A STUDY ON THE COMPARATIVE EFFECTIVENESS OF EUCALYPTUS DYE ON

PIQUE AND INTERLOCK COTTON KNIT MATERIALS

Ponnusamy.K1, Dr.Jayalakshmi. I2
1
P.G. Research Scholar, Dept. Costume Design and Fashion, Chikkanna Government Arts College, Tiruppur, Tamil
Nadu, India
2
Assistant Professor, Dept. Costume Design and Fashion, Chikkanna Government Arts College, Tiruppur, Tamil Nadu,
India

Abstract

Eco friendly fabrics play a pivotal role in textiles. Natural dyeing play an important part in colouring textiles.
Colouration of textiles with natural dyes are loved by consumers now-a- days. Consumers prefer to wear
clothes/garments that are eco friendly in nature and also eco friendly to skin. Hence, an attempt has been made to dye
the selected cotton knitted materials with eucalyptus dye and to study its impact of antimicrobial effect on knitted
materials. The results proved satisfactory and good.

Keywords: Knitted materials, Eucalyptus, Antimicrobial

1. INTRODUCTION
Natural dyes are derived from natural resources based upon their source of origin. These are broadly classified as plant,
animal, mineral and microbial dyes. As plants are the major sources of natural dyes interest in natural dyes grew.
Information about natural dyeing was collected from the old literature and traditional dyeing practices in different
regions were documented, compiled by various researchers. Later information on various dye-yielding plants, methods
to grow them, harvesting dye parts, methods to dye wool and silk with natural dye and colour shades developed were
also collected. Historically, plants have been used for the extraction of a majority of natural dyes. Many dyes are
available from tree waste or can be easily grown in market gardens. The famous natural blue dye, indigo is obtained
from the leaves of the plant indigofera tinctoria. Various plant parts including roots, leaves, twigs, stems, heartwood,
bark, wood shavings, flowers, fruits, rinds, hulls, husks and the like serve as natural dye sources [1]. Some plant-derived
dyes have other applications as they can be used as food ingredients and medicines in traditional medicine systems.

Natural dyes can produce special aesthetic qualities, when combined with the ethical significance of a product
that is environmentally friendly, gives added value to textile production as craftwork. But this could also be in response
to the negative impact created by synthetic dye manufacturing is having on the environment and human health. This is
caused during dye synthesis, the release of undesirable/hazardous and toxic chemicals in nature and the effect synthetic
dyes can have upon human health, as irritants/sensitizers synthetic dyes are often the cause of allergic reactions. In areas
where synthetic dyes, mordants (fixatives) and other additives are imported and therefore relatively expensive, natural
dyes can offer an attractive alternative. Recently there has been a revival of the growing interest on the application of
natural dyes on natural fibres due to world-wide environmental consciousness. [2] Therefore view in order to obtain
newer shades with acceptable colour fastness behavior and reproducible colour yield, appropriate scientific techniques
or procedures need to be derived from scientific studies on dyeing methods, dyeing process variables, dyeing kinetics
and compatibility of selective natural dyes.

In the world today, the position of natural dyes and colourants, ‘nature’s colours’ are at crossroads. They will either
vanish and with them the ancient knowledge and skill that has advanced with their use over centuries and across
civilizations or they will evolve to create a new form of colouration and with this be applied to new
environmental/sustainable applications and possibility be recognized for the health/healing aspects they can provide.
Currently there is increasing interest into natural dyes and colourants, as interest grows within the Industrialized Nations
in natural (Green) products and sustainable ways of living [3]. Hence this leads to a renewed interest in natural dyes
which has increased their commercial availability. Further growing interest in natural dye application is based on, not
just the system of national heritage protection and multifunctional properties, but with interest found in the fact that a
garment dyed by natural dyes holds an alternative economical, touristic as well as humanly, ecological significance [4].

This work is concerned with the extraction of dye from Eucalyptus bark and its application on selected cotton knit
materials in an endeavor to study on the application conditions and antibacterial activity.
2. METHODOLOGY

2.1 SELECTION OF FABRIC

Fabrics made from cotton yarn have immense “Breathable” property due to its high air permeability structure [5].
Cotton is a natural fibre which possesses most of the distinctive comfort properties compared to other cellulosic fibers
[6]. Cotton fabric is breathable and transmits moisture away from the body and is absorbent that removes liquid from
the skin. Because cotton is a natural product designed and manufactured into clothing, due to its many advantages, such
as its ability to control moisture, insulate, provide comfort, hypoallergenic, weather proof and is a durable fabric.
Keeping the above points in mind the investigator selected cotton material for the study.

2.2 SELECTION OF FABRIC CONSTRUCTION

Knitting is a process of fabric forming by the interlooping the loops of yarns. When one loop is drawn through another,
loops are formed in horizontal or vertical direction [7]. Due to the interesting looping structure of the yarn, the
investigator selected the knitted fabrics, pique (PO) (2×2) and interlock (IO) (1×1) knit for the study.

2.3 SELECTION OF DYE

Natural dyes are better than synthetic dyes. Natural dyes are better products, as they do not contain chemicals harmful
to health and environment. Natural dyed products are healthier and more reliable than the chemical synthetic dyed
products [8]. Hence the investigator planned to select natural dye for dyeing the cotton knit Pique (PO) and Interlock (IO)
fabrics for the study.

2.4 SELECTION OF NATURAL DYE

Eucalyptus bark is one of the most important sources of natural dye yielding several yellowish to brown colourants
[9].The eucalyptus bark contains a high amount of tannins, phenols and flavonoids. The tannins provide auxochromic
group to bind the colouring component to synthetic and natural fabrics. The eucalyptus bark was collected from trees,
grown at Chikkanna Government Arts College, Tirupur. The shed eucalyptus bark was collected by the investigator.
After the collection of barks, it was washed thoroughly with water to remove impurities present on the srface of bark
and dried. The dried eucalyptus barks were powdered.

2.5 SELECTION OF MORDANT

Terminalia chebula is a flowering evergreen tree native to Asia. The fruits of this tree are extensively used in traditional
medicine system. The pericarp of mature fruits of Harad tree constitutes the drug. They are rich in hydrolysable tannins
(pyrogallic) and very astringent and with good light fastness. The natural dyes have limited substantively for the fibre,
so natural dyes require use of mordants, which enhances the fixation of the natural colourant on the fibre by the
formation of the complex with the dye. Myrobalan is both tannin and a dye, giving warm soft gold yellow colour.
Myrobalon works well for over dyeing as well as a pre dye. Myrobalan seed is powdered for the study and is used as a
mordant.

2.6 PREPARATION OF NATURAL DYE

Dried powdered Eucalyptus bark, was used for the extraction of natural dye. For dyeing the Pique (P O), Interlock (IO)
knit cotton fabric required grams of eucalyptus bark powder was taken based on the weight of the Pique (P O) and
Interlock (IO) knit materials. The M:L ratio taken for extraction was 1:40. The dye solution was boiled at a temperature
of 1000C for one and half hours. The eucalyptus bark dye solution was filtered using a muslin material to remove
fragments of bark particles if present. The extracted natural viscose dye of eucalyptus bark was kept ready for further
process.

2.7 PRE-TREATMENT OF COTTON KNITTED MATERIALS

Scouring was given as pre-treatment to cotton knitted Pique (P O) and Interlock (IO) materials. The cotton knitted Pique
(PO) and Interlock (IO) materials was steeped into warm water with 10g of ariel soap powder for half-an-hour. After the
desired time, the material was taken out and excess liquor was drained out. Then the knit materials were rinsed in cold
water, dried in shade. The knitted cotton Pique (PO) and Interlock (IO) materials were ironed without any wrinkles for
dyeing process.
2.8 APPLICATION OF NATURAL DYE

The filtered viscose natural dye extracted from Eucalyptus bark was taken in M:L ratio of 1:20 (6%) for both Pique (P O)
and Interlock (IO) knit materials. To this natural dye liquor, required grams of myrobalan mordant powder (3%) was
added to the dye bath for simultaneous mordanting and stirred continuously without lumps. The cotton knitted Pique
(PO) and Interlock (IO) materials were pre-soaked in water for god absorbency. The extra water was squeezed out. The
Pique (PO) and Interlock (IO) knit materials were then steeped into the eucalyptus bark dye bath for dyeing. The dye bath
was boiled for half-an-hour at 50 o C - 600 C. After the required time, the Pique (P D) and Interlock (ID) knit materials
were taken, rinsed in cold water and dried in shade.

2.9 FABRIC TESTS

The original Pique (PO) and Interlock (IO) knitted and dyed Pique (PD) and Interlock (ID) knitted materials were
subjected to fabric tests such as fabric weight (ASTM D3776), Bursting strength (ISO 13938-2-2010), Drape (IHTM
21) and Pilling (ISO12945-2-2002). The colour fastness tests are also analyzed in dyed pique (P D) and interlock (ID)
cotton knit materials for sunlight (ISO 105 B02), washing (ISO 105 C06), perspiration (ISO 105 E04) and rubbing
(ISO-105-X12). The dyed knit fabrics were subjected to antibacterial test.

2.9.1 ANTI BACTERIAL TEST

The test fabrics PO (original-1), IO (original-2), PD (dyed-1) and ID (dyed-2) were analyzed for antibacterial testing using
the standard EN ISO-20645 test method. Antibacterial test was done to dyed Pique PD and Interlock ID materials.
Antibacterial qualitative evaluation was carried out. Test organism cultures micro-organisms used for the study are
Escherichia coli (gram negative) bacteria and S. aureus (gram positive) bacteria. E. coli (plate 5) was selected for its
resistance to common antimicrobial agents and S. Aureus (plate 6) is the major cause for cross infection and it is the
most frequently evaluated species. Using parallel streak method, antibacterial activity against gram-positive and gram
negative bacteria were tested using dyed Pique (PD), Interlock (ID) against original Pique (PO) Interlock (IO) knit
samples. Test specimens of PO (original-1), IO (original-2), PD (dyed-1) and ID (dyed-2) were cut into pieces (20mm in
diameter). Sterile AATCC bacteriostasis agar plates were prepared. Using sterile 4mm inoculating loop, one loop full
of bacterial culture was transferred by swabbing all around the surface of the agar plate and also covering the central
area of the petridish. The plates were incubated at 37 °C for 24 hours. The inoculated plates were examined for the
interruption of growth along the swabs of inoculum beneath the fabric and for a clear zone of inhibition beyond the
fabric edge. The zone of inhibition around the test specimen is calculated in mm. The result obtained from antibacterial
test is recorded under results and discussion in Table I.

Plate 5 Plate 6
ANTI BACTERIAL ACTIVITY AGAINST ANTI BACTERIAL ACTIVITY AGAINST
ESCHERICHIA COLI STAPHYLOCOCCUS AUREUS

2.10 CONSTRUCTION OF APPAREL

The original cotton pique (P O and PD) and interlock (IO and ID) knit materials was then converted to T-Shirt
for four years kid using sun burst tie and dye technique.

3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The results and discussion for the study is tabulated and discussed for the following tests:
3.1 ANALYSIS OF FABRIC WEIGHT

The average result for fabric weight of PO, IO, PD and ID pique and interlock cotton knit materials is shown in Figure
1.When compared within original and dyed pique and interlock knit materials from fig. 1, PD shows an increase in fabric
weight when compared to PO. Similarly, ID also shows an increase in fabric weight than I O. When compared between
original pique and interlock knit materials, I O shows increase in fabric weight when compared to P O. When compared
between dyed pique and interlock knit materials I D also shows an increase in fabric weight than P D. When compared
among the four PO, IO, PD and ID cotton knit materials, ID showed increase in fabric weight.

3.2 ANALYSIS OF BURSTING STRENGTH

The average result for bursting strength of PO, IO, PD and ID pique and interlock cotton knit materials is shown in Figure
2. When compared within original and dyed pique and interlock knit materials, from fig. 2, P O shows higher bursting
strength than PD. But ID reveled higher bursting strength than IO. When compared between original pique and interlock
knit materials, PO showed higher bursting strength than IO. Whereas when compared between dyed pique and interlock
knit materials, ID showed higher bursting strength than PD. When compared among the four PO, IO, PD and ID cotton knit
materials, ID showed best bursting strength.
FABRIC WEIGHT (gsm)

BURSTING STRENGTH
FABRIC WEIGHT BURSTING STRENGTH
2.3 350
2.2
2.1 Pique 300 PIQUE
2
Interlock INTERLOCK
1.9 250
Original Dyed ORIGINAL DYED
PIQUE AND INTERLOCK KNIT PIQUE AND INTERLOCK KNIT
MATERIALS MATERIALS

Fig. 1: FABRIC WEIGHT Fig. 2: BURSTING STRENGTH

3.3 ANALYSIS OF DRAPE

The drapability grade result obtained from pique and interlocks knit materials, reveals that when compared within and
between PO, IO, PD and ID shows similar satisfactory draping quality.

3.4 ANALYSIS OF PILLING

The pilling grade results obtained from pique and interlock knit materials from reveals that when compared within
original and dyed pique knit materials P D is satisfactory in pilling nature than P O. When compared within original and
dyed interlock knit materials, both I O and ID did not reveal good pilling nature. When compared between original and
dyed pique and interlock knit materials P D showed satisfactory in pilling. When compared among all the four cotton knit
materials PD revealed satisfactory pilling result.

3.5 ANALYSIS OF COLOUR FASTNESS TESTS

The colour fastness tests are analyzed in dyed pique (P D) and interlock (ID) cotton knit materials for sunlight, washing,
perspiration and rubbing.

3.5.1 ANALYSIS OF COLOUR FASTNESS TO SUNLIGHT

The result obtained for colour fastness to sunlight shows that the colour change when analyzed for the dyed
cotton knit pique (PD) and interlock (ID) materials when tested against sunlight showed slight change to (equal) no
change.

3.5.2 ANALYSIS OF COLOUR FASTNESS TO WASHING

The result shows that there is light colour change in the sample. When checked for staining the dyed cotton
knit pique and interlock materials showed no colour change and staining.
3.5.3 ANALYSIS OF COLOUR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

Perspiration is carried both in acid and alkaline medium. From, the result obtained for colour change and staining for
acid perspiration samples revels that there is satisfactory results (no colour change and staining) for both P D and ID knit
materials. In Alkaline medium, PD and ID knit samples showed no colour change but slight colour staining.

3.5.4 ANALYSIS OF COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING

Rubbing is carried both in dry and wet medium. From, the results for both dry and wet rubbing for P D and ID knit
samples showed satisfactory - no colour change and staining.

3.6 ANALYSIS OF ANTI BACTERIAL TEST

The result obtained for anti bacterial test for PO, IO, PD and ID cotton knit materials is recorded in Table I

Table I: ANTI BACTERIAL TEST

Zone of inhibition (mm)

S. No. Samples
Escherichia coli Staphylococcus aureus
1 Original-1 (PO) - -
2 Original-2( IO) - --
3 Dyed-1 (PD) 26 27
4 Dyed-2 (ID) 28 27

It is noted from table I, Antibacterial of the eucalyptus bark dye extract, original and dyed materials was tested against
gram negative (Escherichia coli) and gram positive (Staphylococcus aureus) bacterias. P D and ID indicates that the
eucalyptus bark dye extract resulted in a zone of inhibition of 26 mm in P D and 28 mm in ID for E.coli and 27 mm in
both PD and ID for staphylococcus aureus. The result clearly shows the eucalyptus bark dyed samples inhibits both
bacteria which proves that antimicrobial agent was successfully coated on pique and interlock cotton knit materials. The
PO and IO did not inhibit any of the bacterias. The presence of tannins and flavonoids in eucalyptus bark, both of which
exhibit antimicrobial activity, may have been responsible for the higher antibacterial activity of the eucalyptus bark dye
extract. Hence, it can be concluded that the eucalyptus dyed samples have good antibacterial activity against test
organisms Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus.

4. CONCULSION

Consumers benefit when they are not exposed to environmental toxins, such as heavy metals, pesticides and other
chemicals that are embedded in the fibers of conventionally produced textiles. It can be concluded from the present
study that the eucalyptus dye has good antibacterial activity. Hence, the eucalyptus dye material and apparels can be
used for green apparels. There is lack of awareness among people about eco fashion as the low efforts among retailers
or manufacturers to promote green goods and benefits thereof, failure of eco- labeling scheme in India, limited
information on production processes among consumers, availability of narrow range of green products in the market.
Therefore, it is necessary to create more awareness among consumers regarding eco fashion. More brands need to
launch into manufacturing of green fashion to cater to the demands of customers and for the benefit of both humans and
environment in the real scenario. So in near future if awareness is created among consumers then more natural dyed
material and apparels will be focused in the market.

5. REFERENCES

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6. CORRESPONDING ADDRESS

Name: K.PONNUSAMY
Designation: PG Research Scholar
Department of: Costume Design and Fashion
Institute Name: Chikkanna Govt. Arts College, Tiruppur-2, Tamil Nadu, India
E-Mail: ponnusamy2373@gmail.com

Name: Dr. JAYALAKSHMI.I

Designation: Assistant Professor
Department of: Costume Design and Fashion
Institute Name: Chikkanna Govt. Arts College, Tiruppur-2, Tamil Nadu, India
E-Mail: jayalakshmivijai@gmail.com