14 DAY KEEP BY

by Teddy Tanchanco
I. Feeding During The KEEP
Let me reveal to you what some cockers call "secrets" in conditioning of gamecocks for the pit. For
starters, let us talk about feeding.
Some cockers say that the secret in the proper conditioning of gamecocks is feeding. It is
undeniable that feeding plays a very important role in conditioning, but let us bear in mind that
feeding should be considered in relation to other factors, a trainer must monitor while preparing his
set of feathered warriors. With due respect to other trainers, please consider that what I am about to
say here is only what I personally do.
First of all, before going into a "14 days KEEP", we must select candidates. If you are to fight a 5-
cock derby, simply multiply the number of cocks for an entry (say, 5) by three (3) to come up with the
number of candidates you must choose (thus, 15). It is assumed that these cocks went through a
pre-conditioning process where they are in good flesh, healthy and full breasted, but without gut fat
or "sapola". It is best that they are about 200 grams higher than their best fighting weight observed
during the pre-conditioning. It is better to lower a cock's weight during the KEEP rather than to
increase it, which will take a lot more time, effort and uncertainty. Remember that we will do a 14-
days KEEP, not 21 or 30.
Now, "what is the correct fighting weight?" you may ask. The best fighting weight is that weight
where your cock fought best during the spars conducted while he is in the pre-conditioning. In the
pre-conditioning stage, record each cock's weight before every spar. Grade his fight according to
your preference. He might be good, very good, excellent or neutral during these sparring sessions.
In at least five (5) sparrings, you must be able to know his best fighting weight. Consider the weight
where he fought best as his best fighting weight.
Give your candidates only bread soaked in milk as flushing feed on the day of your selection.
Deworm them the usual way, and delouse by simply spraying on the feathers. Do not deep the
cocks in water. Now they are all cleaned up, inside and out.
To avoid disease and other infections during the KEEP, I inject Combiotic (only 1cc. per bird) on the
breast of each cock on the first day.
For the feeds during the KEEP, I try to maintain a 16% crude protein (C.P.) level from day one up to
the eleventh (1-11). To achieve this, mix several ingredients as follows:
50% - whole corn
20% - red wheat
10% - whole oats or jockey oats
10% - Royal Pigeon Feed
10% - Pellets (16% C.P.)
Corn is the staple food of fowl which supplies a lot of carbohydrates and some proteins. I use red
wheat instead of the white one because red wheat is easier to digest, and it has a higher protein
level than the white. If you can't find Royal Pigeon Feed, you may substitute this with 5% green peas
and 5% yellow peas in the ration. These feedstuffs supply most of the proteins in the cock's diet. The
10% Pellets indicated above may be Holding Ration Pellets or simply Pigeon Pellets. Just make sure
that the pellets you use contain 16% crude protein. Look at the packaging for this information. The
above proportions are measured in dry weight.
All grains are soaked in water for at least 9 hours. Right after each feeding, soak the grains you will
need for the next. Soaking increases seed moisture and stimulates germination. Germinated grains
produce more proteins. Legumes, like green peas and soybeans, must be heated or germinated to
make their crude protein metabolizable. Otherwise, we cannot utilized the proteins from these
grains. Mix the grains with the pellets only at feeding time. You now have what is called your base
feed.
To this base feed, add some white of hard boiled eggs. Chop finely one (1) white of a hard boiled
egg for every four or five cocks. This supplies some proteins and help retain moisture inside the
cock's body during this time. Hard boiled egg is given to the cocks all throughout the KEEP (day 1 to
14).
Aside from hard boiled eggs, add bulk (fiber), and natural vitamins and minerals to your feed by
mixing finely chopped tomatoes or cabbage or lettuce. These veggies should make up 20% of your
feed mixture, while the other 80% is from the base feed with hard boiled eggs. We use volume
measurements now, instead of weights. If we take one (1) tablespoon as 20%, then we can mix (1)
heaping tablespoons of veggies to four (4) heaping tablespoons of the base feed to make a hundred
percent (100%). This will be the final make up of your feed from day 1 to 11.
Provide the cocks a steady supply of grits from day 1 to 9 of the KEEP. Grits help the cocks digest
the feed and keep the gizzard well-exercised. They remain in the gizzard for about a week. Thus,
grits are withheld 5 days before the fight to empty the gizzard not only of feeds, but also grits, on
fight day.
Feed the cocks on a regular basis. Always feed on the same exact time everyday. I give my morning
feed at 7 a.m. and the afternoon feed at 4 p.m. Give each cock two (2) heaping tablespoons of the
feed mixture mentioned above. This is about 30 to 40 grams of feed per cock. During the day, the
cocks should be crop empty by 2 or 3 p.m. to show that their digestive systems functions well. It
takes only six (6) to seven (7) hours for feeds to be digested in the body of the fowl. If one becomes
crop-bound before the afternoon feed, take him out of the KEEP.
I like cocks which are voracious eaters and fast grinders. These show that their system is really at
work. Picky cocks or those which leave feeds in their cups must be experiencing something
unpleasant. They must be observed and treated for any disease, and sent back to pre-conditioning.
Try always to observe the cocks in KEEP before, during and after feeding. If possible, observe them
the whole day, everyday, and even during their sleep.
With this feeding system, we expect the cocks to loose that extra 200 grams off their weight in the
beginning of the KEEP. Therefore, daily monitoring of weights is necessary. Weigh the cocks in the
morning before feeding. A cock should lower his weight by as much as ten (10) to twenty (20) grams
per day and arrive at his best fighting weight on the 11th day of the KEEP or on the last three (3)
days before fight day. If one loses 50 or more grams within a span of 24 hours, the cock must be
sick or incapable of bearing stress in the KEEP. Back to the pre-conditioning he goes. Three (3)
days before the fight, we do the Carbo-Loading Technique.
II. Carbo - Loading Technique
Carbohydrates is the main source of energy for cocks in training. Like human athletes getting ready
for competition, the gamecock must store enough energy in his body to be used during the fight for
his life. The critical days in conditioning which are the last three (3) days before the fight, finds the
trainer wanting to load up his gamecock with as much energy as possible to give him that power he
will need. This is done by "Carbo-Loading".
Simply put, "Carbo-Loading" means the technique of increasing or "loading up" of carbohydrates in
the diet of gamecocks during the last three (3) days of the Keep as a part of "pointing".
The objective here is to increase the available metabolizable energy (M.E.) in the cock's body that
will be used during the actual fight. This is achieved by increasing the caloric content of the feeds
given to the fowl. From the 16% crude protein base feed we have given from the first to the 11th day
of the Keep, we gradually increase the amount of carbohydrates to 75% or 80% in the last 3 days.
Gradually, so as not to upset the digestive system of the cocks.
To the base feed, for every 100 grams, add 10% corn, or an equivalent of 10 grams of corn on the
12th day, 20 grams on the 13th day, and 30 grams on the 14th, for a total of 80% corn in the ration
on the 14th day. Thus, the total amount of protein decreases, while carbohydrates increases. The
usual amount of two (2) tablespoonsful of feed is given to the cocks daily, morning and afternoon.
Why use corn? First of all, feeding corn gives your gamecock that "snap" everytime he hits his
opponent. Just compare cocks fed with corn to those, which are not. Gamecocks that have corn in
their diet feel more fleshy or muscular although a bit heavier, while cocks with no corn feel loose to
the touch.
Corn is my choice for carbo-loading because corn has the high amounts of carbohydrates
(metabolized energy) compared to other feedstuff. The table below shows the amount of nutrients
available from common feed ingredients found in grains used as conditioning feeds. We can see that
oat groats (dehulled) has the highest metabolized energy (3400 Kilo calories) followed by corn with
3366 Kcal. However, oat groats is also high in crude fats. This will tend to bring about "sapola" or gut
fat in the cock. Experience also tells me that feeding more oat groats turn the droppings very green
and take away that "snap" from the cock's buckles. Thus I prefer corn, which also has high-
metabolized energy, but low in fats. This metabolized energy is stored in the body of the fowl for at
least 2 days before it is transformed into fats if not used during this time.
On the last 3 days before the fight, soaking of the grains is usually regulated. Moisture in the body of
the cock is dictated by various conditions, both of the cock, and his environment. Because of these,
water intake is managed during the last three (3) days of the Keep.
Above data derived from: The Merck Veterinary Manual, Seventh Edition
III. Moisture and Water Management
A gamecock's body is at least 65% water. From this fact alone, we can see that water is really an
important element in the proper conditioning of our fowl. Let's dig deeper. Why are we so concerned
about water and moisture, in the first place? To properly condition cocks, we have what we call their
"peak", meaning to say, they are "On Point" or in layman's term, they are in their lowest possible
weight, but still with their greatest strength or power. We can effect this through the correct
management of moisture and water for the fowl.
Water specifically affects a gamecock in training in two ways: 1) as a supply of moisture needed by
the body for normal bodily functions, and 2) as a temperature regulator. For digestion, water acts on
the grains and pellets as a solvent and helps in fermentation. Feeds taken by the cocks during
mealtime are stored in the crop where it undergoes fermentation. At this point, acids, proteins and
carbohydrates are further enhanced before they are passed on to the gizzard for further digestion.
Thus, whenever a cock gets crop-bound, we must do all we can to empty his crop of the fermented
feeds lest he will die from the poisons these might produce. Without the right amount of water,
proper digestion and fermentation of feeds will not take place and can endanger the life of your
beloved fowl. So, keep a watchful eye on how you feed and water your gamecocks, specially while
they are in training.
From day 1 to 11 in our conditioning program, water is always present before the cocks right after
feeding. Moisture is also assured by soaking the grains overnight. However, on the 12th day, you as
a conditioner/trainer must have what I call a clinical eye and be very careful is assessing the
condition of each fowl. While observing your fowl, ask yourself the following questions: How much
water does your cock consume or drink during the day? One way of doing this is to draw a line
inside his feeding/drinking pot right on the first day of the Keep to remember the actual amount of
water you put in each morning. By night fall, get that which remains of the water in the pot and
measure it using a graduated beaker. By the tenth day, you can more or less predict how much
water each cock will drink in a day. On the 12th day of the Keep, watch how much he drinks. Is the
cock eating his usual amount of feeds? How does he respond to carbo-loading?
On the 12th day, we have started adjusting the carbohydrates content of the feeds, remember? If the
cock has the right amount of moisture in his body by this time, he is suppose to eat the same
amount of feeds he is accustomed to. How are his droppings? Are they watery, dry, or moist?
We gauge the fowl's body moisture by observing their droppings. By moist, we mean, the droppings
do not splatter when voided, but have the right texture and form when dropped. Try stepping on it
lightly and if it sticks to your shoe, then it has the right moisture. Also, watch your cock as he
defecate or move his bowels. If he is having a hard time passing his stool, he must be too dry. If he
is too dry, he won't cut. If he is too wet, he will be sluggish and won't cut accurately. How is the
weather? Is it cloudy day, sunny, warm, rainy or hot?
During hot summer months, the cock will certainly drink more water to regain lost moisture and at
the same time to regulate his body temperature. A feverish cock will drink water more frequently,
than a cock which has the right body temperature. Consequently, their droppings will be very watery.
The wind also makes the cocks dry. Although their temperature might be alright, loss of water
through the skin and feathers is greatly affected by the wind or air current. You might not notice, but
your cocks may already be too dry although they would rather stay on the roost because the wind is
too cold.
During the rainy months, infections abound. These infections like CRD and Coryza make cocks
feverish. Cocks might not show the clinical signs at first, but you will notice that they drink often not
just to regain moisture but also to regulate body temperature. They are feverish. Get them out of the
Keep.
The range of a cock's body temperature during the Keep is between 38.5o to 39.5o Celsius. This is
their normal body temperature. Use a rectal thermometer to measure your cock's temperature.
Finally, how does each cock feel to the touch? This is something no medical or scientific means to
tell you. You have to have the feel for properly conditioned cocks. American cockers call this "corky",
maybe referring to the light feeling when you hold the cock in your hands.
When held, some cocks are full-bodied and heavy, and tight muscled. Some are thin, light and
loose, while others are thin, heavy and tight. Still others are thin, heavy and loose. We are looking
for a cock which is full-bodied but light and a bit loose. If they feel tight-muscled, they maybe muscle-
bound. We don't want this on fight day. Muscle-bound cocks have muscles still suffering from
fatigue. When we say "loose", we mean relaxed muscles. Properly toned muscles have that tension
and looseness in them. Always check their weight through your record book. Your cock must be in
his best fighting weight. On this 12th day, we are looking for loose muscles because for the next two
(2) days we shall try to make the cocks tighter and dryer.
If your cocks have been properly conditioned, they will drink less water for the rest of the Keep. In
case, on this 12th day, you find your fowl's droppings watery, or too dry, you still have the 13th and
14th day to make adjustments.
IV. Pointing and Troubleshooting
The day, Fight Day, is the most critical day when fighting your gamecock. On this day, just hours
before the actual fight, the cock's condition must be at its peak. We achieve this through a procedure
called Pointing.
Pointing is the process wherein the cock is made to be in his lowest possible weight, yet still with his
greatest strength. Cocks in this condition are said to be at their "peak" or "On Point". A cock coming
to point must have glossy feathers, bright red face, moist droppings, red watery eyes, alert and
relaxed, and with normal body temperature.
But before pointing your cock, I think some explanation about joining a derby is in order. Derbies are
usually held in the evenings up to the early morning hours. In Big time Derbies, submission of
weights is done a day before and the fight schedule comes out in the afternoon. For smalltime
derbies, submission of weights is in the morning on fight day.
Mornings, before submission of weights, before feeding, limbers the cocks in folding scratch-pens
and observe their droppings. Wait 'til a cock passes his stool before weighing him. From each cock's
weight, subtract 30-50 grams and submit this to the cockpit as the weights of your entries. Bad
weight or weight 40 grams over your declared weight is fined during derbies. The cock loses weight
during pointing and 30 grams is a more or less safe margin for this. For example, if your actual
weight is 2.1 kg., subtract 30 grams from that, and declare 2.070 kg. as the weight of your entry,
2.110 kg. is your bad weight. On the time of fight, your cock will surely weigh less than 2.1 kg.
because of pointing. Even if your cock does not lose weight during pointing, you are still in the
allowable weight limit. Remember to calibrate your weighing scale to that of the cockpit's where you
will fight.
Time of fight is also important. A cock digests his normal feed in 6 to 8 hours and fully absorbs the
nutrients in another 4 to 6 hours. So, try to know your fight schedule to program your feeding time
beforehand. If your fight is 6 p.m., count 6 to 8 hours backwards (about 12 noon) and feed your cock