WIN!

A LUXURY TWO-NIGHT
GETAWAY TO AMSTERDAM

UK EDITION // MARCH 2020 // £4.95 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

TH E

COOL
LIS2020
T RIO TO BRISBANE,
CUMBRIA TO
CAIRO — THE 20
DESTINATIONS
MAKING WAVES
THIS YEAR

+ MADRID
ETHIOPIA
SAN DIEGO

G U YA N A SRI LANKA
Going off-grid in The secrets and symbolism
the jungles of South behind Asia’s mightiest
America’s rising star elephant migration

ALSO: ABRUZZO // BERGEN // CHIANG RAI // RIGA // SÃO PAULO

 March
2020

Contents

68

68 The Cool List 102 Guyana 130 Madrid

From Pakistan to Panama, we
reveal the 20 destinations to
watch in the year ahead
90 Sri Lanka
Of all the island’s rich wildlife,
it’s the majestic elephant that
truly defines the country
Lush jungles and vast waterways
await in one of South America’s
lesser-explored wildernesses
114 Ethiopia
The remote rock churches of
the Tigray region are a dramatic
testament to faith and devotion
Be it colourful cocktails or
flamenco ’til dawn, nowhere does
nightlife like the Spanish capital Issue 83
140 Riga
Centuries of foreign influence
have left their mark on the fast- Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
changing Latvian capital IMAGE: Getty

March 2020 3
 March
2020

Contents

19 44 56

SMART TRAVELLER 30 Like a local 60 Sleep: São Paulo

11 Snapshot
A little horse play in Arizona
13 Editors’ picks
The latest highlights in travel
14 Big picture
Coming together in Antarctica
16 Face the music
Hitting all the right notes in Vienna
19 One giant step
The good news for China’s giant pandas
21 Drink to that
Raising a glass to the Prohibition era
23 Food
A feast of flavour in Lebanon
Cultural highlights of Sofia
33 Stay at home
A breath of fresh air in Exmoor
35 The word
Stanfords’ standout travel books
37 Competition
Win a Eurostar getaway to Amsterdam
39 Author series
Ingrid Persaud on Trinidad
40 Q&A with an adventurer
We meet explorer Elise Wortley
42 Online
Highlights from the website
INSIDER
The ultimate hotel guide to the Brazilian city
TRAVEL GEEKS
150 Travel Geeks
The experts’ travel manual
160 Wildlife conservation
Saving Italy’s wild bears in Abruzzo
GET IN TOUCH
174 Subscriptions
Enjoy our latest special offer
177 Inbox
Your letters, emails and tweets
178 Your pictures
This month’s best travel photos

25 On the trail 44 Weekender: Bergen DON’T MISS

Road-tripping along Uruguay’s coast The Scandi city where nature meets style
172 Events
27 Rooms 50 Eat: Chiang Rai Dates for your diary this month
Where to bed down in Limassol Tasting our way around Thailand’s north

28 Family 56 Neighbourhood: San Diego

Discovering a galaxy (not so) far, far away Hippy ’hoods and beachy hangouts in SoCal

Reader offer see p.162 for our latest partnership with

4 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Contributors
Julia Buckley
I used to think San Diego lacked the
depth of other Californian cities, but
that was before I made local friends who
welcomed me into their neighbourhoods.
It’s effectively a city of villages — each
beguilingly different. SAN DIEGO P.56
Adrian Phillips
Sri Lanka is one of the most welcoming,
exciting and varied destinations on the
planet. Hot air balloon over paddy fields,
walk along ancient temple trails, swim with
blue whales, go stuff yourself with delicious
food. Just don’t not go. SRI LANKA P.90
National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Editorial Director: Maria Pieri
Editor: Pat Riddell
Deputy Editor: Stephanie Cavagnaro
(maternity leave)
Acting Deputy Editor: Amelia Duggan
Executive Editor: Glen Mutel
Associate Editors:
Sarah Barrell, Nicola Trup
Assistant Editors:
Connor McGovern, Tamsin Wressell
Project Editor: Zane Henry
Online Editor: Josephine Price
Assistant Online Editor: Nora Wallaya
Content Editor:
Charlotte Wigram-Evans
Head of Sub Editors: Hannah Doherty
Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Ben Murray
Operations Manager:
Seamus McDermott
Head of Events: Natalie Jackson
Design Studio Manager:
Caroline Guest
Art Editor: Becky Redman
Designers: Lauren Gamp,
Kelly McKenna, Dean Reynolds
Production Manager: Daniel Gregory
Special Projects Consultant:
Matthew Midworth
Head of Partnerships: William Allen
Partnerships Manager, Events:
Daniel McGeehan
Sales & Partnerships Team:
James Bendien, Oliver Deis, Grace
Diamond, Bob Jalaf, Kevin Killen,
Gabriela Milkova, Adam Phillips,
Mark Salmon, Euan Whitbourn
Head of National Geographic
Traveller — The Collection:
Danny Pegg
APL Media
Editorial Manager:
Jo Fletcher-Cross
Contributing Editors:
Sam Lewis, Farida Zeynalova
Project Editor:
Mattie Lacey-Davidson
Editorial Admin Assistant:
Angela Locatelli
Art Editor:
Lauren Atkinson-Smith
Designer: Charlotte Alldis
Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi
Production Controllers:
Karl Martins, Joe Mendonca,
Drew O’Neill, Lisa Poston,
Anthony Wright
Head of Creative Solutions:
Chris Debbinney-Wright
APL Business Development Team:
Chris Dalton, Adam Fox, Cynthia
Lawrence, Sinead McManus
Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens
Managing Director:
Matthew Jackson
Sales Director: Alex Vignali
Office Manager: Hayley Rabin
Sales Administrator: Melissa Jurado
Head of Finance: Ryan McShaw
Credit Manager: Craig Chappell
Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover
Accounts Assistants:
Jana Abraham, Stefano Pica

National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited,

Jamie Lafferty
Despite being South America’s only
English-speaking country and having one
of the world’s great waterfalls, Guyana
receives remarkably few tourists. Visiting
its unspoilt interior felt like being privy to a
marvellous secret. GUYANA P.102
Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL
nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. editorial@natgeotraveller.co.uk
Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. sales@natgeotraveller.co.uk
Subscriptions T: 01293 312 166. natgeotraveller@subscriptionhelpline.co.uk
National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National
Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info. Their entire
contents are protected by copyright 2020 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without
prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine,
but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are
advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in
the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any
liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers.
National Geographic Partners International Publishing

Chairman: Gary E. Knell Senior Vice President: Yulia P. Boyle

Connor McGovern
You’ll never fully enjoy the Spanish capital
unless you seize the night — this is a
nocturnal city that lives by the mantra of
‘work hard, play harder’. But wherever the
night takes you, don’t forget to round it off
with a plate of churros. MADRID P.130
Editorial Director: Susan Goldberg Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr
General Manager, NG Media: Senior Manager: Rossana Stella
David Miller
Headquarters
International Editions
1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC
Editorial Director: Amy Kolczak 20036-4688, USA
Deputy Editorial Director: Copyright © 2020 National Geographic
Darren Smith Partners, LLC.
Editorial Specialist: Leigh Mitnick
Translation Manager: Beata Nas
Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang;
CZECHIA Ondrej Formanek; FRANCE
Gabriel Joseph-Dezaize; GERMANY
Werner Siefer; HUNGARY Tamas
Vitray; INDIA Lakshmi Sankaran;
ISRAEL Daphne Raz; ITALY Marco
Cattaneo; SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon
Lim; LATIN AMERICA Claudia Muzzi;
NETHERLANDS Arno Kantelberg;
POLAND Agnieszka Franus; ROMANIA
Catalin Gruia; RUSSIA Ivan Vasin; SPAIN
Josan Ruiz; TURKEY Nesibe Bat

David Whitley
I first visited Riga in 2007 when the city was Copyright © 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National
Geographic Traveler and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of
in its stag do-magnet prime. Returning a National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.
decade later, the city is a different beast.
The beers may not be as cheap any more
but its character traits are celebrated rather
than buried in a boozy haze. RIGA P.140

6 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
EXPLOREMINNESOTA.COM H O N E YM O O N B L U F F | GRAND MARAIS, M I N N E S O TA
 HIGHLIGHTS

Editor’s
letter Photography Competition 2020

W
Calling all travel photographers — time’s
elcome to the new decade. By now you’ve running out to submit your shots. Entries
probably brushed off January’s lethargy, and close on 23 February (p.168)
are fixing your sights on the year ahead. If so,
we’ve got just the thing: our annual Cool List.
We’ve selected the 20 places you should have on your
travel horizon. From Cumbria and Cairo to Panama and FOOD FESTIVAL
18-19 JULY 2020
Pakistan, we’ve scoured the globe for 2020’s most IN ASSOCIATION WITH XXXXXXX |

interesting destinations. From hiking trails and emerging

culinary hubs to luxury lodges and landmark attractions, National Geographic Traveller
Food Festival 2020
it’s a list that gives you plenty of inspiration close to Love food and travel? Our festival returns this
home, as well as further afield. summer, so get your tickets today (p.170)
National Geographic Traveller has always championed
responsible, sustainable, authentic travel. Considering
how, where and why we choose to travel is an ethos now
firmly in the public consciousness. Exploring the world
this decade means doing so responsibly and with
purpose: tour slowly, spend locally and show support.
Australia, Puerto Rico, Egypt and Lebanon — all in need Events
From a taste of Italy to Japan’s natural
of our ongoing support — make our list for this reason.
wonders, our Travel Geeks sessions are here to
Travel can be a powerful force for good, offering an inspire your next adventure (p.172)
economic lifeline, and a voice, for beleaguered
communities. It can change lives, including yours. We
hope this year’s Cool List helps you enjoy the journey. SUBSCRIBE TODAY
PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR

@patriddell
@patriddell

AWARD-WINNING NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER

British Travel Awards 2019: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • BGTW Awards 2019: Best Travel Writer
• BGTW Awards 2019: Best Europe Travel Feature • BGTW Awards 2019: Best Transport Feature
• Travel Media Awards 2019: Young Writer of the Year • Travel Media Awards 2019: Specialist Travel
Writer of the Year • AITO Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2019 Get three issues for just £5!
• French Travel Media Awards 2019: Best Art & Culture Feature • BGTW Awards 2018: Best Travel natgeotraveller.
Writer • Travel Media Awards 2018: Consumer Writer of the Year • Visit USA Media Awards 2018: Best imbmsubscriptions.com/NGT5
Consumer Travel Magazine Feature • BSME Talent Awards 2018: Best Designer • British Travel Awards or call 01293 312166 and quote ‘NGT5’
2017: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • BGTW Awards 2017: Best Travel Writer • BGTW Awards
2016: Best Travel Writer • British Travel Awards 2015: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine

SEARCH FOR NATGEOTRAVELUK ON FACEBOOK TWITTER INSTAGRAM PINTEREST

8 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Since 1974, Exodus Travels have been leading the way when it comes to adventure travel.
Offering over 500 itineraries across 90 different countries, our active adventures span all seven
continents. From exhilarating treks towards turquoise glaciers to fat biking over sand dunes and
dogsledding through frozen forests, our trips are bound to ignite your spirit of adventure.

FIND YOUR ADVENTURE ONLINE AT

EXODUS.CO.UK OR CALL 020 8131 6447
 SMART TRAVELLER
What’s new // Food // On the trail // Rooms // Like a local // Family // Stay at home // The word

SNAPSHOT

Joe Valdez, Arizona

Having grown up in the arid, desolate
landscapes east of Tucson, Joe says horses
have played a big role in his life.
“We rode horses to school most of the
time, and some of our neighbours still used
horses to plough their fields,” he says. He had
his first taste of the cowboy lifestyle at the
age of nine, when a “tough, old cowman”
who lived at a nearby ranch was missing one
of his cow ponies and requested Joe’s help.
In 1977, Joe joined the Tanque Verde
Ranch team; he’s been teaching western
riding and mountain trail riding ever since.
Even now, although semi-retired, he can be
found working with the riding programme
— and has enough stories to fill several
books. LUCY HEWETT // PHOTOGRAPHER

lucyhewett.com
@lucyhewett

March 2020 11
 SMART TRAVELLER

Edito�s'
Find out
where’s on the
National Geographic
Traveller team’s
wishlist this year

�icks
— head online to
read more

We’ve picked out some

of the latest highlights
from the world of travel

A room of one’s own

Opening this spring to coincide with the centenary
of women’s suffrage in the US, Washington DC’s
new Hotel Zena claims to be the world’s first hotel
launched with the goal of championing female
empowerment. Expect ‘thought-provoking design
elements’ and female-focused events. All guests
are invited to be ‘part of the story’ as politics
continues to discuss inclusivity and equality.
viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/zena AMELIA DUGGAN

IN NUMBERS FOR THE HISTORY BOOKS

TRAVELLERS’ Leicestershire County Council’s

TRENDS Record Office will become
home to Thomas Cook’s entire
According to Skyscanner’s Global
Travel Trends 2020 report
archive. The vast collection
includes a wealth of timetables,
39%
more interest in travelling to Argentina
souvenirs and posters
belonging to the company, and
91% will eventually be available to
rise in interest in
visiting the Caribbean
the public. CONNOR MCGOVERN
island of St Maarten

32%
more travellers are searching for,
and booking trips to, Ghana
National park news
IMAGES: ALAMY, VICEROY HOTELS & RESORTS

26%
of users in Turkey booked more
efficient flights with Skyscanner’s
‘Greener Choice’ label
INDIANA
Stretching for 300 miles along
Lake Michigan, Indiana Dunes
National Park is dominated by
FRANCE
Parc National de Forêts de
Champagne et Bourgogne is
France’s newest national park.
MALAWI
In one of the biggest relocation
initiatives of its kind, 17 of the
world’s 5,500 black rhinos were

100 million
250-ft-high dunes of glacial Along with 1,250 miles of hiking transferred from KwaZulu-Natal
sand. Visitors can take on the trails, its cultural sites include in South Africa and released into
‘three dune challenge’ and the Musée du Pays Châtillonnais Malawi’s Liwonde National Park.
people use the travel search
explore forests of white pine. and scores of vineyards. forets- africanparks.org
engine every month
dunesnationalpark.org champagne-bourgogne.fr SARAH BARRELL
skyscanner.net
NORA WALLAYA

March 2020 13
SMART TRAVELLER

BIG PICTURE

Ekström Ice Shelf,

Antarctica
More than 5,000 male emperor penguins
huddle against the wind of Antarctica’s Atka
Bay, in front of the Ekström Ice Shelf. Each
paired male has a single egg tucked under a
fold of skin. The females give their eggs to
their mates to incubate and then head for the
sea, where they feed for up to three months.
It was a calm day, but the cold felt like needles
in my fingertips as the temperatures fell below
-40C. From mid-May until mid-July, the sun
doesn’t rise above the horizon, but at the
end of winter, when this picture was taken,
the twilight, combined with modern camera
technology and a longish exposure, offered
the chance to capture such a bright image.
STEFAN CHRISTMANN // PHOTOGRAPHER

nature-in-focus.de/en
@christmannphoto

One of the winners of the Wildlife Photographer

of the Year 2019 competition. The exhibition at
the Natural History Museum, London runs until
31 May 2020. nhm.ac.uk

14 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
SMART TRAVELLER

March 2020 15
SMART TRAVELLER
Face the music
VIENNA
The Austrian capital is hitting all the right notes as it
gears up for a year of tuneful celebrations
From Beethoven and Brahms to Mozart and
Mahler, Vienna’s musical pedigree stretches
back centuries — and in 2020, the Austrian
capital begins its self-declared year as the
Capital of Music, tying in with the 250th
anniversary of former resident Ludwig van
Beethoven’s birth.
The SUMMER NIGHT CONCERT by the
Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra gets top
billing among the musical highlights
on offer. Held in the landscaped park of
Schönbrunn Palace, and twinned with a
show of fireworks and light effects, this is
the final word in stirring classic concerts.
Entry is on a first-come, first-served basis.
The finer details of this year’s programme
— which is forecast to attract upwards
of 100,000 attendees — have yet to be
announced, but visitors can expect an
exceptional performance in a stellar setting.
Meanwhile, the must-see retrospective of
the year, BEETHOVEN MOVES, is dedicated to
16 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
the life and work of the iconic virtuoso.
On display at the Kunsthistorisches
Museum, it promises to be an insightful
look at the pioneering German composer,
showcasing artworks greatly influenced by
his music, with his symphonies, concertos
and sonatas providing the atmospheric
soundtrack. There will also be paintings
by Caspar David Friedrich, sketchbooks by
William Turner, graphic works by Francisco
de Goya and sculptures by Auguste Rodin,
plus much more.
But it’s not all classical — the city’s
modern music scene is shaping up too, and
its new-wave musicians will be tearing it
up during a summer of free festivals and
concerts. A highlight is the METASTADT OPEN
AIR 2020 — a buzzing, four-day party (14-18
July) in a former industrial building turned
events space. German rapper Sido is on the
bill, alongside British indie band The Kooks.
musik2020.wien.info HELEN WARWICK
TAKE THREE…
MUSICAL MILESTONES
LOS ANGELES
Primavera Sound, the festival that
started in Barcelona then spread
to Porto, is heading out on a grand
US adventure this year, landing in
California for its 20th anniversary. The
stateside debut will spring up in LA’s
State Historic Park, with performances
by big hitters in the indie world and
smaller cult favourites (Bjork, Arctic
Monkeys and Radiohead have headlined
in previous years). 19-20 September.
primaverasound.com
SALZBURG
Turning 100 in 2020, the Salzburg
Festival is a whirl of evening gowns,
aperitifs and open-air performances.
This event has gained renown with its
line-up of performances by classical
musical giants; and its centennial will be
celebrated with 200 performances of
operas, concerts and plays over 44 days,
including music by Mozart, Strauss (one
of the festival’s founders) and modern-
day greats such as Luigi Nono. 20 July-
31 August. salzburgerfestspiele.at
IMAGES: © WIENTOURISMUS/PETER RIGAUD; ALAMY
CROATIA
Hideout Festival will be celebrating its
10th year in 2020, but while the shindig
on Croatia’s Zrce Beach might still be
something of a spring chicken compared
to the likes of Glastonbury (which turns
50 this summer), it’s carved out a name
as one of Europe’s greatest, putting
on thrilling dance acts to pumped-up
partygoers. There are beach parties,
boat parties and secret after-parties
— all with the glittering Adriatic just
metres away. hideoutfestival.com
A t rue lo cal ex per ience
fo r in spired ex press ives.

andazviennaambelvedere.com
Imagine...
watching a cheetah survey her territory

WHY IMAGINE: REQUEST A

Award-winning holidays FREE GUIDEBOOK
Excellent customer feedback www.imaginetravel.com/guidebook
Handy travel app
Price promise
Tailor-made travel designed by experts 24/7 support
020 3131 5034 ATOL and ABTOT protected

Pandas
ONE GIANT STEP
A supersize national park is set to open later this
year in central China in an effort to boost the
country’s giant panda population
After declining in the 1970s, panda
numbers are gradually on the rise
again. Once widespread throughout
southeastern China, diminishing
habitat, natural disasters such as the 2011
Sichuan earthquake, and the species’
reluctance to breed saw the black-and-
white bear become a conservation icon.
Thanks to a growing network of
reserves and community conservation
initiatives, pandas are no longer
endangered, but arguably the biggest
hope for their long-term survival is
the Giant Panda National Park, set to
IMAGES: GETTY
open in the coming months. Spanning
around 10,500sq miles and linking
several existing panda habitats, the park
will form a wildlife corridor in central
SMART TRAVELLER
DID YOU KNOW?
Panda bears are
actually omnivorous.
Although they’ll
occasionally eat small
animals and fish,
bamboo makes up
99% of their diet
IN NUMBERS
PANDA
CONSERVATION
1,864
giant pandas in the wild, according to a
Sichuan Province. Bordering the Tibetan 2014 Chinese government survey
Plateau, Sichuan has long enticed
travellers — thanks in no small part to
the fact it’s home to more than 80% of
1,114
giant pandas living in the wild
the world’s wild pandas. in the 1980s
The park is a bold step aims to
preserve the country’s unique natural
wonders and encourage more wildlife 67
number of panda reserves in China
tourism. Supporting rather than
17%
displacing local communities has
been a challenge for the US during the
formation of its national parks system, rise in the number of wild
and it remains to be seen if China will giant pandas, 2003-2013
14
be able to strike a sustainable balance.
But for the pandas at least, it heralds
a promising boost for conservation hours each day a panda needs
in a region more used to rapid to spend eating fresh bamboo
modernisation. SARAH BARRELL wwf.panda.org
March 2020 19
A POLAR ADVENTURE IN
TROMSØ, SCANDINAVIA:
BE AN ARCTIC EXPLORER. BOOK YOUR ARCTIC
EXPERIENCE — WE OFFER ARCTIC EXCLUSIVITY

Arctic Expedition is a tour operator and activity supplier based

in Tromsø, in Northern Norway. We specialise in water-based
trips (including fjord cruises, whale safaris, chasing the Northern
Lights, rigid inflatable boat trips in Tromsø, sightseeing by boat in
Lofoten and expedition cruises), as well as land activities such as 15%
discount
snowmobiling, dog sledding and the Aurora basecamp in Tromsø. Send email to
info@arcticexpedition.no
With our fleet from Arctic Explorer, we sail between Tromsø, with #AEX001 code
and travel cheaper
Lofoten and Alta. Our Expedition Cruises in the Northern Norway (only for winter
region last for between four and five days and include all meals boat trips)

and activities, such as whale-watching (between November and

January), Northern Lights chasing, onboard lectures and visits to
Norwegian villages.
TROMSØ
Our fleet can also be chartered, from the smallest rigid inflatable FJORD CRUISE & WHALE SAFARI
Approx. £116 – adult price (from Oct to Jan)
boats (which hold 12 people each) to our biggest ship, Quest
(which holds a maximum of 60 people sleeping). We can provide FJORD CRUISE & WHALE SAFARI WITH RIGID
INFLATABLE BOAT OPTION
you with crew, guides and tailor-made details as requested. Approx. £166 - adult price (from Oct to Jan)

FJORD CRUISE & CULTURAL HERITAGE

Approx. £129 – adult price (all year round)

NORTHERN LIGHTS CRUISE

Approx. £83 – adult price (from Oct to middle April)

DOG SLEDDING
Approx. £158 – adult price (from Dec to March)

SNOWMOBILE
Approx. £154 – adult price (from Dec to April)

AURORA BASECAMP
Approx. £129 – adult price (from Dec to March)

MIDNIGHT SUN BY RIGID INFLATABLE BOAT

Approx. £100 – adult price (from middle May to July)

FJORD ADVENTURE BY RIGID INFLATABLE BOAT

Approx. £63 – adult price
(from middle May to middle Aug)

LOFOTEN
SIGHTSEEING BY BOAT
Approx. £83 – adult price
(from middle May to middle Sept)

HIKE & BIKE BY BOAT

From £1978 pp
(7 days, all included, July 2020 – dates coming soon)

www.arcticexpedition.no
E: info@arcticexpedition.no

/arcticexpedition.no
 SMART TRAVELLER

Prohibition
DRINK TO THAT
A century after history’s biggest The tour The drink
Synonymous with Al Capone’s If there’s one drink to define
booze ban, there are still plenty dirty dealings, Chicago was a the decade, there’s a case for
of ways to discover the illicit hub of impropriety in the 1920s. whisky. It was the only drink
allure of the Prohibition era Vestiges of its Prohibition days the government allowed at the
are everywhere — set off on time, prescribed for ‘medicinal
Raise a glass — this year marks 100 years since a Prohibition Gangster Tour purposes’. Try one on at the slick,
Prohibition, when the United States enforced a nation- with author and historian John 21 Club, a former 1920s speakeasy
wide ban on the production and sale of alcohol in an Binder. choosechicago.com in Manhattan. 21club.com
attempt to steer the population back to Protestant
values. America’s political and moral landscapes were The bar The museum
entirely reshaped by those 13 years of state-enforced Head to The Back Room in New ‘Good behaviour rarely makes
abstinence and while Prohibition might have ultimately York, one of only two original history’ says the American
failed to curtail nationwide drinking, it built cultural speakeasies in the city still Prohibition Museum in
pillars that endure today: from not-so-temperate tales around today, and follow in Savannah, Georgia. Call in
that inspired novels and films to the secret world of the footsteps of mobsters and at the museum’s upscale
speakeasies. And today, a century on from the dry old molls who’d gather here for speakeasy for cocktail classes
days, travellers can find no shortage of spots to soak up so-called ‘business meetings’. to make your own concoctions.
the era’s long-lasting legacy. CONNOR MCGOVERN backroomnyc.com americanprohibitionmuseum.com

PROHIBITION: A TIMELINE

1869 1881 1919 1920s 1933

IMAGES: GETTY

The National Prohibition Party Kansas becomes the first state The manufacture, transport Prohibition begins and a black After waning support,
is founded, promoting various to enshrine Prohibition as part and sale of ‘intoxicating market around illegal booze Prohibition is officially repealed
social reforms of its constitution liquors’ in the US is prohibited (known as ‘moonshine’) booms with the 21st Amendment

March 2020 21
 A Prague Experience
Newly renovated Hilton Prague Old Town - a relaxed and intimate inner-city escape;
the picturesque beauty of Prague reflected in our Art Deco design, the city’s lifestyle
and charisma embodied in our team, where their generosity ensures a seamless stay.

Perfectly located to appreciate the best of historic and contemporary Prague; whether
you have one hour or one week, your stay will be alive with new experiences.

to our General Manager’s handpicked wines - even within the hotel we’ll connect you to
a Prague richer in culture than you realised.

Taking pride in our service, creating experiences with real charm.

Get the lowest price when you book direct* at prague-oldtown.hilton.com

or call +420 221 822 100.

*Subject to availability. Terms & conditions apply. Visit hilton.com for further details.

Lebanon A TASTE OF
John Gregory-Smith shares his pick of the country’s best
dishes, restaurants and culinary experiences
When I was writing Saffron in the Souks,
I would talk to people back home in the
UK and ask what they thought about
IMAGES: NASSIMA ROTHACKER; ALAN KEOHANE
Lebanon. Everyone was always enthusiastic
about the food; they knew they loved
hummus, tabouleh, falafel and shawarma.
But when I asked about the country itself,
no one knew anything other than war.
And, of course, this can’t be overlooked; it
hangs over everything. But there’s so much
more to Lebanon. It’s truly beautiful, with
landscapes unlike anywhere else and food
that’s simply divine.
On my first visit to Tripoli, Lebanon’s
second-largest city, I started off in El Mina,
SMART TRAVELLER
JOHN’S TOP THREE
BEIRUT RESTAURANTS
TAWLET
The best home-style food in
Beirut. Each day, a different cook
takes the helm and prepares
regional specialties from
their hometown.
WHAT TO ORDER: Kibbeh, a mix of
ground lamb and bulgur served
raw or cooked. It’s one of the
national dishes of Lebanon.
soukeltayeb.com/tawlet
MAYRIG
A smart restaurant dishing up
refined Armenian food. The
exquisite garden is perfect for a
decadent dinner.
WHAT TO ORDER: Mante, little lamb
dumplings that are baked until
crisp, then served with garlicky
JOHN yogurt and rich tomato sauce.
GREGORY- mayrig-restaurant.business.site
SMITH is a chef,
writer and presenter
BARON
specialising in Middle
The menu here swings between
Eastern and North
African cuisine.
Eastern Mediterranean and Asian.
It’s all shared plates, so choose
several and tuck in.
WHAT TO ORDER: The roasted
halloumi is delicious and the
charred octopus with fragrant
tomato confit is perfection.
tastykitchens.com/baron
the oldest part of town. At the buzzing fish
market, plastic tables groaned under the MUST-TRY
weight of shimmering octopuses, huge INGREDIENT
king prawns and anchovies that glistened
like silver. I walked around to the harbour Za’atar is a fragrant
and ate ashta (clotted cream) ice cream,
watching the boats bob up and down on
herb that grows all
the sea. Come afternoon, I sought shade in over Lebanon. It has
the souk and feasted on bowls of hummus a strong herbaceous
and tart pickles. As I wound my way
through alleyways lined with piles of fresh taste, with a slight
fruit, vegetables, herbs and spices, I was citrussy tone. It’s used
utterly enchanted.
An edited extract from Saffron in the
in fattoush salads and
Souks, published by Kyle Books (RRP: £25). rich lamb stews.
March 2020 23

��uguay
ON THE TRAIL
A scenic road trip along Uruguay’s pretty coastline offers up
a wealth of experiences, from wine-tasting to beachside yoga
Words: Angela Locatelli
1 7
1 CARMELO
This rustic town sits in the
heart of Uruguay’s wine region.
Visit the Bodega Familia Irurtia
winery, which doubles as a
museum, or Narbona Wine
Lodge, where wine-lovers can
spend the night in one of five
luxury suites. Be sure to sample
tannat — a punchy red made with
the country’s signature grape.
2 MONTEVIDEO
Uruguay’s capital is a must-see
on any trip along the coast. It’s
ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE
home to museums, sweeping
beaches and quaint squares,
as well as the converted 19th-
century Mercado del Puerto
market. It’s also a bustling
gastronomic centre, with
numerous restaurants serving
traditional Uruguayan fare.
2 3
3 PUNTA DEL ESTE
A resort for the rich and famous,
this is Uruguay’s answer to
Miami, complete with swish
hotels, designer boutiques,
golf courses and a sparkling
yacht marina. Pay a visit to the
whimsically designed Casapueblo
Museum-Studio to learn more
about the life and work of artist
Carlos Páez Vilaró, then spend
an afternoon people-watching on
one of the town’s beaches — and
perhaps admiring the giant Hand
in the Sand sculpture at Playa
Brava. Come evening, head to the
waterfront Moby Dick pub for live
music or dance the night away at
one of the city’s glitzy clubs.
4
4 JOSÉ IGNACIO
Welcome to Uruguay’s trendiest
beach resort, where fishermen’s
huts sit beside exclusive cottages.
Despite a lively social scene,
this former pirates’ hideaway
maintains a relaxed atmosphere;
unwind with a spot of yoga at
The Shack, take a walk to the
lighthouse or dine at the famous
Parador La Huella restaurant.
5 LA PALOMA
Nature-lovers should stop off
at this protected ecological
reserve for some of the region’s
best wildlife-watching. Running
from the verdant inland hills to
the coast, La Paloma is a haven
for birdwatchers: 200-plus bird
species call this park home,
including storks, black-necked
swans and Chilean flamingos.
SMART TRAVELLER
6 CABO POLONIO
Located in a national park, this
fishing village is only accessible
via four-wheel-drive vehicle.
With no paved streets, running
water or electricity, visiting here
is like a step back in time. Get
ready to take it slow: ditch the
technology, cook by candlelight
and keep an eye out for the
sea lions that visit the shores.
7 PUNTA DEL DIABLO
It’s all about the beach at this laid-
back spot. Reliable waves mean
the hippy village is a haven for
surfers, while the vast stretches of
sand are perfect for horse-riding.
As darkness falls, make a beeline
for the Paseo de los Artesanos
promenade, where artisans
sell everything from wooden
sculptures to blown glass.
March 2020 25
 SMART TRAVELLER

Limassol
WHERE TO STAY
2 AMARA
Restaurants from Nobu Matsuhisa, Giorgio
Locatelli and Giorgos Papaioannou are just
the start at the ridiculously luxurious Amara,
which opened in June last year. As for the
rooms, they’re the biggest entry-level digs in
Limassol, all overlook the Med and are split
into adults-only and family wings. From £215.
amarahotel.com

3 FOUR SEASONS HOTEL

It’s not part of the Four Seasons chain,
but it could be: plush, modern rooms with
floor-to-ceiling windows (pick one pointing
towards the sea), five restaurants including
the seafood-heavy Vivaldi, plus a swish
Shiseido Spa. Going strong since 1993, it sits
on the beach east of Limassol. From £184.
fourseasons.com.cy

4 THE LIBRARY
This adults-only hotel has a suitably cosy
library and media room, while rooms are
named after writers and poets. Don’t be fooled
by its wellness ‘resort’ label — it has a mere 11
rooms (decor is smart rustic, with luxurious
marble bathrooms) and is in Kalavasos, a
hilly medieval village just outside Limassol.
From £69. libraryhotelcyprus.com
JULIA BUCKLEY

The Cypriot city on the island’s south

coast is shaping up to be one of the
most luxurious getaways in the Med

1 PARKLANE
Harrods Interiors designed this resort and its posh
ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, B&B, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

pedigree nets you suitably plush digs: beds cocooned by

curved wooden headboards, cream carpets matching the
embossed walls, and understated mid-century furniture.
Book a room with a sea view and you’ll have the Med
shimmering through the floor-to-ceiling windows, too.
Limassol is seeing an upmarket resurgence, and
Parklane, which opened in March last year, is at the
forefront. Cyprus hasn’t seen anything quite like this
before: a 274-room resort just outside Limassol itself,
which manages to offer all you could dream of in your
typical Cypriot resort, then bumps it up a tad. It’s part of
Marriott’s Luxury Collection, which means standards are
sumptuously high. The premises are filled with modern
art, from the lobby with its local limestone sculptures and
1,050-piece chandelier to the representations of Aphrodite
in the ocean-themed spa.
The beach is relatively small for the resort size but then
again, who needs the beach when you have four pools
to choose from? Each serves a different clientele: one is
seawater, one adults-only, one indoor and one for all. The
same goes for the rooms — there are sections of adults-
only and family-sized suites. From £144. marriott.co.uk

March 2020 27
SMART TRAVELLER

FAMILY

�each fo�
the sta�s
The Force has never been stronger,
and a new stateside offering is taking
family travel to starry new heights
DID YOU KNOW?
Whatever the verdict on Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker, Creator George Lucas
the most recent instalment in the saga, fans can now originally envisaged
the role of Yoda being
escape to a galaxy not so far, far away at Star Wars:
played by a monkey
Galaxy’s Edge — a state-of-the art recreation of the planet
wearing a mask and
Batuu at both Walt Disney World Orlando and Disney’s using a cane
Hollywood Studios in California.
It’s hard not to be blown away by these parks, which
each comprise two major rides along with various
themed restaurants and shops. Just the sight of the
life-size replica of the Millennium Falcon will elicit
gasps from parents and kids alike, while STAR WARS:
MILLENNIUM FALCON — SMUGGLER’S RUN only adds to the
sense of wonder. In this interactive virtual-reality ride,
visitors pilot the fabled YT-1300 Corellian light freighter
through space. On entering the cockpit, each rider is
assigned a role — pilot, engineer or gunner — and the
ride lasts between six to 12 minutes, depending on your
combined skills.
Meanwhile, STAR WARS: RISE OF THE RESISTANCE is
like nothing else. Billed as a ‘dark ride’, it’s basically
four mini-rides and a piece of theatre combined, with
holographic or video appearances by Rey, Finn, Kylo Ren
and other famous faces from the film along the way. It’s a
full-blown, full-throttle adventure, where even the queue
is part of the fun.
But it’s not just about the rides. Galactic Starcruiser, the
Star Wars-themed hotel at Florida’s Walt Disney World
Resort is set to welcome galaxy-hopping guests from 2021.
There will be droid staff, lightsaber training, duels, and
even a spacecraft-like pod-shuttle to the parks.
Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge is just as impressive when
it comes to immersive detailing, too: bins are styled to
look like droids, concrete is marked with R2-D2’s tracks,
Stormtroopers patrol the park, signs are in the alien
IMAGES: GETTY

Aurebesh language, and food and drink is straight from

the Star Wars universe — blue milk and Endorian tip-yip
(chicken, mash and gravy) are some of the highlights.
disneyworld.disney.go.com RHONDA CARRIER

28 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 #kro
#kro nenho
fm
#gra nenhof omen
ndh pon ts
@gr o telk tresin
ron
and
hote enh a
lkro of
f b.c n enh
om/ of
kron
enh
of

inspiring skiing fun in winter paradise

Book your perfect skiing holiday in the heart of the Swiss Alps at Grand Hotel Kronenhof
and enjoy the 3 magnificent skiing areas of Corvatsch, Diavolezza / Lagalb and Corviglia with
over 350 km of pristine slopes and picturesque cross-country skiing trails in the Engadine.

Experience the much-lauded blending of outdoor fun, relaxation and a one-of-a-kind Neo-Baroque
infrastructure, combining state-of-the-art comforts of one of the world’s premier luxury and wellness
establishments and charm from a bygone age. Benefit from our Hotel Ski Pass for only CHF 45 per
person/ day, bookable from the first day, and many more perks to make the most of your holiday.

kronenhof spa skiing at its very best

Grand Hotel Kronenhof · 7504 Pontresina / St. Moritz · Switzerland

T +41 81 830 30 30 · info@kronenhof.com · www.kronenhof.com
SMART TRAVELLER
Sofia
LIKE A LOCAL
The Bulgarian capital
is packed with cultural
experiences, from artists
collectives and dance
performances to grand
nights at the opera
30 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Modern marvels
Sofia offers no shortage of grand historic
buildings — the Bulgarian Orthodox
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral being a
particular highlight with its striking
Byzantine architecture and sage-green
domes. But look beyond the city’s classical
landmarks and you’ll find a blossoming
modern arts scene that’s worth seeking out.
High on any art lover’s list should
be SWIMMING POOL , a city-centre arts
space located on a rooftop with an empty
1930s pool. The calendar here is diverse:
exhibitions, performances, screenings
and events are held here, with a rolling
programme of work including discussions
and talks in this very cool space.
swimmingpoolprojects.org
For art with a heart, check out THE
FRIDGE, which supports young artists and
encourages participation in the arts. Works
and performances include contemporary
dance, experimental music, film screenings
and workshops. thefridgelab.com
There’s also AETHER — this independent,
experimental space was founded in 2016
with the intention of engaging local and
international artists in collective projects.
For those interested in movements like
microsociety and how art and history
can shape our ideas, this is a must-visit.
aethersofia.wixsite.com/artspace
THE INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART is
just outside the city centre on the first floor
of a residential house and well worth heading
out of town for. It’s a vibrant and fun place
to visit, with a clutch of artists’ studios, plus
exhibition space with work from upcoming
and prominent Bulgarian artists. ica-sofia.org
For something a little different, WATER
TOWER ART RESIDENCY isn’t exactly a gallery,
but an annual international event that
uses abandoned buildings throughout the
city, aiming to draw public attention to
the immediate environment. It’s run by an
artist collective, with a programme of public
events. Dates for this year’s events are yet to
be announced. watertowerartfest.com

Show time
Be sure to catch a performance at the IVAN
VAZOV NATIONAL THEATRE , one of the most
important landmarks in Sofia, located by the
beautiful City Garden. Productions at the
main theatre range from Shakespeare and
modern plays to ballet. Performances are
mostly in Bulgarian, but there are occasional
English-language nights. nationaltheatre.bg
THE NATIONAL PALACE OF CULTURE ,
meanwhile, is a huge Communist-era
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ALAMY; KALIN SERAPIONOV
exhibition space that opened in 1981 to mark
1,300 years since the founding of Bulgaria.
It’s a monumental hexagonal monolith of
concrete, glass and steel that hosts concerts,
dance performances, fi lms and plays. If
the weather’s pleasant, join skateboarders,
families and picnickers in the popular park
that surrounds it. ndk.bg
If you’re looking for a shot of high culture,
tickets for the SOFIA OPERA AND BALLET are
very reasonable, and there are a variety of
productions from famous operas to musicals
and special productions for children.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral;
cafe culture on Oborishte
Street; National Palace of
Culture; Sex and the City
exhibition at the Institute of
Contemporary Art
While plenty of opera-goers do dress up,
and the website states that ‘formal attire
is recommended’, in reality there’s a very
wide range of attendees wearing everything
from jeans to suits. It’s also a lovely, grand
building to admire, and the productions are
fi rst-rate. operasofia.bg
The BULGARIAN ARMY THEATRE was built
in 1936, and once housed the opulent Royal
Cinema. It’s more about the stage than the
screen these days, with a main hall and a
studio theatre, staging modern versions
of classics as well as contemporary drama.
Performers are often well-known Bulgarian
fi lm and television actors. tba.art.bg
If your Bulgarian’s not quite up to scratch,
however, head to SOFIA THEATRE , where
English subtitles have been introduced
for much of the repertoire (check the
website for details of the subtitled shows).
The theatre’s varied offering is accessible
and contemporary, with around 10-12
productions a year in its four spaces.
sofiatheatre.eu JO FLETCHER-CROSS
SMART TRAVELLER
TOMISLAV RASHKOV’S
after-dark spots
BAR PETAK
The name of this bar means
‘Friday’ as no matter what day of
the week you go, it always feels
like Friday here. Almost every
local has a story about this place.
barfriday.bg
HAMBARA
To enter Hambara — the oldest
underground bar in Sofia — you
have find the venue in a very
small, dark street, then knock on
the door and wait for someone
to let you in. Everything is lit
entirely by candles, and there’s a
piano, too. Ul. 6-ti septemvri 22
K.E.B.A
Most of the regulars are artists,
actors, painters, musicians and
filmmakers — unsurprising given
that it’s right next to the National
Academy for Theatre and Film
Arts. They play interesting,
alternative music, serve great
drinks and there’s a very friendly
atmosphere for a great evening
out. facebook.com/KEBAsofi
EXE CLUB
This place attracts a lot of
upcoming DJs, has a very slick
design and plays all the best
tracks you won’t hear anywhere
else. It’s frequented by people
who really like to have fun.
execlub.bg
SPUTNIK
This is the best bar for first-
class cocktails in Sofia. It looks
amazing, but the biggest
highlight is the bartenders
— simply tell them your mood
and favourite ingredients and
they’ll make you the perfect
drink. sputnikcocktailbar.com
Tomislav is vice president of
365 Association, a non-profit
association with a focus on
tourism and culture. One of
its initiatives is the Free Sofia
walking tour. freesofiatour.com
March 2020 31
Museum
of Modern Art
Bratislava, Slovakia
A GEM
IN THE MIDDLE
www.danubiana.sk OF THE DANUBE

�xmoo�
With its wild moorlands and endless
skies, this corner of South West England
is perfect for a gloriously rural getaway
Why go
Straddling Somerset and Devon,
Exmoor is a national park of
formidable drama, with steep-sided
valleys and russet-hued moorland
punctuated by solitary trees that
have been twisted and contorted
by the wind. A red deer, sporting a
crown of antlers, may emerge from
the mist; a brooding raven may flap
moodily by. Above all, Exmoor feels
like a real country escape, shaped by
thousands of years of farming and
inhabited by people who have lived
and worked here all their lives. Blessed
with a network of footpaths, ancient
bridleways and lanes, it’s easy to
explore and combines wilderness with
indulgent treats — plus the chance to
temporarily leave a busy life behind.
visitexmoor.com
What to do
Teetering on the north coast of
Exmoor, seemingly poised to tumble
into the sea, is a serrated frontier of
boulders and peaks known as Valley
of Rocks. Amble along the Victorian
path that straddles their seaward
IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY
faces or, for a more adventurous
undertaking, scramble up the rocks
that rise abruptly above the lush green
landscape. Look out for the feral goats
that nimbly pick their way along the
steepest slopes.
SMART TRAVELLER
STAY AT HOME
We like
Board the Cliff Railway, which
connects the twin towns of Lynton
and Lynmouth. This working heritage
railway dates back to 1888 and is one of
just three fully water-powered railways
left in the world. Two cars with water-
operated brakes wheeze and groan
their way up and down a dizzying cliff
facet. cliffrailwaylynton.co.uk
Don’t miss
Reaching 1,705ft, Dunkery Beacon is
the highest point on Exmoor — and on
a clear day, it feels as though you can
see all of South West England from
its broad summit. While you can, of
course, explore in solitude, local guide
Jennie Wild is excellent company and
offers a walking safari with sundowners
on the summit. wildaboutexmoor.com
WHERE TO EAT
Where to stay
There are just eight rooms at the Visit the medieval village
Dunkery Beacon Country House, all of Dunster for a clutch of
of which are beautifully furnished.
Set in a valley to the north of Dunkery
cafes and tea rooms. Try
Beacon, this small hotel has an homemade cakes at Tessa’s
intriguing history as a Cold War Tea Shop or, for a light lunch
bolthole for British spies. A glass of red
wine here, enjoyed in the cosy guest and excellent homemade
lounge, is the perfect end to a romp scones, head to Chapel House.
on the moors. From £89 a night, B&B.
dunkerybeaconaccommodation.co.uk
theoldehousedunster.co.uk
MARK ROWE chapelhousedunster.co.uk
March 2020 33
 DISCOVER
what makes a
little island so
Little efforts. big on spirit.

Big breaks.
Wave hello to your new favourite
island. Feel your heart beat faster
in Jersey, Europe’s best-kept surf
secret, which doubles in size at
low tide to uncover hidden worlds
to explore. Probably why we walk
around with a spring in our step.
Want to learn how we roll?
Dive in and discover the little
island with a big spirit.

Jersey.com/big-spirit
#theislandbreak
 SMART TRAVELLER

ONE FOR THE BOOK

The shortlist for the Edward Stanford Travel Writing Awards, organised by
travel book and map store Stanfords, has been revealed. Here, the bookshop
shares what made these six reads stand out

Underland Last Days in Lotharingia by On the Plain The Bells of Epic Continent by
by Robert Old Europe by Simon Winder of Snakes by Old Tokyo by Nicholas Jubber
Macfarlane Richard Bassett This book is dubbed Paul Theroux Anna Sherman If you knew this
Macfarlane’s A memoir based ‘a personal history Several of Theroux’s This is a story book was poetry,
exploration of on 10 years of the of Europe’s lost previous books that combines there’s a chance you
the spaces and life of a young country’. It’s filled have been based Sherman’s search might decide not to
substances below British musician with descriptions on travels by train, for the bells that read it, which would
the Earth’s surface turned foreign of the ebb and flow but his latest book used to mark the be a grave mistake.
are spread across correspondent, of places, people reveals the soul of time in Tokyo with Several epic poems
several years and this entertaining and activities across Mexico from his glimpses into her create the trunk and
continents. He calls read will appeal Lotharingia (a car. He follows the growing friendship limbs of a book on
the places he visits to the musically medieval region that Mexico-US frontier with a coffeeshop which core elements
the Underland — the inclined — and to encompassed the and observes the owner. Each of European
voids of limestone any reader seeking Benelux, Lorraine tensions in the chapter describes history, culture and
caves, gushing a first-hand account and much of border towns. beautifully the city’s geography then
torrents within a of the decline northern Germany). Theroux also neighbourhoods flower. Nicholas
glacier and fungal and fall of Soviet- Winder describes immerses himself and the inhabitants explores how, over
networks beneath controlled Eastern each individual in the lives of Sherman encounters many centuries, the
a forest. Although Europe. The book tessera making up the people and when visiting the people of Europe
terrified on several is written in three the mosaic that creatures along supposed location created lasting
of his subterranean long chapters, each is Lotharingia. the way. (Hamish of each ‘bell of time’. traditions. (John
excursions, he’s recounting his life (Picador, £20) Hamilton, £20) (Picador, £14.99) Murray Press, £20)
awestruck by in a different city,
his encounters. including richly
Note: if you’re detailed descriptions ABOUT THE AWARDS
claustrophobic, you of key landmarks
might need to skip singled out by the The Edward Stanford Travel Writing Awards celebrate the world’s best travel writing and
some bits. (Hamish author. (Penguin, travel writers. The 2020 competition winners will be revealed at an event in London on
Hamilton, £20) £9.99) 26 February. For tickets go to: edwardstanfordawards.com

March 2020 35
Tr a v e l t h a t ’s m a d e f o r y o u
stays with you.

Every single part of your

journey with us is crafted
around your needs. That’s
because we understand
the power travel has to
change you. A dawn hot
air balloon flight above
Myanmar’s Lake Inle
will help you see the
world in a fresh new
light. So while
other journeys
end when you
get back home,
travel made the
Audley way stays
with you forever.

Talk to one of our country specialists on

01993 662 166 or visit audleytravel.com
 COMPETITION

Win A TWO-NIGHT BREAK

TO AMSTERDAM
National Geographic Traveller (UK) has teamed
up with Eurostar and Pulitzer Amsterdam to offer
a two-night stay for two in the Dutch capital
THE TRAIN
Travelling in Standard Premier Class,
the winner and a guest will zoom off to
Amsterdam Centraal station courtesy of
Eurostar, arriving in the heart of the city
in just 3h52m (travelling time from London
St Pancras International). Comfortable
IMAGES: GETTY; PULITZER AMSTERDAM
THE HOTEL
Set within 25 interlinked 17th- and 18th-
century canal houses on Prinsengracht,
the iconic design hotel Pulitzer Amsterdam
is one of the finest accommodation options
in the Dutch capital. The winner and guest
will stay in a Classic room, decked out in
TO ENTER
Answer the following question
online at nationalgeographic.co.uk/
competitions
WHAT IS THE CAPITAL OF
THE NETHERLANDS?
Competition closes on 31 March 2020.
The winner must be a resident of the UK

and stylish, Eurostar offers the perfect
option for a no-fly getaway, transporting
passengers directly into the heart of the
city with no luggage restrictions, quick
and easy check-in and free wi-fi on board.
It’s also a much greener way to discover
the Continent — a Eurostar journey to
Amsterdam emits up to 80% fewer carbon
emissions than the equivalent short-haul
flight. eurostar.com
a chic, eclectic style that strikes a perfect & Ireland aged 18 and over. Full T&Cs at
balance between Amsterdam’s rich past and nationalgeographic.co.uk/competitions
contemporary present. The award-winning
Pulitzer’s Bar, meanwhile, offers a creative
cocktail menu in an intimate atmosphere.
This year, Pulitzer Amsterdam marks its
50th anniversary, and is celebrating with
a special 50 Years Celebration Package,
which is available throughout 2020.
pulitzeramsterdam.com

March 2020 37

NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR // INGRID PERSAUD
Returning to the Caribbean island she left at 18, the author finds the warmth
of the Trini people undimmed by the onward march of progress
D
ig and you’ll find my navel string
buried deep beneath Trinidad’s
soil. The southernmost in a chain of
Caribbean islands stretching from Florida to
Venezuela, my birthplace seemed the natural
setting for my debut novel. But I’d left at 18.
Evoking an authentic sense of Trinidad surely
demanded more than the fleeting visits I’d
managed over the decades. I wrote the first
draft plagued by unease. What if the Trinidad
I was so tenderly recreating on the page had
vanished? Had it ever existed? Everything I’d
written might be the nostalgia of a self-exile.
I had to return. Readers were owed more than
memory, research and Google Earth.
While shiny new towers punctured the
skyline, the birthplace of steelpan and
calypso had retained its essential vibe.
Imagine my relief. I stopped for gas and the
pump attendant asked what I did, making
conversation the way Trinis do. When I
told him I was a writer, he was delighted,
introduced himself as a slam poet, and
invited me to his gig that weekend. I pulled
out and drove south from the capital, Port
of Spain, to my hometown, San Fernando,
grateful that economic progress hadn’t
dimmed the warmth of Trini people.
Soon it was clear I’d forgotten another
warmth — the stinging midday sun.
Thankfully, I spotted a street vendor
advertising ‘beastly cold drinks’. Horns
and car stereos blared as I crawled through
yet another traffic jam. I passed several
makeshift roadside stalls overflowing with
fruit and veg. I bought Julie mangoes — the
fruit of the gods. And after years of buying
herbs in tiny plastic packets I couldn’t resist
a fist full of coriander to cook with the deep
purple eggplants as long as my arm.
My novel is littered with villages, beaches,
shops and monuments, and I wanted to see
them all. First stop was San Fernando Hill,
searching for the bench where a character
ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY
picnics with his lover. I took in the view I’d
been imagining from his eyes; this city I’d
grown up in, on the banks of the Gulf of Paria.
While in San Fernando, I snacked on our
most popular fast food, doubles — two pieces
of light, spicy, fried dough sandwiched with
curry channa topped with tamarind sauce,
pickled cucumber and slight pepper.
TRINIDAD
I was drawn to the dying
embers of a funeral pyre. It
could have been the funeral
I’d created in the novel, except
I’d omitted the shredded
plastic bags, broken idols and
forgotten shrines washing up
on the muddy shore
SMART TRAVELLER
I shadowed my fictional characters north
west, crossing the rice and sugar cane fields
of the Caroni Plain. Clumps of bamboo poles
carrying coloured prayer flags called jhandis
fronted many of the houses. My ancestors
— indentured Indians from Uttar Pradesh and
Bihar replacing slave labour — had brought
these traditions with them. Between 1845 and
1917, 150,000 indentured workers dared cross
the ‘black water’ of the oceans for the promise
of a better life in Trinidad. Today, they make
up nearly half the country’s population.
I wanted to visit the Temple in the Sea. Built
by a lone Hindu devotee, it now forms part of
an elaborate complex, housing a grand temple
on land and the 85ft-tall Hanuman Murti, a
statue to the monkey god. But I was drawn to
the dying embers of a funeral pyre. It could
have been the funeral I’d created in the novel,
except I’d omitted the shredded plastic bags,
broken idols and forgotten shrines washing
up on the muddy shore.
The last stop that day was an old favourite.
Caroni Bird Sanctuary is a protected,
mangrove wetland formed where the Caroni
River meets the Gulf of Paria. Once I got
into the tour boat, the world hushed and
slowed down. Trini people love an ol’ talk
and ‘liming’ with friends. Here was silence as
we navigated channels cut between tangled
mangrove roots. We glimpsed herons, egrets
and kingfishers but our captain explained
there were 186 species of bird living here.
As the sun lowered to the horizon flock
after flock of brilliant scarlet ibis (our
national bird) descended into the trees for
the night. I stared in awe as hundreds of
birds glowed like red Christmas baubles.
And then I noticed something new. In the
distance, pink flamingos were nesting.
They’d migrated from Venezuela. Perhaps
they’d followed the thousands of Venezuelan
refugees who are now part of Trinidadian
life. My island home continues to change but
it’s still mine, no matter where I live.
Ingrid Persaud’s debut novel, Love After Love, will be
published in April by Faber & Faber. She won the 13th
BBC National Short Story Award for The Sweet Sop,
about a Trinidadian man reunited with his absent
father via the power of chocolate.
@IngridPersaud
March 2020 39
SMART TRAVELLER
MEET THE ADVENTURER
ELISE WORTLEY
We meet the traveller who studies history’s most adventurous women, then
recreates their journeys — all without the aid of modern equipment
Tell us about your first adventure
When I was 16, I went to India with a group of friends.
It was a massive eye-opener and a shock to the system.
Everything was so different from what I knew. We went
trekking in Rajasthan and visited Delhi as well. All the
memories are so vivid: being in the mountains; finding
prayer stones with carvings; meeting the people who
lived there; eating yak cheese. India has a very special
place in my heart, I suppose — it’s where this all started.
What does adventure mean to you?
Anything where I’m pushing myself. Something that
makes me feel excited or nervous, or that involves
learning something new about myself or the world.
It doesn’t necessarily have to be a massive trip.
Which would you choose: sunrise or sunset?
Sunrise, because it means there’s a bit of warmth coming,
if you’re lucky.
If you could change one thing in the world of
travel, what would it be?
For women and men to be equal. There are a lot of women
missing out on job opportunities in the world of travel
because of their gender. It’s especially true of guiding
and mountain guiding — a lot of the time when I’m
organising things in other countries, I ask for a female
team and the answer is ‘no’. It’s something I’ve come
across a lot, but hopefully one day we’ll all be equal.
40 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Who’s the most interesting person you’ve met?
Probably Jangu Lepcha, my guide in Sikkim, India. She
divorced her husband and was consequently rejected
by her family. She then decided she wanted to be a
mountain guide and essentially did all the training
herself. She’s since opened homestays in nearby villages
and created opportunities for local people to make belts
and jewellery to sell. She’s just amazing. Every day I spent
with her inspired me even more.
Which landscape do you think is most delicate?
I’d say the mountains. Although they look so vast and
indestructible, they’re surprisingly delicate. People
don’t really realise that all this warming is killing off the
animals and plants. It’s startling to see that first-hand.
How do you find adventuring as a woman?
It’s obviously a lot easier now for women to travel
(although not in some places). Women were so much
more hardcore than their male counterparts back in the
day — and even today, really. Imagine climbing Everest
on your period; it’s just one of the things we have to think
about that men don’t.
What’s your favourite piece of kit?
A hot water bottle. I can’t sleep without one in
the mountains.
Where’s the most extreme place you’ve visited?
Probably the Tibetan border; it’s so remote. We went
right up to the frontline, where the Indian army patrol
the border. At the foot of the mountains are porters who
live there year-round and deliver food to the troops. They
all live in such harsh conditions and there’s literally
nothing around — no signal, no hospitals. It was the
most bleak and barren place I’ve ever been, and it was so
restrictive but so open. It was just bizarre.
Any regrets?
After my first trip, I left the whole project for about a
year. I was a bit overwhelmed by it all and kind of lost my
confidence. I always encourage other people not to do
that, yet there I was, just giving up.
What inspires new adventures for you?
All these women that nobody knows about. There are
just so many amazing stories. If they can do it, then I
can as well.
Elise Wortley is currently planning her next adventure, which will
follow in the footsteps of Freya Stark in Iran.
womanwithaltitiude.com
@altitudewoman
ONLINE
W H AT ’ S O N L I N E
W H AT T H E Y ’R E
E AT I N G I N H O U S TO N
Geographically, the
sprawling Texan city sits
alongside some seriously
strong culinary contenders.
But while sometimes
overlooked, Houston is
carving out a food scene
worth paying attention to.
Words: Sarah Barrell
TOP
STORIE S
Here’s what you’ve
been enjoying on the
website this month
42 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Houston is a city that confounds
expectations at every turn. In recent years,
the fast-expanding Texan city has, several
times, eclipsed New York and Los Angeles
as the most ethnically diverse in the US. In
much of the state, fusion food is a byword
for Tex-Mex, but in Houston you’ll struggle
to find a burrito-eating blue-collar worker,
and the 10-gallon cowboy hats are in scant
supply. Instead you’ll find a young, arty
demographic hanging out at Ethiopian
restaurants, vegan cafes, Middle Eastern
FOOD HOTELS
Four oyster bars that should The best luxury stays in
be on your radar Latin America
The UK has some of the world’s These hotels are far more than just
best oysters — try them here places to rest your head
delis, cold-press coffeeshops, and ‘new
American’ comfort food joints. GQ magazine
recently dubbed Houston ‘the capital of
Southern cool’, while celebrity restaurateur
David Chang reckons it’s America’s most
exciting food city. He’s been wowed by the
local-born trend for Viet-Cajun that sees
the region’s sizeable Vietnamese population
conjure spicy magic from the classic
Louisiana-Texan crawfish broil.
GO ONLINE TO READ MORE AT
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL
HOT TOPIC
Is your travel
photography ethical?
The lowdown on how to take
sensitive snaps on your travels
 ONLINE

B E YO N D T H E
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO IN SAN JUAN T R AV EL S EC T I O N

Puerto Rico’s colourful capital — the oldest city in US territory — sits proudly on
the island’s Atlantic coast and abounds with places to see, eat and salsa into the
early hours. Words: Farida Zeynalova

San Juan is a vibrant cocktail of Taíno

Indian, African and European heritage.
Its Spanish-era, UNESCO-listed Old Town
just turned 500, and is rich with character,
architecture and laid-back places to eat and
drink. There’s also Calle Loíza, a working-
class, predominantly Afro-Boricua area
that’s forging a cultural renaissance with
an influx of new businesses and eye-
catching street art. El Distrito, a five-acre
entertainment complex right in the heart
of San Juan, will open this spring, and in
December, Steven Spielberg’s remake of | EN V I RO N M EN T |
West Side Story will bring the tale of Puerto
Rican migrants back onto the silver screen. How the Isle of Man is tackling
Whatever your reason for going, there’s plastic waste — and winning
never been a better time to get to know this Rubbish was blighting its beaches,
heady Latin American capital. READ THE but now the island’s ‘addictive’
FULL GUIDE ONLINE NOW and collaborative approach to
cleanup and sustainability is
setting standards as a microcosm
for success.

| S C I EN C E |

How the asteroid that killed the

dinosaurs primed Earth for
modern life
The impact may actually have
created opportunities for the life
WIERCIGROCH; CHEMA GONZALEZ; CWISS

that survived, new data reveals.

IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY; KAROLINA

| P H OTO G R A P H Y |

Landscapes of Imagination:
images of wildest Wales
Compact but impressive, there’s
a lot of big stuff for a small country.
Here’s a selection of Cymru’s
scenic highlights.

S E A RC H F O R
N ATG E OT R AV E LU K

FAC E B O O K
I N S TAG R A M
T WITTER

VIETNAM PHOTOGRAPHY SOUTH AMERICA PINTEREST

The five best beaches in In pictures: Dining with How Argentinians bring fun
south Vietnam nomads in Kyrgyzstan and flamboyance to football
From Nha Trang to the largely Life with Kyrgyz shepherds in their Sometimes the fans are as much
undiscovered gem of Ghenh Rang summer mountain pastures of a show as the match itself

March 2020 43
 Weekender
BERGEN
Bounded by mountains and sea, Norway’s second city is arguably its
most picturesque and welcoming. Its timbered facades and medieval
harbour ooze old-world charm, its cuisine is creative, while the
surrounding wilderness is ripe for exploring. Words: Josephine Price

L
ife in Bergen has always been defined
by the sea. Lying on the southern part
of Norway’s fjord-speckled western
coast, the city descends from the seven
mountains that frame it to meet a dramatic,
fractured coastline of inlets and islands.
It’s impossible to detach Bergen’s existence
from its seafaring past and present.
Today, visitors flock to see the medieval
harbourfront, Bryggen, which sprung up in
response to a flourishing codfish industry
— one that saw Bergen become Scandinavia’s
largest city in the 1600s.
The iconic fjords are another major draw.
The city pours out to the edge of every
peninsula, looking out to sea, and tourist
boats regularly dart in and out, taking
curious passengers to see the cragged
waterways that Norway is so well-known for.
Bergen knows its strengths and plays to
them. With the ebb and flow of maritime
trade over the years, the city amassed a
rich, diverse heritage and a talent for
welcoming outsiders. The city entertains
visitors through both its art and history
and at its dining tables (it’s a UNESCO City
of Gastronomy). And for those looking to
escape into nature, there’s nowhere better:
Bergen is the perfect launchpad from which
to explore the wilderness that unfolds
beyond the city’s edge.
Constantly developing while also carefully
preserving, Bergen is a city that has stood the
test of time.

44 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

DAY ONE DINING & DOCKS
MORNING
Make a beeline for Bryggen, the
city’s historic harbour district and
UNESCO World Heritage Site, for a
glimpse of how Bergen operated in
the Middle Ages. The harbourfront
— lined with gabled houses
painted shades of red, amber and
ochre — is an image that’s
synonymous with the city.
Bryggen’s warren of shops,
restaurants and artist studios
is housed in 62 historic buildings
that once served as a base for
mercantile superpower the
Hanseatic League. In recent years,
the area, along with the nearby
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; GETTY
village of Balestrand, has served as
the inspiration for the magical
kingdom of Arendelle in Disney’s
Frozen movies. If a pastry pit stop is
required, try Baker Brun on the
harbourfront for kanelbullar
(cinnamon rolls) as big as your face.
AFTERNOON
Bergen’s creative culinary scene is
testament to the global influences
that arrived via its harbours.
Stop by the fresco-clad former
stock exchange, Matborsen,
which now houses a selection of
interesting restaurants, including
Bare Vestland; it specialises
in small plates, but if you only
order one thing for lunch, make
it the plukkfisk — haddock,
potatoes and onions cooked in
a bechamel sauce (comfort food
at its finest and most filling).
You’ll need the sustenance, as the
afternoon should be dedicated
to discovering Fløyen, one of the
city’s most popular peaks. The
Fløibanen funicular sweeps you up
to the top in a matter of minutes;
forested paths snake back down
to the city — ideal for those
looking to hike.
FROM LEFT: Small island in
Hardangerfjord, near Bergen;
dining al fresco on Bryggen’s
main promenade
EVENING
Dive back into Bryggen for
a dose of history at Bergen’s
oldest restaurant, Bryggen
Tracteursted, a place where
Norwegian and Hanseatic
traditions collide. It’s been
in operation since 1708 and,
accordingly, has plenty of
stories — its stone floor, for
example, meant it was the only
room in the wooden medieval
quarter allowed have a fire. On
the menu, you’ll find traditional
delicacies such as cod tongue,
fermented trout and reindeer
tartare served with a twist as
bite-size Norwegian tapas. More
conventional offerings are also
on offer, such as spiced herring
and stews. Afterwards, stop by
Dyvekes wine bar for a nightcap in
its 12th-century cellar to round off
your historical escapade.
BERGEN’S BEST
Island trips
FOR HIKES: ASKØY
Get a glimpse of yet another
side of Bergen from Askøy.
Less than half an hour’s
boat ride from the city’s
harbour, the island is ripe
for exploration. Hiking
trails take visitors up to the
island’s highest point, where
views of the Byfjord and
the surrounding islands
of Sotra and Øygarden
complement the views
of the city opposite.
FOR FOOD: HOLMEN
Head to the island of Holmen
on a culinary pilgrimage
to check out Cornelius
Sjømatrestaurant, something
of an institution in Bergen. A
25-minute boat ride whisks
you from the city to the island
for a meal accompanied
by views of the fjords and
mountains beyond. The
Meteorological Menu is
inspired by the elements
and what the local fishermen
pull up in their nets.
corneliusrestaurant.no
FOR A BIG DAY OUT:
SOLUND
From Bergen, you can
take a day trip out to the
westernmost islands of
Norway on the city’s postal
boat. Six bridges and a
three-mile road connect the
islands of Solund, Bulandet
and Værlandet and their
rocky islets. Journeying on
the boat is a great way to
get to know the locals.
gofjords.com
March 2020 45
 The hotel’s main building

A Norwegian folk tale hideaway

for adventurous travellers
SURROUNDED BY TRANQUIL NATURE and situated just above Oslo’s buzzing city centre, you’ll find
Lysebu — a hotel full of elegance and history, and seemingly straight out of a folk tale.

Lysebu was Norway’s national gift to Denmark in appreciation for the Danish people’s support during the
Second World War. Since then, Lysebu has been the perfect spot for experiencing Scandinavian culture,
as well as enjoying summer hikes and winter sports. The hotel takes pride in its Nordic cuisine — and
with a kitchen garden, honeybee colonies, a brewery and an award-winning wine cellar, you’re in for an
unforgettable experience. Welcome to Lysebu.

The view from the terrace

HOTEL & RESTAURANT

Oslo, Norway
booking@lysebu.no
+47 21 51 10 00
www.lysebu.no
 WEEKENDER

TOP 5 Cyclists beside

Hardangerfjord
Mountain
adventures
ZIP-LINE
Test your head for heights
on Norway’s fastest zip-line.
Starting outside the sole
restaurant on the highest
of Bergen’s mountains,
Mount Ulriken, this zip-line
whisks thrill-seekers nearly
1,000ft through a vertiginous
landscape, providing epic
views high above the urban
centre. ulriken643.no

BIKE
During the summer, rent
a bike and enjoy the cycle
tracks atop Mount Fløyen
— it’s a chance to see the city
in a whole new light. Rugged
hillside paths weave past
lakes and through forests.
This is prime mountain biking
terrain — there are steep
climbs and challenging
turns. bergenbysykkel.no
bimbimbikes.com

PADDLE
Various companies take
travellers out on the
waterways. The seas and
rivers are inviting, but make
sure to check out the free
— yes, free — canoeing every
day during summer on Lake
Skomakerdiket, situated on
Mount Fløyen. floyen.no

HIKE
You’ll soon notice that
Mount Fløyen and Mount
Ulriken are mentioned a lot
in Bergen. They’re the two
most prominent of the seven
surrounding mountains,
and the basis for many
adventurous pursuits beyond
the city limits. Take in both
on the popular five-hour
Vidden Trail.
CAMP
There’s no reason why a
hotel has to provide your
accommodation on a
IMAGE: RAPHA/FJORDNORWAY.COM
DAY TWO MUSEUMS, MARKETS & CIDER
MORNING
Start the day with a dose of culture
at the city’s most impressive
cultural institution. The Kode is
a collection of four galleries and
three composers’ homes spread
across Bergen. With over 50,000
items arranged across the sites, it’s
easy to find your niche. The four
Kode galleries — located in front
of the Lille Lungegårdsvannet lake
in the city’s centre — conveniently
AFTERNOON
Fuel up with lunch at the city’s
300-year-old fish market.
Whether you pick up a crab
baguette at the outdoor stalls
lining the harbour (open May to
June) or take a seat in the indoor
area (where fresh seafood is
prepared at sleek counters), you’ll
be sure to get a taste of the rich
culture of seafood ingrained here.
Next, board a boat (14 weekly
EVENING
Arriving by boat into Balestrand
feels like an adventure plucked
straight from the pages of a
Norwegian fairytale. Pitch up at
Kviknes Hotel, a grand Victorian
timber building, then sink into
a plush armchair and stare out
at the fjord beyond. For dinner,
head to The Cider House (open
June to August), home to the
world’s northernmost cidery and

summer visit. Camping is
allowed for up to two days at
a time in the city’s mountains
— pitch up and find your
peace. And for those
wanting to get even closer to
nature, remember that wild
swimming is allowed in any
body of water that’s not a
source of drinking water.
divide up the city’s various
artistic ages. Spend plenty of time
browsing them all, although you
may want to linger a little longer in
Kode 3, which houses the largest
collection of Edvard Munch
paintings outside of Oslo, as well
as an impressive sketch of his
iconic The Scream.
3h50m sailings from Bergen) and
head off to explore the coastline
and the city’s popular archipelago.
Your destination is Balestrand,
located in Sognefjord, Norway’s
longest and deepest fjord, which
extends more than 120 miles
inland to meet the foothills of the
Jotunheimen Mountains.
a restaurant. Orchard tours and
tastings are offered, alongside
traditional food and a warm
welcome from owners, the
Eitungjerde Høyvik family.
One of them, Åge, hosts
occasional Gregorian chant
concerts in the deepest, most
echoey cider cellar.

March 2020 47
WEEKENDER

FESTIVAL FEVER

Four of the best

NATTJAZZ
22-30 MAY
The soft sounds of the jazz
festival spill out across
Bergen at the end of
May. Hosted in Verftet,
a converted sardine factory,
the festival offers up big
names but also prides itself
on introducing up-and-
coming artists too.
nattjazz.no

BERGENFEST
10-13 JUNE
Set this year in the historic
Bergenhus Fortress, this
long-standing festival
attracts big names from the
worlds of pop, rock, hip-
hop and electronic music.
bergenfest.no

BEYOND THE GATES

19-22 AUGUST
This year’s performers at the
heavy metal event — held at
the Grieghallen concert hall
— include Mercyful Fate, Idle
Hands and Tribulation.
SOUNDS OF BERGEN
ticketmaster.no

Norway has a long tradition of music- VIL VIL VEST

making, nowhere more so than Bergen. 24-26 SEPTEMBER
This festival/music industry
It’s home to one of the world’s oldest conference showcases
orchestras — the Bergen Philharmonic, international artists and
homegrown talent. Over 90
in business since 1765. Bergen has also acts are set to perform this

been a prominent player in the country’s year. villvillvest.no

modern music scene, particularly in the

1990s, when ‘the Bergen Wave’ saw a generation
of musicians from the city dominate the
airwaves. This influence has continued into FROM TOP: Musicians
playing in Bergen’s old
the present day, as evidenced by the myriad town; former summer MORE INFO:
music venues across the city that maintain the residence of Norwegian Baker Brun. bakerbrun.no
violinist and composer Bare Vestland.
movement’s momentum. Ole Bull on Lysøen Island barevestland.no
Bryggen Tracteursted.
www.bryggentracteursted.no
Dyvekes. facebook.com/

THREE TO VISIT: COMPOSERS’ RESIDENCES dyvekesvinkjeller

OLE BULL – LYSØEN ISLAND
Bergen-born violinist and
composer Ole Bull travelled the
world performing in the 1800s
but spent summers in his later
years at a villa on this island just
south of Bergen. Explore the villa
with its onion domes and exotic
EDVARD GRIEG – TROLDHAUGEN
The Norwegian composer lived
in this manor house on the
outskirts of the city for 22 years
during his stellar career. It was in
his garden cabin during the late
19th century that he composed
some of his best-known works.
Kode. kodebergen.no
Kviknes Hotel. kviknes.no
HARALD SÆVERUD – SILJUSTØL The Cider House.
Often cited as one of the most ciderhuset.no
notable private homes in Norway, visitbergen.com
this mountain farmhouse was a visitnorway.com
creative haven for 20th-century
composer Harald Sæverud. Today, HOW TO DO IT
Wizz Air and Norwegian
hiking trails, summer concerts
fly to Bergen from Luton
and the museum lure in those
and Gatwick, respectively.
IMAGES: GETTY

furnishings on a guided tour. Swing by to explore the house looking to explore this distinctive Double rooms at Radisson
Afterwards stretch your legs on the and gardens or catch a show at home, eight miles south of Bergen Blu Royal Hotel, Bergen from
eight miles of pathways that snake the onsite concert hall. in the borough of Ytrebygda. 996 krone (£113), room only.
around the island. lysoen.no/en griegmuseum.no/en siljustolmuseum.no/en wizzair.com norwegian.com

48 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
STATE
OF THE
ART

Perfectly placed in central Oslo’s

old harbor you will find the newest
masterpiece in the Clarion Hotel®
family. Surrounded by art galleries
and institutions and within walking
distance to just about anything from
the greatest Nordic dining experiences
to local designer shops, Clarion Hotel
Oslo stands out in a crowd.

CLARION LIVING
NOT JUST STAYING

CLARION HOTEL® OSLO

NORDICCHOICEHOTELS.COM
 Eat
CHIANG RAI
The time-honoured recipes of Thailand’s northernmost state draw
on the natural bounty of its mountains and the ancient traditions of its
indigenous peoples. Words: Audrey Gillan
R
at-tail radish, Chinese onions, hooker
chives, bitter aubergines and handfuls
of prik num (mild and fruity banana
chillies). After gathering these ingredients
— all staples in Thailand’s mountainous
north — Kay Plunkett-Hogge picks up piles
of fresh herbs and brushes them against my
face like a green, feathery fan. The fragrance
of each is so bright they’re almost singing.
We’re in Mae Chan market in Chiang Rai
province, and as she shops, Kay chats to
the stallholders, leaving almost each one
agog when they first hear her — a farang, or
foreigner — speak in perfect Thai. “I have the
face of a foreigner and the heart of a Thai,”
she laughs. “As soon as I get back here, I
think in Thai, and then I dream in Thai.”
Kay was born in Bangkok, in the south, but
fell in love with this part of country when,
aged seven, she visited with her father and
tasted khao soi, the region’s heady curried
noodle soup — a dish that’s crowned with a
nest of crisp-fried noodles.
50 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
‘It’s a place that I love and I spend a lot
of time far up in the mountains of the
Golden Triangle among the coffee and tea
plantations, scudding clouds and green,
green forest,’ Kay writes in her book, Baan:
Recipes and Stories From My Thai Home.
And now I’ve come beneath the clouds
with her to learn about the regional cuisine
— one that’s more rustic than elsewhere
in Thailand, in part because of its remote
location, terroir, cool climate, and the
diversity of its population. More than 30
ethnic groups can be found in Chiang
Rai — which shares borders with Laos and
Myanmar (Burma) — all of which bring
different cooking influences to the table.
I soon discover that there’s little coconut
IMAGES: YINDEE; GETTY
milk, fish sauce or sugar in dishes. Nor are
things very spicy.
This is a meat-exalting part of the world
— with pork being king — but one in which
more than 40 indigenous herbs help to cut
through the fat on the palate and in the gut.
FROM LEFT: Phu Chaisai
Mountain Resort; sunrise
at a tea plantation in
Chiang Rai

March 2020 51

Here, sticky rice is a staple, served in a
bamboo container called a kratip khao. Kay
teaches me that in Thailand, rice is more
than just a side dish. “You don’t ask if you’ve
had dinner yet, you ask ‘tarn khao ayang?’
— have you had rice yet?” she explains.
Growing up in Thailand, working here
and then travelling to and from her London
home, Kay has gathered recipes from all
over the country. Up here in her beloved
mountains, Kay sought out dishes from the
Akha — indigenous people who crossed into
the countries of the Golden Triangle [the
area where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar
converge at the confluence of the Ruak and
Mekong Rivers] early in the 20th century.
“Akha food is interesting in that it uses very
little to no fat for cooking,” she says. “Most
dishes are steamed or grilled or dry fried.
The flavours are clean and bright, herbs and
chillies enhanced with salt and smoke.”
We take the market produce we’ve bought
up into the foothills of Doi Mae Salong
mountain to the kitchen at Phu Chaisai
Mountain Resort, where Kay has been
working with the culinary team to put
Akha dishes on the restaurant menu (later
this year, she’ll begin teaching classes at
its beautiful, airy cookery school). What
soon emerges to be laid on our outdoor
table is nam prik Akha, the Akha version
of a ubiquitous dip made with tomatoes,
chillies, shallots, coriander and salt; pla
FROM LEFT: Phu
Chaisai Mountain
IMAGE: YINDEE
Resort cooking
class; Akha food
at Phu Chaisai
hor bai tong (fish steamed in banana leaves
with herbs and spices); kua gai (chicken with
chilli, lemongrass, galangal and garlic); mok
hed (steamed mushrooms and acacia leaves);
and moo pad hom choo (dried belly pork
with hooker chives, garlic and spices).
Phu Chaisai was created by M L Sudavdee
Kriangkrai, an award-winning architect
and interior designer known as Mom Da.
Here, the landscape has been allowed to tell
its story and has dictated the whole ethos,
one of authenticity rather than luxury. It’s
a place to breathe. A jolly and loving soul,
Mom Da takes us on a tour of her organic
gardens and tea plantation, bouncing down
from the back of the truck and across her
fields like a nimble goat. She tells us that the
region, which once cultivated poppies for
heroin production, now grows some of the
best coffee in the world. Later, over cocktails
in her open-air bar, she introduces me to
sai oua (a pork sausage with herby, spicy
and salty notes) and puffy pork scratchings,
served with nam prik. Nature thrums all
around us and we take in views that roll
right out to the border with Myanmar.
At Laab Sanam Keela restaurant, we try
Lanna food, the more typical fare of the
area, influenced by Yunnanese Chinese
cooking. The menu is all in Thai, so Kay,
a regular here when she’s in the north,
does the ordering. There’s pla tabtim tod
kratiem — deep-fried tilapia topped with a
EAT
A TASTE OF
Chiang Rai
THE RESTAURANT AT PHU CHAISAI
MOUNTAIN RESORT
Northern Thai and Akha
dishes are the highlights at the
resort’s restaurant, which uses
vegetables and herbs from its
own garden and meat from local
farms. Akha standouts include
moo pad hom choo (stir-fried
pork with hooker chives and chili
paste). The homemade sai oua
sausage is especially good. Three
courses around £15 per person.
phu-chaisai.com
LAAB SANAM KEELA
Yes, it specialises in laab, but
there are other fabulous dishes
here too such as the deep-fried
tilapia covered in battered shards
of garlic. The yang ruam (mixed
grill) is mostly pieces of fatty
pork, including intestines and
offal. Everything comes with
fresh vegetables and herbs. Main
course dishes from around £2.
CHIVIT THAMMA DA COFFEE
HOUSE, BISTRO & BAR
Located next to the Kok River,
this place exudes an aura of a
bygone era. It’s owned and run
by yoga and meditation teacher
Nattamon Holmberg, an advocate
of slow, ethical food. He grows
his own rice and does all the
baking; all the other produce is
locally sourced, including the
organic Arabica coffee. The
menu features international
fare but there’s a great selection
of Northern Thai starters,
including sausage platters, pork
scratchings and bowls of kow soi.
A mixed platter of local Lanna
delicacies costs around £10.
chivitthammada.com
March 2020 53
EAT
Five food finds
NAM PRIK NUM
A dip made from young chilies
(prik num), roasted on the grill and
pounded into a paste.
SAI OUA
A pork sausage with herby,
spicy and salty flavours that’s
sometimes fried but is best when
charcoal-grilled.
LAAB KHUA
A ‘salad’ of stir-fried pork mixed
with spices and fresh herbs.
GAENG HUNG LAY
A Northern Thai pork belly curry,
slowly stewed with fresh herbs
and spices.
THUA NAO KHAEP
Fermented soya bean paste,
flattened into discs and dried.
Used to add depth of flavour, as
well as an umami hit.
54 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
massive pile of crispy-fried garlic that looks
almost as if it’s been tempura battered, set
on pieces of deboned fish. Joining it is laab
dip (laab meaning ‘lucky’ and dip meaning
‘raw’), it’s a salad of raw pork mixed with a
spice and chilli blend. It’s a feature of every
celebration table.
We also try naem (also known as jin som)
— pork and rice sausage that’s been
fermented and has a sour, funky taste. All
over the table, there are piles of herbs: we
pick out feathery cha-om leaves, varieties of
coriander and tamarind leaves, but such is
the quantity that there are some even Kay
doesn’t recognise. Our guide, Mak, tells
us this is a common experience, even for
locals: “There’s always a leaf on the plate we
just don’t know,” he says.
Further up the mountain from Phu
Chaisai lives a local man who probably
never has such a problem. See Mork left to
become a teacher in Bangkok but returned
to the wild to teach visitors about wild
plants and herbs and their uses both as
medicine and as culinary ingredients.
After a rough assessment of our height and
weight, he matches each of us up with one of
his Thai ponies and, after a short time riding
round a little circle in his yard, leads us out
to trek in the mountains.
The sturdy little beasts are used to the
inclines. But me? Not so much. There’s a lot
of giggling and a little bit of fear as we trot
FROM LEFT: Nam prik
num; Thai broth
into the wild. “I love to teach people how
special it is up here,” he says. “I learned
about the plants and flowers when I was
10 years old from the older people around
me. In the city markets, you never know if
they’re using chemicals or not, but up here
there are none. We should all know more
about nature and its beauty and bounty.”
Around a large, rough-hewn table in his
wooden house, See Mork pours glasses of
lao khao, a white moonshine made from
fermented sticky rice that’s drunk with
alacrity all across the north. See Mork’s
brew is light, mild and sweetened with
honey. With it we eat a clear broth made
with chicken, carrots, potatoes, radish and
coriander, all from the garden; battered
aubergines; and nam prik kapi, made with
fermented shrimp paste and chillies.
See Mork urges us to drink more
firewater — it’s good for our health,
he says, and our digestion. “This one is
a very special lao khao,” he says, before
producing a bottle crammed with his
special herbs. “Just fill it with alcohol when
IMAGES: LOUISE HAGGER; GETTY
you get home. Let it sit a while,” he advises.
“It’ll be your elixir of life — and your taste
of Northern Thailand.”
Thai Airways flies from London to Chiang Rai from
£501, including taxes. Double rooms at Phu Chaisai
Mountain Resort start from around £70, B&B.
thaiairways.com phu-chaisai.com
 The New Luxury
Polished comfort. Modern edge.
A new tradition of luxury hospitality.

pendry.com | 619 738 7000

BALTIMORE | NATIRAR | NEW YORK | PARK CITY

SAN DIEGO | WASHINGTON, DC | WEST HOLLYWOOD

 Neighbourhood
SAN DIEGO
The beaches might be the biggest draw but the Southern Californian city’s
diverse ’hoods are equally alluring, with hippy hangouts, activist culture and
Mexican-inspired cuisine waiting to be discovered. Words: Julia Buckley

California’s southernmost city can be hard to pin down. It’s full of tourists who’ve
come to visit SeaWorld San Diego and let loose in the bar-filled Gaslamp Quarter
— and they skew first impressions. So you need to dig a little deeper. Bordering
Mexico, this is a city of taco shops, high-class mole restaurants and mezcal bars
where Californian and Mexican sensibilities merge. Even inland, if you’re not in
flipflops, you’re overdressed. Those flipflops come in handy on the beaches
wedged between the city and the Pacific. Each has its own identity, from
upmarket Coronado and weed-scented Ocean Beach to sea lion-filled La Jolla
and Pacific Beach, where surfers dandle on their boards waiting for a wave.

56 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Downtown
Bone broth, ‘radical’ pizza and all the fruit
and veg you could wish for, displayed in
the Californian sun. It’s Saturday morning
in Downtown, and it feels like half the city
has descended on the Little Italy Mercato
Farmers’ Market.
This, a few blocks north of the Gaslamp
Quarter, is the real San Diego. Italians first
moved here to work in tuna fishing; today,
this low-rise area in the lee of Downtown’s
skyscrapers is one of the city’s loveliest areas.
And on Saturdays it’s even lovelier, when over
200 stalls cram into hilly Date Street.
Of course, this is Little Italy for a reason.
So while families cram into Salt & Straw for
ice cream made with farmers’ market produce
(think honey lavender, tomato, strawberry and
olive oil sorbets), I’m at Filippi’s Pizza Grotto,
a restaurant and deli with wine flasks slung
from the ceilings and bad art on the walls. At
the deli, I order a Sicilian cannolo, a pastry
shell filled with sweet ricotta.
South of the Gaslamp is Barrio Logan,
historically a Mexican area. Although its main
drag is now home to new galleries and bars,
it’s still possible to find traditional joints on
Logan Avenue— if you know where to look.
At Mexican restaurant La Fachada, I join a
Spanish-speaking line ordering lunch at the
outdoor counter. Inside a beige-walled room
with formica tables, an elderly man drinks
a Corona beer as he watches wrestling on
TV. I’m brought soft tortillas heaped so high
there’s no way I’ll be able to close them. The
‘pescado’ is heavenly — a soft wedge of fried
fish, sprinkled with peppers, coriander and
hot sauce.
The next day, I brave the Gaslamp Quarter
— not for the infamous nightlife but to tackle
a lesser-known side of it. Brunch is peanut
butter and banana-stuffed toast at Cafe 222
— a recipe that’s earned it an appearance
on the Food Network. Two blocks up is
Downtown’s oldest building, the Davis-Horton
IMAGES: ALAMY; STACY KECK, SANDIEGO.ORG

House, a clapboard building that’s now a

museum. As I study the 19th-century antiques,
I learn about onetime owner, George Deyo,
who brewed moonshine during Prohibition.
Walking back through the Gaslamp — its
heritage buildings home to bar after bar — I
realise the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Mexican handicafts shop

Artelexia, North Park; ice cream, Little Italy;
Chicano Park Day festival, Barrio Logan

March 2020 57
NEIGHBOURHOOD
North & South Park
‘You are radiant!’ shouts the mural on the wall
outside Artelexia. At its centre is Our Lady of
Guadalupe, her face covered by an electric-
blue Sacred Heart.
If La Fachada represents San Diego’s
Mexican heritage, Artelexia is the future.
Inside the Mexican gift shop, an enormous
portrait of Frida Kahlo sprawls across one
wall; the others are crammed with textiles,
jewellery, blankets and ceramics. Almost
everything is made by artisans in Oaxaca.
I’m in hipster North Park, and it’s very
Californian. Frou-frou Pigment sells, among
other things, turbans, cannabis-infused
perfumes and plants; there’s also a healthfood
shop for cats and dogs.
There’s nightlife, too. “People call this the
beer boulevard of America,” says Steve Devlin,
tasting room manager at Mike Hess Brewing,
one of San Diego’s many microbreweries.
In 2009, it was even smaller — the city’s
first nanobrewery. Today, it makes and sells
Claritas (a German kölsch-style beer that won
gold at the 2016 World Beer Cup) in what used
to be an evangelical bookstore.
Directly above Balboa Park, the
neighbourhood of North Park is home to a
handful of museums set in frothy Spanish
revival buildings. Below it is South Park, a
58 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
residential district dotted with bookshops
and vintage stores. Between the smart bars on
Grape Street, though, is something different.
The sign outside Big Kitchen Cafe reads,
‘Small world, big kitchen. Think globally, eat
locally’. Inside, a woman strides towards me.
“Are you open?” I ask. “No,” she grins. “But do
you want to see my cafe?”
She’s Judy Forman — the self-proclaimed
‘beauty on duty’, as I’ll later find out — and
I’ve stumbled on a San Diego landmark.
There’s a horseshoe-shaped counter in a room
plastered with stickers (‘Thelma and Louise
live!’), banquettes backed by photos of The
Beatles and Martin Luther King, and a peace
flag in the lush conservatory. A sign saying
‘Hippies use back door’ has been changed so it
ends with ‘front door’.
“Judy,” I say, “are you a hippy?”
“If by a hippy you mean someone who puts
their money where their mouth is, then yeah,”
she replies, handing me a palm tree-etched
goblet of lemonade.
The cafe has been a centre for activism for
40 years, it turns out. The next day, on Judy’s
orders, I return for breakfast. “I want to show
you my city,” she tells me over burritos. So we
get in her car — manual, ancient by American
standards — and she hits the gas. “Let’s go to
the beach.”
When in San Diego…
RENT AN E-SCOOTER
They’re everywhere in
Downtown. Sign up to an app like
Lime or Bird, which will show you
where the nearest scooter is.
HIT THE ROAD
To see all of San Diego’s famous
beaches, you’ll need a car. Four
miles north of Pacific Beach is
upmarket La Jolla, with its seals
and sea lions. Above that is Torrey
Pines State Park, its beach backed
by cliff trails. With the kids? Try
Mission Beach, between Ocean
Beach and Pacific Beach; its
funfair has a vintage roller coaster.
MEXICAN GRUB
Traditional Las Cuatro Milpas in
Barrio Logan is a local favourite,
while the Gaslamp outpost of
Californian chain Puesto offers
more modern fare.
ON TAP
Beer is king in this city of over
150 breweries. Stone Brewing Co,
40 minutes north of town, has
one of the best guided tours (and
includes a sample at the end).
QUIRKY MUSEUMS
Highlights include the tiny but
brilliant Women’s Museum of
California plus Balboa Park’s San
Diego Museum of Man.
6
GETTING ABOUT
Hotel parking is costly and spaces
are scarce on the beaches, so it’s
IMAGES: GETTY
best to use ridesharing apps likes
Lyft if you’re staying in town. If
you’re sticking to the shore, many
beach hotels have bikes for guests.

The beaches
On Coronado, located on a sand-spit next to
Downtown, I’ve squished my feet into the
softest sand outside the Hotel del Coronado,
a white Victorian clapboard grande dame. At
chi-chi Pacific Beach, I’ve strolled along the
bar-lined boardwalk and down the bungalow-
dotted pier. At the end, people are fishing.
Mackerel, sea bass and stingrays are all down
in the depths, a local tells me. Although with
the latter, “usually we take a photo, give it a
kiss and throw it back in the water”.
There’s only one beach Judy wants to take
me to, though: Ocean Beach. A bit hippy, a bit
grungy, if you’re looking for classic California
viewed through a Beach Boys filter, this is it.
“Ocean Beach is about simple living
and conscious community — it’s where
you experience what it means to be a free
spirit,” Gretchen Michelle Petrina explains
at her shop, The Holistic Science Company,
which sells organic, vegan and essential oil-
crammed healing products. Next to the Ocean
Beach shop is a bungalow covered in placards.
‘OB is like fungus, it grows on you’, says one.
‘OB: where the circus is always in town!’ reads
NEIGHBOURHOOD
FROM LEFT: Folks Arts
Rare Records; Queen
Bee Market, San Diego’s
beloved bi-annual artisan
market; steps down to
Ocean Beach, known
for its hippy spirit and
Californian good looks
MORE INFO
Little Italy. littleitalysd.com
Salt & Straw. saltandstraw.com
Filippi’s Pizza Grotto.
realcheesepizza.com
Cafe 222. cafe222.com
Davis-Horton House.
gaslampfoundation.org
Artelexia. artelexia.com
Pigment. shoppigment.com
another. “I used to love Ocean Beach,” sighs Mike Hess Brewing.
Judy. “But then everyone got younger and mikehessbrewing.com
Big Kitchen Cafe. judysbigkitchen.com
drunker, and I became the grandma.”
Hotel del Coronado. hoteldel.com
From the slightly scraggy beach, where a
The Holistic Science Company.
guy is offering chakra balancing for $25 (£19), theholisticscienceco.com
we walk up Newport Avenue, the neon-lit Ocean Beach Antique Mall.
main drag, past retro cocktail joint Tony’s antiquesinsandiego.com
Martini Bar and burger joint Hodad’s to the Las Cuatro Milpas.
Ocean Beach Antique Mall — a whopping las-cuatro-milpas.com
building divided into dozens of individual Puesto. eatpuesto.com
stalls, selling everything from vintage Cali Stone Brewing Co. stonebrewing.com
Women’s Museum of California.
postcards to retro tiki statues. Back in the
womensmuseumca.org
car, Judy drives over the roller coaster hills
San Diego Museum of Man.
— skinny palm trees marking out the shape museumofman.org
of the coastline — to Sunset Cliffs, whose Food and drink recommendations.
crumbling, ruddy headland is San Diegans’ sandiego.eat.com
favourite place to catch the setting sun. sandiego.org
Judy has to scoot off to the Women’s
Museum of California, but I return solo at
sunset. The views run up the coast to La Jolla British Airways flies direct from
Heathrow from £389 return. Near Little
and down to the Coronado Islands off Mexico.
Italy, The Guild Hotel has doubles from
The ocean is silvery, and the waves break
$229 (£174), room only. The sprawling
mutely against the cliffs. When the sun sets, Catamaran Resort Hotel, on Pacific
though, the water starts slapping on the rock, Beach, has doubles from $126 (£96),
and the circling gulls start screeching. They room only. ba.com theguildhotel.com
don’t want it to end, clearly. Neither do I. catamaranresort.com
March 2020 59
 Sleep
SÃO PAULO
Brazil’s biggest city has accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets, from
arty work-live lodgings to architecturally impressive design dens with rooftop
pools overlooking the city’s expanses of green. Words: Laura Price

Known affectionately by locals as Sampa, Brazil’s biggest city is home to fashion

and food scenes to rival those of any glitzy, global metropolis. There are also
some of the world’s most luxurious and architecturally impressive hotels, mostly
around upmarket Jardins and the Oscar Freire shopping street. But the city
caters for budget travellers, too: a host of comfy digs and quiet co-working spaces
invites digital nomads and creative types to linger. Though a little a rough around
the edges, downtown São Paulo offers some of the country’s best museums and
markets. Don’t miss strolling through the street art along the elevated highway of
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES

Parque Minhocão, the city’s answer to New York’s High Line.

F
60 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
For an urban escape
PALÁCIO TANGARÁ
While most of São Paulo’s super-luxe hotels
are located around the upmarket Jardins
neighbourhood, Palácio Tangará is further
south, in the middle of Burle Marx Park. This
makes it a great destination for those keen
to escape the city and spend time relaxing
in the hotel itself, surrounded by tropical
greenery. It’s suitably palatial, with spacious
guest rooms and suites, all with park views.
There are two swimming pools — a serene
indoor one for fitness fans and an outdoor
one surrounded by trees. Oh, and there’s a
Michelin-starred restaurant led by world-
renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
ROOMS: From R$1,350 (£250), B&B.
oetkercollection.com

March 2020 61
SLEEP

For shopaholics
HOTEL EMILIANO
Want to beat the airport traffic? Book a
helicopter transfer and arrive on Hotel
Emiliano’s helipad within 20 minutes.
Of course, an entry like that demands a
seriously stylish stay, and Emiliano has the
goods — every room has a butler for a start.
Sandwiched between high-end clothes stores
and upmarket cafes on the exclusive Rua
Oscar Freire, it’s one of the best locations for
luxury travellers. Just one block away, D.O.M.
is considered one of Brazil’s best restaurants,
so it’s ideal for gastronomes too.
ROOMS: From $435 (£338), room only.
emiliano.com.br

62 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SLEEP

Fasano
BELOW: Pullman São Paulo
Vila Olimpia

For design gurus

FASANO
Synonymous with style throughout Brazil,
the Fasano family has been associated with
luxury since the opening of its first Italian
restaurant in 1902. Guests enter this hotel
from the street straight into the 1930s-style
lobby bar with leather club chairs handpicked
by owner Rogério Fasano. Each room has
polished wood floors, Venetian-framed
paintings and all the amenities required
for either business or pleasure. But the real
highlight is the 21st-floor swimming pool.
ROOMS: From R$2,398 (£436), room only.
fasano.com.br

For art aficionados

PULLMAN SÃO
PAULO VILA OLIMPIA
The Pullman Vila Olimpia is as much a
business hotel as a home for art-lovers, with
a focus on quirky design and colourful prints
from the lobby to the bar, restaurant and
rooms. Bathrooms are well-stocked with C.O.
Bigelow Apothecaries products, while coffee
table books on art and culture can be found
in each room. All rooms are modern and
spacious, but those planning a longer stay
can opt for a suite with wraparound views of
the city skyline, in-room fitness equipment
and a series of living spaces.
ROOMS: From £71, room only.
accorhotels.com

March 2020 63
 EXPERIENCE
the world’s best
Beer Tour *

Discover Authentic neighbourhoods

Sample favourite local brews
Eat the best tapas in town
Follow a beer-obsessed local

*According to TripAdvisor users, 2018 and 2019

Prague | Beer & Czech Tapas tour

OR ONE OF 1,600 OTHER BEST. DAYS. EVER. AROUND THE GLOBE.

Urban Adventures takes you to the places you can’t find on your own,
from architectural gems hidden in secret alleys to rooftop terraces with
sunset panoramas only locals know about.
Every tour is designed to give back and have a positive impact on local communities.

150 DESTINATIONS. 1,600 UNIQUE ITINERARIES. 1,700 LOCAL GUIDES.

#localsknow

urbanadventures.com
 SLEEP

For wannabe locals

GUEST URBAN SÃO PAULO
Industrial chic is the vibe at Guest Urban,
a boutique hotel in the hipster Pinheiros
neighbourhood. The converted 1960s
townhouse is now part art gallery, part
hotel. There’s a slant towards making
guests feel like locals — bikes and
cycle guides are available, as are public
transport passes. Rooms are cosy and
well-stocked while breakfast is a veritable
Brazilian bounty of bread, ham, cheese
and tropical fruit.
ROOMS: From R$239 (£44), B&B.
guesturbansp.com.br

For culture vultures

L’HOTEL PORTOBAY
Right at the heart of São Paulo’s arterial Avenida
Paulista and just moments from the must-visit Museum
of Art (MASP), L’Hotel PortoBay feels calm in contrast
to the noise and bustle of the area. There’s an indoor
heated swimming pool and tranquil spa. Rooms are on
the small side but with all the amenities, including Malin
+ Goetz products and Egyptian cotton linen. Be sure to
make the most of the Japanese breakfast.
ROOMS: From R$810 (£150), B&B. portobay.com
For lovers of live music
MAKSOUD PLAZA
With a history that includes a show from Frank Sinatra in
1981, Maksoud Plaza is a well-established landmark just
off Avenida Paulista. The hotel caters to music lovers
with live ‘choro’ music (instrumental Afro-Brazilian jazz)
in the 150 Maksoud restaurant. Meanwhile, Frank Bar
feels like a trip back in time with its classic jacaranda
wood surfaces and red leather banquettes.
ROOMS: From R$376 (£70), room only.
maksoud.com.br
For urban camping
AKI HOSTEL
Ever wondered what it’d be like to bed down al fresco,
in the middle of the concrete jungle? Try Aki, which has
a rooftop campsite with skyscraper views — a unique
way to see the city. But if camping isn’t your bag, there
are plenty of rooms, both private and shared, with basic
facilities including lockers under bunk beds.
ROOMS: Camping from R$30 (£5), dorm beds from
R$34 (£6) a night; doubles from R$140 (£26), room only.
akihostel.com.br

March 2020 65
SLEEP

For architecture buffs

HOTEL UNIQUE
Resembling a giant slice of watermelon or the
hull of a ship, designer Ruy Ohtake’s Hotel
Unique is considered one of São Paulo’s key
architectural attractions. The rooms have
curved walls and huge circular windows
overlooking Ibirapuera Park and the streets
of Jardins, the city’s fanciest postcode. But
the key attraction is the rooftop Skye Bar
& Restaurant, which draws trendsetting
locals for its 360-degree views and food by
renowned French chef Emmanuel Bassoleil.
ROOMS: From R$1,188 (£220), room only.
hotelunique.com.br

For creative minds

WE HOSTEL
Set in a repurposed early 20th-century
mansion, this feels more luxury homestay
than hostel. Far from the noise levels of the
average youth hostel, the living area is a
haven for creatives with its polished wood
floors, stylish sofas and chairs. White walls,
cast-iron railings and a curved staircase
afford a homey feel throughout, and rooms
(whether private or shared, mixed or unisex)
are cosy and well-equipped. Breakfast is just
£3 and the homemade cakes are unmissable.
ROOMS: Dormitory beds from R$50 (£9);
doubles from R$190 (£35), room only.
wehostel.com.br

66 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Plotting your travels for the year ahead? Then look no further.
We’ve mapped out 20 destinations that should be on your horizon,
from new eco-resorts in Panama to culinary hotspots in Cumbria.
Ref lecting a growing appetite for responsible and authentic travel, our
Cool List is replete with nations bouncing back from trying times,
cities launching inspired new cultural attractions, and pioneering
destinations throwing open the doors of innovative hotels

W O R D S S A R A H B A R R E L L , A M E L I A D U G G A N , Z A N E H E N R Y,
J A M I E L A F F E R T Y, B E N L E R W I L L , C O N N O R M C G O V E R N ,
P Ó L Ó C O N G H A I L E & DAV I D W H I T L E Y

68 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
THE COOL LIST

70 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 THE COOL LIST

1 NAMIBIA
3 0 T H I N D E P E N D E N C E C E L E B R AT I O N S //
N E W L U X U R Y L O D G E S // G O I N G O F F - G R I D

Few destinations can compete with Namibia’s raw, unspoiled

beauty for off-grid adventuring. Add into the mix a major
anniversary and eye-catching new lodges in the country’s
untapped south, and Namibia is one to watch in 2020
The pull is clear: home to otherworldly landscapes
and star-blotted skies (not to mention excellent safari
credentials), Namibia offers travellers a complete
immersion in nature. While many of the country’s
off-radar retreats have so far been concentrated in
the north, it’s now the copper-hued dunes and game
parks of the south that are seeing a wave of design-
conscious openings.
The hotel grabbing the headlines is a fresh offering
by safari experts Natural Selection. KWESSI DUNE LODGE
opens in March — a cluster of just 10 thatched cottages
in the heart of the NamibRand Nature Reserve (one of the
largest private reserves in southern Africa) and in easy
reach of Sossuvlei’s epic dunes. Each suite is designed
with a ‘stargazer room’, from which guests can count
constellations in the clear night skies.
Nearby in the same reserve, &Beyond has reopened
SOSSUSVLEI DESERT LODGE following a complete facelift
and overhaul of its excursions menu. And even further
south, amid the dramatic dunes of the Karas Region,
Zannier Hotels launched the colonial era-inspired tented
camp SONOP, its second lodge in the country, in July.
It’s all impeccably well-timed too, as Namibia gears
up for a major celebration in 2020. This year marks the
30TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE COUNTRY’S INDEPENDENCE
from South Africa and an extra £1.3m has been
earmarked for nationwide celebrations on 21 March,
IMAGE: GETTY

including a spectacular parade in the Independence

Cheetah stalks across a Stadium in the capital, Windhoek. CM
dune, Namib Desert namibiatourism.com.na

March 2020 71
THE COOL LIST
2 BA JA CA LI FO R N I A
N E W D I R E C T F L I G H T S // AWA R D - W I N N I N G W I N E R I E S // PA C I F I C S U R F
Now with direct access from the UK and a raft of new hotels, the
beaches, mountains and vineyards of Mexico’s Baja peninsula
are no longer just the preserve of holidaying Hollywood
A hop across the border from sunny southern California,
most Americans see Baja as an extension of the Golden
State itself. Following the launch of TUI’S DIRECT FLIGHTS
from Gatwick to Los Cabos, Baja California is within easy
reach of British travellers, too. Los Cabos itself is a tale of
two cities (or towns): laid-back, traditional San José del
Cabo and buzzing international Cabo San Lucas, linked
by ‘the corridor’ — a 20-mile, beach-fringed boulevard
flanked by an increasing number of resorts and hotels.
THE VICEROY, a white minimalist hotel that appears to
float over the sea, put Los Cabos on the map for five-star
hotels when it opened in 2018. Since then, a succession
of luxury resorts has followed suit, including the FOUR
SEASONS, a NOBU HOTEL and the WALDORF ASTORIA to
name a few, with an AMAN slated to open this year on
Baja’s peaceful East Cape overlooking the Sea of Cortez.
72 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Away from Baja’s semi-topical southern tip, you’ll find
a classic Mexican terrain: desert landscapes and sun-
baked canyons spiked with cactus and, in the peninsula’s
north, more than 150 wineries. Wine has been made in
this part of Mexico — the country’s major producing
area — for hundreds of years, but since the early 2000s,
the number of producers has skyrocketed. Baja’s
increasingly medal-winning vintages can be sampled
as part of tours, or with tasting menus at bodega (wine
cellar) restaurants; many, such as BRUMA VALLE DE
GUADALUPE are adding rooms overlooking the vines
and, in some cases, also the waves. And there’s no lack
of surf in Baja, a long thin state fringed by the Pacific to
the west, and the secluded Gulf of California to the east.
This is the place to kick back with a local microbrew,
grab a fish taco, and hit the water to scuba with abundant
marine life, including multiple species of whale, sharks,
sea lions, sea turtles and manta rays. SB
bajanorte.com visitmexico.com
FROM LEFT: Desert landscape near
Cataviña, Baja California; surfers,
San José del Cabo, Baja California;
dish at The Old Stamp House
Restaurant, Cumbria; The Cottage
in the Wood, Cumbria

3 LE BA N O N
N E W & R E L A U N C H E D T O U R S // B E K A A VA L L E Y
W I N E R I E S // B O U T I Q U E S I N B E I R U T
The FCO lifted restrictions on travel to swathes of the country
last year and UK travel companies are returning in droves,
opening up Lebanon’s archaeological treasures to tour groups
Lebanon is back on the travel map, and its IMPROVED
SAFETY CREDENTIALS are the catalyst. In 2019, the Foreign
and Commonwealth Office deemed it once again safe to
visit the northeast — including the picturesque Bekaa
Valley, home to a booming viticulture scene. Plus, there
are also the Roman temples of Baalbek and the Umayyad-
era ruins of Anjar, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Companies launching into or returning to the
region this year include COX & KINGS, EXPLORE and
UNDISCOVERED DESTINATIONS , while TRAVEL THE
UNKNOWN has tripled itineraries to include specialist
tours to lesser-known sights including the 160-million-
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; GETTY; PHIL RIGBY
year-old Baatara gorge waterfall.
Hikers should head for the Lebanon Mountain
Trail, stretching 293 miles down the country’s spine,
sections of which feature in itineraries by YELLOWWOOD
ADVENTURES. Meanwhile, the capital’s creative and
culinary scene blossoms apace, with luxury digs available
at ARTHAUS GEMMAYZE , scheduled to open in February.
Before booking your trip it’s worth checking the FCO
website for the latest updates as recent months have seen
anti-government protests, mainly in Tripoli. AD
visit-lebanon.org
THE COOL LIST
4 CUMBRIA
R E VA M P E D W O R D S W O R T H M U S E U M // M O R E
M I C H E L I N S TA R S // N E W C O A S T PAT H
It’s been 250 years since the birth of William Wordsworth
and the poet’s home county is as magnetic as ever, with fresh
attractions and the UK’s most exciting trio of restaurants
Wordsworth has often been called the first mindful
traveller, a man whose wide-eyed odes to the beauty of
the great outdoors still help to shape how we see our
landscapes. He was born in 1770 and spent the bulk of
his life in and around Cumbria’s Lake District, which was
then, as it is now, England’s most spectacular corner.
The 250-year anniversary year is being marked
in a number of ways, including a £6.2m facelift of
Wordsworth’s former Grasmere home, DOVE COTTAGE ,
and the adjacent WORDSWORTH MUSEUM , home to the
great man’s original letters, journals and manuscripts.
Elsewhere in the county, Whitehaven’s multimillion-
pound CUMBRIA COASTAL ACTIVITIES CENTRE is set to
open later in 2020, as are the official sections of the
2,795-mile ENGLAND COAST PATH .
For those who value good food after time on the
trail, Cumbria has three new Michelin stars, awarded
to THE COTTAGE IN THE WOOD at Whinlatter, ALLIUM AT
ASKHAM HALL and THE OLD STAMP HOUSE RESTAURANT at
Ambleside. It brings the county’s total to seven, making it
home to the most Michelin stars north of London. What
more excuse do you need to walk up an appetite? BL
visitcumbria.com visitengland.com
March 2020 73
THE COOL LIST
5 S LOV E N I A
N E W M E G A-T R A I L S // G A S T R O N O M Y
H O T S P O T // C H O C O L AT E -T H E M E D R E T R E AT
A mountain hiking route and multistage cycle trail give good
reason to visit the country in the run-up to its stint as next
year’s European Region for Gastronomy
Unveiled in late 2019, the JULIAN ALPS HIKING TRAIL
is a 170-mile walking route through the limestone
peaks that cover northwest Slovenia. Beginning on the
Italian border, it traces a fiercely beautiful route that
incorporates many of the destination’s established
highlights — including, yes, the lovely Lake Bled — as
well as lesser-known parts of the country. The trail
incorporates plenty of overnight accommodation, too.
No less enticing is the BIKE SLOVENIA GREEN project,
a diverse, multistage cycle route which launched in
November. Stretching for around 150 miles, it links
together a series of regions around the country — from
alpine valleys to wine-growing areas — all of which
have been awarded Slovenia Green certification for
sustainable practices.
And you won’t have to look far for a good meal.
Slovenia will spend 2021 as the official EUROPEAN REGION
FOR GASTRONOMY, in recognition of its quality local
produce. On which note, September saw the opening
a chocolate-themed glamping resort (yes, really):
CHOCOLATE VILLAGE , near Maribor, offers chocolate
breakfasts, chocolate massages and more. BL
slovenia.info
74 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Hikers on Mount Triglav, Slovenia
OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:
Beach, plate of grilled octopus
and guest with cocktail, all at
Isla Palenque, Panama
6 WA LE S
WA L E S WAY R O A D T R I P S // H E A R T O F WA L E S
L I N E H I K I N G T R A I L // C O A S TA L T R A I L S A P P
Three new touring routes, a long-distance walking trail and
a family-friendly app for navigating the Wales Coast Path are
bringing the country’s many charms to the fore
For a small country, Wales packs in a thunderous
amount of good stuff: the soaring peaks of Snowdonia,
the Atlantic cliffs of Pembrokeshire, ancient castles,
beaches, headlands and green hills. All told, it makes for
a spectacular road-trip destination, which is precisely
the thinking behind THE WALES WAY, the collective name
for a trio of new long-distance touring routes.
Between them, they cover three very different regions.
The shore-hugging, wildlife-rich Coastal Way runs from
the northern Llyn Peninsula down to Pembrokeshire,
while the North Wales Way takes in foodie hotspots
IMAGES: GETTY; MIKE DELL — COFFEE ABROAD
and Victorian resorts on its way from the English border
across to Anglesey. The longer Cambrian Way snakes
right through the heart of the country. All are intended
primarily as driving routes, but can also be done on foot.
Continuing this theme, 2019 also saw the official
opening of the HEART OF WALES LINE TRAIL , a 141-mile
hiking route that traces the path of the famously scenic
Heart of Wales rail line. The superb WALES COAST PATH ,
meanwhile, has seen the launch of a dedicated family-
friendly app, complete with augmented reality (AR)
animations and handy itinerary suggestions. BL
visitwales.com
 THE COOL LIST

7 PA N A M A
L U X U R Y E C O - R E T R E AT S // M O R E F L I G H T S

Synonymous with its canal, Panama has traditionally

been travelled through rather than travelled in, but new
forward-thinking eco-retreats are putting it on the map
This Central American country is packed with reasons
to linger — especially for nature-lovers. New sustainable
resorts are blossoming on its snaking Pacific coast,
which is home to the Isla Coiba marine preserve.
Trailblazing this eco-retreat boom with its 2018 launch,
ISLA PALENQUE set the standard for conservation-minded
hideaways. The Panama debut for Latin America’s
Cayuga Collection of high-end sustainable lodges, the
hotel’s eight design-forward beach villas are set in 400
acres of beach-fringed jungle. Meanwhile in December,
eco-retreat ISLAS SECAS opened up 14 rugged islands in
the Gulf of Chiriqui. Welcoming just 18 guests at a time,
this is proper castaway terrain, albeit of the barefoot
luxe variety, where 100% of the energy used is solar-
generated, water use is sustainable, and the spa offering
is a plush tent hidden in the jungle. And with MARRIOTT
also gunning for a 2020 arrival on nearby Pearl Island,
plus increased international access courtesy of NEW AIR
EUROPA ROUTES (via Madrid) and expanded Copa services
within Latin America, Panama is firmly on the map. SB
visitpanama.com

March 2020 75
THE COOL LIST

8 B R I S BA N E
WAT E R F R O N T R E G E N E R AT I O N // E P I C R A I L
J O U R N E Y // N E W N E I G H B O U R H O O D S

Mega developments, a boom in stylish hotels and a hip

laneways scene are giving the overlooked Queensland capital
an injection of cool
Long known as the River City, Brisbane is spreading the
good stuff further along the water’s edge. A £2bn plan
to transform QUEEN’S WHARF into a glitzy commerce
district is underway, hot on the heels of the new HOWARD
SMITH WHARVES , now open as an 8.5-acre, landscaped
public space with restaurants and a craft brewery. The
five-star, art-focused FANTAUZZO hotel has also opened
here, one of a string of additions to the hotel scene.
Elsewhere, the FORTITUDE VALLEY neighbourhood
has spruced up its once-grim laneways with indie shops
and small bars. There are new adventures to embark
upon, as well. YALINGBILA TOURS has launched the first
Aboriginal-owned whale-watching cruises, which head
down the river towards the sand islands of Moreton and
North Stradbroke. And, going further afield, AUSTRALIA’S
NEWEST LUXURY TRAIN JOURNEY is the three-day GREAT
SOUTHERN epic from Brisbane to Adelaide, which
launched in December. All in all, the city is sinking some
£5.25bn into surpassing Sydney as the country’s major
gateway — and it might just pull it off. DW
visitbrisbane.com.au australia.com

9 SALT LAKE CITY

N E W W I N T E R E S C A P E // D O W N T O W N
WAT E R I N G H O L E S // S O U L F O O D

The gateway to the American West is now open year-round

— Delta’s summer service from Heathrow to Salt Lake City has
extended to the winter season too
Curiosity has long been the main lure to Salt Lake City.
Temple Square — the Mormon equivalent of the Vatican
— offers somewhat ethereal grandeur and the world-
famous Tabernacle choir. But it’s the liveliness beyond
Temple Square that comes as a surprise.
The restaurant scene is booming, and diversifying in
the process. Recent openings include pan-Asian GINGER
STREET, Hawaiian joint ALOHA HALE ‘AINA and Southern
belly-stuffer ELLA LEE’S SOUL FOOD.
The drinking scene is changing too, despite Utah’s
heavy proportion of teetotallers. The Central Ninth
district, in particular, is pulling in tech workers from
California, and allowing experimental cocktail bars like
WATER WITCH to thrive.
IMAGES: RICHARD GREENWOOD; GETTY

Beyond the state capital, Utah’s spectacular national

parks are a big draw — and the red rock ruggedness
of Zion, Bryce Canyon and the Arches are much less
crowded in winter. That’s partly because everyone has
decamped to the ski resorts, such as Park City, which is
less than an hour’s drive from the airport. And, as well
as some of the finest snow conditions in North America,
there are plenty of quirks — such as being able to ski
straight into the High West whisky distillery. DW
visitutah.com visittheusa.co.uk

76 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 THE COOL LIST

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Howard Smith Wharves,
Brisbane; Zion National Park,
Utah; Great Southern train,
Brisbane to Adelaide

March 2020 77
 N A M I B I A

Otjimbondona offers those seeking luxury, exclusivity and tranquility the ideal African retreat.
Four luxurious Villas offering modern comforts in an exquisite Kalahari landscape, each decorated to depict a different theme.
The Villas offer complete privacy to complement the romantic setting.

Travel by air and enjoy front row seats to experience our wildlife, the vast picturesque African landscapes and the
freedom of travelling to remote locations in the comfort of your own private plane.

Tel:+264 81 243 5478 or Tel:+264 81 127 4358

welcome@otjimbondona.com
www.otjimbondona.com

10 Y E R E VA N
F I R S T B U D G E T F L I G H T S // B I G - B R A N D
H O T E L S // N E W S I L K R O A D I T I N E R A R I E S
New routes are opening up to the Armenian capital, one of the
world’s oldest continually inhabited cities
In recent years, radical adventure tour company
THE TRAVEL SCIENTISTS has offered one of the most
impractical ways to get to the Silk Road-era city
— driving a second-hand banger all the way there from
Istanbul on its Caucasian Challenge. Thankfully, 2020
will welcome another option: simply flying from Italy.
Launched in January, RYANAIR’S NEW ROUTES mean
that the Armenian capital can be reached from London
for UNDER £100 with that one simple connection — and
there’s chatter that fellow budget carrier Wizz Air will
soon follow suit with a rival route.
Why go? Well, the ancient city is receiving a
carefully considered update, with improved tourism
infrastructure, including several NEW HOTELS; big names
like Kempinski and Marriott opened there last year.
Such committed investment is a sign of confidence in
Yerevan’s stability, but travellers with an understanding
of history will have long had this 5,000-year-old city
on their radar. BLACK TOMATO and G ADVENTURES have
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES
launched tours in the last year, both focusing not only on
Yerevan’s rich past, but also its distinctive cuisine and
millennia-old wine traditions, capitalising on a growing
interest in the Silk Road. JL
armenia.travel
THE COOL LIST
Le Perko Café, Lyon
11 LYO N
I N T E R N AT I O N A L C I T Y O F G A S T R O N O M Y //
N E W M I C H E L I N S TA R S // D I N E O N A F I L M S E T
If your travels are driven by your taste buds, France’s gourmet
capital has upped the stakes with a major cultural centre
devoted to all things gastronomic
Taking up more than 43,000sq ft inside the Grand
Hôtel-Dieu, a former hospital, the INTERNATIONAL CITY
OF GASTRONOMY is a cultural space and food museum.
Touchscreens delve into the history of the Michelin
Guide and the philosophies of some of the great French
restaurateurs, while video games teach youngsters about
nutrition and tasting sessions are hosted by top chefs.
Much of the centre is devoted to the region’s produce
— there are 340 farms within the metropolitan area,
and 80 separate geographically protected AOC labels for
wines in the surrounding area. ORIGINAL FOOD TOURS
runs sampling tours focusing on a variety of experiences,
such as the Old Town’s artisans or the morning markets.
Dining out is Lyon’s strong suit, however, and the
scene refuses to stand still. LA SOMMELIÈRE is the newest
addition to the Michelin star list, with traditional French
dishes interpreted by Japanese chef Takafumi Kikuchi.
For a bit of movie magic, newcomer LE HANGAR offers
regional cuisine within the world’s first film set, used
by the Lumière brothers in 1895. In keeping with this
heritage, all dishes are photographed in the kitchen and
shown on a tablet screen before they’re served. DW
en.visiterlyon.com atout-france.com
March 2020 79
THE COOL LIST
12 E TH I O P I A
N E W F L I G H T S & E - V I S A S // F R E S H T O U R S //
M O R E A D D I S A B A B A A C C O M M O D AT I O N
Things continue to develop in Ethiopia — there are new tours,
improved safety and a tourism trade that’s growing faster than
anywhere else in Africa
The ghosts of the Ethiopian famines of the 1980s haven’t
been forgotten, but they’re no longer a fundamental
part of the country’s make-up. The shadow of war with
neighbouring Eritrea has been lifted, too, and suddenly
green, mountainous Ethiopia is one of the most exciting
places to visit in Africa, if not the entire world.
The government introduced ELECTRONIC VISAS in June
2018 and encouraged the construction of new hotels in
Addis Ababa, including a SOFITEL and SKYLIGHT HOTEL .
Transport provisions are on the up too; Addis Ababa Bole
International Airport added a NEW TERMINAL last year,
while DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM MANCHESTER have begun
with Ethiopian Airlines.
Travellers traditionally come to seek out the ancient
rock churches of Gheralta and Lalibela, but several tour
companies, including WILD FRONTIERS, are branching
out to offer tours of the Omo Valley with visits to tribes
including the Mursi, famous for their lip plates. JL
ethioembassy.org.uk/visit-ethiopia
13 CA I RO
L O N G - AWA I T E D A R C H A E O L O G Y M U S E U M //
N E W A I R P O R T S // H O L LY W O O D S P O T L I G H T
A murder mystery and a mega-museum anchored by
Tutankhamun’s treasures could propel Egypt back onto
travel bucket lists in the new decade
Tutankhamun’s treasures are getting a new home, a
‘hero’ attraction that could reboot the tourist image of
this magnificent North African city. Construction of THE
GRAND EGYPTIAN MUSEUM has been delayed, but should
be worth the wait. Set in Giza, where suburban Cairo slips
towards the sand, the collection includes 5,400 artefacts
from Tutankhamun’s tomb, many not seen since Carter’s
discovery of 1922. And in the meantime, 150 objects are
on display at TUTANKHAMUN: TREASURES OF THE GOLDEN
PHARAOH at London’s SAATCHI GALLERY until 3 May.
Terror attacks and political unrest have taken a toll,
but visitor numbers to this affordable destination are
ticking upwards. Cairo’s NEW AIRPORTS — Sphinx to
the city’s west and Capital to the east — and a highway
linking the city and the beach resort of Sharm el-Sheikh
(to which UK flights restarted in January) are helping.
Kenneth Branagh, meanwhile, reprises his role as
Hercule Poirot in DEATH ON THE NILE in October. POC
egypt.travel

14 LO S A N G E LE S
N E W M U S E U M O F M O T I O N P I C T U R E S // C O O L H O L LY W O O D H O T E L S // D O W N T O W N FA C E L I F T
LA’s faded Hollywood sheen is set for a serious polishing
in 2020 with the opening of the sensational new Academy
Museum of Motion Pictures, plus a glut of glamorous hotels
For a long time, the City of Angels and high expectations
made for poor bedfellows. A fi rst-time visitor could
be forgiven feeling distinctly underwhelmed by tired
Hollywood Boulevard or the old Downtown. Things
have since improved dramatically, however, with the
reimagination of DOWNTOWN as a hip neighbourhood
revitalising its historic streets.
While that continues apace, 2020 will be a banner year
for fi lm fans in Los Angeles thanks to the long-awaited
opening of the ACADEMY MUSEUM OF MOTION PICTURES
on Wiltshire Boulevard.
It’s set to be a very Hollywood affair, with the
IMAGES: GETTY
Academy’s vast resources — not to mention its colossal
collection of memorabilia — driving a lot of what’s on
display. As well as Dorothy’s original ruby slippers from
The Wizard of Oz and the typewriter Alfred Hitchcock
THE COOL LIST
FROM FAR LEFT: Tribesmen
of Kibish, Omo Valley,
Ethiopia; a coffee ceremony
in Debre Libanos, Ethiopia;
the Hollywood sign, Los
Angeles; Proper Hotel,
Downtown Los Angeles
used to write Psycho, the curators are also keen to
celebrate international cinema. One of the inaugural
exhibitions will be by the master Japanese animator and
founder of Studio Ghibli, Hayao Miyazaki, whose work
includes the highest-grossing fi lm in Japanese history,
Spirited Away, which not surprisingly won the Oscar
for Best Animated Feature in 2003. Also boasting two
theatres and a design led by the Pritzker Architecture
Prize–winning architect Renzo Piano, it’ll be one of the
most exciting museum openings of the year.
Significantly, too, the year ahead will also see a string
of glamorous new hotels jazzing up the downbeat
Hollywood neighbourhood. The 2020 openings include
THE GODFREY HOTEL HOLLYWOOD, among others, while
across the city in Downtown, hot on the heels of last
year’s much-anticipated opening, THE HOXTON , a branch
of PROPER HOTEL , will be opening its doors in a 1920s
redbrick former YWCA on Broadway. JL
discoverlosangeles.com visitheusa.co.uk
March 2020 81
THE COOL LIST
15 P U E R TO R I C O
L U X U R Y O P E N I N G S // M O R E R O U T E S //
COMEBACK K ID
Tourism on this intriguing Caribbean island is rebounding
from recent natural disasters, thanks to hotel openings,
improved routes and a whole new entertainment district
Puerto Rico has become a surprising poster child for
tourism comebacks. In 2017, Hurricanes Maria and Irma
blasted the island, leaving the US territory of 3.2 million
people devastated. Then, in December and January,
earthquakes rocked the island’s southwest. Despite this,
Puerto Rico is very much open for business. This year will
see the launch of EL DISTRITO, a five-acre entertainment
district in San Juan boasting an urban zip-line, 6,000-
seat venue, restaurants, rum distillery and more. Further
fillips include MARRIOTT ALOFT openings in the capital
and the city of Ponce and a FOUR SEASONS and golf course
in Cayo Largo. Access has improved too; Iberia has upped
its service from Madrid year-round; and new daily flights
with Spirit between San Juan, Newark and Boston.
Last year marked the 500TH ANNIVERSARY OF OLD SAN
JUAN , a UNESCO World Heritage Site where the island’s
Taíno, African and Spanish traditions mesh. December
2020, meanwhile, will see the premiere of Steven
Spielberg’s remake of WEST SIDE STORY.
So, there’s more reason than ever to experience the
island’s white sandy beaches, bioluminescent bays, rich
Caribbean history and tropical rainforest. POC
discoverpuertorico.com
82 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Dancing salsa in San Juan, Puerto Rico
OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
Canal houses, Galway; hikers in the
Aran Islands, in the mouth of Galway
Bay; plate of fresh oysters, Galway
16 PA K I S TA N
I M P R O V E D S A F E T Y // N E W E - V I S A S //
DIRECT FLIGHTS
A new top-down, pro-tourism policy has resulted in direct
flights from the UK, easier-to-obtain visas and a royal tour
— and visitor numbers are on the up
In the 1970s and 1980s, Pakistan was a highlight of the
backpacking circuit: hippies flocked to Lahore to soak up
the dazzling Mughal history then headed north, through
Peshawar, for meadows, mountain trails and tribal
homestays among the gemstone mines of the Hindu
Kush. Terrorism meted out by the Taliban then stymied
tourism to a mere trickle — but that’s all changing.
The FCO LIFTED TRAVEL RESTRICTIONS to much of the
north in 2015. Then, in 2018, former cricketer Imran Khan
became prime minister and introduced pro-tourism
policies. Last year, an $8 (£6) e-visa was introduced for
the UK and a confusing permit system was scrapped.
As a result, in June, a decade after the route was halted,
BRITISH AIRWAYS resumed DIRECT FLIGHTS from Heathrow
IMAGES: LYMA RODRÍGUEZ; GETTY
to the capital, Islamabad. A high-profile visit by the Duke
and Duchess of Cambridge followed in the autumn.
Returning travellers are discovering that the nation’s
charms remain largely unchanged, but warnings do
remain in place for many areas. For friction-free tours,
travel should be undertaken with a specialist operator,
such as WILD FRONTIERS, which has more than 20 years’
experience in the region. AD
tourism.gov.pk
 THE COOL LIST

17 G A LWAY
A R T & M U S I C // E U R O P E A N C A P I TA L O F
C U LT U R E // B E S T E AT S I N I R E L A N D

Galway’s trick is to effortlessly squeeze big-city sensibility and

college craic into small-town streets
On Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, Galway feels at once like
a global cultural crossroads and an intimate after-party.
It’s a perfect fit for EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE
2020, with a year-long programme designed to sync
with old Celtic calendar dates like Bealtaine (May Day)
and Samhain (Halloween). Events range across city and
county, from a modern version of one of the world’s oldest
stories, Gilgamesh, to a rock and dance festival at Galway
Airport and a Lumiere Galway finale lighting up the city.
Annual art, film, theatre and street feast events will feed
into the Galway 2020 spirit, too.
Hear traditional music at Tig Cóilí, and eat at casually
creative Irish foodie hubs like Kai, Dela and Ard Bia at
Nimmos; alternatively try Michelin-starred Aniar or
LOAM , which won the Michelin Guide’s Great Britain &
Ireland Sustainability Award 2020. Explore the bohemian
and eccentric Westend, dip into Charlie Byrne’s
Bookshop, or pull up a pew in pubs where you’ll suddenly
wonder where the past hour went. This is the year to get a
bit of Galway running through your veins. POC
galway2020.ie ireland.com

March 2020 83
 THE COOL LIST

FROM TOP: Leaf hat seller,

Quy Nhon; sunrise in
Ha Long Bay

18 V I E TN A M
N E W D E C A D E N T R E T R E AT S // I M P R O V E D
INFRASTRUCTURE

Vietnam is bolstering its credentials as a world-class

destination with a crop of stylish, high-end hotels that bring
luxury from the major cities to coastal idylls
It seems redundant to speak of Vietnam as a burgeoning
destination in light of the enduring popularity of its
iconic cities, postcard-perfect beaches and emerald
jungles. But recent and upcoming developments are
setting the stage for a new phase in its appeal.
The country’s FIRST METRO, in Ho Chi Minh City, is
being readied for 2021, with the noble goal of reducing
the city’s infamous motorcycle and car traffic.
And beyond the cities, the ethereal limestone spires
IMAGES: DYLAN VOERMAN WWW.DYLANV.COM; GETTY

and glittering waters of HA LONG BAY have become more

accessible with the opening of a NEW INTERNATIONAL
AIRPORT on the nearby island of Van Don, saving
travellers a four-hour drive from Hanoi.
Visitors can check into a glittering array of new hotels.
For some truly decadent luxury, ANANTARA QUY NHON
VILLAS is a villa-only resort in the coastal city of Quy
Nhon that offers in-villa wine cellars and the services
of private butlers. Looking ahead, MANDARIN ORIENTAL,
SAIGON will be launching later this year in the cool new
Union Square Saigon complex. Then, BAI SAN HO will
be opening in the second half of the year as a sprawling
resort of 71 suites and villas in Phu Yen. ZH
vietnam.travel

March 2020 85
ADULTS ONLY

Located in Puerto Calero, one of

the most prestigious and modern
marinas in Europe. It perfectly blends
the warmth of the architecture with
the natural environment infusing
the facilities with light and colour,
flawlessly embedding them into the
surroundings. Secrets Resorts & Spas
offer adults an escape to romance and
sensuality in spectacular oceanfront
settings. Each of our upscale resorts
combines exemplar and personal
service with casual, yet sophisticated
style.
SECRETSLANZAROTE.COM

19 TE L AV I V
N E W D I R E C T F L I G H T S // B O U T I Q U E B E D R O O M S // H O T H O S T E L S
Bolstered by Virgin’s direct flights from Heathrow, the
beachfront Israeli city is seeing an exciting bedroom boom
Is this the hottest city in the Med? Quite possibly, if the
crop of new hotels is anything to go by. The ‘non-stop
city’ has been living up to its moniker with an ever-
growing list of openings and extensions that means more
rooms than ever. Last year, trendy hotel THE LIGHTHOUSE
upped its room count to 160 and two openings — the
playful, retro-chic DAVE LEVINSKY and pod hotel WOM
ALLENBY — now offer affordable options in a city that
doesn’t come cheap.
And the year ahead brings even more. Design-led
HÔTEL BOBO will open its doors on the leafy Rothschild
Boulevard, channelling a decadent mantra of ‘bohemian
bourgeois’. Two further big-name openings are SOHO
HOUSE (marking the brand’s first opening in the Middle
THE COOL LIST
Selina, Tel Aviv
East) and NOBU, which will feature 38 rooms, gardens,
a pool and a private rooftop.
Perhaps the most interesting opening this March,
however, is SELINA . Founded by two Israelis, the
innovative hostel-meets-hotel already has a healthy
presence across Latin America, but this is the first
outpost in the entrepreneurs’ home country. With an
emphasis on catering to the digital nomad community,
it’s just moments from the beach in the laid-back
neighbourhood of Neve Tzedek. If there’s anywhere that
captures the youthful spirit of Tel Aviv, it’s this.
And if a spot of winter sun is on the cards, new daily
VIRGIN ATLANTIC FLIGHTS from Heathrow mean those
sun-drenched sands, legendary nightlife and outstanding
food are now little closer than ever before. CM
visit.tel-aviv.gov.il
March 2020 87
THE COOL LIST
20 R I O D E JA N E I RO
A R T Y N E W D I G S // C A P I TA L O F A R C H I T E C T U R E // N E W F L I G H T S
There’s never been any doubt that Rio is South America’s
most stylish city, but its billing as the world’s first Capital of
Architecture ups that accolade to international status
From flashy surf-front high-rises to sprawling favelas,
Rio’s architectural landscape is a representation of
its stark socio-economic contrasts. A recognition of
this drama of imbalance, UNESCO’s new designation
aims to demonstrate the crucial role of architecture
in sustainable urban development; CAPITAL OF
ARCHITECTURE will be a triannual forum of innovation,
discussion and inspiration for sparking urban planning
solutions. And with such landmarks as Santiago
Calatrava’s recently completed MUSEUM OF TOMORROW
and Christian de Portzamparc’s curvaceous concrete
CIDADE DAS ARTES cultural complex, there’s plenty to be
inspired by already.
88 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Joatinga Beach, Rio de
Janeiro, Brazil
This includes a cooler-than-cool new hotel designed by
one of Brazil’s most celebrated fashion designers, Oskar
Mestavaht. In the ever-chic Leblon neighbourhood,
JANEIRO comes with a floating rooftop pool whose blues
seem to bleed seamlessly into the Atlantic below.
If that doesn’t fit your aesthetic, try JO&JOE OPEN
HOUSE . Set to open later this year, these six houses in Rio’s
Cosme Velho neighbourhood reputedly set Accor back
20m Brazilian reais (£3.6m). The debut for the hotel brand
outside Europe, Accor is slated to invest an additional 30m
Brazilian reais (£5.5m) in renovating and furnishing the
heritage-listed property to transform it into a colourful
70-room hip hangout. And with Virgin Atlantic offering
IMAGE: GETTY
NEW DIRECT FLIGHTS TO NEARBY SÃO PAOLO, Brazil looks
like a wish-list destination far easier fulfilled. SB
visitbrasil.com
 Shipwreck Lodge

OFFERING Q UI N T E S S E N T I A L A DV E N T U R E S

Journeys Namibia is synonymous with a passion for
people and commitment to conservation and wildlife. Prepare for
an unforgettable experience while enjoying our warm Namibian
hospitality.
From hiking down the Fish River Canyon, overnighting in a
remote tree house in Western Etosha to exploring the dunes
of the Skeleton Coast on a quad bike, we will inspire you with a
memorable journey through Namibia.
Enjoy your first encounter with nature at Auas Safari Lodge, view
the edge of eternity from Fish River Lodge, walk in the footsteps
of giants at Grootberg Lodge, experience camping amongst
granite boulders at Hoada Campsite, become one of the pride at
Hobatere Lodge and unravel the mystery of the infamous
Skeleton coast at Shipwreck Lodge. Finally end your journey at
the exclusive family-oriented Little Forest Garden Retreat in the
Capital of Windhoek.
+264 61 228 104 | www.journeysnamibia.com

Auas Safari Lodge Little Forest Garden Retreat Guesthouse Fish River Lodge

Grootberg Lodge Hoada Campsite Hobatere Lodge: Tree House

Auas Safari Lodge | Little Forest Garden Retreat Guesthouse | Fish River Lodge
Grootberg Lodge | Hoada Campsite | Hobatere Lodge | Shipwreck Lodge
90 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SYMBOLS OF
SU RV I VA L
Sri Lanka’s wildlife is as extraordinary as it is diverse, but for
thousands of years it’s been the elephant that’s defined this country,
its image adorning temples as a talisman of protection. Each dry
season, the endangered creatures gather in Minneriya National Park in
their hundreds, creating one of the planet’s greatest natural spectacles

WORDS ADRIAN PHILLIPS

IMAGE: CHITRAL JAYATILAKE

March 2020 91
SRI LANKA
So, this is how my life will end.
I make myself as ball-like as
possible, face jammed between bent
knees, arms wrapped tight about
my head. A human hedgehog.
The gas burners hiss desperately, trying
to steer us clear, but there’s no time. It’ll
happen any moment now, probably in three,
two, one... The impact comes with a violent
confusion of creaking, snapping and splitting
— the sounds of wood under the utmost
strain, like a sailing ship battling a storm.
Branches drag sharply across the outside of
the basket, and we’re drenched in a stinging
shower of bark and lichen. All around is
the mighty heave and whoosh of displaced
boughs whipping back into place. Someone
gives a little scream.
And then, as suddenly as we’d entered
the maelstrom, we’re free of it and floating
away. My life hasn’t ended. Everybody starts
to unfold themselves and peer over the
edge of the basket, brushing bits from their
hair. “Sorry about the timber,” says our pilot
cheerfully as we climb away from the field
and its slightly dishevelled tree. “Thank
god there wasn’t an ants’ nest in there,” he
continues, pulling at the cords that open
vents to control the flight of the scarlet
balloon. “I went through a tree full of red
ants recently. Those buggers bite. All the
passengers were stripping off their clothes
and rolling around the floor.”
Dawn is breaking above central Sri Lanka,
the grey light warming to blue. There’s no
better way of getting the lay of the land than
from a hot air balloon. Our ragged take-off
was from a spot near Kandalama Reservoir
and now we’re drifting westwards over
Dambulla, its Royal Cave Temple hidden
somewhere below, and on towards the
vast Ibbankatuwa Reservoir. The clench-
fisted silhouette of the Knuckles Mountain
Range punches the southern horizon, while
92 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
directly below us is a glorious patchwork of
paddy fields.
“What is it about ruddy towers?” mutters
Justin as a radio mast looms, and he flares
the burners to make a lazy leapfrog over
the top. Justin is from Great Missenden, in
Buckinghamshire, but he spends the months
between October and May running balloon
trips in Sri Lanka. “Flying conditions are
tough because it gets gusty. And landing is
a lottery,” he adds, disconcertingly. “There
always seems to be a bloody tree in the way.”
But he’s survived 14 years of coming here,
and the views make up for the odd choppy
touchdown. “Isn’t it amazing what nature
creates?” he muses as we pass a pair of rock
formations rising from the yellow-green
crops like sugar loaves; so smooth and
perfect you’d think they’d been fashioned
by design rather than the elements. The sun
is higher now, and our balloon casts a heart-
shaped shadow on the ground. Farmers at
harvest straighten up to shield their eyes and
watch us. A dog barks madly at the balloon,
tearing along a hedgerow in its determination
to bring down this thing in the sky.
We land an hour later — softly, thankfully,
at the edge of a rather waterlogged field
— and Justin hands round glasses of
Champagne, “Because any flight you walk
away from is a good flight!” I don’t mention
the one thing that would’ve made it better:
an elephant. It was special to spot peacocks
fanning their tails, of course, and yesterday
I was accompanied on my slog up the 1,200
steps of Sigiriya’s ancient fortress by a gang
IMAGE: GETTY
of torque monkeys, swaggering loose-
limbed along rocky ledges as if they owned
the place.
 SRI LANKA

Lion Rock, viewed from

Pinduragala Rock
PREVIOUS PAGE: Peacock,
Wilpattu National Park

March 2020 93
SRI LANKA

94 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 SRI LANKA

We watch a pair The wildlife in Sri Lanka is various and
extraordinary. But it’s the elephant that,
of babies tussle for 2,000 years, has defined this country;
and chase each ever-present in its art, its architecture, its
religious symbolism — but, three days in, I’m
other around yet to see a single specimen in the flesh.
their mothers.
One of them trips The gathering
On the fourth day, that changes in one
over a tussock and glorious fell swoop. It’s late afternoon as we
tumbles onto its drive through dry evergreen forest into the
heart of Minneriya National Park. Beside me
back, legs akimbo, in our four-wheel-drive vehicle is Prithiviraj
before clambering Fernando — known simply as ‘The Doctor’
hastily to its feet — a man who’s devoted his life to studying
elephants. “My father insisted I should be a
and trying to medical doctor,” he admits, “and so I took all
look dignified the qualifications and joined a hospital. But
I gave it up at the end of my very first day. For
me, it had to be elephants.”
The forest thins and we reach a steep
bank that drops to a shallow river. Our
driver coaxes the vehicle over the bank,
the wheels skidding down the slope, before
IMAGES: GETTY; CHITRAL JAYATILAKE
and elephants in groups, elephants tugging
up tufts of grass to eat and elephants cooling
themselves in the shallows. They call it
‘The Gathering’. From February — as the
climate becomes drier and the waters recede
elsewhere — the animals start coming
each evening to the shore of the Minneriya
Reservoir. And they keep on coming. “By
July, there’ll be 150 elephants here, and in
September, 300,” says The Doctor. “The whole
plain gets covered with them.” This is surely
one of the planet’s great wildlife spectacles,
but few people seem to have heard of it.
We watch a pair of babies tussle and chase
each other around their mothers. One of
them trips over a tussock and tumbles onto
its back, legs akimbo, before clambering
hastily to its feet and trying to look dignified.
All the while, as we’ve been absorbed by this
cameo, an adult female with a hairy lower
lip has moved slowly towards us, innocently,
never looking exactly in our direction, but
sidling, as if the juiciest cuts of grass have
happened to pull her our way. Suddenly, she

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:
Elephants approaching a lake;
conservationist Prithiviraj Fernando,
known as ‘The Doctor’; and a family of
elephants, all in Minneriya National Park
accelerating fiercely through the water and
lurching up the side. As we emerge, I’m so
preoccupied with checking that my fillings
are still in place that it takes a nudge from
The Doctor to alert me to the scene ahead.
Opening before us is a grassy plain
wrapping around the edge of an enormous
lake, and on the plain are 40 — maybe 50
— elephants. There are solitary elephants
abandons the pretence and runs towards
the vehicle, and our driver has to hurry the
vehicle into gear and make a speedy retreat.
It’s an incident to suggest all isn’t quite as
it seems in this peaceful place. Beneath the
calm, currents are swirling, and occasionally
they break the surface in a flurry of
whitewater. “A few elephants can be a bit
aggressive,” The Doctor explains.

March 2020 95
SRI LANKA
“Some have had a bad experience with people.”
As if on cue, a young male limps into view, as
best he can, keeping weight off one foreleg.
“See the puncture wound on his shoulder?”
The Doctor says. “He was probably shot.”
He might survive. The Doctor speaks of
another elephant that manages well enough
on three legs after being hit by a train — but
either way he’s a stark, broken reminder of
the problem of human-elephant conflict
in Sri Lanka. Last year, 320 elephants were
killed. They weren’t the victims of poachers
because Asian elephants are usually
tuskless. Instead, they fell into cultivation
pits, or were hit by vehicles or were shot by
terrified villagers protecting their paddy
fields. And 70 people were killed too,
colliding with elephants while riding their
motorbikes at night or trampled as they tried
to scare them away from the rice stores that
feed their families.
Sri Lanka has the highest density of
Asian elephants in the world, and, as more
land is farmed, the paths of people and
elephants cross more frequently. For 70
years, the authorities have endeavoured to
confine elephants to national parks. They’ve
corralled them there, over long distances,
using vehicles to scare them along. They’ve
erected electric fences around the parks
— over 2,670 miles of them, so much fencing
it could stretch twice around the country.
Despite all this, the majority of elephants
remain outside these areas.
“Elephants have traditional ranges,”
The Doctor explains. “One elephant was
translocated 60 miles east but found its
way back within a month. Another was so
desperate to get home, it lost its bearings
and swam three miles out to sea. There was a
huge operation to tow it back in.’
For all its good intentions, the policy of
ring-fencing the elephants hasn’t worked
— indeed, it’s exacerbated the problem
by making some of them suspicious and
grumpy, like the hairy-lipped matriarch on
the plain. “The surprising thing isn’t how
96 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
many people are killed each year but how Over millennia,
few,” sighs The Doctor. “My team and I
have the solution though,” he continues.
the Bo Tree has
“A way to let people and elephants live survived storms,
together — I can show you.” But not now, he sackings and even
apologises, leaving me hanging, for dusk is
close and there are spots of rain in the air. a vandal’s attempt
We agree to meet later during my trip. to chop it down
Guardians of the temples in 1929. The big
In the meantime, I want to see some temples. question, of course,
Central Sri Lanka contains the so-called
Cultural Triangle, a region rich in UNESCO-
is whether it would
listed architecture, and at the triangle’s apex survive Justin in
is the ancient capital of Anuradhapura. Next his balloon
day, I’m taken there by Chitral, of local tour
operator Nature Trails, to visit some of the
country’s earliest and holiest sites, built
when Buddhism was in its infancy.
Holiest of all is the Mahabodhi Temple
Complex, which surrounds the Sacred Bo
Tree, grown from a sapling of the fig tree
beneath which Buddha was said to have
attained enlightenment. It’s been here
since 288 BC and is believed to be the oldest
human-planted tree in the world; its gnarled
branches supported by golden props. Over
thousands of years the tree has survived
storms, sackings of the city and even a
vandal’s attempt to chop it down in 1929. The
big question, of course, is whether it would
survive Justin in his balloon.
What most draws my attention, though,
are the chunky, weatherworn stone
IMAGES: 4CORNERS; GETTY; CHITRAL JAYATILAKE
elephants that stand sentry at the temple
gates. Moustachioed attendants might be
checking our tickets, but there’s no doubt
where the symbolic power lies. “Elephants
were engines of war at the time these temples
were built,” Chitral explains. “They represent
strength and protection.”
Nowhere is more strongly protected than
the nearby Ruwanwelisaya. Sealed inside its
FROM TOP LEFT: Carved elephants;
vast dome — once the tallest building in Asia domed stupas, the larger of which
— is the largest collection of Buddha’s relics contains a significant collection of
anywhere, and that merited a supersized Buddha’s relics; and Kanchuka Pooja
quota of elephants. They emerge, shoulder ceremony, all at Ruwanwelisaya
SRI LANKA

March 2020 97

Villagers seek
protection from
elephants in this
temple protected
by elephants, while
somewhere out
there are the former
protectors, now
themselves in
need of protection.
How complicated
the relationship
has become
IMAGE: SHAMINDRA FERNANDO
Workers tend to paddy fields,
Galgamuwa region
to shoulder, from the perimeter wall, 338
in total — one for every foot of the stupa’s
height. It’s an impressive, imposing show
of force.
Just as we pass between them, drums
strike up, softened by the snake-charming
drawl of a reedy trumpet, and a crocodile
procession of people starts filing towards
and around the stupa. A bowl of burning
incense is borne aloft at the front, its
smoke unfurling above the procession. I’m
reminded of a slow-moving steam train.
“We’re lucky — this only happens once a
month, on the full moon,” Chitral tells me,
crouching to take a photo. There are probably
around 200 people involved, young and old,
each of them dressed entirely in white and
holding a seemingly endless strip of orange
cloth. Once the circuit is complete, monks
in orange robes take over and pin the cloth
around the whitewashed stupa, like a ribbon
on a decorated egg.
“These villagers will have saved up
for the right to perform this ceremony.
It’s expensive. They’ll only do it once,”
Chitral says. He explains they do it in the
hope of receiving good favour, of enjoying
good harvests and good health, of having
crops and lives spared from roaming
elephants. They seek protection from
elephants in this temple protected by
elephants, while somewhere out there are
the former protectors, now themselves in
SRI LANKA
need of protection. How complicated the
relationship has become. Where are the
guardians now?
I look for them the following morning on
sacred Ritigala Mountain, among the ruins
of ancient temples swallowed by jungle
creepers and in lonely caves where monks
withdrew from the world. And in the nearby
village of Rambewa, where a charismatic
master called Ritigala Sumedha keeps alive
an ancient martial art under the spreading
branches of a banyan tree. His disciples wear
colourful sarongs while they leap and kick,
punch and lunge, and spin bamboo staffs
above their heads until the air sings. The
purpose is to develop the soul rather than
to kick butt, I’m told, and afterwards the
master leads a prayer of thanks to the earth
and everything in it. When a leaf falls from
the banyan, it’s removed before it can be
trodden on. “We won’t disrespect something
that’s sheltered us for centuries,” the master
says solemnly.
The Doctor’s cure
Spiritual guardians remind those who’ll
listen of our place in the order of things,
but what of the practical guardians,
those with a contemporary solution to a
contemporary problem? Next morning I take
a potholed track westwards for my follow-up
appointment with The Doctor. He’s asked
me to meet him in the region of Galgamuwa,
March 2020 99
SRI LANKA
which has witnessed some of Sri Lanka’s
worst human-elephant conflict, and when
I arrive there’s a welcoming party of locals
eager to tell me their story.
Bulugolla is a village of just 17 families;
simple farmers who tend their paddy fields
and live in houses with iron roofs. For four
generations they existed happily enough, but
20 years ago elephants started to come. “They
took our coconuts and pulled down the walls
of our houses to get to the bags of rice,” says
one. “A few people were killed,” adds another.
Nobody slept. On starless nights, they’d lie
listening for the rattle of the tin cans strung
around their gardens, a crude early-warning
system to alert the villagers to approaching
elephants. Out in the fields, the men kept
watch on wooden platforms, shouting and
setting off firecrackers when a herd arrived in
a desperate bid to save their crops. “Everyone
was scared. Some families moved away.”
Then The Doctor visited, and he brought
a new idea. “For decades, we’d been trying to
put fences around elephants,” he explains. “I
decided to try putting fences around people.”
Under The Doctor’s supervision, they set
about building an electric fence around
Bulugolla. Wires were strung between posts,
and the posts themselves were electrified
(thus avoiding the situation in national parks,
where elephants had learned they could
push posts over without getting a shock).
“Elephants are clever,” says The Doctor.
100 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
“They’ve also learned to flatten fences by
laying logs on them. This fence is flexible
so it bounces back up if something knocks
it down.” There are temporary fences too,
powered by portable solar panels, to protect
paddy fields during the growing season.
But has it worked? “In five years, no one has
been killed and no house has been damaged,”
explains Mr K G Wijeratna, who’s president of
the Bulugolla Fence Committee, and proudly
writes his name and title on a piece of paper
for me. “There were 35 elephants outside the
village last night, but no problem!” another
villager chips in. “We can sleep, our palms
have coconuts and our children are safe.” “And
after my son touched the fence, he knows not
to do that again,” Wijeratna adds.
In this country of masters and monks,
sacred trees and holy mounts, it’s a ‘doctor’
who’s answered the prayers of the Bulugolla
villagers. For them, the conflict is over; people
and elephants can coexist. The next step is
to convince the government to roll out the
solution nationwide.
Before I leave Sri Lanka, I meet a monk at
Mihintale Mountain whose wise words stay
with me long after we part ways: “Buddha
told his priests to go in different directions.
Walk the same path and there will be conflict
— you must find your own way.” Like the good
Doctor, I think. He’s walked a different path,
found his own way to the answer. Now the
challenge is to get others to follow.
Giant seated Buddha at Mihintale
Mountain, a sacred site and
monastery near Anuradhapura
ESSENTIALS
INDIA
Bay of
Bengal
Anuradhapura
MIHINTALE
MOUNTAIN
SRI LANKA
Colombo
Sri Jayawardenepura
Kotte
INDIAN OCEAN
GALGAMUWA MINNERIYA
NATIONAL PARK
Bulugolla
SIGIRIYA
Dambulla Lake Kandalama
DAMBULLA ROYAL
5 Miles CAVE TEMPLE
Getting there & around
British Airways, Emirates and Etihad
Airways have indirect flights to
Colombo from UK airports. Only Sri
Lankan Airlines flies there direct, from
Heathrow. ba.com emirates.com
etihad.com srilankan.com
Average flight time: 10h30 (direct);
13h30 (one stop).
Sri Lanka has a decent rail and bus
network and roads are largely well
maintained. A hire car with driver will
cost from about £40 a day.
When to go
Sri Lanka can be visited at any time of
year, although the wettest months in
the Cultural Triangle are between
October and December. Peak season is
January to April, and sites are therefore
more crowded and prices higher. The
climate tends to be hot and humid all
year, and temperatures rarely fall below
the mid-20Cs (even at night).
How to do it
IMAGE: ALAMY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
NATURE TRAILS offers an eight-night
wildlife and culture tour of Sri Lanka,
featuring Minneriya National Park,
Anuradhapura, Ritigala (a village famous
for its martial arts), Sigiriya, hot air
ballooning, whale-watching at
Trincomalee, and more, from £2,700 per
person. This includes accommodation at
the Cinnamon Lodge Habarana and
Trinco Blu by Cinnamon, guides, park
fees and internal transport, but excludes
international flights. amonhotels.com
cinnamonnaturetrails.com
 Heritance Kandalama
An architectural phenomenon and eco-friendly
paradise that perfectly captures the island’s
biodiversity - an experience that one simply
cannot escape.

Heritance
Tea Factory
Your next getaway is
located far from sea
level. Step into the
19th century at this
stunning hotel

Heritance Ayurveda Heritance Negombo

converted from
a tea factory.

Let nature take the upper hand as you detox and
cleanse your mind, body and soul. Heritance
Ayurveda offers a holistic wellness immersion
tailored to your needs.
Heritance Negombo, situated just 20
minutes from the international airport
perfectly blends the modern with the
eclectic and is as impressive as its
location.

Heritance Ahungalla
Explore the endless expanse of blues
and revel in the glor y of breathtaking
sunsets - your tropical vacation begins
here!

WHE R E TRA DITION IS A LIVE!

T : +94 112 308 408 | ashmres@aitkenspence.lk | www.heritancehotels.com

GUYANA
RISING
The interior of this South American nation is a natural kingdom
presided over by giant spiders and armoured fish, but in its
eco-lodges and villages, indigenous Amerindian communties
are navigating a new era in the development of their wilderness

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS JAMIE LAFFERTY

102 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
March 2020 103
GUYANA
As our turboprop plane navigates
a corridor of puffy clouds, Guyana’s
Atlantic coast is exchanged for an
infinite sea of green.
Along with seven others, I’m high above
this one-time British colony, heading deep
into its vast interior. Below, varicose rivers
channel brown water through the jungle.
There are no roads, no towns, no farms.
The only hints of human impact are the
occasional ugly gouges along riverbanks
— the remnants of gold mines. Thankfully,
those man-made scars are a miniscule part
of this colossal, riotous whole.
We’re heading to Rewa, one of Guyana’s
most remote villages, close to the western
border with Brazil. From a dusty airstrip, we
transfer to motorised canoes, then continue
down the Essequibo River to Rewa Eco-
Lodge. We only left our hotel in the Guyanese
capital, Georgetown, a few hours ago but the
modern world already feels very far away.
Built in 2005 and run entirely by the local
Amerindian community, the eco-lodge
accommodation is rustic but comfortable.
In the two days I’m here, I find four frogs
hiding in my toilet and three lizards on the
walls. One of the other guests is joined in his
cabin by a pink-toed tarantula (as much as
I love wildlife, I’d understand if he kept one
eye open at night). I have no such problems,
the distant, dread calls of howler monkeys
making for a curious lullaby.
For those living this remotely, the Rewa
and Essequibo Rivers are vital transport
networks — essential highways through the
untamed jungle. For us foreigners, they’re
our primary routes for excursions into
the wild.
The following day, we head downriver for
around an hour, powerful engines shooting
us across the smooth surface at an electric
clip. These boats have revolutionised travel
for this community, allowing them to
104 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
transport goods and people with far greater
efficiency than their old dug-out canoes.
That’s not to say they’re perfect — after a bug
hits me on the shoulder with the force of a
paintball, I spend the rest of my journey with
my mouth closed and sunglasses on.
As we race along the river, ringed
kingfishers and white-tipped swallows
match our pace, following us like jets
accompanying a jumbo. We also spot yellow-
billed terns and scarlet macaws. Time seems
to slow when the massive wings of a startled
cocoi heron gradually carry it aloft. Later,
high in the canopy, we’ll see the great potoo,
which sounds like a tribal leader but is
actually a small, nocturnal, owl-like bird.
This is the sort of environment that can
make a twitcher of the most avian-averse
visitor. There are over 1,000 bird species
in the sprawling, 883,400sq mile area of
northeast South America known as the
Guiana Shield, from the lethal harpy eagle
to hummingbirds so fast and tiny as to
seem imagined. However, on this trip we’re
to meet one of their mortal enemies: the
goliath birdeater spider.
We disembark at what looks, to my
untrained eyes, like a random spot in the
jungle. In fact, half-an-hour’s walk from here,
researchers found a thriving population of
these tarantulas and they have now become
an unlikely visitor attraction. In reality, the PREVIOUS PAGES:
spiders only rarely attempt to eat birds, but Kaieteur Falls
they’re the world’s heaviest arachnid and CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
A riverside breakfast
generally enjoy life in the jungle unmolested
at Rewa Eco-Lodge;
by any other creature.
Guianan cock-of-the-
We plunge into the green, daylight fading rock; goliath birdeater,
as the silent river is left behind, humidity a thriving population
tightening around us like a boa constrictor. of which live in the
Our guide, Vivian, moves with the swiftness Guyanese rainforest
 GUYANA

March 2020 105

GUYANA
of a man native to this environment, while I
stumble around like a drunkard in a library.
As well as the unending worry of
stepping on one of the spiders, my eyes feel
overwhelmed by my surroundings. Some
of the larger trees are being inexorably
devoured by termites, with ghost leaves
hanging from dying boughs. There are spiny
palms that could easily cut open my arms
and burrowing ticks hanging from sticks,
eager to feast on the next passing beast.
There are more benign sights, too — mosses,
ferns, vines, roots, fungi, new growth, old
growth, some things withering, many more
thriving — but it certainly feels hostile to
me, and fitting that this kingdom should be
ruled by giant spiders.
Eventually, we find one of these fat
terrors outside its nest, its green-black
form seeming to drain what little light is
piercing the canopy. Perhaps exhausted
after shedding its old skin, it’s in no mood to
move. I’m in no mood for it to do so. As well
as having a ferocious, poisonous bite, the
goliath has the ability to shake loose hairs
from its considerable legs, which can irritate
the airways and skin of would-be predators.
We take what photos we dare before
returning to the river and I feel like I’ve come
up for air after a dive that’s lasted a bit too
long. From here, we’ll begin our journey back
to the lodge, but en route, staff meet us on
a large, sandy riverbank, where they set up
tables and chairs so that we may dine under
the stars.
Lodge manager Dickie Alvin is there too
and, while a fire is lit and the meal prepared,
he talks to our group, a waxing moon
illuminating him from on high. “In our first
year, we had just one single visitor and the
local community wondered what we were
doing,” says Dickie, who’s been involved
with the project since the start. “The next
year, it was three, then suddenly we had 18
Americans visit at the same time. When
the children from the village saw them, they
ran away. I had to explain that they were
our friends.”
Rewa now attracts around 200 visitors
a year (Dickie says he wouldn’t want that
figure to exceed 400). This is thanks
largely to its impressive roster of fauna:
giant otters and jaguars, as well as
the extraordinary range of birds and
disturbingly muscular spiders. Lagoons
off the main river are also home to gigantic,
endangered arapaimas, surface-breathing
106 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
armoured fish that have been the focus of
local conservation efforts.
“People who come here from different
countries love to see what we have,” explains
Dickie. “Now our community understands
how important our environment and
resources are. The income helps our
communities, especially the school.”
As Dickie is talking, I notice that the chefs
preparing our dinner are cutting off bits of
the sticks holding a large peacock bass
above the fire. As the flames dwindle, they
shorten the sticks, rather than add more fuel.
“I get asked if I want to expand, but more
buildings and more boats would maybe scare
away the animals,” Dickie says.
Tides of change
At the 2.5-mile marker on the dusty road to
Surama Eco-Lodge, there’s a sign that reads:
‘Development is a Human Right It Belongs
to Every One’. Throughout the rest of my
time in Guyana, I often find myself thinking
of that sign, and not just because of the
curious grammar.
Surama was one of the first eco-lodges
in Guyana, and it’s often championed as
an exemplar of the concept in these parts.
During our visit, it’s receiving a major
refurbishment of its main buildings — a
telltale sign of how well-established it is.
We head next to the nearby Makushi
Cultural Village, originally built as part
of a film set. Today, community leader
Glendon Alicock, his extended family and
a handful of adolescents from Surama
village, use the place to demonstrate fast-
fading Amerindian traditions. There’s no
doubting the sincerity of their project, even
if at times feels a little kitsch — the cultural
displays include some singing and dancing,
during which many of the embarrassed
teenagers look like they, too, would like to
shed their skin.
Later, while some of the youngsters grind
cassava into flour, Glendon regales us with
stories of killing a jaguar that had come
into a family home, and explains from
which birds his extraordinary headdress is
assembled. “I’m a real child of the forest,” he
says with unmistakable pride. “I was born
out here, not in some sophisticated hospital.”
Glendon is content, too, he says, with how
this cultural preservation project is going. Amerindian villagers
“For a time, all of our grown youths were demonstrating traditional ways
gone, but now these young ones have stayed,” of life at Makushi Cultural Village
he explains. “I think our culture is coming
 GUYANA

March 2020 107

GUYANA

108 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

FROM LEFT: Barbecued
fish and tree grubs; a sign
on the road to Surama
Eco-Lodge; fire used
as insect repellent at
Makushi Cultural Village
back now, and perhaps sharing it with the
world will help.”
As I’m offered some barbecued tree grubs
and a glass of local punch known as fly
(“Drink too much and you’ll feel like you’re
flying!”), Glendon offers some forthright
opinions on organised religion and, in
particular, language. Listening to him talk,
it’s easy to sympathise with his concerns
that English has steamrollered the Makushi
tongue — and his annoyance at how many
missionaries came here looking to sell the
god business to people who’d survived
millennia without it.
Yet, at least with language, there are
some upsides, too. The nation being almost
exclusively English-speaking adds an
element of the uncanny for outsiders like
me — the Amerindians of Guyana’s interior
look ethnically similar to tribes deeper in
the Amazon, yet speak with a soft, almost
Caribbean lilt. This means discussing
development and ecology requires no
translation for one thing, but for another it
allows them to follow international news to
learn about threats to their environment.
Yet there are always temptations to give up
some of what they have. Back at Rewa, inside
the office of the toushao, or chief, Rudolph
Edwards had explained that there have
been offers over the years from Brazilian
and Chinese mining and oil companies
GUYANA
to develop the land. “We looked at what
would happen and we were worried about
the environment and our animals,” he said.
“They proposed a road and a bridge, but we
thought of the damage and so we said no.
Yes, it would be good to get money in our
pockets but in the long term the negatives
would outweigh the positives.”
These foreign companies may well
describe such work as development, but
to the people of the Rewa region it would
more obviously mean pollution. So far,
the government in Georgetown has been
supportive of its Amerindian population, a
story not commonly repeated in other parts
of the continent.
As it stands, the people of Rewa and
Surama seem content to enjoy comparatively
humble gains, welcoming controlled
numbers of visitors while preserving what
often feels like an Edenic environment.
That’s not to say their lives are prehistoric
— the internet has recently come to both
villages. It was encouraging to hear people
speak optimistically about improved
connectivity. “It’s already improving things
in terms of education, communication and
messaging between us and the government,”
Rudolph explained. “We aren’t really using it
for fun or whatever.”
Internet, motorised canoes and solar
power are just some of the ways in which
March 2020 109
JAPAN | INDIA | CANADA | CHINA

CAMBODIA | THAILAND | VIETNAM

INDONESIA | SRI LANKA

020 3510 5022

www.vivid.travel

EXTRAORDINARY TRAVEL MADE

EXTRAORDINARILY EASY
TM

life is changing in Guyana’s interior. But
the focus seems to be on improving what
they have, not mercilessly chasing profit.
Development may or may not be a human
right, but for now these communities are still
able to interpret it as they wish.
The secrets of Kaieteur
As it turns out, the most striking
interruption to Guyana’s great green expanse
isn’t man-made at all. From another small
plane, mighty Kaieteur Falls appears as a
gorgeous tear in this infinite carpet of trees.
The propellers have barely stopped
spinning before we’re following a guide for
15 minutes along a narrow path, then
emerging on a cliff edge, the giant waterfall
waiting for us as it does for a few thousand
visitors each year. If Guyana has anything
that can be regarded as a tourist attraction,
then Kaieteur is it.
Dumping the Potaro River 741ft over its
precipice, it’s the world’s largest single-
drop waterfall by volume. There’s a near
constant shimmer of rainbows jetting out of
its beautiful belly. More than that, its mists
breathe life into a yawning valley, sustaining
everything from jaguars to tiny golden tree
frogs that live their whole lives inside giant
tank bromeliads.
Despite how ludicrously photogenic it is,
ABOVE: Local guide Kaieteur Falls is far from crowded. I’ve seen
Vivian looks out across many of the world’s most famous waterfalls:
the Rewa basin squeezing in with the masses at Iguazu
GUYANA
Falls, dodging selfie sticks at Niagara Falls,
patiently waiting for bus groups to move out
of the way at Iceland’s near-frozen Skógafoss.
Within moments of seeing it, I realise that
Kaieteur is indeed something special.
Aside from dropping your camera
into its unguarded abyss, it’s hard to
imagine how you could take a bad photo
here and yet, during our visit, we’re the
only people present.
If the falls were all Kaieteur National
Park had to offer, it’d still be absolutely
worth the journey, but every night in the
sky above, a colossal 20,000-strong flock
of swifts gathers like a storm cloud. As
more and more birds arrive, they seem to
be waiting to reach a critical mass before
plunging headlong towards Kaieteur like
black rain. Their goal is their roost in a cave
behind the watery curtain.
On the night we’re there, just before
the swifts begin this fraught ceremony, a
red-breasted hawk begins a skulduggerous
patrol beneath them, forcing them into a
tight, black ball, like sardines being stalked
by dolphins.
In 2004, the brilliant — and strange
— German filmmaker Werner Herzog
released The White Diamond, a documentary
largely shot on location in Guyana. Some of
the most memorable scenes were captured
around Kaieteur when the director’s on-site
physician asked to be lowered over the edge
to see where the swifts go.
March 2020 111
GUYANA
A local ranch hand on the lookout
for giant anteaters at Waikin Ranch
As Herzog explained in his distinct cadence:
“From the bottom of the falls, the gigantic
cave is inaccessible and has resisted all
attempts by explorers.”
The director opted to send a camera over
the edge too, so that the dangling doctor
could reveal Kaieteur’s secrets. Yet,
tantalisingly, he then opted not to include
the footage in his final film. The physician
— very much cut from Herzog’s profoundly
weird cloth — said of the experience: “I
had the feeling of weightlessness at the
beginning and a sense of deep space, which
ends in a black nothingness.”
Standing looking over this tremendous
valley, I can understand the decision not to
give away the mystery. It’s surely inevitable
that Kaieteur Falls will soon begin to
receive more visitors — this magnificent
site can only be ignored for so long. The
infrastructure will need to improve, even
though any development will surely remove
something of the organic thrill of seeing it so
elementally raw today.
Currently, the majority of visitors are
day-trippers, taking an hour-long flight
from Georgetown on small planes similar
112 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
to ours, walking a set path along its
edge, then leaving before sunset and the
swifts’ daredevil display. There’s only one
accommodation option: a battered cabin
that looks one big rainy season away from
collapse, although there are already plans for
it to be replaced with something sturdier. It
can only be hoped that development of this
singular site is handled with as much care as
Rewa and Surama.
What Guyana was, what it is and what
it could be are all very different things.
The ghosts of the colonial era may belong
to Guyana’s past, and eco-tourism to its
present and future, but Kaieteur is the
nation’s constant. Whatever is to come, it’ll
be there. It was flowing when the Union Jack
was first raised in Georgetown in 1812 and
in May 1966 when The Golden Arrowhead
of Guyana replaced it. It was flowing when
the first sugar cane was harvested along
the Demerara River and it was flowing
when the first hammocks were hung at
Rewa Eco-Lodge. Guyana can, at times,
be an unpredictable place, but there’s one
certainty: Kaieteur Falls is flowing as you
read this now.
ESSENTIALS
Georgetown
GUYANA
KAITEUR FALLS
Es
q
se
ui
b
o Rive r
SURAMA ECO–LODGE
Rewa
REWA ECO–LODGE
50 Miles
Getting there & around
Fly via the Caribbean (usually Barbados)
with Virgin or British Airways, changing
to a LIAT or Caribbean Airlines plane to
get to Georgetown, Guyana.
Alternatively, fly via New York or Miami
with American Airlines.
virginatlantic.com ba.com
liat.com carribean-airlines.com
americanairlines.co.uk
Average flight time: 9h.
In Guyana, there’s only one road
currently running from Georgetown into
the interior, so visitors should expect to
travel using varying means of transport,
including boat, light aircraft and
four-wheel-drive vehicle.
When to go
Guyana’s wet season is from mid-
November to mid-January and then
May to mid-July (stretching into August
in the interior). Travellers looking to
head into the interior should travel
during the drier months of February to
April or September to mid-November.
Year-round, temperatures hover around
the mid- to high 20Cs.
More information
rewaecolodge.com
suramaecolodge.com
guyanatourism.com
When to go
WILDLIFE WORLDWIDE offers a
small-group tour, the 15-day Ultimate
Guyana Nature Experience, which
features Georgetown, the Iwokrama
Rainforest, the Amerindian village of
Surama and the Rupununi savannah.
From £5,675 per person, including
international flights, guided tours,
transport, accommodation, most meals
and activities. wildlifeworldwide.com

48 HOURS IN
TOHOKU
Spend two days
discovering the
wild landscapes of
Japan’s northern
Honshu region
Known as the ‘Deep North’, Tohoku feels wonderfully adrift from 21st-century Japan, with
misty lakes in place of megacities, hidden springs instead of highways. A decade on from the
earthquake that damaged much of the region, there’s never been a better time to visit.
Day one
The epic crater lake of Lake Towada gets top
billing in most itineraries to Tohoku. But an
excellent support act is the little town that
bears the same name, 20 miles to the west.
Stop by to spend a morning among Towada’s
pioneering architecture, dropping into the
Kengo Kuma-designed Civic Center Plaza,
where timber floors rise and fall like waves.
The gateway to Lake Towada is Oirase
river — a wooded ravine where locals
come to practise forest bathing . Spend an
afternoon hiking along its trails to test its
calming powers, passing gurgling waterfalls
before reaching the shores of Lake Towada,
where swans seem blissfully unaware of
the volcano stewing away beneath. Drive up
to the rim for sweeping sunset views over
the volcanic bowl, then conclude the day at
nearby Hakkoda Resort Hotel, soaking in
the waters of the Sukayu Hot Spring.
PARTNER CONTENT FOR TOHOKU
Day two Essentials
The next morning, drive three hours
south into Akita Prefecture. Start out in
Getting there & around:
Tsurunoyu Onsen — a 17th-century spa Misawa Airport is the closest air
with Edo-era architecture, or grab a towel hub to Towada — a 40-minute
and take a walk to Ganiba Onsen, a simple drive to the east. The closest
pool set deep in the forest, which is silent station to Towada town is
but for the rush of a mountain stream. Shichinohe-Towada — set on
the Tohoku Shinkansen line,
Take an hour’s drive south to the
around three hours from Tokyo.
handsome little town of Kakunodate Kakunodate is on the Akita
— known as ‘Little Kyoto’. Get your bearings Shinkansen line, also three
with an afternoon rickshaw ride among hours from Tokyo. Both lines are
the ceremonial gates and boulevards of the operated by JR East. jreast.co.jp
town, before dismounting and enteringthe
creaking manors. Grandest of all is the 17th-
century Aoyagi Samurai Manor Museum,
stocked with an arsenal of swords and
spears along with maps and hanging scrolls.
End your Tohoku adventure with a stroll
along the town’s riverside embankment,
lined with ancient cherry trees.
To find out more, visit tohokukanko.jp
114 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 ETHIOPIA
The dramatic rock-hewn churches of Tigray in the Gheralta Mountains have
their roots in an age of desert monasticism — it was here in the sub-Saharan
kingdom of Aksumite that Christianity was adopted as the state’s sole religion
in the fourth century. These remote temples aren’t museums or ruins but living
monuments to the fervour and pageantry of the local Coptic faith

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS N I G E L PAV I T T

March 2020 115

ETHIOPIA

In the fifth century, nine monks from

Byzantium arrived in the northern
Ethiopian city of Aksum and, together
with their disciples, ventured deep into
the mountains to develop the art of
excavating monolithic churches. One of
the monks, Abuna Yemata, carved a cave
into the needle pinnacle of Guh (shown
previous and right). Despite the
hazardous ascent, young and old worship
here each Sunday. The church of Maryam
Korkor (left) was excavated later, in the
13th century. Here, prayer sticks are
widely used by the congregation to lean
on during long religious services.

116 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 ETHIOPIA

March 2020 117

ETHIOPIA

An Orthodox priest wrapped in a white shawl stands

on a ledge close to the church of Abuna Gebre
Mikael, which sits on a lofty plateau 1,500ft above
the rolling scrubland and russet sandstone spurs of
the desert plains. The route to this lookout involves
leaping across gaps and scrambling up a steep gully
— such trials are considered a show of faith.

118 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 ETHIOPIA

March 2020 119

ETHIOPIA

The important monastery of Debre

Damo is one of the oldest and most
inaccessible centres of Christianity in the
country (left and top left ). It was founded
by one of the nine monks, Abuna
Za-Mikael, who’s said to have a ascended
the sheer-sided plateau on the back of a
python. Only men are permitted to climb
the plaited leather ropes to visit the holy
site, which is home to some 150
self-sufficient monks. The domed ceiling
at Mikael Milhayzenghi cave church
(right) resembles himbasha, Tigray’s
traditional round flatbread.

120 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 ETHIOPIA

March 2020 121

ETHIOPIA

A priest reads a manuscript by the light of a doorway in Wukro Maryam church,

which was excavated between 1350 and 1450 — although some historians claim
certain features date back 2,000 years. The church was once surrounded
by troglodyte hermitages and drew its wealth from the salt caravan route; its
name comes from the word ‘wkr’, meaning ‘to dig’ in the local Agaw language.

IMAGES: NIGEL PAVITT / AWL IMAGES

122 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Signature brand hotels
located in the heart of Bergen!
Amazing view points•Futuristic design
Close to everything Bergen has to offer

Experience the
combination of vibrant,
futuristic design and the
best locations Bergen
has to offer.
Photo:
View from Magic Hotel
Kløverhuset

”
Signature
brand hotels.
Designed by
the recognized
Karim Rashid.

Photo: Magic Hotel Xhibition

DESIGN AND CULTURE COMBINED

Photo: @positravelty. Magic Hotel Solheimsviken
Magic Hotels include four new design
hotels, centrally located in Bergen. The
characteristics of the hotels are vibrant,
colorful and modern – designed by the
recognized Karim Rashid, who is known
for his distinctive expressions and
innovative design.
Photo: Magic Hotel Korskirken
Experience the small-town charm and
atmosphere of Bergen with nature,
culture, activities and shopping at the
doorstep of our hotels.

• Kløverhuset #citybreak #shopping

• Korskirken #romanticweekend #recharge
• Xhibition #nightlife #newadventures
• Solheimsviken #hiking #urban
Photo: Magic Hotel Kløverhuset Photo: Magic Hotel Korskirken

w w w.magichotels.no | reser vations@magichotels.no | +47 55 900 100

PARTNER CONTENT FOR HEARTLAND JAPAN
 PARTNER CONTENT FOR HEARTLAND JAPAN

WHERE FAITHS
CONVERGE ON
THE WIND
Lying in Mount Fuji’s mighty shadow, Kanto and its forests, mountain
springs and ancient shrines have long known the footfall of pilgrims.
Despite being a stone’s throw from Tokyo, the region is a world away
from the frenetic, neon-lit capital

Words: Oliver Smith Photography: Mark Parren Taylor

PARTNER CONTENT FOR HEARTLAND JAPAN
Even when you
can’t see it, you
know it’s there.
Its image sits inside your wallet on the
1,000-yen note. Its name is inscribed on
cars and cameras, beer bottles and trail
bikes. In folktales, it’s a gateway to the
Moon and the afterlife beyond. And for
many visitors, it’s their first vision of Japan
as their plane comes in to land; its white
summit puncturing the clouds as the movies
stop and the seatbelt signs goes bing.
“I believe everything has a spirit,
including Fuji,” says Tadasuke Omori, my
mountain guide. “And sometimes, she’s very
shy.” I’d met Tadasuke at a visitor centre at
the foot of the mountain, on a day when its
summit is cloaked in cloud. He tells me a
saying: “He who climbs Fuji once is a wise
man, but he who climbs twice is a fool”.
Tadasuke, having made between 200 and
300 ascents of the 12,390ft summit, proudly
considers himself ‘king of the foolish’.
Fuji casts a powerful spell on
mountaineers. It also has an almost
dangerous ability to hold one’s gaze,
distracting motorists when it looms in the
windscreen and causing spellbound diners
to spill their noodles. But look away and
the surrounding Kanto region in which it
stands is just as beautiful, spread over hills
as crisply contoured as folds of origami,
silken mists clinging to their slopes.
You can reach West Kanto from Tokyo in
little over an hour, but it feels aeons apart.
In place of bullet trains and broadband,
you can find broadleaf forests and bubbling
springs. Instead of skyscrapers, secluded
shrines are cocooned among the cliffs. It’s
also a place where travellers can take the
true spiritual pulse of Japan.
Formed by an eruption around 10,000
years ago (and dormant only for the past
300), Fuji was for centuries a place for tohai
(mountain pilgrimage), where devotion
was expressed through climbing every
skwyard. Faiths converged like crosswinds
on its holy summit, little Buddha statues
kept watch over its crater, while Shinto
pilgrims crawled into womb-like lava tubes
at the bottom of the mountain, symbolically
reborn before their climb.
Today, around 300,000 people climb Fuji
every year, and while pilgrims are fewer
these days, Tadasuke says even sceptics
ascribe supernatural powers to the volcano.
Bereaved souls carry portraits of their
loved ones up the mountain, returning with
sulphur on their boots and solace in their
hearts, and for Tadasuke, too, the ascent has
powerful meaning.
He tells me about a 42-year-old
Singaporean hiker he was guiding some
years ago who suffered a heart attack at the
seventh station, not far from the summit.
Tadasuke performed CPR but to no avail.
“You see the best and worst of life on Fuji,”
he says. “I met him once for two hours. I
think about him on the mountain, and now I
climb it for him.”
Outside the summer season, climbing is
prohibited on Fuji, so during my visit the
mountain exists more as an aloof figure
on the Kanto landscape, a presence in the
forest canopy among the birds’ nests, or a
reflection in a mirror-still lake. Mesmerising
in its perfection, it slopes gracefully
upwards like an artist’s brushstroke,
reigning sovereign over the sky.
Echoes of days gone by
To the south east lies the town of Hakone,
a popular weekend retreat from Tokyo.
Like Fuji, it’s a place with wayfaring in
its blood; it’s also a famous stop on the
Tokaido road, the route between the twin
capitals of Kyoto and Tokyo, an M4 on
steroids and the busiest transport corridor
in Japan. The original Tokaido, however,
was a cobbled path travelled at walking
PREVIOUS PAGES: Lake Motosu
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Haruki River, Mount
Shichimen; Yamamoto Satoshi in front of his teahouse;
Yoshida Trail signpost; Hashidate Cave; Omori
Tadasuke at the Fujisan World Heritage Center;
breakfast at Kakurinbo Temple Lodging, Kuon-ji
pace by pedestrians; a place where samurai
marched and porters sang to keep up their
spirits. Today, most of the ancient path has
been lost, but in the hills above Hakone
a tiny fragment survives — still but for
passing visitors and falling leaves.
I spend a happy morning walking its mossy
steps. On the other side of the hill is the Tokyo
Metropolitan Area, a land of neon billboards,
electric toilets and a billion jingles. But
walking the Tokaido is like opening the pages
of old picture-book Japan. Bamboo thickets
reverberate with birdsong, and cedar trees
sway above me, planted, perhaps, by a kind
shogun to provide shade to travellers. Dotted
about the forests are little wooden signs;
they could say ‘KEEP OUT’ or ‘ASBESTOS’,
but to an outsider like me, their Japanese
calligraphy is mesmerising, the lines of the
characters sprouting and swooping like the
branches above them.
Like climbing Fuji, walking the Tokaido
has profound meaning in Japanese culture.
In the Tokaido’s Edo-era heyday (between
1603 and 1868), Japan was detached from
the world. As part of a policy of extreme
isolation, foreign travel was banned.
Outsiders stayed away and strict rules
governed local travel too, with checkpoints
meaning few could even leave their
own region. As far as most people were
concerned, Japan was the entire world — the
universe ended at the eastern sea.
During this time, making a journey
on the Tokaido was to taste remarkable
freedom. Reasons were invented so ‘pilgrims’
could make trips, to drink sake at inns, be
entertained by geishas, barter in markets and
marvel at unfamiliar shrines. The essence
of travel was walking the flagstones of the
Tokaido — the only road that led to elsewhere.
“You discover things at walking speed,’
Satoshi Yamamoto says wisely. “Trains,
cars and buses are not what travel is about.”
Satoshi is the owner of the last tea house
along the Tokaido. It’s been in his family for
13 generations and more than four centuries.
PARTNER CONTENT FOR HEARTLAND JAPAN
In an age of Shinkansen and Airbus,
he’s dedicated his life to serving the last
travellers walking this old path.
Satoshi’s teahouse is called Amazake
Chaya, named after a fermented rice drink
served to fortify weary walkers. To step
inside is to catch a faint echo of the Edo
period, reflected in earthen floors and
simmering kettles, tatami mats and china
cups. And every day, from 7am to 5.30pm,
there’s an almost religious mission to provide
shelter to wayfarers, because, as Satoshi says:
“There is no Sunday for travellers.”
During Typhoon Hagibis, in October
2019, when the landscapes of Kanto were
submerged and trains were derailed, Rugby
World Cup matches cancelled and lives
lost, Satoshi kept Amazake Chaya open.
Only one customer came that day. Rain
thrashed down on the thatched roof and
wind whipped at the paper screens, but the
teahouse evaded the floodwaters, perhaps,
Satoshi suggests, because his ancestors
knew where to build their business.
“Or perhaps it was because of the
protection of gods,” he continues. “People
don’t remember them, but there are gods in
this landscape.”
The power of water
Tamaki Harayama stands upright, a figure
of perfect serenity, her hands clasped, her
back arched. “Nam myoho renge kyo,” she
recites, through pursed lips — the Lotus
Sutra, uttered by Buddhists on Mount
Shichimen since the 13th century. There’s no
quivering in her voice, no shiver down her
spine to indicate the gallons of freezing-cold
water thundering down onto her head.
Tamaki Harayama taking part in
waterfall purification
“In summer, the water is soft and warm,” Essentials
says Tamaki, emerging from the waterfall.
“In winter, it feels like needles. But the
Getting there & around
colder the water, the purer I feel. A burden Tokyo’s Haneda Airport is the
lifts and I have a direction in life.” closest airport to the Western
Tamaki is taking part in the Japanese Kanto region. Japan Airlines and
practice of misogi (waterfall purification), All Nippon Airways offer regular
and in November, the water is Baltic. connections to Tokyo from
London, while British Airways
Shichimen is one of many holy mountains
flies up to four times daily to
around Fuji, a satellite caught in its divine Tokyo airports from Heathrow.
orbit. It lies, Tamaki explains, on an axis jal.co.jp/en ana.co.jp/en ba.com
between Fuji and the birthplace of the Public transport links Tokyo to
Buddha in Nepal, and its summit offers many parts of Kanto region. It’s
one of the most easterly viewpoints of Fuji a two-hour train journey from
Shinjuku to Kawaguchiko station
before the great volcano disappears, folded at the northeastern base of Fuji.
away among the green hills of Japan. For more on trains and the JR
By day, Tamaki works as a teacher in Tokyo Wide Pass (which covers
Tokyo, helping Japanese jazz singers and much of Kanto), see jreast.co.jp
rap artists with their English pronunciation.
When to go
A lapsed Catholic, she came to Shichimen to
Mount Fuji’s climbing season is
“improve her soul”, she explains, and as part from July to September. However,
of her seven-day retreat she stands under many people visit Kanto in March
the waterfall for three minutes, twice a day. or April for cherry blossom
“Under the waterfall, I feel a connection season — expect rosy hues on
with this country,” Tamaki tells me, sipping the shores of Lake Kawaguchi-
ko in March and April. Autumn
a steaming cup of Nescafe in a guesthouse colours are also spectacular, with
beside the torrent. “I truly feel Japanese.” Japanese maple trees taking on
The spiritual life of Japan is sometimes vivid reds in October.
difficult for outsiders to fathom. Shinto and
Buddhist beliefs interweave and coexist; on How to do it
Heartland JAPAN operates a
Shichimen, there are Shinto stories of dragon
range of tours around Kanto
goddesses inhabiting nearby lakes, while — its three-day Mount Minobu
a community of Buddhist monks lives in a Spiritual Tour takes in temples
temple on the mountaintop. But faith here and mountains to the west of Fuji.
is often rooted in the natural world; in the heartlandjapan.com
power of landscapes to transform the souls
who pass through them; in those who climb
mountains; in pilgrims who feel the might of
waterfalls crashing onto their shoulders.
To find out more, visit heartlandjapan.com
130 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 City life
MADRID
From dancing ’til dawn at megaclubs to catching a
film at a revamped cinema, the only way to really
discover the Spanish capital is to stay up late
WORDS: Connor McGovern PHOTOGRAPHS: Ben Roberts

March 2020 131

MADRID
“M
uchas gracias,” cries the
singer. “We’re just going to
take a break. Back in 15!”
There are jeers of disappointment from the
crowd, who have been dancing to her jazzy
disco set all evening. Jokingly, she shields
herself, and darts to the bar, where a freshly
poured beer has her name on it. Waiters
in bow ties, meanwhile, parade desserts
to dolled-up diners, the room loud with
conversation. The audience disperses; those
remaining tap impatient feet to a playlist
that fills the interlude. It’s 1am; most of this
lot have work tomorrow. But at the door,
people are still turning up.
“You should come on Saturday,” says
waiter Constantino as he shows me to a
table on the rooftop terrace for a post-dinner
tipple. “It’s something else.”
Couples and groups chatter and clink
glasses on low-slung loungers, a gentle
breeze ruffles hair and skirts. Across the
rooftops, Madrid’s Royal Palace is lit up like a
colossal white wedding cake.
There’s a civilised, simmering buzz
about the Ginkgo Sky Bar tonight, but if
Constantino’s words are anything to go by,
it’ll almost certainly boil over into full-blown
excess on Saturday.
132 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
The love of a late night in this nation is
hardly unknown, but the Spanish capital
lives for it. Everything, from the streets to the
rooftops, sparkles into life when the sun goes
down; the mood lifts, the temperature dips,
and only then can Madrid really be itself
— whether it’s picking at late-night plates
of patatas bravas or dancing until the lights
come on. Daytime in this city almost feels
like an inconvenience; everyone is waiting
for night to fall.
“There’s somewhere to go, whenever
you want,” says Luis de Paz. A native
Madrilenian, he heads up Bespoke Travel
Spain, which specialises in personalised
itineraries in the country. “You could easily
stay out from 6pm to 6am and not have to
stop.” We’re walking through the nightlife
hotspot of Malasaña, where customers spill
from bars, and others linger over glasses of
Rioja on tables outside. Across the street,
twentysomethings fold giant pizza slices
into their mouths as an elderly couple amble
home, discussing the play they’ve just seen.
“What I love about Madrid is the people.
It’s so open-minded. Whether you’re from
here, elsewhere in Spain or another country,
everyone’s welcome. You don’t get that
atmosphere in every city.”

It’s midnight when we arrive at El Junco,
a music venue on Calle de Hortaleza, where
a handful of punters stand outside, blowing
smoke from vapes and cigarettes into the
night air. “I admit I’ve never been here this
early,” says Luis with a laugh. “I usually end
up here at around 3am.”
Alt-rock band The Rebels have just
finished their set and are now busy signing
T-shirts, CDs and body parts out back. The
main room has morphed into a nightclub,
and people are quickly filling the floor. “We
come here because it’s chilled!” Daniel tells
me (loudly) over the music. He’s the guitarist
in a local band, a regular at El Junco. “You
don’t have to be or do anything special. We
just drink, dance and listen to the music.”
He’s right; there are no frills to this place;
looking around, I realise it’s little more than
a room with a small stage and big speakers.
But El Junco is packed, hips swaying and
heads banging to a playlist that lurches from
Meatloaf remixes to the Gipsy Kings, via
obscure Spanish pop songs that, especially
after half a dozen bottles of Madrid’s Mahou
beer, nobody really knows the words to.
MADRID
SCREENS, QUEENS & COCOA BEANS
If Europe were a party, Madrid would be the
guest bulldozing through the door four hours
late, armed with beers and a boom box. It’d
hog the dance floor, talk to everybody, and
sulk when it was time to go home. Other
cities require codes, conduct and careful
planning to make the most of the night.
Madrid, by comparison, simply doesn’t care.
It’s laid-back, largely unpretentious and
merely wants to have a good time — and
wants you to, too. And when the day is done
and the last sunbeams stream through
the arches of the Puerta de Alcalá, the
metamorphosis from high-brow cultural
capital to party town begins.
“We wanted to be somewhere people
grab a beer and chat before going out,” says
Sara Morillo. She’s walking me around Sala
Equis, a cinema on the edge of the La Latina PREVIOUS PAGE:
Cocktails and neon at
neighbourhood. This was the last of Madrid’s
Salmón Gurú
adult picturehouses until it closed its 2015,
FROM LEFT: Gin and tonic,
but it’s found new life as a retro-chic cinema. a staple of the Spanish bar
“When we opened, a lot of people called what scene; dusk falls over Plaza
we did gentrification. But for me, it was a de Juan Pujol, Malasaña;
question of reinventing the past.” cinemagoers at Sala Equis
March 2020 133
MADRID

FROM LEFT: Early evening

at Viva Madrid; barman
Diego Cabrera

134 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

Those in the know are here early, nursing
beers and tacos from the bar as a silent fi lm
plays on the big screen. It’s a trendy spot:
exposed walls, trailing ivy and scarlet neon,
with lightboxes and raunchy vintage posters.
“It’s been popular with the locals,” she says
gladly. “And for a few euros you can catch a
fi lm, too. Not bad, eh?”
But Sara has to dash; she’s going out
tonight and has some errands to run
beforehand. After all, the daytime can be an
inconvenience in this town.
Sara is organised, but for many, nights
here generally drift from one place to the
next with no real plan. In Madrid, it’s far
more about the what — the talking, dancing,
drinking — rather than the when, where or
why. But Chueca, the beating heart of the
city’s nightlife scene, is one of the wheres.
It’s long been the city’s gay district, but it’s
a broad church these days. Everyone’s out
IMAGE: LUIS GASPA
tonight: clubbers, bar-hoppers, families,
hen parties, stag parties, drag queens, dog
walkers, young couples stealing kisses on
street corners, and mystified tourists trying
to take it all in. And just across busy Gran
Vía, in the Las Letras district, is one bar that
embodies that eclectic Madrid spirit.
“We’re a ‘taberna inusual’,” says Diego
Cabrera, barman and owner of Viva Madrid.
“An unconventional taberna. We like to do
things differently.”
Diego, with his salt-and-pepper beard and
thick Argentine accent, pours me a media
combinación: it’s sweet and smoky with
vermouth, and streaked with bitters. It’s one
of the classic tipples on a menu that strays
from the norms of old Spanish tabernas,
which traditionally deal in wine and beer.
However, the original charm — mirrors,
painted tiles and dark wood panelling that
date to 1856 — has remained, and its clientele
is as varied as ever. “Viva Madrid has always
been a reflection of Madrid itself,” he
explains. “Royalty, fi lm directors, matadors,
hookers — everyone came here. Post-Franco,
this was where people could come and be
themselves. And that’s something we want to
keep today, too.”
But just around the corner is Salmón
Gurú, another of Diego’s bars, that’s as far
from a traditional taberna as you can get.
MADRID
Q&A: Juan
Manuel del Rey,
director, Corral
de la Morería
flamenco theatre
WHAT MAKES MADRID’S
NIGHTLIFE UNIQUE?
The people. The madrileños love
their city, and they love to go
out at night. The way of life here
revolves around being out in the
streets and sharing the moment
with everyone else, whether
that’s with other locals or those
who have come from elsewhere.
There’s a real happiness and
openness about the people here.
WHAT DO YOU LIKE ABOUT
GOING OUT IN MADRID?
The small side streets where
you’ll find bar after bar after bar.
Everyone’s out having a good
time, and it creates a unique
atmosphere that’s hard to find in
other world capitals. Calling in to
various places in just one night
really allows you to discover the
personality of Madrid, its history
and its people.
WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO GO OUT?
Madrid’s one of the world’s
greatest gastronomic capitals,
so when I go out, it’s to have a
good time with my friends. We
all love to enjoy the city’s food
scene. I like going from one bar
to the next — a glass of wine
here, another there — at places
like La Venencia or Taberna Palo
Cortado before finishing up with
some of the best flamenco in the
world at Corral de la Morería.
corraldelamoreria.com
March 2020 135
MADRID
“Nobody goes to bed in
Madrid until they have
killed the night” //
Ernest Hemingway
FROM LEFT: Service at
Chocolatería San Ginés;
churros and chocolate at
Chocolatería San Ginés;
Bodega de la Ardosa
136 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Unassuming on the outside, inside is a trippy
riot of neon pop art, animal prints and plush
upholstered chairs, with rooms themed
around Berlin, New York and China.
“Bartenders are pharmacists,” Diego
says while around him, staff serve frothing,
steaming, flowery drinks in all kinds of
bizarre receptacles. “We’re prescribing
things to people, things that take time to
develop and perfect. We shouldn’t just be
churning out drink after drink.”
From the list of ‘prescriptions’, I’m served
a Saint-Léger: a delicious concoction of
lemongrass, gin, cognac, lemon and coconut,
crowned with a honey-slicked plantain crisp
and wasabi peas. It puts the piña colada to
claggy, saccharine shame.
Until bars like Salmón Gurú, Madrid had a
fairly demure cocktail scene; drinkers relied
on classic old venues like Museo Chicote, a
favourite with the likes of Ernest Hemingway
and Grace Kelly. As for what to drink, the
simple gin and tonic was the go-to. It’s long
been a staple of the Spanish bar and still
today, they’re the mark of a good bartender,
I’m told by one local: a big, ice-filled glass
of deftly paired gin, garnish and tonic that’s
bigger, bolder and colder than what you or I
might expect on a summer afternoon.
While there’s no doubt he can make
a killer G&T, it’s Diego’s more inventive
concoctions that have helped put Madrid
onto the mixology map. However, the city
wasn’t his first home after moving to Spain.
“I used to tend bars in Barcelona before
moving here,” he says. I wonder if he prefers
coastal or capital city. “Oh, I couldn’t
choose,” he laughs. “But I do love Madrid.”
Whatever libation guides you through a
night here, all roads lead to one place. Just
off busy Puerta del Sol is Chocolatería San
Ginés, an all-night sanctuary for the tired
and hungry since 1894. Inside, photos of
famous patrons deck the green-and-white
walls as teacups are lined up along the bar
like soldiers, ready to be filled with melted
chocolate and whisked off with a plate of
churros. “Hombre, we see all kinds of people
in here,” a waitress tells me. “Tourists in
the day, madrileños [Madrilenians] at night.
When you’re not ready to go home, then you
come here for churros.”
Almost on cue, the waitress rushes to greet
a friend who’s wandered in; the latter’s face
is streaked with tears. After hugs and kisses,
she’s ushered to a table and served a mound
of churros and a mug of chocolate. And just
like that, her world is a better place.
 MADRID

INSIDER TIPS

Vermouth is the city’s tipple

of choice. It’s served nearly
everywhere, but rustic Stop
Madrid, in Malasaña, and Taberna
de Ángel Sierra in Chueca are
true local institutions well worth
seeking out. stopmadrid.es
tabernadeangelsierra.es

Don’t forget to switch to local

time to make the most of the
night. As a rule of thumb, locals
generally don’t head out to eat
until 10pm, finishing up around
midnight. From there, it’s drinks
until around 2.30am, after which
many make their way to the clubs,
which largely close at 6am.

If clubbing’s your thing, check

out Madrid Lux, where you’ll find
night-by-night event listings and
details of how to book onto VIP
guest lists. madridlux.com/en

Madrid's top 8
AFTER-DARK SPOTS
TEATRO KAPITAL
FOR ALL-NIGHTERS
Welcome to Madrid’s high temple of
hedonism: a seven-floor megaclub that’s the
bass-pumping, strobe-lit heart of the city’s
club scene. Each floor blasts out a different
genre of music, from R&B and salsa to house
and the latest hits, with a more chilled-out
vibe on the sixth floor. There’s a packed
calendar of events and guest DJs, too, all of
which keep partygoers on their feet ’til dawn.
teatrokapital.com
LA ESCALERA DE JACOB
FOR LATE-NIGHT LAUGHS
Located in the scruffy, multicultural barrio
of Lavapiés, this modest little theatre stages
local performing arts at its best. A fixture
on the cultural scene for a decade, it has
a diverse calendar of shows, including
plays, stand-up, improv, magic and even
family-friendly performances. ¿No hablas
español? There are also shows in English
each month — check the website for dates.
laescaleradejacob.es

BODEGA DE LA ARDOSA CÍRCULO DE LAS BELLAS ARTES

FOR A STEP BACK IN TIME
Old, elaborate and lit with turquoise neon
lettering, the timeworn facade of this bar
alone is enough to whisk you away to the
Madrid of yore. Since 1892, La Ardosa has
been serving Malasaña’s revellers and
reprobates in a wood-panelled bar that’s
so full of memorabilia, bottles, hand-
written chalkboards and sepia photographs
that you’ll hardly know where to look. Be
prepared to get cosy — the bar heaves with
people nearly every night. laardosa.es
FOR DRINKS WITH A VIEW
There’s a reason people queue for a tipple
at this rooftop terrace — the vistas here are
some of the best in town. Set 180ft above Calle
de Alcalá with Madrid’s grand belle epoque
skyline as a backdrop, there are few finer
places to sip a cocktail at sundown. If you
can’t face the queue (or the selfie set), try the
nearby Terraza de Cibeles, which has great
views of the Cibeles Fountain and Calle de
Alcalá bustling below. palaciodecibeles.com
circulobellasartes.com/azotea

March 2020 137

MADRID

ESSENTIALS

El Junco S PA I N
Madrid
Plaza de CHUECA
España MALASAÑA
Ginkgo Sky Bar

Gran Vía

Chocolatería
San Ginés Puerta
de Sol
Viva Madrid Salmón Gurú Parque
BARRIO DE del Buen
LAS LETRAS Retiro
Sala Equis
BARRIO DE
LA LATINA
LAVAPIÉS

500 yards

Getting there & around

Various airlines fly direct to Madrid
including British Airways from
Heathrow, Gatwick and Dublin;
Iberia from Heathrow, Gatwick and
Birmingham; EasyJet from Gatwick,
Luton, Bristol, Edinburgh and
Liverpool; and Ryanair from
Stansted, Manchester, Birmingham
and Dublin. ba.com iberia.com
easyjet.com ryanair.com
Average flight time: 2h10min.
The city centre is generally easy to
cover on foot, but single fares on the
14-line metro system start at €1.50
(£1.30). metromadrid.es

CANDELA
FOR FIRST-CLASS FLAMENCO
Andalucia may claim the origins of flamenco,
but Madrid is where you’ll find many of the
country’s best tablaos (flamenco venues).
This spot, hidden away in Lavapiés, could
be straight out of a Sevillian backstreet with
its tiles and whitewashed walls, and the
mesmerising marriage of dance, song and
guitar has drawn some of Spain’s biggest
names in flamenco as both performers and
spectators. Open until 6am on weekends, it
can get pretty cramped in this underground
bar, but this is flamenco at its sweaty, soul-
stirring best. flamencocandela.com
LA LATINA
FOR TAPAS
While tourists flood the Mercado de San
Miguel food hall, the barrio of La Latina is
refreshingly low-key. Madrilenians love to
come here, drifting along Calle de la Cava
Baja, calling for tapas and cañas (small
When to go
Sunset over the boating lake Spring and autumn are ideal at
at Parque del Buen Retiro around 20C. Winters are bright but
chilly (3-4C). Summers, though, can
get extremely hot with highs of
40C-plus.
PARQUE DEL BUEN RETIRO
FOR A STROLL AT SUNSET Places mentioned
Ginkgo Sky Bar.
If you’ve already discovered the charms
ginkgoskybarmadrid.com
of Madrid’s green heart in the day, don’t
El Junco. eljunco.com
forget to come by again at dusk, as it’s open Sala Equis. salaequis.es
until late throughout the year (midnight in Viva Madrid.
summer, 10pm in winter). Watch the sun set facebook.com/vivamadridtaberna
over the boating lake before taking a stroll Salmón Gurú. salmonguru.es
— even at this hour, you’ll still find the city Chocolatería San Ginés.
out in force: families in the playgrounds, chocolateriasangines.com
lovebirds on a moonlit walk and commuters
taking a leafy detour home. In true Madrid More info
Madrid Tourism. esmadrid.com
style, there’s even a restaurant-cum-club
Bespoke Travel Spain.
here — Florida Retiro — for a real party in
bespoketravelspainandportugal.com
the park. floridaretiro.com
Where to stay
TEATRO DE LA ZARZUELA VP Plaza España Design (home to
FOR SOMETHING SPANISH the Ginkgo Sky Bar) has doubles
Zarzuela — Spain’s unique art of theatre, from €196 (£169), room only.
dance and music combined — has its plazaespana-hotel.com
spiritual home in Madrid. Completed in Located in Chueca, 7 Islas Hotel
offers doubles from €120 (£103),
1856, this theatre was the first in the country
room only. 7islashotel.com
devoted to the performance art and is
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

beers) along the way. The street is full of
bars, where the real joy is drifting from one
to the next, allowing the night to guide you.
Decide for yourself as to which one does the
best tortilla, but if you’re spoilt for choice,
Taberna La Concha, La Perejila and nearby
Cafe Pavón are good places to start.
rather grand, but zarzuela itself is a light-
hearted mix of opera and musical theatre,
with a dash of pantomime that pokes fun at
everyday life. The slightly bonkers storylines
might be tricky to follow, but the atmosphere
is electric and performances here are top-
notch. teatrodelazarzuela.mcu.es
How to do it
BRITISH AIRWAYS HOLIDAYS has
return economy flights and two
nights’ accommodation, B&B, from
£129 per person. britishairways.com

138 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 INDIA’S GOLDEN TRIANGLE
& SHIMLA
Experience the marvel of India. Adventure up the snowcapped mountains of Shimla and
take in the breathtaking Taj Mahal. A journey that will stay with you forever.

2
DEP 020 LOW
OSIT
OFFE
£99
R
PER
BOO PERS
K ON ON*
1 5TH OR B
FEBR EFORE
U
2020 ARY

London Heathrow Shimla Agra & the Taj Mahal Ranthambore Delhi

Delhi Delhi Fatehpur Sikri Jaipur London Heathrow

Days 1-2. Delhi Days 10-11. Ranthambore 2020 DEPARTURES Tour code: LTC

After a flight from London Heathrow you Visit Ranthambore National Park to track September from £2,195
arrive in vibrant Delhi. Relax at the luxurious Bengal tigers. October from £2,595
Taj Palace Hotel November from £2,395
December from £2,595
Days 3-5. Shimla Day 12. Jaipur 2021 DEPARTURES
Board the UNESCO-listed ‘Toy Train’ to Explore Jaipur’s sights, including the January from £2,295
colonial Shimla. Palace of the Winds’ famous pink facade February from £2,595
March from £2,195
Days 6-7 Delhi April from £2,095
Tour the city’s famous sights - ancient Days 13-14. Homeward September from £1,995
and modern. Enjoy a final night at the Taj Palace before October from £2,395
catching your flight home the next day. November from £2,295
December from £2,695
Days 8-9. The Taj Mahal
Visit the Red Fort and Taj Mahal. Explore Save up to £100pp on 2021 departures
the abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri. Book on or before 31st May 2020†

Fully escorted by 30 meals 13 days in All tour excursions

a UK tour manager included 5* Star hotels included

PROUD SPONSORS OF

Call 01904 734234 • Visit GreatRail.com

Due to the nature of our tours they are generally unsuitable for those with restricted mobility. If you’d like to discuss any particular holiday with us in this respect, then please don’t hesitate to call us. Book with 100% confidence, flight-inclusive holidays are ATOL or ABTOT protected, non flight-inclusive
holidays are protected by ABTOT. Dates and prices are subject to availability. Prices shown are per person, based on 2 people sharing. Prices may change prior to and after publication. Itinerary may differ depending on the departure date you choose. †Book on or before 31st May 2020 and save up to £100
per person on selected 2021 worldwide holidays. The early booking discount varies depending on the price of the departure. Prices do not include the discount. *Book on or before 15th February 2020 and pay only £99pp deposit on selected 2020 Worldwide, European & UK departures. The balance of the
deposit, (which is the difference between the full deposit payable and the low deposit amount already paid by you), is payable by the date notified to you as well as in the event of cancellation (in which case you may also be liable for additional cancellation and administration charges as stipulated in our booking
conditions).Terms and conditions apply. Please call for further details. Calls will be recorded.
 City life
RIGA
ZZ
Z

With a medieval old town, art nouveau touches and vestiges of a Soviet past,
the Latvian capital is a patchwork of a city that bears marks of its former
occupiers. But a more modern Riga, of cocktail bars and high-rise hotels, is
weaved in too. WORDS: David Whitley PHOTOGRAPHS: Simon Bajada

R
iga has the look of somewhere that
really, really wants people to visit it
on a city break. It knows it’ll never
have the art collections, international icons
and global player dynamism of Paris, New
York and Madrid. But there’s no question it’s
prepared to hustle its way into the second
tier. The old town, in particular, looks
almost suspiciously adorable: it’s clear that
serious money and determination has been
thrown into every paint-lick and building
restoration. Chunky red-brick churches and
guild houses with satisfyingly decorative
flourishes line a free-for-all of medieval
streets that city planners long gave up on
organising coherently.
These lanes lead pedestrians out into a
series of squares, which, on an admittedly
rare sunny day, are absolute catnip for idlers
who enjoy sitting on a cafe terrace people-
watching. Come the long summer evenings,
coffees are switched for beers, and there’s a
perceptible glow of agreeable pleasantness.
It should be noted that this feels a far cry
from what Riga was like when cheap flights
and European Union membership first put
it on the city break radar. Back in the mid-
2000s, it was a lads-on-tour mayhem magnet,
with stag parties lured in by what was then
cheap beer and a blind eye turned to the
sort of things brides would disapprove of.
But nowadays, it feels far more cruise ship
than booze cruise, and there have been clear
efforts to promote aspects — art nouveau
architecture, the markets, history and
Latvian food — that would have been lost in
the swilling haze 15 years ago.
Riga is also notable for being a capital
city that stands apart from the rest of the
country. The city feels like it holds the rest
of Latvia at arm’s length, mystified as to why
everyone’s so obsessed with hanging out in
forests and gathering mushrooms.
This is at least partly because Riga was,
historically, a separate entity — a Hanseatic
trading port, run by a sizeable German
merchant contingent, which preferred
soaring brick guild houses to dainty, wooden
rural shacks.
Over time it’s found itself bundled into an
ever-rotating roster of larger political entities
— German, Russian, Swedish, Polish-
Lithuanian, Nazi and Soviet empires have all
swallowed up Riga, sometimes tying it to the
surrounding areas, sometimes treating it as a
standalone port city.
This cavalcade of influences adds up,
bringing edges and personality traits that
hold the attention long after the joy of
mooching around the old town starts to wear
thin. Riga may be eager to please, but there’s
plenty behind the make-up.

140 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
March 2020 141
RIGA

Family ties // The most lavish art nouveau buildings in

Riga are the handiwork of architect Mikhail Eisenstein, and
creative genes clearly ran in the family. Mikhail’s son Sergei
was a cinema pioneer, with his movie Battleship Potemkin
regularly named as one of the most influential films in history,
and his use of montage becoming a film theory staple

SEE & DO information on the systematic transportation

HOUSE OF THE BLACKHEADS: The
most potent symbol of how Riga’s old town
has been dolled up is this ornate edifice,
which was wrecked in two stages — during
the Second World War and during Soviet
occupation. The Dutch Renaissance
guild house, all ziggurat-esque sides and
decorative twiddliness, was rebuilt and
reopened in 2001. melngalvjunams.lv
THE PARK ‘MOAT’: A series of parks, with a
canal running through them, turns the old
town into something of an island. These
parks are fantastic to hang out in, but also
full of little oddities, including the memorial
stones to those killed during the Soviet
attack of January 1991 and the man-made,
snail-like Bastejkalns hillock. Keep an eye
out for beavers in the evening.
BOAT CRUISES: The canal can be combined
with the Daugava River for a leisurely,
looping pootle around the old town. There
are several grand (and borderline absurd)
monuments to ogle, but the west bank of the
Daugava is home to a host striking modern
buildings — including the love-it-or-hate-it
National Library Building, which looks a bit
like a giant glass shoe. rigabycanal.lv
RIGA GHETTO AND LATVIAN HOLOCAUST
MUSEUM: Part of the former Jewish ghetto
has had its warehouse district filled with
cafes and galleries, but this free, largely
open-air museum commemorates wartime
horrors. The replica train carriage, full of
to concentration camps and execution sites,
is particularly sobering. rgm.lv
MUSEUM OF THE OCCUPATION OF LATVIA:
Continue the tour through Latvian history
with this well-presented journey through
Nazi and Soviet occupation. Resistance
movements, families split with sons fighting
on three sides and mass deportations to
the Siberian gulags are all on the menu.
okupacijasmuzejs.lv
LATVIAN ACADEMY OF SCIENCES: It’s hard to
miss this clunking great Soviet throwback in
the Moscow District. A dramatic example of
tiered Stalinist architecture, the building is
also home to an open-air observation deck
that affords fabulous 360-degree views over
the pancake-flat city. lza.lv
ART NOUVEAU DISTRICT: Many of Riga’s 800-
plus art nouveau buildings are concentrated
north of the old town. Some of the most
audacious are on Elizabetes iela and Alberta
iela, with the most detailed, flamboyant
masterworks by Mikhail Eisenstein. Riga
Trips runs walking tours here. rigatrips.lv
ART NOUVEAU MUSEUM: This museum
— fittingly housed in one of the city’s most
lavish art nouveau buildings — is a must for
admirers of the style. It’s handled well, with
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: House of the
lots of touchscreen information, while the
Blackheads; locals enjoying summer on
period apartment adorned with furniture the banks of the City Canal; rolls of wool
and window decoration is outrageously in traditional wool shop Hobbywool
sumptuous. Don’t forget to look up the PREVIOUS PAGE: Latvian National
spiralling staircase, too. jugendstils.riga.lv Museum of Art

142 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 RIGA

March 2020 143

RIGA

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Līvu Square, a small park in the centre
of the old town; lingonberries from the
forest being divided and weighed at the
Riga Central Market; Lido Vermanitis, a
mini-chain of self-service restaurants

144 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 RIGA

Ashes to ashes // Riga burned down on several occasions

— deliberately. Those living outside the city walls dwelled in
wooden houses and would set them on fire before retreating
within the walls upon the threat of invasion. The last burning
of Riga was in 1812, when several suburbs were torched in
anticipation of a French invasion. Napoleon, as it turned out,
had little interest in taking the city anyway

BUY LIKE A LOCAL EAT

RIGA CENTRAL MARKET: The five giant
‘pavilions’ the largest market in Europe is
based around were originally designed to
be airship hangars. Now they constitute a
cornucopia of fresh food — including pig’s
heads, trotters and a variety of unusual
baked goods. The ‘Gastronomic Pavilion’ is
the most visitor-friendly, with food court-
esque specialist stalls and cheese and treats
merchants. rct.lv
HOBBYWOOL: Patterned woollen clothing
— particularly mittens — is traditionally big
in Latvia, although it’s more a rural thing.
Hobbywool, a sort of a knitting supplies
store, brings it to Riga’s old town, however.
In among the knitting kits are mittens, socks
and more, made from wool that’s been hand-
sheared on a family farm. hobbywool.com
ART NOUVEAU RIGA: Clearly milking its
position opposite the Art Nouveau Museum,
this very deliberate time warp of a shop sells
pretty much any souvenir knick-knack you
might consider — in the art nouveau style.
That means decorative tiles, books, jewellery,
plates, purses, glasses, the works. It could
have been tacky, but much of what’s on sale
is rather endearing. artnouveauriga.lv
NATIONAL ROMANTICISM: Eisenstein’s
buildings are the flashiest examples of
art nouveau, and they’re almost a genre
to themselves. But far more of Riga’s art
nouveau treasure chest is muted. In the
centre, look out for the more subtle ‘national
romanticism’ buildings, which incorporate
earthy colours and forest-themed motifs.
CREATIVE QUARTERS: Locals don’t tend to
hang out in the old town, preferring instead
a series of former industrial sites that have
been turned into ‘creative quarters’ full of
start-up businesses, indie cafes, galleries and
bars. The Kalnciema Quarter, with its wooden
buildings and markets on the western side of
the Daugava, is the best example, although
the former Jewish ghetto behind the Central
Market is more easily accessible.
PICKLED FOOD: The Latvian approach to food
seems to be based on the assumption that
a 10-year winter is approaching. If they can
smoke it, or pickle it, they will. The Central
Market provides the most eye-poppingly
high scale illustration of this, but there’s
been a recent uptick of pride and confidence
in local cuisine that’s increasingly filtering
through to restaurant menus.
LIDO VERMANITIS: The Lido
mini-chain of self-service, canteen-style
restaurants is a Riga institution, usually
filled with cheesy country hut-style decor
and soundtracked by questionable sub-
oompah music. It’s not fine food, but it’s
hearty, cheap, varied and distinctive. The
Vermanitis and Dzirnavas branches are in
the Central District and there’s another in
the old town. lido.lv
ZVIEDRU VARTI: In a 16th-century
building next to the old town’s Swedish Gate,
this family-run labour of love is at its best
with the meaty winter warmers, such as pork
leg with stewed cabbage, or duck breast with
pear and red wine sauce. The interior is cosy
— come the evening it’s positively romantic
and low-lit — and attentive service is a point
of honour. zviedruvarti.lv
VINCENTS: There are some local
dishes here, including Baltic Sea flounder
and grilled venison with wild mushrooms,
but the aim is to be international standard
rather than just the top address in town. That
means Japanese wagyu beef, Faroe Islands
langoustines, Ibérico pork, tasting menus
and a hefty wine list. restorans.lv

March 2020 145

RIGA

View over the city towards the

old town from the Skyline Bar
at Radisson Blu Latvija

ESSENTIALS
Art Nouveau

SEA
Museum

B A LT I C
RIGA
L AT V I A

R I G A
200 yards

Da
Town Hall Square

ug
Museum of the

av
Occupation of Latvia

a
Latvian Academy

R
of Sciences
v Riga Central
e

i
Market
r Riga Ghetto and
Kalnciema Quarter Holocaust in Latvia
1 mile Museum

Getting there & around

AFTER HOURS
BREVINGS: A perfect symbol of the
new, more sedate Riga, Brevings has terrace
tables on the Old Town’s busiest square,
but doesn’t pull in the rowdy crowd. The
beer range is excellent — including several
Latvian craft brews and a whole host of
Belgian imports — but the single malt
selection is even better. brevings.lv
CAFE LENINGRAD: Knowingly playing up the
Soviet-era kitsch, with old radios stacked up
against the back wall, 1970s-style furniture
and a smattering of Lenin portraits, this
bar morphs into a punk joint at night. The
tiny stage round the corner from the bar see
bands perform before a backdrop of bras,
presumably donated by patrons. leningrad.lv
GIMLET NORDIC: Don’t expect easy-going mai
tais in this very particular cocktail joint. The
Z SLEEP
ZZ
HOTEL GUTENBERGS: Spread over
two old town buildings, this charmer makes
up for small rooms with an awful lot of
thought. The little things thrown into the
mix include a copy of the Gutenberg Bible,
centuries-old paintings and several wall-
mounted engravings. Rooms from €57 (£48).
hotelgutenbergs.lv
RADISSON BLU LATVIJA: This glossy high
rise is defiant, modern Riga. Don’t expect
a world of excitement in the business-
orientated rooms, but the Skyline Bar on the
26th floor has tremendous city views, and the
lifts going up the outside of the building are
a fantastic gimmick. Rooms from €98 (£82).
radissonhotels.com
HOTEL BERGS: Built around a glorious
courtyard with a grand old chestnut tree,
There are plenty of direct flights
from the UK to Riga, including
Wizzair’s routes from Doncaster
Sheffield and Luton. Ryanair goes
from Edinburgh, East Midlands,
Stansted, Manchester and
Leeds-Bradford. AirBaltic has a
year-round route from Gatwick, plus
a seasonal route from Aberdeen,
while British Airways flies there
direct from Heathrow.
Average flight time: 2h45m.
wizzair.com ryanair.com
airbaltic.com ba.com
Bus number 22 goes from the
airport to the city centre every
10-30 minutes, taking around half an
hour. Tickets cost €2 (£1.70) from the
driver. Taxis take around 15 minutes
and should cost around €15 (£12.80).
Public transport fare, timetable and
journey-planner information is
available at rigassatiksme.lv
When to go
Riga isn’t a winter sun destination,
and the cold, dark winter months
when the temperature hovers
around freezing don’t show the city
at its best. Summer can be rather
magical, with temperatures around
22-24C.
More info
liveriga.com
inyourpocket.com/riga
Insight Guides’ Estonia, Latvia and
Lithuania (2019). RRP £15.99
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

emphasis is pointedly on Northern European
flavours, such as the nordic cooler, where
sherry gets sharpened up with aquavit and
dill. The forest vibes introduces the bitter
and botanical-heavy local liqueur, Riga Black
Balsam, with vodka and gooseberry cordial.
gimletnordic.com
this stately 19th-century building is liberally
sprinkled with Latvian Old Master art,
plants, art nouveau design flourishes and
— somewhat less explicably — African
textiles. There’s a whiff of Scandinavian
clean lines in the room design, too. Rooms
from €128 (£107). hotelbergs.lv
How to do it
MYRIGA.CO.UK offers city break
packages, including three nights
staying B&B at the four-star Hotel
Gutenbergs, with return flights from
Manchester, from £234 per person.

146 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
PARTNER CONTENT FOR THE TOURISM COMMITTEE OF ARMENIA

DISCOVER ARMENIA’S
GASTRO SCENE
Armenian cuisine is rich and varied — but it’s the country’s wine, with its time-
honoured traditions and distinct flavour, that sets the destination apart

Offering everything from meat-topped What truly confirms the country’s

flatbreads to flavoursome cheese, Armenia’s
diverse and exciting cuisine deserves a
place on the on the global gastronomic map.
This country draws on culinary influences
from all over Europe, the Middle East and
the Levant to serve up a menu of mouth-
watering dishes — think harissa, a savoury
chicken porridge; manti, a delicious baked
dumpling; or ghapama, a pumpkin stuffed
with boiled rice, dried fruits and nuts. A
nation of food-lovers, Armenians attach great
value to ancestral recipes and home cooking,
so travellers should make sure to come with
open minds and empty stomachs.
place on the world culinary stage is its
wine. In 2007, archaeologists uncovered
a 6,100-year-old winery (the oldest
ever discovered) in a cave nestled in the
Armenian village of Areni — the same place
where the world’s oldest leather shoe was
discovered. Here, visitors can still see the
remains of storage jars, fermentation vats
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
and a press where winemakers crushed
Armenian delicacies around the
grapes with their feet. But winemaking in
table; vineyard in Armenia with
Armenia is not only about the past: with Mount Ararat in the distance;
a new generation of winemakers eager to dolma; collecting grapes for
show off their country, the local industry wine production in a vineyard
is making a comeback. in Armenia

Armenia’s wine production may be
relatively small in size, but what it lacks in
IMAGES: TOURSIM COMMITTEE OF ARMENIA; GETTY
quantity, it makes up for in quality. There
are three key grape varieties: Areni, a
red that’s referred to as Armenia’s Pinot
Noir; Voskehat, an aromatic white; and
Khndoghni, a red that pairs well with meat.
Areni is considered the best of the bunch
— it’s extremely resistant to disease, yet
elegant in the glass.
Armenia’s wine scene is vibrant and
waiting to be discovered. Wine lovers can
venture to several viticultural regions,
including Aragatsotn, Tavush, Armavir and
Ararat. Aside from being viticultural centres,
PARTNER CONTENT FOR THE TOURISM COMMITTEE OF ARMENIA
THREE
TO TRY
Dolma: Parcels of rice
and minced meat are
wrapped in grape or
cabbage leaves. Vegan-
friendly fillings like lentils,
aubergine and spices
can also be used. Dolma
are eaten in homes and
restaurants year-round.
Khorovats: These are
skewers of barbecued or
grilled meats such as lamb
or pork. The meat might be
served with sliced onion,
salad and lavash flatbread.
The annual khorovats
festival is held in August in
Lori province.
Lavash: Featured on
the UNESCO List of the
Intangible Cultural Heritage
of Humanity, lavash is the
country’s signature dish
— a thin, wheat flour bread
made in a tonir (traditional
oven). The dough made
of flour, eggs, water and
butter is rolled and slapped
against the oven wall.
these regions are developing a reputation as Essentials
wine-tourism destinations and offering wine-
tour opportunities. Travellers should also be
Getting there: Aeroflot flies from
sure to tick off Vayots Dzor, the winemaking Heathrow to Yerevan via Moscow.
centre that includes the Areni Cave complex. aeroflot.com.
Alternatively, soak up Armenian wine Average flight time: 7h 20m.
culture by attending a wine event. Options Getting around: Hiring a car or
include Yerevan Wine Days, a two-day taking a day trip from the capital
is the best way to visit Armenia’s
street festival held at the beginning of May;
wine regions. May to October is a
Voskevaz Wine Festival in August; and good time to visit.
Areni Wine Festival in October. Blending
winemaking demonstrations with traditional
song and dance, plenty of cheese and, of
course, lots of drinking, these jolly events are
a great way to see a different side to Armenia.
To find out more, visit armenia.travel/en
 ASK THE
EXPERTS
NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP?
ARE YOU AFTER RECOMMENDATIONS,
TIPS AND GUIDANCE? THE TRAVEL
GEEKS HAVE THE ANSWERS…
Q // I’m thinking of
taking a trip to Senegal
this year, but don’t
really know where to
start. What should I do
when I’m there and
what shouldn’t I miss?
150 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Senegal has a sandy coastline with
year-round sunshine that attracts
a large number of visitors, but the
first must-see I’d recommend is
Lake Retba — a mile-long body
of water, close to the coastal
capital of Dakar, glowing with an
otherworldly tint of bubblegum
pink and sometimes orange.
This rare phenomenon is caused
by microorganisms and a high
level of salt. Villagers harvest the
salt to sell, so visiting is a great
opportunity to interact with
locals before testing the curative
properties of the lake by taking
a dip.
Elsewhere in northern Senegal,
the sacred Muslim town of Touba
is home to the Great Mosque;
its striking shape dominates the
skyline and is worth a trip to see.
Throughout Senegal, it’s likely
you’ll find yourself never far from
local music venues. Sounds of a
different sort can be heard in the
Bandia Nature Reserve. In recent FROM LEFT: Fishing port of
Elinkine, Senegal; hiking the
years, there have been successful
reintroductions of numerous Pacific Crest Trail
native species. The result is you
can see buffalos, antelopes,
monkeys, white rhinos, giraffes,
zebras, ostriches, crocodiles
and even chimpanzees. It’s
also a fantastic location for
bird enthusiasts.
The capital, Dakar, is a great
place for street markets and
food stalls where you’ll find
an abundance of West African
cuisine on offer, from freshly
caught tilapia to ceebu jën (a
paella-like local staple made with
fish, vegetables and rice).
In Senegal, eating is often at
the heart of important communal
events, which typically feature a
large central bowl whose contents
are shared among many — dig in
and try this out at one of the many
eateries in the city.
kamageo.com TIM HENSHALL
 Q // Venice You should absolutely still go
— Venetians need you, especially
seems to be in after last winter’s floods, which
a constant have taken a heavy financial
struggle with toll. But be the kind of tourist
they need. Don’t take a cruise
overtourism, ship or a day trip — that makes
cruise ships and you the hit-and-run tourist
rising water Venetians have grown to despise.
Day-trippers include those who
levels. Is there stay on the mainland in Mestre
ever a good time — if you’re going to Venice, you
to go or should I need to be putting money in
Venetians’ pockets.
avoid the city
Pick locally owned hotels,
together? bars and eateries and budget to
buy something made by local
artisans, many of whom struggle
Q // I want to In the past decade, the Pacific
Crest Trail (PCT) — stretching
hike the Pacific 2,650 miles from Canada
Crest Trail but to Mexico — has grown in
have heard popularity. As such, there’s been
an increase in human impact
there are new along the trail and surrounding
rules and landscapes, meaning the very
regulations. experience people are seeking
What do I need could be forever altered. This
is a trend the Pacific Coast
to know? Trail Association is working
to eliminate.
The big changes in 2020 cover
the PCT long-distance permit,
which applies to trips of 500
or more continuous miles and
allows people to travel through
areas where local wilderness
IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; GETTY
permits would otherwise be
required. Changes include: travel
in the Southern Sierra must be
continuous, with no skips or
changes in direction, and must
be completed in no more than
35 days; a daily limit of 15 people
to compete with cheap, mass-
produced souvenirs. Social
enterprise Venezia Autentica
has a list of local artisans
and entrepreneurs.
You can escape the crowds
simply by avoiding the vaporetti
waterbuses and keeping a
block or two off the main
drag. Prioritise lesser-known
sights, like Chorus Association
churches, or the Querini
Stampalia Foundation Museum.
And if you must visit St Mark’s
Square or the Rialto Bridge, do
it first or last thing — or off -
season. veneziaautentica.com
JULIA BUCKLEY
can start their long-distance
trips at the Northern Terminus. If
permit holders skip any portion
of the Southern Sierra and wish
to return to travel through the
area, they must obtain new
permits from the local land
management agencies; and
northbound long-distance
hikers starting at the Southern
Terminus will need to secure
a permit, as they have since
2013. The effective period has
changed to between 1 March
and 31 May, 2020. There are 50
permits per day, as in years past.
The Pacific Crest Trail
Association, the US Forest
Service and other land managers
hope people continue to find
rest and rejuvenation on the PCT
while minimising their impact on
the trail and the special places
it goes through. It’s up to all of
us to preserve our public lands.
pcta.org MARK LARABEE
Q // As a UK citizen,
what do I need to
know about the recent
changes to South
Africa’s visa
requirements?
As of November 2019, it’s now
significantly easier for families to
visit South Africa. Minister of
home affairs, Dr Aaron
Motsoaledi, has signed a waiver
that allows foreign children to
enter the country without the
need for additional supporting
documents. This means that
children from countries where
visas aren’t required, such as the
UK and Ireland, are no longer
required to bring consent letters
or unabridged birth certificates
(containing information of both
biological parents or legal
guardians) to travel to and from
South Africa.
From comfortable lodges
to family-friendly safaris,
adventure tours and dining
experiences, there’s a lot on
offer for families visiting the
country. The visa updates are
great news for the destination
as the relaxation of entry
requirements will undoubtedly
encourage families and more
visitors to visit the country in
2020 and beyond.
UK and Irish travellers who are
visiting South Africa for tourism
or business purposes for a period
of up to 90 days don’t require a
visa. dha.gov.za southafrica.net
KGOMOTSO RAMOTHEA
THE EXPERTS
TIM HENSHALL //
KAMAGEO
MARK LARABEE // PACIFIC
COAST TRAIL ASSOCIATION
JULIA BUCKLEY //
FREELANCE WRITER
KGOMOTSO RAMOTHEA //
SOUTH AFRICAN TOURISM
March 2020 151
TRAVEL GEEKS

THE INFO

ARRIVALS & DEPARTURES

VISITOR ARRIVALS ARE ON THE UP IN VILNIUS AND MEXICO CITY — BUT WHERE
ELSE HAS SEEN A CHANGE IN TOURIST NUMBERS? WORDS: NICOLA TRUP

-55.9% -14.2% -9.5% 9.7% 12% 13.7%

HONG KONG ICELAND SRI LANKA PARIS MEXICO CITY VILNIUS

Hong Kong saw Iceland’s Keflavík Tourist numbers In 2018, Paris There were Lithuania’s capital
a 55.9% slump in Airport saw fell after the 2019 knocked London 15.7 million had 1.1 million
visitor numbers, visitor numbers Easter bombings, off the top spot of visitor arrivals visitors in the last
from 5.9 million in quadruple between notably in May most-visited city in the Mexican nine months of
November 2018 to 2011 and 2018 (down 70% on the in Europe. It had capital between 2019 (up 13.7% on
2.6 million a year (from 540,000 to same month in 19.1 million visitors, January and 2018’s figures) in
on — likely due 2.3 million). In 2019, 2018). By November, up from 17.4 million October 2019, the wake of the
to the ongoing the figure fell 14.2% the difference was in 2017 — London compared to ‘G-spot of Europe’
political protests. to 1.9 million. just 9.5%. had 19.09 million. 14 million in 2018. tourism campaign.

AMSTERDAM
TAKE THREE
Tourist taxes
SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS NEW ZEALAND
A$15M
As of January 2020, Highland Council has An ‘admission fee’ (£7.9m) The cost of
hotel guests in voted to introduce of NZ$35 (£18) was Tourism Australia’s
BRITISH ATTRACTIONS the Dutch capital a £1-per-night tax introduced in 2019 for
most recent TV
IN NUMBERS must pay €3 (£2.55) on campers, which most foreign visitors;
per person per will go towards Australians and some campaign starring
Kylie Minogue,
2,855,438
night, as well as the maintaining local Pacific Islanders
established 7% tax. towns and villages. are exempt. which has since
The number of visitors to
the Tower of London in 2018, been suspended due
making it Britain’s most-visited to the bushfires.
paid attraction.
COUNTRIES MOST VISITED BY UK RESIDENTS IN 2018
#1
A 3.7% rise in the number SPAIN 1 15,618,000
of visitors to Tate Modern FRANCE 2 8,556,000
saw it become the country’s ITALY 3 4,325,000
most-visited free attraction, USA 4 3,472,000
knocking the British Museum IRELAND 5 3,218,000
off the top spot. PORTUGAL 6 2,818,000 In Bruges
2018
-4%
GERMANY 7 2,813,000 In an effort to reduce visitor
NETHERLANDS 8 2,716,000 numbers, the Belgian city has
Britain saw a 4% drop in POLAND 9 2,472,000 stopped promoting itself as
overseas visitors in 2018. GREECE 10 2,468,000 a day trip destination. The
IMAGES: GETTY

Despite this, visitor numbers number of cruise ships docking

to tourist attractions increased
by 9%, possibly indicting an
uptick in domestic travel.
SOURCES: VILNIUS-TOURISM.LT; FERDAMALASTOFA.IS; NEWSROOM.MASTERCARD.COM;
at nearby Zeebrugge has also
SLTDA.LK/MONTHLY-TOURIST-ARRIVALS-REPORTS-2019; TTGMEDIA.COM; been capped at two per day,
PARTNERNET.HKTB.COM; THEGUARDIAN.COM; VISITBRITAIN.ORG;
EDITION.CNN.COM; INDEPENDENT.COM; TELEGRAPH.CO.UK; ONS.GOV.UK down from five.

152 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

HOT TOPIC
SHOULD VOLCANO TOURISM BE BANNED?
FOLLOWING THE CATASTROPHIC ERUPTION OF NEW ZEALAND’S WHAKAARI,
VOLCANO TOURISM IS UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT AND WE’RE ASKING — IS IT EVER SAFE?
WORDS: SIMON USBORNE
WHAT HAPPENED?
Shortly after lunchtime on 9
December 2019, White Island, also
known as Whakaari, suddenly
erupted. The rocky peak of a giant
underwater volcano lies about
30 miles off the east coast of the
North Island of New Zealand. It
had been increasingly active yet
was a popular destination for
licensed tour groups, including
those from cruise ships. Of the
almost 50 people who were on the
privately owned island when it
erupted, 19 died. A further 25 were
seriously injured.
In the days after, Jacinda
Ardern, the prime minister of
New Zealand, announced a year-
long investigation to determine
if any individual or company
was at fault. In the meantime, a
burgeoning sector of adventure
tourism that uses the spectacle
and risk of eruption to market
destinations all over the world
was facing serious questions
about safety.
WHY ARE VOLCANOES SO POPULAR?
We’ve been bewitched by the
elemental beauty of volcanoes for
as long as they have spewed lava
IMAGE: GETTY
into the sky. Vesuvius fascinated
the Romans before erupting in
AD 79 and covering Pompeii and
Herculaneum in rock and ash.
The discovery of those cities in
the 18th century turned Vesuvius
into an early tourist hotspot. More
recently, the rise in adventure
tourism has boosted the profiles
of active volcanoes, including
Kīlauea in Hawaii, Mount Merapi
in Indonesia, Mount Nyiragongo in
DRC and Cotopaxi in Ecuador.
DON’T ERUPTIONS LESSEN INTEREST?
Devastating eruptions only boost
the appeal of volcanoes. “After
the 2010 ash crisis in Iceland
we saw a massive increase in
tourism,” says Amy Donovan, a
geographer and volcanologist
at Cambridge University who
specialises in volcano tourism.
In Whakatane, the town closest
to White Island, a boat guide
told the New York Times he was
receiving enquiries only days
after the eruption. One woman
who’d visited volcanoes in Hawaii
wanted to see White Island close
up “to feel the fury”.
Volcanoes can be vital to the
local economy. Judy Turner,
mayor of Whakatane, described
White Island as the anchor of
the town, adding: “It’s still the
backbone of our economy, and
there would be an impact if it
closed to the public.”
The spectacle and financial
potential of volcanoes can
lead to excessive risk-taking of
different kinds. When Icelandic
authorities shut down access
to the Holuhraun volcano after
eruptions in 2014, one group of
tourists hired a private helicopter
to take them there under the
cover of darkness.
SHOULD WE SHUT DOWN TOURISM
TO ALL ACTIVE VOLCANOES?
The White Island blast is only the
most deadly of a string of recent
tragedies and close calls. Last
summer, an Italian hiker died when
he was struck by a falling rock after
an eruption at Stromboli in Italy.
The challenge for regulating
safe passage to craters is that
eruptions are almost impossible
to predict. Donovan says
scientists are working on this,
but the relative scarcity of active
volcanoes makes it difficult to
capture sufficient data.
Patricia Erfurt, an independent
volcano researcher who runs a
consultancy called Geotourism
Australia, says a blanket ban is not
the answer. She says: “Accidents
can always happen and volcano
tourism can only be as safe as the
people in charge of this tourism
sector are prepared to make it.”
TRAVEL GEEKS
WAYS TO VISIT
VOLCANOES AND
STILL STAY SAFE
DO YOUR RESEARCH
“Tourists tend to assume
that if they’re on a tour
it must be safe, but it’s
not straightforward with
volcanoes,” Donovan
says. Adventurers should
be confident that safety
steps have been taken.
Visitors to Stromboli have
to join an expert guide
and wear hard hats, for
example. There should
also be information about
activity levels. In Iceland,
the safetravel.is website
includes such warnings.
CHECK FOR
INFRASTRUCTURE
Erfurt says White Island
should have had concrete
shelters, which would
have offered visitors some
protection from falling
rocks. Such shelters, or
bunkers, are present
at several volcanoes.
They are, however, no
defence against gas or
steam. There should also
be evacuation plans and
marked escape routes.
COME PREPARED
The rise in cruise tourism
to volcanic sites means
many visitors aren’t used
to wild environments.
“Even geography
undergrads have been
known to turn up to active
volcanoes in heels,”
Donovan says. Sturdy
shoes are a must — at the
very minimum. But the
only way to avoid risk at all
is simple: stay well away.
March 2020 153
TRAVEL GEEKS
Kit list
TRAIN JOURNEYS
HOW TO MAKE YOUR LONG-HAUL TRAVEL
SMOOTHER, MORE SUSTAINABLE AND MORE
ENTERTAINING. WORDS: TAMSIN WRESSELL
1 AMERICAN TOURISTER
AIRCONIC SUITCASE
This suitcase was designed with
lightness in mind — it weighs just
3.2kg but doesn’t compromise
on design or durability. The
four wheels make it extra
manoeuvrable, too. RRP: £135.
americantourister.co.uk
2 BAM BAM BAMBOO EATING SET
Cut back on your plastic waste
by taking a reusable cutlery
set with you. This bamboo
set is part of Forma’s Zero
Waste Objective and includes
chopsticks, a fork, knife, spoon,
toothbrush and toothpaste jar
all neatly wrapped in a bag.
RRP: £24. formahouse.co.uk
3 PANDA BAMBOO EYE MASK
Made from 100% bamboo,
with hand-pulled mulberry silk
for added comfort. Bamboo
is environmentally friendly
and naturally antibacterial,
which helps protect the skin.
An adjustable band helps
shut out the light making this
ideal for those day naps on
train carriages. RRP: £17.99.
mypandalife.com
Three to pack: travel-size games
FOR GLOBETROTTERS
GAMES ROOM TRAVEL QUIZ
Has 140 cards and multiple-choice
answers based on travel trivia to see
you through those quiet patches on a
trip. RRP: £9. uk.wildandwolf.com
154 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
3
2 compact, the Nomad PowerPack
FOR WORDSMITHS
BANANAGRAMS
Kind of like a fast-paced Scrabble, with
players racing to use all their tiles to
build their own crossword grid.
RRP: £15.99. bananagrams.com
4
4 PICTURE ORGANIC CLOTHING
CATY TECH LEGGINGS
Comfortable clothing makes
long-distance travel a little more
bearable. Made from recycled
polyester and spandex, these
leggings feature flatlock seams
for extra comfort. RRP: £49.99.
picture-organic-clothing.com
5
5 CANON POWERSHOT SX740 HS
This pocket-sized point-and-
shoot camera has 40x optical
zoom and 4K of video recording.
It has a responsive shutter speed
and continuous stills shooting to
help capture scenery in HD
— even on fast-moving transport.
RRP: £349.99. currys.co.uk
6
6 NOMAD POWERPACK
Designed to be rugged and
has integrated Bluetooth tracking
in case it’s misplaced. It includes
enough battery to charge a phone
three or four times, and has USB-C
and USB-A outputs. RRP: $119.95
(£92). hellonomad.com
FOR RULE-BREAKERS
FLUXX 5.0 CARD GAME
Ideal for long journeys in need of
variety, Fluxx is a card game with ever-
changing rules, so no two games are
the same. RRP: £13.62. amazon.co.uk

Tech traveer
DESTINATION INSPIRE
MOST OF US CAN BOOK TRIPS WITHOUT A TRAVEL AGENT, BUT HOW DO YOU
DECIDE WHERE TO GO? THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT TOO
When you’re at the early planning
stages of a trip, Cluey is a good
app to start with. It presents
you with a range of preferences,
including weather, air quality,
safety and LGBTQ+- and vegan-
friendly locations. You can even
list the kinds of activities you
enjoy and how long you’d like to
fly. Suggested trips are sourced
from more than 4,500 travel
destinations around the world.
GET THE GADGET
AirFly Pro
If you want to indulge in the in-
flight entertainment and still use
your fancy wireless headphones,
the AirFly Pro is a great little
gadget that lets you connect
any brand of wireless Bluetooth
headphones or earbuds, even
if there’s only a wired jack
IMAGE: GETTY
connection available. And
because up to two people can link
to the device at the same time it’s
If you’re more interested
in keeping the cost down,
GreatEscape will tell you the
cheapest cities to fly to on your
selected dates. You can sort the
results by price or popularity,
adding filters such as direct flight
only, visa requirements, weather
and activities. Once you’ve
settled on a destination, you can
sign up for ‘deal alerts’ and the
website’s bot will keep an eye out
also useful for watching a movie
on the hotel room TV without
disturbing a sleeping companion.
The battery lasts for more than
16 hours between charges and
with a flip of a switch you can
even use it as an aux-in adaptor
to send audio from your phone
to a car stereo or non-Bluetooth-
enabled speaker. RRP: £49.99.
twelvesouth.com
TECHNOLOGY REPORTER FOR @BBCCLICK AND
AUTHOR OF WORKING THE CLOUD,
KATE RUSSELL PICKS THE LATEST INNOVATIONS
for any special offers from ‘all
the travel agents and airlines in
the world’ on your behalf.
If you’re using your travels to
connect with friends on distant
shores, use Find Friend Flights
to figure out a good place to
meet halfway. Just input the
two starting airport locations
and your respective email
addresses and the free version
of this app will email you both
when it spots a good deal. If
you upgrade to the premium
account, you can add time
windows and budgets, as well
as see even more deals.
Another handy tool
that offers lots of travel
inspiration is Postagraph. It’s
a wonderfully visual app with
loads of content and reviews
provided by its users. You and
a friend can browse the posts
in the app and book similar or
even identical trips. Itinerary
planned, the app goes on to let
you create a scrapbook of your
own experience, which can be
shared publicly or just kept
between you.
TRAVEL GEEKS
TOP TIPS FOR...
Google Maps hacks
Get more out of Google Maps with
these useful tricks.
TIP ONE
That little blue dot on the map to
mark your location has some cool
functionality if you give it a tap
— this opens options to see nearby
places and share your location
through popular apps like SMS,
WhatsApp and Messenger. You can
also ‘save your parking’ — tapping on
‘More Info’ here lets you add parking
details and set an alarm for when
your ticket or meter is due to expire.
TIP TWO
You can find the nearest ‘anything’
by typing the kind of place you’re
looking for (i.e. cafe or petrol station)
in the search field rather than a
physical address.
TIP THREE
If you pass somewhere that you’d
like to come back to, you can tap
and hold the map to open an options
menu that includes ‘save’. Your saved
locations are available in one tap
from the main screen.
@katerussell
katerussell.co.uk
March 2020 155
TRAVEL GEEKS
FREQUENT FLYER
IN-FLIGHT MEALS
MALAYSIA-BASED AIRLINE AIRASIA HAS OPENED A RESTAURANT IN
KUALA LUMPUR THAT SELLS ITS IN-FLIGHT MEALS. BUT WHY DOES FOOD
OFTEN TASTE SO DIFFERENT IN THE SKIES? WORDS: DAVID WHITLEY
When were in-flight meals
first served?
Sandwiches or fruit were the
options offered 101 years ago for
the first ever in-flight meal, which
was served on a Handley Page
Transport London to Paris flight.
Dining in the skies has changed
since 1919 and, although the
reputation of in-flight meals
varies, things have improved. So
much so, that after noting positive
conversations on social media
about their in-flight meals, airline
AirAsia has successfully opened a
fast food restaurant — Santan.
Why can they taste so bad?
The human ability to taste is
significantly reduced at altitude
— studies reckon our perception
of saltiness and sweetness are
30% lower. Cabin conditions play
a part too — the pressurisation
and lack of humidity leads to
nasal passages drying up, so
everyone’s effectively eating with
a minor cold. Even noise plays a
part — in a loud cabin, biting into
crunchy food doesn’t provide the
same aural satisfaction.
Why all the sauce?
In-flight meals tend to skew
towards curries, stews and
156 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
anything else slathered in sauce.
That’s due to the dehydration
factor, both for the food and the
people eating it. Reheat chicken
while inside a dry cabin, and
it’s going to come out devoid of
moisture and tenderness, unless
it’s covered in something wet.
It’s partly a flavouring thing,
too. When the taste buds and
olfactory system aren’t working
quite as well, being able to bung
extra seasoning in or ramp up
the salt can be the difference
between bleakly bland and
tasting pretty good.
Which foods don’t work?
There’s a reason bread rolls are
usually served straight out of the
oven — bread goes stale very
quickly in-flight. You’re also much
more likely to get rice than chips,
as fried food is hard to stop from
going grimly soggy. Fattier cuts
of meat are usually used, too, as
they’re more moist and tender to
the dehydrated mouth.
Some wines don’t work as well,
either. Earthier, tannin-heavy
wines can taste like dirt in the air,
whereas more aromatic varietals
and fruitier, sweeter types like
Rieslings and Shirazes work much
better with the sky high palate.
Are meals cooked on board?
No — due to time, space and
safety. They’re designed and
made in often vast factories
near the airport. Singapore
Airlines’ facility in Singapore
has around 1,200 chefs and 19
kitchens producing more than
80,000 items a day. It even has a
simulated cabin to replicate the
pressurisation for tasting when
experimenting with new recipes.
The aim is to keep things
as fresh as possible, so meals
are cooked and cooled on the
ground as close to departure
as possible, then wheeled on
board and heated up in the galley
ovens. Cabin crew then follow
instructions on how to serve the
various dishes.
What if I have special
dietary requirements?
Most airlines are very
accommodating. British Airways,
for example, offers 14 different
special meals, including those
compliant with Hindu, Jain,
Jewish and Muslim religious
beliefs, plus low-calorie, gluten-
free, diabetic-friendly, low-fat,
low-salt and low-lactose options.
Not all are automatically carried
on board, so ask in advance.
DELICIOUS
DISHES?
Our favourites from
the major airlines
EMIRATES ECONOMY
(LONG HAUL)
Paneer makhani served
with cumin rice with raisins
and cashew nuts or grilled
chicken with sundried
tomato pesto, mashed
potatoes and seasonal
vegetables.
BRITISH AIRWAYS ECONOMY
(LONG HAUL)
The Taste of Britain menu is
available for a £16 upgrade
fee and includes Loch Fyne
smoked salmon with creme
fraiche and caper berries;
slow-roasted Wiltshire pork
belly with celeriac mash
and sauteed broccolini; and
summer berry pudding with
Cornish clotted cream.
VIRGIN ATLANTIC ECONOMY
(LONG HAUL)
Chicken teriyaki with jasmine
rice and Japanese inspired
mixed vegetables or beef
chilli melt with maple syrup
glazed potato wedges.
UNITED AIRLINES ECONOMY
(LONG HAUL)
Mozzarella and roasted red
pepper agnolotti in vodka
IMAGE: GETTY
sauce, served with kale,
fire-roasted peppers, a soft
baguette and apple wheat
berry grain salad.
PROMOTIONAL
VIDEO
 IN THE NEXT ISSUE

Ireland

From first-class whiskey to St Patrick’s Day, the cultural riches of

the Emerald Isle are famous the world over. In our next issue, we
head to the source and raise a glass to Irish culture, whether it’s
tasting the culinary revolution or exploring its thriving arts scene

Plus // Angers, Austria, Bologna, Greece, Kigali,

Shetland, Singapore, New Mexico, Vancouver

APRIL issue
On sale 5 March 2020
For more information on our subscription offers,
see page 174

158 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 PARTNER CONTENT FOR PARKLANE, A LUXURY COLLECTION RESORT & SPA

DISCOVER THE
LIMASSOL COASTLINE
Set off to explore the wonders the sunny district of Limassol has to
offer, from urban hubs to quaint villages with ancient traditions

Once Cyprus’s main port and industrial
centre, the lively district of Limassol has
become one of the island’s most popular
resorts. This region has much to offer, from
long stretches of beach and picturesque
cultural draws to family attractions.
Parklane, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa,
Limassol provides the perfect base from
which to discover the must-visits in south
Cyprus and beyond.
3
Enjoy fun for all the
family at Park Kidz
When the kids start feeling restless,
Parklane Limassol has just the place to
keep them busy: Park Kidz, a pleasure
centre for children that has a themed castle,
outdoor playground and multi-activity
pool. Under the watchful eye of trained
staff, your brood can splash about the pirate
ship and waterslide — plus there’s a varied
Essentials
Parklane, a Luxury Collection
Resort & Spa, Limassol appeals
to both families, with Park Kidz,
and couples, with a Lifestyle Suite
only for adults. There’s a sandy
beach, three tennis courts, a mini-
football pitch, watersports with a
PADI diving center, outdoor and
indoor pools as well as numerous

1
programme of activities. restaurants and bars.
Visit the city of Limassol

Limassol’s dishevelled glamour and
thriving centre are an instant hit with
travellers. Start at the Marina, with its shiny
yachts, and follow the seaside promenade to
the Old Town, with its traditional shops and
bustling restaurants and cafes. Don’t miss
the 14th-century castle, whose walls conceal
the Cyprus Medieval Museum and upper
ramparts look out over city and sea.
4
Learn the art of
embroidery in Lefkara
Feeling crafty? In Lefkara, famed
for its painstakingly crafted embroidery,
you can spot women huddled together,
deftly creating pieces of lace in courtyards.
Join a workshop and learn all about this
ancient industry before walking the streets
— past Venetian merchant dwellings,
How to do it: Several UK airlines
fly direct to Larnaca or Paphos;
from there, the transfer by car to
the hotel takes around an hour.
The hotel can arrange tours of
Lefkara Village at extra cost,
while Park Kidz is free of charge.

2
winding alleys and carved doorways.
Tour the wine-making

village of Omodos
Take a day trip to the village of
Omodos in the Troodos Mountains, with
its ‘private museums’ in local houses and
quirky stores. A big draw is the viticulture
scene, which thrives thanks to the area’s
hot climate and fertile soils. Among the
vineyards are dozens of cellar doors luring
travellers with tipples from local producers.
5
Relax in the Kalloni spa
Covering an area of more than
30,000sq ft, the hotel’s spa is a
destination in itself. There are 14 treatment
rooms as well as three suites, two of which
have a Russian Banya. To complete the
experience, be sure to try the supervised
Thalassotherapy Program, which takes
guests through five different pools.

To find out more, visit parklanecyprus.com or call +357 25 862000

WILDLIFE CONSERVATION

BEAR WITNESS
THE MARSICAN BROWN BEAR IS TEETERING ON THE BRINK OF EXTINCTION
— ITS NUMBERS BROUGHT PERILOUSLY LOW DUE TO HUMAN INTERFERENCE. BUT
REWILDING AND CONSERVATION INITIATIVES IN ITALY’S ABRUZZO NATIONAL PARK
MEAN THE ANIMAL’S NUMBERS ARE FINALLY ON THE RISE. WORDS: SIMON USBORNE

W
hen Umberto Esposito
was 14, he left his home
in Pescasseroli to go
for a hike with two friends. It
was September, and the boys,
who’d grown up in the mountain
town in Abruzzo National Park,
wanted to see deer during the
breeding season. Esposito took
with him an old film camera and
some binoculars.
As the trio reached the edge of
a high mountain meadow in the
Central Apennines, heavy rain
forced them to stop. Beneath
beech trees, blueberry bushes
were laden with fruit. The wind
that had carried the rain was
approaching from the trees,
taking their human scent with
it. “It was then that I saw them,”
Umberto recalls, as we hike in the
same range, almost 25 years later.
The boys had disturbed a
family of bears gorging on berries
before their hibernation. There
were three adults, one of which
had two cubs. “She was standing
up facing me, only 10 metres
away, with a cub each side of
her,” Umberto says, recalling
he adds. “Thinking back, it was
the moment I decided I had to do
something to protect them.”
Abruzzo’s bears remain in
great need of protection. The
Marsican brown bear (also
known as the Apennine brown), a
subspecies of the more numerous
Eurasian brown bear, is critically
endangered. There are no more
than 60 left across a patchwork
of national and regional parks,
villages and farmland, with most
found in the Abruzzo National
Park, in central Italy. I’m hiking
in its northeastern quarter with
Umberto, not far from Pescasseroli
— a town with a renowned pastry
pit stop, Bar dell’Orso, named for
the local bears.
In the middle of October, a few
weeks before hibernation begins,
the leaves of the centuries-old
beech trees that cover the high
valley are turning a glorious
gold, which the autumn sun only
burnishes further. Umberto, a
guide with Wildlife Adventures, a
company he cofounded in 2009,
puts my chances of seeing a bear
at “about two in five”. To increase
numbers have only compounded
their peril, with a high level
inbreeding often resulting in
depression and disease.
In 2011, when conservationists
here spotted only one mother
with cubs, extinction loomed like
a storm cloud. In 2013, the Italian
newspaper La Repubblica ran a
story detailing a plot to kill dozens
of bears with poisoned bait.
Conservation in action
Umberto and his business partner
and fellow guide, Valeria Roselli,
who joins us for the weekend,
have long fought to increase
awareness and protection. But
organised efforts have only
recently gathered pace. In 2012,
newly established Abruzzo-based
non-profit association Salviamo
L’Orso (‘save the bear’) began
to focus minds and funds on
a series of initiatives aimed at
protecting the bear as an umbrella
species, which is a group with
large area requirements whose
conservation is of particular
benefit to the whole ecosystem.
Conservation measures are
IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK; AWL IMAGES; UMBERTO ESPOSITO

being rooted to the spot while
his friends ran away. “I knew
that if I didn’t have pictures,
nobody would believe me. I
took the last two frames on my
film and prayed.”
Realising the teenagers posed
no threat, the bears retreated
these odds, we’ll be staying
overnight in a rifugio, a mountain
cabin that his company created
on the site of an abandoned
shepherd’s hut.
Although Marsican brown
bears pose little threat to humans,
they’ve reason to fear us. In the
varied. They include vaccinating
dogs to reduce the chance of
bears picking up infections; sturdy
gates and electric fencing around
orchards, beehives and livestock;
thousands of blue reflectors along
roads to deters bears at night;
and increased monitoring, GPS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

into the woods. Umberto had
never seen a bear and eyeballing
a predator twice his size was to
change his life. “I said in my mind
then, ‘I need to make something
of this because it’s one of the
most magical things I have seen’,”
past, the animal was treated as a
pest due to its tendency to raid
apiaries, as well as orchards and
other crops. Dozens have died as
a result of poaching, poisoning
and encounters with cars, cattle
and stray dogs. Their dwindling
tracking and camera traps.
Some of the funding for
Salviamo L’Orso’s work has
come from an unlikely source:
Paul Lister, heir to the MFI
furniture fortune. In 2000,
Paul established The European
Marsican Brown Bear,
a critically endangered
species; Gran Sasso d’Italia,
Apennines; bear footprints
in Abruzzo National Park;
signpost for the Rifugio
Terraegna in the Coppo del
Morto beech forest

160 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
WILDLIFE CONSERVATION

March 2020 161

READER OFFERS

JAPAN
CAPITALS & CULTURE
JAPAN:
CAPITALS
& CULTURE
Experience Japan’s unique
culture on this 10-night
Tokyo to Kyoto journey
from Flight Centre
Experience the wonders of Japan with Flight Centre, the
official provider of exclusive reader offer adventures for DAYS 1-4
National Geographic Traveller (UK) UK to Tokyo: Fly to
Tokyo and discover
Michelin-starred
Japan is where the past and future meet, a The traditional wooden houses and restaurants, world-class
land of Blade Runner-esque cityscapes and 17th-century architecture of Takayama give shopping and the iconic
traditional 17th-century architecture. The visitors a taste of ancient Japan — the city Shibuya Crossing
cultural attractions of the country’s towns is home to ornate temples and shrines from
and cities are matched by striking natural the Meiji era. Keen hikers, meanwhile, can DAYS 5-6
beauty, panoramic hiking trails and snow- explore the tea houses and hiking trails Nagano: Explore the
topped mountain ranges. of the Japanese Alps, a series of mountain breathtaking Lake
Step into the future at Tokyo’s manic ranges that bisect the island of Honshu. Kagami-ike and Mount
Shibuya Crossing, the city’s answer to Finally, stately Kyoto has historically Togakushi, as well as the
Times Square. Tokyo is also a paradise served as the imperial capital and is home striking Zenko-ji Temple
for foodies, with more Michelin-starred to more than 2,000 temples. It’s the
restaurants than any city in the world. perfect place to check out a traditional tea DAYS 7-8
Host of the 1998 Winter Olympics, ceremony, as well as enjoy some pampering Takayama: Visit quaint
Nagano is nestled among striking mountain time in an onsen (Japanese hot spring). wooden houses, Meiji-
scenery and offers plenty of skiing Flight Centre’s Japan: Capitals and era temples or Japan’s
opportunities. Visitors can admire Mount Culture itinerary lets you to experience all of Northern Alps and soak
Togakushi, which is dramatically reflected these amazing attractions and many more. up local traditions on a
in the mirror surface of Lake Kagami- The company’s expert travel consultants can food and culture walk
ike. The city was built around Zenko-ji, a accommodate any needs to tailor-make the
stunning seventh-century Buddhist temple. perfect Japanese getaway. DAYS 9-11
Kyoto: Witness the
beauty of Japan’s former
capital. Indulge in a
traditional tea ceremony
and visit the huge Buddha
of Tōdai-ji

WHAT’S INCLUDED
■ Indirect international
flights
■ 10 nights in four-star
hotels and hand-picked
accommodation
■ Japan Rail Pass
■ Takayama morning
food & culture walk
■ Tea ceremony & Nishiki
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES

market tour

11 DAYS FROM
£2,669PP

Excellent
For more information,
Based on over 26,000 reviews on visit flightcentre.co.uk
or call 0808 239 0700

Prices are correct as of 20 January 2020 and are subject to change. Prices may be higher or unavailable for certain travel dates. All prices are per person. Holidays and accommodation are based on two adults sharing.
Airfares are Economy Class on specified airlines from London, unless otherwise stated. For full booking conditions, visit flightcentre.co.uk. Flight-inclusive holidays are financially protected by the ATOL scheme.

REWILDING RETREATS: EUROPE’S
EMERGING NATURE EXPERIENCES
ENGLAND
Having spent years trying to make his family farm in
Sussex viable, Charles Burrell and Isabella Tree gave
up altogether and began rewilding the land. Almost
20 years later, Knepp Wildland is a haven for once-rare
species such as the turtle dove and peregrine falcon,
and only 12 miles from Gatwick Airport. It’s also a tourist
attraction, offering safaris and glamping. knepp.co.uk
GERMANY
Fanning out along the border of Poland and Germany,
the Oder Delta is an increasingly wild region that
contains both marine and freshwater ecosystems.
A shift away from intensive agriculture in recent
years has seen an influx of migratory waterbirds,
as well as white-tailed eagles. The European
Safari Company offers canoe and boat trips.
europeansafaricompany.com
BULGARIA
The Rodopi Mountains, most of which lie in Bulgaria,
have long been popular with hikers, thanks to an
unspoilt landscape and a stunning array of bears,
wolves, golden jackal and otters. The region is also
a flagship project for Rewilding Europe, which is
working to boost numbers of the once-threatened
griffon vulture. rewildingeurope.com
ROMANIA
The European Nature Trust (TENT) began its work
in Romania’s Carpathian Mountains. Only two-and-
a-half hours east of Bucharest, wolves, bears and
lynx roam Europe’s most unfragmented forest,
IMAGE: GETTY
where bison have been reintroduced. A TENT trip
includes a helicopter flight and time with the charity’s
local partner, Foundation Conservation Carpathia.
theeuropeannaturetrust.com
Nature Trust (TENT); to date, the
nature conservation charity has
ploughed his family’s millions into
projects in Scotland — where he
bought Highland estate Alladale
in 2003 — Romania, Spain and,
most recently, Abruzzo. “I’ve got
a bit of a thing for bears and large
carnivores,” Paul tells me.
In 2019, TENT began offering
trips to some of the projects it
supports as part of a broader
mission to raise awareness, as
well as money. Working with
Wildlife Adventures, the charity
offers private group trips to help
support its work and that of
Salviamo L’Orso.
On the hike towards the refuge,
I see signs of bear activity: hairs
caught in a length of barbed wire
(its points blunted with a file)
pinned to a beech tree against
which bears are known to rub.
Bears are so loyal to specific
trees that many develop curved
trunks. They come in the spring to
leave scent, as part of the mating
process, or before hibernation
to mark territory. The hairs left
behind can be used to trace
activity and for genetic testing.
In high meadows, I see more
evidence of the animals: paw
prints in the mud at a watering
hole. The sun is beginning to set,
and I sit on a hill above the water,
binoculars raised. I spot deer,
WILDLIFE CONSERVATION
Marsican brown bear,
Abruzzo National Park
chamois and golden eagles — all
of this just two hours by road from
Rome — but not even a glimpse of
a bear. Valeria puts their reduced
activity this season down to a
shortage of beech nuts, an ursine
staple. “When there are a lot of
nuts you know there’ll be a good
number of cubs,” she says. Males
can chomp through 12kg of beech
nuts in a day.
As darkness falls, we climb
further up the valley to the
Rifugio Terraegna, easily the
best-appointed mountain hut I’ve
stayed in, with flushing toilets and
duvets. Over a rustic dinner of
sausage and broccoli pasta, Valeria
and Umberto tell me that doubling
the bear population would secure
its future. But to do that, the
animals need to be safe and free to
roam twice their current territory
— adult males require a breeding
area of up to 40sq miles.
Natural defences
By creating protected natural
corridors, Salviamo L’Orso
hopes to encourage bears
to repopulate parts of the
Apennines from which they
retreated centuries ago. This
means planting swathes of beech
trees on deforested mountains;
their nuts would also sustain wild
boars, voles and bird species,
boosting the food chain.
March 2020 163
WILDLIFE CONSERVATION
Bear conservation in Abruzzo
fits into the wider global
movement to rewild landscapes
that have been shaped and scarred
by human activity. Working
with a range of landscapes, from
deforested mountain regions
such as this to intensively farmed
areas, rewilding conservationists
want nature to take its course
again — even if that means giving
it the occasional nudge, where
necessary, to help it along in the
right direction.
Paul Lister, for example, is a
major proponent of the movement
in the Scottish Highlands, where
wild beasts once roamed thick
forest. In the 1980s, his family
invested in commercial forestry
to fuel its furniture empire. Now
he only wants to plant trees and
has so far added over a million
Scots pine saplings and other
native species to Alladale in the
past decade. In 2022, a number
of Scottish wildcats are due to
be released from captivity in the
Cairngorms in an attempt to halt
their decline. Elsewhere, campaign
groups are also calling for the
reintroduction of lynx, wolves
and — eventually — bears. “I
think there’s a growing realisation
that denuded landscapes aren’t
healthy,” Paul had told me.
Rewilding, he argues, also stops
soil being stripped away by rain,
164 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
thus reducing the risk of floods,
and increases the amount of
carbon dioxide removed from the
atmosphere.
After breakfast, I walk with
Umberto and Valeria back
down to the valley towards
Pescasseroli. We stop in a small
clearing for Umberto to check a
camera trap. The sealed box has
been strapped to a tree facing a
rubbing trunk. Motion sensors
trigger the recording.
“Take a look,” Umberto says,
as he hits ‘play’ on the little
screen inside the box. A mother
is embracing the tree like it’s an
old friend, while two five-month-
old cubs copy her, one on either
side. “When they were born, they
were only 30g, like a packet of
pasta,” Valeria says. They’re now
10 times that weight. A third cub
died in the summer, probably as
a result of a dog attack. The short
clip, recorded two days earlier,
is captivating — and will be the
closest I come to seeing a bear.
Further down the valley, a
solitary park ranger climbs
quickly through the forest.
Germano Palozzi, one of 35
rangers in Abruzzo, is looking
for tracks and evidence of illegal
hunting. He, too, grew up here. I
notice a bear tattoo peeking out
from the short sleeve of his khaki
uniform. “They’re my passion,” he
Wildlife watching at sunrise,
Central Apennines
says. One of the new challenges
they face, Germano explains, is
the unintended consequences
of raising awareness of bears as
an umbrella species and regional
mascot (it’s the symbol of the
Abruzzo National Park). “Now
if a person Instagrams a picture
of a bear at an apple tree in the
village, 100 people come and
surround it,” he explains. The
unintended consequences of
this are twofold, he adds: bears
may feel threatened and attack,
while frequent close contact
with humans risks weakening the
natural fear response wild animals
need for survival.
Umberto’s own close encounter
as a teenager inspired him to
become a guide and champion of
the bear, but he says he’d try to
avoid it today, preferring instead
to marvel at the animals from
a distance. Recently, Umberto
tells me, he watched through
binoculars as two cubs rolled
down a hill alongside their mother.
It was a moment of carefree play
that belied their species’ uncertain
future. “It was wonderful, and
when we came back down to the
village, we knew the bears were
in the area for the rest of the
evening without disturbance,”
he adds, as we end our hike by
the road. “This is the best kind of
moment we can share.”
HOW TO DO IT
The European Nature Trust
(TENT) can arrange trips to
Abruzzo National Park for
private groups (8-12). From
£1,450 per person for three
nights, including two nights’
full-board, at Albergo Villino
Quintilliani, and an overnight
at Refugio Terraegna, plus a
£500 donation to Salviamo
I’Orso. Airport transfers from
Rome included, but not flights.
theeuropeannaturetrust.com
MORE INFO
salviamolorso.it
theeuropeannaturetrust.com
IMAGE: UMBERTO ESPOSITO
wildlifeadventures.it/en
terraegna-mountain-hut
villinoquintiliani.it
alladale.com
kneppsafaris.co.uk
europeansafaricompany.com
rewildingeurope.com
PARTNER CONTENT FOR THE COSTA RICA TOURISM BOARD

DISCOVER
COSTA RICA’S
WILDLIFE
Costa Rica has a strong focus on conservation — its 29 national
parks, wilderness and wild landscapes are home to over 500,000
plant and animal species. This thriving wildlife paradise incorporates
a range of habitats, including cloud forests, mangroves, coastlines
and coral reefs. From the smallest invertebrates to the leviathans
of the ocean, our online A-Z highlights just some of the flora and
fauna that call Costa Rica home. Get acquainted with this selection
of seven animals, and head to the website to see all 26 species

1 BLUE MORPHO BUTTERFLY

Morpho peleides
The blue morpho is the most famous of this
country’s butterflies, and it’s the name given
to many species of the same Morpho genus in
Costa Rica. As it turns out, these butterflies
aren’t blue at all — the vivid colour is an
optical illusion conjured by microscopic scales
reflecting light away from the wings. With a
wingspan of up to eight inches, blue morpho
butterflies are among the world’s largest.
DID YOU KNOW: During flight, you might
witness a disappearing and reappearing effect;
blue morphos switch from blue to brownish
hues to confuse predators.

2 JAGUAR
Panthera onca
Once upon a time, jaguars were numerous
across the Americas, but their numbers have
dwindled from 400,000 to just 14,000 over the
past century, with poaching and deforestation
the biggest threats. Although sightings are
rare, the big cats can be spotted stalking the
rainforests and swamplands of Costa Rica.
TOP TIP: To boost your chances of seeing
a jaguar, sign up to a conservation project in
Tortuguero National Park and in the area of
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.
5 RED-EYED TREE FROG
Agalychnis callidryas
Bulging red eyes and orange feet with blue
flecks: red-eyed tree frogs are the brightly
IMAGES: COSTA RICA TOURISM BOARD; GREY HUTTON; ALAMY
coloured, nocturnal amphibians that cling to
leaves and trees using tiny suction cups on
their feet. You can spot them in the lowland
rainforests of Tortuguero National Park and
in the cooler regions of the Monteverde Cloud
Forest Reserve.
DID YOU KNOW: Sitting motionless for much
of the day with their eyes shut, the frogs flash
their eyes and feet when they sense a predator
is close, startling the hunter and giving
themselves time to make a quick getaway.
See the full A-Z of Costa Rica’s wildlife species at nationalgeographic.co.uk/costa-rica-wildlife
PARTNER CONTENT FOR THE COSTA RICA TOURISM BOARD
3 MANTLED HOWLER MONKEY
Alouatta palliata
Look skywards in any national park (especially
Santa Rosa National Park, Arenal Volcano
National Park and the Monteverde Cloud Forest
Reserve), and you might just catch sight of
a howler monkey hanging from its tail in the
canopy. They’re part of the New World monkey
group of primates (including spider monkeys
and capuchins), all five families of which can be
found in Costa Rica.
DID YOU KNOW: Their yelps and grunts can
be heard from up to three miles away.
6 RESPLENDENT QUETZAL
Pharomachrus mocinno
The resplendent quetzal has dazzling emerald
plumage that’s actually not green at all, but an
illusion created by light reflecting off stripes of
pigment. They’re threatened, so sadly they’re
difficult to spot, but keep a lookout in Arenal
and Poas Volcano National Parks during the dry
season (December to June) when rivers recede
and foliage thins, and you might just get lucky.
DID YOU KNOW: Historically, quetzals have
been revered by indigenous communities.
They inspired the Aztec and Maya snake god,
Quetzalcoatl, whose feathers were thought to
represent the green growth of spring.
4 LEATHERBACK SEA TURTLE
Dermochelys coriacea
Growing to over two metres in length and
tipping the scales at 1,200lb when fully grown,
the leatherback is the world’s largest turtle and
can live for up to 80 years. Males spend their
whole lives at sea, while adult females return
to Costa Rica’s shores every two years from
October to March to lay their eggs on a beach
in the region in where they were born.
TOP TIP: Head out on expert-led beach tours
to witness hatching turtles making a break for it
across the sands.
7 THREE-TOED SLOTH
Bradypus variegatus
There’s something endearing about gazing at
sloths hanging drowsily from a branch. And the
thing about sloths is they’re not in a hurry: spot
one of these treetop-living creatures and you
can stare at it for some time — these sluggish
beasts sleep for up to 20 hours a day. With
incredibly slow digestive systems, sloths can
take up to two weeks to fully digest a meal,
and their sleepy nature has evolved to help
conserve energy.
TOP TIP: To catch sight of both two- and
three-toed sloths, head to the rainforests of the
Osa Peninsular on the Pacific coast.
PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2020

PHOTOGRAPHY
COMPETITION 2020
IN ASSOCIATION WITH XXXXXXX |
COULD YOU BE OUR NE X T WINNER? NOVICE OR PRO, WE WANT TO SEE
YOUR BEST TR AVEL PHOTOGR APHY. SIMPLY SUBMIT IN YOUR PREFERRED
CATEGORY AND BE IN WITH A CHANCE OF WINNING A TRIP TO ME XICO

168 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION 2020

TH E C ATEG O RI E S

CLOSES
23 FEBRUARY

TH E PRIZE S

GRAND-PRIZE WINNER
Cultural wonders
of Mexico
Courtesy of National

C ITI E S L A N D SC A PE S
Geographic Journeys,
the winner will be able
From Sheffield to Sydney, cities provide endless Photography showcasing Mother Nature is to experience the best
inspiration for photographers. We’re looking for easy and difficult to do all at once. Whether it’s of Mexico’s cuisine and
dynamic images that capture the spirit of a city tundra or the tropics you shoot, be sure to show culture on this new,
and offer a glimpse into the urban world. flair and technique with your images. nine-day itinerary
across the country.
nationalgeographic
expeditions.co.uk
IMAGES: ROBERT HUBERMAN; MICHAEL SCOTT; JASMINE VAN HOEYLANDT; PAUL WYNN; SIMON MORRIS

ALL CATEGORY WINNERS

Manfrotto
Befree Advanced
Travel Tripod
The winners of
each category will
receive this must-
have accessory
that’s portable,
solid and easy to
set up — perfect for

W I LD LI F E PE O PLE
photographers on the
go. manfrotto.com
Animals don’t play by the rules, which makes We believe it’s the people that truly make a
capturing those fleeting moments all the more travel experience, so we’re after captivating,
rewarding. This category celebrates the most powerful shots that deftly show us the human
outstanding shots of the animal kingdom. side of a destination.

FI N D O UT MO RE O N LI N E & E NTE R AT

nationalgeographic.co.uk/competitions
Full T&Cs apply. Closing date: 23 February 2020 at 23.59 GMT. Judges to be announced

March 2020 169

FOOD FESTIVAL
18-19 JULY 2020
IN ASSOCIATION WITH XXXXXXX |

Experience
the world
through food
& travel

PHOTO: CHARLIE RICHARDS. FOOD STYLING: ANGELA ROMEO

I N PA RTN E R S H I P W ITH
 £10
E A R LY- The National Geographic Traveller Food Festival is back for another year.
B I R D TI C K E T S Join us for a truly international experience with an exciting line up of
AVA I L A B LE famous chefs, cookbook authors, experts and enthusiasts, where you can
learn about — and try — food and drink from around the world
N OW

We are pleased to reveal that Jack Stein, Asma
Khan, Olia Hercules and José Pizarro will be
bringing their wide variety of influences and styles
to the main stage this summer. We’ll find out what
dishes they love, their international inspirations
and more as they cook live and discuss their
careers at the two-day event.
Learn how to make some of the world’s most
exciting and distinctive dishes and drinks at
the Tarragon and Cinnamon Theatres, take part
in interactive food and drink workshops in the
Experience area and catch your favourite food
writers discussing their books, travel and cooking
at Speakers’ Corner.
There will be a varied programme of events,
including expert panel discussions, interviews
with top food personalities and demonstrations
from big-name chefs. Immerse yourself in
the world of food and travel, from the sunny
Mediterranean to the Caribbean as well as the
very best of British cuisine. There will be plenty
of inspiration for trips around the globe and what
to eat when you’re there, as well as the chance to
sample delicious food and drink from carefully
selected independent producers.
With a packed menu of things to do over the
weekend, pick a day, book your ticket and join us
for this year’s unforgettable culinary experience.

F O U R FA N TA S T I C C H E F S

J O S É P I Z A R RO O L I A H E RC U L E S JAC K S T E I N ASM A KHAN

Spanish chef and
author José has three
restaurants in London
— José Tapas Bar,
Pizarro Bermondsey
and José Pizarro
Broadgate — and in
2019 opened a fourth
restaurant, The Swan
Inn, in Surrey. He’s
written five critically
acclaimed Spanish
cookbooks; his
latest, Andalusia, was
published in May 2019.
Olia was born in Jack began his career Asma’s cooking career
Ukraine and lived in as a kitchen porter at began as a supper club
Cyprus before moving dad Rick Stein’s The in her home in 2012.
to the UK to study. Seafood Restaurant. In 2015, she opened a
After working as a He’s worked all over pop-up in London to
reporter, her interest in the world and is now much acclaim, and her
food led her to retrain executive development restaurant, Darjeeling
as a chef. She soon chef for Rick Stein. He Express, opened its
began to attract critical runs his own course at doors in June 2017.
acclaim for her writing Rick Stein’s Cookery Her debut cookbook,
and cooking and School, has fronted Asma’s Indian Kitchen,
has published three several TV shows and was published in 2018
cookbooks: Summer published his debut and she’s the first
Kitchens, Mamushka cookbook, World on a British chef to feature
and Kaukasis. Plate, in 2018. in Netflix’s Chef’s Table.

B U S I N E S S D E S I G N C EN T R E , LO N D O N
BOOK N OW: FOODFE STIVAL . NATG EOTR AVE LLE R .CO.U K
Tickets are non-refundable. Booking fees apply. All tickets include entry to the festival, with access to all interviews,
panel sessions and chef demonstrations. Limited availability.
EVENTS

TR AVE L GE EKS

NATURAL JAPAN
Japan’s heady juxtaposition of
high-tech metropolises and natural
wonders makes it one of the world’s
most popular travel destinations.
The current exhibition at London’s
Japan House, WOW: City Lights
27 and Woodland Shade, explores the
striking contrasts of the nation’s
FE B RUARY
futuristic cityscapes against the
quiet beauty of its landscapes.
On Tuesday 12 March, join our event

ITALY: FOOD & DRINK

at Japan House as we discuss the
incredible spots to visit in Japan, from
Tokyo’s best parks to the spectacular
misty lakes of Tohoku.

WHEN: Thursday The expert panel will include:

Diving into the history, breadth and regional variations 27 February from • Simon Wright, director of
18.00-20.30
of Italian gastronomy, our panel of experts will help you programming at Japan House
WHERE: Nespresso,
turn a getaway into a delicious culinary adventure • Matthew Joslin, from the Japan
54 Regent Street,
London W1B 4DY
National Tourism Organization
Our love affair of Italian cuisine continues — especially TICKETS: £10 — includes • Travel writer Oliver Smith
when we travel to the country. So when it comes to planning drinks and nibbles • Sake expert Natsuki Kikuya
a trip to sample Italy’s regional food specialities, it can be • Moderator Jo Fletcher-Cross,
difficult to know where to start. Modern Italian cooking has contributing editor at National
so much to offer, too, with an abundance of local ingredients Geographic Traveller, who will be
inspiring chefs to draw on their surroundings in innovative leading the discussion
and interesting ways. As well as a long history of wine-making,
Italy’s reputation as the capital of coffee, Campari cocktails WHERE: Japan House, 101-
and other tempting drinks make it a place to enjoy a full 111 Kensington High Street,
culinary experience. London W8 5SA
The panel will include Christine Smallwood, a food DATE: Thursday 12 March from
and travel writer who has written books about the 18.00-20.30
people, places and food of Lombardy, Umbria and Puglia. PRICE: £10 — includes drinks and
Moderator Connor McGovern, assistant editor at National nibbles, plus exclusive private view of
Geographic Traveller (UK), will lead a lively discussion on the WOW: City Lights and Woodland
planning a trip to Italy based around food and drink, touching Shade exhibition.
on regional dishes not to miss; the slow food movement;
what to drink wherever you are; and buying and cooking with IN ASSOCIATION WITH
local ingredients.
Whether you’re passionate about Pugliese bread or IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Piedmontese truffles, join us to learn how to put together the
fi nest of Italian food trips.
IMAGES: GETTY

FOR MORE INFO & TICKETS, HEAD TO NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/EVENTS

172 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 Wherever you go on holiday,
travel with confidence
Your health shouldn’t get in
the way of a getaway, which
is why Saga Travel Insurance
is flexible when it comes to
important medical matters.
In fact, in the last 10 years,
we’ve covered over 2 million
people with diagnosed
pre-existing conditions, so you
could set off with confidence
just like they did. And if you
do have a flare-up, medical
emergency or accident while
away, you know you can
call our 24/7 helpline. Plus,
everyone on your policy has
up to £10 million each to cover
the cost of emergency medical
treatment and transport, paid
upfront and direct.

If you’re over 50, call

0800 161 5181

stating reference GP1040
saga.co.uk/travelpress

Saga Travel Insurance is underwritten by travel insurance

Great Lakes Insurance SE, UK Branch.

CSA-TR2634v1
 SAVE

70%

| SPEC IAL OFFER |

10 ISSUES FOR £15
Treat yourself to a subscription to National Geographic Traveller (UK) — and save a huge
70% off the cover price. For just £15, you’ll receive 10 issues of the award-winning magazine,
packed full of captivating stories, practical advice and you-are-there photography to inspire
your next getaway. Winner of the Best Consumer Holiday Magazine at the British Travel
Awards in 2019, National Geographic Traveller is the perfect companion for both intrepid
adventurers and armchair travellers alike.

TO SU B SCRIB E, VISIT N ATG E OTR AV E LLE R . IMBM S U B S C RI P TI O N S .C OM /N GT SA LE

O R C ALL 01293 31216 6, Q U OTIN G ‘ N GT SA LE ’

T&Cs: Closing date for orders is 30 March 2020. The price shown is a UK Direct Debit offer. Your subscription will begin with the next available issue. All subscriptions are for a
12-month period. If you don’t cancel at the end of that period, the subscription will auto renew by Direct Debit for 10 issues at £30. All subscriptions are non-refundable. This is a
limited offer and may be withdrawn at any time. Please note: by subscribing, we’ll contact you about your subscription from time to time. National Geographic Traveller (UK) is
published 10 times a year, with double issues in Jan/Feb and Jul/Aug. Subscribers will receive five issues in every six-month period.
Plant
and gift a tree
When you gift a tree with Treedom, you are doing good things for
the planet and for farmers all over the world. Treedom creates
sustainable agroforestry projects, offering food security, income
opportunities and training to communities across 15 different
countries, including Kenya, Tanzania and Nepal.
Treedom also sends regular updates about the project in which
your tree is planted, and each individual tree is photographed and
geolocated - so one day you could even take a trip to visit your tree.
Find out more at Treedom.net.

Use code
” TREET15”
at checkout for
15% off your
order.

nbox
Readers, this is your
space. Let us know
what you think about
the magazine, give
us your unique travel
tips, or simply
ask us a question.
Get Instagramming,
emailing or tweeting!
GET IN TOUCH
inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk
in
A rucksack from
Bear & Bear worth
more than £90!
Lightweight, spacious and
stylish, the 20-litre Motion
Arc backpack is designed
for a wide range of outdoor
activities. Gear loops blend in
perfectly with the clean and
elegant design; a Hypalon
zipper garage also becomes
a gear loop. Both hip belt and
sternum strap are completely
removable and there’s a
15-inch laptop compartment
and a water-resistant floating
liner protecting your phone
or wallet from water hazards.
bearandbear.com
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES; GETTY
Have a query about
subscriptions?
Get in touch at
natgeotraveller@
subscriptionhelpline.co.uk
or call 01293 312166.
Barceloneta Beach, Barcelona
BELOW: Nam Chon Bay on the
Hai Van Pass, Da Nang, Vietnam
STAR LETTER
A rail good time
Four years ago, inspired by many articles
and tips in your magazine, we travelled as
a family of four with children aged 11 and 9
from Manchester to Barcelona by train. We
stopped in London and Paris, discovering
hidden gems such as the Joséphine Baker
Pool and the Jardin d’Acclimatation before
boarding the night train. We spent a week
around Argèles Plage and the beautiful
harbour village of Collioure, then went to
Barcelona. Tom Chesshyre’s ‘No-fly travel’
article (December 2019) has spurred us to
plan another train trip, this time to Portugal.
Again, via Paris and then onwards by train-
hotel to Lisbon and then up to Porto. Our
only challenge now is to stick to our itinerary
and not get distracted by all the other
possibilities! HELEN BESWICK
GET IN TOUCH
Life’s a beach
Your Vietnam cover story (Jan/Feb 2020) got
me reminiscing about the gap year I took a
couple of years ago after fi nishing university.
Ha Long Bay is incredible, but so much of
northeast Vietnam is also worth discovering.
One of my favourite spots is Quan Lan Island
— a laid-back, impossibly perfect paradise
with some of the most beautiful, unspoilt
beaches I’ve ever seen. ALEX WOODMAN
Delta dreams
I was so inspired by Emma Gregg’s piece
on the Okavango Delta (Jan/Feb 2020) that
my wife and I have just booked a safari in
Botswana as our big trip for 2020. It’ll be my
second time in southern Africa, having done
Kruger National Park and the Garden Route
in the 1990s, but it’ll be my wife’s fi rst, and
we couldn’t think of a better destination to
discover. We just can’t wait to experience it
all in real life. LESLEY LEONARD
March 2020 177
YOUR PICTURES

#NGTUK @NATGEOTRAVELUK
Follow us on Instagram
Every issue, we highlight the best photos you’ve for inspiring travel
shared with us on Instagram using #NGTUK photography
every day

@danieljtoal @taste4travelling @damonbeckford

Wild Highland cow, Scotland Millennium Square, Bristol Island of Senja, Norway

@margie_pap @annapurnauna @renata.mirkova

Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, China Sadhu, Jaipur, India Apartment Building, Chengdu, China

@jctravelography @travelling__sam @tattooedtraveller.co.uk

Elephant seal pup, South Georgia Island El Brujo Glacier, Chile Buenos Aires, Argentina

178 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
 in your element
adventure Our name and our passion. Uncovering playgrounds that offer the
[ad·ven·cher] richest, wildest experiences by hike, paddle, with locals, and more.

immersive Swim in a waterfall in Hawaii’s ancient Halawa Valley. Learn new dance
steps in the Darien Jungle. Your senses are awake and engaged, all day,
[ih·mur·siv ]
every day.

small ships Laid-back; 22-86 guests. That’s it. You get to know your travel
comrades quickly, and yet there’s always a quiet corner to take it all in.
[smaal ships]

we are adventure... you can be, too!

7-14
inclusive KAYAK | SNORKEL | HIKE | SKIFF
small ships, BIG adventures
nights 800-50060006
WILDLIFE | CULTURE | INSPIRED CUISINE
UnCruise.com
ALASKA | COLUMBIA & SNAKE RIVERS | PACIFIC NORTHWEST | HAWAII | MEXICO | COSTA RICA | PANAMÁ | COLOMBIA | GALÁPAGOS

UnCruise Adventures defined: uncruise.com/uncyclopedia