Alternative Methods of fabric

Joining

Prepared and presented by:

Israt Zebin Ansari
Lecturer, Dept. of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
Definition: The method/system/process which have
been developed as alternative to sewing are known
as alternative method of fabric joining.
Limitations:
• Lower joining speed hence less production.
• Seam appearance is not so good.
• Seam performance is not satisfactory in some
aspects compared to sewn seam.
• Alternation of seam is quite difficult, also
impossible in most of the cases.
• Comparatively less comfortable due to harsh
feeling.
Methods
• Fusing
• Welding
• Adhesive
• Moulding.
 Fusing
• Most widely used system and mostly used in case of joining
interlining. Specially, the job of joining of interlining with
sewing has almost been entirely replaced by fusing.
• In this process, the resin / polymer coated side of the base
fabric of interlining are spread on the underside of the
garments fabric & joined by applying heat & pressure.
• Due to heating, the resin/polymer of interlining are melted &
due to pressure, this melted resin/polymer penetrate inside
the construction of fibre of garments fabric & of interlining
base fabric. When they get cold, the melted polymer becomes
hard & interlining is joined with fabric.
• Limitation is, it only can be used for joining interlining, not
suitable for general joining of fabrics. Moreover this process
cannot be used to join interlining to all kind of fabric.
The fusible interlining is attached with the body
fabric by the following sequence:
Placement of interlining on the body fabric
↓
Heat and pressure application for a certain time
↓
Fusing of thermo-plastic resin
↓
Bond formation between resin and fibre
↓
Laminate fabric
Joining fabric by fusing
 Welding
Welding is a thermal process requiring melting of material
at the fabric surfaces that are being joined. It refers to the
thermal bonding and sealing of seams in knitted, woven,
and nonwoven thermoplastic materials without adhesives,
chemical binders, staples, needle, or thread. The three
principles for welding are heat, speed, and pressure.
It has limited use and Fabrics must contain at least 65%
thermoplastic fibre to be joined by this method.
Uses:
• Welding decorative motifs to garments.
• Production of close-fitting performance garments
(sports-wear and underwear).
• Sealing of the edges of sewn garment parts and other
garment components to prevent fraying and avoid the
need for additional sewing.
Problems:
• The seams tend to be less flexible, and have
less stretch and recovery than sewn seams;
both these problems can cause the seam to
break down.
• If a seam is joined incorrectly, it may be
impossible to alter it. While stitching is, in
most cases, simple to undo and re-sew, seams
joined by other methods are likely to become
damaged if separation is attempted.
 Fabric welding-what and why
Fabric welding is the process of joining pieces of fabrics
using heat and pressure. Thermoplastic coatings, such as
polyvinyl chloride (PVC), Poly urethane (PU),
Polyethylene & Polypropylene (PP) fabrics are used for
heat sealing.
Fabric welding is not required for usual daily clothing or
products. Only when the product needs to be made
specialized with highly functional effects, then only
fabric welding is done. Such requirements arise when the
product has to get-
• Water resistant
• Pressurized
• Abrasion resistant at the seam
• Resistant to thread decay
• Fine appearance
 Basic procedure for welding
Heat applied from fabric
(Heat are not only from external source. By ultrasonic method heat is created inside the
fabric)

Melting of thermoplastic materials

Applying pressure on melted area

Creation of bonding

Cooling

Fabric joined
 Categories of fabric welding
Fabric welding

Dielectric welding Rotary welding

Water Radio frequency Hot Hot Ultrasonic

resistant welding air wedge welding
• Radio frequency welding (also known as RF or dielectric
welding). An alternating electric field is applied to two shaped
electrodes between which are the materials to be seamed.

• Hot air welding. Hot air is directed to the join-line between

the fabric plies, and a roller applies pressure to facilitate flow
of the melt.

• Ultrasonic welding. The seam assembly is placed under a

metal head which is vibrated at ultrasonic frequencies. This
creates a melt and the pressure of the head ensures flow.

• Hot wedge welding. a heated wedge that slides between two

fabric membranes which soften the coating. The pressure is
applied, and when the two fabric membranes cool there will
be a permanent seam between them.
Hot air welding
Hot Wedge fabric welding
The main difference between a wedge and a hot air welder is the way in which
heat is transferred to the material. With a wedge welder, a solid piece of
metal—the wedge—is heated electrically and inserted between the two pieces
of material. With a hot air welder, air is heated and then delivered between the
two pieces of material via a hot air nozzle.
Ultrasonic fabric welding
 Adhesive
Adhesive means a substance which causes fibres, yarns,
fabrics or other materials to adhere or stick together. There
are two types of adhesive available for joining the fabrics.
Those are-
• Silicon paper, containing a thin layer of adhesive in which
fabrics are joined after placing.
• Solid adhesive, this will be melted under heat. As a result
fabrics are joined together.
Uses
• The use of an adhesive thread as one of the looper threads
in edge neatening of hem. When the hem is pressed the
thread melts and holds it in place without sewing.
• In the seams of waterproof garments.
• Attaching garment parts by means of adhesives where
subsequent stitching, such as topstitching, will prevent the
parts peeling apart
Adhesive or fabric glue
 Moulding
• When you look for a smooth appearance, or seamless cup,
or a second-skin fashion, fabric moulding is the solution.
• Moulding is a process which transfers a piece of fabric or
sheet foam into a three dimensional shape of lasting
quality. This process involves an exact combination of heat,
pressure and dwell time to suit each individual fabric and
mould form.
• By moulding process the essential definite shape of
garments is found without making seam. Generally,
moulding is done in case of knitted fabrics, because it is
easy to stretch or shrink the fabrics.
• Like welding it also should be necessary to have at least 65%
thermoplastic materials to be present in the fabric which is
going to be mould.
Uses:
Lady’s trousers, kid’s trousers, lingerie bras and swimwear etc
Basic procedure for moulding
Fabric placed on a mold

Heat is applied (in a chamber)

Pressure is applied

Cooling

Achieving permanent shape

 References
1. Wise, R (1999). Thermal welding of polymers. TWI
members report 667/1999, pp5-16
2. Prabir Jana, Assembling technologies for
functional garments—An overview, Indian
Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol. 36,
December 2011, pp.380-38
3. http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/alte
rnative-method-fabric-joining
4. https://www.stanmech.com/fabrics-articles/wedge-
versus-hot-air-welding-of-industrial-fabrics
 Thank You & there are some
homework for you!!

1. Difference between welding and adhesives

method.
2. Comparison between sewing method and
alternative method of joining .