METHOD OF INSTALLATION

WALL FINISHES
 PLASTER AND PAINTING
- Clean the trowel often for a smooth, sleek surface.

STEPS:
1) Prepare the walls for painting. Apply the base coat and let dry. If desired, choose
a color similar to the tinted Venetian plaster to eliminate white spots
2) Next,apply the plaster.Spray the roller until it's damp to help the thick plaster go
on easier. Put just enough plaster in the tray to cover a comfortable area (about
6 feet x 6 feet). Don't worry about any white areas. This will create contrast later
so 80 percent coverage for the first coat is fine. The roller is a quick way to apply
the plaster, but follow with random sweeps of the trowel to level the surface.
Continue around the room in this fashion, cleaning the trowel often for a smooth,
sleek surface.
3) Then,create texture.Let the plaster dry for at least four hours before applying the
second (and last) coat. Fill the mud tray with more plaster and bend the trowel
slightly to help alleviate scratch marks. Apply the plaster in crossed and rounded
strokes to create the illusion of texture. The goal is to fill in the holes and even
out the plaster so you need 100 percent coverage now. If you are plastering a
large surface, this is where you want some help. Let dry.
4) Sand the wall in small, circular motions with 400-grit sandpaper, and then wipe it
down with a damp towel or rags. Use 600-grit sandpaper to polish the surface in
the same manner. The more you sand, the more contrast there will be in the
color. Remove the dust as before.You should see the texture between the first
layer of plaster and the second. If that isn't shiny enough, hold the trowel almost
flat against the wall and polish the surface as above. This generates heat and
friction, resulting in a distinctive sheen.
1. Clean the surface of the wall gently. Wet a clean cloth or sponge with warm
water and a mild liquid detergent, then wring out the excess moisture. Run the
cloth over the walls from top to bottom to clear away dust and other debris
that can interfere with the paint’s ability to set up properly.[6]

2.Cover adjacent surfaces with painter’s tape. Painter’s tape can be used to

protect the trim at the top and bottom of the wall and around doorways. It will
also come in handy for putting over accents that are a pain to remove, like
dimmer switches. Make sure to line up the edges of the tape precisely, or you
could end up with a lopsided paint job.[8]

3.Buy a bucket of primer. For most jobs, a standard white primer will be your
best bet. That way, the new paint color will be able to stand out. A gallon of
primer should be enough to take care of most painting projects.[9]

4.Roll the primer onto the wall. Apply an even coat from the floor to the
ceiling, covering the broadest areas near the center of the wall. The base coat
doesn’t need to be too thick—as long as it's smooth and consistent, the paint
will sit easily on top of it.[11]

5.Use a handheld paintbrush to fill in the gaps. Work the primer into tight
crevices and other hard-to-reach areas with the tip of the brush. Pay particular
attention to corners, alcoves and the spaces around the trim and wall fixtures.
Try to match the thickness of the rolled sections as best you can.[12]

6.Let the primer dry completely. Give the base coat about 4 hours to set. It
should be dry to the touch before you begin applying subsequent coats of
paint. It may be more convenient to apply the primer in the afternoon or
evening, then wait until the following day to tackle the paint.

7.Choose the right type of paint.When it comes to picking an interior paint,

you have many options available to you. Consider not only color, but also the
desired texture and finish you want for the wall. Pastels, for instance, can be
used to brighten up the half-bath or sitting room, whereas darker shades can
add a sense of size and dimension to communal areas like the kitchen.[13]

8.Mix the paint thoroughly. Use an electric paint mixer or handheld stirrer to

blend the paint to an even consistency, even if it was mixed when you
purchased it. This will prevent the oils and pigments from separating, result in
better coverage and a smoother finish. Once the paint reaches a uniform
texture throughout, it will be ready to go.[15]

9.Begin painting at the trim by hand. Dip the tip of your paintbrush about 2"
into the paint, letting the excess drip off. Then, brush the paint onto the wall
with the angled edge of the brush, starting at one of the room’s upper corners.
Follow along the painter’s tape and work your way down using smooth, linear
strokes until you’ve completed the outer perimeter of the wall.[17]
 10.Paint the interior of the wall. After you’ve painted the wall’s outer edges,
use a wide roller to take care of the middle. The best method for painting with
a roller is to apply it in alternating "M" or “W” pattern, working back and forth
over the same section until it’s completely filled in. You can then move onto
another section, repeating the same pattern.[19]

11.Apply additional coats.Depending on how deep you want the new color to
come out, you can roll on a second or even third coat of paint. Paint these
follow-up coats the same way, starting with the outer edges of the wall and
working your way inward. Be sure to wait about 2-4 hours between coats to
give the fresh paint time to dry.[22]

12.Allow the paint to set up overnight. Take one last look over the wall to
check for thin spots, lumps, drips or other problem areas before calling it a
day. Be prepared to give the top coat of paint at least twice as long to dry as
you did the primer. In the meantime, try to resist the urge to touch the paint in
order to prevent accidental smudges.

 DRYLINING (PLASTERBOARD)

1) Determine what kind of plasterboard you will need.

White plasterboard is not water resistant but very cheap.Blue or green
plasterboard is water resistant but costs 2-3 times more.

2)Draw a straight line on the floor or on the place where are you going to
build your wall.
.
.
3)Cut wood for the frame and assemble it, using a screwdriver.You can
use a permanent adhesive but it's not recommended, if you want to be
able to remove the dry wall later

4)Measure and cut the plasterboard.

5)Screw the plasterboard on the frame.

 6)Add insulation to your wall, if you want.Just cut it to the right size and
place it inside your frame. Make sure to get the right type of insulation,
depending on what you need: heat or noise or both.

.
7) Plaster your wall or just cover it with some paper.
FLOOR FINISHES

 NON-SLIP CERAMIC TILES

Before installing,keep in mind that the floor will be 1/2” higher after the installation.In
bathrooms you may need to adjust the toilet,vanity, and other fixtures to compensate.
Before you install a ceramic tile floor,make sure the floor is smooth and secure.If
there’s any movement in the floor while walking across it,install a cement board
underlayment.

1) First,measure across the room and mark the center.Then,measure the room in
the other direction and mark the center.Snap a chalk line across both center
points;the intersection of the two lines is the center of the room.
2) Next,lay out the tiles in a dry run,starting at the center and following both chalk
lines. Place spacers between the tiles to ensure proper distances between
them.Reposition the starting point if necessary.
3) Place the center tile,using the type of adhesive recommended by the
manufacturer.Hold the notched edge of the trowel at about a 45 degree angle to
the floor and apply the adhesive to the floor. Press the tile in place while twisting
it back and forth to secure it into position.Pull the tile back up and look to make
sure the adhesive is in contact with all of the bottom of the tile.If you still see
bare spots on the bottom of the tile you need to make the adhesive thicker when
applying it with the notched trowel.Reinstall the center tile.
4) Use the center tile as a reference point, and install the remaining tiles along
straight lines. Install only a few tiles at a time, spreading adhesive for two or
three tiles. If adhesive oozes up between tiles when you press the tile into place
you are using too much adhesive. Place spacers between the tiles to establish
the grout lines. If necessary cut any tiles to size for the end rows next to the
walls of the room.
5) After installing the tile, allow it to cure overnight or for the amount of time
recommended by the adhesive manufacturer.
6) Mix the grout to a consistency similar to peanut butter. Grout comes in a wide
variety of colors, and it can be tinted to match your decor. Scoop some grout
onto the tiles, and use a rubber grout float to work it into the joints. Spread the
grout with the float at an angle to the grout lines to force it as far as possible into
the joints.
7) After you finish working the grout into the joints, wipe off the residue with a damp
sponge being careful to not pull any grout out of the grout lines between tiles.
 For best results, rinse the sponge frequently. Allow the grout to cure to a light
haze, and buff the tiles with a soft damp cloth. Follow the manufacturer's
instructions on how to cure the grout. This may take several days with you using
a spray bottle to keep the grout damp. After the grout has cured, apply a sealant
to the grout lines. If you're installing the tile in a bathroom, caulk along the tub
line to prevent moisture from seeping underneath the tiles.

 CARPET

1)Fit carpet tiles.Unroll and stick a length of double-sided tape adjacent to the starting
line. Tape every third row and the flooring will be securely held in place.

2)Take off the adhesive tape backing on the double-sided tape and start positioning the
first row of tiles. Butt tiles tightly up against each other.
3)You can also use spray adhesive to hold tiles in place. Make sure you use one
recommended for the tiles. Also, wear a mask and keep the room ventilated.

4)The direction in which you lay the tiles will affect the pile pattern you achieve. Check
directional arrows on the back of the tiles before laying.

5)Build up rows, working across the floor. Keep checking that edges are firmly butted up
against each other, laying the double-sided tape every third row.
6)Around the edge, measure and cut edge tiles accurately for a neat finish. Use a
retractable knife and a straight edge. Stick in place until all gaps are filled.

CEILING FINISHES

 DRYLINING (MINERAL FIBRE CEILING)

1)Inspect the area for any obstructions, such as electrical wires,

ductwork, or protruding pipes. Install furring strips to the framing in order
to create a flat, even surface for drywall installation around these
obstacles.

2)Mark the wall studs to indicate the locations of the ceiling joists for
reference during the installation process. You'll also want to mark the
placement of light fixtures and electrical boxes.

2) Build a T-Brace, if necessary. This will provide the leverage and

support needed to raise the drywall panels to the ceiling when you're
working alone.

3) Hang the drywall, starting in the corner, where you can use a full
sheet. Raise the first sheet to the ceiling so you can get an idea of the
placement across the joists.

4) Wait until you know where you're placing each sheet before you apply
any adhesive to the joists. Drywall adhesive dries within 15 minutes, so
you'll want to be ready.
 5) Using your T-brace, or a friend to assist you, raise the first sheet of
drywall to the ceiling and slide it snugly into the corner. Make sure that
the tapered edges of the sheet are facing the floor.

6) Continue along the first wall, always ensuring that the tapered edges
abut one another and are facing down. The tapered edges are designed
to make the process of taping and mudding easier.

7) Affix the drywall sheets permanently to the ceiling joists using either
nails or screws. The heads of the fasteners you choose should come in
contact with the paper facing, sinking in slightly without breaking through
the paper.

8) Drive the fasteners in 3/8 inches (0.95 cm) away from the edges of
each sheet, and space them 7 inches (17.78 cm) apart along the
perimeter. Along the interior joist, install the fasteners at about 12 inch
(30.48 cm) increments.

9) Start the second row with a half sheet of drywall in order to stagger
the seams. This will enforce the stability.

10) Measure and mark the cut line at the vertical midpoint of the drywall
sheet.Use a straightedge to help guide your utility knife as you cut. Tip
the panel off of the floor or table at a slight angle, then push it down to
break it in half. Use the utility knife to cut through the paper backing

11) Trim the dry wall's length by first marking the line with chalk. Score
the line with the knife first, then cut deeper with the second pass.

12) Install panels over vents or light fixtures loosely at first. Use a rotary
drill to cut out a border for the fixture or vent, and then fully attach the
board.
13) Complete the entire ceiling installation before moving on to the
walls.
.
 PLASTER AND PAINT
1) The first stage to follow is to apply your first coat of plaster. Apply the the plaster
to about 2mm to make sure you cover any scrim tape that might be used
2) Clean you buckets after apply the first coat and get ready to mix another batch of
plaster. You always apply 2 coats of plaster and the second mix is often mixed
thinner and applied to about 1mm. This is the time to fill any missed areas and helps
create a more consistant finish.
3) This is where you trowel any marks or lines out of your plastered walls. Remove
any streaks and start getting a smooth area.
4) You have to trowel you ceilings to get a nice, even finish. This is where you start
to create a flat surface. Its also is the time to fill any holes or blemish’s with the
plaster you collect during your troweling.
5) Same as the previous step but this time you use your brush or sprayer to apply
water to your plaster. This helps provide lubrication and makes it possible to
trowel your ceiling. You should have a clean, flat surface by this point with one final
stage to finish.
6) The last stage on plastering a ceiling is to give it a final trowel. Don’t use any
water and you should be left with a beautiful, newly skimmed ceiling.
7) To paint a ceiling, work continuously around the perimeter of the room, and cut in a
three- to four-inch wide area at the corners with a paint brush. Smooth out the cut-in area
by lightly brushing the tip of the bristles over the newly painted area to create a feathered
edge.

8) Next, place a loaded roller in the corner of the room, and roll in one direction toward
the opposite side of the room, in parallel lines, Do not roll directly over your head; instead
roll in a direction toward yourself.

9) Work quickly and continuously until the entire surface is coated. Do not roll in a "W" or
a "V" pattern on the ceiling.  Allow the first coat to dry completely before determining
whether a second coat is necessary.

https://theconstructor.org/building/types-plaster-finishes-external-rendering-
buildings/14532/
https://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/painting/venetian-plaster-
and-strie-technique
https://www.realsimple.com/home-organizing/home-improvement/painting/paint-wall
https://www.wickes.co.uk/how-to-guides/tiling-flooring/lay-vinyl-and-carpet-tiles
https://www.wikihow.com/Paint-a-Wall
https://plasteringforbeginners.co.uk/how-to-plaster-a-ceiling/
http://www.behr.com/consumer/how-to/interior/how-to-paint-a-ceiling
https://www.wikihow.com/Install-Ceiling-Drywall
https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Dry-Wall-Partition-for-Your-House