Professional Documents
Culture Documents
by mechbioprinter
We are an undergrad-led research team at UC Davis. We are a part of BioInnovation Group, which operates in the
TEAM Molecular Prototyping and BioInnovation Lab (Advisers Dr. Marc Facciotti, and Andrew Yao, M.S.). The lab
brings together students of diverse backgrounds to work on this project (mech/chemical/biomed engineering).
A bit of background on this project is that we started printing transgenic rice cells in collab with Dr. Karen
McDonald of the ChemE department with the goal to develop a low-cost bioprinter to make bioprinting more
accessible to research institutions. Currently, low-end bioprinters cost approximately $10,000 while high-end
bioprinters cost approximately $170,000. In contrast, our printer can be built for approximately $375.
Supplies:
Parts:
Tools:
Lab supplies:
Software:
We chose the Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Printer printer but a similar process can be used to convert
V2 as the starting 3D printer. This printer was other common FDM printers and CNC machines.
selected because of its low cost and high availability.
Additionally, a highly accurate 3D model of the printer High accuracy model:
was already available which made design easier. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2681912
This instructable will be tailored for this specific
Step 2: 3D Printing
Before disassembly of the Monoprice printer, several parts need to be 3D printed for the modification of the 3D
printer. There are versions of the paste extruders, one that requires epoxy and one that doesn't. The one that
requires epoxy is more compact but more difficult to assemble.
The front tower panel, bottom cover and the control panel should be removed. Once the bottom has been
removed, disconnect all electronics from the control board and remove the control board.
Body 1 and Body 14 each require two heat set nuts. Body 1 is mounted to the printer frame by the two M3 bolts
hidden under the belt. The bolts can be revealed by removing the belt tensioner and pulling the belt to one side.
The Z-axis switch is repositioned so that any length needle can be used during the homing sequence without
compensating in the software. The switch should be mounted with 2 M3 screws to the printer chassis directly
under the printhead as close to the print bed as possible.
The wiring is done in accordance with the Ramps 1.4 standards. Simply follow the wiring diagram. Cut off and tin
wires as needed for the terminal blocks. Some wires may need to be extended.
While this extruder takes less time to print, it does appropriate T fitting couldn't be found so a crude one
use epoxy which increases the total build time to over was made from 6mm brass tubing and solder. The
24hrs. The 8mm threaded rod should be epoxied to extruder acts as a hydraulic system which pushes the
the 608 bearing and the bearing should be epoxied to Bioink out of the lower chamber of the 10 ml syringe.
the 3D printed piece Body 21. Additionally, the nut for Air can be evacuated out of the system by vigorously
the threaded rod should be epoxied to Body 40. Once shaking the tubes while holding the T fitting at the
the epoxy has been fully cured, the rubber tips from highest point.
the 60ml and 10 ml syringe plungers can be fitted
over Body 9 and Body 21, respectively. An
This extruder can simply be bolted together. The downside to this extruder is that it is bulkier and has high
backlash.
The Arduino needs firmware to run the stepper drivers and other electronics. We chose Marlin as it is free, easily
modified with Arduino IDE and well supported. We have modified the firmware for our specific hardware but it is
quite simple to modify for other printers because all the code is commented and clearly explained. Double click the
MonopriceV2BioprinterFirmware.ino file to open the marlin configuration files.
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FCS/OMYB/K2WL2FVE/FCSOMYBK2WL2FVE.zip
…
The Cura profile can be imported into Ultimaker Cura 4.0.0 and used to make high surface area meshes for use in
a profusion reactor. The generation of Gcode for the printer is still highly experimental and requires much patience.
Also attached is a test gcode for a circular profusion reactor.
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FY5/VV0W/K28Z667C/FY5VV0WK28Z667C.zip
…
G1 Z15
G28
G1 Z20 F3000
G92 Z33.7
G90
M82
G92 E0
The process for developing a Bioink suitable for an application is complex. This is the process that we followed:
Summary
The hydrogel is suitable for shear-sensitive plant cells and has open macropores to allow diffusion. The hydrogel is
made by dissolving agarose, alginate, methylcellulose, and sucrose in deionized water and adding cells. The gel is
viscous until it is cured with 0.1M calcium chloride, which makes it sturdy. The calcium chloride curing solution
cross-links with the alginate to make it sturdy. The alginate is the base of the gel, the methylcellulose homogenizes
the gel, and the agarose provides more structure since it gels at room temperature. The sucrose provides food for
the cells to continue to grow in the hydrogel.
We tested different hydrogels with varying amounts of agarose and recorded its consistency, how easily it printed,
and whether it sank or floated in the curing solution. Decreasing the alginate percentage made the gel too liquidy
and it was not able to keep its shape after printing. Increasing the alginate percentage made the curing solution
work so quickly, that the gel would cure before sticking to the top layer. A hydrogel that holds its shape and doesn’t
cure too quickly was developed using 2.8 wt% alginate.
Materials
Agarose (0.9 wt %)
Alginate (2.8 wt %)
ddH20
1 Mixing Spatula
Aluminum Foil
Graduated Cylinder
Procedure
2. The hydrogel solution will contain Alginate (2.8 wt %)), Agarose(0.9 wt %), sucrose (3 wt%), and
methylcellulose (3 wt%). Proper portions of the components of the hydrogel solution will be
measured using the plastic weigh paper.
3. When finished weighing out all components, add ddh20, sucrose, agarose, and lastly sodium
alginate to one of the dry beakers. Swirl to mix but do not use a spatula to mix because the powder
will stick to the spatula.
4. Once mixed, wrap the top of the beaker with aluminum foil properly and label the beaker. Add a
piece of autoclave tape to the top of the foil.
5. Put the remaining methylcellulose into the other dry beaker and wrap it in aluminum foil like the
previous beaker. Label this beaker and add a piece of autoclave tape to the top of the foil.
6. Wrap 1 spatula in aluminum foil and make sure none of it is exposed. Add autoclave tape to the
wrapped spatula.
7. Autoclave the 2 beakers and 1 spatula at 121 C for 20 minutes during the sterilize cycle. DO NOT
USE THE AUTOCLAVE IN A STERILE & DRY CYCLE.
8. Once the autoclave cycle is complete, allow the gel to cool down to room temperature and once it
has reached it, start operating in the Biological Safety Cabinet.
9. Make sure to wash your hands and arms and use proper aseptic technique once operating in the
biosafety cabinet. Also MAKE SURE to not come into direct contact with objects that will touch the
gel or be close to the gel (ex: the mixing end of the spatula, or the region of the aluminum foils that
sits over the gel)
10. In the biosafety cabinet mix the methylcellulose into the gel to get homogenous spreading. Once
done mixing, rewrap the top the mixed gel solution and place in the fridge overnight.
11. From here the gel can be used for introduction of the cells or for other uses like printing.
1. Lightly scrape the cells off the petri dish and use a 380 micrometer sieve to filter the
cells.
2. Gently mix the filtered cells in the hydrogel solution using a flat head spatula to avoid loss of the
mixture (that have been autoclaved).
4. From here the hydrogel is complete and can be used for printing, curing, and future experiments.
Materials
Calcium chloride
ddH20
Sucrose (3 wt %)
3. Submerge the gel in the curing solution for at least 10 minutes to cure.
In theory, Bioprinting is extremely simple; however, in practice, there are many factors that can cause failures.
With this gel, we have found that several things can be done to maximize success for our application:
1. Use small amounts of CaCl2 solution to partially cure the gel while printing,
2. Use a paper towel at the bottom of the petri dish to increase adhesion
3. Use a paper towel to evenly spread small amounts of CaCl2 over the whole print
4. use flowrate slider in Repetier to find correct flowrate
For different applications and different gels, different techniques may need to be used. Our procedure was
generated over several months. Patience is key.
Good luck if you attempt this project and feel free to ask any questions.