this step if you decided to omit the pockets. Proceed to step 3.
2. Place the Front (2) parts right side up. On top of it place Pocket band fold in half lengthwise with 7 mm seam
the wrong sides together (5), Match band’s notch with a notch at the pocket opening. Stretch and
1/4 inch
pin the band at the ends to meet the waistline and the side seam. The bands are a little bit shorter
than the pocket openings to make sure it lays flat when finished.
3. Stitch the band to the pocket opening at 7 mm / 1/4 inch seam allowance / using: zigzag or stretch
seam (sewing machine) or 4-threads overlock seam (serger). If using a sewing machine overcast
edges together, using zigzag or overlock imitation stitch.
4. Turn the band to the wrong side of the pocket opening and press well.
5. (optional) Topstitch through the front and the seam at 4-5 mm / 1/8-1/6 in with stretch or zigzag
stitch using your sewing machine. I do not recommend to use straight stitch for this step as your
pocket opening needs to be stretchy for a comfort of use.
Step 1-3
FRONT
FRONT Right side
Right side
Pocket band folded

in half lengthwise
with the wrong
sides together and
aligned with the Topstitching is optional,
pocket opening but recommended Topstitched with
short zig zag
Step 1-2 Step 1-5

Tutorial
(Pockets version)
2 Set in pockets (Part 2)
1. Place the Front wrong side up. On top of the Front(2) place Pocket facing (4) wrong side up and
and match at the waistline and the side seam.
2. Make sure all the layers are aligned properly and pin. Pin at the top, side and and curved part of the Pocket is attached
pocket. to the Front using a
medium width zig
3. Stitch the pocket to the Front through the pocket and the Front at 1-2 mm / 1/16-1/12 inch seam
zag
allowance. To achieve a nice decorative look of the pocket from the right side of fabric you can
use: with your sewing machine - wide zigzag or straight stitch with twin needle, with your
overlocker - flat seam (please refer to the user’s manual), with your coverstitch machine - straight
or reversed flat stitch. Press well after topstitching to eliminate puckering.
4. Pin and stitch through the pockets and the Front (2) parts at the waistline and side seam to secure
pocket positioning at 4-5 mm / 1/8-1/6 in using a stretch or zigzag stitch using your sewing
machine. Make sure that the pocket openings lay flat, are not wavy, and are not sticking out.
Stretch them if needed to make them lay flat.
Step 4-3
1-2 mm /
1/16-1/12 in
Secure pockets at
the side seam and
waistline through
Pocket facing all layers
wrong side up
Front wrong
side up
Step 2-1 Step 2-2 Step 4-4

Tutorial
3 Finish side seams
1. With the right sides together, match raw edges, notches,

inner, and outer side seams of the Front (2) and Back (1)
parts.
Front
2. Stitch the side seams at 7 mm / 1/4 inch seam allowance
using: zigzag or stretch seam (sewing machine) or 4- Back
threads overlock seam (serger). If using a sewing

machine, overcast edges together, using zigzag or
Step 3-1
overlock imitation stitch.
3. Press the seams well.
7 mm seam
1/4 inch
Step 3-2

Tutorial
4 Finish crotch seam
1. Turn one of the stitched legs (from the previous step) to the right side.
Pull it through the other leg to match the the Legs at the crotch seam
with the right sides together.
7 mm seam
2. Stitch the crotch seam at 7 mm / 1/4 inch seam allowance / using: zigzag
1/4 inch
or stretch seam (sewing machine) or 4-threads overlock seam (serger). If
using a sewing machine, overcast edges together using zigzag or
overlock imitation stitch.
3. Press the seams well.
Step 4-2
Step 4-1 Step 4-3

Tutorial
(Yoga waistband)
5 Prepare waistband (Part 1)
1. If you are using grommets or buttonholes on the Waistband stabilize the area where it is going to be
located. Transfer dot markings from the pattern or choose your own location. Place a strip of the
fusible interfacing on the top of the waistband, from the wrong side of fabric, cover the fabric with a
cheesecloth / organza cloth and press the iron to the fabric.
2. (buttonhole option) Make a buttonhole at the drawstring opening location following your sewing
machine instructions on making buttonholes.
3. (grommets option) Using small scissors cut out a small hole just to push a grommet through it. Place
the grommet inside the hole and press, using special pliers or tools.
4. (optional) Cut elastic band equal to the Waistband (3) length. Elastic band is used to stabilize
waistband of the pants and keep them in place. We will use a technique that is used in sewing lingerie
to achieve a comfortable fit. Pin and stitch elastic band to the wrong side of the Waistband (3) at the
long side, opposite to the side were we installed grommets/ made buttonholes, at 0.2-0.7mm from the
edge using zig zag stitch with 4-5 mm width and 1.5-1.8 mm length. Do not stretch the elastic while
sewing. Step 5-3, 5-4 Install grommets or make buttonholes
Waistband
wrong side up
Step 5-2 Step 5-4

Tutorial
(Yoga waistband)
1. With the right sides together, join the short ends of the
waistband and stitch with a 7 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance,
using zigzag or stretch seam (sewing machine). Press the seam
open.
2. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise wrong sides together,
meeting raw edges and press well to form the crisp folded edge.
The waistband is now ready to be attached to the waistline.
Step 6-2
7 mm seam
1/4 inch
Step 6-1 The waistband is ready to be attached to the waistline

Tutorial
(Yoga waistband)
7 Attach waistband
1. Match the waistband seam with right side seam and pin. Match notches and
pin the rest of the waistband to the waistline. Check location of the
drawstring openings - they should match the center front crotch seam.
2. Stitch the waistband to the waistline at 7 mm / 1/4 inch seam allowance using:
zigzag or stretch seam (sewing machine) or 4-threads overlock seam (serger). 7 mm seam
If using a sewing machine, overcast edges together, using zigzag or overlock 1/4 inch
imitation stitch. While stitching the waistband to the pant the elastic, that we
attached in the previous step will be caught in the waistband seam, but should
not be cut with a serger blade.
3. Press the waistband seam well to the bottom hem.

Step 7-2
Match waistband
seam with the
right side seam,
Step 7-1 Step 7-3

Tutorial
(Yoga waistband)
8 (optional) Finish drawstrings
1. You can skip this step if you chose to use pre-made drawstrings or use lace, cord, trim or
tape as drawstrings or not using drawstrings at all.
2. Option #1: If your fabric curls at the sides and doesn’t fray stretch the Drawstrings (6)
until they curl inside and take a shape of spaghetti. Adjust the length of the spaghetti
straps to the recommended length according to the Drawstring (6) part or to any other Step 8-4 Turn the drawstrings to the right side
length of your liking.
3. Option #2: Fold the drawstrings in half lengthwise wrong sides together, meeting raw
edges and stitch using a serger or zigzag or stretch seam at 7 mm / 1/4 in.
4. Using a safety pin or bodkin turn the drawstrings to the right side and stretch them. Adjust
the final length (you may need to cut them to have the length of the Drawstring (6)
pattern part).
5. Thread the drawstring through the drawstring openings.
7 mm seam
1/4 inch Step 8-4 Finished drawstrings
Step 8-3 Step 8-5

Tutorial
Fold approx 4 cm /
(Ruched waistband - regular and maternity) 1 5/8 in between

marking lines to
create a 7 mm /
1/4 in hem
1. Ruched waistband is offered in regular and maternity version (up to 35 weeks with an
average fundal height up to 35 cm / 13 3/4 in) and next steps work for both options.
For maternity version: I highly recommend to make a muslin of the waistband first to make
sure it is comfortable enough. Make sure to use light weight, soft and extra stretchy fabric.
2. Fold the waistband in half widthwise with the right sides out to meed the curvy edges.
Transfer casing markings to the waistband (including the dot).
3. At the curvy edge, fold one layer of the fabric between markings to form a small hem
at 7 mm / 1/4 in and stitch with your sewing machine using a straight stitch or a short This part will be
zigzag. the casing
opening
4. Pin the waistbands through layers to make sure it doesn’t move when stitching casings.
5. Form the casings by stitching through the waistband at the markings. Use straight
stitch or short zigzag. Reinforce the seams at the beginning and end thoroughly.
Transfer markings
for the casings t
Reinforce the
stitch several
times at the dot
marking
Stitch the casings

using a straight
Waistband Folded stitch or a short
widthwise zigzag.
Right side out
Step 9-2 Step 5-4

Tutorial
(Ruched waistband - regular and maternity)

1. Option #1: If your fabric curls at the sides and doesn’t fray stretch the Drawstrings (6)
until they curl inside and take a shape of spaghetti. Adjust the length of the spaghetti
straps to the recommended length according to the Drawstring (6) part or to any other
length of your liking.
2. Option #2: Fold the drawstrings in half lengthwise wrong sides together, meeting raw
edges and stitch using a serger or zigzag or stretch seam.
3. Using a safety pin or bodkin turn the drawstrings to the right side and stretch them. Adjust
the final length (you may need to cut them to have the length of the Drawstring (6)
pattern part).
4. Thread the drawstring through the drawstring openings as it is shown in the picture. It’s
quite a tricky to thread the drawstrings this way, just do it slowly pushing it through.
Step 10-3 Turn the drawstrings to the right side
7 mm seam
1/4 inch
Step 10–2 Step 10-4

Tutorial
Then flip
(Ruched waistband - regular and maternity) and pin

Fold the
these sides
Pin these
waistband in sides first
half and pin at
1. Secure the threaded drawstring with pins to the waistband so they don’t get
the short end
caught up in the next steps.
with the right
2. We need to finish the waistband seam to form a ‘tube.' It’s easy but can be hard to
envision it since we already stitched up the casings. Fold the waistband as it is sides together
shown in the picture. Pin two inner sides with the right sides together. Then
continue pinning that side. After you finish pinning, all the waistband will be inside.
3. Stitch the waistband seam at 7 mm / 1/4 inch seam allowance using: zigzag or
stretch seam (sewing machine) or 4-threads overlock seam (serger). If using a
sewing machine, overcast edges together, using zigzag or overlock imitation
stitch.
Step 11-2 Turn the drawstrings to the right side
4. Turn the waistband to the right side and press.
Secure the threaded

drawstrings with pins so
they down get caught up in
the next steps
7 mm seam
1/4 inch Turn the
waistband
to the right
Casing
side
opening
is here
Step 11–1 Step 11-3 Step 11-4

Tutorial
(Ruched waistband - regular and maternity)

12 Attach the waistband
1. Match the waistband seam with the center back seam and pin. Match the
waistband drawstring locations with side seams. Make sure that the waistband
at the drawstring opening is pinned and later stitched only through one layer.
7 mm seam
2. Match notches and pin the rest of the waistband to the waistline.
1/4 inch
3. Stitch the waistband to the waistline at 7 mm / 1/4 inch seam allowance using:
zigzag or stretch seam (sewing machine) or 4-threads overlock seam (serger).
If using a sewing machine, overcast edges together, using zigzag or overlock
imitation stitch.
4. Press the waistband seam well to the bottom hem.
5. Adjust the length of the drawstring to your liking.

Step 12-3
Make sure that the

waistband at the
drawstring
opening is pinned
and later stitched
only through one
layer.
Match waistband
seam with the
center back seam
and drawstring
openings with the
side seams
Step 12-1 Step 12-5

Tutorial
13 Finish bottom hem
1. Choose any of the techniques from the Hemming section. For Straight hem
these pants, I chose to have the hem folded once and finished 25 mm seam
1 inch
with a flat seam using a coverstitch.
2. Fold the bottom hem (once or twice) to the wrong side, turn
the hem edge under with the hem allowance stated at the
Front and Back parts. Press and pin the hem.
3. Topstitch from the folded edge using a twin needle or a zig

Step 13-2
zag / stretch stitch. Alternatively you can use a simple straight
stitch as this part of the pants is not likely to be stretched.
4. Press the hem.

I used a coverstitch to finish
the hem. You can achieve the
same look by using twin
needle and straight stitch
with your sewing machine.
Step 13-4

Tutorial
14 Press press press!
1. Press all the seams
2. The better you press, the better look you get.

Use pressers tools for best results.
15 Enjoy!
1. Try it on, make an Instagram post, share your

experience on the FB group
2. Hang your garment and give it a rest
3. Enjoy yourself! You’ve done a great job!
Final look - full length pants

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#Sewsunsetpants: Sunset Knit Lounge Pants

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Sunset knit lounge pants

Step by step sewing tutorial

SIZES EASY REF.

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com

Sizing guide, inch

Sizing UK size 6 8 10 12 14 14/16 16 18 20 22 24 26

General XXS XS S S M M L L XL XL XXL XXL

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 2

REG 162-170 cm / 5’4” - 5’6”

TALL 170-178 cm / 5’7" - 5’9"

REG 162-170 cm / 5’4” - 5’6” Checking the inseam

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 3

© Sinclair Patterns Variations

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 4

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 5

length. pockets. Full length. the knee length. length.

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 6

i Fabric choice and styling options i Supplies and notions

For your Sewing machine you’ll need

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 7

i Techniques for sewing knits i Sewing knits with a serger/overlocker

Knits Overlock edges, then fold and

How to test if the knit fabric is two way stretch:

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 8

i SEAMS and OVERCASTING

Twin needle stitch

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 9

Always test seams on a sample piece of fabric !

Single hem Stabilizing knits when sewing

Decrease the presser foot pressure to the min setting

Use appropriate needles for the weight of the fabric

Use walking foot on your machine

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 10

i Printing the pattern

Print the pages according to your selected version of the pants

This pattern comes in 2 different formats:

How to select sizes/layers to print?

1. Open the pattern file with a required height option (PETITE(SHORT)/REG/TALL) in

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 11

2. If the scaling is right print rest of the sheets

3. Make a layout of sheets on a big surface according to the pictogram on 4

6. Adjust pattern to your measurements before cutting out the pattern

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 12

Grading waist (US12) to hips (US10)

i Grading the pattern (waist)

To grade your waist / hips

Grading waist (US10) to hips (US14)

According to the sizing chart : According to the sizing chart :

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 13

Adjusting the fit

Front crotch adjustment (round pubis) Flat seat adjustment

Front crotch adjustment (flat pubis) Low seat adjustment

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 14

Adjusting the fit

Full inner thigh/seat adjustment

Thin inner thigh adjustment

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 15

i Hem and seam allowances i Pattern definitions

Solid/Dashed line - Cut lines

The pattern already has all seam allowances needed.

Marking dot - used for a reference, for example as a

© Sinclair Patterns 2016-2018 http://sinclairpatterns.com 16

i Fabric preparation i Cut the fabric