Construction through shape

Basic bodice form

1–4 Here, jersey has been pinned to the

Only one side of the stand is used, unless developing asymmetrical
stand through the centre-front line. It
designs, in which case both sides of the mannequin are used.
has been smoothed over the shoulder
and pinned under the armhole. The
1 Prepare a piece of toile fabric 10cm longer than the back length
neck and armhole have then been cut
(nape-to-waist measurement) and wide enough to cover half
away to form a bodice shape.
of the back.
2 Pin the straight grain down the centre back, with about 5cm
above the neckline and 5cm below the waistline.
3 Hold the fabric straight across the width of the back to the armhole
and pin in place at the underarm (make sure the grain of the fabric
is straight).
4 Work from the centre back neck, a little at a time, cutting and
marking the fitting lines of the neck, shoulder and armhole.
5 If using a stretch toile fabric, work outwards from the centre back
to smooth the fullness in the back waist. Mark in the side lines and
waistline. Pin to stand and cut off surplus fabric, leaving about 2cm
for turning. If using calico toile fabric, keep the grain straight, mark
in the side lines and pin to stand. Pin and mark the dart from the
waistline where the fold of fabric appears. Pin and mark waistline
and cut off surplus fabric, leaving about 2cm for turning.
6 For the front, prepare the toile fabric in the same way as for the
back. Pin the straight grain down the centre front, with about 5cm
above the neckline and 5cm below the waistline.
7 Hold the fabric straight across the bust line, pin to hold at the
underarm point, keeping the grain of the fabric straight.
8 Working round the neck and shoulder, pin, mark and cut off excess
fabric, matching to the back shoulder. If using a stretch toile fabric,
work from the centre front outwards to smooth the fullness in the
shoulder and armhole; mark and pin. If using calico toile fabric,
keep the grain straight, mark and pin a dart in the centre of the
shoulder down to the bust point. Smooth out at the armhole,
mark and pin.
9 Adjust and pin under the arm to the back side seam. If using stretch
toile fabric, work from the centre front to smooth out as much
fullness as possible in to the side seam in order to avoid creating a
waist dart; mark and pin side seam and waist line. Cut off surplus
fabric, leaving about 2cm for turning. If using calico toile fabric, pin
under the arm to back side seam, pin and mark dart at waistline,
where the fold of fabric appears. Pin and mark waistline. Cut off
surplus fabric, leaving about 2cm for turning.

Note: the measurements here are in metric. To convert to imperial,

1cm = 2/5in.
Construction through shape