# 36350 # 36351 1/35 ZVEZDA #36352 #36353CES {OF TECHNIGUES MAGAZINE BOYZ German steel ats everybody knows them, everybody likes them. German WWII heavy armour always has boon 2 popular subject for modeller all over the world, Most fans of armour modelling have built ther fair share of Tiger, Panthers and variant. In the last couple of years we have been treated to numerous high quality kts of thi subject ‘produced by various manufacturers, We modellers just don't now which to choose. Recently Madern German _rmout has become more and more popular once again, fr the same reson: the plastic bits jut keep improving. "There used tobe an opinion that you can’t weather modern vehicles. Well please havea lookin our reference “ection, evil change your mind, Also the use ofthese machines inrecen conflict Aas given us modell “another opportunity to show wear and tear on modem vehicles. There used tobe atime that modeling 3 ‘modern, post WW, armoured subject was more the exception than the rule, nowadays is almost the other way ‘around. Although this issue called Stel Cats, we must, Spanish master modeller Abii Piero Grajera isn'ta cat ‘modern German steel dog! ease meee ee craic ayut Peer aeeaey pieeae a ae ee ee) tar n cit ce eciae Leanne 752015 ‘ets cea ee mes Gremio Scots rarer near eR earch TANKER 06 1 STEEL CATS / 31G CHT / MENG LEOPARD 207 [DANGEROUS KITTEN “PUMA” 28 cars m neTION 30 —AUGABWEEENORENTRZER GERARD 34 -WIRTER FUCHS 44 ‘THE TAMED TIGER 48 BENGEPRNZER 2000 56 NDGTIGER SDLRFZ 186 64 SCHOOL OF TECHNIQUES 72 GALLERY OF CRTS 78 (NT THE WORKBENCH 80) TANKER 06 / STEEL CATS / 5MERC}UCLA]8 / TANKER 06 / STEEL CATS from the AK range would give the same result. 44. To further unify the tones some localised dry brushing witha buff tone was applied in selected areas using a light scrubbing action to apply the paint. 5. Happy with the overall tone of the Colours at this point, the next step was to add a pin wash of diuted 502 ol This is one of my favourite parts of 6. further pallet of 502 oil pants is se willbe used Yo ad ional effects to the paintwork the oils ae fist applied to a piece of cardboard and left for 20-30 ‘minutes to allow any excess oil to absorb into the card before the oils are Used on the mode 7. Here we see the tones ofthe green camouflage being adjusted to add further visual interest. brush slightly moistened with thinners will be used ta blend the ol into the base acrylic colour,‘onto the areas on the model damage to the the correct colour tone. 9. To further unify the colours ‘and add more visual interes, ‘ode using a41. with all of the base paint layers in place next ca begin one of my wourte parts ofthe weathering proce acing the paint chips, scuffs ang scratches, My prefered method of recreating these effects is 1 use small pieces of dense sponge and a fine tipped brush. The sponges torn up into small pieces; this will ge us uneven edges age which in turn wl ive mare random Here we are starting the process by adiing the lighter chips and scutfs which have worn through ne camouflage colours but have not penetrated as far asthe primer coat. Ths met can be very quick to apply but perhaps its bi lable this be, The main thing to remember about this methad isto always unload thee ge onto nel until you are happy that al the excess hi applying any paint onto the mode 12, With te lighter chips and scratches complete we damage; this has damaged the pant through to the steel underneath the paint and rime ‘oduce this efect we use the same sponge appic iy, but Change the colour ofthe paint. For this chipping we use AK 117 i ibich a perfect colour to represent ths kind of damage, This effect m uly thought out 235 to where twill Be applied and w a for this kind 13. To further refine the damaged sme AKIIT colour, a fine brush s used 10 ad smal scus and sponge effects, These small touches will goa 14. Finaly a small amount of AK crusted Rusti added to the damaged area to show the nto the metal caused by the resting damage. Once the rust effects have dr ite is rubbed over the damaged area to impart a slight metalic sheen from the last two effects are best kept as much understated as possible, if the effect i too the other effects and loose the aspect of re 10 / TANKER 06 / STEEL CATS415. The method of choice forthe ust coat application ist airbrush on two light coats of AK chipping fluid followed by light ‘atbrushed coats of a dust mix made up from Tamia acrylic colours thinned with water Again itis important to pace the distin logical areas, adding heavier dust around the lowe hllareas where there would be a greater build up. Nex using a Stiff brush dampened with warm water the dust effects ae careuly removed to ave the appearance of areas of ingrained dust that had eter flaked off when dey or had been scuffed off bythe actions of the crew forthe mation af the tank 16. At this point we block in the mud bulidkup on thelowerhull areas and the wheels using varios dark mud toned acrylic pains, the colour can apps wil tone the stark cous down, The inital mud build ‘up was made using filer applied tothe lower hull and wheels before the model ‘as painted, | have found tis method ‘again allows a much greater contol than adding mud deposits at a later date using pigment powders. 17. The next step in the weathering process parhaps the most dificult step ‘on ths model, 0 create the wet effects, All of the weathering upto this point had been working up to the application of the wet effects. While researching period pictures and internet images ‘ofboth civlian and military vehicles in he rai, the main thing that became apparent was not only wl rain make he vehicle surfaces look gossy the Brain also sgniticatly darkens the tones of the paintwork, With this in mind, create wet effects snot just a simple 28 applying loss varnish to show where the wet areas are we must also darken he tone of the paintwork in these areas. After experimenting with various caaurandvorih comings the two, products found best suitedfor therain Aad effects were AK enamel Tack Wash and Fuel Stans, by mixing these products together and thining ther with AK thinner we are able to create a wash hich wil darken the paintwork and also {ve aplcasing gloss sheen, recreating the appearance of ain soaked on the vehicle's paintwork 18. Hece we see the wet effects mix boeing applied tothe road wheels, the wash can be adjusted to suit the required effets, where rain water would natur pool more of the fuel stains product is Used giving more ofa gloss effect in hose areas. Aso the fuel stains product can be used directly from the jar with this thicker consistency being used to create running and tracking ain effects. As with all of the weathering stages carried ‘ut on this model this effects best built ‘pin layers, adding small amounts and cifferent consistencies of the wash at ‘me, until we are happy withthe reared effects,19, Using the same mix of Track Wash and Fuel Stains we have used previously on the road wheels we now begin to apply the ran effects to the upper panels ofthe ‘ret, Here we have to change the way the wash is applied to this area. We now se a short stubby brush and apply the wash in a stippling motion; this helps to create a mottled effect in keeping withthe ‘appearance of rain water on a fat dusty surface, We can also see how the wash has significantly darkened the paint workin relation to yet untreated areas, 20. Moving on from the turret roof, the next area to be treated with rain effects is the zimmerit cating on the tute sides. As rain water would not st on this textured surface in the same manner as the turret and hull oofs, a second batch of the rin effects wash was mixed up and more thinner added than te fst batch to allow the wash to flow more freely. This wash was then simply loaded onto the brush and touched on the tops ofthe turet sides lowing capillary action to draw the wash into the textured areas ofthe zimmerit ‘and als to track down the recesses in the pattem as rain water would do in real life. Again this effect i but up in ayers ‘oing back and forth with more washes as required. Once this wash had completely dried we can go back over the wet areas with fel stains applied again directly from the jar and add further rain streaks to enhance the appearance ofthe effects 21. To represent the effects the rin would have on the dust, brown mud splate from the Wilder range was applied using the speckling technique tothe turret and upper hull. The speckting application leaves fine spots of the brown mud on the horizontal surfaces of the model, perfectly recreating ‘the small spots of cust created by rial 22. In addition to the dust spots, the Wilder brown mud was used to create the effects of the dust being washed away by the rain causing the dust to leave tracking ‘effects sits washed down the slope of the turret root. Ths “tacking” effect i Created using a fine pointed brush and utilizing the same technique used to create rust streaks, 23. The ain effects ate further enhanced by adding some 502 smoke and dark earth oil pants to Humbrol gloss varnish, this dives us a more concentrated gloss effect. This maxis then applied to the areas where the rain water would collect and pool such asin recesses and weld seams. Also some further rain tracking effects are added at this stage using tis mi 24, AK fuel stains are now speckled onto ‘the ower hull areas to further enhance the wet effects 25. Again the AK fuel stains product is ‘sed neat fom the jar to ad the final round of wet effects tothe lawer hull and wack. 42. TANKER 06 / STEEL CATS Alt Bh ma ie “i ui: I‘The Leopard 2 was developed by Krauss-Matfei in the 1970's as a successor to the Leopard 1, which had been Germa- y's front line tank since the mid 60's. Like its predecessor, the Leopard 2 has seen widespread use beyond Germany, serving with many nations. The tank has received many upgrades, the most noticeable of which came with the 2 AS ‘when the slab-sided turret of the earlier models gave way to a much more menacing wedge-shaped look due to the 2xkition of an appigué armour package tothe turret and side skits. The newest version, the 2A7 which, although Ws- ually similar to the previous AB model, features many new systems and enhancements based on experience derived % {rom operations in Afghanistan by Canadian and Dutch forces. These are actually upgraded A6's, to be converted to A7’s. The frst tank was handed over to the German Army in December 2014, with 14 now serving with Tank Battalion 203. ‘ The models rot bulk sth am thebox, The mUldedon grab Alte yon blocks wer tte green andmasted off core fades alee y oh: Tae ct cofpede eta Sing rae Ble arg panting gov te hele sd tha beter locking, Sat pho etch has graded inde ie tou i Sopropy ale to degeae te tothe sole dscargers whe he kt ones: pace neta plastic and eve any is that od cesta trough ater are testo the eopard Worksop he ow alse held. sly dots step sng aus, kitareryion stings; these ae replaced by bras wire for ob iOUSeas07 ‘And that’s actualy all you need to bring this kitbang up to date l ”7 ag3. Time for some colour, and the fst 10.40 down was an overall coat of the "Meng NATO green. This paint (and the others too) had a stainless steel shaker (ax892) ball added tothe bottle to ‘mix the paint up more thoroughly. To my eyes, the colour seems like a good match forthe green shade used by the Getman Aer lightened the NATO green sightly and sprayed some random highlights concentrating mainly on the upper surfaces, Alot ofthis will et covered by the other camo colours, but it adds 2 little bit of variation tothe finish 48 / TANKER 06 / STEEL CATS 4.1n tis scale it would be perfectly reasonable 16 spray the camo with hard masking, or use sly putty/bu-tack to get avery slight feathered edge. Inmy cas I decided to free-hand the camo to save time, which resulted ina sighty softer edge than is strictly accurate but given the weathering that would subsequently be applied, I fet it was a reasonable compromise 5. If you're going tofree-hand a camo finish, the ‘easiest method isto fst mark out the edges ofthe camo keeping the airush as cose to the surface asyou can. The paint will need thinning and the air pressure will need to be kept quite low. Once you've ‘marked out the edges you can simpy filin the centre of the camo, 6. With the camo applied, the colours seer 16 match up wel tothe real paint shades, The paints sprayed well and had no problems vith te paint drying on the needle tip, which 's always a potential sue with ary paints ‘gloss coat is added next to apply the decals {and once on, they ae protected with another layer of varnish 7. The Leopard was looking very nice at this point, but alittle on the clean side. Time to ‘ety things up abit then To start the ball roling | applied a pin wash around the details with AK's wash for NATO vehicles, This wash looks very dark in the bottle, but dries to 3 ‘more subtle shade and really heps to define the details without making ther too stark,8. To tone down the finish a tle, 2 brown filter was added. This wasn't applied evenly over the ‘whole model. Some areas received ‘a heavier coat than others, which helped give alittle variation across the surface. 9. The black camo was still a bit to dark at this point, so! ‘mixed the dark NATO wash with | mid-grey wash intended for ‘weathering ships. This was applied conly over te black areas and teal helped give a more faded look to the camo, 10. Okay i's time to start on the eal weathering ‘ow. The German Army lke to put their Leopards through their paces on exercises, and they generally come out looking distinctly muddy. I wanted to show progressive build-up of mud and dit, with heavier layers on the lower hull going through to a lighter, dst ook on the upper surfaces. To achieve the bulk ofthe dust layers used the Abt. 502 ols that are now available in handy boxed sts. 11. Fist off, a pale mud tone was mixed from the al and thinned to a heavy wash, Ths was applied allover the upper surfaces and allowed to pool around details and panel ines. Due to the longer working time of the fils you can adjust the build-up to give a more natural appearance 12. A thicker wash is applied in areas where dust and dirt would accumulate. 13, With a flat brush moistened with white spn the ol paint i gently blended in to achieve the look of accumulated dust. 14, To futher build up the dust coat, AK Light Dust Deposits wash was ‘applied. This wash has particles mined into it which leave a very convincing dirt encrusted look. Aside benefit ofthe tenamel based wath i that it helps seal the previous ol layer. TANKER 06 / STEEL CATS / 19415, The racks had been primed with the AK black primer {atthe same time as the hull and turret To start the painting process I masked off a line on the inner tracks where the ‘main wheels would run and polish up the steel inks, then ‘gave the tacks a coat of AK Rusty Tracks mixed with ate Dry Light Mu, both from AK’ Tracks and Wheels set (AK 55. Alter that, the rubber blacks on the outer face of the inks ‘were painted wath a mix of satin black and rubber tires, 292i ftom the Tracks and Wheels set. ‘The outer sides ofthe tracks were given a heavy wash of the AK Dust Deposits mined with some ight earth coloured pigments. Once that was dy, the tracks were flipped over ‘and the inne sides were given the same wash. 20 / TANKER 06 / STEEL CATS 46. The wheels were then coated vith the same enamel and pigment ‘wash Pd used on the tracks 177. Moving back tothe hull now, and it was ime to get some heavy mud on. f you want get areal ‘encrusted mud look, i's important to get some texture into the mix you use, For this mud mix combines plaster, very fine sand and dried Sgatden soi, and to bind tall together a tle AK earth wash and Some good old Humbrol enamel 48, The dy ingredients were sieved to remove ay large lumps, and then thoroughly mixed, as any unmiaed lumps of plaster will stand out like the proverbial sore thumb when the mud mixis ty 419, The enamels were added to the dy mix along with enamel thianer to get a thick ‘sloppy consistency. This was then liberally daubed over the lower hull and running gear, having made sure to mask off the axles first You can aso fick the mixture on with a stiff brush, but be careful to cover any areas ‘that you don't want the mud to cove.20. Once dry, the mix gives avery tealstic caked mud look. You can see where the muddy mix was flicked ‘onto the front and reat ofthe ul to leave a more diffused edge. 21. The same mix was aso applied to the wheels 22, More moist areas of mud were ‘Simulated by over-painting the previous mud layer with AK Dark Mud wash 23, With the hull nicely dirty | could add the wheels and track runs. Since the Leopard has side sits dirt bother wth the upper run, and simply ued the two tends ofthe tacks to the idler and dive sprocket. 24, After the side skirts had been added, | masked off the lower hull with apiece of card and used a variation ofthe muddy mix used previously to splatter the sides fof the tank. This time I eft out the plaster and sand as Gidh’t want the resulting mud to be too lumpy, replacing them with earth coloured pigments. The mixture was. loaded onto a brush, and was then blown ove the sides fof the model with a bast ofa from an aitbrush. 25. t's worth practising ths technique against ‘ard or an old model before doing it fr rea, and always remember to check photos of the real vehicle to see how mud gets distributed over the bodywork 26, The very last thing to do was add some contrast to the muddy weathering with some damp patches created with a mix of AK Fresh Mud and Wet Effects. This was brushed around the wheel hubs and the panel nes onthe skirts, and anywhere else that looked ike it ‘would retain some dampness in the mud TANKER 06 / STEEL CATS / 21DANGE “DH ROUS KITTEN I | decided to build a Puma for se mental reasons - it was one of the first plastic kts lever built. Now was the time todo it again but with lots more experience and a good idea which needed to be realized, | want ‘ed to present a vehicle operating in France during the summer of 1944. "Thad two good-looking figures and, set of photo etched foliage which bring the kit close to resembling the real vehicles which can be seen in the ‘war propaganda films. The diversity of the aftermarket products allowed. ‘me to create a quite correct model but more importantly, to build a nice eye catcher! There were 4 versions of the 234 series produced with varying arma- ‘ment and some small structural variations but it could be said that Puma was the most powerful armed wheeled reconnaissance vehicle uring World War il and because of the name, the ‘most popular. The Germans produced 101 examples ofthis INTERESTING THINGS FROM A MODELLERS POINT OF VIEW: ‘FELD NigbIACATIONS: Lato B0% ore fot rear mudguar | Wosider?ahriotition box onthe right front mudguard. twas held in lacey shapes brackets. The crew used itfor additional ammunition for the{gun apd also to stow some tools and personal belongings Hpokstpa die turret to attach the foliage retaining wire Tagline ence on the front hatch ZoTRES: Heagoaal which were seen on very early vehicles; ig. zaq)fyee 1 and 219-209 type 2 which were the most opuar State ype oxovided in the kit which were seen on vehicles produced atterDecemier 1924; P Aled tres and some civilan patterns. 3. PAINTING AND MARKINGS The camo was applied by the units because the vehicles were delvered conly in dark yellow. twas painted as broad bands or thin sepes Te winter camo was probably applied too but there is only one example cof whitewashed vehicle; 24 Crosses on all turtet sides. They were painted by the units. The sides ‘ones can bein different positions but the entre of the turret was the sual postion The numbers mostly were black or ed with a white border. Some vehides carried numbers on the front mudguards; The divisional insignias were not common but if presented th Painted on the lef front hul The license plates were painted before the vehicle's delivery; on the front and rear of te hull a a white rectangle with black border and numbers The other markings painted inthe factory: the tres pressure (on the ‘mudguard over every wheel -@ att), weight and class (he rectangle on the left side ofthe hull, speed limit (on both sides ofthe hull o the front - 35 Km) FIGURES - | used Miniart’s German Tank Crew figures but the heads were replaced with resin ones. The headphone wires were added inthe Sane manner as were some PE pats. Both figures were painted with acrylics and detaled with Archer's dry decals,[After a very quick buld | had the model ready tobe painted. Note that replaced the metal ‘width indicators and machine gun barel (RB Model) the gun mantet, antenna mount, the fre extinguishers and the wheels PanzerArt).|have here 3 diferent versions of road wheels which were quite commonly found during service. Some small upgrades were also dane - wires, weld seams, damage to the fenders, the handles on the turret and some small elements on the hatches, | had 2 bottles of almost finshed primer S501 mixed them into one and applied it to ‘the model. At this stage | made sue that all surfaces were ready tobe painted and ro corrections were needed, TANKER 06 J STEEL CATS / 25i a Te typical sand yellow shade of the German panzers was done with Tamiya paint With the mixture of base coor, wh te and yellow | created some modulation of colors ‘Some small paper sheets were helpful in spraying The VMIC Butf was used to paint deals The camo colors were sprayed on the whole vehicle except Note the different shades of al the elements the metal box on the lef rear mudguard them to Be ofthe additonal rear bax s For the chipping | used 0,1 and 0,3 pigment ink pencils. They ae useful but we needed to wait unl they were dry especially when large areas ere covered with inkSome streaking rime was applied, especialy on the front plate and on the tures sides il paints were also used to simulate dit {and stains on entire mode entre model ‘covered with thin coat af matt coat using Tamiya XF-86 Flat Cleat The component around the mudguards to simulate nee tis. Noe tat they Ix eter nthe dlisted areas ited diferent proportions wih white spi —— The colors used to paint it ist painted the dark green on all straps and after that added ight green bones (Panz the Hessian me materials | used are visible here, and brown16. First work with fli painting they look very realistic .becat foliage (ua with Chaos Black (Citadel, tis much harder than acryc primers as I needed tobe sue that paint Would not come off curing handling. 18, The colo for the moreover each le was bent separately. 19. The last touches of green to bring more contiast in the folageDer so Ocbelsyop RRL Recent oi OTs THE LEADING MI SCALEMODEL-ONLINESHOPS 5 p ae Bae te Ena _ - Allways up to date Sagi ea % visit us at: =a aT a More than 32.000 products online for all modelling enthousiasts! NEW SHOP EXPANSION + 220 m? OPENING HALF 2017 it yr ee FOR Too PRORESSTONAES‘Text & captions by Patrick Winnepenninckx Photos by Ralph Zwilling & Patrick Winnepenninckx During WW1 one invention was to have an enormous impact on the evolution of land warfare, this invention was the tank. ‘The battle of Cambrai at the end of 1917 saw the concentrated use of around 476 British tanks to penetrate the German Hindenburg Line. This resulted in a breakthrough of a defensive area previ- ‘ously viewed as impenetrable. In WW2, during the Battle of the Bulge, approximately 3000 tanks took part in the fighting; one ‘cannot deny that throughout the last century the tank has become 2 formidable weapon with devastating capabilities. ‘Another aspect of modern warfare was the introduction of cam- ‘ouflage by military forces to protect personnel and equipment from enemy observation. The aim isto deceive the enemy as to jesence, position and intentions of military formations by conceal it from observation or to makeit appear as something else. ‘While applying camouflage in the field, soldiers need to consider ‘the environment in which they operate, e.g. taking into account the tones and “background” colours. ‘The German army during World War It played a major role in the development of modern combined arms tactics and the concept of ‘mobile warfare integrating motorized infantry and concentrated tank forces supported by artillery and airpower. This tactic was better known as “Blitzkrieg”. When the war reached its turning point in 1942/1963 with the battles of Stalingrad and Kursk, the ‘German panzer forces became great innovators of military camou- flage. Some very interesting and surprisingly modern camouflage patterns and colors found on late war Panthers and Tigers p proof of thi With the start of the Cold War, Western and Eastern armies re- ‘turned to plain green vehicles. The exact reason for this is unclear ‘but one of the causes could be the belief that a major conflict ‘between the opposing sides would have been fought in the large ‘open fields of former West-Germany extensively using aerial recognition and air support. Again, whitewash or mud colored blotches were applied (without any defined pattern) during winter ‘or spring time respectively in order avoid detection. During this timeframe the German army introduced the German- ‘built Leopard 1 MBT, remarkably this was only ten years after the 30 / TANKER 06 J STEEL CATS Bundeswehr had been founded. Continued improvements and the ‘extreme reliability of the tank made it the spearhead of the mod- ‘ern German armored forces up until 2003, at which time the last Leopard 1's were taken out of service. Notably the Leopard 2 had already been in service for 24 years at that date. Itis only from the 1984-1985 period that western armies started painting their tanks in the new, but now commonly used, NATO 3 ‘tone camouflage pattern. The Germany army's 2nd and 3rd pro- duction batches Leopard 2's were still painted in bronze greet ‘the December 1984 4th production batch (Leopard 2A3) were the first to get the distinctive 3 tone pattern.Later on, other vehicles in the German inventory such as Bergepanzers and Gepards had the same pattern applied. ‘The Bundeswehr introduced the ‘Umtarnfarben’ non-permanent ‘camouflage colours in 2003 in order to allow effective camouflage {or vehicles and equipment when operating in Afghanistan. The Umtarnfarben range consists of five colours, namely Helloliv (RAL {6040 F9 light olive-green), Sandbraun (RAL 8031 F9 sand brown), Sandbeige (RAL 1039 F9 sand beige), Graubeige (RAL 1040 F9 grey beige) and Tarngrau (RAL 7050 F9 camouflage grey). More recently, the German company KMW proposed some new versions of the Leopard 2 (Leopard 2 PSO and Leopard 247+) de ing with the new asymmetric insurgency threats with which west- ‘ern armies have been confronted in the last decade. The Leopar 2.PSO prototype bears an interesting urban camouflage pattern imilar to the British Berlin brigade pattern of the 1980's. Some show case tanks also have several desert patterns applied. None of these were standardized in the German army Introduced in the middle of the Cold War, the Leopard 2 became ‘the successor to the Leopard 1 in 1979. From the day of its intr duction the Leopard 2's design turned out to be a milestone of post-war German tank technology. This s also proven by the fact ‘that the Leopard 2s in service with 16 other countries to date. ‘Thanks to the excellent cooperation between Ralph Zwiling and myself, which has become a true friendship, we present you in ‘the next couple of pages an overview of interesting photos and. details of these German steel cats. We hope this will inspire yout Panzer MarschitTAM 9. How dirty can a tank get! The colours of the ‘ank are almost entirely 10. top 6 covered in rubber dust Noti tick to the air itakes on he engine compartment, 11.4 brand new and ‘reshly painted Leopard Teerschwartz (RAL 9021) ‘spray painted on the vehicle The Leopard 246M in dust and scratches are already starting to appear 12. After the cancellation the Leopard 2 PSO The German axmy srrenly has 20 Leopard AA's (14 in the 2nd eopard 247+ The Leopard 2 UT (versuchstager ~ stveicle) was based on 2 former Dutch Leo 6 a5 seen in ily The tanks painted a RAL 7050), fist Leopard 2 proposed by tothe German army in hune 2008 as 2 propo the Leopards 2 for erations in conflicts th symmet Note the FvSKY BOIL ‘Tobe honest | actually never really liked this vehicle, until got my hands on the Meng kit. Besides the very attractive box art | was really impressed with the contents of the box to say the least. The level of detail is just amazing and although not a fan I just had to do it for the sake of the detail included in thi kit It was really crying out to be built. ‘The instructions show we can build 3 different German vehicles finished in the familiar NATO 3 tone camouflage, but when, Hooked at the kit more closely | also discovered that the early version of the 35mm Oerlikon antiaircraft guns were also supplied . So after a quick browse on the internet | decided to do an early version in service with the Bundeswehr (German army) finished only in RAL 6014 Gelboliv. ! must admit, not the easiest color to finish a model, and thus, | went back to search for inspiration.USS SIRENWith the point of 2 ipeneedle we mark spot we need to the holes fr the The molded on grab PPer replacement handles ae cu off with 3 1ab handles. sharp knife. Be careful to After the remaining ‘not darmage the model by plastic sanded cutting 100 deep. flush, hoes f 0.3mm ‘ate dele, With a drop of Superalue the coppe handles are inserted, Use a spacer to make sure al the handles are at the same height Before we omit the side skirts we fx them temporary in plac ‘with tape, Gently we dil the holes through the skit into th hull to mark the mounting points. Aftor they are marked Temove the skits and we ail the holes a bit further The muzzle brakes of the guns oiled out further for. better visual effect Antenna b replaced by a small ameter copper tube into which we wil ater insert se tute is kept divided in sub assemblies for easier painting and weathering 36 / TANK‘The foliage that willbe used comes from specialized manufacturers such as The camouflage net SMMBBRT » piece of gaure bandage, craped over the model and cu to size with cso. 0.2 mm wire is used to keep th camouflage net in place and will also be used to keep the foliage in place. fx Studios, 5 A test fitol the foliage the look of the vehicle and see how much actualy needed The Gelbol RAL 6014 is mixed from AK's 4213 Olve Drab ’S0 ‘and white, Thsis of couse rot the exact color, a5 we intentionally make the basecoat lighter. Fist ofall because o the Scale effect but also so that ‘the color will darken during the weathering process ore we apply the camouflage we first put on a ‘oat of primer inthe form of [k's Primer and microti Whe the primer ison, it advised to look fo faults or regulars as at this stage they can easily be rectified Right after we applied the basecoat we added more white into the mixture and sprayed the complete model in a coud pattern to achieve some depth and shadow effects. Thi is followed bya coat of Satin varnish to seal off the paintjob TANKER 06 / STEEL CATS / 37To highlit al the uch a bolts, handles et We me more whit catefuly paint them in ths lighter with Thinner the exce pals removed. ind the deal eet soft fish you actualy paint Some subtle streaking is painted on with the same ate supposed to run straight nud flaps we pain them as if ney occured asthe vehicle was in forward motion With Streaking Grime we roughly outtine all th deta and accentuate the panel lines, then lea Tim the aitbrush with alight JWistin paces where it would accumulate. Spray in thin, almost ‘ransparent layers and build up the effect gradually Use tape to 3 kot areas that with dust dust effects the same used again, withthe specklnapplied next and mal clippings f ol paint Effects fluid and with white sprit, wiTamiya texture paint sol effec our pi soaked in da retaining wite is also aces and painted in a dark brown color y putin place in such naturally on ouMfg Of the folage vas inspired by photos found on the internet but also from the reference photas found inthis issue. The weathering ofthe foliage wil determine the overall look ofthe ‘madel t must have a uniform look in narmary with the rest of the made! in ‘order achieve a realistic irish ne weathering ofthe turret i basically the same as on the hull, but much less intense. Again the specting technique is applied to get the effects of thrown Up mud splatters. We facus mainly fn the front ofthe turret as withthe hull t's the front part that is subject to most ofthe weathering, AAs we kept paint damage tothe bare minimum, we only applied superficial scratches and chipping, we metalized parts of the vehicle that are subject to wear and tear when the crew mounts the vehicle \Vehiles in exercise often had ted crosses on them. © bring some cot in ou ‘model we painted strips of ape red and applied those to the sides ofthe turret The soot on the exhausts done with ‘smoke’ pigments, Finally the barels of the Oerzon guns are fist painted ina dark grey color and next metalized with Burned Jet engine pigments. This effect is subtle but realist. The ‘Guns can now be installed and some foliage is added, ANKER 06 / STEELCATS / 44ME Ste oO Sry isa German 8x8, Oa re cee eo Perot —_ ‘One of the main things that | noticed when | opened the box was the large size ofthe model, bigger than | would have expected, and the second thing ‘was that as a2in 1 kit t allows you to build either the A1 or A2 version, the Teo Deere ce ees Peete eee eee cere mires ey sie Sree ey b Se.2 Se en eee Pare nt) eee ee’ Pe eo ee Prien nee teeta vr eee ery See Ueeay ces Vt CROC Pee ee ny ee eRe vation and gunnery system which replaced the original infra red/ white light night vision system eRe ce can Cron net Ty Soy oa Cec Res) {are loads of moulding pips and small pieces to clean and sand, mainly on the suspen- Caoe ee ee ue coloured PE fret, a DS flap for the main gun and clear pieces. There are small cut-outs included correcting some errors in the instruction booklet, but there are also some others I detected Seog tas ‘The first 12 steps involve the complete suspension system, being without doubt the most dif- ficult part of the kit, including bump stops, spring mounts, ball joints, steering racks, torque links and transmission covers. First you have to glue the shack absorbers (two types) and their ‘mounts to the lower hull but the instructions don't show you the correct angle, so decided to tse a small piece of Blu-Tack until | attached the axles in step 3. Each of the 4 axles is slightly different so it's very important to check the instructions and do a dry fitting. One of the most complex things was to attach the steering rods as they are sup posed to be done by threading a pin trough an eye and then secured by gluing a PE washer Se Re ke Re eee ed cee ete eee ee koe ‘to add strength to the axles. The axles are connected to each other viaa drive shaft.‘The hull, turret and rest of vehicle received alight coat of Squadron's green putty Cee ee Ee eee aso added tothe lower hull using green Putty applied with the help of an old Cree rae neces Cnet ace eae ere tere eee eee eet es caps and also the wire forthe IR device that Pee anna Set eee Pere oer ois eis Bi Cee ener yy eee ad eee ae gece ices ete ee eee ecg of preshading using AK799 NATO black thinned with eee ae ae! eas Serene eto era Capers piercer eee ee tae et ener) eens ener eee Nee os Baa Pt Rebrush the white camo exercises. twos The net step applied during th fay simple using AK 79 low pressure, tied to a edges but kept in mind applied in the field Once dry, | aitbrushed heavily thinned NATO black around panel line, joints and main details to creat shadows. Next airbrushed a couple of layers of {Ak acrylic satin varish to seal would be applied. This varnish is water soluble, odoutess ana ha drying time of around 30 he decals were fixed in lace using AK $82 decal adapter lution. Once dry, | applied cat of satin varnish shade of green then painted the tools and details suchas lights, towing al ‘them ready for further weathering, ps mae 46 J TANKER 06 / STEEL CATSUsual ites are a great way to add the fist tonal richness to our ‘models, but in this case | prefered to apply afew light and thinned layers of dust instead of just one filter. You may repeat the process if you want to enhance any area by changing the transparency ofthe layer of dust or even using another sir tone. Less ie more The folage and taining red crosses add imerest and colour to the Luchs OILS. Once the model was dry I started to work with Abteilung 502 oil. ils {ate the best way, n my opinion, to obtain al sort of effects as we can use their opacity and are very easy to blend, they aso have asiow drying time. My main palette is made of carboard pieces because | prefer to use the cardboard to absorb the linseed ol and obtain a much mote matt finish, The colours {depend on the model and usualy change from one model to another, but buff, dark browns and greens are alvays on my palete| used the well known dot technique by applying the dark tones onthe dark base colour and viceversa helping me to enhance and accentuate te previous preshading work. | do not lays streak the paint downward as sometimes it's intresting to add etfects Such as acumulated dust and mud around corners and bolts. | work tle by ile ‘adding layers from lighter to darker tones, less is mare. Note the rie detailing ofthe anti sip surface pronded inthe kit, highlighted with some dry brushingIf you ever happen to lack inspiration for new projects let me recommend to you the Panzerwrecks-Series from Lee Arch: cer and the late Wiliam Auerbach. Quite 2 few of my recent models were based fon pictures | have seen in these books and the list of Panzerwrecks-inspired Ideas keeps growing. Panzerwrecks 11 Is thematically based on the Normandy ‘campaign and there was one vehicle in particular which caught my interest. On [pages 42 and 43 you can find 6 pictures of a battered and beaten Tiger tank sit- ting on a flatbed trailer or in the process of being unloaded from the trailer. It was Tiger 114 of 1./s.55-P2.Abt.101 af ter it was captured by the British ne: Fonteney-le-Pesnel on June 26th 1944. The tank was shipped to England for evaluation, which struck me as odd, be- cause the Tiger wasin anything but good shape. There were missing road wheels, the side fenders were heavily dented and chipped and the exhausts were missing altogether! But the extensive battle dam- ‘age made this subject so interesting. The German Tiger tanks undoubtedly were mighty fighting machines and seeing a ‘once mighty Tiger ‘tamed’ is always very Intriguing to me. Luckily! still had one of the legendary Dragon “Tiger late” 46253 kits in my stash, which was basically all needed to get started. 48CONSTRUCTION Since all the hatches were open, | had to deal the interior aswell. The goal ‘was ta obtain a reasonable level of detail and the Verlinden Set VL 2307 “Through the hatch ~ Tiger | Aus * was just perfect todo the trick. As the name suggests the Verlinden kt includes only parts of areas which can be seen through the hatches. The kit contained resin parts ofthe driver's compartment and the turet interior wich were easy to clean, assemble and to paint, However reference material is ahways recommended since the instructions are somewhat vague. For the Zmmeritl used the ATAK-resn et #35032, however, certain areas needed tobe cut ut. The Germans lft some free space forthe unit markings and the Allies removed even more Zimmer for thee shipping stent seems they literally raked the Zimmerit of, revealing the red primer underneath, The resin Zimmert sheets were fied into place with superglue, Any occurring gaps were filed with thinned putty. Then, with the tip of a scalpel bade, | mitated damage ‘caused by smal arms fire The exhaust silencers are both missing! This of course was a very rare sight and one can only imagine how loud the engine sounded. The remaining armored covers were reworked to give them a mote realistic cast ton appearance. On the orginal it can be seen that most ofthe tools and other detals were missing already. Smaller deta ike the tool clamps were replaced by photo-etched pieces from Aber. The side sits were inthe kit and they were Just perfect to recreate the damage seen onthe orginal pictures. The running gear was aso quite damaged, Apart from the missing suspension arms and missing road wheels, some of the remainder show qute some batle damage, which was also carefully reproduced on the model. The gun mantlet and the spare track hangers were detailed with fine casting numbers from Archer and the white metal tracks used were from Fiuimodelismo (ATL-06)ora ‘Aswith every wrecked or heavily damaged tank, the wear and tear was very obvious, and ths particular Tiger was no different, Alsa striking were the white “markings on various areas ofthe Tiger, knocked Cou or abandoned vehicles Intered the roads of "Normandy and obviously our Tiger was one of them ‘The Alles painted the exposed areas in bright white, inorder to avoid colisions at right. Needles to say, ‘that this is a very interesting feature on a mode. So | thought! The white paint onthe tracks, the gun ‘mantlet and on the rer hl sides stirred up many tliscussions at model shaws. Before | got to apply ‘those white bands of paint there was much other work todo, which willbe discussed next, ‘The model was fst primed with Vallejo’ aryic polyurethane surface primer 73.605 "German Red Brown", This serves asthe typical German red prime ‘which eventually might be exposed in some areas during the chipping process 50 / TANKER 06 J STEEL CATSne time | found bis They have to ith asset > make sure th ting painted next The track base coat The expose such asthe spare tacks a a matt black ac inks ec 1s also received the chipring: the red prime used matching the ise Val acrylic paints from Vallejo or A 3 better perfor tothethe hull ol and grease was ‘on ars, andin and around‘The Bergepanzer 2000s amore modern version of the standard Bergepanzer Leopard, The Belgian ariny bought 38 of these together with the standard Leopard 1A1 in the late 1960s. This impressive recov- ‘ery vehicle was on my to-do list for Along time, and a couple years from Perfect Scale Modelbau. To be hon- ‘est the kit itself isa bit of a disappointment. While ‘the overall dimensions are correctit lacks detail, and to make. This kt wl require extensive ebuiling, deta journey that took me almost 2 years to finish, here is the BgPz 2000. ‘ ) { /Carefully folowing bulcing instructions we assembled al the parts forthe hulintaror. One Part |fnoticed was missing inthe kit was a ear plate onthe rear bukhead ofthe interior. To avoid a possible view in the empty engine compartment I cut a plastic card sheet to size and glued itn place with cyano. After my fist ayers of paint noticed the poor casting quality of several parts, | decided to fil all gaps and ar bubbles, sanded everything smooth and prepared everything for painting again. | used Tamiya acrylic paints to give the interior a base coat. We mixed XF-2 and XF 660 obtain an ivory ke interior cole. Al paintwork was protected with an Alclad varnish lye. Alter painting everything in ther appropriate colors it was tie for pinwashes to obtain some depth and shadows. Thinned ol paints ae used Chipping was done with a fine brush and ‘with the sponge technique using Vallejo (Geiman camo black brown, [A this stage we glued all the sub assemlies of the intenor in pace to get closed the hull using supergive gel and tec/slicone glue. was not it ready for oluing the lower and upper hull together. Weathering ofthe sure supergive alone would be enough to support the upper and lower itetior was kept basic as not that much would be visible afterwards hull parts. The superglue gel type made sure we had some adjusting time to fit everything properly + Atypical Belgian feature ofthe recovery tank isthe rear stowage trunk. This trunk isbolted to the engine deck ands used as a Material unk. t was based upon the We started ‘measurements taken from areal ane. Plastic card and leftover photo etch helped constructing the crane After the Start noticed ‘thatthe hydraulic _a1ms to support the crane were Unfit to use. A ftend of mine helped me ‘outwith some ‘custom made hydraulic ars and purnps. Some supporting rods made sure the crane could be putin ary position | wanted ‘when complete 58 / TANKER 06 J STEEL CATS me in constructing my 135 trunk,Eduard photo etch set was used to recreate the tool holders onthe hull sides along with various scratch ble parts and items. The hatches were smosified and test fied at ths stage ‘The engine deck Detailing of the rear section of the recovery ako received tank, | had to scratch al tow bars from fumerous sll naw ping since the kt parts were ako tals that are bent. An important feature not included in missing; most of ‘the kit re the rear mud flaps, These were them were made made of 0.25mm plastic card after studying from plastiard reference pictures The recovery tank has an ant-sip coating in numerous places ats to protect the crew from sipping on the smooth surface. This antisp was not cast nto the model so had to recreate it myself, Rul Meie a fellow KMK club member helped me with a great idea Using magnesium powder fixed with X22 varish The technique is very simple and effective. Pace some Tamiya tape to protect non anti-slip zones. Fst spray a ‘wet layer of varnish an immediately sprinkle powder ‘on the wet area, Remove the excess by flipping over the model and tapping itwith your finger. The ast Step is putting on thi layers off vanish to fix the powder in place. Once dry this becomes rock solid and ooks lke the real anti-slip surface in scale [Alter the anti sip coating i 0, the roof ofthe vehicle is further detaled using photo-etch parts and handles made of copper wieD Detatng of the frontend of the recovery tank. [tested feature commonly seen con a recovery tank with the addition ofthe V tow bar Inthe end I decided not to add ths deta. base color again to yet seme color variation and the 60 / TANKER 06 (ne interesting part on the recovery vehicle isthe tackle at the ane end used tolift, pull and cary. The kit part was detailed using twisted copper wire and some plastic bolts and rods. did my bes to get the wiring absolutly straight and correct; ths was obwously the hardest part. \With the model eady for painting it was vided in numerous sub assemblies to make teaser during the painting and weathering stages. | sed Tamiya acrylic pants asa basecoat fr the model, Every color was made lighter since the base colors are too dark and the model ‘would also become darker after weathering. The kes arorushing lighter colors! After the basecoat vas applied we highhghted every worn painjob, Base colors were made lighter using XF-3 yellow or XF-S7 he paintob islook of a model. However some care and attention i needed not to overdo this effect and ruin your model ent we stat dar fe varish layer ary fo started weather night and day using raking grime and rst done with Va mixed a variety of colors to make different syle hippings. Chippings were applied witha (000 paintbrush and als sponge technique that results in arent realistic chippings color nique fist painting 20-30 minutes, then stat blending in ‘the colors with asi fat brush and coors thre For dust on th Africa dst effect, bo Dust was applied straight were given about 20-30 minutes drying time Tue we start working with some odor blend inthe colors. You might days to obtain a satis model slots, Summer Kutsk earth and parately and mined into diferent shades im the bottle onto the madel. The Dee they have di thinner and a at brush t 1 0 repeat this process a few ti within afew very tank realy dirty! made a mixture of pigments, water and white glue. Apply the mixture to your tank and let it dry out. Once ‘the mud is dry we applying a uniform dust coat, AK Light dust depost, over the mud areas onthe ower hil, So, ring the mua by using ‘WOuld stick to the tank earth cate dit al places K dark rd and 4K mud‘The final color to apply was AK fresh mud on afew spots to simulate the wet, fresh mud. To improve this wet fresh mud you can apply some AK wet effects as final layer. Thinner is used to blend in ll colors to avoid hard lines and give ita fui transition While ving 2 tea tank you wil tice it throws up 2 lt of earth and dit with its tracks tthe mud splatters on our model we use agin ‘Our mud mixture combined witha tf brush and a toothpick. Hf you ke you can aso use your airbrush instead of the toothpick. | prefer a toothpick ‘ince its more *controlabe”. Bear in mind to apply mud platters in a logical way, using the dection the vacks ae running as aque. Pull back ‘the hairs of your stiff brush and, when you lt it loose, wil create reals ‘mud splatters on your model, Be avare not to load your brush with to ‘much mud mixture tokeen a realistic effect! Ine soot onthe exhaust is created by test spraying Hat cool cathy item to add was a wniten text in the dus, ake often played by crews on black over the exhaust area, When dry the exhausts ‘eachother tanks, was to write small texs on dusty rears, | added a small Dutch pase "was, are finished with a coat of black pigments ‘hich means “wash me" in English, To perform this ick hand painted the text with jo acryles, na lighter shade then the base c tly onto the enamel dust. ‘The crew walks ll over the tank to reach certain places. Sometimes they do so with muddy boots. Th sllent caliber 35 footeint sts Just paint some dust col, for example AK dust and dirt deposit, onta the uber footprint and walk over your tan with creating asic footbrintsCATS / 68 steJAGDTIGER _ D.KFZ 186 Porsche Production type Dragon 1:35 $ = a. kit Tamiya offers the Henchel.verson, which Is ance up to date it but not the Boch erson CAR ALS which we feature here. The main difference between the two versio the suspensfn forsche's Jagdtiger had are = ‘suspension comparable to that of the Fer- dinand/ Elefant tank destroyers; although ‘this version was lighter and faster to pro- duce than the Henchel version only 11 were built. To bring Dragon's kit up to date some aftermarket sets ‘are necessary. This doesn’t mean the kit is that bad, it ‘actually stands the test of time pretty well. Some classic Ingredients like workable track, turned metal barrel and, a photo-etch set are enough to bring this golden oldie bang up to date. 64Aithouah isan aging kit the Dragon's ladgtiger's actualy pretty decent it Itomy needs some work and extras to bring itup to date The extras used are ‘nom Cavalier, tef 0112. 65The damaged Cavaliers zimmert Before we go over to painting parts are mostly situated at the the Jagdtige, we first wil apply front of this impressive machine coat of primer. Mr Surfacer To emphasize ths we also added 1200 diuted with Mr Hobby some dents tothe front fenders. thinner wil form a nice smooth and sturdy base to start from. For out basecoat we use AK 713 Dunkelgelb DGIl, thinned with AK 712 ‘cry thinne, We spray on several thin layers with enough drying time between each layer to build up a smooth finish, \When dry we add some White to our base color and spay the model ina cloud pattern to obtain some depth. Next we add even rore White and we spray some parts, suchas hatches, in a lighter tone for mare conta. The top parts ofthe horizontal surfaces are also sprayed lighter adhering ‘tothe Zenithal lighting technique 6 We opted to use a two tone camautlage of brown over sand. For the Te markings onthe sides are sprayed on with the help ofa template, ‘brown we used a mixture of AK718 Schokabraun with abit of AK Make sure you mask off the area around the template to avoid overspay. 713 Dunkelgeb OG. The late is used to lighten up the brown col. ‘Next the model is aver sprayed with a satin vanish to seal the paint. fe continue with a dark wash made from a mixture of AK 300 Datkellow ‘We start the weathering by adding a ight fte to blend the colors We i! ‘together AK 076 fiter for NATO tanks is perfect forthe colors use le ane St eee aol SOS ast eee 66 / TANKER 06songe chipped with jones fom Lfecoot mixture to exposeIne spare tracks are dipped stn AK's meta bucrshing flu AK 159 unt they have a dark rusty color, Next they are treated with AK's rust deposit Set rust colored pigments and ol paints to enhance the rusty look70 / TANKER 06 J STEEL CATSPOSEN UPS Worldwide Shipping BYTE CRT TU) EO ty Friendly Customer Support BNAN ode World con aie. 7 Fa gat VSI ES| EaroM nee eee aerd bu] VST Seo RCAC ES Phe APS. dob AP pis 2.) BT Ee ae pl) ‘Add: 2006,1, Toys, Models & Comics Wholesale Center, No26, Haizhu Nan Road, ‘Yuexiu District, Guangzhou, PR.China Eee) Cy Em Ou (R373 Sor RRL)> OF TECHNIQUES German woild war two Tanks ae distinguished by their design and shape, and ate very recognizable, Most of them let the factories In either the dark arey or the plain sand yellow. if you don't apply futher camouflage these colors can look rather boring and Uninteresting. How can we change that? Well by adding highlighting and bringing contrast to those colors. In the flowing steps we show you some simple but effective techniques to bring these colors to life, Please note that it's ony the first step in finishing your ‘model and actually with the steps described here we only prepare the model for futher weathering, Let's get going! {0} >1S IN PANZER GRI et start with the typical id how we cai contrast by bringing som lume tothe color ding highlights and wefects. With thes 5 we prepare the made for chipping, streaking and dust effects etc 4.10 always recommended te start by applying a coat primer AK's Primer and Mirofilrs our product 3 choice, Spray on several thin coats, and lett dry fo awhile 2. We laa the airbrush with Dunkelgrau Base AK-163), we add some thinner to be able to build up the paint in tin layers with hich we can already into create shadours by spraying mote layers in orners and edges, which ells in a slightly darke tone, Gently we built up the layers, where we want layers of paint. The key here 'sto apply numerous thin layers to build up the effec gradual 3. With the grey on, we Seal the paint with a coat 1 Satin varnish bet ep ththe nex I prefered you can also mia few drops of varnish direct into the paint achieve the sami sul 4. Now different details such as loos, acks ete are painted 5. Next we use ol color slightly darker than out details ete We thin the ail paints slighty with thin 6. The oil paints blended in witha soft fat rush moistened with Whit spin 27. The same oil paints thinned even more, Tk wash, and applied around «better 8. After the wash had died fora cough minutes it's blended in 2 3 ol paint has die ‘overnight, we move over top 2. Sepia ol paint applied d from the tube inp where we wish to produce Shadow effects 10, Just a5 before, it blended in. You already 5, we apply small che and bluish ‘il paint oll pa re blended in, bt th time with a much smaller rush soaked in wt Spirit. The tonal iferenc 13. To highlight parts ofthe model, one AL Again th oil paint i applied straight fom the tube, +14, Andi goes without aying that this aso blendec 415, Although barely visible, there isa sight ona itference in the ‘grey paint. You can keep it subtle such asin th example, or make it mor that this s actually 9 preparation before the actual westherng,© SCHOOL OF TECHNIOU 3) TRACK BURNISHING AND WE.YE Gf CTCL eS Abtetlung 502 UA WA RE ZA elaTaVaN st GO Te n etnies iy eratavetatnal= GALLERY (G) OF CATSTANKER 06 J STEEL CATS / 79RED KOVAC ae : an Sees Ee / / 80 / 1A{When did you start modelling? |ias when got my fist model as a Christmas Gift think it was the famous Santa Maria from Revell. My dad buitit, my mom put abit of paint ‘nit and had the luxury of enjoying the finished ‘model. After this point, | built dozens of small scale warships and airplanes - anything | could find at my cal toy store. As with most kids, my models were very ugh, without any cleaning up ‘or actualy painting them, Later, when Iwas probably around 7, | ound & big range of cas and tucks roughly in 148 scale from the Czech company Montisystem, They clr requie any paint or glue. This was perfect for me, asi had a ice colorful mode! builtin afew ‘moments, ths plus thei wheels were moving on ‘metal axes, so | could play with them twas only when | was 12 that | discovered the world of armour models. One of my classmates told me he built a “tank* (ich was actualy a M1102 howitzer from Ital) and the look of thismodel enchanted me. listed adecent hobby shop and bought my first tank, a Leopard 1S from Males. Because | was already faiar with plastic models, | bul it pretty quickly and very soon bought another kt, KV-1 from Tamia. Iput these two in my first dhorama with KV-1 tying to ambush the Leo, now that was a what scenario! 2.Whatis your favourite subject? ‘My one and only passion that has been tested ‘over the years remains V/35 armor | tried sculpt ing sei monsters, workable wooden models, plastic aiplanes and submarines, but always faund myself abandoning these projects IMy choice of subject vaies depending on ex ternal factors like model releases, modern con flcts etc. When war in Syia began, it was all about tanks fighting there. Then, it was WW because ofthe 100th anniversary releases from renowned companies. was always atracted to jebscute and less popular vehicles from WW2 and the Cold War era. That's probably why | hadi’ built a Tiger or Panther ye. 3.When it comes to painting and ing, which paints do you prefer ‘lls or enamels? AS with most modellers, acrylics are my H1 choice for painting basecoats and detail. But! aso ik tiling them for weathering, for exam ple dust tones, rainmarks, chipping or even mud, A asic range of oll paints from the at store is all that @ modeller needs for a decent model Therefore love working with ols, but as atime saving measure, | also use enamels regularly as they dry quicker but also open new pos sibilities 4.What is your favourite technique? Chipping. I'hilarious because afew years back there was nothing | could hate mor, the results were never satisfying. But as they ay, practice makes perfec, learned how to work with chip ping and now it's my most enjoyable technique. There's nothing better forme than slowly chip ping a model istening to an audiobook and hav Ing a cup of coffee. can spend 3 months chip ping one tank without hating mysel ‘5.When finishing a model, does it have to be ultra realistic or can you appreciate some artistic freedom? For me it starts with the construction stage which should be pretty detailed as it opens up ‘new possiblties while painting the model, Pos sibilities such as damaged fenders, buky weld seams and rough armour textures et. also lke to correct kit mistakes, so the tank looks more like the teal thing. | would almost call myselt 2 rivet counter, but from time to time, a nice (0078 build can be relaxing although I usually don't finish these projects as don't value them so much, Funny! {As forthe pantob, I never consider my models realstic. They are made to look interesting, e pecially in photos so the viewer can always find something to look at. base most effects | make (on real reference but | usually exagerrate them 5 theylook PLAUSIBLE, not REALISTIC. In a nut shell | take what | ike from real world, madiiy {and manipulate it soit looks good and put ton ‘my model. 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