How to Perform In-Line Inspection Procedure

In-Line Inspection Procedure

This helps factory management and supervision to take necessary precautionary measures in a
proactive manner so that the root cause is identified, the problem is rectified and preventive
measures established to avoid future recurrence. This section provides basic guidelines on how to
conduct an In-Line Inspection report.

How to Perform In-Line Inspection Procedure

TYPES OF IN-LINE INSPECTION-

1st In-Line inspection mainly done in cutting room and sewing floor area
2nd In-Line inspection mainly done in sewing floor, washing plant, wrinkle free area, pressing and
poly bag packing areas.
TOP sample inspection.

WHEN AND HOW MUCH IN-LINE INSPECTION TO BE CONDUCTED?-

Ideally the 1st  In-Line Inspection Procedure should be conducted prior to completion of the first
couple of bundles from the sewing line. Usually rigid or un-pressed garments are selected for this
inspection.

 As a practice, a minimum of 20 completed or semi assembled garments must be inspected

in the sewing line by extracting from multiple bundles. AQL 2.5 tightened level criteria must be
used for pass/fail selection 
 At this stage, the product must be scrutinized closely and the in-line inspection report filled
with clarity and care. Remarks made under the comments section should be clear and thorough
for corrective action by factory supervision and management. 
 Where ever possible, digital pictures should be attached to an email message depending on
severity of the problem. 
 Send copies of the in-line inspection to the factory management, merchandising and quality
teams as well as Pei merchandising and quality team covering the same factory 

The 2nd in-line inspection must be conducted if the 1st In-line inspection is found to be poor and
below standard and where the QC feels a follow-up is needed. If this is the case, this inspection
must be done within two days of the 1st In-Line inspection preferably by the next day.

 As a practice, a minimum of 20 completed or semi assembled garments must be inspected

in the sewing line by extracting from multiple bundles. AQL 2.5 tightened level criteria must be
used for pass/fail selection
 At this stage, depending on the issues found during inspection, a detailed report must be
included in the in-line inspection report.
 Where ever possible, digital pictures should be attached to an email message depending on
severity of the problem.
 A call out to be made if a follow-up inspection is needed.
 Send copies of the  In-Line Inspection Procedure to the factory management, merchandising
and quality teams as well as Pei merchandising and quality team covering the same factory

TOP Sample Inspection must be done by a PEI QC and extracted either from a pilot lot or from initial
bulk production. In the absence of the PEI QC, the vendor QA Manager must take over the
ownership and must send the sample to the local PEI office technician for evaluation.

 The TOP sample must me checked for quality, measurement and labeling accuracy by PEI
QC. The measurement report must be documented using the Measurement Page from the
graded measurement page. No Other forms should be used for measurements.
 Sign and stamp on report and staple the report to the back of the TOP sample tag.
 Sign and stamp on the inside of the garment underneath the care label or inside pocketing
where ever visible.

RESPONSIBILITY-

Primarily the In-Line inspections must be done by every factory QA team producing garments for
Perry Ellis International (PEI). Factories must have trained personnel to perform these functions
irrelevant if there is a presence of PEI QC/QA representatives. Therefore the In-Line inspection is
primarily a factory responsibility.

In addition, PEI QA department deploys QA coverage based on geographical location, spread of

factories while also taking into consideration recent or past performance of each factory. They will
also perform random In-Line Inspection. It is of utmost importance, that factory management
provides full cooperation and support to PEI QC personnel when they visit their facilities to perform
In-Line Inspection.

PEI QA may gradually reduce the in-line inspection process based on type of product and based on
how the factory has performed in the past 12 months or based on the factory evaluation ranking.

HOW TO PERFORM PEI IN-LINE INSPECTION?-

The below section of this manual provides the inspector a guideline on how to perform a routine In-
Line Inspection and fill the  In-Line Inspection Procedure report correctly.

Use the approved format to fill findings during the In-Line Inspection.

The QC should put a check mark against YES or OK only if no issues were found for that area or
operation. A check mark should be placed against NO if issues were found in that area or operation.

For example- If PPS is available in the line or if shoulder pad quality & placement is correct, put a
check mark against YES.

On the other hand if trim card is not available or if shoulder seam attaching is poor then put a check
mark against NO.

INFORMATION OF THE STYLE-

 Fill the customer name, style #, PO# and Date of inspection.

 Fill Factory name, PO Qty, Delivery date and Cut quantity.
 Fill the Out Of Sew quantity, Washed quantity, Pressed quantity and Packed quantity.
 Leave the No. of garments inspected and measured information blank until the inspection is
completed

SAMPLE APPROVAL STATUS-

 Review if Pre-Production Sample (PPS) is available and have been approved at each stage.
If not, please communicate with PEI merchandiser and QA Manager as well as the factory
management.
 Review if Size set has been done based on local office QA team requirement
 Review TOP sample inspection date. If TOP is ready, begin TOP inspection process.

REFERENCE GUIDELINE STATUS-

 Review if PDM is available is most updated & translated into local language.
 Review if Trim Card is available and approved by responsible officer.
 Review if Hand / Wash standard is approved and reference is available.
 Review if Colors have been approved and colors used for cutting and sewing are matching
to approved standard.
 Review if reference PPS is available and approved by color/combo and approval tag along
with comment sheet is visually displayed at end of sewing line.
 Review if a Pressing standard has been set that it is visibly located near pressing area along
with approval tag.

FABRIC / TRIM / EMBELLISHMENT-

Using the check list on the left hand side related to this subject, prior to commencing inspecting in-
line by sewing operation; evaluate finished garments to verify fabric, trim and embellishment used on
the garments for all Quality and Placements.

This is done by cross checking the selected production garments against approved PPS and Trim
card. The Inspector must use the In-Line Inspection report under this topic for all check points. If
there are other types of trims that are not indicated on the  In-Line Inspection Procedure report
check list, then the inspector must make sure to add the name of such trim against the word ‘Other’.

MACHINERY & ENVIRONMENT-

Review condition as follows-

 Sewing floor is clean and appears to be swept regularly, while the lighting trunks are also
clean and lighting intensity is acceptable.
 Machines and tables are arranged properly and spacing is adequate, while bins and
inspection stations are adequate.
 Review if machineries, irons and under pressing tables / equipments are in good working
condition. E.g. - if machines table and head is clean, tables are free from sharp or rough edges;
motor belt is covered to avoid entangling of garment etc, In addition verifying safety practice, like
the use of needle guard, eye protector for high velocity machines such as button-hole and bar-
tack machines etc. 
 Verify if oil level within oil basin of sewing machines is adequate and clean while covers for
under pressing tables and hand irons are also clean. Always recommend factory management to
use oil free machines or while oil as it is non visible on most garment if spilled.
 Review if Needle quality / size are correct and that needle change procedure are in place.

OPERATIONAL CHECK LIST-

 Review how fabric rolls have been stored in warehouse and cutting area prior to spreading to
ensure that they are placed length wise and on pallets or racks.
 Based on fabrication, review if fabric has been relaxed for adequate time prior to spreading
on table. In the case of stretch fabric, verify if they have relaxed fabric overnight.
 Review marker to verify if pattern placement is correct in direction etc.
 Review if fabric face side, spread direction (nap/pile), as well as ply height is correct to
general requirements.
 Review if design, print, plaid or stripe is placed in such a way that matching requirements
can be achieved for bulk production.
 Review cut accuracy as well as notch placement are accurate using top, middle and bottom
ply matched against paper pattern for manual cutting and top marker paper for automatic cutting.
 Ensure cut panel bundles are prepared with care and placed in containers or bags prior to
transportation to sewing lines. If cut panels are stored in shelves or bins, ensure that they are
covered and free from contamination of dust and dirt. For fabric that has a fraying nature, ensure
that bundles are not tied and that it is packed flat and covered in plastic bags.
 Review if knitted panels against standard and block pattern to ensure that quality and shape
is correct. 
 Review if stretch and measurement of knitted panels are correct to specification.
 Continue to check through each and individual operation or processes using the check list of
the In-Line Inspection report as a guide. DO NOT FILL CHECK LIST IN MEETING ROOM.
 Fit a couple of garments on a mannequin or live person to ensure fit and aesthetic is
acceptable.

Ensure to follow the below steps when performing in-line inspection-

• Always use the approved PPS as a style reference guideline at all times.

• Check randomly that the needle quality and size are correct at different operations.

• Check randomly if the machineries are clean and there are no oil leaks.

• Ensure that factories are providing proper training to operators to handle critical operations, and
mock-ups of critical operation are established in agreement with the production and quality
supervision so that the sewing operator has a guide for self evaluation & QC purpose. Mock-up must
be displayed near respective sewing machine.

• Check in detail that the stitches per inch (SPI) at each operation are up to required specification.
This includes all internal and external stitching.

• Check all seams to ensure no open seams are found and that all seams are strong. Follow the
clock wise inspection method always when inspecting completed garments

• For fused parts, review and ensure that fusible interlining is well bonded with self fabric and that
factory is performing routine checks for temperature, pressure, speed and bond strength. Use of a
Newton Scale must be implemented to check bond strength.

• Review button-hole quality is up to standard, where stitch density and cleanliness of hole with a
sharp cut have been achieved. Fish tail should not be longer or shorter than the approved standard
by each brand.

• Review if button or hook & bar setting have been attached correctly and secured. Verify if lock
stitch machine was used on product using two or four hole buttons. Where necessary, ensure that
button shank thread has been whipped for safety, e.g. Jacket buttons, pant and shorts waist band
button.
• Review the cleanliness of garment and that all excess thread has been trimmed properly

• For washed product, review all wash standard, shade range etc, to ensure that pre-established
standards has been met.

• Inspect pressed garments to ensure that pressing standards has been met. This includes ensuring
that if leg creases are required, then the creases are sharp. Review if garments do not have shiny or
burnt marks. Ensure that factories are using Teflon shoes for hand irons.

• PEI QC to review in-line inspection reports made by factory QC as a comparison of findings. If

needed additional training to be provided.

• Upon completion of operation review, continue to inspect more completed including pressed
garments until satisfied. Record number of garments inspected and number of garments found with
defects along with type of defects.

• Make comments ensuring clarity summarizing what was found during the In-Line Inspection. Where
possible, take digital pictures and share with factory and QA team by email. Pictures should show
poor quality. Use additional blank sheet when needed.