The 

body length is customisable and

there are three different neckline
edging options!

The hemline and cuffs are all crocheted

with alternating rows of back loop half
double crochets and back loop slip
stitches.

C O N ST R U CT I ON
Since we’re using back loop stitches for the ribbing, we’ll start the
body and sleeves with the hem/cuff ribbing. The body panel is
worked entirely in one piece which means a lot less sewing at the end
of the pattern – yay!
 The body length of this cardi is
entirely customisable. The
sample is cropped, but you can
easily crochet a hip length or
knee length cardi by adding
more rows to the main body
panel. We’ll then separate the
body panel into 3 sections – 2
front panels and a back panel
to make openings of the
sleeves to slot into.

These oversized balloon

sleeves are worked from the
cuff up and the best thing
about this sleeve shape you
crochet only 2 rows of
shaping in the entire
pattern! The Doveport
Cardigan is such a simple and
mindless pattern, so it’s perfect for crocheting while watching Netflix.

If you want to minimise seaming even further, you could always work
these sleeves in the round. To crochet balloon sleeves in the round,
slip stitch the last row of the ribbing to the first row. Follow the
sleeve instructions as per normal, but at the end of each round slip
stitch into the first stitch to join and the turn your work.

Once you have the body panel and 2 sleeves, simply fold the front
panels on top of the back panel and sew the shoulder seams
together. Then whip stitch the tops of the sleeves to the armholes.
This nicely-formatted pdf contains 17 pages and photo tutorial. The
pictures are also separated from the written pattern so you can save
on ink! The printable pdf  is a super useful upgrade that makes it
even easier to crochet.

3 NEC K L I N E FI NI SH E S
Can I add neckline ribbing?’ With the Doveport Cardigan, I’ve
provided instructions for 3 different neckline finishes!

1. SLIP STITCH EDGING

– This is great if you want a very clean finish and minimalist look to
your design. It’s also the easiest option of the three and the best for
beginners.

The key to crocheting neat slip stitch is to crochet with even

tension and evenly space out your stitches. If your stitches are too
far apart, your neckline will pucker and if you have too many stitches
your neckline with ruffle and not lay flat.
2. BLO HDC + BLO SL ST
RIBBING  CROCHETED SEPARATELY
– If you like the look of thicker neckline ribbing this is a great option!
Follow the exact ribbing instructions we used for the hem and sleeve
cuffs and alternate between half double crochet and slip stitch rows
until your ribbing measures the same length as the neckline and ship
stitch it into place.

If you’re a beginner crocheter and want ribbing, this is the easiest

and most forgiving option! This is my favourite way of adding
neckline ribbing to my projects 🙂

3 .   B L O HD C + B L O SL
S T   C ROC HE TE D O N T O T HE M A I N
BODY PANEL
(as pictured)
If you really don’t like sewing, this can be a good option if you’re a
more experienced crocheter and comfortable with adjusting gauge.
For this pattern, you can crochet the neckline ribbing directly on the
neckline. However, you need to match your slip stitches with the
height of the ribbing rows – not the rows along the body edge.

A common mistake with crocheting ribbing directly onto a main body

panel is to think that 1 body panel row = 1 ribbing row, however this
is often not the case! All stitches and yarns have a slightly different
gauge.

For the Doveport Cardigan, I found that spacing out 4 ribbing rows

along 3 body HDC rows worked well but you’ll need to experiment
with your specific yarn and tension.

CROCHET RIBBING
SEPARATELY VS.
WORKED IN ONE
PIECE
Many of you have asked me why I
don’t often crochet ribbing
directly onto the main project.
The biggest reason is because of
gauge!

With back loop ribbing, it can be

tricky to match the ribbing gauge with the body stitches or rows. Due
to this, the final result or look of the ribbing can vary widely
depending on your crochet experience.
That’s why I usually recommend crocheting the ribbing separately
and then sewing it on. The result is more consistent over different
crocheting abilities and types of yarn.

The second reason is time! I find the time it takes me to crochet the
ribbing separately and sew it on is quicker than crocheting the
ribbing directly onto the neckline. When you work on an assembled
garment, I find it takes of a lot of time to experiment and adjust your
gauge and tension to make sure your ribbing lays flat.

On top of that, the entire garment can get really heavy and
cumbersome as you work the ribbing and turn your rows. I also
prefer the flat, ‘seamless’ look when whip stitching the neckline
ribbing into place.

YARN
One thing to note, is
that Lion Brand Heartland  is
on the thicker end of a
worsted/aran/medium (4)
yarn. If you’re looking for a
substitute, make sure to pick
a thicker aran yarn so you can
easily match the gauge of the
pattern.

MINI EXPLANATION:
A simple oversized cardigan, perfect for beginner crocheters! Made
with half double crochets and slip stitches, this crochet cardigan is
worked flat – the body in one piece and then the sews are sewn on.

PATTERN NOTES:

*Sample is a size small shown on a 5’3” model with a 32” bust.

*The sizing guide follows size XS(S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).

E.g. “HDC 99(111, 123, 135, 147)(159, 171, 183, 195) means HDC 99
for XS, HDC 111 for Small, HDC 123 for Medium, HDC 135 for Large,
HDC 147 for XL, HDC 159 for 2XL, HDC 171 for 3XL, HDC 183 for 4XL
and HDC 195 for 5XL.” If there is only one number, it applies to all
sizes.

*”HDC 10” means HDC into the next 10 stitches.

*”2HDC” means place 2HDC into the same stitch.

*The turning chain, ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch.

*Total stitches are indicated between < >.

*This pattern uses US crochet terms.

*This crochet cardigan is constructed from 3 pieces – 1 main body

panel and 2 sleeves.

*The body panel and sleeves are crocheted from the bottom up.

*The ribbing is crocheted lengthways and the body and sleeves are
crocheted directly onto the long edge of the ribbing.
*The body is worked entirely in one piece. We’ll start with the
hemline ribbing and then crochet the main body portion. We’ll
separate the body panel into 3 sections, 2x front panels and back
panel with openings for the sleeves.

*The sleeves are crocheted from the cuff ribbing up, sewn together
and onto the body.

*There are 3 neckline finishing options – slip stitch edging, HDC

ribbing crocheted separately and HDC ribbing crocheted directly
onto the neckline.

*To make your sweater shorter/longer, simply remove/add

rows (alteration instructions provided), just keep in mind for every
2cm/0.75” you’ll need an extra approx. 12(12, 14, 16, 18)(18, 20, 20,
22)g.

*All pieces are sewn together with the RS on the inside and the WS
facing outwards.

*The sample cardigan uses Lion Brand Heartland  which is classified

as an Aran/Worsted/Medium (4). It’s on the thicker end of a worsted
yarn, so if you want to substitute this yarn look for a yarn with a
recommended hook size of 6mm (J) / 6.5mm (K).

LEVEL: Beginner+

M A T ER I A L S
Yarn – LionBrand Heartland  – Aran/Worsted/Medium(4),
230m/142g, 251yds/5oz., 100% Acrylic, Petrified Forest
approx. 415(485, 545, 595, 670)(735, 805, 885, 955)g
6.5mm (US K) Crochet Hook

Darning Needle

Embroidery Scissors

1 x Stitch marker/Safety pin

STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS

Ch = Chain

Sl st = Slip Stitch

HDC = Half Double Crochet

BLO = Back Loop

St(s) = Stitch(es)

Rep = Repeat

RS = Right Side

WS = Wrong Side

MEASUREMENTS
Measurements cm:

To fit Bust: 71(81, 91, 101, 112)(122, 132, 142, 152)

Back Width: 44(49, 54, 59, 64)(69, 74, 79, 84)
Body Length: 37(39, 41, 43, 45)(47, 49, 51, 53)
Armhole: 17(18, 19, 20, 21)(23, 24, 25, 26)
Sleeve Length: 37(39, 39, 39, 41)(41, 41, 43, 43)

Measurements inches:

To fit Bust: 28(32, 36, 40, 44)(48, 52, 56, 60)

Back Width: 17.5(19.5, 21.5, 23.5, 25.5)(27.5, 29, 31, 33)
Body Length: 14.5(15.5, 16, 17, 18)(18.5, 19, 20, 21)
Armhole: 6.5(7, 7.5, 8, 8.5)(9, 9.5, 10, 10.5)
Sleeve length: 14.5(15.5, 15.5, 15.5, 16)(16, 16, 17, 17)

GAUGE: 10cm/4” square = 12 stitches wide x 10 rows tall in half

double crochet

DOVEPORT CARDIGAN CROCHET

PATTERN

BODY HEMLINE RIBBING

*The ribbing runs the of 2x front panels + back panel.

FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 9.

ROW 1 (RS): HDC into 2 nd ch from the hook, HDC across, turn.
<8>

ROW 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st 7, sl st in last st, turn.

<8>
ROW 3: Ch 1, BLO HDC 7, HDC in last st, turn.
<8>
*Make sure the ch is loose and tall enough to match the height of the
BLO HDCs.

Repeat ROWS 2 – 3 until ROW 99(111, 123, 135, 147)

(159, 171, 183, 195).
<8>

Do not fasten off! We will now work along the long edge of the
ribbing.

MAIN BODY PANEL

ROW 1 (RS): Ch 1, HDC in each row until end, turn.

<99(111, 123, 135, 147)(159, 171, 183, 195)>
*You should have 1 HDC in each sl st and HDC row.
ROW 2: Ch 1, HDC across, turn.
<99(111, 123, 135, 147)(159, 171, 183, 195)>

Repeat ROW 2 until ROW 14(14, 16, 16, 18)(18, 18, 20, 20).

*You can add/remove rows to make your cardigan longer/shorter.
Keep in mind that the front + back panel shaping adds approx. 18(20,
20, 22, 24)(24, 26, 26, 28)cm / 7(8, 8, 8.5, 9.5)(9.5, 10, 10, 11)“ to the
current length of your cardigan.

Do not fasten off! We will now crochet the FIRST FRONT PANEL.

FIRST FRONT PANEL

ROW 1: Ch 1, HDC 22(25, 28, 31, 34)(37, 40, 43, 46), skip 1 st, place
stitch marker in next st, turn.
<22(25, 28, 31, 34)(37, 40, 43, 46)>
ROW 2: Ch 1 HDC across, turn.
<22(25, 28, 31, 34)(37, 40, 43, 46)>

Repeat ROW 2 until ROW 18(20, 20, 22, 22)(24, 26, 26, 28).

<Total rows: 32(34, 36, 38, 40)(42, 44, 46, 48)>

Fasten off.

BACK PANEL

With the RS facing you, insert crochet hook in st with a stitch marker.
Secure your yarn and pull up a loop.
ROW 1: Ch 1, HDC 53(59, 65, 71, 77)(83, 89, 95, 101), skip 1 st, place
stitch marker in next st, turn.
<53(59, 65, 71, 77)(83, 89, 95, 101)>

ROW 2: Ch 1, HDC across, turn.

<53(59, 65, 71, 77)(83, 89, 95, 101)>

Repeat ROW 2 until ROW 18(20, 20, 22, 22)(24, 26, 26, 28).

<Total rows: 32(34, 36, 38, 40)(42, 44, 46, 48)>

Fasten off.

SECOND FRONT PANEL

With the RS facing you, insert crochet hook in st with a stitch marker.
Secure your yarn and pull up a loop.

ROW 1: Ch 1, HDC across, turn.

<22(25, 28, 31, 34)(37, 40, 43, 46)>

Repeat ROW 1 until ROW 18(20, 20, 22, 22)(24, 26, 26, 28).

<Total rows: 32(34, 36, 38, 40)(42, 44, 46, 48)>
Fasten off.

SLEEVE RIBBING

FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 9.

ROW 1 (RS): HDC into 2 nd ch from the hook, HDC across, turn.
<8>

ROW 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st 7, sl st in last st, turn.

<8>

ROW 3: Ch 1, BLO HDC 7, HDC in last st, turn.

<8>

Repeat ROWS 2 – 3 until ROW 21(23, 25, 25, 27)(29, 31, 31, 33).

<8>

Do not fasten off! We will now work along the long edge of the
ribbing.
SLEEVES

(make 2)

ROW 1 (RS): Ch 1, HDC in 1 st row, HDC in sl st row, *2HDC in HDC

row, HDC in sl st row; rep from * until last row, HDC in last row, turn.
<30(33, 36, 36, 39)(42, 45, 45, 48)>

Sizes XS(S, M, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 5XL) only:

ROW 2: Ch 1, *2HDC, HDC 2; rep from * until end, turn.

<40(44, 48, 52)(56, 60, 64)>

Sizes (L, 4XL) only:

ROW 2: Ch 1, 2HDC 3, *2HDC, HDC 2; rep from * until end, turn.
<(50, 62)>

ALL SIZES:

ROW 3: Ch 1, HDC across, turn.

<40(44, 48, 50, 52)(56, 60, 62, 64)>

Repeat ROW 3 until sleeve measures 37(39, 39, 39, 41)(41, 41, 43,
43)cm/ 14.5(15.5, 15.5, 15.5, 16)(16, 16, 17, 17) “ approx. ROW
32(34, 34, 34, 36)(36, 36, 38, 38).
*You can add/remove rows to make your sleeve longer/shorter.
Fasten off.

Fold sleeve in half lengthways and whip stitch the long edge of the
sleeve together.

ASSEMBLY

Fold the front panels on top of the back panel. Whip stitch the
shoulder seams together.
Whip stitch top of sleeves to armholes.

With the Doveport Cardigan, you can finish the neckline with a

simple edging OR crochet matching neckline ribbing
separately OR directly onto the neckline.

NECKLINE EDGING

(beginner friendly)

With the RS facing you, insert your hook into the corner of the front
panel. Secure your yarn and pull up a loop.

ROW 1: Ch 1, sl st evenly along the edge of the neckline.

*The exact number of stitches doesn’t matter, rather focus on spacing
out your stitches evenly. If your neckline is ruffling you have too many
stitches and if your neckline is puckering you have too few stitches.

Fasten off.

NECKLINE RIBBING - CROCHETED SEPARATELY

(beginner friendly)

FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 9.

ROW 1 (RS): HDC into 2 nd ch from the hook, HDC across,

turn.                                      
<8>

ROW 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st 7, sl st in last st,

turn.                                                           
<8>
ROW 3: Ch 1, BLO HDC 7, HDC in last st,
turn.                                                          
<8>

Repeat ROWS 2 – 3 until the ribbing measures the length of the

entire neckline.

Fasten off.

Pin ribbing along neckline and whip stitch ribbing to neckline.

NECKLINE RIBBING - CROCHETED ONTO

NECKLINE

With the RS facing you, insert your hook into the corner of the front
panel. Secure your yarn and pull up a loop.

FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 9.
ROW 1: HDC in 2nd ch from the hook, HDC 7, sl st into next 2 sts on
neckline edge, turn.
<8>
ROW 2: Skip first 2 sl sts, BLO sl st 7, sl st in last st, turn.
<8>

ROW 2: Ch 1, BLO HDC 8, sl st into next 2 sts on neckline edge, turn,
<8>
Repeat ROWS 2 – 3 until you make your way around to the opposite
corner of the second front panel. End on a repeat of ROW 3 and
place 1 sl st in the corner. Fasten off.

*When crocheting directly onto the raw edge of the HDC rows, space
your slip stitches out evenly. If your slip stitches are too close
together, the neckline will ruffle and if they are too far apart the
ribbing will pucker and pull on the neckline.

*For even slip stitch spacing, I found that lining up the first slip stitch
at the same height as the BLO HDCs works best and then placing the
2nd slip stitch slightly above it.
*In general, I found that I spaced out 4 ribbing rows for every 3 HDC
body panel rows (instead of 1 slip stitch in each HDC row) the ribbing
laid flat. But experiment with your specific yarn choice and crochet
tension to find the best spacing.

FINISHING

Weave in all of your ends. Steam block to measurements.

Voilà! You’ve finished your Doveport Cardigan.