Construction through shape
Basic block with classic set-in sleeve
Draft a standard stretch block from
the measurements on page 121. You
can add more ease in the bust and
armhole depth as required and 5cm
or more to the top arm measurement.
To create a closer fitting, higher
armhole, reduce the armhole depth
by around 2–3cm.The length of the
bodice and sleeve can also be varied.
1 3 8 1
9 for approximately 3cm. You now have half a back
10
4 5
7 less than half the neck size).
Bodice
2 6
3
1
7
6 5
Sleeve
8 9
2
10 4 mirrored from the centre sleeve length line.
1 Simple pattern guide for basic
block with classic set-in sleeve.
Construction through shape
2–3 A simple, basic bodice knit block and
sleeve, which have allowances for
ease. Both include measurements
as well as the calculated stitches
and rows.
4 This illustration of the front neckline
shows stitches and rows using a
tension sample of 3 stitches and
4 rows to 1cm.
Front and back bodice
1 1–2 Nape to waist. Square across from 1 and 2.
2 1–3 One fifth of neck measurement.
3 1–4 Armhole depth plus depth of shoulder slope
(for example, 3cm).
4 4–5 Square across by quarter bust measurement.
5 5–6 Square down to 6, to meet line from 2.
6 4–7 Half of the back width measurement .
7 7–8 Square up from 7 to meet line from 1.
8 8–9 Shoulder slope depth (for example, 3cm).
Join 3 to 9.
9 5–10 Draw curve touching the line from 4,
bodice.
10 Draw in front neckline on top of the drafted back
bodice, from 3 as required (make sure that the
combined front and back neck measurements are not
11 Trace off bodice with front neckline to achieve two
separate pattern pieces: the half front and the half
back bodice.
Set-in sleeve
1 1–2 Sleeve length. Square across from 1 and 2.
2 1–3 Half top arm measurement. Square down
to meet the line from 2.
3 1–5 Draw a line from 1, which is the measurement of
the armhole depth, to touch the line from 3 to 4.
4 5–6 Square across from 5 to 6 on the line from 1 to 2.
5 5–7 One third of length of 5 to 1; use this point to
direct sleeve head curve.
6 5–1 Draw in curve touching the line from 6 for
approximately 3cm, through point 7 to finish at 1.
Make sure that the length of the sleeve head is the
same measurement as the armhole on the bodice
(you may need to adjust the curve in order to get the
correct measurement).
7 2–8 Cuff depth. This can be any measurement you
choose, depending on the design.
Square across (from 8–9) by half the cuff width,
bearing in mind the wrist measurement.
8 9–10 Square down to the line from 2 to 4. Join 9 to 5.
9 This gives you half the sleeve. The other half is
10 Once the bodice and sleeve blocks have ben drafted,
a 1cm seam allowance can be added to all outside
edges. Make a stretch jersey toile to check size and
proportions. At this point, the width of the waist can
be narrowed and fitted along the side seams.