BY ASIF IQBAL

Introduction:
The process of joining fabric with the help of needle and thread is very ancient and till date it is the
most widely used process for joining of fabrics all over the world. But there has study been going on
for years whether fabrics can be joined without needle and thread; and a number of alternative ways
have been evolved too. But in case of joining fabrics in alternative ways, there are a number of
limitations, such as, the inconveniences of the speed of joining, the appearance of seam, the
performance of seam etc. By researching with a long time some alternative methods are invented for
joining fabrics. But the processes that are presently being used for alternative use of joining fabric
though are not used for general sewing, but they are very much convenient and important for some
special cases. In this article I will discuss different alternative methods of joining fabric.
TYPES OF ALTERNATIVE JOINING:

• Four methods are normally applied for fabric joining instead of normal sewing methods. Those
are-

• Fusing
• Welding
• Adhesive
• Molding.
FUSING METHOD:
• What is fusing?
• During fusing an interlining is bounded to the outer fabric with the help of a thermoplastic
resin. A fusible interlining contains a base cloth which can be similar to that of a sewn-in
interlining. The fusible interlining consists of a thermoplastic adhesive on the top of the
surface generally in the form of drops which appear smaller in size which will melt eventually
in the further process on the application of specific temperature. Not all garments fabrics are
fused.
Factors required during fusing:

The base fabric of interlining: The base fabric is available either in woven or non-woven or
even in knitted form (Warp knit). Nylon fibers offer soft handle and drape.

The pattern of application of the resin to the cloth: Resins used are made up of PVA, PVC,
and Polyamides, polypropylene, polyester, polypropylene and polyethylene.

The type of fusible resin: The choice of the resin depends upon the outer fabric used. The
resin must be harmless and should have low dye penetration.
The means of fusing:
The fusing equipment's should provide control over three main factors they are namely, temperature,
pressure and time.

Temperature: If the temperature is low than the desired temperature then it offer poor and
subsequent adhesion. Higher temperature gives too much flow resulting of performance.

Pressure: Too low pressure reduces penetration with consequent low adhesion where as high pressure
provides excessive penetration of resin.

Time: Enough time must be given to the equipment to allow the temperature and induce melting of
resin and penetration of the outer fabric in order to produce a satisfactory bond.
 FUSING PROCESS:
• The three processes that are presently being used for alternative use of joining fabrics, among
them fusing is the most used process. Specially, the job of joining of interlining with sewing has
almost been entirely replaced by fusing. In this process, the side of the base fabric of the
interlining, where exists the resins or polymer, is placed at the underside of the fabrics of the
garments properly and joined by applying heat and pressure. The polymer layer or resin in the
interlining is melted by heat and the melted polymers enters into the fibers of the fabrics of
garments and the fabrics of interlining by pressure and the melted polymers become hard,
when it is cooled and the two fabrics that means, the fabric of the garment and the fabric of
the interlining are bonded perfectly and rigidly.
Only the interlining can be jointed in fusing process but this process cannot be used for general sewing.
Interlining cannot be joined with all kinds of fabrics or garments in the above mentioned process, for
which it is not being possible to totally discard the process of joining of interlining by sewing.
WELDING METHOD:

• In case of garments making also, joining of fabrics or sewing is done in a very limited quantity in
welding process. In this process, the fabrics where seam produced by welding, should have at least
65% of thermoplastic fiber. Taking two or more layers of fabrics together, heat and pressure are
applied along the wanted seam line. As a result of applying the required amount of heat, the
thermoplastic present in fabrics melts, and joined. In this process, heat is not applied from any
external physical source, instead, heat is generated in the fabric by ultrasonic process.
• If two materials are rubbed strong with one another, then heat will be generated in the place
where the rubbing will take place. If multiple layers of fabrics with thermoplastic fiber are kept
together at the place where rubbing will take place, then heat will be generated in that place due
to the cause of rubbing and if the heat is generated in sufficient amount, then thermoplastic fibers
in fabrics will melt and the melted polymers are joined by applying required amount of pressure.
A transducer is used in welding machine for converting the electrical power to mechanical
functions or vibrations. Heat is generated with the help of mechanical vibrations produced by
transducer. If the mechanical vibration is below 18,000 cycles per second, then sound will be
audible by ear. So generally the vibration is kept at 20,000 cycles per second.
For joining of fabric in welding process, the mechanical vibration produced by transducer is send to
a horn. Heat is generated at the place between the vibrated horn in high speed and the fixed anvil.
Both heat and pressure are generated by horn. Horn may be in rectangular or in round shape. If
rectangular, its measurement may be up to 25 cm x 4 cm, and for round, its diameter may be up to
9 cm. the shape of the horns may be in different forms based on the various types of welding.

The amount of heat generation depends on amplitude of vibration, frequency, pressure and the
time of vibration. The amount of amplitude of vibration is determined on the types of fabrics and
the types of welding, pressure is determined in the light of practical experience and generally it
takes two seconds. The horn or the anvil always remains cold during welding in this process. After
doing welding of a limited length, again welding is done in a limited length, that means, batch wise
welding is done.

This process is used for neatening of the edges of fabrics for joining of motifs (thermoplastic fiber is
must in the motif), for sealing off the cut ends of ribbons or tapes for making ties, for shaping of the
parts of garments, for button holing, for shaping and sealing off the waist band ends etc. The seams
produced in this process are to some extent rigid and rough, for which they may seem prickled in
touch with the body, for which it should not be used in those places which come directly in touch
with the body. The joining of fabrics in this process is given priority for making of water or rain
repellant garments. Because, water cannot penetrate through this type of seam or joining.
Generally, this process is used in a limited case of making of garments of cheaper price, as there are
many disadvantages in joining of fabrics in this process. Those fabrics, where the percentage of
presence of thermoplastic fibers is less than 65, can also be joined, but then polythene film is to be
used between the two layers of fabrics.
Amount of heat generation depends on:
Amplitude of frequency
Pressure
Frequency
Time of frequency

Advantage:

Completely water proof seam can be prepared.

Disadvantages:

Produced seam is stiff & rough so cannot be used in the seam which stays closely with body
Create discomfort feeling during wearing and used in cheap garments.
 ADHESIVE METHOD:

• Adhesive is generally meant to any sticky material by which something is joined. The adhesives that
has been meant in case of making of garments, is to some extent different in qualities than the
ordinary adhesive.

• The adhesive used for fabric joining are mainly of two types:

• Thin layer of adhesive remains on silicon paper which just after transferring on fabrics, fabrics are
joined

• One kind of material which melts in heat and helps in joining of fabrics.
The difference between the second type of adhesive and the welding is that, in case of welding, heat is
generated within the fabrics, but in case of adhesive, heat is applied from physical source. Besides this,
in welding, the materials in the fabric of the garments melt and joined, but in adhesives, the separate or
different materials are used for joining of fabrics.

This process is used in a very limited amount for making of seams by joining of fabrics. For edge
neatening of fabrics, an adhesive thread is used as a looper thread, and folding the neaten edge
properly for making of hem, when heat and pressure are applied, the adhesive thread melts and
attached with the fabric rigidly. As a result, hemming can be done without sewing. But the disadvantage
is that, no change of hemming or of this kind of seam can be made. In separate process, attaching the
stripes of adhesive along the edge of the pocket, patch pockets can be joined with the garment. But
top stitching is required for strengthening of the seam.
 MOULDING METHOD:
• In this process, though fabrics of multiple layers cannot be joined or are not joined, nevertheless, this
process has been kept as an alternative process for joining of fabrics. Because, a specific shape is made by
sewing, but in moulding process, a specific shape can be given without sewing, for this reason, it is
considered as an alternative process of it.

• In this process, the fabrics which can be given specific shape, should have at least 65% of thermoplastic
fiber. Generally moulding is done in knitted fabrics, because it is suitable for stretching and shrinking. By
stretching and shrinking of fabrics, the desired shape is given and the thermoplastic fiber is softened by
applying heat, the temperature of the fabric is gradually brought to normally. As a result, the new shape of
the fabric is fixed.

• A few years back large quantities of ladies trousers were manufactured in moulding process. Making the
knitted fabrics in tubular form in the volume of the leg of the trousers and wearing the tube in the shape
of a leg forma, the volume would be set by moulding. Then by cutting the two tube shaped set in the similar
way along the seat seam and then by sewing, the trousers were made. But presently the ladies trousers are
being made in a very limited quantity, because in case of changing the fashions or styles and in case of
increasing the beauty, this process has some limitations.
The moulding process is being used most in making the brassieres for the ladies. This process is
used for making the cups of the brassieres. Then by joining the two cups by sewing, brassieres are
made. The brassieres made in this process are beautiful to look at and comfortable to wearing, for
which a sizable part in making brassieres are made in this process.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN GENERAL METHOD AND
ALTERNATIVE METHOD

GENERAL METHOD A LT E R N AT I V E M E T H O D
• In this method two or more fabrics are joined by
• In this method fabrics are joined by the
fusing, welding, adhesives, molding and so on.
action of needle and thread.
• Fabric becomes stiff and rough along the seam
• Fabric becomes soft and flexible along the
line.
seam line.
• This method is use for limited purpose in
• This method is most common method in
garments industry.
garments industry.
• This method is uncomfortable to wear.
• This method is comfortable to wear.
• Comparatively lower seam strength.
• Seam with higher strength.
• Joining is comparatively lower speed.
• Fabric can be joined quickly.
• Rejoining is not possible due to any defect.
• Re sewing is possible due to any defects.
LIMITATION OF ALTERNATIVE METHOD OF
JOINING
• Limitations:

• Lower joining speed hence less production.

• Seam appearance is not so good.
• Seam performance is not satisfactory in some aspects compared to sewn seam
• Alternation of seam is quite difficult, also impossible in most of the cases.
• Comparatively less comfortable due to harsh feeling.
CONCLUSION:
• The dominant process in the assembly of garments is sewing, which is done by needle and
thread for joining of fabrics. The methods/systems/processes which have been developed as
alternative to sewing are known as ‘alternative methods of joining. This alternative method is
becoming popular day by day though this have some difficulties.