The Alchemy Cardigan

The Alchemy Cardigan

Whether you’re new to garment crocheting or an old pro, the Alchemy Cardigan will
transform what you think is possible with a hook, some yarn and your own two
hands. This lightweight sweater is perfect to toss on for some summer stargazing or
layer with a long-sleeve shirt in the colder months.
The Alchemy Cardigan - p 1

© Make & Do Crew

Supplies:
This pattern contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
• A: Lion Brand Vanna’s Style (Weight: 3/light - 254 yds, 3.5 oz)
- Ecru (#867-098) – 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11) skeins [(approx. 570 (640, 710, 790, 900, 975,
1060) g)]
• Tapestry needle 
• Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Stitch markers or safety pins
• (2) ¾” or 1” buttons
• Sewing needle and thread to match buttons

Sizes:
Fits Bust:
S 32”-34”
M 36”-38”
L 40”-42”
XL 44”-46”
2X 48”-50”
3X 52”-54”
4X 56”-58”
See schematic at end of pattern for additional measurements.

Sample pictured is a size M on a 5’9” model with a 36” bust.
Gauge: Please check your gauge and adjust

Main Pattern: your hook size accordingly! This is
14 sts = 4” critical to making a sweater that meets
7.5 rows = 4” the sizing listed in the pattern.

Sleeves as worked in hdc mesh:
19 sts = 4”
10 rows = 4”
Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):

bpdc - back post double crochet
ch – chain
ch-1 sp - space created by one chain stitch

© Make & Do Crew

dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet two together
fdc - foundation double crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet
PM – place marker
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sc - single crochet
sp – space
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch – turning chain
WS – wrong side

Original Pattern + Tutorial:
Find all the video tutorials and additional photos at:
https://makeanddocrew.com/alchemy-cardigan-crochet-along-part-1/

Want some company while you crochet?
Get support (and camaraderie!) in the Make & Do Crochet Crew Facebook Group.
Search “Make and Do Crochet Crew” on Facebook.com.

Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell
with this pattern. In exchange, please link back to https://makeanddocrew.com
/alchemy-cardigan-crochet-along-part-1/. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales
photos.

Overall Pattern Notes:
● Ch 3 at beginning of a row always counts as a dc.
PART 1: CARDIGAN BACK

Notes:
● Sweater back is worked vertically from one underarm side to the other. (See
photo C.)
● Replace Foundation Row and Row 1 with one single row of foundation double
crochet if desired. Work 64 (66, 66, 68, 68, 70, 70) total fdc in this case.
Make 1.

© Make & Do Crew

First Underarm Indent:

Foundation Row: Ch 66 (68, 68, 70, 70, 72, 72).

Row 1 (RS): Sk 3 ch (counts as 1 dc), dc in each ch to end; turn. (64 (66, 66, 68, 68, 70,
70) dc))

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *sk next dc, dc in next dc, working behind last dc made,
dc in last skipped dc (X made); rep from * until tch remains; dc in third ch of tch; turn
(31 (32, 32, 33, 33, 34, 34) Xs)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to end of row; turn. (64 (66, 66, 68, 68, 70,
70)

dc in last skipped dc (X made); rep from * until tch remains; dc in third ch of tch; at
end of row: ch 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40); turn. (31 (32, 32, 33, 33, 34, 34) Xs + 28 (30, 32,
34, 36, 38, 40) ch)
Shoulder Increasing:

Row 1 (RS): Sk 3 ch, dc in each dc and ch to end of row; turn. (90 (94, 96, 100, 102, 106,
108) dc)

(44 (46, 47, 49, 50, 52, 53) Xs)

Row 3 (RS inc): Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc, dc in each dc to end of row; turn. (92 (96, 98, 102,
104, 108, 110) dc)

Rows 4-5 (7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17): Continuing in established pattern, rep a RS inc Row
every RS row, 1 (2, 1, 0, 1, 0, 1) time(s), then rep a RS inc Row every other RS row, 0 (0, 1,
2, 2, 3, 3) time(s). At the end of increasing, there are 94 (100, 102, 106, 110, 114, 118) total
dc.
**UPDATED TO ADD: Some people have had questions about these rows, so I've
written the row-by-row shoulder increase in layman's terms for each size below. I

© Make & Do Crew

hope you find it helpful. These rows are NOT in addition to Rows 4-5 (7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17)
above, this is just another way of explaining the pattern-speak of what’s written
above. Only work the shoulder increase section once. Reference Chart E at end of
pattern for the same information in visual form.

Small:
Row 4: X row
Row 5: d
c inc row
Move on to mid-back.

Medium:
Row 4: X row
Row 5: dc inc row
Row 6: X row
Row 7: d
c inc row

Large:
Row 4: X row
Row 5: dc inc row
Row 6: X row
Row 7: dc non inc row
Row 8: X
row
Row 9: dc inc row

XL:
Row 4: X row
Row 5: dc row
Row 6: X row
Row 7: dc inc row
Row 8: X row
Row 9: dc row
Row 10: X row
Row 11: dc inc row


© Make & Do Crew

2X:
Row 4: X row
Row 5: dc inc row
Row 6: X row
Row 8: X row
Row 9: dc inc row
Row 10: X row
Row 12: X row
Row 13: dc inc row

3X:
Row 4: X row
Row 6: X row
Row 7: dc inc row
Row 8: X row
Row 10: X row
Row 11: dc inc row
Row 12: X row
Row 14: X
row
Row 15: dc inc row

4X:
Row 4: X row
Row 5: dc inc row
Row 6: X row
Row 8: X row
Row 9: dc inc row
Row 10: X row

© Make & Do Crew

Row 12: X row
Row 13: dc inc row
Row 14: X row
Row 15: dc non inc
Row 16: X row
Row 17: dc inc row
Mid Back:
(46 (49, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58) Xs)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc and ch to end of row; turn. (94 (100, 102,
106, 110, 114, 118) dc)

Rep Rows 1 and 2 (9 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10)) more times each.

Work one additional rep of Row 1.
Shoulder Decreasing:
Row 1 (RS dec): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc2tog twice over next 4 dc, dc in each dc and ch to
end of row; turn. (92 (98, 100, 104, 108, 112, 116) dc)

dc in last skipped dc (X made); from from * until tch remains; dc in third ch of tch;
turn (45 (48, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57) Xs)

Rows 3 (5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15): Continuing in established pattern, rep a RS dec Row every
other RS row, 0 (0, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3) time(s), then rep a RS dec Row every RS row, 1 (2, 1, 0, 1,
0, 1) time(s). At the end of Row 3 (5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17), there are 90 (94, 96, 100, 102, 106,
108) dc.

TIP: Reference Chart F at end of pattern for frequency of decrease rows in visual
form.
Second Underarm Indent

Counting from bottom edge of sweater, place marker in 64th (66th, 66th, 68th, 68th,
70th, 70th) st.

© Make & Do Crew

dc in last skipped dc (X made); from from * until marked st remains, dc in marked st;
turn (31 (32, 32, 33, 33, 34, 34) Xs)

70) dc)

Row 3 (WS): Rep Row 1.

Row 4 (RS): Rep Row 2.

Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail for seaming.

PART 2: CARDIGAN FRONTS

Notes:
● Sweater fronts worked vertically from one underarm side to where cardigan
opens in the front. (See photo G.)
● Because there’s a definite RS and WS of fabric, we’ll be working two reflecting

pieces for the front. These will mimic the exact shape of the right and left
sides of the sweater back.
● Pocket slit is optional. Continue working regular double crochet Xs to

eliminate pockets.
● Replace Foundation Row and Row 1 with one single row of foundation double
crochet if desired. Work 64 (66, 66, 68, 68, 70, 70) total fdc in this case.
Right Front:
Make 1.
Underarm Indent:



© Make & Do Crew

70) dc)

dc in last skipped dc (X made); rep from * until tch remains; dc in third ch of tch; turn.
(31 (32, 32, 33, 33, 34, 34) Xs)

70) dc)

dc in last skipped dc (X made); rep from * until tch remains; dc in third ch of tch; turn.
(31 (32, 32, 33, 33, 34, 34) Xs)

Do not fasten off.

Attach a second ball of yarn in tch at beginning of Row 4.

With new ball of yarn, ch 27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39). Fasten off new ball and pull yarn
through last ch to create 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) total workable chs. ((31 (32, 32, 33, 33,
34, 34) Xs and 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38) ch)

Continue Row 1 of next section with original ball of yarn.
Shoulder Increasing
Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc and ch to end of row; turn.

(90 (94, 96, 100, 102, 106, 108) dc)

TIP: Count your stitches to ensure there are the correct number of double crochets
after adding the new chain.

Row 2 (WS pocket slit): Ch 3, sk first dc, *sk next dc, dc in next dc, working behind
last dc made, dc in last skipped dc ( X made)**; rep rep from * 25 (26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31)
more times (26 (27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32) Xs total made); ch 18, sk 19 sts, dc in next (20th)
st, working behind last dc made, dc in last skipped (19th) dc ( X made); rep rep from *
to ** until tch remains; dc in third ch of tch; turn. (9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12) Xs below pocket
slit)

© Make & Do Crew

Row 3 (RS inc): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc and ch until 2 dc remain, 2 dc in each
of last 2 dc; turn. (92 (96, 98, 102, 104, 108, 110) dc)

2, 2, 3, 3) time(s). At the end of increasing there are 94 (100, 102, 106, 110, 114, 118) dc.

TIP: To see row-by-row instructions in layman’s terms for the increase rows above
(Rows 4-5 (7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17), reference the Back section of the pattern. While the
increase for the Right Front is worked at the end of the dc row instead of the
beginning, the actual frequency of dc increase rows and X rows does not differ from
the Back. Reference Chart E at end of pattern for the same information in visual
form.
Center Front:
Rows 1, 3, 5 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *sk next dc, dc in next dc, working behind last dc
made, dc in last skipped dc (X made); rep from * until tch remains; dc in third ch of
tch; turn. (46 (49, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58) Xs)

Rows 2, 4, 6, (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc and ch to end of row; turn. (94 (100,
102, 106, 110, 114, 118)100 dc)

Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT:
Notes:
● Left front is worked identically to the first portion of the Back section. Review
the Back section video tutorial for extra help (Part 1).
Make 1.
Underarm Indent:



© Make & Do Crew

70) dc)

(31 (32, 32, 33, 33, 34, 34) Xs)

70) dc)

dc in last skipped dc (X made); rep from * until tch remains; dc in third ch of tch; at
end of row: ch 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40); turn. (31 (32, 32, 33, 33, 34, 34) Xs + 28 (30, 32,
34, 36, 38, 40) ch)
Shoulder Increasing:
Row 1 (RS): S
k 3 ch (counts as 1 dc), dc in each dc and ch to end of row; turn. (90 (94,
96, 100, 102, 106, 108) dc)

TIP: Count your stitches to ensure there are the correct number of double crochets
after adding the new chain.

Row 2 (WS pocket slit): Ch 3, sk first dc, *sk next dc, dc in next dc, working behind
last dc made, dc in last skipped dc ( X made)**; rep from * 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11) more
times (9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12) Xs total made); ch 18, sk 19 sts, dc in next ( 20th) st, working
behind last dc made, dc in last skipped (19th) dc (X made); rep rep from * to ** until
tch remains; dc in third ch of tch; turn. (26 (27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32) Xs above pocket slit)

Row 3 (RS inc): Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc, dc in each dc and ch to end of row; turn. (92 (96,
98, 102, 104, 108, 110) dc)

2, 2, 3, 3) time(s). At the end of increasing there are 94 (100, 102, 106, 110, 114, 118) dc.

TIP: To see row-by-row instructions in layman’s terms for the increase rows above
(Rows 4-5 (7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17), reference the Back section of the pattern or chart E.


© Make & Do Crew

Center Front:
Rows 1, 3, 5 (WS): C
h 3, sk first dc, *sk next dc, dc in next dc, working behind last dc
made, dc in last skipped dc (X made); rep from * until tch remains; dc in third ch of
tch; turn. (46 (49, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58) Xs)

Rows 2, 4, 6 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc and ch to end of row; turn. (94 (100,
102, 106, 110, 114, 118) dc)

Fasten off.

PART 3: SLEEVES
Notes:
● Cuff is worked first sideways in same stitch pattern as main sweater. Sleeve is
then worked into cuff in rows of half double crochet mesh
● See completed sleeve in photo H.
● As written, WS of sleeve cuff will appear on outside of finished sweater, similar

to any rolled sleeve. This is intentional. This also means that if you choose to
eliminate elbow cuff strap, RS of cuff will appear on outside of sleeve. If you’d
like the sleeve cuff to have RS showing when rolled up, you may simply sew it
to the sweater this way (but work the entire sleeve as written below.)
Make 2.
Cuff:

Foundation Row: Ch 36 (all sizes).

Row 1 (RS): Sk 3 ch (counts as 1 dc), dc in each ch to end; turn. (34 dc)

(16 Xs)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to end of row; turn. (34 dc)

© Make & Do Crew

Rep Rows 2 and 3 (8 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10)) more times each.

Work one additional rep of Row 2. Do not fasten off.

TIP: It’s worth making a new gauge swatch using the hdc mesh pattern below and
checking it against the sleeve gauge listed at the top of the pattern to ensure your
sleeves fit within the other pieces of your sweater. Ch any even number of ch to
make a gauge swatch.
Sleeve:
Rotate cuff 90 degrees so that Row 1 below can be worked into raw side edge where
yarn is attached. WS of cuff should be facing for Row 1. Row 1 may take some
adjusting to get the stitches evenly spaced, but it will be worth it when your sleeve
looks awesome! See stitch chart at end of pattern for visual explanation.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), work 48 (52, 52, 52, 56, 56, 56) hdc evenly across;
turn. (49 (53, 53, 53, 57, 57, 57) hdc)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 hdc and 1 ch), sk 2 hdc, hdc in next hdc, *ch 1, sk 1 hdc,
hdc in next hdc; rep from * across, ending with last hdc in tch; turn. (24 (26, 26, 26, 28,
28, 28) ch-1 sps)

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 hdc and 1 ch), sk hdc and ch, hdc in next hdc, *ch 1, hdc
in next hdc; rep from * across, ending with last hdc in tch; turn. (24 (26, 26, 26, 28, 28,
28) ch-1 sps)

Row 4 (inc): Ch 3, hdc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, hdc in next hdc, * ch 1, sk next ch, hdc in
next hdc; rep from * across until tch sp remains, [ch 1, hdc in last tch sp] twice; turn.
(26 (28, 28, 28, 30, 30, 30) ch-1 sps)

Rows 5-19: Rep inc Row 4 every 3 (3, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1) row(s), 1 (5, 3, 1, 1, 3, 7) more time(s), then
rep inc Row every 4 (0, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2) rows, 3 (0, 3, 7, 7, 6, 4) times, for a total of 5 (6, 7, 9, 9,
10, 12) inc rows, including Row 4. After the last inc row, there are 34 (38, 40, 44, 46, 48,
52) ch-1 sps.


© Make & Do Crew

TIP: In layman’s terms, this means you will work Rows 5-19 as follows. (This is not in
addition to what’s written above, but rather an alternative explanation that isn’t in
pattern-speak.) See chart I for the same line-by-line information in chart form.

Small:
Rows 5-6: NON inc row
Row 7: inc row
Row 11: inc row
Row 15: inc row
Row 19: inc row
See Rows 20-30 below.

Medium:
Row 7: i nc row
Row 10: inc row
Row 13: inc row
Row 16: inc row
Rows 17-18: N
ON inc row
Row 19: inc row

Large:
Rows 5: NON inc row
Row 6: inc row
Row 7: NON inc row
Rows 8: inc row
Row 9: NON inc row
Row 10: inc row
Row 13: inc row

© Make & Do Crew

Row 16: inc row
Row 19: inc row

1X:
Row 5: inc row
Row 6: NON inc row
Row 7: inc row
Rows 8: NON inc row
Row 9: inc row
Row 10: NON inc row
Rows 11: i nc row
Row 12: NON inc row
Row 13: inc row
Row 14: NON inc row
Row 15: inc row
Row 16: NON inc row
Row 17: inc row
Row 18: NON inc row
Row 19: inc row

2X:
Row 5: inc row
Row 6: NON inc row
Row 7: inc row
Rows 8: N
ON inc row
Row 9: inc row
Row 10: NON inc row
Rows 11: inc row
Row 12: NON inc row
Row 13: inc row
Row 14: NON inc row
Row 15: inc row
Row 16: NON inc row

© Make & Do Crew

Row 17: i nc row
Row 18: NON inc row
Row 19: inc row

3X:
Rows 5 - 7: i nc row
Rows 8: NON inc row
Row 9: inc row
Row 10: NON inc row
Rows 11: inc row
Row 12: NON inc row
Row 13: inc row
Row 14: NON inc row
Row 15: inc row
Row 16: NON inc row
Row 17: inc row
Row 18: NON inc row
Row 19: inc row

4X:
Rows 5 - 11: inc row
Row 12: NON inc row
Rows 13: inc row
Row 14: N
ON inc row
Row 15: inc row
Row 16: NON inc row
Row 17: i nc row
Row 18: NON inc row
Row 19: inc row

All sizes: Work the following rows:

Rows 20-30: Rep Row 3.


© Make & Do Crew

Fasten off.
PART 4: ASSEMBLY
Seaming Shoulders:

With WS facing out, pin shoulder seams taking care to line up each vertical row on
the front and back pieces. Use a tapestry needle to seam from outside shoulder
toward neck on each side. See Part 4 video tutorial or photo I for more details on
suggested seaming technique.

Setting in Sleeves:

With WS facing out on both sweater and sleeve (check cuff to determine WS), pin
sleeve into shoulder inset.

TIP - As mentioned in Sleeve section: WS of sleeve cuff will appear on outside of
finished sweater, similar to any rolled-up sleeve. This also means that if you choose
to eliminate elbow cuff strap, RS of cuff will appear on outside of sleeve. This is
intentional. If instead, you’d like the "pretty" RS of the cuff to appear on the outside
of the rolled sleeve, you may simply sew opposite of the instructions above. This
means you’ll pin it now with RS facing out.

Use a tapestry needle to join using same stitch technique as previous seam. Repeat
on second sleeve.
Seaming Sleeves:

With WS still facing out, fold and pin each sleeve taking care to line up each row of
hdc. Starting at wrist and working toward shoulder, use a tapestry needle to join
using same stitch technique as previous seam. Repeat on second sleeve. (See photos
I and J.)
Seaming Sides:

With WS still facing out, pin fronts to back at the sides. Use a tapestry needle to join
using same stitch technique as previous seam. Repeat on second side.


© Make & Do Crew

Admire:

Pause. Run to the nearest mirror and admire all your hard work that’s starting to
take shape!

FINISHING TOUCHES
Notes:
● Ch 3 counts as dc throughout.

Seaming Sides:

Turn sweater so RS is facing out. Attach yarn in bottom front corner of left side of
sweater. (Lefties: Attach yarn in bottom front corner of right side of sweater.) Ribbing
is worked along bottom edge of sweater from one front corner to the opposite front
corner.
Row 1 should begin with RS of sweater facing.

Row 1 (RS): C
h 3, 2 dc in vertical row, *2 dc in each vertical row; working 1 extra dc in
each side seam rep from * until 1 vertical row remains at opposite front corner, 3 dc in
last vertical row; turn. (Total number of bottom dc sts, including ch 3, should be an
even number.)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from
* to end of row, 1 fpdc around ch 3; turn.

Row 3 (RS): R
ep Row 2, do not turn.

Do not fasten off. Move on to collar ribbing.
Collar Ribbing:

With yarn still attached from bottom ribbing, Row 1 of collar ribbing is worked again
with RS of sweater facing out. Ribbing is crocheted up front edge of sweater, around
back of neck and down opposite front edge.


© Make & Do Crew

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in first vertical row of bottom ribbing, 2 dc in each of next 2
vertical rows of bottom ribbing; dc in each dc along sweater front, 2 dc in each
vertical row along back of neck, dc in each dc along sweater front, 2 dc in each of
next 3 vertical rows of bottom ribbing; turn. (Total number of bottom dc sts,
including ch 3, should be an even number.)

* to end of row, 1 fpdc around ch 3; turn.

Row 3 (RS): R
ep Row 2.

Fasten off.
Cuff Strap:
Notes:
● Strap is intended to be worked quite tightly. Either continue with same size
hook and hold tension a bit tighter or size down one hook size.
● As written, strap is not intended to be functional and includes no button hole.

Foundation Row: Ch 6.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and each ch to end; turn. (5)

Rows 2-50: Ch 1, sc in each sc to end; turn.

Strap should measure approximately 11”. Remove or add rows if necessary.

Attaching Cuff Strap + Button:
With RS of sweater facing out, fold sleeve cuff in half. Lining up strap with shoulder
seam, pin strap around cuff. (Strap is reversible so choose whichever side you like.)

Use a sewing needle and thread that matches button to sew button to cuff strap,
working through sleeve and both ends of strap.


© Make & Do Crew

Pocket Ribbing:
Pocket ribbing is worked just like bottom and collar ribbing, except that it is
crocheted separately and attached after. Skip this step if you eliminated pocket slits
in sweater fronts.
Make 2.
Row 1 (RS): S
k 3 dc, dc in each ch to end; turn. (30)
* to end of row, 1 frdc around ch 3; turn.
Fasten off leaving a 20” tail.

Attaching Pocket Ribbing:

With Row 3 of pocket ribbing facing toward back of sweater, pin ribbing as pictured
in photos K and L. Take care to ensure ribbing is centered over pocket slit.

Using a tapestry needle and ribbing tail, whipstitch ribbing to sweater.

Pocket Backing:

When tying slip knot to begin ch, leave a 24” tail to sew pocket on later.

Make 2.


Row 1 (RS): Sk 3 dc, dc in each ch to end; turn. (27)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch-1 sp), sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, * ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc
in next dc; rep from * to end of row. (13 ch-1 sps)


© Make & Do Crew

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc and ch-1 sp to end of row; turn.

Rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 (WS): Rep Row 2.

Rows 5, 7, 9, 11 (RS): Rep Row 3.
Small:
Fasten off after Row 12.

Medium-4X:

Row 14 (WS): Rep Row 2.

Fasten off.

Attaching Pocket Backing:

With RS of pocket backing facing WS of sweater front, pin backing as pictured in
photo M. Take care to align rows of ch-1 sps in backing with rows of Xs in cardigan
front.

Using tapestry needle and tail from pocket backing, whip stitch around all four sides
of backing.

Repeat with second pocket backing on opposite cardigan front.

Hallelujah!
Weave in all remaining ends, you crochet rockstar, you.


© Make & Do Crew


© Make & Do Crew


© Make & Do Crew

Photo A - cardigan back

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Photo B - cardigan back

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Photo C - overview of cardigan


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Photo D - how to increase and decrease for shoulder

Chart E - frequency of shoulder increase rows for Back and Front pieces

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Chart F - frequency of shoulder decrease rows for Back piece


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Photo G - finished cardigan fronts


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Photo H - finished sleeve

Chart I - frequency of sleeve increases after first increase in Row 4


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Photo I - how to seam sleeves (as well as other seams). See Part 4 video tutorial for
additional help.

Photo J - how to seam upper portion of sleeve


© Make & Do Crew

Photo K - pocket ribbing detail: bottom aligned with X row and centered over pocket
opening.

Photo L - pocket ribbing detail inside pocket

© Make & Do Crew

Photo M - how to position pocket backing: ch1sp “window” rows aligned with X rows.

I love to see your finished projects! Use #MakeAndDoCrew and tag me I nstagram
(@MakeAndDoCrew) to show off your stitches and have a chance to be featured.


© Make & Do Crew

Additional FREE crochet patterns by Make & Do Crew: 
1. The Dwell Sweater - free easy crochet sweater pattern + video tutorial
2. The Habitat Cardigan - free crochet sweater made from a simple rectangle + video
tutorial
3. The Revival Scarf - free squishy triangle scarf pattern + video tutorial
4. Cabin Boots - free crochet pattern + video tutorial using flip flops

Jess Coppom is the maker and doer behind the blog M akeAndDoCrew.com- -a creative oasis of free
crochet patterns for modern homes and families. Inspiring photography and straightforward video
tutorials lead readers step-by-step through the process of making something they can be proud
of. Jess lives in Colorado with her three young kiddos who love to unravel yarn and her patient
husband who doesn’t mind living in an ever-growing yarn web.

© Make & Do Crew

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Available Formats

The Alchemy Cardigan - p 1

• ​Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook​ or size needed to obtain gauge

• Stitch markers or safety pins

• Sewing needle and thread to match buttons

See schematic at end of pattern for additional measurements.

Gauge: Please check your gauge and adjust

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):

The Alchemy Cardigan - p 2

● Ch 3 at beginning of a row always counts as a dc.

PART 1: CARDIGAN BACK

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First Underarm Indent:

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Second Underarm Indent

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PART 2: CARDIGAN FRONTS

● Because there’s a definite RS and WS of fabric, we’ll be working two reflecting

● Pocket slit is optional. Continue working regular double crochet Xs to

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Row 1 (RS):​ Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc and ch to end of row; turn.

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● See completed sleeve in photo H.

● As written, WS of sleeve cuff will appear on outside of finished sweater, similar

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● As written, strap is not intended to be functional and includes no button hole.

Attaching Cuff Strap + Button:

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Foundation Row:​ Ch 32.

Row 3 (RS):​ Rep Row 2.

Fasten off leaving a 20” tail.

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The Alchemy Cardigan - p 32

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Additional FREE crochet patterns by Make & Do Crew:

The Alchemy Cardigan - p 34

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• Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc and ch to end of row; turn.

Foundation Row: Ch 32.

Row 3 (RS): Rep Row 2.

Additional FREE crochet patterns by Make & Do Crew: 