Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1045e1051

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Journal of Cleaner Production

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Eco-friendly dyeing of wool using natural dye from weld as co-partner

with synthetic dye
Mohammad Mirjalili a, *, Khosro Nazarpoor a, Loghman Karimi b
a
Department of Textile Engineering, Islamic Azad University, Yazd Branch, Yazd, Iran
b
Young Researchers Club, Science and Research Branch, Islamic Azad University, Tehran, Iran

a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Since the last decade, the application of natural dyes on textile materials is gaining popularity all over the
Received 6 February 2010 world, possibly because of increasing awareness of environment, ecology, and pollution control. In this
Received in revised form research, extraction of dyes from weld using soxhlet apparatus has been studied. The color components
1 February 2011
extracted and isolated from weld plant were characterized by Column Chromatography, Thin Layer
Accepted 3 February 2011
Available online 23 February 2011
Chromatography (TLC), NMR, mass, IR techniques. The natural dye extract obtained from the weld was
used for the dyeing of wool fiber. The results indicated that the exhaustion rate for the extracted dye
increases by 49% compared to the raw dye. This, in turn, leads to a considerable decrease in the amount
Keywords:
Weld
of the extracted dye used to reach the same desired results. Finally, for comparative studies between
Extraction synthetic and this natural dye, all dyed specimens were tested for wash and light fastness properties,
Ethanol making weld a viable alternative to synthetic acid dyes.
Dyeing Ó 2011 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Wool
Natural dye

1. Introduction world is shifting towards the use of eco-friendly and biodegradable

1.1. Natural dye
Since prehistoric times, natural dyes have been used for many
purposes such as the coloring of natural fibers wool, cotton and silk
as well as fur and leather. The dyes were also used to color cosmetic
products and to produce inks, watercolors and artists’ paints. The
use of natural dyes to color textiles declined rapidly after the
discovery of synthetic dyes by Perkin in 1856, until they were
virtually unused by 1900 (Cristea and Vilarem, 2006; Lee et al.,
2008). In the mid 1960s, an international awareness of environ-
ment, ecology and pollution control created an upsurge in the
interest in natural dyes. Recently, the dye industry is more and
more forced to reduce toxic effluents and to stop the production of
potentially dangerous dyes or pigments. Natural dyes/colorants
derived from flora and fauna are believed to be safe because of their
non-toxic, non-carcinogenic and biodegradable nature. Further,
natural dyes do not cause pollution and waste water problems and
represent a more environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic
dyes. Some of them have also been reported to possess anti-UV and
anti-microbial properties. As the present trend throughout the
* Corresponding author. Tel.: þ98 3518231849; fax: þ98 35182021 26.
E-mail address: mir_textile@yahoo.com (M. Mirjalili).
commodities, the demand for natural dyes is increasing day by day
(Ali et al., 2009; Guinot et al., 2008).
The great abundance and wide geographic distribution over the
world (Europe, Western Asia and North America) made weld
(Reseda luteola L.) one of the first and most used yellow dyes
(Natural yellow 2 CI75580, CI75590). In 1896, Perkin confirmed the
presence of luteolin in weld. Weld has been used since 5000 years
ago by dyers in Iran and other countries as well (Mikropoulou et al.,
2009; Marquesa et al., 2009; Gilbert and Cooke, 2001; Cristea et al.,
2003).
1.2. Safety aspects
Synthetic colorants have been cited as causing skin complaints,
and illnesses and cancer. Close skin contact with colored textiles
(e.g. leggings heavily dyed with azo and anthraquinone disperse
dyes) has been a concern, and some cases of dermatitis have been
reported. Respiratory sensitivity to synthetic dyes has also been
reported. Many synthetic colorants are classified as toxic when in
contact with skin and the consumers in world require more safe
clothing products especially for babies and children (Anliker et al.,
1988; Bechtold and Mussak, 2009; Angelini et al., 2003). Several
natural dyes are also used as coloring matters in food, for which
a low toxicity is obviously crucial. Even so, annatto, cochineal

0959-6526/$ e see front matter Ó 2011 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.02.001
1046 M. Mirjalili et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1045e1051
Table 1
Solvents used for column chromatography.
Number of Sample Solvent
1e20 Chloroform
21e27 Chloroform/Ethanol (75:25, v/v)
28e33 Chloroform/Ethanol (95: 5, v/v)
34e36 Chloroform/Ethanol (90: 10, v/v)
(carmine), saffron and turmeric appear on lists of permitted food
additives in the EU and USA (Green, 1995; Hendry and Houghton,
1992). Balfour-Paul has reviewed the use of textiles dyed with
natural dye by Arabic people, who perceive that wearing such
textiles next to the skin has a positive health benefit, including
a lower incidence of illness. Therefore it has to be admitted that
arguments for natural dyes being 100% safe to health can run into
difficulties (Balfour-Paul, 1997).
1.3. Environmental aspects
Textile processing industry is one of the major environmental
polluters. In order to process a ton of textile, one might have to use
as much as 230e270 tons of water. The effluent generated by this
much water would pollute the environment as it may contain
a heavy load of chemicals used during textile processing. There are
two main ways to limit the environmental impact of textile pro-
cessing. One is to construct sufficiently large and highly effective
effluent treatment plants, and the other way is to make use of dyes
and chemicals that are environment friendly.
Recently, several studies have reported the dyeing of natural
fiber such as cotton, silk, wool, linen, jute and flax with natural
dyes. Natural dyes are mostly eco-friendly, less toxic, and less
allergenic as compared with synthetic dyes (Feng et al., 2007;
Vankar et al., 2007; Bechtold et al., 2003; Komboonchoo and
Bechtold, 2009; Samanta et al., 2009; Sarkar and Seal, 2003).
Natural dyes exhibit better biodegradability and generally have
a better compatibility with the environment (Deo and Paul, 2000;
Montazer and Parvinzadeh, 2007, 2004; Montazer et al., 2007).
In this study, non-toxic and eco-friendly dye was extracted from
weld using soxhlet apparatus and the extracted dyes were exam-
ined by Column Chromatography, TLC, NMR, MS and IR. This
research work also aims to introduce the natural dyeing of wool by
weld as co-partner with synthetic dyeing.
2. Experimental section
2.1. Materials and methods
The chemical solvents (standard materials) were used for
identification purposes; Chloroform (P.N. 1024421000), Ethanol
(P.N. 1070172511), Silicagel (P.N. 1151111000), Petroleum Ether (P.N.
921), Diethyl Ether (P.N. 1009311000), Ammonium Sulphate (P.N.
1012165000) and Acetone (P.N. 1000141000) were purchased from
Merck. Ortolan Yellow G (Acid Yellow 59, CI18690) was used in
synthetic dyeing. NMR spectra were obtained by 1H NMR 300 MHz,
spectrophotometer (CDCl3), infrared (IR) taken by Shimadzu 470,
mass spectrometry (MS) taken by Quattro LC (Micromass, Man-
chester, UK), TLC method by aluminum sheet, silica gel 60 F25u was
done. UVeVis spectroscopic analyses were performed on a Varian-
Carry 100 spectrophotometer. Ahiba Polymat dyeing machinery
was used for dyeing the samples.
2.2. Chromatography
At first, we employed the soxhlet apparatus for extracting
colorant from weld by ethanol solvent. The dissolved colorant in
ethanol was collected by means of rotary evaporator and the
collected extract was mixed with silicagel (Silicagel 60 F25u) in
order to convert it to colorant powder.
The colorant powder was immersed into column chromato-
graph, and then washed by different mixed solvents from non-polar
to polar; Petroleum ether, petroleum ether/diethyl ether, diethyl
ether, diethyl ether/chloroform, chloroform, chloroform/ethanol,
ethanol and acetone.
The total number of samples used at this stage was 36 pieces,
and in order to distinguish the number of spots on silica sheet
(2  4.5 cm), each of these samples was tested by thin layer chro-
matography (TLC) method. Samples with similar and equal spots,
were mixed together and numbered (Table 1).
To separate and analyze the numbered colorant samples, they
were set like spots on a line on a silica sheet. The spotted silica sheet
was then immersed in a TLC tank and the sheet was washed by
a suitable predetermined solvent. This caused the separation of
different color bases from the main line and the formation of
different thin bands. Then the Rf for each band was calculated
(Table 2).
In order to separate the colorant from the silica sheet, the thin
bands were cut and put into the acetone or methanol solvent and
then they were filtered.
To ensure that the samples (dye liquor) contain the same
product, the samples were tested by TLC again (petroleum ether/
chloroform (95: 5 v/v)).
TLC experiments showed that some of these samples still con-
tained several spots that were again separated.
Finally, the different functional groups of these samples were
identified by IR, NMR and MS methods.
2.3. Toxicity assay
A extract of weld (1 g/100 ml) was prepared and, from this stock,
different concentrations (50, 75 and 100 ppm) were prepared for
testing and were finally applied to sterile 9 cm diameter Whatman
No. 1 filter paper disks in Petri dishes. Then 10 surface-disinfected
green grams (moong beans) were placed on the wetted paper. After
14 days of incubation at 27  1  C, total root growth (germination)
was measured and compared with the control (untreated sample)
and expressed as root growth inhibition percentage (Nagia and
EL-Mohamedy, 2007).
2.4. Dyeing method for natural dye
The absorbability of the extracted dye using ethanol solvent has
been compared to that of the dye from the raw plant in order to
determine the dyeing efficiency rate through dyeing wool fibers.
The wool fibers were dyed in an AHIBA dyeing system with
extracted dye using ethanol solvent and raw dye. The dye bath was
comprised of 2% dye, 1% acetic acid and 3% potash alum (KAl(SO4)2,
12(H2O)) The liquor ratio was kept at 40:1, the bath temperature
Table 2
Comparison Rf of some base color in the weld dye.
Sample Solvent Rf
1e20 Chloroform Rf ¼ 0.3, Rf ¼ 0.45, Rf ¼ 0.55,
Rf ¼ 0.6, Rf ¼ 0.85
21e27 Chloroform/Ethanol Rf ¼ 0.09, Rf ¼ 0.25, Rf ¼ 0.65
(75:25)
28e33 Chloroform/Ethanol Rf ¼ 0.21, Rf ¼ 0.53, Rf ¼ 0.66,
(50:50) Rf ¼ 0.87, Rf ¼ 0.93
34e36 Chloroform/Ethanol Rf ¼ 0.12, Rf ¼ 0.17, Rf ¼ 0.71, Rf ¼ 0.97
(80:20)
 M. Mirjalili et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1045e1051 1047

Fig. 1. IR and NMR spectra from the weld a- Chloroform, b- Chloroform/Ethanol (50:50), c- Chloroform/Ethanol (80:20).
1048 M. Mirjalili et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1045e1051

lmax of the weld dye adsorption extracted by ethanol and boiling

water as pure dye in 360 nme780 nm in blank solution of water
was calculated by adsorbing spectrophotometer. Also, calibration
graph of the above dye was calculated in lmax by preparing the
standard solution of 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06 and 0.07 g l1. All
measurements were done at room temperature and the following
relation calculated the exhaustion percent:

%E ¼ ½A  ðB þ CÞ  100=A
Where, E was the exhaustion percent, A the total dye concentration
in bath dying, B the dye concentration that is removed in bath dying
and C the dye concentration in bath washing.
Fig. 2. Chemical structure of extracted color bases.

2.5. Dyeing method for acid dye

Table 3
Dyeing was carried out by using of Ortolan Yellow G (C.I. Acid
Color bases and functional groups of extracted color bases.
Yellow 59, 18690) with liquor ratio 1:20, 1.5% acetic acid 80% and
1) Luteolin R1 ¼ OH, R2 ¼ OH sodium sulphate 10% at 100  C dyeing temperature for 45 min. After
2) Luteolin-7-Glucoside R1 ¼ O-glucose, R2 ¼ OH
washing process, the color coordinates by using spectrophotometer
3) Luteolin-30 -Glucoside R1 ¼ OH, R2 ¼ O-glucose
4) Luteolin-30 , 7-Diglucoside R1 ¼ O-glucose, R2 ¼ O-glucose and fastness properties were conducted.
5) Luteolin-5-Glucoside R1 ¼ R2 ¼ OH
6) Luteolin-40 -Glucoside R1 ¼ R2 ¼ OH 2.6. Fastness testing
7) Luteolin-40 , 5-Diglucoside R1 ¼ R2 ¼ OH
8) Apigenin R1 ¼ OH, R2 ¼ H
Washing fastness of the dyed samples was tested according to
the ISO 105-CO3 method. The samples were washed in a standard
soap solution at 60  C for 30 min, keeping liquor to material ratio as
1:50. Light fastness was tested according to the ISO 105-BO2
method. The dyed samples were exposed to xenon arc lamp for 24 h
at standard testing conditions (Anon, 1990).

3. Result and discussion

3.1. Identification of coloring compounds

Considering the results from IR and NMR spectra, shown in

Fig. 1, when the extracted color bases from the weld by ethanol
solvent were purified with the mentioned methods, the following
items were produced (Fig. 2, Table 3).

Fig. 3. MS graph of extracted weld dye by ethanol. 3.2. MS spectrophotometry

Mass spectroscopy was used to identify the compound of the

was set at 60  C for 5 min. Then the temperature was raised
to100  C by a thermal gradient of 2  C min1, and dyeing operation
continued for 45 min. At the end of the dyeing operation, the dye
concentration of each bath dyeing and washing bath was measured
by the absorption spectrophotometer technique.
extracted weld dye by ethanol. As shown in Fig. 3, mass spectra
were presented as percent of ion frequency (m/z).
Most compound ions in the ionization place have a highest peak
in value spectra which is called “the base peak”, while the other
peaks in spectra are observed to be the main peak. With regard to

Fig. 4. MS fragmentation of the weld extracted by ethanol.

 M. Mirjalili et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1045e1051 1049

Table 4 Table 5
Specifications of the weld dye extracted in ethanol and boiling water. The exhaustion of dyed wool fibers with weld dye extracted by ethanol and boiling
water.
Dye lmax Color Equation
Weld dye extracted by ethanol 368 Abs. ¼ 13.8181937  Conc. Dye Dye Concentration in Dye Concentration % Exhaustion
Weld dye extracted by boiling water 393 Abs. ¼ 5.56625  Conc. Bath Dying (g/l) in Bath Washing (g/l)
Weld dye extracted 0.02 0.029 98
by ethanol
Weld dye extracted 3.31 1.7 50
the weld mass spectra, by breaking the base molecular of dye and
by boiling water
converting it into molecular ions, the molecular compound and the
molecular weight can be obtained. As observed in the present
graphs, this can introduce the molecular bound breaking mechanism
(Fig. 4).
Table 6
Fastness properties of dyed wool fibers with the weld dye extracted by ethanol and
3.3. Toxicity assay boiling water.

Dye Washing Staining Test on Light

The results demonstrate that weld extract at different concen- Fastness Wool Fastness
trations caused no inhibition to germination and root growth to the Weld dye extracted by ethanol 5 4e5 6
green grams (moong beans) and a growth rate of more than 93% Weld dye extracted by boiling 4e5 3e4 5e6
was observed. The untreated and treated green grams were almost water
equal in their germination and growth rate. Thus, the dye extract
was found to be non-toxic.
3.6. Comparison of shades of natural dye extract with synthetic acid
3.4. Dyeing condition dye

lmax of the weld dye extracted in ethanol solution and boiling
water, and also the calibration graph of those dyes are shown in
Table 4 and Fig. 5.
Extracted dye has more exhaustion percent as compared to the
raw weld dye. The results from dying treatment are given in Table 5.
The obtained results from color exhaustion show that the color
extracted by ethanol solvent enjoys a high absorbability.
In the meantime, this high exhaustion was resulted from only
10 g of raw plant and by ethanol solvent, whereas in comparison
with the boiling water, 100 g of raw plant was needed to obtain the
some result. On the other hand, using the dye solution obtained
from 10 g of raw plant by boiling water resulted in 49% exhaustion
for the weld.
3.5. Fastness properties
Table 6 shows the fastness properties of the wool samples dyed
with the extracted dye and the raw dye with the metachrome
method. As can be seen, there was no change in washing and light
fastness properties of dyes. However, the results show that the
dyed samples, extracted by ethanol and boiling water, have high
fastness and this is because of groups such as C ¼ C, C ¼ O in natural
dye, that because of its bounds and non-saturation properties,
adsorb by fiber and increase washing fastness.
As shown in Table 7, the overall two percent shades for acid dye
was matched with welds extract including synthetic acid dye, 1%
(O.W.F.) Yellow G. The recipe was developed by using spectra flash
SF 600. It was finalized by conducting various recipes but above
mentioned was the final recipe. The shade and tone could also be
evaluated by viewing the L*, a*, b*, C* and h values given in Table 7.
These values demonstrate the matching of acid dye shade with
natural. The less deviation among these values indicates excellent
matching. Similarly with the help of spectra flash spectrophotom-
eter SF 600, the other recipes had been obtained for the samples
dyed with weld ethanolic extract that dyed in presence of mordants
(2, 10% alum). The comparison of shades and tones of natural dyes
with synthetic acid dye through their color coordinate values is also
given in Table 7.
3.7. Comparison of fastness properties of natural dye with acid dye
3.7.1. Washing fastness
The wash fastness of fabric dyed without mordant, with
optimum mordant concentrations for natural dyes (weld’s etha-
nolic extract) and sample dyed with acid dye are indicated in Table
8. These results were assessed in the usual way in terms of the gray
scale values for the staining of adjacent wool material and alter-
ation in shade. It is indicated that sample with natural dye extract

Fig. 5. UVeVis spectra of the weld dye extracted in ethanol (A) and boiling water (B).
1050 M. Mirjalili et al. / Journal of Cleaner Production 19 (2011) 1045e1051

Table 7
Colors coordinate values of weld and acid dye.

Dye type Color coordinates

L* a* b* C* h
Weld extract 58.71 4.82 38.17 36.78 79.14
Acid dye (matching with weld shade) 57.64 5.83 39.52 37.12 78.46
Weld pre-mordant 2% alum 55.43 7.90 40.57 40.78 75.12
Acid dye (matching with weld pre-mordant shade with 2% alum) 55.59 8.00 40.88 42.15 74.15
Weld post-mordant 10% alum 61.83 7.20 40.40 40.32 75.34
Acid dye (matching with weld post-mordant shade with 10% alum) 61.81 7.04 40.36 40.22 75.58

4. Conclusion
Table 8
Fastness properties of natural and acid dyes.
This is the first report where weld extract, used in wool dyeing,
Dye type Wash Light
has been shown as a source of a natural, non-toxic dye. In this work,
fastness fastness
we separated eight color bases from the weld plant and identified
Weld extract 5 6
Acid dye (matching with weld 4e5 7 the different functional groups by spectrophotometric methods; all
shade) of these purified products were from flavonoid groups.
Weld pre-mordant 2% alum 4 6e7 The color bases extracted from weld plant by ethanol contained
Acid dye (matching with weld 4e5 7 oxochromic groups, namely eOH groups, which because of their
pre-mordant shade with
high polarity increased the absorption and color intensity. The
2% alum)
Weld post-mordant 10% alum 4e5 7 dyeing results reveal that the exhaustion rate for the ethanolic
Acid dye (matching with weld 5 7 extracted dye increases by 49% compared to the raw dye extracted
post-mordant shade with 10% alum) by boiling water. This per se leads to a considerable decrease in the
amount of the extracted dye used to reach the same desired results.
The above experiments showed that natural dyeing can give
Table 9 good fastness properties to wool fiber using the weld plant as a dye
Comparative cost of weld and acid dyeing (in Iran Rial and American Dollar (U$) per source and this finding has good potential for commercial dyeing,
kg of wool fiber).
thus making textile dyeing more eco-friendly. Furthermore, most of
Dye type Cost (Rial) Cost (U$) the properties of natural dyes were competitive with acid dyes.
per kg of per kg of Thus this dye has good potential to act as co-partner with acid dyes.
wool fiber wool fiber
Weld dye extracted by boiling 14393e15227 1.38e1.46
water
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