Gel Manicure & Nail Artist

Module 5: Gel & Shellac Manicure

5.1 Gel Nails

5.1.1 Brief history of gel nails

In 1934, a dentist in Chicago was looking for a solution to the unsightly effects of nail biting and
created the first artificial nails with dental materials.

In 1957, porcelain nails were created made from the same porcelain that was used to make dental
crowns.

Over the years there has been lots of experimentation with different materials such as fibreglass and
silk to give greater flexibility and a more natural look to nails.

In 1980, specific materials for artificial nails were invented, but they were opaque and need to be
covered with nail varnish to make them look beautiful. They were called sculptured, acrylic or gel
nails.

In the 90's, gel nail products expanded to include the popular French manicure, more natural
finishes and to allow nails to be extended.

Currently, there are professionals who are dedicated solely to gel nails and nail art. It’s a growing
business that has a promising future, as personal image is becoming more and more important.\

Not only do women demand this service, it’s also popular with men who have bitten nails or even
among guitarists who use it to harden the natural nail.

5.1.2 What are gel nails?

Gel nails are the result of nearly 8 decades of research and an alternative to acrylic or porcelain nails.

Advantages of gel nails over other techniques:

Gel nail techniques are easy to apply and to train in. The gel is already prepared so you don’t need to
mix powders and liquids which require more experience.

They are odourless. Acrylic nails give off a chemical odour that can be unpleasant.
The materials are cheaper. With other nail techniques the final price was becoming expensive.

Gel respects the natural nail. It’s flexible and, when removed, doesn’t damage or weaken the nail.

5.1.3 What materials do I need?

The minimum necessary for a kit to get started sculpting gel nails is:

1. Nail polish remover or acetone, to remove excess enamel and gel.

2. A UV Lamp – this is the lamp that is used to dry the gel layers.

3. Gel Base or Primer - the first layer applied on the natural nail.

4. Sculpting or modelling Gel to sculpt moulds or tips. There are several transparent colours like pink,
white and ultra white. It dries under the UV lamp and has no odour.

5. Brushes to apply the gel. These are found in different sizes and models and are cleaned with a
specific product.

6. Moulds: used to sculpt the nail. Must be specific for gel nails.

7. Nail files: you’ll need files of various grits for each step of the process.

8. 4 sided file / polisher: used for polishing and smoothing the nail.

9. Orange stick a tool to push back the cuticle. You can find them in metal, plastic or orange wood,
which is used because it’s not affected by contact with water unlike other woods.

10. Brush: to remove dust after filing.

11. Antiseptic: to remove bacteria from the nail and remove the oil some products leave behind that
would cause gel layers to peel off.

12. Cleanser: to clean brushes and surfaces.

13. Cuticle Oil: to moisturise cuticles and apply at the end of the process.

14. Top Gel: the finishing gel for the final layer.

5.2 Step by step instructions for sculpted gel nails with French manicure:

1. Firstly, remove nail polish with remover and cotton.

2. With the Orange stick, push back the cuticles and remove them.

3. File the entire surface of the nail with a padded, 180 grit file.

4. With a brush, remove any dust remaining after filing.

5. Apply liquid primer disinfectant to the surface of the nail and wait for it to dry.

6. Take the first base gel and apply, nail by nail.

7. Dry the nails with the UV lamp.

8. Place moulds on each finger just below the nail.

9. Ask your customer how she wants her nails. What length? Round, square or pointed?

10. Using a brush and gel builder, start to create gel nails finger by finger, always in order.

11. Whn you have finished the first hand, ask your client to reach into the lamp and allow the nails to
dry for 5 minutes
12. Do the same procedure with the second hand

13. Rmove the moulds

14. Clean excess gel with cotton and nail polish remover

15. Shape the nails with a padded 100-180 grit file.

16. Smooth and even the surface of the nail with a 4 sided file / buffer.

17. Remove filing dust with cotton dipped in nail polish remover.

18. If your customer wants a French manicure, proceed with the following steps:

19. With white gel and brush, paint crescent shaped on the extended part of the finger nail20. Allow
to dry for 2 minutes in the UV lamp.

21. Apply transparent gel with a brush nail by nail.

22. Allow to dry for 5 minutes under the lamp.

23. Finish off the nail shape with a padded file and buffer.

24. Again, clean with cotton wool and nail polish remover to remove dust.

25. Apply "Top gel" nail by nail and allow to dry for 5 minutes.

26. Moisturises the cuticles with special cuticle oil.

5.3 Maintaining and filling:

Maintaining gel nails must be done in your salon. Every two or three weeks (depending on the
natural growth of the nail) filling is needed.

This means to fill the space created by the growth of the nail and recreate the nails to look as good
as their first day.

If an accident has broken any nails, they will also need repairing.

1. Clean the nails with nail polish remover and cotton.

2. Use an orange stick to push back the cuticles.

3. Polish the nail surface to remove the gel with a padded, 100-180 grit file.

4. Remove filing dust with a brush.

5. Apply liquid primer disinfectant and wait for it to dry.

6. Apply base nail gel.

7. With the builder gel and a brush, apply a very thin layer and allow to dry for 5 minutes in the
lamp.

8. In the event of a broken or damaged nail, you must follow all the steps to creating a new nail.

9. Wipe the nail with nail polish remover and cotton pad to remove excess gel.

10. Proceed to a French manicure, normal enamelled glossy nails or nail art.

5.4 Shellac Style Nails

5.4.1 What is Shellac?

Shellac is a long-lasting enamel that guarantees a minimum of 15 days gloss.

Shellac nails are highly demanded in beauty salons. As a professional manicurist, it’s very important
to master this technique, know the composition of the products and which clients to recommend
them to.

5.4.2 Advantages of permanent or semi-permanent polish:

It’s easy to apply, like normal enamel.

It’s as hard as a gel.

It gives a brilliant shine.

It dries immediately with a UV lamp which means no waiting - a customer who’s just had a pedicure
can immediately put on shoes.

It hardens the natural nail.

It smoothes the surface.

With the same colour you can create various shades, depending on the number of layers you apply.

5.4.3 Product Composition:

It’s a hybrid formula that combines solvents (which give the same ease of application as normal nail
enamel), monomers (which provide the long lasting properties of gel nails) and polymers (which
allow it to be easily removed).

5.4.4 To which customers should you recommend this service?

To people who want their nails to look more natural and avoid gel nails but like their nails look
smooth; without grooves.

To people who like to wear nail polish but whose lifestyles cause it to damage easily.

To customers who don’t have time for frequent manicures.

To brides who don’t want nail extensions but who want a long lasting French manicure.

Module 5: Gel & Shellac Manicure

5.4.5 What materials do I need?

The basic materials you need to apply Shellac nails are:

1. Cotton pads.

2. Nail polish remover.

3. Pure Acetone.

4. Orange stick or metal cuticle pusher.

5. Fine nail file.

6. Brush.

7. Liquid primer disinfectant.

8. Permanent base product for enamelling.

9. UV or LED lamp.

10. Permanent enamels.

11. Top gel.

12. Cuticle Oil.

Materials required for removal:

1. Cotton balls.

2. Aluminium foil, cut into squares of 15x15 cm.

3. Pure acetone.

4. Padded nail file.

5.5 Steps for applying Shellac

1. Firstly, remove any existing nail polish with cotton pads and remover.

2. With an Orange stick, push back the cuticles and remove them.

3. File the entire surface of the nail with a fine file.

4. With a brush, remove the dust remaining after filing.

5. Apply disinfectant primer all over the nail and allow to dry completely.

6. Apply the base product for permanent enamel on the first hand and allow to dry in a UV or LED
lamp.

7. Apply a coat of the chosen colour and allow to dry.

8. Apply repeat layers until the desired shade is achieved. You can apply up to 5 coats of enamel.

9. Coat each nail with “Top Gel” and allow to dry for 5 minutes under the lamp.

10. If you want to set the colour more you can apply a second layer of “Top Gel".

11. Clean the nails with nail polish remover and cotton.
12. Finally, moisturise the cuticles with special cuticle oil.

Removing Shellac

1. Apply a cotton ball soaked in pure acetone on the nail.

2. Wrap it in foil and leave for 10 minutes.

3. After this time, remove the remaining enamel with a fine file.