Oil removal

 salicylic acid
 glycolic acid
 beta-hydroxy acid
 benzoyl peroxide

These acids may be irritating to some skin types. When starting a new
product, use it on a small area of skin first to see how the body reacts.

Choosing the right facial cleansers may work well for some people. A 2015
study found that a mild facial cleanser made with sodium laureth carboxylate
and alkyl carboxylates was effective for tackling moderate facial acne,
although it increased sebum production in some areas of the face.

For many people who simply have oily skin and not acne vulgaris, fragrance-
free glycerin soap and hot water may do the trick.

Moisture
Occlusives. Petrolatum and the other oily substances in moisturizers are sometimes
referred to as occlusives because they block the evaporation of water. Despite all the
elaborate variations in moisturizers, petrolatum is still a mainstay and is often named
third or fourth in the ingredient list. Many fatty or waxy substances can serve as
occlusives. The commonly used ones include cetyl alcohol (a fatty alcohol), lanolin,
lecithin, mineral oil, paraffin, and stearic acid. Dimethicone and cyclomethicone are
silicones that function as occlusives. When products say they are oil-free, that usually
means they don't contain mineral or vegetable oil and depend on dimethicone as an
occlusive instead. The Aveeno products tout their "natural" oatmeal content, but in
some varieties, the only active ingredient listed is dimethicone. The effectiveness of the
occlusives varies. Petrolatum is the best at holding in water, followed by lanolin, mineral
oil, and the silicones.

Humectants. Theoretically, humectants pull water into the stratum corneum both from
the air and from deeper layers of the skin. However, when the humidity is low, there's so
little water in the air that almost all of the water comes from the inside out. Some of the
commonly used humectants include glycerin, honey, panthenol (or vitamin B 5, an
example of a vitamin being used for its physical, not nutritional, properties), sorbitol
(which we are used to seeing as an artificial sweetener), and urea. Humectants can
potentially make skin even drier by pulling water into a damaged, arid stratum corneum
that doesn't hold moisturizer. So, as a practical matter, they are almost always used
with occlusive ingredients that trap the moisture the humectants draw into the stratum
corneum.

Emollients. Emollients aren't in moisturizers to moisturize, but rather to make the skin

feel smooth. Many ingredients that serve as occlusives — dimethicone is a good
example — and humectants do double duty as emollients. Because of rubbing alcohol
(isopropyl alcohol), we tend to think of alcohols as drying — and out of place in
moisturizers. But some alcohols (octyldodecanol, for example) are excellent emollients.

Vitamins. Topical retinoic acid — a form of vitamin A — reduces fine lines and wrinkles
in the skin by stimulating the production of collagen and is the main ingredient in
prescription antiwrinkle creams. But the vitamin A used in some moisturizers is retinyl
palmitate, which has the virtue of being a very stable molecule but isn't nearly as
biologically active as retinoic acid. It's unlikely that retinyl palmitate in the amounts found
in moisturizers has much, if any, effect on collagen and wrinkles. If retinyl palmitate has
a benefit, it may be as a humectant.

Vitamin C, usually under the name ascorbic acid, and vitamin E, usually as tocopheryl
acetate, are added because of their antioxidant properties. Studies of topical vitamin C
have shown some effects, but in high concentrations. Doubts linger about its usefulness
in moisturizers because light and oxygen inactivate the vitamin C. Vitamin E as
tocopheryl acetate is biologically inactive and probably functions mainly as a
preservative.

Menthol. Moisturizers that bill themselves as itch remedies like Sarna often contain
menthol. Although menthol doesn't attack the underlying problem, the familiar cooling
sensation does seem to cancel out the itching sensation.

Lactic acid. Skin over the heel can get especially thick, leathery, and dry. Try using a
pumice stone or callus file to get rid of the outer layers of skin and then using a
moisturizer like AmLactin to soften it up. AmLactin, an over-the-counter lotion, is 12%
lactic acid, a heavy-duty humectant that can also loosen up adhesions so heel skin
becomes more flexible and less likely to crack. Sometimes products containing lactic
acid sting.
 whitening
 Arbutin – Arbutin is a naturally derived additive which comes from pears,
cranberries, mulberries and blueberry bushes. Arbutin has been shown to inhibit
melanin production.
 Kojic Acid – Kojic acid is another naturally derived whitening agent. It comes
from Japanese rice. It’s a good whitening agent but breaks down quickly in
daylight. You may see it in some skin serums sold in light-protective containers.
It’s better used as an evening / night-time treatment.
 Azelaic Acid – Like Kojic acid, Azelaic acid is extracted from natural grains such
as wheat, barley and rye. Azelaic acid is also an excellent treatment against acne.
It’s also partially effective in treating discolored skin or inconsistencies in
pigmentation. Research has shown that Azelaic acid is effective in inhibiting the
production of melanin by the skin’s melanocytes.
 Glutathione – Unlike the plant-derived extracts above, glutathione already
exists in your body. It can be chemically synthesized at higher concentrations.
Glutathioneand has been shown to inhibit melanin production in the skin.
Glutathione also protects the skin from UV radiation and is a natural anti-oxidant.

Soap making

This Simple & Gentle Cold Process Soap is the perfect project for somebody who has never made
cold process soap before!
Serves: 2-3 pounds of soap

Ingredients
 8 oz. Coconut Oil (24%)

 15 oz. Olive Oil (44%)

 11 oz. Palm Oil (32%)

 4.8 oz. Lye

 11.2 oz. Distilled Water

Instructions
Prepare your Mold: For this recipe, we are going to use a box rather than a mold. To turn any
box into a soap making mold, it first needs to be lined with freezer paper. Freezer paper is
heavy duty and durable, and has one side that is shiny. This side needs to be facing up.
Learn how to line molds including recycled boxes in this blog post.
Set Up Your Area: Before soaping, it’s helpful to have your soaping area prepared before you
start. While soaping, you don’t want to be running around looking for a spatula or whisk!
Because this recipe does not have any complicated designs, the tools are minimal. But you
will need your fully lined mold, prepared lye water, pre-mixed oils, stick blender, and a
spatula. Check out the Soapy Session Preparation and Setup Guide for tips.
SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! That means goggles, gloves and long
sleeves. Make sure kids, pets, and other distractions and tripping hazards are out of the
house or don’t have access to your soaping space. Always soap in a well-ventilated area.
1. ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully

dissolved and the liquid is clear. Set aside to cool.

2. Combine the coconut oil, olive oil and palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire

container of palm oil before portioning). Allow the lye water and the oils to cool to 130 degrees

or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other). For this recipe, both the oils and lye

were around 120 degrees. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold,

you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per

pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add about 2 tsp. sodium lactate.

3. Place your stick blender into the oils. Gently tap the blender on the bottom of the bowl

several times to release any bubbles that got trapped by the stick blender head. This is called,

“burping the stick blender.”

4. Once bubbles are no longer rising to the surface of the oils, gentle pour the cooled lye water

down the shaft of the stick blender and into the oils.

5. Turn on the stick blender and pulse several times. You will immediately see the lye and oils

begin to come together, and begin to create a creamy yellow color. Alternate between using the

stick blender to stir the mixture, and pulsing the stick blender. After about 30 seconds, test for

trace. Because this recipe contains a large amount of olive oil, it will stay at a thin trace longer

than recipes with fast moving oils such as butters.

6. As you continue to pulse and stir with the stick blender, you may notice the soap starting to

lighten in color. It will also start to become thicker. Below is a good example of medium trace.
 The soap is thick enough to support the trailings and drops on the surface. It’s slightly thinner

than pudding. This is a great consistency!

7. Once your soap has reached medium trace, pour it into the mold until all the soap is in the

mold. Scrape the sides of the bowl to ensure you get every last bit of soap!

8. Once the soap is all poured into the mold, firmly tap the box on the counter. Doing so will

help bubbles within the soap to come to the surface. Make sure you still have your goggles on!

Sometimes soap can jump up during this process =)

9. Spray the top of the soap with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Doing so helps to avoid soda ash from

forming. Allow the soap to sit in the mold for 3-4 days. Unmold, and cut into bars. Allow the

soap to cure for 4-6 weeks. During this time, water evaporates from the soap making it firmer

and longer lasting in the shower. The soap can be used before the full cure time, but will not last

as long. It's best to wait!