WAVE- HEIGHT PREDICTION

FOR WAVE GENERATORS

IN SHALLOW WATER

by

Cyril J. Galvin, Jr.

TECHNICAL MEMORANDUM N0.4

March 1964

Material contained herein is public property and not subject to copyright. Reprint or re-publication of any
of this material shall give appropriate crP.dit to U.S.Army Coastal Engineering Research Center

LIMITED FREE DISTRIBUTION OF THIS PUBLICATION WITHIN THE UNITED STATES IS MADE BY THE U. S.AR MY
COASTAL ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER 5201 LITTLE FALLS ROAD. N. W., WASHINGTON D. C. 20016
 FOREWORD

In laboratory investigations of water waves, it is necessary

to control the water depth, and the period and height of the waves.
Although the required water depth and wave period are fixed directly
and simply, the required wave height must usually be obtained by
trial and error. The increasing number of laboratory wave studies,
which has accompanied the recently stimulated interest in oceano-
graphy, makes it desirable to have a more direct way of predicting
wave height.

The approximate wave-generator theory presented in this report

predicts directly the eccentricity setting needed on the generator
to achieve required heights of waves in relative water depths typical
of most laboratory investigations. This theory, an application of
the fundamental principle of conservation of mass, is in fair agree-
ment with data obtained from six wave generators of widely different
size and form, and, for the relative depths typical of laboratory
practice, it agrees with the more complete hydrodynamic theory of
wave generators. Because the approximate theory makes use of the
wave length predicted by small-amplitude wave theory, then, to the
extent that it agrees with the data, it is also another verification
of the validity of small-amplitude theory.

The report was prepared at the Coastal Engineering Research

Center and is based on an idea developed while the author was a
Research Assistant at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Hydrodynamics Laboratory. The author, Cyril J. Galvin, Jr. is
currently an Oceanographer in the Research Division of the Coastal
Engineering Research Center.

This report is published under authority of Public Law 166,

79th Congress, approved July 31, 1945, as supplemented by Public
Law 172, 88th Congress, approved November 7, 1963.
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

LIST OF SYMBOLS ii

ABSTRACT 1

INTRODUCTION 1

SIMPLIFIED THEORY 2

Theoretical background 2
Simplified wave-generator theory 2

COMPARISON WITH COMPLETE LINEAR WAVE-GENERATOR 1HEORY 5

COMPARISON WITH DATA 6

Sources of data 6
Experimental conditions 15

VALIDITY OF ASSUMPTIONS 16

Small-amplitude assumption 16
Shallow-water assumption 17
Wave-height measurement 17
Reflection. 17
Wave form . 17

APPLICATION TO THE DESIGN OF EXPERI~ffiNTS. 19

CONCLUSIONS 19

Summary. 19
Suggestions for futher research. 20

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS. 20

REFERENCES. 21
 LIST OF SYMBOLS

Symbol Definition Dimension

a wave amplitude, one-half the wave height [LJ

b half-width of base of prismatic plunger [LJ

c wave speed [LT-l]

d mean water depth [LJ

2
g acceleration due to gravity, 32.2 ft/sec [LT- 2]

h mean depth of submergence of prismatic plunger [LJ

H wave height, vertical distance from crest to [LJ

trough

K H/S in hydrodynamic theory of piston-type wave

generator

K' H/S in hydrodynamic theory of flap-type wave

generator

L wave length

2
deep-water wave length, 5.12T

r radius of cylindrical plunger

s stroke of wave generator, distance between

extreme positions occupied by wave generator
in complete cycle

T wave period

X horizontal distance along mean water surface

angle between front face of prismatic plunger

and the vertical

TT 3.14 .. 0

ii
 WAVE-HEIGHT PREDICTION FOR WAVE GENERATORS IN SHALLOW WATER
by
Cyril J: Galvin, Jr.
Oceanographer, Research Division
Coastal Engineering Research Center

ABSTRACT

The height of waves generated by displacement type wave

generators in shallow water is approximately equal to 2TIS/L
times an appropriate dimension of the wave generator. S is
the stroke of the wave generator, L is the wave length given
by small-amplitude theory, and the wave generator dimension
is measured perpendicular to S. This relation agrees with
the hydrodynamic theory for piston and flap-type wave gene-
rators over the range of relative depths usually used in
coastal engineering experiments, and it agrees with data from
four piston-type and two plunger-type wave generators for
depths satisfying the condition (2Tid/L) < 1. This method of
wave-height prediction can shorten the time spent on many
coastal engineering experiments.

INTRODUCTION

Most laboratory investigations of water waves by engineers and

geologists examine some aspect of the interaction between waves and'a
shoreline. This is true, for example, of studies as widely different
in purpose as investigations of sediment sorting, breakwater efficiency,
wave runup, or tsunami refraction. Thus, almost by definition, the waves
of interest are shallow-water waves (depth d relatively small compared
with wave length L).

The amount of energy which waves bring to the shorelirie, and the
water-particle velocity induced by the wave near the solid bed are critical
factors in this interaction, and both energy and water-particle velocity
depend sensitively on the wave height. Thus, in the design of laboratory
equipment, and in the design of experiments, it is useful to be able to
predict the wave height which can be generated under given shallow-water
conditions.

The purpose of this report is to present a simple approximate method

of computing wave heights generated by a wave generator in shallow water
and to show that this approximation agrees with hydrodynamic theory and
most laboratory data. For these purposes a wave generator is a rigid body
which generates waves by displacing a volume of water with a periodic,
approximately sinusoidal motion. For reasons to be explained, shallow
2
water is defined by the relation ~d < 1 (which is equivale~t to I< 0.16
or L~ < 0.12, but larger than the usual shallow-water limit~< 0.05).
 SIMPLIFIED THEORY

Theoretical background. The linearized (small-amplitude) theory for

shallow-water waves assumes that the pressure beneath the wave form is
everywhere hydrostatic; from this it follows that the horizontal water-
particle velocity, u, is a constant over the depth of the fluid and vertical
particle velocity, v, is small and varies directly as the particle elevation
above the bottom (Stokes, 1849). The theory predicts that the waves will
propagate unchanged in shape through water of constant depth and that, for
the simplest periodic solution, wave shape is that of a pure sine wave.
The hydrodynamic theory of wave generators (Biesel, 1951; Havelock, 1929),
employing the same order of approximation as linear shallow-water theory,
further predicts that a rationally designed wave generator (smooth shape,
sinusoidal motion) will produce, within a short distance from the generator,
waves nearly devoid of higher harmonic disturbances (Biesel, 1951, p. 32).

Experimental evidence exists verifying the linear theory for waves

which satisfy the small-amplitude assumptions (Ursell, Dean, and Yu, 1958).

Simplified wave-generator theory. A simple theory for predicting the

wave height produced by a wave generator in shallow water is possible based
on these conceptions of wave motion. A single, small, forward motion of a
wave generator (for example, the piston-type wave generator of Figure 1)
displaces a volume of water. The resulting disturbance is constrained,
according to C = ~ = ~~. to travel at a known speed, and thus the volume
displaced in the small motion cannot instantly be distributed over the en-
tire wave channel. Instead, the volume is stored above the mean water level
by the vertical elongation of the column of water in front of the piston.
(Because u is a constant over the depth in linear shallow-water theory, each
vertical column of water remains a vertical column throughout tQe entire
wave motion.)

Now, for periodic motion satisfying the usual shallow-water limit of

d < 0.05, the volume displaced in half a period by the piston as it travels
L
forward over the entire rength of its stroke will be stored above mean water
level in the positive half of a sine wave traveling away from the piston
with speed C (see Figure 1). By equating the volume displaced by the piston
in half a period (1) to the elevated volume in half a wave length (2), there
results a relation (3) in which amplitude is the only unknown.

Volume displaced by piston in half-period = Sd (1)

J
L/2 211
Elevated volume in half wave
.
length =o a sin--
L
x dx = 1laL (2)

21ld
H = 2a = - L S (3)

2
 >-
0::
0
w
:c
1-
0::
0
~
0::
w
z
w
(.!)
w
~
3:
w
1-
<(
~
X
0
0::
0..
0..
<(
0::
0
l.L.
"'0
(f)
z
0
1-
z
(/) l..L
w
0
-.
w
0::
::::>
(.!)
l.L.
3
 s

PISTON FLAP

.,l::.
r-----7
I I
I I

--------~I
h
I

1
I
s \., ___ ----// is
//77/////7/77/7///////7///7777
CYLINDRICAL PLUNGER

FfGURE 2. TYPES OF WAVE GENERATORS

 Knowing period T and depth d, the wave length L can be obtained from
2TTd
tables (Wiegel, 1954) which contain the convenient factor L . By equating
volumes displaced by other types of wave generators (see Figure 2), similar
relations are obtained which can be written in the following dimensionless
forms:
H 2TT d
s = L
piston and flap (4)

H 2TT
s = L
r cylindrical plunger (5)

s
H
= -c
2TT
(b + h tan a) prismatic plunger (6)

H 2TT
It is a common characteristic of these equations that S equals L
multiplied by an appropriate distance normal to S. S for flap-type wave
generators is the mean horizontal excursion of the flap.

In deriving equation (5), it is assumed that two equal wave trains,

traveling in opposite directions, are generated by the vertical motion of
the piston. In deriving equation (6), it is assumed that the elevated
volume in one-half a wave traveling away from the inclined front face of
the plunger (to the right in Figure 2) equals the volume displaced by the
triangular segment of the plunger plus one-half the volume displaced by
the rectangular segment of width 2b. The other half of the volume dis-
placed by the rectangular segment is assumed to be displaced to the rear
(to the left) of the plunger and not to affect the measured wave.

Although particle motion in the immediate vicinity of a plunger-type

wave generator is complicated, it is observed that smooth waves are pro-
duced only a short distance away; therefore, equating volumes may be a
reasonable approximation,

COMPARISON WITH COMPLETE LINEAR WAVE GENERATOR THEORY

Linear hydrodynamic theory yields the following equations for piston

(7) and flap-type (8) wave generators (Biesel, 1951, pp, 23, 28):

. h2 2TTd
2 S1n
H L
K =s = (7)
sinh 2TTd cosh T
2TTd
+
2TTd
-L
T
. 2TTd 2TTd
2TTd . h 2TTd )
H
4 s1nh - -
L
(1 - cosh L L · + - - S1n
-L-
K' =s = 2TTd 2TTd 2TTd
(8)

L
( .
s1nh L
2TTd
cosh +
L L
)

5
 2TTd 2TTd 2TTd 2TTd
As -y- gets small, sinh -r- approaches-r-and cosh -y- approaches 1.
Substituting these limits in (7) for piston-type wave generators

H 2TTd 2TTd
s L for small - (9)
L
In order to retain terms of the same order in the numerator of (8), it is
2TTd
necessary to include second-order terms in the approximation for cosh -y-.
With cosh
2TTd
L . [ 1
approx1mated by _1 + 2
2TTd 2
(L) J, equation (8) approaches the
same limit given by equation (9). Thus, the complete hydrodynamic theory
gives the same results for piston and flap-type wave generators in shallow
water as does the simplified theory.
. 2TTd
It is now of interest to see what is meant by "small L ". A com-
parison of equations (7) and (8) with equation (4) (see Figure 3) indicates
2TTd
an unexpectedly large limit for "small -y- ". It appears from inspection
2TTd d
that~= 1 or L ~ 0.16, is a convenient upper limit to the validity

of the approximation for a piston-type wave generator and is a conservative

upper limit for the flap-type wave generator. This definition of shallow
2TTd
water, L < 1, includes the usually defined range of shallow water,
d
or
I < 0.05, as well as much of the transition range between

shallow and deep water, TT or 0.5 > L

d
> 0.05.

COMPARISON WITH DATA

Source of data. Data exist enabling a comparison between approximate

theory and experiment for the types of wave generators shown in Figure 2.
These data are plotted in the dimensionless terms of equations (4), (5),
and (6) on Figures 4, 5, and 6. The data are compiled in Tables 1 to 3 and
pertinent aspects of the experimental equipment and procedure are listed in
Table 4. None of the data was obtained specifically for the purpose of
verifying the approximate wave generator theory presented in this report.

The data presented on Figure 4 represent all reduced data known to the
writer for piston-type wave generators operating under the shallow-water
2TTd
conditions of this report (~ < 1). Other unreduced data are available
at the Coastal Engineering Research Center. Data from the Center's 635-foot
and 72-foot tanks were obtained from tests to calibrate these tanks for
desired wave heights. Data from the Center's 96-foot tank were obtained in
a continuing study of the maximum height-to-depth ratio of breaking waves.

6
 1
10 .-------------------,-------------------~------------------~

K~

I0°r-------------------+-----------~----~~------------------~

K
Kl
27Td
L

10 1 r-----------------~~------------------,_ __________________~

sinh 27Td cosh 27Td + 27Td

L L L

sinh
2
~d 1-cosh 2 7Td + 2 7Td sinh 2 7Td
L L L
Eqn. (8) 1
= J::L =
K
s 4
27Td sinh 2 7Td cosh 2 7Td t 27T'd
-L- L L L

10 ~------------------~------------------~------------------~
2

2
10- I 0-l 10 ° 10 1
27Td
L

FIGURE 3. COMPARISON OF APPROXIMATE AND COMPLETE HYDRODYNAMIC

THEORIES FOR PISTON AND FLAP-TYPE WAVE GENERATORS

7
 v·
1/
o. 9 1----<'---
LEGEND

I/
·o 635- foot tank C.E.R.C.
96 - foot tank C.E.R.C
0.8 f - - 1 - - - 72 - foot tank C.E.R.C.

• I 00- foot tank M.I.T. Ursell, Dean, Yu. ( 1958)

o1 ~--+---+---~--~--~---r---r---+---+---+--~--~--~~~/~~.--~~~--~--+---+----
1/0

o.6 ~--+----1---~---r---r---r---r---r---+---+---+--~~~~~~--~--~---b---+---+---+--~
1/
cy ~
~--r---r~-~-r---r-~~
1
/~+~~+-~-+~~

I/·
~ o.5 ~--+---+---~---r--~---r---r---r---+---~~-+---+--~--~--~~--~--~--+---+-~

oc~/
0.4 -·--·-- ·-·------ - --·--+---- _[7lL '--t----1-J-----,i--+-i--+-1-------l--J.-......l---.J

0.3 I/ "-·
~ = t
2

/
Piston d

0.2 ~--+---+---4\/---JL--.~--~--~---+---+---+--

1/:~
0.1 ~--+~---~~-+----1----1~--1----1----+---+---+--

J/ 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0

FIGURE 4. COMPARISON OF APPROXIMATE THEORY AND TEST DATA

FOR PISTON- TYPE GENERATOR

8
 17
1.0

17
17
0.9

I/
1/
0.8

0.7
,J£7 /
Vs
w2b
v
v
////T/7/7///7//7//7//7//7////// 0
0.6
0 Prismatic Plunger

IX •
~ ( b t h tan a l = 1:!...
L S

I/•
~ 0.5

I/
[7
0.4

I;/
1/
0.3

-\c)-
I/
I/
0.2

/////7//7////T//T//T/7//T////7/

I/ • Cylindrical Plunger

:1:!...
!/
0.1 ~r
s

v
L
I I I

I
I I I

I I
I

0
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0
. 27T 27T
L r , ""L ( b + h ton a l

FIGURE 5. COMPARISON OF APPROXIMATE THEORY AND TEST DATA

FOR PLUNGER- TYPE GENERATOR

9
4.0

lL
lL
v
3.6

\/ v
25 I
I

3.2

L(
v
d

v
////// '/// ''//

2.8 J:L = 2rr d

Flap
S L

v
1 - - - -1 - Data from La Houille Blanche- Dec. 1952

v
2.4

v
- -1 - - _g

*
2.0
1---

v
0

1.6

[7
v 0
€}--
§
0 0
0

L
v
0

1.2 1--
g

v
0
l,ffi_
ti

v
0
0.8

v
1/
0.4

0
v
0 0.4 0.8 1.2 1.6 2.0 2.4 2.6
.
3.2 3.6
¥-d
4,0

FIGURE 6. COMPARISON OF APPROXIMATE THEORY AND TEST DATA

FOR FLAP - TYPE GENERATOR

10
 TABLE 1

TEST DATA FOR PISTON-TYPE WAVE GENERATORS

Run d T s H 2TTd H/S

No. (ft) (sec) (ft) (ft) L

CERC 635-foot tank

14.5 6.0 3.25 2.30 0.77 0.71
8.0 3.25 1.75 0.55 0.54
11.0 3.25 1.30 0.39 0.40
8.0 6.25 3.55 0.55 0.57
11.0 6.25 2.60 0.39 0.42
6.0 6.25 4.70 0.77 0.75
6.0 6.75 5.30 0.77 0.79
8.0 6.75 3.85 0.55 0.57
11.0 6.75 2.85 0.39 0.42

CERC 96-foot tank

1a 0.50 2.00 0.17 0.061 0.40 0.36
1b 2.00 0.34 0.140 0.40 0.41
1c 2.00 0.51 0.138 0.40 0.27
3b 5.20 0.34 0.042 0.15 0.12
3c 5.20 0.51 0.068 0.15 0.13
3d 5.20 0.68 0.096 0.15 0.14
3e 5.20 0.85 0.122 0.15 0.14
3£ 5.20 1.02 0.144 0.15 0.14

CERC 72-foot tank

1.14 2.01 0.282 0.15 0.624 0.532
0.403 0.225 0.558
0.503 0.30 0.596

MIT 100-foot tank

1 2.01 3.23 0.186 0.088 0.51 0.47
14 1.58 1.63 0.074 0.069 0.97 0.93
15 1.57 2.09 0.068 0.046 0.72 0.68
16 0.63 3.67 0.157 0.027 0.24 0.17

II
 TABLE 2

TEST DATA FOR PLUNGER-TYPE WAVE GENERATORS

Run d T s H 2Tid 2TI H

No. (ft) (sec) (ft) (ft) L L (b+htanQI)
s
MIT Harbor Model Basin, Prismatic Plunger

2 1.15 1.00 0.267 0.192 1.55. 0.74 0.72

3 1.125 0.267 0.167 1.29 0.62 0.63
4 1.25 0.267 0.143 1.12 0.53 0.54
5 1.375 0.267 0.121 0.99 0.47 0.45
6 1,50 0.267 0.106 0.89 0.42 0.40
7 1.25 0.10 0.05 1.12 0.53 0.50
8 1.25 0.15 0.098 1.12 0.53 0.65
9 1.25 0.20 0.124 1.12 0.53 0.62
10 1.25 0.25 0.130 1.12 0.53 0.52
11 1.25 0.30 0.157 1.12 0.53 0.52
16 1.00 0.30 0.213 1.55 0.74 0. 71

MIT 100-ft. Tank, Circular Cylindrical Plunger

2TT
yr

8* 0,875 1.19 0.106 0.030 0.99 0.28 0.28

9* 1.61 0.106 0.021 0.69 0.20 0.19
10* 2.01 0.106 0.015 0.54 0·.15 0.14

1** 2,00 0.106 0.035 0.54 0.31 0,33

2** 1.79 0.106 0.037 0.61 0.35 0.35
3** 1.35 0.106 0.047 0.85 0.49 0.44
4** 1.19 0.086 0.047 1.00 0.57 0.54

* From Table 3, p. 50, Yu and Ursel1 (1960)

** From Table 4, p. 51, Yu and Ursell (1960)

12
 TABLE 3

TEST DATA FOR FLAP-TYPE WAVE GENERATOR

Neyrpic Hydraulics Laboratory

d T s H 2TTd H
(ft) (sec) (ft) (ft) T s
1.97 0.92 0.318 0.486 2.87 1.53
0.246 0.515 2.09
0.171 0.381 2.23
0.098 0.223 2.28

1.08 0.587 0.659 2.28 1.12

0.469 0.705 1.50
0.394 0.673 1.71
0.318 0.571 1. 80
0.243 0.440 1.81
0.171 0.285 1.67
0.098 0.171 1'. 74

1.32 0.472 0.673 1.91 1.43

0.394 0.532 1. 35
0.322 0.397 1.23
0.171 0.285 1. 67
0.098 0.125 1.,28

1.54 0.630 0.637 1.68 1.01

0.587 0.558 0.95
0.472 0.476 1.01
0.394 0.397 1.01
0.318 0.328 1.03
0.243 0.249 1.02
0.171 0.167 0.98
0.098 0.082 0.84

13
 TABLE 4
EXPERIMENTAL CONDITIONS

Wave Generator Wave Gages Distance from Generator Reflection Reference

Piston CERC Staff gage 247 feet (visual) Measurement before

635-foot tank Electronic relay 100 feet (electronic) reflection; 1st
gage through 5th waves
Piston CERC 1/8" diameter 3 & 9 feet from piston, Measurement before
96-foot tank stainless steel average of two positions reflection.
resistance gages

Piston CERC l/8"'diameter 20 feet Measurement before

72-foot tank stainless steel reflection; average
resistance gages of 5 to 10 waves
beginning with third.

Piston MIT Hook & point about 15 feet. Height computed from Ursell, Dean and
.::. 100-foot tank gage envelope of incident Yu, 1958, p. 19
and reflected waves.

Cylindrical plunger Platinum-wire 13 to 20 feet. Height computed from Yu and Ursell,

MIT 100-foot tank resistance gages envelope of incident 1960,· p. 32.
r =0.25, 0.50 foot and reflected waves.

Prismatic plunge~ 0.035-inch 3 to 4 feet. Repeats of Measurement before

MIT Hbr.Mod. Basin Pla tinum-\vire runs 2, 4, 6, and 11 varied reflection; average
b = 0.14 foot resistance gages less than 2%. For run 4, of 3rd through lOth
Q! = 28.5° gage placed in 5 different wave.
h = 0. 75 fo.ot positions along and away
from front of plunger.
Range of variation of heights
at the 5 positions was 7% of
mean.

Flap (Neyrpic) Not knmvn Not knmm Not known Anonymous, 1952
p. 53.
 The data presented for the Massachusetts Institute of Technology piston
wave generator were obtained in an experimental study by Ursell, Dean, and
Yu (1958) which verified the essential correctness of equation (7) for deep,
intermediate, and shallow-water waves.

Data plotted on Figure 5 were obtained from a theoretical and experi-

mental study of waves generated by a half-immersed oscillating cylinder
(Yu, 1959: Yu and Ursell, 1960), and from an experimental study of long-
shore currents which used a prismatic plunger-type wave generator.

Data for a flap-type wave generator plotted on Figure 6 were obtained

graphically from Biesel (1951, p. 88).

Experimental conditions. Table 4 summarizes pertinent information

about the experimental conditions which produced the data plotted on
Figures 4, 5, 6. Four types of wave gages were used: (1) a staff gage
graduated in tenths of a foot in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's
635-foot tank with piston-type wave generator; (2) an electronic relay gage
with a precision of 0.1 foot in the 635-foot tank; (3) a combination hook
and point gage in the 100-foot tank with piston-type wave generator at M.I.T;
and (4) wire resistance gages in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's
72 and 96-foot tanks with piston-type wave generators, and the 100-foot tank
and harbor model basin at M.I.T. with, respectively, cylindrical and pris-
matic plunger-type wave generators.

The characteristics of the platinum-wire resistance gage used with the

cylindrical plunger have been studied by Dean (1959) and a variation of this
gage was used to measure wave heights generated by the prismatic ~lunger.
The step-type relay gage was developed at the Coastal Engineering Research
Center by Leo C. Williams. In the 635-foot tank, the staff and the relay
gages, 147 feet apart, recorded the heights of the same waves with an average
difference of less than 0.2 foot for each of twelve runs. The average height
of the twelve runs by the visual method differed only by 0.03 foot from the
average height of the twelve runs by the electronic method.

Distance from the wave generator to the wave gage in the different
tests varied from 3 to 247 feet (see Table 4). The shortest distance was
approximately three times the depth, a distance at which secondary disturb-
ances, even when produced by a non-ideal wave generator (one whose motion
does not approximate the water-particle motion), are expected to have become
negligible (Biesel, 1951, p. 30).

The lack of agreement with theory for the experiments with the flap-
type wave generator and the good agreement with theory for the experiments
with the prismatic plunger are both rather surpr1s1ng. Ursell, et al,
(1958, p. 1) were unable to suggest a convincing reason for the discrepancy
found by the Neyrpic group for the flap-type wave generator. Apparently no
one has since experimented with flap-type wave generators for the purpose
of checking the theory. Although, for the experiments with the flap-type

15
 2Tid
generator,~ ranges between 1.6 and 3.0, the range of fair agreement be-
tween approximate theory and the more complete hydrodynamic theory should
2ru
extend up to a -y- near 2.5 for flap-type generators, as shown by the curve
for K' on Figure 3. Because so little is known of the experiments with the
flap-type generator, they will not be considered further.

The good agreement for the prismatic plunger is surprising, for there
was a fender extending part way into the water immediately behind the verti-
2
cal rear face of the plunger. ~~ for the data on Figure 5 ranges up
Also
2Tid
to 1.55 and only two points fall below the shallow-water range of -y- < 1.0
defined on the basis of hydrodynamic theory for piston-type wave generators.

VALIDITY OF ASSUMPTIONS

In the simplified wave-generator theory, as well as the more complete

theory of Havelock, the following assumptions are necessary:

(1) Waves are small-amplitude waves,

(2) Wave height, water depth, and period are
measured accurately,
(3) Measured wave height is corrected for reflection.

Because the simplified theory is a shallow-water theory, a fourth assump-

tion is necessary:

(4) d/L is sufficiently small.

If the first assumption is fulfilled, the wave form should be sinus-

oidal, and verification of this prediction is an additional check on the
validity of the assumptions.

Small-amplitude assumption. To be able to use small-amplitude theory

to find Lin equations (4), (5), and (6), it is necessary that all wave
motions be small. This is so if H/L and H/d are small enough that the
squares of these ratios can be neglected.

H/L ranged from 0.0015 to 0.07 and H/d from 0.017 to 0.37, but neither
of these quantities correlate with deviation of measurement from theory,
Theory-Measurement
----~=~------------, in any given set of experiments. There is possibly a
Theory
slight inverse correlation between H/L and deviation where data for all the
piston-type generators are compared, but nothing indicates that such error
that does exist is easily correlated with departure from small-amplitude
assumptions.

16
 Shallow-water assumption. The simplified theory is developed for
2Tid TI
conditions which obtain with a high degree df accuracy when~ . <
10
The more complete hydrodynamic wave-generator theory is in good agreement
with simplified theory for piston-type wave generators up to a limit about
2Tid
three times greater than this usual limit, that is, up to~ near 1, and
2Tid
the agreement extends to even larger values of ~ for flap-type generators
(see Figure 3). All of the data from the piston-type generators, as well
2
as the data from the cylindrical plunger, satisfy the limit ~d ~ 1. The
2~
data from the prismatic plunger ranges up to---= 1.55, and the data from
L
the flap-type generator range even higher, but not much outside the region
in which fair agreement is theoretically expected.

Wave-height measurement. It was pointed out in the discussion of

experimental conditions that the agreement between visual and electonic
methods of measuring large wave heights was good, and that platinum wire
resistance gages used in some of the studies are known to be reliable.
However, error may be introduced in the measurement of small waves due to
the increasing effect of surface tension which may produce an inverting
meniscus about the wires. This may explain the inverse relation which
exists between deviation and absolute value of H measured in experiments
in the J2-foot and 96-foot tanks at the Coastal Engineering Research Center,
and in the delicate experiments of Yu with a cylindrical plunger iri th~
100-foot tank at M.I.T. (see Tables 1 and 2).

Most probably, measurements of water depth and wave period are suf-
ficiently accurate for purposes of this study.

Reflection. Theory accounts only for the wave train moving away from
the wave generator. The effect of waves reflected from the opposite end
of the tank was eliminated in all but two of these studies by measuring
only the initial waves before the reflected waves had traveled back from
the end of the tank (see Table 4). In the remaining studies (Ursell, Dean,
and Yu, 1958; Yu and Ursell, 1960), reflection was eliminated by analysis
of the wave envelope after steady state had been reached.

Wave form. No attempt was made to compare quantitatively the recorded

shape of the wave with the sinusoidal shape predicted by theory. However,
the recorded profiles of waves produced by the pris~atic plunger appeared
to be sinusoidal on visual inspection, as did profiles recorded near the
piston in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's 96-foot tank. In the
latter case, because the profiles were recorded on curvilinear recording
paper, the wave form was compared visually with an electronically generated
sine wave with the same wave length and similar amplitude, recorded on the
same recorder.

17
 6

H= 27Td S
5 L
d = 14.5 ft.

-
LL.
Q)
Q)

c:

-
-g.3
-
()) I
Q)

Q)
>
c
3

0 ~--------~--------~--------~--------~--------~--------~--------~--------~------~
0 I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Stroke { 2 x Eccentricity ) , in Feet

FIGURE 7. APPLICATION OF APPROXIMATE THEORY TO WAVE-HEIGHT

PREDICTION IN C.E.R.C. 635-FOOT TANK

r
 Most steep waves were more sinusoidal near the generator and developed
the flat troughs and peaked crests as they moved away from the generator.
Often steep waves developed one or more secondary waves which traveled on
the primary wave form with slower speeds than the primary wave.

APPLICATION TO THE DESIGN OF EXPERIMENTS

The simplified wave-generator theory presented in this report is most

applicable to the design of experiments. For many coastal engineering
purposes, a specific wave height is required in a given experiment. Wave
height is a function of the depth, period, and stroke of the wave genera tor,
and experimental requirements usually demand frequent changes in one or more
of these variables. Efficient experimental technique requires that, previous
to conducting experiments, the tank be calibrated, that is, the proper com-
bination of variables giving the required wave heights are found by trial
and error, aided by experience.

Tank calibration is expensive in man-hours and in delay of experiments.

A typical calibration in the 635-foot tank at the Coastal Engineering Re-
search Center lasts one week and requires the full time effort of at least one
man and the part time efforts of several others, including a crane operator.
To save time, the simplified theory (equation (4)) could be plotted for the
desired depth in a form having wave height H and stroke S (or eccentricity E)
on the axes and period T as a parameter. Figure 7 is an example of such
a plot for use in the 635-foot tank. Such plots can be assembled easily
in a few hours with help of tables, even for an extensive testing program~
Once having the curves on such a plot, the predictions should still be spot
checked, but the overall time for tank calibrations would be greatly reduced
by having a rational way of predicting wave heights.

The theory may be similarly applied to the design of new wave genera tors.
The simplified theory might also be applied to l~arn something of the gene-
ration of tsunamis if they are caused by displacements of the ocean floor.

CONCLUSIONS

Su~~~~- The following six points summarize the principal results

regarding wave generators presented in this report:

(1) The height of waves generated in shallow water by rigid,

-r-
displacement-type wave generators approximately equa 1 s 2TIS t.1mes an
appropriate length of the generator measured in a direct1on normal to
the stroke S;

(2) This simplified theory is readily adapted to the design of

experiments in coastal engineering, especially experiments with very large
equipment;

19
 (3)
The simplified theory agrees with the more complete hydro-
dynamic theory of piston and flap-type generators for values of 2 Tid up to
L
1 or more;

(4) The simplified theory agrees fairly well with data from four
different piston-type generators and two plunger-type generators for a wide
range of experimental conditions;

(5) There is a puzzling lack of agreement with the only available

set of data for flap-type generators; and

(6) There is no obvious correlation between the degree of agree-

ment and I-I/L, H/d, or 2Tid/L, but inverse correlation exists between the
degree of agreement and H for small H.

Suggestions for future research. Experiments should be run with flap-

type wave generators to test both the complete and simplified theories. The
disagreement between theory and the existing set of data is anomalous.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The author is especially indebted to R. G. Dean who pointed out the

applicability of Yu's data, the limitation of the theory to shallow-water
conditions, and the proof that equation (9) is a limit for equation (8).
Professors R. R. Shrock and P. S. Eagleson permitted use of unpublished
data collected with the aid of R. L. Bernstein at M.I.T. Hydrodynamics
Laboratory. K. K. Wong and A. W. Barnett discussed earlier versions of
this work at M.I.T. G. W. Simmons supplied data for the 635-foot and 72-
foot tanks at the Coastal Engineering Research Center, and L. J. Meyerle
assisted in measurements in the 96-foot tank and preparation of the data.
The report has benefited from the encouragement and criticism of Thorndike
Saville, Jr. at the Coastal Engineering Research Center.

20
 REFERENCES

Anonymous (a group of engineers at the Neyrpic Hydraulics Laboratory),

1952, Laboratory wave-generating apparatus from the user's viewpoint;
La Houille Blanche, No. 5, pp. 723-737. (Page references in text
refer to translation by Meir Pilch published in:Laboratory Wave-
generating Apparatus, St. Anthony Falls Hydraulic Laboratory Report
No. 39, 1954.)

Biesel, F., 1951, A theoretical study of a certain type of wave generator;

La Houille Blanche, No. 4, pp. 475-496. (Page references in text
refer to translation of Meir Pilch published in:Laboratory Wave-
generating Apparatus, St. Anthony Falls Hydraulic Laboratory Report
No. 39, 1954.)

Dean, R. G., 1959, Interaction of a fixed semi-immersed circular cylinder

with a train of surface waves; doctoral thesis, MIT Dept. of Civil
Engineering.

Galvin, C. J., 1963, Experimental and theoretical study of longshore cur-

rents on a plane beach; unpublished doctoral thesis, MIT Dept. of
Geology and Geophysics.

Havelock, T. H., 1929, Forced surface waves on water; Phil. Mag., s. 7,

v. 8, pp. 569-576.

Stokes, G. G., 1849, On waves; Cambridge and Dublin Mathematical Journal,

v. 4, p. 219 (reprinted in Mathematical and Physical Papers, v. 2,
pp. 221-242, Cambridge U. Press, Cambridge, 1883).

Ursell, F., R. G. Dean, and Y. S. Yu, 1958, Forced small-amplitude water

waves: a comparison of theory and experiment; MIT Hydrodynamics
Laboratory Technical Report No. 29, 33 pp.

Ursell, F., R. G. Dea~ and Y.S. Yu, 1959, Forced small-amplitude water
Waves: a comparison of theory and experiment; J. Fluid Mechanics
v. 7, PP. 33-52.
Wiegel, R. L., 1954, Gravity Waves, Tables of Functions; Council on Wave
Research, Berkeley, California, 30 pp.

Yu, Y. s., 1960, Surface waves generated by an oscillating circular cylinder

in shallow water; doctoral thesis, MIT Dept of Civil Engineering.

Yu, Y. S., and F. Ursell, 1960, Surface waves generated by an oscillating

circular cylinder in shallow water; MIT Technical Report No. 40,
81 pp.
Yu, Y. S., and F. Ursell, 1961, Surface waves generated by an oscillating
circular cylinder on water of finite depth: Theory and experiment;
J. Fluid Mechanics, v. 11, pp. 529-551.

21
U.S. ARMY COASTAL ENGRG. RES. CENTER, CE., WASH., D.C. 1. Wave Generators
2. Wave Height
WAVE-HEIGHT PREDICTION FOR WAVE GENERATORS IN Determination
SHALLOW WATER by Dr. Cyril J. Galvin, Jr. 3. Shallow-water
M3.rch 1964, 21 pp., 4 tables, 7 illus. Waves
4.
TEO!NICAL MEMORANDUM No. 4 UNCLASSIFIED I Galvin, C.J. Jr.
II Title
A simple method of computing wave heights generated by displacement-
type mechanical wave generators in shallow water based on approximate
theory is presented. It is shown that the height of waves generated is
approximately equal to 2TIS/L times an appropriate linear dimension of
the generator measured normal to the stroke S. This relation is shown
to agree •dth hydrodynamic theory for piston and flap-type generators
and with actual measured data from four piston-type and two plunger-
type generators o£ widely different character, for the range of relative
depth usually encountered in laboratory practice, 2Tid/L < 1.
U.S. ARMY COASTAL ENGRG. RES. CENTER, CE., WASH., D.C. 1. Wave Generators
2. Wave Height
WAVE-HEIGHT PREDICTION FOR WAVE GENERATORS IN Determination
SHALLOW WATER by Dr. Cyril J. Galvin, .Jr. 3. Shallow-water
March 1964, 21 pp., 4 tables, 7 illus. Waves
4.
TECHNICAL MEMORANDUM No. 4 UNCLASSIFIED I Galvin, C.J. Jr.
II Title
A simple method of computing wave heights generated by displacement-
type mechanical ••ave generators in shallow water based on approximate
theory is presented. It is shown that the height of waves generated is
approximately equal to 2TIS/L times an appropriate linear dimension of
the genera tor measured normal to the stroke S. This relation is shO\m
to agree with hydrodynamic theory for piston and flap-type generators
and with actual measured data from four piston-type and t»o plunger-type
generators of widely different character, for the range of relative
depth usually encountered in laboratory practice, 2Tid/L < 1.
U.S. ARMY COASTAL ENGRG. RES. CENTER, CE., WASH., D.C. 1. Wave Gen~rators
2. Wave Height
WAVE-HEIGHT PREDICTION FOR WAVE GENERATORS IN Determination
SHALLOW WATER by Dr. Cyril J. Galvin, Jr. 3. Shallow-water
March 1964, 21 pp., 4 t~bles, 7 illua. Waves
4.
TEC"riNICAL MEMORANDUM No. 4 UNCLASSIFIED I Galvin, C.J. Jr.
II Title
A simple method of computing wave heights generated by displacement-
type mechanical wave generators in shallow water based on approximate
theory is presented. It is shown that the height of waves generated is
approximately equal to 2TISIL times an appropriate linear dimension of
the genera tor measured normal to the stroke S. This relation is sho•·n
to agree with hydrodynamic theory for piston and flap-type generators
and with actual measured data from four piston-type and two plunger-type
generators of widely different character, for the range of relative
depth usually encounter~d in laboratory practice, 2Tid/L < 1.
U.S. ARMY COASTAL ENGRG. RES. CENTER, CE., WASH., D.C. 1. Wave Generators
2. Wave Height
WAVE-HEIGHT PRE DICTION FOR WAVE GENERATORS IN Determination
SHALLOW WATER by Dr. Cyril J. Galvin, Jr. 3. Shallow-water
March 1964, 21 pp., 4 tables, 7 illus. Waves
4.
TECHNICAL MEMORANDUM No. 4 UNCLASSIFIED I Galvin, C.J. Jr.
II Title
A simple method of computing wave heights generated by displacement-
type mechanical wave generators in shallow water based on approximate
theory is presented. It is shown that the height of waves generated is
approximately equal to 2TIS/L times an appropriate linear dimension of
the generator measured normal to the strokeS. This relation is shown
to agree with hydrodynamic theory for piston and flap-type generators
and with actual measured data from four piston-type and two plunger-type
generators of widely different character, for· the range of relative
depth usually encountered in laboratory practice, 2Tid/L < 1.