Professional Documents
Culture Documents
2014-TR01-KA200-013070
Final Report
OUTPUT 1
TRADITIONAL FARMHOUSE
CHEESE PRODUCTION GUIDELINES
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CHEESE MODULE
(P&M)
PREFACE
This Module was prepared within the scope of the Ministry of EU Main Action 2 –
Cooperation for Innovation and Good Manufacturing Practice Exchange Vocational
Education Strategic Partnerships Projects - "Preserving and Marketing Farmhouse
Artisan Cheese Project" numbered 2014 – 2020 2014-Tr01-KA 200-013070. All partner
organisations provided detailed information to compile this module.
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CONTENTS
PREFACE………………………….……………………………………………………….….2
P&M INTRODUCTION……………………………………………………………………….5
ANNEXES
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1. MODULE TIMETABLE
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Introduction
This module was prepared for “Traditional Cheese Production Education” within the scope of the
project entitled “Preserving and Marketing Farmhouse Artisan Cheese”, which was considered worthy
of support by the Ministry of EU, National Agency Erasmus Program between the years 2014-2016 and
conducted under the coordination of Ardahan University. The project, whose short name is P&M
(Preserve and Marketing Farmhouse Artisan Cheese), has been conducted with the cooperation of
Turkey, Spain, Italy and Macedonia between the years 2014 -2016. In addition to Ardahan and Kars
Provincial Food, Agriculture and Livestock Directorates, the Boğatepe Environment and Life
Association, carrying out projects in the European Union countries for the purpose of preserving
farmhouse cheese and local products, is also included in the project.
The main objective of the P&M project is to preserve the types of cheeses that are produced in small
farms, represent a local heritage and in danger of extinction and to make them available in the market.
Within the scope of the project, determination of the methods for producing local farmhouse cheese
types and introducing them to the market as well as their documentation will be realized by means of
sharing local farmhouse cheese production and marketing methods and experiences among the
participant countries that are candidates or members of EU.
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3. Food Standards and Legislation Researches for Local Products: The purpose of this
component is to determine those articles that are included in the legislations prepared for
local cheese types produced in our country while they are not required by European Union
and yet lay obstacles for small producers by comparing locally applied food standards to the
standards required by EU and applications in other countries. The education programs that
will be prepared with respect to the legislation differences determined in favor of small
producers will be communicated to the specialist working on the subject, decision-makers and
other partners.
Country Institution
Turkey Ardahan University (Coordinator)
Turkey Kars Provincial Food, Agriculture and Livestock Directorate
Turkey Ardahan Provincial Food, Agriculture and Livestock Directorate
Turkey Boğatepe Environment and Life Association
Macedonia Slow Food Bitola
Italy Slow Food Italy
Spain Red Española de Queserías de Campo y Artesanas
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Nutrition and healthy life, which are basic human needs, is possible only if the consumed foods
are safe. Foodborne diseases lead to negative consequences on human health both in developed and
developing countries. The objective of food safety is to ensure that the manufactured products do not
give harm to consumers as well as the environment we live in physically and biologically.
Food safety refers to the whole of measures taken to eliminate physical, biological and any kind
of harms that may be involved in foods. Looking at the concept of food safety from a narrow
framework, “situation of being harmful to human health” has utmost importance in the concept of
food safety. This principle is expressed as “sanitary” or “harmful to human health” in the regulations.
In case a food substance is harmful to human health, it leads to abnormal changes in human health
when consumed such as causing diseases in the human body and increasing existing disorders.
Throughout all the stages of production from processing raw material to obtaining the final
product, it is possible that the product may be contaminated with disease causing microorganisms
from various sources. As a result of microorganism activities, the structure, taste and flavor can be
changed in the processed product, therefore its quality is reduced. On the other hand, presence of a
large number of microorganisms in the food product makes difficult the application of heat treatments
such as pasteurization and sterilization.
Cleaning and disinfection are interdependent processes that are applied together or separately in
food premises. If disinfection is not performed after cleaning, cleaning may be more harmful rather
than being useful. Because, harmful microorganisms that come out with cleaning can be destroyed
only through disinfection. Otherwise, they reproduce by spreading over a larger area and pose a more
severe danger. Therefore, a good cleaning must be always followed by an ideal disinfection. While
washing or cleaning, dirt and similar substances on the surface are mechanically removed from that
surface. Through cleaning application, a significant part of existing organisms and the residues that
provide a suitable environment for their reproduction are removed from the environment. During this
process, in addition to using heat, hot or cold water, also some chemical detergents can be used.
Cleaning can be categorized according to the desired goal or “degree of cleanliness”.
Physical Cleaning: All dirt visible to the naked eye is removed from the surface.
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Chemical Cleaning: Although not visible to the naked eye, it is the removal of microscopic residues,
whose presence can be understood with taste and smell, including disinfectants and cleaning agent
residues.
Bacteriological Cleaning: It is the killing of microorganisms. While bacteriological cleaning can be
performed without performing physical or chemical cleaning, performing a physical cleaning helps
achieve the desired result in a bacteriological cleaning. Disinfection is the process of removing harmful
microorganisms from the environment and foods by using chemical disinfectants or heat.
The purpose of disinfection performed in food industry is to reduce the number of
microorganisms below the level that might spoil the food products or affect the consumer’s health.
Therefore, it is necessary to remove the infectious microorganisms from the environment, to prevent
their reproduction and recontamination. The success of the applied disinfection varies depending on
the cleanness degree of the environment, surface conditions, type of existing microorganisms, ambient
temperature and type of disinfection.
Physical Disinfection: It is done with steam or hot water.
Chemical Disinfection: It is the elimination of microorganisms by chemical disinfectants.
Disinfection by Radiation Application: For this purpose, usually 2600-2700oA ultraviolet light lamps
(low pressure mercury vapor lamps) are used.
There are national standards established to ensure that food manufacturers produce and sell
healthy products. Among these standards, GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices) defines the qualities
that food facilities must have to provide food safety and hygiene.
The main topics included in this standard are as follows:
Facility features
Equipment features
Personnel’s hygiene
Supplier control
Raw material control
Transport and storage conditions
Receipt, storage, transport and distribution conditions of raw materials
Traceability and Recall (Acquisition) Program
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Pest control
Areas: The areas where the food products are prepared, used or processed (except office areas) must
be designed and constructed in a way to ensure proper hygienic conditions for food production. The
windows and the doors in the production area must be designed and installed to prevent the entry of
harmful factors. It must be ensured that no dust or smoke can enter the production area.
Floors: According to the properties of the work place, the floors must be made of waterproof,
washable, not prone to scratch or crack formation, anti-skid, suitable for cleaning and disinfection, and
smooth material and should have enough inclination to ensure liquid waste to flow away. As a general
rule, easy to clean, easily disinfectable floor and wall materials, paint and special coating materials
that are immune to acid and humidity should be preferred. There should be sufficient number of waste
water channels in proper sizes in the production area. The entry points of the waste water channels
must be reliable against access of pests, odor dispersion and push back of the wastes, must be
cleanable and disinfectable.
Wall Surfaces: According to the nature of the work, the walls should be made of waterproof,
washable, smooth and light color materials that are not suitable for infestation, they should have easy
to clean, disinfectable properties. The wall-floor connection should have a rounded structure.
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Ceilings: Ceilings and ceiling structures should be in a way not to allow dirt accumulation, moisture
condensation and mold growth. »» Periodic maintenance of the ceilings should be made. The ceiling
height should be suitable for products manufactured and equipment and tools. The ceilings in the
production areas should be one-piece and flat surfaces.
Tools, Equipment and Machinery: Machines and equipment that are in direct contact with food
products (e.g. mixers) should be cleanable and disinfectable. Regular calibrations of the needed
machines and equipment should be performed and recorded.
Social Facilities and Toilets: In workplaces where food production and production of substances and
materials that are in contact with food is made, the following features are required in dressing rooms,
lounges, toilets and cafeterias, if available:
Social facilities, shower rooms and toilets should be separate from food production areas in the
workplace. Toilets in the workplace should have continuous water supply and sewer connection and
should not have direct access to production and storage areas whatsoever.
There should be dressing rooms, lounges and toilets for staff in the workplace, the toilets should
be designed in a way to dispose waste materials in compliance with hygiene rules and there should be
hygiene reminder warning signs in these areas.
There should be self-closing doors in the toilets. Toilets, cafeterias and dressings rooms should be
completely separate from the production areas, and these spaces should be well ventilated and
maintained.
There should be sufficient number of sinks with a plug that are placed at appropriate points and
discharged to sewage in the production areas.
There should be sufficient number of lockers for the staff where they can keep their workwear
and regular cloths separately. Foods should not be allowed in the lockers.
Lighting: The production area should be illuminated at intensity suitable to the nature of the work.
Lighting should have a quality not to affect natural colors. Necessary measures should be taken so that
when lighting lamps and their fixed fittings are broken, they are not mixed with the products. Electrical
switches should be made of water-resistant materials and they should be placed within easy reach.
Personnel’s Hygiene – For a healthy and quality production, in addition to appropriate material
selection and environment, another important factor is people who work in the facility. As with any
form of production, personnel are one of the basic components in food industry. Employees are the
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basis for effectiveness of food businesses and for ensuring compliance with good manufacturing
techniques. Actions, habits and behaviors of employees have direct impact on the outcome of the
process. With respect to the personnel working in the food production facilities, who usually come
from rural areas, the possibility of having inadequate socio-cultural structures and not having enough
knowledge and control increases the problems in a negative way.
Personnel involved in food business have heavy responsibilities in terms of human health. The
main reason for many food poisoning incidents is the negligence of staff and the lack of knowledge on
the subject. Personal hygiene is an important part of being clean with the entire body. People are the
potential source for microorganisms causing diseases with respect to spreading diseases or food
spoilage.
Good Laboratory
Practices (GLP)
Case Management
Quality
Management
Systems
Operator Training
Preventive Care
Supplier Quality
Assurance
Foods, basic ingredient of our life, may become harmful during the stages from purchase to
consumption due to lack of sufficient hygienic conditions and can pose a hidden danger to our health.
As in developed countries, the basic principle established in food production and consumption is to
protect the health of consumers in terms of disease factors as well as taking a sufficient and balanced
diet by making sure that they are fed with healthy and quality food and to prevent them to be cheated
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in food intake. Safe food is the food that has not lost its nutritional value and is physically, chemically
and microbiologically clean and unspoiled.
Factors that lead to food spoilage threaten food safety. In order to obtain safe food, it is necessary
to prevent food contamination from various sources at all stages from harvest to consumption. How
healthy the food offered for consumption is determined by checks carried out in many stages. The best
controllers are manufacturers, legal inspection agencies and consumers. The manufacturers and legal
inspection agencies carry out food controls according to objective criteria. The consumers, on the
other hand, can check subjectively. There are also differences in the quality control approaches of
industrial and legal inspection authorities. The legal inspection authorities are, in a sense, only
interested in the final product put on market. The business that makes production, on the other hand,
is responsible for all input materials used in manufacturing and marketing. It has to implement quality
control at every stage from purchase of raw material to when the product comes to the table of
consumer. The final product control usually does not give all the information about the product, if
there is a defect in the product, it does not offer any solution to improve it. It is only for determining
the defect. With the controls conducted in a food production facility, on the other hand, all the inputs
that directly or indirectly affect the product such as raw materials, auxiliary products and additives, all
stages of the process, packaging material, employees’ complying with the hygienic rules etc. are got
under control. Apart from these, it reduces the product cost by preventing the use of unnecessary
energy, water etc. therefore leads to increased profitability. In food production facilities, it was needed
to develop a risk management system that completely aims at food safety, is different and specific to
food only. For this purpose, a risk management system, called shortly HACCP (Hazard Analysis of
Critical Points), was developed in the 1960s to be used in the manufacture of foods to be given to
astronauts in space programs and in a very short period, international agreements were made in this
regard.
Hazard Analysis of Critical Points (HACCP) – Food safety in food production is an absolute demand
of the consumer using the product. In order to ensure this, a food safety control system has to be
established. HACCP (Hazard Analysis of Critical Points) is a food safety and risk management system
that responds this need, is recognized in the food industry worldwide and has proved its success. In
short, HACCP (Hazard Analysis of Critical Points) is a system aiming at getting all risks under control.
Within this context, possible risks are revealed by investigating food production methods, their
compositions, distribution and consumption conditions in a detailed way and prevention of microbial
contamination is ensured by identifying critical control points.
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In other words, HACCP is a food safety system that defines and analyzes the hazards that may arise
during the period from production to consumption of the food product and controls whether the
corrective actions to eliminate these hazards are implemented or not. HACCP is an application that is
recommended by the World Health Organization (WHO), an agency of the United Nations, and must
be legally complied with in the United States, Australia, Japan, the EU countries as well as our country.
Benefits of HACCP; It can be applied to the entire food chain. It develops trust in the product. It
makes it possible to control foodborne risks (hazards) in an economical manner. It reduces product
and raw material losses. It ensures detection and elimination of potential dangers in the first place. It
works with control parameters that are easy to control such as time, temperature, texture and
appearance. It provides a general and systematic approach to safety issues. It provides transition from
quality control of already manufactured products to “preventive quality assurance”. It provides
convenience in the European Union and all international trades. It allows process control to be proven
with documents. It proves that operations are carried out in compliance with specifications and legal
regulations.
Hazard: It is harms with potential adverse effects on health that may occur through biological, physical
or chemical agents. Risk: It is the size and severity (probability level) of potential hazards that may
occur in food product. HACCP plan: It is the document that is prepared in accordance with HACCP
principles to make sure that hazards that are important in terms of food safety of the related product
during production processes are under control. Decision tree: It is the logical series of questions-
answers used to determine whether a phase in which a certain hazard is controlled is a “critical control
point” or not.
Control Point (CP): It is the step where a hazard is reduced if it is under control.
Critical Control Point (CCP): It is the process step where controls can be applied to determine and
prevent potential hazards that may occur in the food chain, to reduce them to acceptable limits or
eliminate them. Critical limit: It is the limit of a condition between “acceptable” or “not acceptable”.
Monitoring: It is observing whether or not critical control points are controlled within a plan.
Verification: It is determining whether or not a control system is carried out according to a
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predetermined system, and using monitoring, test processes and methods including sampling and
analysis methods.
Preventive Action: It is the process carried out to eliminate the causes of possible errors or undesirable
situations or to prevent their occurrence.
Corrective action: It is the process that needs to be applied when critical limits are determined to
exceed at critical control points. Correction of incompliance: It is previously written activity that is
applied to incompliant situation (product, process, organization) to eliminate incompliance.
Inspection: It is the control activities such as examination, monitoring, sampling etc. that are
conducted to determine whether or not food facilities comply with technical and hygienic
requirements specified in relevant regulations, and whether or not the materials, tools and equipment
that will come into contact with food products produced in these facilities are used in compliance with
hygienic rules..
HACCP application is based on 7 basic principles. These principles are actually consecutive
activities;
1st Principle (Hazard analysis): For this purpose, firstly a HACCCP team consisted of the facility
employees is established. In the team, at least one person must have HACCP certification. One
microbiology specialist, one production manager, one management representative, one sales and/or
customer representative should be included in the HACCP team. Job descriptions of these people are
identified, then a detailed flow chart for the activities to be applied in the facility is prepared and
potential hazards that may occur at each process step are determined. It is not necessary to include all
theoretical hazards that come to mind in the scope of the HACCP work. However, all the hazards are
specified and important ones are picked. This selection is carried out by the HACCP team. While this
decision is made, two key questions are assed:
What is the risk of the hazard?
What is the severity/significance of the hazard?
2nd Principle: Determination of Critical Control Points (CCP): On the prepared flow chart, the points
that generate a potential environment for occurrence of any hazard or where that hazard can be
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completely eliminated are determined. In order to find out whether or not these points are critical
points, it is usually sufficient to ask a single question: “Will a hazard detected at this stage be eliminated
with another process in the future?” If the hazard can only be eliminated at this stage, it is a critical
control point. If the hazard will be eliminated in the future stages, it is not a critical control point.
3rd Principle: Determination of critical limits: The HACCP team should set a limit for each critical control
limit that would reflect an acceptable lower and/or upper limit. In addition, in order to ensure that
these limits are achieved at all times, sometimes more tighter “target values” can be set.
4th Principle: Establishment of a “monitoring and control system”: For this purpose, control methods
that would be quickly performed and provide important information for every raw material and
process steps that have been determined as critical control points and it should be determined at what
frequency and by whom these methods should be applied. These methods are usually preferred as
easily monitored physical analyses such as heat control or pH measurement, however sometimes
certain microbiological or chemical analyses can be monitoring methods.
5th Principle: Corrective Actions: In cases where critical limits determined at critical control points are
exceeded, the actions to be carried out should be previously determined.
6th Principle: Verification of the System: At this stage, firstly the accuracy of the HACCP plan should be
scientifically checked, then it should be verified whether or not the plan effectively works. The
operations that fulfill these two requirements comprise “verification” activities. Because, even if a
successful and accurate HACCP analysis is performed, this does not prove that the system works
effectively. Therefore, a facility itself should constantly keep its HACCP system under control through
its “internal controllers” and sometimes should have it inspected by neutral third persons or third
parties.
7th Principle: Keeping Records and Documentation: Beginning with the stage of establishment, any
type of monitoring and control activity records for the HACCP system should be kept and should be
presented to both the facility’s own personnel and the third parties inspecting the system from outside
when necessary. In addition to the fact that documentation is essential for continuation of the system,
it also provides statistical data on deviations from the set limits for critical control points. The records
comprise critical control point monitoring analyses results, incompliance-deviation-consumer
complaints-recall records, implementations and revisions of corrective actions. The HACCP documents,
on the other hand, consist of the HACCP plan and hazard analysis sheets, references indicating critical
limits for critical control points.
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Applications
HACCP plans comprise a unique road map for the facility to follow in order to ensure food safety in
its products. If there are differences in two different facilities that produce same product in terms of
their facility properties, layouts, machine equipment, and the technologies they implement, their
HACCP plans can also be different. In addition, since potential hazards can be different for each product
depending on specific raw materials and processes, a specific HACCP plan should be prepared for each
product or product group having common characteristics. Therefore, in the facilities where different
products are produced, a separate HACCP plan should be prepared for each product or product group.
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stays like that for 1 hour, then again 2 kg are added. The pressing operation runs for a period of time
among 4 to 6 hours, while considering to avoid fissuring.
• Curd is cutted into molds with dimension 11x11 cm
• In a separate bowl the brine is prepared from coarse sea salt. Measure is by experience and
the salt is added by hand, having on mind to put more salt in this “spring” cheese and less in the one
made in late summer. The molds remain in brine for 12 hours to get salt equally.
• Molds are laid down in cans (tin, isolated on the inside by white color), where at the bottom
coarse salt is placed primarily, than a row of cheese molds, than again a layer of coarse salt, row of
cheese, continuing like that to the top of the can, until the bin is full. Then pour it with brine which has
2-3% weaker concentration of salt.
• Thus, the cheese ripening period is 2-3 months while constantly checking if the brine has
formed some scum on the surface. If it does, scum is removed and supplemented with new brine with
the same concentration.
• If additional amounts of brine are needed, it can be made from whey which is left for 2-3 days
in a warm room to get sour, than adding 80-90 grams of salt per 1 liter. Addition brine can be made by
salt water and adding citric, lactic or tartaric acid
• The room in which brine cheese matures is desirable to have a relative humidity of 70-80% in
order to avoid greater quantity loss during storage.
• The optimal fermentation temperature for this type of cheese is 15-16 °C in the first 20-30 days
and then 5-10 °C until the end of ripening.
• This cheese is maturated for around 60 days (2-3 months), all along placed in brine. These
cheese producer keeps it in not strictly controlled temperature conditions, in the basement of his
house and therefore at the end cheese can vary in its quality.
Organoleptic characteristics of White Brine Cheese are as follows: In appearance it has typically
white cheese mass, quite compact but soft and slick, including liquid part. It has no rind, but flat surface
which is not glassy but on contrary there can be marks/fingerprints from the draining cloth. Lactic acid
smell, with nice fresh aroma and smell which is characteristic for sheep milk. Salty taste and smooth,
the milk fat is nicely distributed and can be easily sensed
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from the milk aimed for Bieno Cheese production. According some literature details, this cheese was
invented by the Vlach sheepherders and was known as “Vlach’s cheese”. There are also some stories
that during the Ottoman Empire in this areas the fat from the milk was collected as a tax, so to use the
rest of the milk and not throw it away, farmers started making this cheese which nowadays is produced
from whole milk, but milk that originates from late lactation which is also low on fat. This producers
start making it in mid-July and August, when the total amount of milk collected reaches 70 liters.
Another characteristic is that it is quite salty and the legend says it is made as that on purpose because
the local population was poor so that way they could not eat very much of it and on the other hand to
be stored/conserved for longer period.
Processing
• Sheep milk at a temperature of 30°С, (very often without previous heating) is placed in an
stainless steel tub where the curdling process is performed for a period of 30 to 50 minutes. It is used
commercial rennet Albamax Granular (with a strength of 1:1800). The amount added is according the
declaration.
• The processing of the curdled mass begins by “beating” it with a special tool (kj'urkalo). It is a
wooden stick, quite long, that on the one site end up with a perforated circle. The curd is beaten 150
times (three series of 50 hits with 5 minutes breaks). During that time, a part of the fat is separated
and removed, while the rest of the curdled mass achieves a shape of thick clotted cream in which the
cheese grains gain a size of larger sand grains. Sometimes this wooden tool is displaced with large knife
where the curdled mass is cut in small pieces.
• In such condition, the curdling mass is left for twenty minutes or so, and afterwards the
steaming process begins. It is made with boiling water.
• After being steamed, the curdled mass is mixed so the hot water can spread wider in the bowl.
• The curdling mass is gathered at the bottom of the wooden tub, and the separated whey is
removed.
• The kneading of the curdling mass is done in the same tub, while the mass is still warm and is
shaped by hand in a ball-like form, which is then removed and drained.
• The removal of extra whey is done by pressing with a wooden table-like plate
• This process lasts for 10 hours, during which a crust is formed
• Each loaf of shaped cheese is placed in special flat containers where it remains for 2-3 days,
while it is placed on warm place, traditionally under the sun or on a temperature of 30°C. During that
time the cheese is maturing. At the same time the cheese gains wax-like yellow colour.
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• Afterwards, the loaves are cut in 5-6 cm thick pieces and then dry salted.
• Brine is poured over the cheese and the process of maturing continues for one month.
According to the features, texture and technology this cheese belongs to the group of non-pressed
hard cheeses, and in accordance with the way it matures and is being stored it can belong to the group
of sour and salty chesses matured in brine. It is recognized as most authentic Macedonian cheese, that
nowadays is widely consumed in the country, but in smaller quantities because of its specific and salty
taste, as an aperitif along with rakija.
Tuma Macagn
Macagn cheese has been made for time unmemorable. It takes its name from a mountain pasture
situated in the municipality of Riva Valdobbia, between the provinces of Biella, Valsesia and Valle
d’Aosta. Its main characteristic is that it is made at every milking, a method that probably evolved
because of the need to take advantage of the milk’s natural temperature. Macagn cheese is produced
throughout the year using cow’s milk, within the Valsesia Mountain Community, though the presidia
refers only to the one produced in the mountain pastures.
Processing
Cow’s raw milk, from a single milking stage, is heated in a copper cauldron where later calf’s rennet
is added. No additives or enzymes are allowed. Once the milk has coagulated and while the cauldron
is still being heated the curd is broken into very small pieces, using a wooden tool. The curd is then
lightly heated, semi-cooked, at a temperature that goes between 40 and 52°C, depending on the time
of the year. The curd is left to rest for no longer than 5 minutes, then it is placed in the moulds, hand
pressed and then turned up to five times. At the last turn a disk with the logo certifying the cheese
origin is placed, in order to mark each form.
Ageing
Ageing lasts for at least 20 days and takes place in stone spaces called crote or crotin, with tiled
floors, using wooden shelves. Raw milk Macagn ages for at least 60 days, in order to comply with
regulations on raw milk. The rind is thin and smooth, and may present mould. The colour varies from
straw-yellow to grey, tinged with yellow or orange. The body is compact, with a few scattered eyes.
Straw-yellow in colour, it tends to gold as maturing progresses. Because it is made twice daily in
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summer, Macagn is particularly fragrant, the nose revealing notes of flowers and meadow grass.
Generally a medium-mature cheese, macagn is at its best after ageing for three to five months.
Sales
Two of the producers involved are helped by youngsters, who intend to continue the activity
afterwards. Amongst the producers, two are women and overall, women play an important part in the
preparation of cheese.
There is an annual production on 2800 forms, distributed as follows:
Local 25%
Regional 50%
National 25%
Sales are distributed as follows:
Fairs 40%
Shops 30%
Direct sale 20%
Restaurants 10%
Mountain pasture Macagn is sold wholesale at 14€ per kilo while the retail price is 20€ per kilo.
Farmhouse Macagn is sold wholesale at 11€ per kilo while the retail price is 15€ per kilo. A big part has
been played by the retail company Eataly, who has been promoting this cheese with great success in
its premises.
Livestock
The cattle raised belongs to the following breeds: brown alpine, grey alpine and Italian red pied
(Pezzata rossa d’Oropa). The majority of animals are bred in the farm (70%). In spring, summer and
autumn, animals are put out to pasture while they are kept in barns during the winter season and
chained to their trough, to avoid being bruised by horns, which are never cut off. During the warm
season animals feed on the pasture, while in winter they are given forage and hay, half of which is
produced within the farm and the rest (some corn) is bought in the Monferrato area. No silage or GMO
forage are used. Animal waste is reused to fertilize the fields.
There is a total of 47 animals and there are currently 3 producers involved in the Presidium.
Hygiene standards
The producers have a good relationship with the local health authorities though they are quite
strict. They have a simplified HACCP manual, easy to follow. The dairy is quite small and annexed to
the barn. With the help of the local health authorities they have managed to adapt the space they have
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and turn it into a dairy complying with regulations. The ageing cell is separate and they have
derogations regarding the use of wooden shelves and the presence of stone floors in the cellar. The
whole dairy adaptation has been possible thanks to regional funds. They are in the process of finishing
work in the mountain pasture dairy, financially helped by the local mountain community. At the
moment, producers fear to lose the European health mark in the valley premises, as the water given
to the animals is too rich in iron and they would have to make some changes to the water pipes, a cost
that they can’t cover at the moment.
Findings and conclusions
Over the years, the quality of the cheese has improved thanks to the producers’ coordinator, who
is also the technician for the surrounding Mountain communities. He has been conducting analysis on
the milk and the final product with the purpose of obtaining a product with constant organoleptic
characteristics. The quality of the product has also improved as a consequence of changing the cheese
refiner; thanks to higher checks during the ageing phase, Macagn has less mites on the surface.
Producers have highlighted the importance of sharing the knowledge on raw milk, as the myth of it
being harmful to humans is still alive, particularly amongst the surrounding communities. In order to
push sales, one of the producers is thinking of getting the Organic mark, as it represents a further
guarantee for the consumer.
Roccaverano Robiola
In the Langa Astigiana and the area around Acqui Terme, this cheese was once known as
furmagetta, robiola or arbiora. It was traditionally prepared by women, using goat’s milk, sometimes
with the addition of a little sheep’s milk. The women would sell the cheese at the market or to local
traders, and use the income to buy sugar, coffee, pasta and oil. Then, in 1979, a DOC (controlled
denomination of origin) defined a production protocol and the production area, but allowed the use
of up to 85% of cow’s milk, thus denaturing the cheese’s tradition. The DOP obtained later allowed a
maximum of 50% cow’s milk, but a small group of cheesemakers continues to make the cheese using
pure goat’s milk, like it was made 200 years ago. The Slow Food Presidium protects the small-scale
producers who pasture their animals and make Roccaverano Robiola only from raw goat’s
milk.Produced in the Southern part of the Langhe area, between the provinces of Asti and Alessandria,
it is made from the beginning of March to the first half of December.
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Process
Roccaverano Robiola is made from whole raw goat’s milk and calf’s rennet. No additives or enzymes
are allowed. The technique sees the use of lactic leaven: milk taken in the evening is brought to a
temperature between 20-22°C and is left to acidify for 8-10 hours in plastic or steel containers. The
following day, fresh milk is added and the acidification process continues at 8°C. Calf’s rennet is then
added and the mix is left to rest for about 24 hours. The curd is gently broken with a perforated spoon
and the moulds are filled. After about 15 hours the forms are salted with medium grained salt, they
are turned and salted on the other side. After another 12 hours, the form is taken out of its shaping.
Ageing
After three days at a temperature between 15-20°C, the robiola is packed and dated. The maximum
ageing period is 7 days in conditioned spaces at 12-14°C. When eaten fresh, Roccaverano Robiola offers
an uncomplicated sensory profile. The nose has attractive notes of yoghurt, early sprouting grass and
hazelnuts, introducing a palate of astonishing appeal and flavour. When mature, the cheese has fainty
goaty nuances, and the nose foregrounds meadow and wild plant aromas. The palate is lifted by
piquant and mossy notes, acquiring length and fullness in the finish.
Sales
The producer visited (Cooperativa Agricola La Masca) is composed of three people under 40, two
of them being women.
20% of robiola cheese produced is commercially sold within the farm at 5€ each. They also
distribute it to restaurants, holiday farms, shops and purchasing groups in Turin and Milan. Distribution
is mainly handled by the farm itself, with only a couple of intermediaries dealing with 2% of production.
Livestock
There are 40 goat kids and 70 lactating goats belonging to the Camosciata breed, the Roccaverano
breed (more rustic) and their hybrids. Animals are fed with corn, barley, triticale and broad beans (only
for lactating goats), hay produced by La Masca (300 bales per year) and local farmers. Animals are
taken out at pasture everyday, over 9 hectares of land.
Hygiene standards
The HACCP manual has been designed by the producers themselves. As approved by the local
health authorities, they do not disinfect the tools used but thoroughly wash them using soda, to
remove grease. This allows to preserve good bacteria and avoid using enzymes to make cheese. When
they first started the dairy production they also had some problems making the cheese, as milk lacked
the bacteria, due to excessive cleanliness of the premises, but they have not reported any problems
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since. They have some derogations with regards to the number of samples analysed by the local health
authorities, since they never had any problems with their milk, they now test one sample of milk a
year. The dairy was built from scratch, self-planned with the help of the local veterinaries; since the
dairy is far from the barns, they have less risks of infestations. The veterinarian has helped them saving
extra works, adapting the space as needed. For instance, the brick ceiling has been layered with a
specific paint to prevent it from crumbling, rather than covering it all with cement. In order to be fully
complying the law, they should have a retail area and a toilet in the dairy premises, but at the moment
they lack the economic resource to do that. They also need to build an area reserved to animal waste
and need a storage area for hay. They now need to look more into a new law concerning sales by
weight, which proves to be difficult as raw milk cheese loses weight over time.
Findings and conclusions
Producers admitted they had a lot of help from the veterinarian and the local health authorities,
who have simplified things to facilitate small producers. Following procedures and regulations has not
proved difficult, since they have designed their HACCP manual around their production and needs.
Given the new works they have to carry out in order to be fully complying the law, they have had to
slightly increase the cheese price so as to cover all the expenses they are having at the moment.
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karın fat cheese, Motal (Pressing the skin's fat cheese), Tuluk (Çeçil and skin filled curd), pickled head,
Mixed Tulum (Çeçil, curd, fat head and oily skin or rough up the mixture to fill the bins).
The village, 50 km away from Kars, is in the northwest of the province. Located between 2,200 and
2,840 meters above sea level, livestock and dairy (cheese making) are performed in the village.
Boğatepe village is known as one of the cheese center inhabited by a combination of different ethnic
backgrounds and maintained animal breeding practices by the participants.
In registered 5 dairies, old cheddar, cheddar, gruyere, Çeçil cheese are also produced in the village.
Moreover, about 10 varieties of cheese are produced for domestic consumption. There is a cheese
museum called Ekomüze Zavot (It is known as the first cheese museum in Anatolia.) in the village.
Varieties of cheese produced in the village are cheddar cheese, old cheddar, fresh cheddar, heart
cheddar, gruyere cheese, pot cheese, motal cheese, stranded cheese with stranded mixed bag,
abdominal-fat dairy evil cheese, head brine, dry salting head, feta cheese and gurut.
Interview with Altun Koçulu, b.1927, Boğatepe Village
She has five children. She moved into Boğatepe village after her marriage. She herself made
all the cheeses made in the village and she has the knowledge about how to do.
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If the milk is soured in making old cheddar or curd maturation is delayed due to weather conditions,
the cheese is subjected to a new process not to have the feature of standard cheddar cheese in this
case.
• Slice the cheese 1 cm thick.
• Stack the skin with Çeçil and sliced cheese in layers.
• Incubate 1-2 months and consume.
Gruyere Tulum
• Gruyere cannot be shipped to market when there is a problem in manufacturing process.
• Pass it through the meat grinder.
• Stir an amount of unsalted curd
• Salt a little.
• Put the cheese into skin.
• Ready for consumption after waiting 2-3 months.
Kars Gruyere
At the production stage, the cheese does not accept cheating. It needs a careful production process.
Milking place should close to the factories that produce the Gruyere. Milk should be carried carefully
and it should not be significantly affected by weather conditions and most importantly, it must be very
fresh.
• Milk.
• Keep it at 32-34 °C.
• Ferment after 34 °C and incubate it for 45 minutes.
• Control yeast in two ways: check the viscosity of the cheese with fingers or check the cheese in the
boiler.
• When the yeast is formed, the green water comes out from the corners. This is an indication that the
yeast is done.
• Divide the cheese into four and keep it for 10 minutes.
• The water comes out.
• Slice it in corn size with knife called harbi* and keep it for 5 minutes more.
• mix it with ladles. It lasts 25- 30 minutes it can last 15 minutes depending on the tempo of the mixer.
It gets hard.
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• Cook.
• When temperature reaches 45 degrees, the gas is opened twice for the freezing of harmful bacteria
in the milk.
• Close the heat but don’t remove the boiler surrounding with bricks.
• The cheese is infused for 15 to 30 minutes with the heat of brick.
• Put it under the vise. A pressure of about 100 pounds lasts for 5 minutes.
• The second press lasts between 15 minutes and then replace the cheese cloth. After each press the
vise and cloth are changed.
• The third press lasts 30 minutes, fourth press lasts 2 hours, and the fifth lasts for 5-6 hours. The sixth
takes 7-8 hours. Take it to the last cloth to complete 24 hours. Put a stone for pressure.
• Add salt and put it to the basin.
• In the first 24-hour, it drains.
• In the second 24- hour, it gets harder.
• Add the rock salt to the water and boil and transfer the water into the basin.
• Take the cheese into the basin when it is ready and keep it in the hot water for 4 days. Add salt when
it reduces.
• Take the cheese from the basin and place it to the sauna which is fixed at 28 °C.
• In the first two days, the cheese gets sweet. Drain its water in the sauna.
• Turn the mold every day and clean the sweat.
Turn it on its axis once in a day and overturn it once every two days. Each side can function equally.
• Take the cheese to a cool place to mature after remaining ten days to a month in sauna
• Add salt systematically for 90 days here.
• take the cheese to the shelves in a room where the highest temperature is at 12 ° C and keep it for 3
months.
• Gruyere maturation lasts 2 years. Shelf life of cheese lasts 4 years if stored in appropriate conditions.
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to the bottom. The boiler is heated to 40 ° C. Cheese and water are separated by drum filtration
machine. Pieces of cheese are taken to the tin and 200 kg blocks are made. Put a weight on it. It drains
again all the water resolve while keeping it 45 minutes. This is a white cheese.
It is fell into pieces in the chopping machine and is kept 2 hours for draining. It is re-fragmented and
cooked at 80 ° C. Salt rate is 5% in the tin. It is cooked for 2-3 minutes in this way. When cooked, pieces
combine. It is removed from the boiler and is knead on the bench. Add 160 g of salt to 13 kg of cheese
and is knead. The salt is dissolved and the cheese absorbs the salt. This is the proportion of old cheese
to be stored for 2 years to maintain flavor. Then place the cheese into the molds and it is kept for 24
hours. It is kept in a cool salting room for one week after taken from the mold. The result is fresh
cheddar. Incubate 1.5 months more, if you want to have old cheddar.
During this time, transfer and add salt from time to time. First of all, it stays in single layer and then
place another on top of the wheel. Incubate for 5 days. Incubate 45-day after stacking third layer. Pack
and Send to cold storage warehouse. Consume in less than 2 years. Then it starts to deteriorate.
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• add Çeçil first to the skin. This is to make the skin air proof.
• Place fat head cheeses as a whole on it.
• slice some heads and stack firmly but carefully, without breaking.
• put Çeçil on the top and tie the Tulum thoroughly.
• Put the Tulum into a cool place, and incubate for 2-3 months here.
Special note: Skin selection is important. Diseased animals’ skin should not be used. Skin must be firm
(solid, not torn) and fatty.
Çeçil
Use Sweet and sour milk use in equal amounts. After taking Çeçil out, keep for 1-2 hours hanged. Put
in salted water if you will consume immediately. If it will be placed in Tulum, add salt and put in basin.
But do not hold much; because it turns yellow when exposed to air that prevents to obtain the desired
flavor in winter.
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• Cheese incubated in the wells for 5-6 months is ready for consumption.
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Kurut
Deri Tuluk (fill fatty or çürük)
Fatty sheep's cheese in cruses
Karın cheese (puş cheese)
Lor (anzilat, obtained by boiling whey, sometimes consumed fresh and sometimes was put to skin
mixed with çürük)
Gorcola
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Interview with Said Küçük (Sadık Miskini), b.1964, Şahindere Mah. Kağızman
He collects cheese from the villagers. And he sells them with or without a process (making skin bottle,
making water drum, brine) in Kağızman. He is both a manufacturer between consumers and producers
and also cheese maker from cheese.
Kağızman in the first place herby cheese was made. It is seen in Urartu research. It is known that 4
kinds of cheese made in the district. These are new products based on their makings. Çeçil, Tel cheese,
head cheese: Fatty cheese, delema (in Turkmen language), beravut. Beravut is also called as kasar
(cheddar cheese) and the name is used by domestic, Turkmen and Kurdish groups. Lor: çürük and churn
bottom. Kurut is no longer made in Kağızman. They make Lor and butter of fall (butter) from winter
milk but they cannot make Çeçil in the cold weather.
Beravut
Beravut is a fatty cheese matured in skin bag. It was made from sheep’s milk in the past. But it is made
from cow's milk now. Sometimes skin bags are placed on ashes for draining. But today beravut is 80%
put in drums. Beravut is also made with herbs. Beravut can be made from May to the end of August.
But the best milk for beravut is milked on July and August. During this period, the region is full of plenty
of grass and flowers which makes beravut fatty. Beravut can be sold from November on. Beravut is
also the general name of the summer and fall butter and cheese.
Milk Sheep (or cow). Put the milk immediately in boiler without any process.
• Yeast, close the lid, and incubate 1-1.5 hours.
• After it is yeasted drain and put in a cloth bag.
• put a stone on the bag for 30-60 minutes.
• take the stone from the bag and take cheese out. This is a head cheese, also called beravut.
• cut into big pieces, and add salt.
• add head cheese in a row in Tuluğ; put a row of unsalted churn Lor (also called churn bottom).
Optionally, use bruised Lor.
• Tie the lid and store upside down in a cold place for 3 months.
Fatty cheese
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Fatty cheese is the Cheese which cannot be put in Tuluk. Drench to şor water and incubate in brine a
year. It is called as white cheese (feta cheese) in Keçivan.
• milk Sheep (nowadays cow); put the milk immediately in boiler without any process.
• Yeast, close the lid, and incubate 1-1.5 hours.
• After it is yeasted drain and put in a cloth bag.
• put a stone on the bag for 30-60 minutes.
• take the stone from the bag and take cheese out. This is a head cheese, also called beravut.
• prepare şor (salt water).
•Drench head cheese into şor water.
• If desired, it can be consumed immediately or can be stored in brine for 1 year.
Preparing şor water: The salty water sources in Kağızman are called "şor water". Prepare Brine from
this water. 2 mugs of şor water + 1 mug normal water (tap water).
Çürük Lor
Çürük Lor is obtained by the rotten milk. It is Fat free.
• incubate Milk for 2 days.
• boil on the stove.
• don’t touch until it is cool.
• When cool, fill into cloth and hang and drain.
Herbed Cheese and Herbed Lor
Herbed cheese is made from 4 kinds of herbs in Kağızman: Kımı (an herb can be made pickle), sirim,
Mendek (Kurds say Mendık) and mountain onion also known as braz. Add Herbs to teleme after boiling.
If you add raw herbs, they give cheese a green color. These are the villages where herbed cheese is
made in Kağızman: Çiçekli Village, Değirmendere Village, Karaboncuk (Kasor) Village which is a Kurdish
village, Akören (Agveren) Village which is a Kurdish village, Çengilli Village which was an Armenian
village, Aydınkavak (Pifik) Village: this village makes butter and cheese very nice.
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Çeçil cheese
You can make Çeçil in each month of the year. But you can make TULUK cheese only from May to
August.
• milk cow, churn the milk, separate from the buttermilk.
• put Skim milk in boiler; incubate at room temperature for 1 day.
• The next day milk new milk, separate from the buttermilk.
• add new milk at the same amount of the soured milk.
• put the Milk on stove, add 1 teaspoon of yeast.
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• When the drum is full, remove the cheese, and wash with cold water so that sour and salt doesn’t
remain.
•wash cheese and put on the table. Lay a cloth and put a wooden tray on it. Incubate in this state for
1 day.
• On the other hand, shred kımı grass and pennyroyal leaves, dip in hot water without waiting.
• The next morning take the tray and Shred the cheese
• shuffle Cheese and herb and add salt.
•put it in sheep Tuluk and tie the lid.
• put on a wooden bench upside down. Bench should be in a cold place.
• incubate here 1-2 months.
• It drains first, and then dries thoroughly.
White cheese
It is a kind of cheese which is made of cow’s milk between May and August.
• milk cow, put the milk immediately in boiler without any process.
• Yeast, close the lid, and incubate 1-1.5 hours.
• When it is yeasted, drain it and put in a bag.
• apply pressure for 30-60 minutes.
• remove pressure, take the cheese out, and slice.
• prepare şor water (salt water).
• incubate Cheese for 1-1.5 hours in the water.
• transfer to a bucket or drum.
• transfer the cheese made every day to the bucket.
Tel cheese
It can be consumed immediately and also can remain 2-3 years.
• churn Cow milk in the machine; incubate for souring until the following morning.
• Transfer to the boiler the next morning.
• add milk (fresh milk) milked on that morning.
• When the milk reaches about 35C temperature add yeast.
• cook and stir until it solidifies.
• When it becomes in dough form Remove and transfer into a wooden basin.
• knead, cut into pieces.
• add warm whey.
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• make rings of Cheese (dough) in warm water. This is a long and difficult process.
• As water cools add hot whey.
• Until the cheese turns into stringy form turn in the hand and keep adding water.
• add salt From time to time (Kağızman salt gives the best results) rub.
• tie when the strings are thin enough.
• fill the drum in a row; whey rises to the top.
• prepare şor water and whey.
• If there is no whey raising that means cheese is dehydrated. At this stage, add şor water.
• You can consume, or you can incubate.
Lor (Churn Lor)
• Milk cow, drain milk into a bucket, close the lid.
• incubate 1-2 days to ferment.
• After fermentation pour into the churn.
•remove buttermilk from the top. Boil.
Yeast Making
• boil thyme and take its water.
• Clean cow’s or sheep’s craw.
• leave the craw in thyme water, wait until fermentation.
• Drain after fermentation, use water as yeast.
Making Tuluk Cheese
Add Salt the sheep skin with village salt
Hang it and wait until it gets dry
Put it into water and wait until it gets soft
Take it and clean then hang it and dry it next day.
Sew its bottom when it is still wet.
Local Herbs: Reddish, Yemlik, Kaytaran, Ferula, Çiriş, Evelik (Dried), Nettle, Hibiscus, Bullthorn, Kekire,
Kabalak.
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Tuluk (eyar), Fatty cheese made from sheep tripe (beyniri hur), Çoma çökeleği, (two kinds taken from
yogurt and raw milk)
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As you can eat it fresh you can also consume it after 2 years incubation.
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Teller
They are those who know best about what are being done in the village as a result of the interviews
we have done in the village
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When you empty the pockets put some salt and incubate in for a few days
When it is as big as it could full a big bowl rub it
Salt it
Incubate it for 15 hours
Knead it with butter and cream by 10-30 percent
Balance the rate of salt
Put it into basin
Put it on a high position so that it can get air and wind
Incubate it for 2 months. You can consume it for 1 year.
Preparing Lamb Rumen
Clean rumen well
Turn it down to release its smell and incubate it
Following day cover it with dough and clean it clearly
Salt and hang it and drain it
If needed heat it again and put wet cheese in it
Çeçil cheese
Milk.
It is drained and taken its oil from the machine.
Keep the non-fat milk for 5-6 days.
Add some sweet milk (freshly milked) and it is heated.
Add the whey as it gets warm.
The curd gathers on the water.
Mix with a wooden spoon.
When it gets dough, knead it in a bowl.
After kneading, hang it on a tree.
It is allowed to cool for 5-6 hours.
After removing it from the tree, put it into brine prepared before
Station: Ardahan
Cheese types made in the district:
Cheddar
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Çeçil
Heriye motal (heriye Tulum)
Çoma
Çürük
Fatty Head Cheese
Cruse cheese
Boşka
Şuşlama
Gorcola
Motal
Gruyere
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Consume freshly or add salt and put into skin and consume in winter.
Haço Cheese
it can be made from cow or sheep milk as imanlı and imansız(Skimmed and whole)
Mix Half soured and half fresh milk.
Add yeast.
Take the whey out with a ladle.
Add salt to the clot which is accumulated at the bottom and transfer into filter.
Incubate for one or two days.
You can consumefreshly after it is taken from the filter, or youcan put into clay cruses for
winter consuming.
Special note: Add brine water on it when it is made for winter consuming.
Şuşlama
It is a process made generally for the cheeses which are not consumed in winter, to avoid deteriorating.
Meltthe cheeses in a hot watered bowl; heat and stir.
After the cheeses are melted put them into a wooden plate.
Cool the cheese.
Slice before eating.
Special note: Don’t add salt since it is made from the old cheese.
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Conclusion
There are 30 kinds of cheese recipe. These cheeses listed and added to this report. 6 of these
are suggested to be presented to international market. We took detailed information and
recorded about all these cheese making processes; ripening(skin, cruse or drum) draining
methods, preserving methods, yeasting, slicing and cooking methods, draining, shaping or
brine methods.
White Cheese
It is a kind of cheese which is made of cow’s milk between May and August.
• milk cow, put the milk immediately in boiler without any process.
• Yeast, close the lid, and incubate 1-1.5 hours.
• When it is yeasted, drain it and put in a bag.
• apply pressure for 30-60 minutes.
• remove pressure, take the cheese out, and slice.
• prepare şor water (salt water).
• incubate Cheese for 1-1.5 hours in the water.
• transfer to a bucket or drum.
• transfer the cheese made every day to the bucket.
Kars Cheddar
Milk is gathered and is rested 5-10 minutes, and then it is taken to the separator and cleaned,
pasteurized. It is allowed to ferment in the fermentation tank at 32 ° C for 1 hour. It would be a soft
cheese. Break, and turn it into teleme (smashed). Keep it for half an hour and pieces of the cheese sink
to the bottom. The boiler is heated to 40 ° C. Cheese and water are separated by drum filtration
machine. Pieces of cheese are taken to the tin and 200 kg blocks are made. Put a weight on it. It drains
again all the water resolve while keeping it 45 minutes. This is a white cheese.
It is fell into pieces in the chopping machine and is kept 2 hours for draining. It is re-fragmented and
cooked at 80 ° C. Salt rate is 5% in the tin. It is cooked for 2-3 minutes in this way. When cooked, pieces
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combine. It is removed from the boiler and is knead on the bench. Add 160 g of salt to 13 kg of cheese
and is knead. The salt is dissolved and the cheese absorbs the salt. This is the proportion of old cheese
to be stored for 2 years to maintain flavour. Then place the cheese into the moulds and it is kept for
24 hours. It is kept in a cool salting room for one week after taken from the mould. The result is fresh
cheddar. Incubate 1.5 months more, if you want to have old cheddar.
During this time, transfer and add salt from time to time. First of all, it stays in single layer and then
place another on top of the wheel. Incubate for 5 days. Incubate 45-day after stacking third layer. Pack
and Send to cold storage warehouse. Consume in less than 2 years. Then it starts to deteriorate.
Turkmen Sacak Cheese (Turkmen Tel Cheese)
cow or sheep milk
Drain the milk.
Get the fat.
Incubate it to ferment for one day.
Add fresh milk at the same rate and put in on the fire in the following day.
When it reaches 34-40 degree add some yeast in it.
After 30 minutes, the milk is mixed with wooden ladle and brought into dough like form.
Put whey into a bowl.
When dough is ok put it into that bowl.
Turn the cheese and make it like a circle.
Keep doing this for 30 minutes without delay.
After the progress the cheese will be like a line.
Put into the brine water.
As you can eat it fresh you can also consume it after 2 years incubation.
Boşka Sheep Cheese (Feta)
The name of Feta is an indication of the presence of Greek history in the region; because cheese is
made almost the same way of Greece’s Feta. You can make feta from May to July. After November it
becomes edible.
• Milk Sheep milk.
• Strain and ferment.
• put in a cloth (cheesecloth) without shredding. Cloth (cheesecloth) does not allow the fragmentation
of teleme; if you put teleme in a bag it is easily broken.
• put a small stone on top.
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ANNEX II.
Equipment:
which have space from the inner side where warming up is performed with burner torches
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Half rooted in the ground, with two premises: Premise for salting and for ripening
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Technological process
- Into each pot (2 pots) 1000 liters of fresh milk are placed and heated up to 32°C (if necessary)
than 100 mg of rennet is added;
- The curd is cut with a wooden board on large cubes 30x30 cm;
- Stand still for 10-15 minutes;
- Cutting gently with harp 1x1 cm;
- Stands for another 15 minutes;
- Further crushing by harp until the size of rice (even smaller grains);
- Second warming with burner torch with the flame throwing between the wall’s stones and
the cauldron heating up to 55°C while harsh curd mixing with special round harp;
- Checking whether the grains are well roasted and then a draining cloth is thrown over the
table where the curd grains are gathered and transferred to the molds with the derrick;
- The pressing is performed with hand presses, four times with inversion and changing of the
draining cloth;
- The next day, the molds are salted by putting in brine in which has been placed large cubes
of salt, naturally found in the region;
Adding salt and putting it into the basin.
- In the first 24 hour, the cheese drains;
- In the second 24 hour, it gets harder;
- Add the rock salt to the water and boil it, than transfer the water into the basin;
- Take the cheese into the basin when it is ready and keep it in the hot water for 4
days;
- Add salt when it reduces;
- Take the cheese from the basin and place it into hot room which is fixed at 28°C;
- In the first two days, the cheese gets sweat;
- Turn the mold every day and clean the sweat. (Turn in on its axis once in a day and overturn
in once in every two days. Each side can function eqally.);
- After remaining ten days to a month in hot room take the cheese to a cool place to mature;
- Add salt systematically for 90 days here;
- Place the cheese to the shelves at 12°C and keep it there for 3 months;
- Gruyere maturation lasts 2 years. Shelf life of cheese lasts 4 years if stored in appropriate
conditions.
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Visiting a museum dedicated on Gruyere cheese production, whose technology was brought from the
Alps i.e. Switzerland, and in Kars it has tradition of production for 150 years.
Gravuyeri and Kasar Cheese producers attended the meeting and also milk producers from the
region who sell the milk to these processors while in the same time are members of the Association
of producers for these two types of cheese, characteristic for Kars region.
- Gruyere Cheese is produced only in the period May-July, because of the specificity and milk
quality, which influence directly the cheese taste and ripening. They use only the milk from
their domestic breed – zavod and only in that period, while pasturing and the first flowering
of the plants is present. After this period, pasturing adds another quality to the milk, so it is
bought and used for producing other cheese types.
- Mastitis problems are not present and somatic cells count is controlled every two months.
- The milking process is made by hand, most often
- Minimal ripening period for Gruyere Cheese is 6 months, while controlling quality starts after
the 40th day.
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- Cheese wheels are marked with specific colour made from plants and before salting in brine,
that way tracing ripening quality of the cheese made.
- Fresh cheese yield is around 10 l milk for 1 kg cheese
- Very often after 45-75 days of ripening they transport the cheese to Istanbul, where it is fully
ripened for another 1 – 1,5 year in a cool chamber.
- The price of fresh cheese is 7 euros/kg, and for Old Gruyere is 20 euros/kg.
CANAK cheese
They have tradition of production on this type of cheese for 20-25 years. Non-fat cow’s milk is
preferred. August, September and October are the best mouths to make this cheese. But it is made
also in each month of the year. If the milk fat is higher than average level, it is taken and used.
Process
- Raw caw milk is curdled with the natural pure rennet from the stomach of cattle.
- Keep the heat low under boiling temperature (T=55oC) when it curds, than while draining take
the remaining water gradually.
- Take the whole water and clot at the end.
- After cutting the curd and dropping, leave the curd to remain still in time of 5 minutes
- Add hot water on temperature of 40-45oC so the temperature of the curd is 40oC.
- After that, put the curd in moulds and drain on T=16 oC during one day, than salt it in brine.
- At first, concentration of salt in the brine is 20-22%. In this brine, cheese remains for one day
on room temperature. The second day, cheese is putted into less salty water with
concentration of 8-10% and kept in this water for 15 days. If possible, incubate it for 1 month.
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Specific note: you can ferment cheese in a little salty water for domestic consumption.
Photo 7 – Transferring curd into the moulds Photo 8 – Putting the cheese grains into
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Salting cheese
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For the production process it is used mixed milk – consisted of two components:
1) fermented milk (acidified milk which is fermented before a day of production) with
2) raw milk
heated on a temperature of 34-40°C. When temperature is 30-32°C, they put the rennet and don’t
wait for curdling. After putting in the rennet, they start mixing the curdling milk by hand.
Curdled cheese grains are gathered by hand and kneaded in another can/bowl, then
transferred in the caldron where the milk was curdled. It is heated continually and in the
same time baskija (the curdled mass drowned in hot water is called baskija) is stretched in a
shape of a circle, while the temperature in the caldron is already 60°C.
Stretching baskija is performed in a separate can/bowl which is half full with warm water, so
it can be scalded in a way, which enables for baskija to be hauled and processed.
Heating of the separated whey is continually performed, until the temperature reaches 74°C.
That way, the hauling of baskija is made uninterruptedly for 30 minutes until they start
looking alike strings.
After getting this shape, cheese is transferred in another can/bowl filled with cold and salty
water. That way it is salted.
The cheese can remain in the can for one week or less.
Another opportunity for its storage is if it gets dried. It is conserved in a way, but before
consumption it should be drowned in water, after which process the cheese gets taste
similar to Camembert.
Mixing fresh milk, with acidified milk Putting a rennet and mixing
from the previous day in the same time
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Dry salting of the strings Dry salting and dividing the strings
Sheep milk;
Strain and renneting;
Put in cloth without shredding. Cloth does not allow the fragmentation of teleme (baskija); if
you put teleme in a bag it is easily broken;
Put a small stone on the top;
Drain for about 3 hours;
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Cakmak cheese
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The cheese-making tradition in this village comes from the Malakan people, who once lived in the area.
The village of Çakmak even hosts one of the last Malakan houses in the area. The word Malakan, or
Molokan (from the Russian молокане, milk-drinker) was used to define a particular ethnic group that
settled in the second half of the 19th Century after the war with Russia split the area between the
Ottoman and the Russian empire. To compensate the fact that many Muslims migrated from the region
of Kars to reach Anatolia (who was under Ottoman control) the Russians introduced new groups to
settle in the area, and Malakans were amongst them. The definition as milk-drinkers comes from the
fact that this ethnic group consumed milk during the fasting period, and had therefore a long-
established milk and cheese-making tradition. Small dairy and farm owned by Mister Birol Kadirhan
and his family. They have 20-25 cows which they bought in the Netherlands in 1989. Each cow
produces roughly 20 litres of milk per day. This farm produces 400 litres of milk per day, 150 of which
are sold fresh daily. They produce 35 kilos of cheese per day. The producer is buying cheese from the
rest of the producers in the area.
Process
Calf’s rennet is added in the tank (20cc).
The tank is closed and wrapped in a blanket where it rests for 40 minutes, while the
temperature drops to 25°C. In the dairy there is also a bigger refrigerated tank where they
keep the milk from the night before with ice, though this looks more like frozen cheese.
The curd is poured in a cotton bag.
The leftover whey is used to make Lor (a sort of ricotta) or butter.
Once it has been poured in the cotton the curd is gently pressed several times by hand.
Afterwards, fresh water is poured on top of the mass to reduce proteolysis to avoid the
compacted effect.
The mass is pressed (25kg) for 2 hours.
Than, the cheese is put in brine in 20 litres of water with two stones of salt for a whole day.
The cheese is later kept in tins in brine for a year at a temperature of 4°C. This procedure is
exceptional, since most of the cheese is consumed fresh.
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Hand pressing the curd Washing with clear water Final pressing for 2 hours
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