J. D.

Birla Institute
11, Lower Rawdon Street, Kolkata-700020

Department of
Textile Science, Clothing and Fashion Studies

APPAREL CONSTRUCTION- WOMEN’S WEAR

(TCFS406P)

Name of Faculty:
Ms. Samita Gupta
Asst. Professor-III and HOD

Name of Signature of Signature of

Student Internal Examiner External Examiner
(with date) (with date)
Class 2nd year B.Sc.(Hons.) in Textile
Science, Clothing and Fashion
Studies, Semester IV
Class Roll
No.

College Seal
 CONTENTS
Sl No. Topic Pg No. Signature of Faculty

1. Basic Torso Sloper

2. Basic Sleeve Sloper
3. Salwar
4. Churidar
5. Princessline Kurta
6. Sari Blouse
7. Nighty
8. Basic Skirt Sloper

9. Circular Skirt
10. Low-waisted Skirt

11. High- waisted Skirt

12. A-line Skirt

13. Flared Skirt

14. 6-Gore Flared skirt

15. Skirt with Yoke

16. Tiered Skirt

17. Wrap Skirt

18. Inverted Box Pleated Skirt

19. Basic Waistband

20. Basic Trouser Sloper

21. Culotte

22. Pant with Flared Legs

23. Capri

24. House Coat

25. Katori-cut Blouse

BACK FRONT

Basic Torso Sloper

 BASIC TORSO SLOPER

MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:

Length of Front
Length of Back
Round Neck
Round Bust
Round Waist
Round Hip
Shoulder to bust point
Distance between bust points
Shoulder length
Across Front
Across Back
R. Bust – R. Waist
Key measurement =
12

BACK
1. Draw a straight line AB to measure ½ hip girth + 3cms.
2. From A and B measure up 20cms and name the points as D and C respectively.
3. Join C and D.
4. From D measure ¼ bust girth along CD and name the point as G.
5. From D and G draw perpendiculars such that DE = GF = length of back. Join E and F.
6. From E towards D, measure 1.5 cm, 1/10th length of back and ½ length of back and
name the points as H, I and J respectively.
7. Draw perpendiculars from I and J on GF and name the points as I’ and K.
8. From E, towards F, measure 1/5th neck girth minus 0.2 cm and name the point as L.
Join H and L with a smooth curve.
9. From L measure the shoulder length (LO) such that O falls on II’.
10. From J, measure ½ across back on JK and name the point as N. drop a perpendicular
from N on II’, naming the point as M.
11. Find the mid-point of MN and name the point as P.
 12. Join O, P and K with smooth curve (join O and P with a straight line. From P to K
mark a deep curve as shown).
13. From K on KG, measure 4cms and name the point as Q.
14. From G on GD, measure 1 key measurement and name the point as R. Join Q and R
with a straight line.
15. Find the mid-point of DR and name the point as S.
16. From S drop a perpendicular, meeting JK at T. the perpendicular is also extended on
the other side, such that SU = [SU= 2/3rd ST] AND SX= 15cms.
17. On either side of S, measure 1 key measurement and name the point as V and W. Join U, V, X and
W.

FRONT
1. From C, measure 1/4th bust girth + 3cms along CD and name the point (28)
2. From C and (28) drop a perpendicular such that (28) (2) = C-(1) = length of front.
Join (2) and (1).
3. From (2) towards (28), measure 1/10th length of back and name the point as (3)
4. From (3) towards (28) again measure 1/10th length of back and name the point as (5).
5. From (3) drop a perpendicular on C-(1) and name the point as (4).
6. From (1) along (1) (2), measure 1/5th neck girth minus 0.05cm and name the point as
(7).
7. From (1) along C-(1) measure 1/5th neck girth and name the point as (6). Join (7) and
(6) with a smooth curve.
8. From (7) measure the shoulder length in such a way that (8) falls on (3) (4).
9. From (10) measure ½ the distance between bust points and ½ across front and name
the points as (12) and (11) respectively.
10. From (12) drop a perpendicular on (1) (2) and on AB from (11) drop a perpendicular
on (3) (4) and name the point as (29).
11. From (13) measure shoulder to bust point on (13) (12) and name the point as (14).
12. From (5) draw a line passing through (29), such that it is equal to (13) (8) and name
the point as (15).
13. Join (14) and (15) and extend it to (16) such that (14)-(16)= (14)-(13).
14. Join (16) and (5).
15. From (16) measure a distance equal to (5)-(15) and name the point as (17).
16. Find the mid-point of (30)-(12) and number the point as (18).
17. Drop a perpendicular from (18) on (11)-(29) and number the point as (19).
18. From (14) on (14)-(16), measure a distance equal to (14)-(18) and number the point
as (20).
19. From (20) drop a perpendicular such that (20)-(21) = (18)-(19).
20. Join (17) and (21) with a straight line and join (21) and (9) with a deep curve as
shown.
21. From (22) on either side measure 1 key measurement and name the points as (24) and
(25).
22. From (22) towards AB, measure a distance equal to (22)-(14) and name the point as
(23). Join (14), (24), (23) and (25).
23. From (9) on (9)-(28) measure 4cms and number the point as (26).
24. From (28) on C1 measure 1 key measurement and number the point as (27).
25. Join (26) and (27) with a straight line.
26. Find out the mid-point of G-(28) and name the point as Y. drop a perpendicular from
Y on AB and name the point as Z. join R and Z. Join (27) and Z.
Basic Sleeve Sloper
 BASIC SLEEVE SLOPER

MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED:
Sleeve Length
Armhole girth (from basic torso sloper)
Bicep
Wrist

METHOD
1. Take paper length = sleeve length and width = armhole girth minus 1/5th armhole
girth.
2. Fold the width of the paper, keeping the fold on the left hand side, name it ABCD.
3. From C, measure ½ of AC and mark the point as E.
4. Draw a perpendicular from E and name the point as F.
5. Join AE and divide it into 4 equal parts i.e. AH = HG = GI = IE.
6. From H and I drop perpendiculars an AC and EF respectively and name the points as
J and K respectively.
7. Divide HJ and IK into 3 equal parts and name the points as 1, 2, 1’ and 2’ as shown in
the diagram.
8. Join A, 2, I and E for the back armhole and A, 1, G, 2’ and E for the front armhole
curve.
9. From B on BD, measure ½ wrist girth or sleeve opening and name the point as L.
10. Join E and L.
Salwar
 SALWAR

MEASUREMENTS
Length of salwar (waist to floor)
Hip girth
Yoke length (waist to hip)
Bottom opening
Fork length = 1/3rd hip girth

METHOD
1. Fold the fabric width into half. Name it as ABCD.
2. From C measure fork length minus yoke length + 6cms on CD and name the point as
G. From B, measure the same length on AB and name point as H.
3. From G and H drop perpendiculars, 6cms long towards AB and CD respectively and
name the points I and J respectively.
4. From G measure 4cms on GC and name the point as E. Similarly from H, measure
4cms on HB and name the point as F.
5. Join J and I with a straight line..
6. Join F and J, E and I with a smooth curve. Cut fabric at BD.
7. On open width mark 2 pieces of the following dimensions.
Length = AH = GD.
Width = (bottom opening – 6) + seam allowance (3).
8. Then mark the yoke.
Length = (yoke length + turning for band) + seam allowance
Width = Hip girth + 15cms + seam allowance.
9. cut facing for the bottom opening
Length = 6cms or as desired.
Width = bottom opening +8cms.
10. mark out the drawstring
Length = salwar waist +20 to 30cms.
Width = 2cms.

AMOUNT OF FABRIC REQUIRED

Length AB + PR as measured from draft.
Churidar
 CHURIDAR

MEASUREMENTS
Waist to ankle
Waist to knee
Waist to calf
Yoke length (waist to hip) 20 cms
Hip girth
Knee girth
Calf girth
Bottom opening girth

METHOD
1. Fold the paper. On the fold mark
AG = Waist to knee length minus yoke length
AH = Waist to calf length minus yoke length
AI = Waist to ankle length minus yoke length
IB = as desired for churis
2. draw perpendicular line from A, G, H, I and B
3. AC = 1/3rd hip girth + 2.5cms
4. CF = 1/3rd hip girth minus yoke length
5. GJ = ½ knee girth + 2.5cms
6. HK = ½ calf girth + 2.5cms
7. IL = BM =1/2 bottom opening + 1.5cms
8. Join F, J, K, L and M with a smooth curve.
9. Yoke
Length = (yoke length (20) + turning for band (3.5)) + seam allowance (1.5)
Width = Hip girth + 20cms + seam allowance.
10. Mark the draw string
Length = churidar waist + 20 to 30cms.
Width = 2.5 cms.

AMOUNT OF FABRIC REQUIRED

LENGTH = 2 to 2.5mtrs. Depending on the amount of churis required.
 E’ E E’
I I
I F I
G G
F’
F’

H
H’
H’
K K K

M L M L

N N N

P’ Q’
D O B D’ D O P Q
O B

Princess-line kurta
 PRINCESSLINE KURTA

MEASUREMENTS
Length of kurta
Neck depth
Sleeve length
Sleeve opening
Hem circumference
Armhole girth (as measured from kurta)

METHOD
1. Trace the front and back torso sloper. Add required length as desired. Mark as BD.
Note that the length added below the hip level should be same for front and back.
2. Mark the new neckline for front and back. Making sure shoulder length of front and
back match.
3. Increase armhole. Go down from H by 2cms and out by the same amount and mark
the point as H’.
4. From H’ mark the new side seam parallel to the original.
Front
5. Shift the shoulder dart to the centre of the shoulder.
6. From the waist dart draw a line straight down to the hem. Mark as O.
7. cut the pattern out from F’ E’ I K L N O B F for the centre panel.
8. Cut side panel as I G H’ D O N M K I.
9. From O add the calculated amount of flare mark as P. OP= additional amount for
flare. Join P to Q.
10. Measure length ON on line NP from N and mark as P’. Blend P’ to O.
11. Add the same amount of flare from O to Q and D to D’ on the side panel. Join Q to N
and D’ to the side seam. Measure length ON on NQ from N and mark point as Q’.
blend Q’ to O. raise D’ by the same amount as QQ’ and blend hemline.
Back
12. Follow the same instructions for the back. Ensuring that the amount of flare added is
such that the total hem width of back should be equal to total front hem width.
Sleeve
 13. Measure the armhole girth of the kurta pattern and draft the sleeve according to this
measurement.

AMOUNT OF FABRIC REQUIRED

2(length of kurta + seam allowance) + sleeve length + extra for straightening and facings.

STEPS IN MAKING UP
1. Join the panels for front and back.
2. Join the shoulder seam.
3. Stitch underarm seam till the level of the slit.
4. Stitch the underarm seam of the sleeves.
5. Sew the sleeves into the armhole.
6. Finish the neckline with either a shaped facing, bias facing of bias binding as desired.
7. Finish hem and slits.
Sari Blouse (front)
 SARI BLOUSE

MEASUREMENTS
Length of blouse
Sleeve length
Sleeve opening
Armhole girth

METHOD
Front
1. Cut out the hip portion of the block.
2. Mark the 1/3rd armhole position and join the point to 14 with a straight line. Similarly
drop a perpendicular from 14 on 6-B, cut along these lines.
3. Close the shoulder dart and dispose it equally to the 1/3rd armhole position and the
centre front horizontal dart.
4. Subtract the length of the blouse from the back length of the basic block. Reduce the
front and back block by the same amount.
5. Reshape the neckline as desired. For a scooped neckline lower the shoulder from the
neck point by 0.5cm.
6. on the new neckline, mark a point 0.5 cm away from the centre front line. Join the
point to the centre front horizontal dart with a straight line as shown in the diagram.
7. Measure the back and front waistline on the draft excluding the darts. Subtract the
actual waist from the above value. Divide the resulting value by 6. Increase the front
waist dart on both side and the side seam by this amount (curve the waist dart).
8. From 14 mark a distance 2.5cms on each dart (i.e. armhole, waist and centre front
horizontal). Reshape the darts as shown in the figure.
9. Increase the armhole by going out by 1cm and down by the same amount.
Sari Blouse (back)
 Back
10. Cut out the hip portion of the back.
11. Increase the armhole in the same way as done for the back.
12. Reduce the length of back by subtracting the length of blouse from it.
13. Reshape the neckline as desired, matching the front and the back shoulder.
Placket
14. Facing
Length = length of centre front + seam allowance
Width = 3.5cms
15. projection
Length = length of centre front + seam allowance
Width = 6cms

AMOUNT OF FABRIC REQUIRED

2(length of blouse + seam allowance) + sleeve length + extra for straightening and facings.
Nighty
 NIGHTY

MEASUREMENTS
Length of night dress
Hem width
Yoke length

METHOD
1. Trace the front and back torso sloper. Add required length as desired. Mark as BD.
Note that the length added below the hip level should be same for front and back.
2. Mark the new neckline for front and back, keeping Front & Back shoulders together.
Making sure shoulder length of front and back match.
3. Mark and cut the yoke for front and back. Fold shoulder dart for front before marking
and cutting.
4. To the skirt from centre line (CF & CB) add 5cms for gathers and mark the points as I
and K. GI = CJ = 5cms. Join I to J with a straight line and mark as new centre line
(CF & CB) on fold.
5. Add required flare to the hem and mark the point as D’. Join D’ to H with a straight
line.
6. Raise D’ and blend hemline.
7. Repeat the same instructions for the back, ensuring that the hem width of front and
back is equal (the amount added for gathers may differ).

AMOUNT OF FABRIC REQUIRED

2(length of skirt + seam allowance) + yoke width + extra for straightening.
If yoke is long then
2(length of skirt + seam allowance + yoke width) + extra for straightening.
 BASIC SKIRT SLOPER

MEASUREMENTS

Waist girth
Front Waist= 1/4 waist + 1/4"
Back Waist= ¼ waist + 1/4”
Hip girth
Waist to hip
Waist to knee

METHOD

0-1 = waist to knee. Square out on either side of 1

0-2 = waist to hip. Square out on either side on 2
2-3 = ¼ hip. Square up to 4 and down to 5
2-6 = ¼ hip + ½ inch. Square up to 7 and down to 8
9 from 0 move 1 inch and up ¼ inch. Join 9 to 2 with a smooth curve.
10 from 0 move 1 inch and up ¼ inch. Join 10 to 2 with a smooth curve.
Front darts:
Total intake = 4-9 minus front waist + ¼ inch ease. Divide the total intake into 2 darts such
that one of the dart is ½ inch.
4-11 = 3 inch
11-12 = ½ inch
13 is midpoint of 11-12
15 is midpoint of 9-12. 13-14 is 3 inches.
15-16 =15-17 = ½ dart intake
15-18 = 4inches
Back waist darts:
Total dart intake = 7-10 minus back waist + ¼ inch ease. Divide into 2 equal darts.
7-19 = 3 inches
19-20 = one dart intake. 21 is midpoint of 19-20
21-22 = 6 inches
23 is midpoint of 20-10
23-24 = 23-25 = ½ of second dart intake
23-26 = 6 inches
BASIC SKIRT SLOPER
 CIRCULAR SKIRT

The method is based on drawing of circles.

For waistline
Radius (R) = 2/3 of Aa,
where Aa= 1/4th of round waist.

For hemline
Radius = R + ab (length of skirt).

The pattern produced is always quarter circle.

 CIRCULAR SKIRT

LOW-WAISTED SKIRT
Trace front and back skirt patterns.

Measure down from waist to the desired amount(example 3 inches), draw a line parallel to
waist.

Front: Remove ¼ inch at side seam for closer fit.

Back: Remove leftover dart excess at side waist if the excess is little or else leave it as a dart.

Cut pattern from paper.

Facing:

Trace 2 ½ inches below new waist of front and back skirt. (CF should be cut on fold).

Draw grainline, notch, and complete for test fit.

 LOW WAIST SKIRT

HIGH –WAISTED SKIRT

Trace the front and back skirt. Cross mark centre lines, dart points, and side waist.

Extend centre lines upwards 2 ½ inches. Label A, touching side seams. Draw 2 inches of
pattern’s side seams. Label B.

Draw a new waistline connecting points A and B. Blend side seams.

Draw lines from middle of dart legs, keeping lines parallel to the centre lines.

Draw dart symmetrical on both sides of the line.

Facing

Trace top of skirt to 1 inch below waist, close darts, blend, notch, and add 1 –inch extension
in back. Cut front on fold.
HIGH WAIST SKIRT
 A –LINE SKIRT

Trace front and back basic skirt.

Draw slash lines from the dart points nearest side seams to hemline, parallel with centre lines,
and label.

Cut from paper.

Cut to not through dart points.

Close dart and trace pattern.

Label flare at hem A B.

Label side seam at flare X.

X-Y = one- half of A-B space. Mark.

Draw a line from Y to the outermost part of hipline. Where lines intersect, label Z.

Z-Y = Z-X length. Square in from Y just pass X.

Draw bending line along hem.

Transfer just enough excess from waist dart to hemline so that space C-D equals A-B space of
front skirt. The remaining dart excess is taken up y the other dart.

Move dart point half the amount and draw dart leg.

Trace, adding to side seam using X, Y, Z instructions.

Draw grain lines, cut from paper, and complete for test fit.
A LINE SKIRT
 FLARED SKIRT

Trace front and back skirt

Draw slash-lines from the dart points to hemline, parallel with centre lines.

Cut slash-lines to, not through dart points

Close darts. Tape.

Establish front and back A- shape at side, using one half of A-B space and instruction given
for Basic A-line skirt for blending hemline.

Cut out front only.

Place front on top pattern, matching centre lines.

Measure and divide the difference between front and back skirt at the side hems.

Add one-half of this amount to the front and remove one-half from the back.

Blend side seams to hipline. Cut patterns from paper, draw grainline and

Complete for test fit.

FLARED SKIRT
 6-GORE FLARED SKIRT

Trace from basic skirt.

Draw line from dart points to hem, parallel with centre front. Label A-B.

Trace back basic skirt. Draw line from dart points to hem, parallel with centre.

Label C and D.

Front dart: increase dart intake equal to the amount of the second dart.

Back dart: reduce second dart intake by ½ inch and shorten to 4 ½ inches.

Add gore flare out from each side of guidelines. Connect lines to dart points.

Add flare at side seams, connecting line to hip.

To separate gore panels from the plotted pattern, slip pattern paper underneath the dart and
trace for each section. The paper is removed and the perforated marks are penciled in. the side
gore panels have grain line drawn through the center of each panel. The front and back panels
are cut on the fold, with grain lines drawn at, or parallel to, the centre lines.

Notch as indicated.
6-GORE FLARED SKIRT
 SKIRT WITH YOKE

Trace the front and back patterns.

Plot yoke (eg. 3 ½ inches below waist). Draw yoke line parallel with waist line.

Draw slash lines below yoke and label.

Cut and separate patterns.

Yoke

Close darts and trace front yoke on fold.

Close back darts and trace. Add 1- inch extension to center back.

Mark notches and grain line.

Dirndl

Fold paper. Square a horizontal guide line 3 inches up from bottom of paper at fold.

Cut slash lines. Place sections in sequence, and spread equally across paper (e.g. 5 or more
inches). Secure.

Trace, blending across yoke lines and hem.

Repeat for back.

Draw grain line. Complete pattern for test fit.

SKIRT WITH YOKE
 TIERED SKIRT

Plot skirt (example illustrated)

Length = 29 inches

Tier A = 6 ½ inches

Tier B = 6 ¾ inches

Tier C = 7 ¼ inches

Tier D= 8 ¾ inches

Skirt panels

Develop patterns for each tier (A, B, C, and D) using the tier length and fabric width as a guide.

Tier A = cut 1 width. Adjust back skirt by measuring down 3/8 inch at center back, blending
to side seam.

Subsequent tiers can be increased in width as desired.

Tier B = cut 2 widths.

Tier C = cut 4 widths.

Tier D = cut 8 widths.

TIERED SKIRT
 WRAP SKIRT

Trace front A-line skirt. Extend a 6-inch line out from center front at waist and hem (extension
and fold back for facing).

Notch center front waist and 3 inches out from waist (indicate the fold line for facing). Trace
back skirt on fold.

Belt Construction:

Belt extends to full length of waist less ½ inch.

Mark button and buttonhole. Underneath belt is buttoned and not seen.

Belt extends 25 inches beyond length of waist at each end for tie.

Place buttonhole in waistband at right side of skirt for tie to pull through.
WRAP SKIRT
 INVERTED BOX PLEAT SKIRT

Trace basic front and back skirt.

Front:

Draw tentative line from dart point to hem, parallel to center front (broken line).

Front:

Measure 1 ½ inches and draw line to dart point. label A-B (pleat guide).

Front & Back:

Measure out 1 ½ inches at side seam for A-line skirt. Draw line to outermost part of hip. Blend
hemline. Cut from paper.

Place pattern on paper and trace dart leg (A) ending at point B. Remove pattern.

Measure 3 inches from dart leg (A) and 6 inches from point B. Connect. Label C-D.

Repeat measurements for E and F. connect.

Extend line up from point A.

Fold A-B line to C-D line. Crease (Broken line shows pleat underlay).

Before replacing pattern for tracing, cut slash line from hemline to, not through, dart point.
Close dart. Tape.

Place pattern on draft, matching center front line. Trace remaining pattern (shaded area. remove
pattern).

With tracing wheel, trace across pleats at waist and hemline to transfer shape to pattern
underneath. Seams can be added at this time. open pattern, pencil in perforated marks, and
blend hem.
INVERTED BOX PLEAT SKIRT
 BASIC WAISTBAND

The waistline of a skirt or trouser may be finished with an attached waistband or faced without
a band. An attached waistband should be larger than the true waistline measurement (without
ease), to compensate for thickness of the darts and seam allowances stitched into the band. The
ease allowance varies, but generally, one-half the ease allowance for the waistline is added to
the waistband length. The waistline of the skirt has ease allowance greater than the waistband
(with the difference eased in).

Fold paper lengthwise and use measurements given.

A-B = finished width , square from fold

B-C = waistband length , squared from B

C-D = 1-inch extension for button and button hole , squared to fold line.

Locate side seam notches out from each side of E and mark.

Add ½ -inch seam allowance. Locate buttonhole and button placement .Cut from paper.

Draw grain line straight or crosswise.

BASIC WAISTBAND
 BASIC TROUSER BLOCK

Front

Square both sides from 0

0-1 body rise; square across

0-2 waist to hip; square across

0-3 waist to floor measurement; square across

1-4 half measurement 1-3 minus 5cms, square across

1-5 one twelfth hip measurement plus 1.5cms; square across

6-8 quarter hip measurement plus 0.5cm

5-9 one sixteenth hip measurement plus 0.5cm

7-10 1cm; join 6-9 with curve touching point 3cms from 5cms

10-11 quarter waist plus 2.25cm

Connect a dart on the line from 0; length 10 cms; width 2cm.

3-12 half trouser bottom width minus 0.5cm

4-13 the measurement 3-12 plus 1.3cms

3-14 draw in side seam through points 11, 8, 13, 12

4-15 the measurement 4-13

Draw inside leg seam 9, 15, 14

Back

5-16 quarter the measurement 1-5; square up to 17 on the hipline, 18 on the waistline

16-19 half measurement 16-18

18-20 2 cms

20-21 2 cms

21-22 quarter waist plus 4.25; join 21-22 to touch the horizontal line from 0

9-23 half measurement 16-18

23-24 0.5cm

Join 21-19 and 19-24 with a curve touching appoint 4.25 cms from 16

17-25 quarter hip plus 1.5cm

12-26 1cm

13-27 1cm

Draw in side seam through points 22, 25. 27, 26

14-28 1cm

15-29 1cm

Draw inside leg seam 24, 29, and 28; curve 24- 29 inward 1.25cm

Divide the line 21-22 into three parts. Mark points 30 and 31. Using the line 21-22 square down
from 30 and 31.

Construct darts on these lines 2cms wide; length from point 30 12cm, length from point 31-
10cm.

Trace off front and back sections.

BASIC TROUSER BLOCK
 CULOTE

Place front A-line skirt pattern at least 8 inches from paper’s edge to allow for crotch
extensions.

Front:

Trace front and back skirt. Include all markings.

A-B = crotch depth plus ¾ inch (or more).

A-X = one-half of A-B less ½ inch. Mark.

B-C = one-half of front hip, less ¾ inch, square from B.

D-E = B-c, squared from D. connect C with E.

B-b = 1 ½ inch diagonal line. Draw crotch with curve, touching C and b ending at or near X-
point. Modify curve if unable to touch B.

Back;

Trace back of A-line skirt.

F-G = D-B (of front pattern)

G-H = one-half of back hip plus ¾ inch, square from G.

F-J = G-H square from F. Connect J with H.

G-X = B-X (of front pattern). Mark.

G-g = 1 ¾ inch diagonal line. Draw crotch with curve beginning near H-g and ending at or
near X-point.
CULOTE
 PANT WITH FLARED LEGS

Add length to pant (approximately 1 inch).

Measure the back crotch level and divide in half. Measure out equally from each side of
creaseline at hem using this measurement. Mark.

Draw line from marks at hem to a location below, at, or above knee level.

Square in from legline, blending to grainline at hem of pant.

Repeat instruction for front, subtracting ½ inch from measurement.

draw grainline and complete pattern for test fit.

PANT WITH FLARED LEGS
 CAPRI

Trace front and back to Capri length.

Inseam: measure 1 inch.

Outseam: measure in 1inch. Redraw leg line to crotch.

CAPRI
 HOUSE COAT PATTERN

BODY PATTERN
(1) Outline the loose –fitting dartless block ,lengthening as required ( in this example nape
– hem = 120 cm) .
To further enlarge for a generously cut dressing –gown add :

2.5 cm to each side seam

1 cm to each shoulder length
1 cm to X back and chest width , at levels halfway around the armholes.

Lower the underarm to bust level , reshaping armhole to touch original at 2.5 cm above
bust level . Measure new back and front armholes in readiness for sleeve adjustments.

SLEEVE
Use the basic sleeve draft.
COLLAR
Refer to Fig.77
(4a) Add wrap to CF and decide on depth of rever .
(4b) Add amount of collar stand beyond (b’b) shoulder / neck point .Rule the rever rolling line
between a and b and continue beyond b to half the back neck measurements .Square to left.
(4c) Draw in rever shape and front collare where they will lie in wear .Transfer to other side
of rever roll line for pattern outline.
Refer to fig 81
(4d) Divert roll line to point d , located 5cm along squared line , i.e double the collar stand
allowance .Square on line b-d for CB of collar.

(4e) Apply amount of collar stand to the left . Square down toward shoulder and blend line
well into the neck curve , missing the CF neck pointif necessary to run into a good line with
the rever
(4f) Apply amount of collar fall to the right . Square from CB and curve line into front collar.
Refer to fig 82
(4g) Trace off the collar to separate it from the front bodice . Do not be tempted to separate
the patterns by cutting as it is all too easy to lose the shoulder /neck point corner of the dressing
gown front, necessarily overlapped during the course of collar construction . This would result
in front shoulder seam too short for the back.
Finally check size of collar against size of neckline and place a balance mark at the shoulder.
Refer to Fig.8.3
(5a) Complete by cutting a top collar pattern a little larger than the under collar.
(5b) Make back and front facings to finish the neck and front edge. (Front facing may be
grown-on if fabric width allows, i.e. cut in one with the front dressing-gown pattern and folded
on the edge.)
(5c) Make a belt pattern three times the waist measurement.
(5d) Add a pocket pattern as planned in Fig. 7.7. Add a turn-over at the top to be stitched down
on the right side if the fabric has no discernable side or onto the wrong side if it has.
HOUSE COAT PATTERN
 KATORI BLOUSE

MEASUREMENTS
Full length
Bust
Shoulder
Sleeve length

Procedure:

• Lay the brown sheet on the drafting table.

• Draw the drafting of back, front, sleeve parts of katori blouse on the brown sheet, using
paper cutting shears
• Use L square, French curve/ curve stitch for better shape.

Back Part:-

0-1= full length

0-2= B/6

0-3= ½ shoulder

0-5= B/12

0-6= B/12+2cm

0-7= 1.5cm

2-8= B/4 + 2.5cm

4 is square down from 3

Shape 5, 6 for neck.

9 is square down from 8.

10 is the midpoint of 3-4

Shape 8, 10, 7 for back arm.

Front Part:-

0-1= full length + 2cm

4-11= 2.5cm

10-12= 1.5cm

0-13= B/4

0-15= B/3

15-17 and 16-18= 6cm

17-19= 2.5cm

18-20= 3.5cm

17-A= B/12 + 1cm

A-B and A-C= 2.5cm

14-21 and 16-22 and 18-23= 6cm

6-24= 6cm

13-D and 21-E= 2.5cm

13-D and 21-G= 2.5cm

Shape D to E and F to G.
KATORI BLOUSE