Contoured

keepsake box

© 2012 August Home Publishing Co.

 Designer Series Project

contoured
Keepsake Box
Great-looking veneer and hardwood plus a few interesting woodworking
techniques add up to a memorable project.
A keepsake box is something that
just about everyone appreciates.
And an elegant design like the one
shown above is suitable for any
occasion. On top of that, you can
enjoy trying out a few interesting
woodworking techniques that go
into making the box.
Splined miters and contoured
sides are the focal points of the basic
box. The hinged lid not only has an
interesting profile, but it features a
veneered center panel trimmed with
thin, inlaid banding. I used an easy
and reliable method to veneer the
panel without using an expensive
vacuum press or any special tools.
The best thing about this proj-
ect is that you can find most of
the material you’ll need to build
it in the scrap bin. Any hardwood
will do just fine. (I chose mahogany.)
You can change the look of the box
by choosing matching material for
the splines, or use a contrasting
wood, like I did. And since it only
requires a small piece of veneer,
you can look for an interesting piece
without spending a fortune.
While this box may be small, it’s
a timeless piece that will show off
your skills. It’s hard to imagine a bet-
ter way to spend your shop time.

1 WoodsmithPlans.com WS19422 ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 NOTE: Front, back,
and sides are planed
to thickness from NOTE: Box will be
#/4"-thick stock tapered and shaped
after assembly
B
A
BACK

2!/2
C
BOTTOM

11 A
7
B FRONT
SIDE
Size groove to 12
match thickness
8 of plywood a. SECTION VIEW
M
NOTE: Front, back,
and sides are %/8"-thick
hardwood. Bottom is
Z !/4" plywood %/8

building the mitered Box

Even though the finished appear-
ance of the keepsake box is elegant
and contoured, it begins as a very
straightforward, rectangular assem-
bly. Later, you’ll add splines in the
corners and taper the outside.
Mill the Stock. The front, back, and
sides of the box are all 5⁄8" thick. So
I started by planing some 3⁄4"-thick
stock to this thickness. Then I cut
the pieces to final width and rough
length, as shown in the main
drawing above.
Groove. The box below shows
how I used a standard blade to cut
the groove for the bottom. By mov-
ing the rip fence slightly between
passes you can sneak up on the
correct width to match the thick-
ness of the plywood.
Cutting perfect miters. Since you’ll
shape the sides of the box, it’s very
important that the miter joints are as
close to perfect as possible.
You can start by tilting the saw
blade 45°. Here, you’ll want to take
the time to set this angle accurately.
Then attach an auxiliary fence to
the miter gauge. The auxiliary fence
backs up the cut, and stops it from
tearing out on the back side. I also
attached adhesive-backed sandpaper
to the fence to prevent the workpiece
from slipping during the cut.
2!/2
Now you can cut one end
of each piece. The right draw-
!/8
ing below shows how I used a #/8
stop block to keep the length of
opposite sides exactly the same.
This step is critical to assembling
tight miter joints.
Assembly. For the final steps to
assembling the box, lay out all
four pieces against a straightedge
with their inside faces down and
tape across each joint. Then, cut
the plywood bottom and dry fit
the assembly. Finally, add glue
to the miters, insert the bottom in
the groove, and bring the pieces
together, taping the final corner.

How-To: Prepare the Front, Back, & Sides

A B
Sandpaper
holds piece in
place
a. END VIEW
a. Stop block END VIEW

#/8
Cut groove Aux. fence
in two passes
to match
thickness of
plywood

Groove. First, cut the upper edge of the Miter to Length. With an auxiliary fence on the miter gauge and
groove. Then bump the rip fence in to the blade set to 45°, start by cutting one end of each workpiece.
sneak up on a good fit for the bottom. Then set up a stop block to cut the opposite end to final length.

2 WoodsmithPlans.com WS19422 ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 CROSS SECTION

END VIEW

Refer to Shop
Notebook on page 7
for details on making
and using the
SIDE VIEW slot-cutting jig

PART NAMES

THIRD: Trim
splines then
NOTE: This sand flush
FIRST: Cut slots
Using contrasting for splines
FIRST: This is wood for splines
adds an interesting
decorative detail
SECOND: Glue
SECOND: This splines in place
Splines are
1 resawn from

completing the
thicker stock to
THIRD: This fit slots
D

Box
2 SPLINES
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4

#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8

This is callout With the box assembled, the next
text
order of business is to cut slots in the
corners and add the splines. As you
D E F G H I J K L M
can see in the box below, I
Q R S T U V W X Y Z use a simple, shop-made jig
to hold the box at the proper
angle to cut the slots. You
can find the plans for mak-
ing the jig on page 7.
Cut the slots. Using the jig
is a reliable way to accu-
rately cut the slots. But
there are a couple of things
to set up first.
Start by setting the blade
{ The corner block makes height to cut through the jig
it possible to clamp the to the correct depth on the
splines in position. corners. You can see what
I mean in detail ‘b’ above.
a. SIDE VIEW
!/2
!/2
!/8
#/4
Make test cuts through the jig and
measure the blade height to get it set
properly. Since the jig rides against
the rip fence, all you need to do is set
the fence to the correct spacing for
each slot. Detail ‘a’ shows the posi-
tions of the slots.
Make the splines. The center draw-
ing below shows an easy way to
cut splines from a piece of contrast-
ing stock. (I used walnut.) Plane or
b.
TOP VIEW
!!/16
sand the splines for a snug fit. They
should not be so tight they need to
be pounded in place. After apply-
ing glue, I used a piece of scrap with
beveled edges as a clamping aid, as
you see in the margin photo at left.
A flush-cutting saw makes short
work of trimming waste from the
splines. Then, a little sanding is
all it takes to smooth out the sides
of the box. And since subsequent

How-To: Create Slots & Splines

a. END
VIEW Flush-
cutting
Kerf saw
thickness

Slot-
cutting b. END
!/8 VIEW NOTE: Secure
jig 1 box in vise to
trim splines

Contrasting
Rip wood for
blade spline stock

Cutting the Spline Slots. Hold the box Ripping Spline Stock. Set the rip fence and Trimming. Using a flush-cutting
firmly in position in the jig as you cut the cut (detail ‘a’), then flip the workpiece over saw, carefully trim the waste to
slots for the splines. and repeat. Cut the splines free as in detail ‘b.’ avoid breaking off the splines.

3 WoodsmithPlans.com WS19422 ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 SIDE VIEW

PART NAMES FIRST: Rout centered

hinge mortise while 10!/32 THIRD: Bevel sides
sides are square on the table saw

NOTE: This

FIRST: This is

SECOND: This

THIRD: This

!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4

#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8 SECOND: Rout roundover

on lower edge

a. CROSS SECTION
This is callout
text
!/8 !/4

D E F G H I J K L M

Q R S T U V W X Y Z
Thickness of
hinge
operations
OVERALL rely on the sides riding
DIMENSIONS: I simply sandwiched the back of 2
against the fence on the table saw the box between a couple of sup- 11°
CROSSand router table, having the sides
SECTION port blocks. With the blocks taped
flat is important for getting consis- in place, there’s plenty of surface
#/8"radius
tent, even cuts. area to safely rout away most of the
Hinge Mortise. The lid is connected waste for the hinge mortise, as you
to the box with a continuous
TOP VIEW can see in the left drawing below. !/8
(piano) hinge. To get a good fit for Then I squared up the ends of the
the lid, the hinge needs to be mor-
SIDE VIEW mortise with a chisel.
tised into the back edge of the box. Routing the Bottom Edges. Next, I used illusion that the splines are each a
The depth of the mortise equals the
PART NAMES a roundover bit to add a visual different size. You can safely make
full thickness of the hinge. (The lid detail to the lower edge of the box. this bevel cut by installing a rip
isn’t mortised.) The center drawing below shows blade and tilting the blade 11°. The
NOTE: ThisThe edge of the box is too narrow how this profile creates a small right drawing below has the details.
to support the router during this cut. foot on the base. It’s not unusual to get a little bit
FIRST: This
Andis there’s a risk of tearout if you Beveling the Sides. The beveled sides of burning here, so be sure to use a
try this on the router table. So I used provide a very distinctive look for sharp, clean blade. Finish up with
SECOND:anThis
easier way to rout the mortise. the box. The bevel also gives the a good sanding.

THIRD: This

Shape the Box

!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4

#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8

Support
blocks
This is callout
text

a. a. a. END
Turn box
END VIEW upside down VIEW
D E F G H I J K L M
Thickness to cut bevels
Q R S T U V W X Y Z
of
hinge 79°
Attach #/8" !/8 Tilt blade 11°
support roundover
blocks with CROSS SECTION bit
double-sided
tape

Hinge Mortise. By taping support Rout. Using a roundover bit, rout the Beveling the Sides. With the box upside-
blocks to both sides of the back, routing bottom edges. By making multiple, down on the table saw, sight down the
the hinge mortise is a breeze. shallow passes you’ll get a clean profile. edge to set the fence.

4 WoodsmithPlans.com WS19422 ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 TOP VIEW

OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
NOTE: Lid frame F NOTE: Center hinge in
SIDE VIEW G
a. pieces are made LID BACK mortise and measure
SECTION VIEW from #/4"-thick END VIEW final length from center
PART NAMES stock to leave even-sized
knuckles on both ends
END VIEW
2#/4 Chain Purchased
anchor inlay G
NOTE: This banding
TOP VIEW LID SIDE
E
Cut ball
FIRST: This is chain to final LID PANEL
SIDE VIEW length (6") Veneer
11#/4
F 9!/4
SECOND: This
PART NAMES LID FRONT 5!/4

NOTE: Lid panel cut to 7#/4

THIRD: This #/8 final size after gluing Continuous
NOTE: This veneer to oversized hinge
plywood panel
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4 3!/8 b. 1!/2
FIRST: This is !/4
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
SECOND: This Felt lining

making the
!/8 #/4
glued in place
after assembly
This is callout
text
THIRD: This SECTION VIEW

N O
B C

P Q
D E F G H I
!/16
Veneered Lid
!/8 !/4 #/4
R S!/2 T %/8U &/8V
#/8 W X
J K L M

Y Z
c. Inlay
SECTION VIEW

!/4
A hinged lid completes the look of !/8
This is callout
the box. The beveled edge of the
Veneer
text lid complements the tapered sides NOTE: To make lid, see How-To
box (next page)
of the box. But the veneered panel
A B C OVERALL
D E F G HDIMENSIONS:
I J and
K Linlaid
M border really make the
box stand out. I applied glue and attached veneer the glue set up overnight, you can
N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
CROSS SECTION Start with the Panel. After finding a to both sides of the panel. Next, I remove it from the clamps and cauls
special piece of figured veneer, I sandwiched the panel between two and trim it to final size.
END VIEW prepared a slightly oversize ply- cauls with waxed paper in between Rabbet & Recess. As you can see in
wood panel to use as a substrate. to prevent the panel from sticking detail ‘c’ above, you’ll need to rab-
TOP VIEW Since this is a very small panel, to the cauls. Then, just place several bet the edges of the panel to fit into
you can glue the veneer to the sub- clamps around the assembly. the frame. In addition, you’ll also
SIDE VIEW strate using only clamps and some For this kind of glueup, I like to need to cut a very shallow recess
cauls. The cauls are just a couple of let the panel stay under clamp- for the inlay banding. Then glue
PART NAMES 3⁄ "-thick flat panels slightly larger ing pressure longer than normal to the banding in place in the shallow
4
than the lid panel. ensure a good bond. So after letting groove (see How-To box below).
NOTE: This

How-To: Create the Veneered Lid & Inlay

FIRST: This is

SECOND: This

FIRST: Miter
Aux. fence E and install
THIRD: This one edge

!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4

a. END VIEW a. END VIEW
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
After veneering Width
the lid panel, cut !/4 of inlay
the rabbet using Sneak up on
a dado blade !/8 depth and
This is callout width SECOND:
text Move on to
the next
piece
A B C D E F G H I J K L M
Rabbet. With an auxiliary fence installed, Rout Channel for Inlay. Using a straight Install the Inlay. Fit each piece of inlay
N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
bury the dado blade and cut the rabbet bit, rout the very shallow channel to hold one at a time, mitering the corners with
on the outside edges of the panel. the narrow inlay banding. a sharp chisel or plane iron.

5 WoodsmithPlans.com WS19422 ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
W
PEW
EWVIEW
EW
EWVIEW
DE

How-To: Make the Lid Frame

IEW
IEW
EW
E VIEW
EW
IEW
RT NAMES
NAMES
AMES
MES
RT NAMES
AMES
NAMES Lid Frame. To hold the veneered

1 2
OTE: This panel, I made a mitered frame. Of
F G F G
ThisThis course, it will become the lid of the
This
his
TE:
This
ThisThis is a. a. END VIEW
RST: box, but you’ll go through the same END VIEW

This
This
his
ST: isisis is sort of process as you would for
his This
This isis Tilt
COND: Thismaking a picture frame. Thickness
of veneer blade 60°
ND:
D:: This
COND: ThisThis It may look like a complicated
This panel 30° #/8
D: This
ND: This !/8
HIRD: This task, but the step-by-step instruc-
tions at right break it down into Rip blade !/4
ThisThis
This
his
RD:
This
: This easier, single cuts. Waste
!/8 !/4 #/4
After selecting the stock and mill-
!/4
4!/4 #/4
#/4#/4
!/2 %/8 &/8
!/8
!/4!/4 #/4!/4
#/4
#/4 ing it to final size, head over to the Groove. With a rip blade installed, cut the Inside Bevel. The next step is to tilt the
%/8
%/8 &/8
&/8
8!/2 &/8%/8 &/8
%/8
table saw and cut a groove to fit shallow groove that will hold the veneered blade 30° and cut the bevel on the inside
%/8 &/8&/8
the tongue on the panel. Then tilt the top panel in the frame. edge of each of the frame pieces.
is is callout
xt saw blade 30° and cut the bevel on
callout
allout is callout the lower inside edge, as shown in
callout
sallout
tcallout 3 4
F G H I J K L M
Step 2 and in the detail.
Assembly. At this point, you can a. END
GFS L LLMM
VIEW
G HHH GTI IIIHUJ JJJIV
KKKJW
KK LLKXM
MLY MZ
GG HH I J miter the
M frame pieces using the
TT UUUTVVV same techniques as before. Once a. END VIEW
TTS UU UWW
VV
W WVXXX WYYYXZZZY Z
W XX YY ZZ
that‘s complete, install the panel and 75°
!%/16
assemble the frame. The remaining #/32
!/8
steps to create the profile are final- Cut groove to
create
ized after assembly. shoulder for Tilt blade 15°
bevel to trim waste
Completing the Profile. Now, cut the
shallow notch shown in Step 3 to Shoulder. After assembling the frame, cut Outside Bevel. As you did earlier on the
create the shoulder of the “raised a very shallow groove that will define the box sides, carefully sight the edge of the saw
panel” profile. The final bevel cut, border of the frame’s top. blade to meet the shoulder.
as in Step 4, should just meet the
edge of the notch, as shown in
5 6
detail ‘a’ of Step 4.
In the final two steps, you’ll rout a
shallow rabbet on the underside of
the frame and round over the edge, a. END VIEW a. END VIEW
as well. The rabbet you rout in Step
5 creates a lip for the lid to rest on the !/2" !/2 !/8
!/4"
straight roundover
upper edge of the box. bit bit
After completing the rabbet,
install a roundover bit and rout the
profile to soften the appearance of Rout the Lip. With a straight bit installed Round Over the Edge. Complete the
the lid, as in Step 6. in the router table, rout the rabbets to form profile of the frame by adding the roundover
Final details. By now, you’ve got a the bottom lip of the lid. to soften the look of the lower edge.
good fit for the lid. There are just a
few final details to complete. Materials & Supplies and Cutting Diagram
After cutting the hinge to length
3/4" x 5" - 96" BIRCH (3.33 Bd. Ft.)

with a hacksaw, I used double-sided A Front/Back (2) 5⁄ x 21⁄ - 12

8 2 • (1) 16mm x 780mm Continuous Brass Hinge
tape to hold it in position while B Sides (2) 5⁄ x 21⁄ - 8
8 2 • (10) #1 x 3⁄8" Fh Brass Woodscrews
installing the screws. Now you can C Bottom (1) 1⁄ ply. - 7 x 11 !/4"Birch• (1)
4 #3 Ball
plywood 12"x Chain
24"
apply your favorite finish to the D Splines (12) 1⁄ x 1 - 2
8
C
• (2) #3E
Chain End Anchors
box before you install the chain and E Lid Panel (1) 1⁄ ply. - 51⁄ x 91⁄
4 4 4 • (2) #4 x 3⁄ " Rh Brass Screws
8
anchors, as you see in detail ‘a’ on F Lid Front/Back (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 113⁄
4 2 4 • (1) 63⁄4" x 103⁄4" Felt
the previous page. Finally, glue a felt G Lid Sides (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 73⁄
4 2 4 • (2) 6" x 12" Veneer
lining in the bottom of the box. • (1) 36" Inlay Banding
The result of your effort is an !/4"Birch plywood 12"x 24" #/4"x 5"- 48" Mahogany (1.7 Bd. Ft.)
attractive lidded box that’s sure to A A B B
C E G
gain a prominent spot in the home. F
And, of course, a lot of admiration
ALSO NEEDED: Contrasting wood for splines
from your friends and family.

6 WoodsmithPlans.com WS19422 ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
#/4"x 5"- 48" Mahogany (1.7 Bd. Ft.)
 TOP VIEW FIRST: This is #8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
SIDE VIEW SECOND: This #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
PART NAMES THIRD: This #8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew !/16 !/8 !/4 #

A tips from our shop

B C D E F G H I J K L M

N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

AA BB CC DD E E F F GG

HH I I J J KK L L MM NN

OO P P QQ R R S S T T UU
Brass
VV
mple WW XX YY ZZ
NEW #8 x 1!/4"
END
CROSS SECTION
GRAIN
SplinedEND
Miters
VIEW
Fh wood-screw Support
3
PART NAMES !/16 17!/4
This
To strengthen the miter joints in a.
NOTE: Locate
the corners of the keepsake box, I
Typical Plywood
screws above
#8 x 1!/4" Fh endgrain
woodscrew
added splines. The splines create
(#/4" shown) height of saw
blade
NOTE: This
additional gluing surface and help Fence
prevent the miter joints from open- 8 45° 45°
ing up over time. NOTE: 4
The hardwood splines are glued Jig is built out
of #/4" plywood
into slots cut across the miter joints. 12
The easiest way to cut these slots is NOTE: Glue and
screw fence to supports
at the table saw. But the trick is to
hold the box at a 45° angle while
cutting the slots. To do this, I made
a simple jig, like the one shown at a.
right. The jig is just a short fence with Support
a couple of supports that cradle the SIDE
SECTION
Antique Brass
box at the proper angle. VIEW
color sample
As youNEW can see in the lower right
END
Box
drawing,GRAIN
the jig rides against the rip Aux.
fence of your table saw. This way, fence
you can use the rip fence to position
Typical Plywood !!/16
the slots on the box.endgrain
After you set the
rip fence for the (#/4"
firstshown)
(bottom) slot,
NOTE:
simply rotate the box to cut identical Use rip blade for
slots on all four corners before mov- flat-bottomed kerfs

ing on to the next (middle) slot.

7 WoodsmithPlans.com WS19422 ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
 MAIL Project Sources
ORDER
SOURCES All of the hardware used for the
contoured-side box is available from
Woodsmith Store
800-444-7527 Lee Valley. This includes the hinge
(00D52.16), hinge screws (91Z01.01X),
Lee Valley ball chain (00G40.01), chain end anchors
800-871-8158 (00G42.15), and brass chain screws
leevalley.com
(91Y04.01X). The felt used to line the box
General Finishes can be purchased at a fabric store.
800-783-6050 To finish the box, we wiped on a coat
generalfinishes.com of General Finishes’ Seal-A-Cell and then
sprayed on two coats of lacquer.

8 WoodsmithPlans.com WS19422 ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.