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RE-POSITIONING THE TRADITIONAL HANDLOOM SARI HERITAGE OF

BENGAL: STUDYING THE ROLE OF ‘GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS’

Conference Paper · March 2015

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 RE-POSITIONING THE TRADITIONAL HANDLOOM
SARI HERITAGE OF BENGAL
Studying the Role of ‘Geographical Indications’
ANKITA CHAKRABORTY
M. Phil. Research Scholar, Department of Geography,
Delhi School of Economics, University of Delhi, Delhi – 110007, India.
E-mail: pinkieechakraborty24@gmail.com

Dr. ANJAN SEN

Assistant Professor, Department of Geography,
Delhi School of Economics, University of Delhi, Delhi – 110007, India.
E-mail: dr.anjansen@gmail.com

ABSTRACT

Geographical Indications of Goods are defined as that aspect of industrial property which
indicates the geographical origin of the product, referring to a country or to a place situated
therein, as being the country or place of origin of that product. Typically, such a name
conveys an assurance of quality and distinctiveness which is essentially attributable to the
fact of its origin in that defined geographical locality, region or country. Under Articles 1(2)
and 10 of the Paris Convention for the Protection of Industrial Property, Geographical
Indications are covered as an element of the Intellectual Property Rights (IPRs). They are
also covered under Articles 22 to 24 of the Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property
Rights (TRIPS) Agreement, which was part of the Agreements concluding the Uruguay
Round of General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade negotiations. India, as a member of the
World Trade Organization (WTO), enacted the Geographical Indications of Goods
(Registration & Protection) Act, 1999, which came into force with effect from 15th September
2003.

Quality and distinctiveness associated with a product pertaining to a particular geographic

locality, region or country enhances the uniqueness of that very space. Such helps in
boosting up the economy of the place, the indigenous knowledge – the entire cultural
economic space as a whole. Considering another facet of it, Geographical Indications adds
up to the reputation of the place thereby helping in holding up the traditional heritage
associated with the product. The rich handloom tradition of Bengal has several stories to
offer in this respect. It not only promotes a more diffused pattern of ownership and location
but also has huge potential of employment generation intricately intermixed with the
development of the rural and semi-rural economy. The use of traditionally skilled and
unskilled labour force; and artisans has direct impact on poverty alleviation along with a
spread effect on domestic market.

With the view to protect the misuse of the unique technique of weaving, and the fame of the
exquisite variety of traditional handloom saris of the state; and to build up a commercial
brand with the exquisite variety, certain products were registered under the Geographical
Indication of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act, 1999. Speaking of the handloom sari
heritage, three varieties Baluchari, Dhaniakhali, and Santipore holds an immensely
significant position in the colourful feather of traditional handloom saris. From the depiction
of mythological scenes on the sari’s pallu to rich designs on cotton fibres, these saris have a
long stand accruing to their own uniqueness relating to the entire making process. The long
chain of processes has started almost three and half centuries ago. Creating such an art
encompasses immense effort and true touch of artisan’s delicate fingers. Possessing them is

Page 1 of 16
an asset. However, in recent times they have been facing other prominent trouble in matters
of the power loom production, shifting of occupation, low profitable returns, duplication of
products etc.

Keeping everything aside, the real story circles around how has the saris been able to
secure the notion of ‘traditional handloom heritage’ and can the majestic heritage of the
same be preserved amidst the modern fashion sway of western outfits even after the
Internationally recognised protection of the Geographical Indications being felicitated on it.
As it can be rightly said that the fruitful interplay of the protection of the ‘tangible and the
intangible’ over a concerned geographical space is what can hold its prestigious niche.

1. INTRODUCTION

India’s passage into industrialization and modernity has centred, to a significant extent, on
the cotton textile industry. In the present economic climate where dependency on foreign
capital and know-how is increasing all round, the handloom industry presents a sustainable
model of economic activity that is not energy intensive and has low capital costs, as well as
an extensive skill base. Its survival in, and adaptability to, a wide range of economic
conditions also needs to be understood in a proper perspective, in order to underline the
inherent viability of this enterprise.

Handloom is widely known in Bengal and is important since times immemorial. Several
descriptions of it have been given by different eminent personalities. Handloom Industry of
West Bengal has been a traditional heritage of the state where the handloom products have
earned their own names owing to their quality and demand. Handloom Industry occupies the
second largest primary activity of the state standing next to agricultural activity. People
engaged in this sector occupy working populace next to agriculture. So, the importance of
handloom can easily be ascertained from here. Handloom industry is the largest cottage
industry providing widest avenues for employment opportunities, next to agriculture, prime
thrust has been given to the implementation of schemes for promotion and development of
Handloom and Khadi sectors.

2. EVOLUTION OF HANDLOOM IN BENGAL

Handlooms have remained not only one of the important options of livelihoods but have also
been the saviours of the various traditional skills that have been inherited by the weavers
over generations. The unique and high skill oriented processes for creating the exquisite
fabrics have helped the handloom tradition survive the onslaught of automated production
system. It is estimated that today there are about 46 lakh handlooms in the world out of
which about 39 lakhs are in India. The total handloom production in India was about 549
crore square metres during 2003-04.While the major producers are India followed by
Bangladesh, Pakistan and Nepal, the importers of textiles and clothing were the USA, UK,
France and Italy.

Handlooms play a significant role in the Indian economy owing to their rural employment
potential, next only to agriculture and also for their contribution to exports from the country.
Since 1960 and up to 1995, the share of handloom production in the total textile production
remained more or less constant at about 23 per cent. However after 1995, it started
declining and is pegged at 13 per cent during 2004-05. The tradition of handloom is so
strong that the entire country is dotted with places famous for some or the other handloom
product.

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Handloom products have been a major part of export basket of the country. Saris, Dhotis
and furnishing have been the major contributors to the handloom exports basket.
Furthermore, the majority of these exports have been to Europe, USA and other Asian
countries.

Handlooms are a key element of the West Bengal economy. The Handloom Census of
1987-88 indicated West Bengal population of handloom weavers at 12,46,005, with 3,
38,499 looms. Of this, almost 23 percent were members of the poorer and relatively
disadvantaged Scheduled Castes .Amongst the population of weavers, almost 80 percent
worked on a full time basis as weavers, and the industry provided direct employment to
3,04,845 persons.

As per Census conducted by the Ministry of textiles, Government of India in 1995-96 in West
Bengal there are 3,50,994 handlooms providing direct and indirect employment to about
6,66,514 persons. By the end of 2001-02, 83,628 handlooms were registered under 2,203
working co-operatives societies. As per 3rd Handloom Census conducted in 2009-10 by
Govt. of India, the number of household units engaged in handloom activities in 4,06,761
with 6,65,006 handloom workers and 2,27,697 working looms.

Fig. 1: Prime Handloom Locations and their Products, West Bengal

Source – http://www.westbengalhandloom.org/htm/pragati_utsav.html

Page 3 of 16
3. BACKDROP OF HANDLOOM SARI HERITAGE IN BENGAL

According to The Hindu Business Line, "The Bengal cotton sari is a fashion statement,
wherever it is worn" and have a market all over the country. Among them, the embellished
beauty of the Baluchari saris is famous all over India, and on several occasions caters to the
demand of the international market as well. The three most renowned saris of the state
namely Baluchari, Dhaniakhali and Santipuri Sari have their own historical significance as
has been evident from the poems, stories, biographical manuscripts, dramas etc. of several
eminent personalities. Not only such, these saris have been widely known even now for the
unique, exquisite designs and motifs , the quality of material which adds to the level of
comfort and mainly of the skill associated in making such.

Baluchari, Dhaniakhali and Santipuri Saris find a very significant place in the colourful and
vibrant feather of traditional Bengal Handloom Saris. The name Baluchari is derived from the
word ‘Baluchar’, an area comprising several villages namely Belepur, Ranasagar, Baligram,
Baghdhara, Dubrokhali, Amuipara etc. approx 16 km away from Behrampur in the District of
Murshidabad in West Bengal; whereas the two other Saris of Dhaniakhali and Santipuri
originates from the name of the place from where they are manufactured as accordingly
Dhaniakhali Sari in Dhaniakhali of Hugli District and Santipuri Sari in Santipur of Nadia
District.

Baluchari is an exquisite silk saree of West Bengal origin, produced by highly skilled
designers and weavers having generations of experience in draw-boy-loom. They were
famous for their weaving skill. They weaved beautiful designs on silk fabrics mainly used as
sarees exclusively patronized by the Muslim Nawabs and aristocrats of the society, which
enabled them to create rare and memorable art form on fabric. With the abolition of the
‘Nawabs’ rule in Bengal, the British came and Baluchari perished. Baluchari was too costly
for the common people, so its production failed to be economically viable in the absence of
royal support. On the other hand, the weavers from Baluchar kept the craft confined to their
own community, thereby leading to its extinction.

After independence, around 1956, Baluchari was re-introduced in Bishnupur of Bankura

district due to the initiative of two well-known Bengali personalities, Shri Subho Tagore and
Smt. Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay. Since then, the popularity of the modern Baluchari Saree
has steadily grown and it has now been established as a symbol of the artistic language of
Bengal as well as India. Dhaniakhali was till the beginning of this century well known for
cotton Dhotis, though now it is only associated with the Saree named after it. The Saree
seems to have evolved from the narrow borders and the ‘Jalchuri’ of Dhotis until the more
advance chain Dobby and Jacquard helped to incorporate virtually every conceivable pattern
in the hope of capturing modern market.

Though the original Dhaniakhali Saree may be only 50 to 120-years old, it is described as
having a near-opaque off-white ground, a plain narrow 2.5 inches wide colored Borders
emphasized by fine stripes above. In time the Border was broadened and enclosed a Dobby
or Jacquard woven pattern. The present Dhaniakhali Saree is designed according to the
possibilities afforded by the Dobby and / or Jacquard. It is distinguished by its relatively
compact texture and the ‘Khejuchuri’ or Braid that marks its end piece which is more solid
than that of other Bengal Sarees. Modernization in the weaving style of Dhaniakhali Saree
actually started at the end of 19th century with the introduction of ‘Dobby’ designs. Use of
Jacquard for producing designs in border started only at the beginning of 20th century.

The Handloom Weaving tradition of Santipur had been recorded in the biographical
manuscript namely ‘Adwaityamangal’ of Shri Adwaityacharya (1460-1558). However, the
handloom weaving tradition of Santipur came up as an industry in the regime of Nadia king
Raj Rudra Roy (1683-94) and in the Mughal regime, the product of this place became so

Page 4 of 16
developed that it would have exported to Kabul, Baluchistan, Iran, Arab, Turkey, Greece etc.
The healthy trend continued till the early 20th century. Handloom products of this place were
famous for its designs, produced by hand using extra weft, color pattern and especially for
thin structure. Modernization in the weaving style of Santipuri Saree was actually started
towards fag end of 19th century with the introduction of ‘Dobby’ designs in border using Extra
Warp. At that time, production of a particular variety of saree namely ‘Kalabati’ created great
reputation in market. Use of Jacquard for producing designs in border started only at the
beginning of 20th century.

The journey of handloom Sari weaving tradition of Bengal was however, not smooth all
along. Due to industrial revolution at the beginning of 18th Century, the domestic market was
over flooded with the mill made fabrics from Manchester. It had to lose its place, as it could
not compete with the mill made fabrics. At that juncture, weavers of this area had to struggle
hard. As a consequence of the Swadeshi movement, the condition of the weavers was
improved and they were able to make a fair living.

4. CONCEPT OF GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS (GI)

4.1 Meaning of GI – The very basic meaning of GI rests on the fact that it is nothing but
certain distinctive names or symbols identifying products which are typical to or
belonging to a specified geographical area. Typically, such a name conveys an
assurance of quality and distinctiveness which is essentially attributable to the fact of
its origin in that defined geographical locality, region or country.

4.2 Evolution of GI – Under Articles 1(2) and 10 of the Paris Convention for the
Protection of Industrial Property, Geographical Indications are covered as an element
of the Intellectual Property Rights (IPRs). They are also covered under Articles 22 to
24 of the Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) Agreement,
which was part of the Agreements concluding in the Uruguay Round of General
Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) negotiations. However, India as a member of
the World Trade Organization (WTO) enacted the Geographical Indications of Goods
(Registration & Protection) Act, 1999, which came into force with effect from 15th
September 2003.

4.3 Importance of GI – Quality and distinctiveness associated with a product pertaining to

a particular geographic locality, region or country enhances the uniqueness of that
very space. Such as a whole helps in boosting up the economy of the place, the
indigenous knowledge, and the entire cultural economic space as a whole.
Considering another facet of it, GI adds up to the reputation of the place thereby
helping in holding up the traditional heritage associated with the product.

4.4 Procedure for Identifying and Dealing with GI Registered Goods

 Only an authorized user shall have the exclusive rights to use the Geographical
Indication in relation to goods in respect of which it is registered.
 It shall not be the subject matter of assignment, transmission, licensing, pledge,
mortgage or such other agreement. However, when an authorized user dies, his
right devolves on his successor in title.
 The Appellate Board or the Registrar of Geographical Indication has the power to
remove the Geographical Indication of an authorized user from the register.
However, the aggrieved person can file an appeal within three months from the
date of communication of the order.

Page 5 of 16
4.5 Infringement of GI
 When unauthorized use indicates or suggests that such goods originate in a
geographical area other than the true place of origin of such goods in a manner
which misleads the public as to their geographical origin.
 When use of GI results in unfair competition including passing off in respect of
registered geographical indication.
 When the use of GI results in a false representation to the public that goods
originate in a territory in respect of which a GI relates.

4.6 Benefits of Registration of GI

 It provides legal protection to Geographical Indications in India, and prevents
unauthorized use of a registered geographical indication by others.
 It promotes the economized prosperity of producers and enables seeking
protection in other WTO member countries.
 It boosts the exports of the GI’s by providing legal protection from duplication.
 It provides the protection of the rights of the manufactures and provides
protection against any infringement of GI.

5. GEOGRAPHICAL ORIGIN OF THE SARIS

Baluchari Sari, a symbol of artistic language of the state as well the nation is located in
Bishnupur also known as the terracotta temple town of Bankura district of West Bengal.
Bishnupur, the capital of old Mallabhum Kingdom is 34 kms away from the district
headquarter Bankura, and 78 km from the nearest industrial city of Durgapur. Baluchari Sari
is also produced in Panchmura and Sonamukhi, and across the district of Bankura covering
23° 15’ N and 87 ° 4’ E.

Famed poet, lyricist and writer of the pre -independence era D. L. Roy had also immortalised
the beauty of the handloom saris of Santipur. “There she wears the fine Dure of Shantipore,
The striking semblance of Dure of Shantipore, Look brother – That’s the Dure of Shantipore”.
Such special quality of saree of special yarn with special design produced at Santipur
located in the District of Nadia, West Bengal. Santipur between latitude 23° 14΄, and
longitude 88° 29΄, lies 96 km to the North of Kolkata on the banks of the river Bhagirathi in
the District of Nadia under Ranaghat sub-division, and covers an area of about 25 sq. miles.

Another Sari finding an important place in the colourful feather of traditional Bengal
Handloom Sari is the Dhaniakhali Sari is produced in Dhaniakhali between 22° 58’ N and
88° 05’ E in the district of Hooghly in Hooghly Sadar Division covering an area of about 276
sq. km. The Sari mainly comprises areas of Dhaniakhali Block, Haripal Block, Jangipara
Block, Tarakeshwar Block and parts of Khanakul, Arambag and Chanditala Block of district
Hooghly of West Bengal.

6. ECONOMY ASSOCIATED WITH THE PRODUCTION OF THE SARIS

‘Sari’ the term is intricately associated with the artistic touch of the weavers. Though the
weavers contribute to a major share in the making of the Sari, nevertheless, there has been
a long chain of people engaged in different sections of production which finally result in the
piece of the ethnic, elegant draping material enhancing the beauty of women.

6.1. Procurement of Raw Materials – For production of the Baluchari saris the silk yarns
comes from as far as Mysore, for better quality saris. Apart from Mysore, the silk yarns
are procured form Maldah and Murshidabad (places in West Bengal, famous for silk
production). Cultivation of Arjun trees (for cocoon production) is also done in

Page 6 of 16
 Bishnupur block. However, the silk yarns produced from the cultivation are of
negligible amount. Threads are locally made.

6.2. Production Process – The process involves three steps.

The First step is processing of the yarns. To make the yarn yielding, it is boiled in
mixture of soda and soap and then dyed in acid colour, according to the prerequisite of
the sari.

The second step is motif making. Making the patterns of the ‘pallav’ or ’anchal’ (end
part of the sari which requires the maximum embroidery) and other part of the
Baluchari saris is in itself an elaborate process. In case of Santipuri and Dhaniakhali
Sari the work is mainly concentrated along the borders and the anchal remains more
or less simple. The design is drawn on a graph paper, it is dyed and punching is done
using the cards. After punching, these cards are seamed in order, and fixed in the
jacquard machine.

The third stage is weaving. After the jacquard loam has been set up, weaving of a
simple baluchari sari takes place five to six days whereas a heavy baluchari sari will
almost take around 15-20 days to finish, with two weavers working on it on shifts. In
case of the other two saris, the average time required is 3-5 days.

6.3. Packaging – The packaging of the saris is a simple process. To pack a sari, two
persons are needed simultaneously. First the whole sari is rolled down on a round-
shaped beam. The beam is taken out from the loam and brought it to an open space,
where enough sunlight is there. After drying two persons start folding the sari
stretching it from both the side tightly. A thin metal rod is kept on each fold temporarily
to give it a precise fold. A thin starched brown paper is put inside the sari to give the
fold a proper shape. The last step is to put the sari inside a thick transparent polythene
bag.

6.4. Quality – Quality of these saris are taken care of precisely. The quality largely
depends on the skill of the weaver. The quality is checked from the dyeing of the yarn
to the packaging of the sari. Better quality Mysore silk is used for a good order in case
of Baluchari Sari. For Dhaniakhali and Santipuri Sari too, better quality cotton yarn is
bought from South India. If some problem is seen with the sari during the packaging
process, such is rejected and sold at cheaper rates. But the rate of rejection is
remarkably less for an experienced and reputed Mahajan (businessmen / middlemen
dealing with these saris).

6.5. Marketing – The marketing of these saris is feudalistic in nature. The weavers who
works on the sari has very minimal role in marketing system. The entrepreneur
weavers have their own role but their number is almost negligible. The Mahajans (big
businessmen) plays the role of middlemen between the weavers and the customers in
case of the weavers working under them. These Mahajans take the sari from the
weavers at a very nominal average cost for Baluchari Sari, which ranges from Rs.
1,000 to 1,500 and sell it further at a cost not less than Rs. 2,500 to 3,000.

In several cases these mahajans hire the weavers to work for them. In that case per
weaver gets approximately Rs. 2,000 to 2,500 a month. Producers of baluchari have
fixed market in Kolkata and other big cities like Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore, etc.
Weavers are also busy meeting this demand. There are people, who come from
nearby cities like Durgapur, Kolkata and Bardhaman to buy saris directly from the
weavers. In this case, both the parties get benefitted. In case of the Dhaniakhali and

Page 7 of 16
 Santipuri Sari, the Mahajans buy the Saris at a price of around Rs.300-500 and sell
them in between Rs. 600-900.

The co-operative societies on the other hand are responsible for employing more
weavers. They however have a fixed rate and also provide for different welfare
schemes to the weavers. Weavers sometimes participate in different fairs and
exhibitions through organizations like West Bengal State Handloom Weavers’ Co-
operative Society Limited(Tantuja), etc. The state government organizes yearly fairs
like the Tant Bastra Mela, Exhibitions, State Handloom Expo(Bangla Tanter Haat) and
National Handloom Expo. Such takes place at the district, state and national levels.
However, it is very rare that original weavers come across the customers themselves
due to well-knitted nexus of the middlemen.

6.6. Distribution – The saris produced at the Co-operative societies are solely supplied to
the government emporiums of West Bengal State Handloom Weavers’ Co-operative
Society Ltd. (Tantuja) and Manjusha. The Mahajans also sell their products here but,
recently the government emporiums have reduced buying saris from the Mahajans,
due to lack of demand in the market as more and more women are moving on to
western outfits for daily purposes. This has caused a very precarious situation and has
been a blow to the already decaying sector. The money that was used in the
production of the saris gets locked in, till the time the mahajans get buyers for their
saris.

The rich mahajans, who can afford to lock the money for a long period of time, in case
the saris do not sell immediately, remain in business full time. The mahajans who
cannot afford to lock that money; either has to reduce their production or has to take
support of some other employment source to support their business. The products are
also sometimes sold to private shops which are situated in the big cities and nearby
towns.

Value Chain Analysis of a simple Baluchari Sari (Major Processes)

Raw Material Procurement (dyed yarn)

1 kg. Maldah Silk for weft – Rs. 2,900/- (av.)
1 kg. Bangalore Silk for warp – Rs. 4,700/- (av.)
For 1 Sari,
Av. 400 gms of Maldah Silk – Rs. 1160/-
Av. 400 gms of Bangalore Silk- Rs. 1880/-
Av. = Rs. 1520

Drying
1day, no cost

Winding
Rs. 15/kg
For 400 gms – Rs.6/-

Weaving
1 Sari- Av. 8 days by 1 weaver
Wage- Rs.150/day (av.)
For 1 Sari- Rs.1200

Total Cost (Production)

= Rs. (1520+6+1200)
= Rs. 2726

Page 8 of 16
Packaging
1 Sari = Rs.10

Market Price
= Rs.2726+10+1500-2000 (inclusive of quality maintenance, design developments and other costs
procured by Co-operative Societies/Mahajans including profit- Co-operative Societies around 8-10%
and Mahajans around 15-20%)
= Rs. (4236-4736)

Value Chain Analysis of a heavy Dhaniakhali/Santipuri Sari (Major Processes)

Raw Material Procurement (dyed yarn)

80 count Cotton Yarn – Rs.600/- (av.)
100 count Cotton Yarn- Rs. 800/- (av.)
For 1 Sari,
Av. 350 gms of 80 count – Rs. 210/-
Av. 350 gms of 100 count- Rs. 280/-

Drying
1day, no cost

Winding
Rs. 15/kg
For 350 gms- Rs.5.25/-

Weaving
1 Sari- Av. 4 days by 1 weaver
Wage- Rs.90/day (av.)
For 1 Sari- Rs.360

Total Cost (Production)

80 Count- Rs. (210+5.25+360) = Rs. 575.25
100 Count- Rs. (280+5.25+360) = Rs.645.25

Packaging
1 Sari = Rs.5

Market Price
= Rs.575.25+5+400-500(inclusive of quality maintenance, design developments and other costs
procured by Co-operative Societies/Mahajans including profit- Co-operative Societies around 8-10%
and Mahajans around 15-20%)
= Rs. (980.25- 1080.25)- 80 count
= Rs. (1050.25-1150.25)- 100 count

7. UNIQUENESS OF THE SARIS THAT HELPED IN CROWNING THEM WITH

THE GI TAG

7.1 THE SANTIPORE SARI

The SANTIPORE SARI was registered under Application No. 138 with respect of Textile
goods falling under Class 24 under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications
of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

Firstly, unique quality of doubling the thread counts through reed (sana), which causes a
unique form of reed mark in the saree. The number of threads can be increased anywhere
between 2-9 threads, with a higher thread count implying a softer and glossier finish.
Secondly, Santipuri sarees maintain a 100x100 thread value; this thread value is rare in
other places. One of the several specialties of Santipuri textile is the Nilambari Saree, the

Page 9 of 16
word ‘nilambari’ literally meaning blue sky referring to the sari's deep navy-blue colour. The
‘pallu’ (the falling edge of the saree) is decorated with stripes of varying thickness.

These stripes, called ‘sajanshoi,’ have colours that are complementary to those used on the
borders. Some sarees even include silver coloured starry patterns embroidered on the
border, giving it an appearance of a night sky. The handloom weavers of Santipur still today
work without any electrical equipments and their main secret lies in the manner in which they
spread out the threads after the textile is made, which gives it the characteristic identity. It is
indeed for this reason that these sarees have an exceedingly smooth texture and lend a
touch of sophistication to the wearer, with designs like the so-called ‘Diamond’ category still
being popular among the rich and prestigious clientele.

Fig.2: Old Santipore Sari (Ash par)

Fig 3: Santipore Sari (Nilambari par)

Source: Primary Field Survey

7.2 THE BALUCHARI SARI

The BALUCHARI SARI was registered under Application No. 173 with respect of Textile
goods falling under Class 24 under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications
of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

Such a renowned Sari is the crop of weaver’s artistic mind, which is unique in character.
Fantastic in their uniqueness, they form today the prized antiques of art hunters and
precious heirlooms of many a Bengali home. A remarkable feature of Baluchari sari is the

Page 10 of 16
introduction of human figures in their contemporary costumes and modes. The various
designs depicting narrative folktales in the pallu of the sarees are as follows:

 Puranic takes or legends of Ramayana and Mahabharata are depicted on the classic
Baluchari sarees
 A woman riding a horse holding a rose in one hand with her plait flying behind her.
 Pleasure hoal, with two lovebirds on top.
 Traditional Muslim court scenes.
 Women smoking hookah.

The most distinctive feature of Baluchari sarees is their elaborate Borders and Pallu. It is
also unique for its richness of colors, texture and elegance.
Fig 4: A Glimpse of Weaver’s Artistic touch in the Sari Pallu

Source: Dept. of Micro and Small Scale Enterprises, West Bengal

7.3 THE DHANIAKHALI SARI

The DHANIAKHALI SARI was registered under Application No. 176 with respect of Textile
goods falling under Class 24 under sub-section (1) of section 13 of Geographical Indications
of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999.

This sari is unique for its special characteristics in Dobby Design, Compact Texture, and
Color Fastness, and is distinctly identified by ‘Khejurchheri’ or ‘Braid’ pattern in ‘Anchal /
Pallu’. Sometimes the denoting order is changed into 3 ends per dent followed by 2 ends per
dent. In another pattern of denting, 3 ends per dent are followed by leaving of dent black. As
a result, beautiful lining effect is produced.

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Fig. 5: Cotton Naksha Par (Extra Warp Design) Dhaniakhali Saree

Fig. 6: Plain (Matha) Border Dhaniakhali Saree

Source: Based on Primary Field Survey

8. ISSUES

From the case studies conducted of the three Saris and the general view of the Handloom
Industry of West Bengal, the major problems highlighted here needs to be mentioned.
However, the problem lies in the fact that at present, the inclination of the future generation
on this activity seems declining. Majority of the weavers in this area do not want their
offspring to take up this activity as their occupation, owing to a lot of factors playing a role in
it.

Firstly, handloom weaving is an extremely time-taking job where, weaving a Sari and all the
methods underlying it take huge time. A Sari of its making from the very beginning to end,
take almost 3-4 days in case of Santipuri or Dhaniakhali Sari and that of Baluchari takes
almost more than a week. Another major problem is that the types and loom accessories
found here have mostly become obsolete and are not much updated. A major problem
underlying this notion is the fact that here, not only the weavers, but at least one or two
members of the weaver family are engaged in the process of weaving, so the single income

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earned from selling the sari gets distributed among the family members. This results in
destroying the chances of extra employment in the household.

Power looms too mark a major threat to this industry. Duplication of products by producing
them elsewhere with inferior quality but assigning them with the original names had also
affected the reputation of the Saris. However, assigning Geographical Indications has saved
the situation to a large extent. The Government strategies for developing the situation also
need to be enacted from the very grass-root level. Thus, the importance of the traditional
heritage and the ways of surviving the slow declining trend in the concerned study area, is
what the need of the hour.

9. SUGGESTIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

After a thorough study of the whole work, we can understand or interpret the situations
prevailing at the present day in the Handloom Industry of West Bengal. Certain suggestions
and recommendations can be discussed as below:

9.1 Input Support

 Yarn – Since the end users of yarn i.e., the handloom weavers, are dispersed across
different villages, developing smaller units of yarn production (Mini Spinning Mills) to
cater to their needs will be feasible.

More yarn depots under Mill Gate Price Scheme being implemented by National
Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) should be allocated to the areas
dominating weaver’s population till opening of Mini Spinning Mills. Yarn depots should
also supply yarn in smaller quantities to meet requirements of Independent weaver’s
Greater awareness about local yarn depots and nature of assistance is needed.

Necessary steps need to be taken by State Govt. to re-start the production of three
state controlled spinning mills.

 Looms, Equipments and Accessories – Research & Development including

innovation on technological improvements in loom technology, accessories, pre and
post loom processes etc. should continue to be a priority and need support at all
stages for better productivity and quality as also to enable reduction in the drudgery of
the weavers.

 Design Development – There is a need to marry technology with the product and to
contemporize the handloom sari products through computerized design interventions
in the way of setting up of Computer Aided Design (CAD) and Computer Aided
Machineries (CAM) centers is required.

 Skill Development – Existing weavers have hereditary skills due to their engagement
in handloom profession years together. In addition to this, up-gradation of skill is
necessary to cope with the fast changing taste and preferences of the consumers for
which more effective & result oriented training program needs to be organized by Govt.
and Govt. Agencies. Apart from this, skills in production planning, costing, quality
control and marketing as well as in design development are also required.

9.2 Credit Needs

Credit is one of the largest constraints in the growth of the handloom industry. Despite all the
claims of subsidies to the handloom sector, the amount of institutional credit that is made

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available to weavers is significantly low. Credit institutions need to be designed more
effectively with the Weavers Credit Card (WCC) scheme which will provide credit in the way
that is needed, large number of small loans, to suit the dispersal nature of handlooms and to
suit market seasonality.

Interest subsidy should be considered by the Govt. to bring the rate of interest at par with
that for agriculture sector. Since availability of working capital (WC) is an important input in
the weaving process, WC loan on easy repayment terms need to be arranged to weavers so
as to have WC for a 3 months period i.e. to cover seasonal market cycles.

9.3 Market and Promotional Needs

State Handloom Development Corporations as well as Apex Organizations should be

strengthened to provide support to handloom sari sector in the way of procuring directly from
Independent weavers / PWCS / Groups / Clusters and direct marketing without the
intervention of intermediaries.

Establishment of more Haats at village and block level, Market Complexes at district and
state level is necessary. More emphasis should be given for conducting district level Melas,
Fairs and Exhibitions besides State and National level Expos by the Govt. and Govt.
Agencies to help promote sale of handloom saris at right price. Buyer Seller Meets need to
be organized in regular manner.

The coverage of Handloom Mark should be enlarged considerably so that within a definite
time frame, handloom saris are sold with the Handloom Mark. Handloom Saris need a
Generic Brand Advertising campaign. Handloom Saris require to be promoted as an
alternative clothing or lifestyle choice for the youth. Such can be enhanced by Celebrity
Advertising through different modes of media.

9.4 Others

 Common Facility Centre (CFC) – CFC is badly needed by the Independent weavers
from where weavers can readily get warpers-beam to facilitate the weaving process
rapidly without additional hands in pre- weaving activities at their level. Besides
warpers-beam, CFC can supply and provide yarns, dyes and chemicals, designs,
quality control facilities etc.

 Social Security – Coverage of weavers under welfare schemes namely MGBBY, HIS,
Weavers Pension etc. should be extended widely irrespective of class of weavers. Re-
introduction of Contributory Provident Fund (CPF) for weavers with enhanced
contribution at reasonable higher and honorable rates by the Govt.

 Master Weavers – Master Weavers should be brought under mainstream of

technological & financial support of Govt. like PWCS, groups, clusters since role of
Master Weavers for providing employment cannot be ignored.

 Managerial Subsidy – Salary of managerial staff of PWCS should be borne by the

Govt. as provided to Agriculture & Fishery sector.

 Community Development – Efforts should be made for inclusion of weaver’s home

also under other central and state sector schemes for provision of electricity, drinking
water supply, approach roads etc.

Page 14 of 16
 Handloom Reservation Act – Steps should be taken for strict enforcement of the
Handloom Reservation Provisions under the Handloom (Reservation of Articles for
Production) Act. Monitoring of the implication of GI Act for handloom products
should strictly be monitored regularly and effectively.

 Illegal Infiltration of Handlooms – Under bi-lateral agreement arrived at between two

countries (India and Bangladesh) 47 items of cotton cloths have been allowed for
import from Bangladesh free of duty. Some goods have already infiltrated in West
Bengal market. All these are inferior power-loom products and very cheaply priced.
This would eventually adversely affect handloom industry of West Bengal. The policy
therefore calls for immediate review.

10. CONCLUSION

Finally, it can be concluded by saying that the implication of GI Act for handloom products
should strictly be monitored regularly and effectively. Such cannot only help stop the
duplicating of products but can even help secure the uniqueness and quality associated with
it. GI in other words can boost up the heritage preservation as a whole. The policies
formulations, promotional activities, development schemes undertaken by the Govt and
other organizations have earnestly tried and are still trying to survive the rich Handloom
tradition of West Bengal.

It is thus anticipated that in the years to come, the condition of this industry will improve and
the Weavers and everyone associated with this industry will be able to properly get their
basic needs and throw back their disturbed sleep and have peaceful sleep at night. More
support from the Government and its sister branches as well the general awareness of the
people should be encouraged so as to enable the Weavers and all associated with the
Handloom Industry hold the pride in their shoulders which they deserve against all their hard
work.

Page 15 of 16
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