Drafting a Slacks Pants

Source: Google.com

Learning Module
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Topic Page

Module Description……………………………………………………………………………………………3

Key Concepts in Drafting and Pattern……………………………………………………………..4

Drafting the Men’s Pants Front Pattern……………………………………………………………5

Drafting the Pattern Back Guide………………………………………………………………………6

Drafting the Pants Back Pattern……………………………………………………………………….7

Perform Seam Mensuration in Pants……………………………………………………………....8

Activity1…………………………………………………………………………………………………………….9

References………………………………………………………………………………………………………10

Module Description:
 This Module is a guide for you to acquire and explore the basic competencies
needed in drafting a slacks pants. This learning module would leads you to
Dressmaking National Certificate Level II (NC II). It covers three common
competencies that a garment student ought to possess, namely:

1.) Reading and interpreting pattern design; 2.) Perform seam measurement; and
3.) Drafting front and back pants pattern. The preliminaries of this learning module
includes the discussion of drafting and pattern concepts.

Suggested time: 2 hours

Summary of Learning Outcomes:

Upon completion of this module the students must be able to:

Learning Objectives 1. Discuss on the key concepts in drafting and pattern.

Learning Objective 2. Perform seam mensuration in slacks pants.

Learning Objective 3. Drafting a slacks pants pattern; and

Learning Objective 4. Practice occupational safety and health.

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Learning Objectives 1. Discuss on the key concepts in drafting and
pattern.

Introduction to Pattern Cutting and Drafting

Pattern is a template from which the parts

of a garment are traced onto fabric
before being cut out and assembled.

Pattern drafting is defined as a technique

or method of drawing patterns on
brown paper with accuracy and
precision, based on the body
measurements or standard
measurement chart.

Source: Google.com

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Drafting the men’s pants front pattern
On a long piece of paper about (outseam + (4’’ or 10.4 cm) long and (seat
+ (6’’ or 15.6 cm) wide, draw a line down the middle. Near the top, select
a point and mark point 0. From 0 down to 1 is (outseam- (1’’ or 2.6 cm).
From 1 up measure up inseam to 2. 3 is midway between 1 and 2
(inseam/2). 4 from 3 is 2’’ (5.2 cm). Square out from points 0, 2, 4, and 1.
5 from 2 is (seat/5.5). 6 from 2 is (seat/12). 7 from 2 is (seat/12). Square
up from 6 to locate 8 on line 0. Square out from 7 to locate 9 on line 6. 10
from 9 is 0.25’’ (0.6 cm). Draw line 8-10. 11 from 10 is (seat/4).
12 from 8 is (waist / 4) + (0.5 "or 1.3 cm). 13 and 14 from 4 is (knee
width / 2).
15 and 16 from 1 is (cuff width / 2).
17 from 1 is (cuff depth) (3 * cuff depth) - (0.25 " or 0.6 cm): (2 " or
5.2 cm) (allowance for the cuff (if any) is included in this
measurement).
Square out from 17.
The waist line form 8 is squared by line 8 - 10 until it is about 0.25 "
(0.6 cm) below line 8 - 12. Then it curves gently into 12.
The fly fall (front rise) follows the straight line 8 - 10 and then makes a
shallow curve into 5.
Through 11 the out seam is vertical from about 1 " (2.6 cm) above to
0.5 " (1.3 cm) below. Continue upward, curving into 12.
Shape the leg, making the inseam and out seam vertical from the
bottom to at least 2 " (5.2 cm) above 15 and 16 and identical to each
other from the bottom to the knee. Above the knee the inseam is a
natural continuation, waiting until almost the top to curve into 5. The
out seam also continues naturally above 14, easing outward to meet
the continuation downward from 11.
Add notches (for assembly) at the following points:

 0, 14, 16, 15, and 13.
 In the out seam, 1.5 " (3.9 cm) below the waist edge, and again 6.25 " (16.25 cm) below
that (for the front pockets).

In the fly fall about 1.5 " (3.9 cm) to 2.5 " (6.5 cm) from the inseam: Put the zero end of the tape
measure 3/8 " (.97 cm) below the waist edge and measure along the fly fall 1/4 " (0.6 cm) in from
the pattern outline. Cut the fly notch at the nearest whole inch, and that will be the length of your
pants zipper.
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Drafting the pattern back guide

The pattern back guide is used to determine the slope of

the back pattern piece.
Draw horizontal lines 0, 7, and 2 the same distance apart
as on the pattern front.
Near the right on line 2 mark point A.
B from A is (seat / 4) + (2 " or 5.2 cm).
Square up from A and B to locate C and D on line 0.
E from B is (waist / 4) + (1.5 " or 3.9 cm).
The distance between E and A should be (diff = (seat / 4)
+ (2 " or 5.2 cm)- (waist / 4 ) + (1.5 " or 3.9 cm).
F from C is (diff / 2)
G from D is ( diff / 2 )
Draw line A - F and locate point X where it crosses the
horizontal line 7 .
H from F is 4.5 “(11.7 cm)
From H square down 2.5 " (6.5 cm) to locate J.
K and L are each 1/4 " (0.6 cm) from H.
Draw lines J - K and J - L (back dart).
Draw line B - G and extend it 1/8 " (0.3 cm) to M.
From M square out to 1/8 " (0.3 cm) below the horizontal
line 0; then curve gradually into K.
From L to F draw a curve that dips 1/8 " (0.3 cm) below
the straight line.
Extend the straight lines M - B and F - A to several inches
below line A - B , and cut out the pattern back guide
along the curved lines M - K and L - F .
Cut out the vie for the back dart, all the way to J.
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Drafting the pants back pattern

For the back pattern, use a piece of paper about (out seam +

(12 " or 31.2 cm) long and (seat + (12 " or 31.2 cm) wide,
draw a line down the middle.
Lay the front pattern piece on the paper, lining up the 0 - 1 line
of the front with the line on the paper, and draw around it.
Indicate notches and points 10 and 11. Take away the front
piece and label points 5, 13, 14, 15, and 16. Draw
line 10 - 11 and extend it to the right.
18 from 11 is 2 “(5.2 cm)
Place point X on the pattern back guide on point 18 on the
paper. Using the common point as a pivot, swing the guide up
until side M - B touches point 10 on the paper.
Draw around the guide above 10 and 18 (X). Label M and F.
19 and 20 are 1/2 " (1.3 cm) from 13 and 14.
21 and 22 are 1/2 " (1.3 cm) from 15 and 16.
23 from 5 is ((seat / 24) + ((3/8 " or 1 cm))), that is, half of
the distance from 7 to 2 plus 3/8 “(1 cm).
23 from 19 is the same as 5 from 13.
The seat seam (back rise) follows the straight line M - 10 ,
becomes a shallow curve just outside the 10 - 5 curve of the
front, and runs through 5 into 23 , finishing up straight for
about the last 1 " (2.6 cm) .
From the bottom to the knee the inseam lies 1/2 " (1.3 cm)
outside the front outline. Above the knee it continues naturally,
doing most of its curving into 23 near the top.
The out seam too is 1/2 " (1.3 cm) outside the front outline
from the bottom to just above the knee. Then it eases outward
to pass through 18 and curve just outside the F - 18 line into F.
The bottom is in line with that of the front.
Cut out the pattern back, and cut knee and bottom notches.
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Learning Objective 2. Perform Seam Mensuration in pants

 The seam allowance is 1/4 " (0.6 cm)

 The 1.5 " (3.9 cm) that was subtracted when applying the out seam
measurement (line 0 - 1) represents the finished width of the waistband. It
would seem that no seam was allowed for here, but note that
line 12 - 11 - 14 - 16 is curved, not straight, and thus is actually greater
than the out seam. The seam allowance is included in this curvature.
This also makes the out seam on the front piece slightly shorter than the out
seam in the back piece. This is a refinement found in custom-tailored pants.
The out seam on the pants back is to be eased between about mid-thigh to
about mid-calf, making the pants leg curving imperceptibly forward at the
bottom.
 It was in locating point 18 that both seam allowance and ease are
incorporated. Lines 10 - 11 on the front and 10 - 18 on the back together
measure half the seat measurement plus 2 “(5.2 cm).

 Only very tight pants need provision for dress. The term refers to the side
toward which a man places his intimate parts. A man is said to "dress right"
or "dress left". Most men dress left.
Dress is allowed for by deflecting the fly seam away from the side toward
which the man dresses. The fork of one pants front, usually the right, is
reduced by about 1/2 " (1.3 cm)

Self-Check 1

Directions: Answer the following questions briefly:

1. What is pattern drafting?

__________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________.

2. How to draft the pants front and back patterns?

__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________.

3. What is the importance of using appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

during pattern drafting?
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Activity Sheet 1

Directions: Draft the following pants pattern in a short sized bond paper.

1. Drafting the men’s pants front pattern

2. Drafting the pants back pattern

Do the task by following the scoring rubric honestly and sincerely.

Points Criteria
9-10 All tools in drafting were properly used
and labelled with correct measurement.
7-8 Almost all of the tools in drafting were
properly used and labelled with correct
measurement.
5-6 Some of the drafting tools were
properly used and labelled with correct
measurement.
3-4 Some of the drafting tools were
improperly used and labelled
incorrectly.

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REFERENCES

https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/pattern-making-garment.html

https://www.google.com/search?
q=what+is+pattern+drafting+in+garment+making&rlz=1C1CHBF_enPH763PH763&sxsrf=ALeKk0
0trQs8QQYmYm0YWoaQg9YdZRR4Zw:1590135999920&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=J086
MyCvkjqu6M%253A%252CMSowBK9KgQoubM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTiDloJboo1-
Vusjo8Y6S9pAVFtag&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjTvK2bhsfpAhVlNKYKHY2bC-
MQ_h0wAHoECAoQBA#imgrc=u6_jfXRcZItJBM

https://www.scribd.com/document/145714887/Drafting-Men-s-Pants-Pattern.

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