Can Ünal1,

Alime Dere Yüksel2

1 Namık Kemal University,
Textile Engineering Department,
Tekirdag, Turkey,
e-mail: cunal@nku.edu.tr
2 Ugurteks Tekstil Ürünleri Tic. ve San. A.Ş.,
Tekirdag, Turkey,
e-mail: alime.yuksel@ugurteks.com.tr
GENERAL PROBLEMS OF THE FIBRE AND TEXTILE INDUSTRIES
Cut Order Planning Optimisation
in the Apparel Industry
DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0013.5851
Abstract
Nowadays, apparel businesses have to cut down on their costs in order to ensure the continuity
of their activities and to expand them. Fabric costs cover about 50-60% of production costs.
In this study, for the minimisation of fabric costs, the cutting department in enterprises was
investigated and the cut order plans developed by mixed integer nonlinear programming.
Examples were taken from the enterprises that were implemented. A mathematical model
was then developed to be used in mixed integer nonlinear programming for a manual cut
order plan, and a program code was created in LINGO optimisation software. With the pro-
gram code developed, optimum results that cannot be manually calculated by an operator
is obtained. The amounts of fabric to be used as a result of the cut order plan were applied
to the samples taken from the enterprises, and the manual solution and model developed
were compared. As a result of the comparisons made, thanks to the model, fabric developed,
usage is reduced and fabric cost minimisation ensured.

Key words: apparel industry, LINGO, cutting department, cut order planning.

cess of separating a spread into garment lenges of handling nonlinear functions.

Introduction
The primary preassembly operations in
the clothing industry are marker making,
spreading, and cutting. Marker making is
the process of determining the most effi-
cient layout of pattern pieces for specific
styles, fabrics, and distributions of sizes.
Spreading or laying-up is the process of
superimposing predetermined lengths of
fabric on a spreading table for the cutting
process. Cutting is the pre-assembly pro-
pieces that are the precise size and shape
of the pattern pieces on the marker. Min-
imising fabric loss during preassembly
operations thus contributes to the mini-
misation of the total production costs in
garment manufacturing [1]. Material cost
is a major component of manufacturing
costs in the apparel industry. Of primary
importance in managing material cost is
the establishment of control over marker
utilisation and the cut order plan (COP).
The cut order plan takes the targets es-
tablished by the cutting schedule and
translates them into a plan of loading of
successive batches to the cutting room,
so that cutting proceeds in a most effi-
cient and cost-effective manner. The cut-
ting schedule gives the input necessary to
achieve the sewing schedule.
Waste in markers cause serious financial
losses by reducing the profitability of the
line. It is common knowledge that in-
creasing the number of garments along
with the number of sizes in a marker
can give higher marker utilisation [2].
However, increasing the number of sizes
makes it difficult to achieve an optimum
cut order plan, especially for manual cal-
culations.
As many optimal decision problems in
scientific, engineering, and public sector
applications involve both discrete de-
cisions and nonlinear system dynamics
that affect the quality of the final design
or plan, the problem addressed in this
study leads us to mixed-integer nonlinear
programming (MINLP), which combines
the combinatorial difficulty of optimising
with discrete variable sets with the chal-
The LINGO (Language for Interactive
General Optimisation) computer pro-
gram is used to solve problems expressed
by mathematical formulas. As a result of
the research, the amount of fabric used
in the current situation and that of fabric
removed as a result of the optimisation
were compared for different products and
order samples.
As this problem has not been extensively
investigated, studies in the related litera-
ture on the cutting process and cut order
plan have been examined and some of
them have been included here;
Paşayev investigated the effects of pro-
duction planning on fabric costs. It was
proven that in garment production during
the production line calculation process,
the possibility of ground preparation for
reducing fabric losses is available, and
the realisation of determining the optimal
fabric width in terms of fabric losses can
reduce them significantly [3].
Rose and Shier tried to establish an ef-
ficient schedule for cutting the garments
required from cloth, with all demands
met exactly. They introduced a two-stage
approach; an exact enumerative approach
that produces all optimal cutting sched-
ules. Two different implementations
were considered for enumeration based
on the SD Tree and MF Tree, respec-
tively. While the SD Tree was ultimately
selected as superior for carrying out the
two-stage approach, the MF Tree pro-
vides a valuable heuristic approach for
generating one or more feasible cutting
schedules [4].

8 Ünal C, Yüksel AD. Cut Order Planning Optimisation in the Apparel Industry.
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2020; 28, 1(139): 8-13. DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0013.5851
Degraeve and Vandebroek, propose
a mixed integer programming model
that determines an optimal set of cutting
patterns, each giving a combination of
articles to be cut in one operation, and Take order
corresponding stack heights. Also, they Fabric spreading
developed a special enumerative search
procedure with node pruning criteria us-
ing bounds and dominance rules to obtain
results requiring less computing time [5]. Manual or
Purchase fabric
For this reason, small order samples have Computerized
Manual Cutting Computerized
been handled. However, the speed of to-
day’s computers and the use of LINGO’s
sets allowed this problem to be overcome
in this study. Marker plan
Cut Order Planning Platic film spreading
Plastic
spreading over the
over the fabric
Wong and Leung proposed a genetic fabric
optimised decision-making model using
adaptive evolutionary strategies to as-
sist the production management of the
apparel industry in the decision-making Bring the fabric Manual Cutting
Computerized
process of COP in which a new encoding roll Cutting
method with a shortened binary string
was devised. Four sets of real production
data were collected to validate the the de-
cision support method proposed. The ex-
perimental results demonstrate that the Pattern preparation Sorting & Bundling
method proposed can reduce both the
material costs and the production of addi-
tional garments while satisfying the time
constraints set by the downstream sewing
department [6]. Marker plan
Sewing Process
preparation
Ng et al. explained how the problem of
roll planning could be formulated for
(Genetic Algorithms) GA to solve. They
tried to determine an optimal fabric roll Figure 1. Process flowFigure 1. Process
of cutting flow of cutting department
department.
sequence for a cutting lay to minimise
the spreading loss. The result of the
20 orders with one to six sizes per order.
rowing the scope of the existing COP
study showed that an optimal roll plan
Validated with representative industry problem with different solution propos-
could be worked out using the GA ap-
proach [1].
Nonlinear Programming
problems, the approach is shown to be als. The basic approach of this study was
effective and versatile [8]. to carry out research that can be easily
Hui and Leaf developed a  In one general form, the nonlinear programmingimplemented
theoretical is to find in 𝑥𝑥 the
= (𝑥𝑥apparel industry and
1 , 𝑥𝑥2 , … , 𝑥𝑥𝑛𝑛 ) so as to
model for the calculation of fabric loss Nascimento et al. studied the problem provide the desired solution by making
as a result of splice loss and excessive of determining the lowest cost spread- small changes to a single item of soft-
maximise 𝑓𝑓(𝑥𝑥), ing and cutting schedule for garments of ware. Although the code, written using
end loss during spreading. Computation
results of the the effect of changing the different styles, colours and sizes. They the lingo program, is not shared in this
Subject
roll length and that of changing the num- to proposed the use of an innovative state- study, due to commercial privacy rea-
ber of rolls are calculated. It is concluded space approach using heuristic rules to sons, the results obtained from the differ-
that as the rolls of fabric get 𝑔𝑔longer, the solve the problem. It was modelled as ent products and the mathematical model
for 𝑖𝑖 =search
𝑖𝑖 𝑥𝑥 ≤ 𝑏𝑏𝑖𝑖 , a least-cost 1,2, … , 𝑚𝑚,
in a graph where each generated are explained in detail.
splice loss will be smaller, though the
trend is not a steady one [7]. node represents a different spreading and
and 𝑥𝑥 ≥ 0, cutting schedule. Several solution algo- Material and method
Jacobs-Blecha et al. propose a mathe- rithms and heuristics were proposed and
matical model for cut orderWhere 𝑓𝑓(𝑥𝑥)tested,
planning. and 𝑔𝑔and an illustrative application in Cutting department
𝑖𝑖 𝑥𝑥 are given functions of the n decision variables.
Its objective is to minimise the total cut- a Brazilian apparel company was pre- Since the most important department
ting cost, which includes fabric, spread- sented for four different styles [9]. effecting fabric productivity is the cut-
ing, cutting, and marker makingcosts. ting department, any improvement work
The model is solved using two construc- Although some of the assumptions made to be done in this department will indi-
tive (savings and cherry picking) and one by the studies above are far from actu- rectly effect the overall business. With
local search algorithm. The algorithms, al practice examples, they have reached a view to COP optimisation, data were
were tested on real-life data consisting of various solutions by expanding or nar- collected from two different enterprises

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2020, Vol. 28, 1(139) 9

 There are many different types of nonlinear programming problems, depending on the
There are many different types of nonlinear programming problems, depending on the
characteristics of the 𝑓𝑓(𝑥𝑥) and 𝑔𝑔𝑖𝑖 𝑥𝑥 functions. Different algorithms are used for different
characteristics of the 𝑓𝑓(𝑥𝑥) and 𝑔𝑔𝑖𝑖 𝑥𝑥 functions. Different algorithms are used for different
Table 1. Manual solution for shirt production. types. For certain kinds where the functions
types. For certain kinds where the functions have simple forms, problems can be solved
els, have
a full simple
featuredforms,
environment for build-
problems can be solved
ing and editing problems, and a set of fast
Sizes T39 T41 T43relatively
efficiently. For some T45 other types, solving even small problems is a real challenge
plan types, built-in
relatively efficiently. No. of plies For some Marker
length, cm
other solvingsolvers. even small LINGO problems formulates is a real yourchallenge
Total order 69 96 90 45 linear, nonlinear and integer problems
[10].
1. Spreading 1 2 2 [10]. 1 45 792.19 quickly in a highly readable form. There
2. Spreading 3 2 0 0
Mixed integer nonlinear programming (MINLP) 8 619 is no needrefers to specify to optimisation or load a separate problems with
No. of pieces 69 106 90Mixed45 integer nonlinear Total length, programming
cm solver because
(MINLP) refers LINGO to optimisation reads the formu- problems with
ECR, % 0 10.41 0 continuous 0 and discrete variables and nonlinear functions in the objective function
40600.55 lation and automatically selects the ap-and/or the
continuous and discrete variables and nonlinear propriate functions one. in the objective function and/or the
Table 2. LINGO solution for shirt production. constraints. Note: *Average MINLPs length of arise a size in calculated
applications in a wide range of fields, including chemical
as 127.28 cm. constraints. MINLPs arise in applications For in a developing wide range models of fields,interactively, including chemical
engineering, finance, and manufacturing. The general form of MINLP is modelling LINGO provides a  complete
Sizes T39 T41 T43engineering, T45 finance, and manufacturing. Marker plan
Theenvironment
general formtoof build, MINLP solve, is and analyse
No. of plies
Total order 69 96 90min 𝑓𝑓 45 𝑥𝑥, 𝑦𝑦 length(cm) models. For building turn-key solutions,
1. Spreading 2 2 3
min 𝑓𝑓 0𝑥𝑥, 𝑦𝑦 30 891.01* LINGO comes with callable DLL and
2. Spreading 1 4 0 s.t. 𝑐𝑐𝑖𝑖 𝑥𝑥, 5 𝑦𝑦 = 0 9 ∀𝑖𝑖 ∈ 𝐸𝐸 1272.8* OLE interfaces, which can be called
s.t. 𝑐𝑐𝑖𝑖 𝑥𝑥, 𝑦𝑦 = 0 ∀𝑖𝑖 ∈ 𝐸𝐸 from user written applications. LINGO
No. of pieces 69 96 90 45 Total length, cm
s.t. 𝑐𝑐 𝑥𝑥, 𝑦𝑦 = 0 ∀𝑖𝑖 ∈ I can also be called directly from an Excel
ECR, % 0 0 0 s.t. 𝑐𝑐𝑖𝑖 𝑥𝑥, 0 𝑦𝑦 = 0 38186.33
∀𝑖𝑖 ∈ I
𝑖𝑖 macro or database application [12].
𝑥𝑥 ∈ X
producing different garments. The first 𝑥𝑥x ∈ X Mathematical expression
company employs 450 employees and 𝑦𝑦y ∈ Y integer integer of the problem
produces shirts, coats and trousers, while 𝑦𝑦 ∈ Y integer
Explanations of the variables used in the
the second company has 250 employees Where, Where, each c𝑐𝑐i𝑖𝑖(x,𝑥𝑥,y)𝑦𝑦 isisa mapping a mapping from Rn 𝑅𝑅 𝑛𝑛𝑛𝑛 COP
to 𝑅𝑅, optimisation
and 𝐸𝐸 and 𝐼𝐼 are index
from model aresets given for equality be- and
and produces sweatshirts. Before starting Where, to R, andeach E and 𝑐𝑐𝑖𝑖 I are
𝑥𝑥, 𝑦𝑦 index is a mapping sets for equal- from 𝑅𝑅 to 𝑅𝑅, and 𝐸𝐸 and 𝐼𝐼 are index sets for equality and
low:
the optimisation study, the process flow inequality ity and inequality constraints, constraints, respectively. respective- Typically, functions 𝑓𝑓 and have some smoothness
Ki: number of plies of i𝑐𝑐th𝑖𝑖 spreading,
of the cutting department was first estab- inequality ly. Typically, constraints,
functions f respectively. and ci have some Typically, functions 𝑓𝑓 and 𝑐𝑐𝑖𝑖 have some smoothness
Kmax: maximum number of plies that can
lished (Figure 1). properties,
smoothnessi.e., properties,once or i.e., twice once continuously
or twice differentiable.
properties, i.e.,differentiable.
once or twice continuously differentiable. be cut,
continuously Ti: length of ith spreading,
Nonlinear programming Software developed for MINLP has generallyA followed two approaches:
Software developed for MINLP has generally ijfollowed : COP number two approaches: of jth size belonging to
In one general form, the nonlinear pro- Software developed for MINLP has gen- ith spreading,
gramming is to find x = (x1, x2, ..., xn) so Outer erally followed Approximation/Generalised two approaches: Bender's Decomposition: These th size, algorithms alternate
Outer Approximation/Generalised Bender's Sj: order
Decomposition: quantity of jThese algorithms alternate
as to maximise f(x), n Outer Approximation/Generalised Ben-
P: excess cutting : order rate quantity (ECR) (%) thto be
Subject to betweender’s solving
Decomposition: a mixed-integer
These algorithms LP master problem 𝑆𝑆 𝑆𝑆:𝑗𝑗 order
𝑗𝑗 and quantity nonlinear ofofjthj size, size,
programming
𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗between
: order quantity solving of j th
a mixed-integer
size, LP allowed,problem
master P: excess and nonlinear
cutting rate (ECR)programming (%)totobebeallo al
alternate between solving a mixed-in-
gi (x) ≤ bi, for i = 1, 2, ..., m P:subproblems.
excess cutting rate (ECR) (%) to be allowed, Bj: estimated 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗 :P: order
𝐵𝐵
excess
length : quantity
estimated of
cutting
j th size of rate
length jthinsize, (ECR)
marker
of thj th
(%)
size in marker
teger LP master problem thand nonlinear 𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗 :𝑗𝑗 estimated length of j size in marker p
𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗subproblems.
: estimated 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗 : order length quantity of jthofsize j size, in marker plan,plan, P: excess M:table table cutting length, rate (ECR) (%) to be allowe
and x ≥ 0, programming subproblems. : order M: quantity length,
of j th
size,
M:n table P:length, excess cuttingBranch-and-bound rate (ECR) (%) to be allowed, 𝑗𝑗 M: 𝑆𝑆table
𝑗𝑗 length,
𝐵𝐵 : estimated length of jth size in marker pla
Branch-and-Bound:
Where f(x) and gi (x) are given functions 𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗 : estimated length of jthLPsize P: excess M: table cutting length, rate (ECR) (%) to be allowed,
methods for mixed-integer caninbemarker plan, 𝑆𝑆 : order quantity ofth jth size,
of the n decision variables. An 𝐵𝐵 : estimated
optimisation An length
model
optimisation of ofthe j size problem
model in marker plan, is
isthe problem
ofof
M: table 𝑗𝑗
extended𝑆𝑆 𝑗𝑗 : order to length,MINLP with
quantity th
of j a number size, of 𝑗𝑗
An optimisation model the problem is a
An optimisation as follows;
M: table P: excess
length, cutting rate (ECR) (%) to be allowe
tricks P: excess addedmodel to improve
cutting ofrate the(ECR) problem
their perfor- (%)is to asbefollows;
allowed,𝐵𝐵An th th
on theplan, 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗: :𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛 estimated
optimisation
order
𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛 quantity 𝑛𝑛 𝑖𝑖=1length 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 model ∗of 𝑇𝑇𝑖𝑖of j jof size, size
the problem in markeris plan as f
𝑛𝑛
There
There arearemany many different
different types
typesofofnonlin-
nonlinear programming problems, depending
There are many different types of nonlinear
mance 𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗 : estimated
programming
[12]. LINGO
problems, length uses ofdependingjth size
the Branch- in marker
on the M: table length, 𝑖𝑖=1 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 ∗ 𝑇𝑇𝑖𝑖    (1)
ear programming problems, depending 𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛 and-bound 𝑛𝑛
An optimisation
𝑖𝑖 ∗ 𝑇𝑇𝑖𝑖method
𝐾𝐾table model of the problem is as follows; P: excess cutting rate (ECR) (1) (%) to be allow
M:
𝑖𝑖=1
𝑆𝑆 𝑗𝑗 : order quantityin
length, of order
jth size,to solve Subject An𝑆𝑆optimisation to𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛 𝑛𝑛
model 𝑇𝑇𝑖𝑖 jof th the of problemjth size inismarker as follow
on the characteristics
characteristics of the 𝑓𝑓(𝑥𝑥) andf(x)𝑔𝑔𝑖𝑖and
of the 𝑥𝑥 gfunctions.
i (x) Different algorithms are used for different : 𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗 Subject
order : Subject
estimated 𝑖𝑖=1 𝐾𝐾
quantity 𝑖𝑖to∗ of length size, pla
models P: excess with integer rate
cutting restrictions.
(ECR) (%) different
to be allowed, M: table 𝑗𝑗 to
characteristics
functions. Different of the 𝑓𝑓(𝑥𝑥) and 𝑔𝑔𝑖𝑖are
algorithms functions.
𝑥𝑥 used Different
Subject𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛 to 𝑛𝑛algorithms are used for P: excess 𝐾𝐾 −
𝑖𝑖 cutting length,
𝐾𝐾 rate ≤ 0     (2) (1)allowed, 7
𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗 : estimated 𝑖𝑖=1 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 ∗ 𝑇𝑇𝑖𝑖
length of jth size in marker𝑆𝑆 plan, 𝑛𝑛 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 − 𝐾𝐾𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥≤ 0 (ECR) (%) to be
for different
types. For certain types.kinds
For certain
wherekinds
the where
functions have
− 𝐾𝐾𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖Whether simple ≤ 0not forms, problems can be solved 𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛
𝑗𝑗 : order 𝐵𝐵 :AnSubject quantity
estimated
𝑖𝑖=1 optimisation
(𝑖𝑖𝐾𝐾𝑚𝑚
𝑚𝑚 𝑖𝑖= ∗to1, 𝑇𝑇𝑛𝑛of𝑖𝑖 𝑛𝑛 length
2, j𝐾𝐾th model
… 𝐾𝐾size,
𝑛𝑛) ∗𝐴𝐴of 𝐴𝐴j𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗th≥of ≥size the
𝑆𝑆
(2) in problem
marker is7as fo
plan,
An
M: or
optimisation
table length,a problem model th is of solved
the by
problem is as follows;
𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗 =1 𝑖𝑖=1 𝑖𝑖 ∗ 𝑖𝑖
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑆𝑆 𝑗𝑗
𝑗𝑗
types. For certain kinds where the functions have 𝑆𝑆 simple
𝑗𝑗 : 𝐾𝐾 order forms,
quantity≥ 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗 of j to problems size, can be solved P:1, excess 𝐾𝐾 −
𝑖𝑖cutting
𝑗𝑗 =1
𝐾𝐾 1,rate
𝑖𝑖=1 ≤
2,𝑛𝑛 …(ECR) 0
∗ 𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗(%) to be allowed,
the functions have simple forms, prob- 𝑗𝑗a  𝑚𝑚 𝑛𝑛
Subject ∗ 𝐴𝐴to correctly (𝑖𝑖 = 2,
M:…table 𝑛𝑛; 𝑗𝑗 =
𝑚𝑚 𝑚𝑚𝑗𝑗length,
𝑚𝑚𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 𝑚𝑚)
𝐾𝐾 (3) 𝑃𝑃
≤𝑗𝑗≤ 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗𝑆𝑆marker
𝑗𝑗 (1++ 100
method,
=1 𝑖𝑖=1 𝑖𝑖 it is𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 important 𝑛𝑛 𝑛𝑛 𝑖𝑖=1 𝑃𝑃 )
lems can
relatively be solvedFor
efficiently. relatively efficiently.
some other types, solving
𝑚𝑚 𝑛𝑛P:
𝐾𝐾even excess
− 𝐾𝐾 small
𝑛𝑛 cutting
≤ problems
0 rate (ECR)
𝑃𝑃is a (%)
real to be
challenge 𝐵𝐵 Subject
allowed,: estimated 𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛
An to
𝑗𝑗 =1 optimisation
𝑗𝑗 =1
𝑛𝑛=1
length
𝑖𝑖=1
𝑖𝑖=1 𝐾𝐾𝐾𝐾(𝑖𝑖
𝑖𝑖=1 𝑖𝑖 𝑖𝑖 ∗𝐾𝐾∗=𝑇𝑇
of 𝑖𝑖𝐴𝐴 ∗j𝑖𝑖1,
𝑖𝑖 th𝐴𝐴≥
model
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 size
2,𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 … 𝑆𝑆   (3)
inof
𝑛𝑛) (1 the problem
100 (2)) is as (
plan,
relatively efficiently. For some other types, 𝑗𝑗identify
solving =1 𝑖𝑖=1
𝑖𝑖 the
𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛
even 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 ∗small current
𝑛𝑛𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗𝐾𝐾≤
𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
𝑖𝑖=1 ∗𝑆𝑆problem.
𝑖𝑖problems 𝑗𝑗𝑇𝑇(1
𝑖𝑖 + 100 is To be able
)tha real (𝑖𝑖 = 𝐾𝐾
challenge
𝑗𝑗 1, 2, − … 𝐾𝐾 𝑛𝑛; 𝑗𝑗𝑛𝑛= ≤
𝑛𝑛 1,
0 𝑚𝑚2,
𝑚𝑚 … 𝐴𝐴 𝑚𝑚) 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗∗ ∗𝐵𝐵𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗≤≤𝑀𝑀𝑀𝑀 (4) 𝑃𝑃 (1)
For some other types, solving even small 𝑛𝑛to express 𝐵𝐵 𝑚𝑚 :
𝑚𝑚 𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗 =1 the
estimated length
𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 ∗ 𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗correctly, of
≥ 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗 j size in marker plan,
M: table 𝑖𝑖 (𝑖𝑖 = 𝑛𝑛length, 𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥𝑚𝑚
1, 2,𝑖𝑖=1
𝑖𝑖=1
…𝑖𝑖=1𝑛𝑛
𝑛𝑛;𝑗𝑗 =1 𝑗𝑗 =1 𝐴𝐴
𝐾𝐾𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖 =∗ 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗𝐴𝐴 1,𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗2,≤… 𝑗𝑗 𝑆𝑆𝑚𝑚) (1 + ) (3) (
An optimisation𝑖𝑖=1 problem
𝑗𝑗 ≤ 𝑀𝑀 model th of the 𝑃𝑃
a suita-
problem (𝑖𝑖 is =as 𝑗𝑗 =1
>𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗 (5) 100
𝐴𝐴table
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 ∗𝑛𝑛 𝐵𝐵 1,𝑚𝑚𝑗𝑗follows;
2, … 𝑛𝑛; 𝑗𝑗𝐾𝐾= 𝑇𝑇𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖for𝑖𝑖≤𝑖𝑖of
𝑛𝑛1,𝐴𝐴 𝐾𝐾2, …
[10].
problems is a real challenge [10]. 𝑖𝑖=1 𝑗𝑗𝑆𝑆 M:
=1𝑚𝑚 : order length,
quantity of j size, An
=1 Subject
𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛 𝑛𝑛𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖𝐾𝐾−
optimisation
𝑖𝑖=1 𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖 − 𝑚𝑚∗to
𝐾𝐾 𝐾𝐾≥
≥
𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖
≥ 0∗∗𝑚𝑚)
model
0for
𝑆𝑆 > the problem is (𝑖𝑖 follo
as =1
=00 (4) (𝑖𝑖 = 1
Subject to𝑖𝑖 > 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 𝑗𝑗∗ 𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 ≤ 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗 (1 + 100 ) (𝑖𝑖 = 1,𝑚𝑚2, (𝑖𝑖 … = 1,−𝑗𝑗2, 𝑛𝑛…
𝑖𝑖=1 𝐴𝐴 𝑀𝑀 (
𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖ble model 0isfor created. 1,𝑛𝑛; 𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗… = 1, 𝑗𝑗2, ∗𝐵𝐵… 𝐵𝐵+𝑗𝑗−𝑚𝑚)
𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗
[10]. − 𝐾𝐾 𝑗𝑗 P:≥𝑗𝑗 =1 𝑖𝑖=1 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛𝑛𝑛; 𝑖𝑖=1 𝐾𝐾=
𝑛𝑛
𝐾𝐾
𝑗𝑗 =1
∗ 𝐴𝐴𝑚𝑚2, ≤ 𝑚𝑚
≤ 0𝐴𝐴
𝐴𝐴 𝑚𝑚) 𝑆𝑆 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗∗(1 −𝑃𝑃𝑇𝑇𝑇𝑇(6) )𝑖𝑖=  (4)
𝐾𝐾 excess
− 𝐾𝐾 cutting
≤ 0 rate (ECR) (%) to be allowed, 𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
𝑖𝑖=1
𝑖𝑖 𝑗𝑗 =1
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 (𝑖𝑖 =
for𝐴𝐴1,𝑖𝑖 2, 1, 2, … 𝑛𝑛) (2)
𝑛𝑛 𝑚𝑚𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛𝑛𝑛
𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖=1 𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 𝑚𝑚
𝑛𝑛
𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗𝐾𝐾 𝐴𝐴− ∗𝑇𝑇𝐵𝐵
𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 ∗𝑇𝑇 𝑗𝑗 ≤ 0 𝑀𝑀 jth problems
𝑗𝑗 =1
(𝑖𝑖 … =𝐾𝐾 𝑚𝑚
Subject𝑖𝑖1,−
𝑖𝑖=1
2,𝑖𝑖=1𝐾𝐾… 𝑛𝑛 ≥ 𝑛𝑛; 𝑗𝑗
𝐾𝐾
=1 0𝑗𝑗 ∗= 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗
, 𝐵𝐵,≥
>… 𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗 𝑚𝑚) 100
, 𝐾𝐾𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
𝑖𝑖
(5)
(1) ((
∗𝑖𝑖to (7)
𝑗𝑗, 1,
Mixed
Mixedinteger integernonlinear
nonlinearprogramming
programming(MINLP) 𝑚𝑚𝐴𝐴estimated
refers 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 ∗ to
𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1
𝑛𝑛=1 optimisation𝑖𝑖 𝑖𝑖= (𝑖𝑖
with =
An 1,𝑛𝑛optimisation
2,
𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛 𝑗𝑗𝑛𝑛; 𝐴𝐴𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1
𝐴𝐴𝐴𝐴=
𝑛𝑛
𝐾𝐾𝐾𝐾 2,
𝑖𝑖model∗, 𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗𝑇𝑇,…
𝑖𝑖𝑇𝑇 , 𝑆𝑆𝑚𝑚) of the problem , 𝑃𝑃,𝐵𝐵,𝐵𝐵,𝑀𝑀 is𝑀𝑀as
≥≥follows;
00(𝑖𝑖 = 1(
𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗:=1 ∗length ≥𝑗𝑗of size in marker plan,
𝑖𝑖=1 𝑗𝑗𝐵𝐵 𝑚𝑚 =1 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 ,𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝐾𝐾 , 𝑖𝑖𝑇𝑇
=1 𝐵𝐵 𝑖𝑖𝑆𝑆
≤𝑖𝑖 𝑗𝑗∗,𝑗𝑗1,
𝐵𝐵
𝑀𝑀 𝑗𝑗𝐾𝐾 , 𝑃𝑃,
Mixed integer nonlinear programming (MINLP) LINGO 𝐾𝐾 refers −(Language
𝐾𝐾 𝑖𝑖=1to
≥ 𝐾𝐾
0 optimisation
𝑖𝑖 for 𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗>Interactive
for 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗 problems with (𝑖𝑖
𝑖𝑖=1
(𝑖𝑖 =𝑗𝑗𝑚𝑚1,
= 1,
𝑛𝑛
=1 2,
2, …
…
𝑚𝑚 𝑛𝑛;
𝑛𝑛; 𝐴𝐴 𝑗𝑗 =
= 1, 𝐵𝐵 𝑗𝑗2,−
2, …
… 𝑇𝑇 𝑚𝑚)
𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
𝑚𝑚) = 0 𝑃𝑃 (3)
(6)
(MINLP) refers to optimisation problems 𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗General , 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 , 𝑇𝑇An optimisation
, 𝑆𝑆table
𝑗𝑗 , 𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑛𝑛, 𝐾𝐾 𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 , 𝑃𝑃,model 𝐵𝐵, 𝑀𝑀 ≥ of 0the 𝑃𝑃problem is as follows; 𝐾𝐾𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖=1− 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖=1
𝑖𝑖=1 𝑛𝑛𝑗𝑗𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖≤
=1 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 0 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 ≤ 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗 (1 (8)
𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖
M: 𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑚𝑚
𝑛𝑛 Optimisation)
Subject 𝑚𝑚to length,
∗∗𝐴𝐴𝐵𝐵𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗 software 𝐾𝐾 − = 𝐾𝐾
𝑛𝑛𝐴𝐴 ≥, 2, 𝐾𝐾0 ,for 𝑇𝑇 𝑖𝑖 >∗𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗𝐴𝐴1, + 100 )
0 (𝑖𝑖 = 1
(4)
(
the𝐾𝐾 ≤ 𝑇𝑇𝑆𝑆function
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 (1 + 100and/or
) 𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛(𝑖𝑖 𝑛𝑛1, … 𝑖𝑖 , 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗 ,𝑖𝑖= 𝑗𝑗 ,𝐴𝐴𝐾𝐾 … ,𝑆𝑆𝑚𝑚) 𝑃𝑃, 𝐵𝐵, 𝑀𝑀 ≥ (7)
𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑚𝑚 𝑛𝑛𝑛𝑛; 2,
continuous
with continuous and discrete
and variables
discrete and nonlinear functions
variables =1 in
𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1 𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1 𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗objective − =0 the Subject 𝑗𝑗𝐾𝐾 𝑖𝑖 to ∗𝑖𝑖 𝑚𝑚 𝑇𝑇 𝑖𝑖 𝐴𝐴𝐾𝐾 ∗ 𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥≥
continuous and discrete variables and nonlinearLINGO functions
=1
in𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 the 𝑖𝑖=1 𝑚𝑚 =1
𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗 =1
𝑖𝑖=1
∗objective𝐵𝐵(𝑖𝑖 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 − ∗ 𝑇𝑇 𝐵𝐵1, 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗
= ≤ 0𝑀𝑀
𝑗𝑗  (5)𝑃𝑃 (2) (𝑖𝑖 = 1(
𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛 − 𝐾𝐾𝐾𝐾
, is 𝑛𝑛a 
𝐴𝐴𝑗𝑗≤ ,objective
comprehensive ∗0∗𝑗𝑗𝑇𝑇,𝐵𝐵 ,function tool and/or
0 the 𝑖𝑖=1
de- 𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖=∗=1, 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 2, 2,… …𝑚𝑚) 𝑛𝑛)
𝑚𝑚 𝑖𝑖=1
and nonlinear functions in the objective 𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛
𝐴𝐴 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖 ,𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1
𝑛𝑛𝑇𝑇 𝑖𝑖 , 𝑆𝑆𝐾𝐾 𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗𝐵𝐵 ≤ 𝑀𝑀
𝑖𝑖𝐾𝐾𝑗𝑗𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 𝑃𝑃, 𝐵𝐵, 𝑀𝑀 ≥ (𝑖𝑖
𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 = −𝑗𝑗 1, 𝑚𝑚 2,
=1
𝐾𝐾 The The …objective
𝑛𝑛≤ 𝑛𝑛; 0 𝐾𝐾 𝐴𝐴 function
function ≤ 𝑆𝑆𝑚𝑚) (1of+ ofthe (1)
the)problem
problemwh
(5)
(8) w
signed
𝑖𝑖=1
𝑚𝑚
to make
=1
𝐾𝐾 ∗
building𝐴𝐴 ≥ 𝑆𝑆 and solving 𝐴𝐴 (𝑖𝑖
, 𝐾𝐾 =𝐾𝐾 , 𝑖𝑖 𝑇𝑇1,−
𝑗𝑗 =1
, 2, 𝐾𝐾
𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
𝑆𝑆 …
,
𝑗𝑗 𝐵𝐵≥
𝑖𝑖=1 𝑛𝑛; , 0𝐾𝐾 𝑗𝑗 for= 𝑖𝑖
1,, >2,
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗
𝑃𝑃, 𝑗𝑗
…
𝐵𝐵, 𝑀𝑀 𝑗𝑗 ≥ 0 100 (3) (
constraints. MINLPs arise in applications
function and/or the constraints. MINLPs The objective in a wide An 𝑗𝑗 =1 range
𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 −optimisation 𝐾𝐾𝑗𝑗function
𝑖𝑖=1 of
≥ 0 for of 𝑖𝑖 fields, 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗
𝑖𝑖model>the including
𝑗𝑗 problem
𝑗𝑗
of the 𝑃𝑃problem chemical
which is Subject
minimises 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗(𝑖𝑖 𝑗𝑗=
as follows;
𝑚𝑚 𝑖𝑖 to
=1𝑛𝑛1, 𝑛𝑛the
𝑖𝑖 𝑛𝑛
2, total
𝑗𝑗 …𝐾𝐾
𝑚𝑚 𝑚𝑚𝑛𝑛;𝑗𝑗 ∗𝐴𝐴 𝑗𝑗usage
𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
𝐴𝐴=𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗∗1, ≥ of
2, 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗≤… fabric𝑚𝑚) is written (6) in (𝑖𝑖 =
constraints. MINLPs arise in applications inLinear, a wide range of fields, including chemical 𝑖𝑖=1 𝑖𝑖 𝐴𝐴 ∗ 𝐵𝐵 𝐵𝐵 − 𝑇𝑇 𝑀𝑀 = 0
arise in applications in a wide range of SubjectNonlinear
𝑚𝑚
𝑗𝑗𝑛𝑛 =1 𝑚𝑚
𝑛𝑛 to 𝐾𝐾(convex ∗ 𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 − ≤& nonconvex/
𝑇𝑇𝑆𝑆𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 (1 + 100 ) 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 −(𝑖𝑖 = The
=𝐾𝐾1,
(𝑖𝑖𝐾𝐾𝑚𝑚𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
𝑖𝑖=1≤ 𝑖𝑖=1
1,formula2, objective
formula 𝑗𝑗… =1 𝑗𝑗 1.
…𝐾𝐾𝑛𝑛;
0 𝑗𝑗 =1
𝑗𝑗0𝐴𝐴=
1.
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 function
InIn 1, 𝑗𝑗
formulaformula
𝑗𝑗
2, … 𝑚𝑚)
𝑖𝑖 of
2,2,
the problem
𝑃𝑃ititisisstatedstated
(4) that
(7) thatth(t
which
=1 𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 ∗ 𝐵𝐵 =0 2, 𝑛𝑛; = 1, 2, … 𝑚𝑚)
𝑛𝑛
𝑖𝑖=1 𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1 𝑗𝑗
𝐴𝐴 , −
𝐾𝐾 𝐾𝐾
, 𝑇𝑇 ,≥ 𝑆𝑆 ∗ , 𝐵𝐵 for , ≤
𝐾𝐾 𝑖𝑖 >𝑆𝑆 (1𝑗𝑗
, 𝑃𝑃, +
   (6) 𝐵𝐵, 𝑀𝑀 ) ≥ 0 (𝑖𝑖 =
engineering,
fields, finance,chemical
including and manufacturing.
engineering, Global),
Theformula
general𝑀𝑀𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛 𝐾𝐾1.
The form
𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛 − Quadratic,
In of
objective𝑛𝑛 MINLP
𝐾𝐾formula
𝑚𝑚 ≤∗0∗function2,Quadratically
it is≤
is 𝑀𝑀stated of𝐵𝐵, the Con-
that the
problem condition
which 𝑚𝑚 𝑗𝑗
of =1
𝑛𝑛
minimises𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗the
𝑖𝑖 𝑖𝑖=1
𝐾𝐾𝑚𝑚2,𝑖𝑖 number
𝑖𝑖∗ 𝐴𝐴 𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖
𝑖𝑖 the
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗≥
𝑗𝑗(𝑖𝑖 of 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗
𝑆𝑆= 𝑗𝑗1,1,2,2,
𝑗𝑗 plies
total 𝑗𝑗
usage
𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 … 𝑛𝑛)of
belonging 100fabric (2)
to(5)each
is (𝑖𝑖written
= 1, 2
engineering, finance, and manufacturing. The general 𝐴𝐴 form
𝑖𝑖=1 , 𝐾𝐾 ,𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
𝑖𝑖 of 𝑇𝑇 ,
𝑛𝑛 𝑖𝑖 MINLP
𝑗𝑗 =1
𝑖𝑖=1 𝐴𝐴
𝐾𝐾
𝑆𝑆 ,
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗
𝑖𝑖 𝐵𝐵 𝑇𝑇, 𝐵𝐵
𝐾𝐾
𝑖𝑖 𝑗𝑗 , 𝑃𝑃,
is≥ 𝑆𝑆 Semi-Defi- 𝑀𝑀 ≥ 0 𝑗𝑗 =1 (𝑖𝑖 𝑛𝑛=𝑖𝑖=1 1,𝑛𝑛 … 𝑚𝑚 𝑛𝑛; = … 𝑚𝑚) (1)
(8)
𝑛𝑛formula 1. In
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗 Cone, 𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 The (𝑖𝑖 objective =1…𝐴𝐴 function
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝐴𝐴 ∗𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗=𝐵𝐵formula
∗1, ≤𝐵𝐵 of
𝑗𝑗𝑀𝑀 −… the 2,𝑖𝑖 problem
𝑇𝑇𝑃𝑃𝑚𝑚) = it is 0 statedthe which that the min
(𝑖𝑖 =cn
finance, and manufacturing. The general strained,
𝑚𝑚 Second Order spreading is𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗is smaller than maximum
(3)
≥ 𝐾𝐾 ∗ 𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗> = 1,
𝑖𝑖=1 𝑖𝑖=1 𝑗𝑗2, 𝑗𝑗 =1 𝑛𝑛; 2,
𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 =1 − 𝐾𝐾𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1 0𝑖𝑖 for 𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗 𝑚𝑚
𝑗𝑗 =1(𝑖𝑖 = 1, spreading
𝐾𝐾2, 𝑖𝑖 ∗… 𝐴𝐴𝑛𝑛; 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗≤=
smaller
𝑗𝑗1,(12,+…100 𝑚𝑚) than
) the maximum (6)(𝑖𝑖 = 1,nu 2
minform𝑓𝑓 𝑥𝑥,of𝑦𝑦 MINLP is nite,
spreading Stochastic,
𝑛𝑛 is smaller and
1. 𝐾𝐾In𝑖𝑖 than Integer optimisation 𝐾𝐾 𝑖𝑖=1
− 𝐴𝐴 𝐾𝐾 , 𝐾𝐾 ≥ , 0𝑇𝑇 for
, 𝑆𝑆 , 𝑖𝑖𝐵𝐵 > , 𝐾𝐾𝑗𝑗 , 𝑃𝑃, 𝐵𝐵, 𝑀𝑀 ≥ 0 (𝑖𝑖 =
formula 𝐴𝐴𝐵𝐵𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗 the
∗formula ≤ 𝑇𝑇𝑆𝑆maximum
2, it + is stated number
that the .𝑛𝑛Incondition
formulas 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗2, 𝑖𝑖of 3 𝑛𝑛; and
the
𝑖𝑖 𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗 number 4,𝑗𝑗1, the2,𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 following
of𝑚𝑚) plies belonging condition to eac
𝑚𝑚 𝑛𝑛 𝑃𝑃
min 𝑓𝑓 𝑥𝑥, 𝑦𝑦 Subject 𝑚𝑚to
𝐴𝐴 ∗ − 𝑗𝑗 (1 = 0 ) (𝑖𝑖
(𝑖𝑖
𝑖𝑖 𝑚𝑚
=
= 1,
1, 𝐴𝐴 2, …
…∗ 𝐵𝐵 𝑛𝑛; 𝑗𝑗
≤ =
= 𝑀𝑀 1, 2, …
… 𝑚𝑚) (4)
(7) (𝑖𝑖 = 1, 2
models 𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1
=1 𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1 formula spreading
𝑗𝑗The 1.objective
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗Inprovided; formula 𝑗𝑗 is ∗(𝑖𝑖smaller
𝐵𝐵function 2,the than
𝑇𝑇it𝑖𝑖number
is ofstated
0 the maximum
thatcut
problem thepieces num
conditi
which
𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛faster, easier and more efficient. 𝑖𝑖=1 is𝑗𝑗is number of m
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖 𝑛𝑛 𝑚𝑚
=1 100 𝑖𝑖=1 =1
provided; 𝐴𝐴 𝑗𝑗 the− =  (7) (𝑖𝑖mu=
min f(x, y) The
𝐴𝐴 −, 𝐾𝐾 𝐾𝐾,𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
objective
𝑚𝑚
𝑖𝑖 𝑗𝑗𝑛𝑛𝑇𝑇 𝐴𝐴𝑗𝑗≤
𝑖𝑖 ,number
𝑆𝑆 𝐵𝐵0∗function
𝑗𝑗 ,𝐵𝐵
,smaller 𝐾𝐾𝑗𝑗of ≤ 𝑀𝑀 , 𝑃𝑃, of𝐵𝐵, the problem
𝑀𝑀maximum0 bewhich
≥must 𝐾𝐾 −(𝑖𝑖 𝐾𝐾𝑗𝑗minimises
=≥1,02, =1
for … 𝑖𝑖𝑛𝑛; 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗the
>𝑗𝑗 ,𝑗𝑗=
=
total 1,1,2,2, ……𝑚𝑚)
usage 𝑛𝑛) of of fabric cut(5)
(2)pieces
is
(8) (𝑖𝑖written
= 1, 2
s.t. 𝑐𝑐𝑖𝑖 𝑥𝑥, 𝑦𝑦 = 0 ∀𝑖𝑖 ∈ 𝐸𝐸 is LINGO
provided; spreading
𝑖𝑖=1
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗
𝑚𝑚 provides the =1 is
𝐾𝐾 a completely
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥
∗ 𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗>≥𝑗𝑗 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗 cut
than integrated
pieces
the more
number
𝑖𝑖 𝐴𝐴
(𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗𝑚𝑚than
,
= 1, .𝐾𝐾 In
1,𝑖𝑖 2,, the
𝑇𝑇 formulas
2,𝑖𝑖 … , 𝑆𝑆
…𝑗𝑗𝑛𝑛; order, 𝐵𝐵
𝑛𝑛; 𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗𝑗 = 𝐾𝐾 and
3
= 𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 1, 2,and 2, …less
, 𝑃𝑃,4,
… 𝑚𝑚) 𝐵𝐵,
𝑚𝑚) than
the 𝑀𝑀 ≥ the
following0 excess
(3) conditio
s.t.s.t. ci (x,
𝑐𝑐𝑖𝑖 𝑥𝑥, 𝑦𝑦 y)==00 ∀𝑖𝑖 ∈ 𝐸𝐸 package 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 =1 −that 𝐾𝐾𝑗𝑗𝑖𝑖=1 ≥includes0𝑖𝑖 for a powerful 𝑃𝑃lan- spreading
𝑛𝑛 (𝑖𝑖 = isThe
formula provided;
is ∗smaller
𝐴𝐴cutting 1.
𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗share In − share the
𝑇𝑇than
formula 1, =numberfor 0the 2,maximum
each itofis size. cut
stated In (6)
pieces
number
that
formula
(𝑖𝑖 = must
the 1,.5,
I2
co
cutting𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗objective 𝑖𝑖function
for each of size. the problem
In formula which
formula
𝑚𝑚
𝑛𝑛 𝑛𝑛 1. In formula 2, it is stated
𝑚𝑚 𝐾𝐾
𝐴𝐴 ∗ ∗ 𝐴𝐴 𝐵𝐵 ≤
− 𝑆𝑆
𝑇𝑇 (1
= +
0 ) that the 𝑖𝑖=1 𝑗𝑗 =1
condition
(𝑖𝑖
(𝑖𝑖 =
= 1,
1, 2,
2, of
…
… the
𝑛𝑛;
𝑛𝑛; 𝑗𝑗
𝑗𝑗 number
=
= 1,
1, 2,
2, …
… of 𝑚𝑚)
𝑚𝑚) plies belonging (4)
(7) to5,eac i
𝑐𝑐𝑖𝑖 c𝑥𝑥,i (x,
s.t.s.t. 𝑦𝑦 y)==00 ∀𝑖𝑖 ∈ I guageis
cutting for
share𝑗𝑗
𝑖𝑖=1 =1 expressing
provided; for𝑗𝑗 =1each
𝑖𝑖=1 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗the
𝑖𝑖 size.optimisation
𝑗𝑗 In 𝑖𝑖formula
number
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗 of cut mod-
100 5,pieces
it is stated
𝐴𝐴𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 , 𝐾𝐾that
must be
𝑖𝑖 , 𝑇𝑇more 𝑖𝑖 ,the 𝑆𝑆𝑗𝑗 , length
𝐵𝐵𝑗𝑗than , 𝐾𝐾𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 of, the
the order
𝑃𝑃, 𝐵𝐵,marker 𝑀𝑀and ≥ 0plan less (8)than mustthe be exce
s.t. 𝑐𝑐𝑖𝑖 𝑥𝑥, 𝑦𝑦 = 0 ∀𝑖𝑖 ∈ I The 𝑛𝑛 objective 𝑚𝑚
𝐴𝐴 , 𝐵𝐵∗function of𝐵𝐵, the 𝑀𝑀problem which is provided; cutting
minimises
spreading shorter theshare 1.is the number =for
smaller
than total 1,that each of
2,usage than size.
cut
of𝑚𝑚) the itpieces
of
the In
fabricformula
maximum
table must
isthat
for
(5) 5,
be
written
any numbitmo
spre is
𝐴𝐴 𝑖𝑖=1
spreading
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 , 𝐾𝐾𝑖𝑖 ,𝑗𝑗𝑇𝑇=1 𝑖𝑖 , 𝑆𝑆 𝑗𝑗 ,𝐵𝐵
is𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗smaller
≤ 𝑀𝑀
𝐾𝐾𝑗𝑗𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 , 𝑃𝑃,
than the maximum number
≥0 (𝑖𝑖
The = formula 1,shorter
.objective
2,
In formulas
… 𝑛𝑛; than 𝑗𝑗function
In formula
3that andof
…of4,the
2,
thetable
the is
problem stated
following for (8) any
which the
sprea
conditio mc
𝑥𝑥 10
∈X shorter 𝐾𝐾 than
cutting
𝑖𝑖 − that
𝐾𝐾 𝑗𝑗 share
≥ of 0 thefor
for table
𝑖𝑖 each> 𝑗𝑗 forsize. any In spreading.
formula 5, Init
FIBRES formula
is (𝑖𝑖 stated
& = TEXTILES 1, 2, 6,
that … the
in the
Eastern
𝑛𝑛; condition
𝑗𝑗 length
= Europe 1, 2,2020, of
… that the
Vol.
𝑚𝑚) the
28, marker maximum
1(139) plan
(6) must b
𝑥𝑥 ∈ X formula
𝑛𝑛 𝑚𝑚 1. In formula 2, it is stated that the
𝐴𝐴 ∗ 𝐵𝐵 − 𝑇𝑇 The
cutting condition
objective isshorter share
spreadingprovided;
number offor than
function
theis each that
number
the
of smaller plies
of
size.
numberof the
the
of
isInsmaller
than table
problem
formula
plies
ofthe cutfor
belonginganyitthe
5,
pieces
than
maximum
which(7)
spreadin
ismust
stated
to
prev
num
minim
eac
is 𝑖𝑖=1 provided; 𝑗𝑗 =1 𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗the number 𝑗𝑗 = 0
𝑖𝑖 of cut pieces must formula (𝑖𝑖
be more= 1, 2,
number …
1.than 𝑛𝑛;
In formula 𝑗𝑗
oftheplies= 1,
order 2, 2, …
is it 𝑚𝑚)
smaller
and is statedlessthan that
than the theprevio
the cond
exce
𝑦𝑦 ∈ Y integer number𝐴𝐴 shorter
of ,plies
The objective
𝐾𝐾 , than
𝑇𝑇 is
, 𝑆𝑆 ,that
smaller
𝐵𝐵 function
, 𝐾𝐾 of than the, 𝑃𝑃, table
of thethe
𝐵𝐵, 𝑀𝑀for any
previous
problem
≥ 0 spreading.
ones
which is indicated. In formula
minimises Formulathe6,total the 7condition is used
usage of to that
fabric the
calculateis maximu
(8) written
𝑦𝑦 ∈ Y integer spreading is smaller than the maximum number
𝑖𝑖𝑗𝑗 𝑖𝑖 𝑖𝑖 𝑗𝑗 𝑗𝑗 𝑚𝑚𝑎𝑎𝑥𝑥 shorter number
. than
cutting Inprovided;formulas that
share of of plies for the3 of istable
and
each smaller
4,size. for
the any than
following
In the
spreading.
formula previous
conditio
5,must In
itsepis
cutting share for each size. In formula 5,formula it isspreadingstated
is
1. the Inthethat formulaislength
length thesmaller the
length of itnumber
2, than different
is ofstated
different the of
the that
maximum
marker
spreadings
cut
spreadings pieces
the plancondition
numbersepar
must b
The objective function of the problem Table 3. Manual and LINGO solutions for coat production. Note: *Average length of a size
which minimises the total usage of fabric calculated as 205.49 cm.
is written in Equation (1). In Equation
Sizes T48 T50 T52 T54 T56 T58 T60 T62 No. of Marker plan
(2), it is stated that the condition of the plies length, cm
Total order 37 84 84 84 59 38 22 8
number of plies belonging to each spread-
1. Spreading 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 1 8 615
ing is smaller than the maximum number
2. Spreading 0 0 0 0 2 0 1 0 24 615
. In Equations (3) and (4), the following
condition is provided; the number of cut 3. Spreading 2 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 21 820

pieces must be more than the order and 4. Spreading 0 2 2 2 0 0 0 0 42 1230

less than the excess cutting share for each No. of pieces 42 84 84 84 64 42 24 8 Total length, cm
size. In Equation (5), it is stated that the ECR, % 13.51 0 0 0 8.47 10.52 9.09 0 88560
length of the marker plan must be shorter LINGO Solution
than that of the table for any spreading. In Sizes T48 T50 T52 T54 T56 T58 T60 T62 No. of Marker plan
Equation (6), the condition that the max- Total order 37 84 84 84 59 38 22 8 plies length, cm
imum number of plies is smaller than the 1. Spreading 0 2 1 2 1 1 0 0 38 1438.48
previous ones is indicated. Equation (7)
2. Spreading 2 0 2 0 1 0 2 0 11 1438.48
is used to calculate the length of different
3. Spreading 0 1 3 1 0 0 0 1 8 1232.98
spreadings separately. Equation (8) pro-
4. Spreading 3 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 5 1027.48
vides the condition that all variables are
greater than 0. No. of pieces 37 84 84 84 59 38 22 8 Total length, cm
ECR, % 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 85486.51

Findings and results

Table 4. Manual and LINGO solutions for trouser production. Note: *Average length of
The results obtained from the COP of a size calculated as 112,22 cm.
shirts, coats, trousers and sweatshirts are
Sizes T24 T26 T28 T30 T32
given, and the findings obtained from the No. of plies
Marker plan
Total Order 40 205 35 10 10 length, cm
software were compared with manual
solutions in terms of the total spreading 1. Spreading 0 2 0 1 1 11 472.09

length. 2. Spreading 0 4 0 0 0 30 435.22

3. Spreading 1 2 1 0 0 44 433.28
Findings in shirt production No. of pieces 44 230 44 11 11 Total length, cm

The maximum length of the table is ECR, % 10 12.19 25.71 10 10 37313.91

16 meters. Up to 200 plies can be laid LINGO Solution
for shirt fabric. Table 1 shows the distri- Sizes T24 T26 T28 T30 T32 Marker plan
No. of plies
bution of the order for each size and the Total Order 40 205 35 10 10 length, cm
solution produced by the employee. 1. Spreading 2 9 1 0 0 15 1346.71*
2. Spreading 1 7 2 1 1 10 1346.71*
In Table 2, the results of 3082 iterations No. of pieces 40 205 35 10 10 Total length, cm
are given by LINGO software. The key
ECR, % 0 0 0 0 0 33667.85*
issue is to calculate the average length
of a size for the solution. To calculate the
average length of a size; different samples Table 5. Manual and LINGO solutions for sweatshirt production. Note: *Average length of
were taken and the total length of the fab- a size calculated as 100 cm.
ric used for each order was divided by the Sizes S M L XL XXL Marker plan
total number of sizes in that order. The av- No. of plies
length, cm
Total Order 130 348 444 304 152
erage size was calculated as 127.28 cm for
1. Spreading 0 2 3 2 1 40 800
the same product group (shirt).
2. Spreading 0 2 3 2 1 40 800

Findings in coat production 3. Spreading 0 2 3 2 1 40 800

4. Spreading 0 2 3 2 1 40 800
The maximum length of the table is
5. Spreading 1 1 1 0 1 13 400
16 meters, where up to 50 plies can be
laid for shirt fabric. Table 3 shows the 6. Spreading 4 1 0 0 0 35 500

distribution of the order for each size and No. of pieces 153 368 493 320 173 Total length, cm
the solution produced by the employee ECR. % 17.69 5.74 11.03 5.26 13.81 150700
and LINGO. In the manual solution, the LINGO Solution
COP was prepared for 4 spreadings, and Sizes S M L XL XXL Marker plan
No. of plies
the total spreading length was calculated Total Order 130 348 444 304 152 length, cm
as 88560 cm. After 3087495 iterations, 1. Spreading 1 1 6 8 4 38 2000
LINGO calculated the total spreading 2. Spreading 3 10 7 0 0 31 2000
length as 85486 cm, and cutting was
No. of pieces 131 348 445 304 152 Total length, cm
planned for 4 spreadings with a 0% ex-
ECR. % 0.76 0 0.22 0 0 138000
cess cutting rate.

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2020, Vol. 28, 1(139) 11

Table 6. Manual and LINGO solution comparison for different orders. riod of time and results obtained with the
branch and bound algorithm used by the
Manual LINGO Difference, No. of sizes Fabric
Product
solution, m solution, m m in Order savings, %
software. The algorithm aims to find the
Shirt 1 406 381 25 4 6.56
best solution for a given function. The re-
Shirt 2 198 176 22 4 11.11
sults of the program were transferred to
Shirt 3 327 309 18 4 5.50 Excel software for easier understanding.
Shirt 4 332 317 15 4 4.51 As a result of the study, it is ensured that
Shirt 5 695 635 60 4 8.63 fabric can be used more efficiently with
Shirt 6 507 444 63 8 12.42 respect to today’s apparel application,
Coat 885 854 31 8 3.5 which is solved by a manual method for
Trousers 1 373 336 37 5 9.91 different types of products.
Trousers 2 42.9 42.5 0.4 4 0.93
Sweatshirt 1 1507 1380 130 5 8.62 In the study, the results obtained from
Sweatshirt 2 1490 1400 90 5 6.04 different models belonging to 4 different
Average Efficiency 7.06 products show that approximately 7%
fabric gain was achieved for all products
(see Table 6). The resulting fabric gain
Table 7. Comparison of the length of the marker plan for manual and LINGO solutions. varies between 4% and 13%. The main
Manual Solution LINGO Solution
reasons for this variation are the order
Maximum Maximum Fabric and size of the order and how effectively
Product Maximum no. Maximum
marker plan marker plan savings, % the employee solved the COP problem.
of sizes no. of sizes
length, m length, m In the solution for the second model of
Shirt 1 6 7.92 10 12.72 6.56 trousers, since the number of orders and
Shirt 2 3 3.83 11 13.97 11.11 body variations were low, the operator
Shirt 3 7 9.46 9 11.43 5.50 was able to produce the best solution,
Shirt 4 2 2.62 12 15.24 4.51 and the algorithm developed was able to
Shirt 5 4 5.30 10 12.70 8.63 provide an approximately 1% improve-
Shirt 6 4 5.65 9 11.43 12.42 ment. The results obtained for the shirt
Coat 6 12.3 7 14.38 3.5 show that as the size diversity increases
Trousers 1 4 4.72 12 13.46 9.91 (as the problem becomes more complex),
Trousers 2 3 3.38 13 14.56 0.93 the employee’s probability of producing
Sweatshirt 1 8 8 17 20 8.62 the best solution is decreased.
Sweatshirt 2 8 8 20 20 6.04
Average Efficiency 7.06 Although fabric gain optimisation is
based on different models and products,
the complexity of the cut order plan plays
Findings in trouser production Results and discussion an active role in the development of the
The maximum length of the table is
In this study, the cutting department results rather than the product type. How-
16 meters, where up to 100 layers can be
of apparel enterprises was examined, ever, it is possible to reach a general con-
laid for trousers. Table 4 shows the distri-
problems therein investigated, and what clusion about marker planning: a longer
bution of the order for each size and the marker plan results in less fabric loss.
should be done for a more efficient study
solution produced by the employee. In the discussed. In this context, fabric cost, This result is more clearly shown in Ta-
manual solution, the COP was prepared which constitutes a large part of the pro- ble 7.
for 3 spreadings, and the total spreading duction costs, is emphasised. As a result
length was calculated as 37314 cm. Af- of the interviews and analyses carried out Even though the fabric savings and the
ter 2549 iterations, LINGO calculated in the enterprises, it was determined that marker plan length of the LINGO and
the total spreading length as 33668 cm, the fabric could be used more efficiently employee solutions cannot be correlated
and cutting was planned for 2 spreadings with a cut order plan optimisation study. by a linear relationship, it is a fact that
with a 0% excess cutting rate. In order to decrease fabric losses and use the tendency of the optimisation pro-
fabric more efficiently, the parameters gram, which gives better results for all
Findings in sweatshirt production affecting this problem were determined. applications, is for a longer marker plan.
The maximum length of the table is These are the length of the cutting table,
20 meters, where up to 45 layers can be the maximum number of plies of each The following points are recommended
laid for pants. Table 5 shows the distri- order, the average length calculated for to researchers who will work on this in
bution of the order for each size and the each size, and the order quantity of each the future:
solution produced by the employee. In the size. In order to reach an optimum solu- n To develop an algorithm for cuttings
manual solution, the COP was prepared tion to this problem, a model was created of different coloured fabrics on top of
for 6 spreadings, and the total spreading using mixed integer nonlinear program- each other,
length was calculated as 150700 cm. Af- ming, and the LINGO computer pro- n After determining the standard times
ter 57277 iterations, LINGO calculated gram was used to implement this model. of all operations in the cutting depart-
the total spreading length as 138000 cm, The LINGO program evaluates all the ment, change the objective function
and cutting was planned for 2 spreadings possibilities that cannot be solved man- to minimising the total time of the
with a 0,76% excess cutting rate. ually by an employee in a very short pe- spreading process,

12 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2020, Vol. 28, 1(139)

n To improve the algorithm by includ-
ing the marker plan efficiencies esti-
mated for the problem,
n To solve the same problem with dif-
ferent optimisation methods (such as
artificial neural networks and a genet-
ic algorithm).

References
 1. Ng SFF, Hui CLP, Leaf GAV. A Mathe-
matical Model for Predicting Fabric Loss
during Spreading. International Journal
of Clothing Science and Technology
1999;11(2/3): 76-83.
 2. Akhil JK. Apparel Engineering: Industrial
Engineering Methods for Apparel Indu-
stry. Amazon Asia-Pacific Holdings Pri-
vate Limited; 2016.
 3. Paşayev N. Investigating the Effects of
Production Planning on Fabric Costs in
Confection Production. Tekstil ve Kon-
feksiyon 2010; 20(3): 262-270.
 4. Rose DM, Shier DR. Cut Scheduling in
the Apparel Industry. Computers & Ope-
rations Research 2007; 34(11): 3209-
3228.
 5. Degraeve Z, Vandebroek M. A Mixed
Integer Programming Model for Solving
a Layout Problem in the Fashion Indu-
stry. Management Science 1998; 44(3):
301-310.
 6. Wong WK, Leung SYS. Genetic Optimi-
zation of Fabric Utilization in Apparel
Manufacturing. International Journal of
Production Economics 2008; 114(1):
376-387.
 7. Ng SF, Hui CL, Leaf GAV. Fabric Loss
During Spreading: A Theoretical Analy-
sis and its Implications. The Journal of
The Textile Institute 1998; 89: 686-695.
 8. Jacobs-Blecha C, Ammons JC, Schutte
A, Smith T. Cut Order Planning for Ap-
parel Manufacturing. IIE Transactions
1998; 30(1): 79-90.
 9. Nascimento DB, Figueiredo N, Mayerle
SF, Nascimento PR, Casali RM. A State
-Space Solution Search Method for Ap-
parel Industry Spreading. International
Journal of Production Economics 2010;
128(1): 379-392.
10. Hillier FS, Lieberman GJ. Introduction
to Operations Research, Mc Graw Hill,
Singapore; 2010.
11. NEOS Guide: Companion Site to the
NEOS Server [https://neos-guide.org/].
Mixed Integer Nonlinear Programming
[cited 2018 Dec 12]. Available from: ht-
tps://neos-guide.org/content/mixed-inte-
ger-nonlinear-programming
12. LINDO System Inc [https://www.lindo.
com/]. LINGO 18.0 – Optimization Mo-
deling Software for Linear, Nonlinear,
and Integer Programming [cited 2018
Dec 12]. Available from: https://www.
FIBRES & TEXTILES
lindo.com/index.php/products/lingo-and-
-optimization-modeling.
in Eastern Europe
reaches all corners of the world!
Received 02.05.2019 Reviewed 24.07.2019

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2020, Vol. 28, 1(139) 13