CHAPTER-1

1.1 INTRODUCTION
Bangladesh is one of the leading readymade garments exporters of the world. Every year
Bangladesh exports more than one third of the total garments requirement of the RMG market of
the world. Bangladesh is one of the leading exporters of ready-made garments in the world and
earning nearly 76% of its foreign currency through exporting ... country while more than 60% of
the export oriented woven fabric is imported resulting in ...That is why the study of garments
technology does deserve well practical practice. So our university provides 02 months industrial
training in a RMG factory. As a student of textile technology we have completed this industrial
training in Adila Apparels From garments making to decorating garments with embroidery Adila
Apparels is a truly Exclusive fashion house that deals with lots of stuff like fabric quality,
garments quality. The Garments Division has the capability to offer a complete product range for
the 100% export to Japan & Germany market. The vision of the Garment Division is to become
the preferred partner for sourcing high quality value added garments from Bangladesh. With an
urge to developing local human resource, the Garments Division has the potential to make an
important contribution to the nation’s growing RMG export sector to make it more competitive.

Adila Apparels

1
CHAPTER-2
2.1 FACTORY PROFILE
Chairman : Mujibur Rahman

Date of Formation :

Nature of Business : Garments Manufacturing & Exporting

Office Address : Sodarghat Bangla Bazar, Chittagong.

Web : http://www.adilabd.com

Factory Address : 116, Strand Road, Sodarghat, Bangla Bazar, Chittagong.

Annual Turnover :
Export Turnover : $ million approximately.

Exporting Countries : USA, EU, Japan, Germany, Etc.

Major Customers : W-Fashion, Indeed, At/Tring, Etc.

Production Capacity : Garments: 6,000pcs/day

No of Lines :8
No. of Basic machines : 288

No. of Manpower : 680

Type of products : Sweater, Men Dress and Casual Pant, Ladies and Men Tops, Twill Long

Pants, Girls Shorts Etc.

Special Features : Standby self Power Generation, Fabric Inspection, Computerized

Marking
And Pattern Designing System.
Sister Companies :
Fax Number : +880-31-2581259

2
2.2 LOCATION OF THE PROJECT

Bangla Bazar

Adila
Apparels Ltd.

Rashid
Dhaka Trunk Road Barik Building
Building circle

Agrabad

Figure: Google image for the location of the Adila Apparels Ltd.

2.3 Production Organ gram

3
 DED

Seniour Seniour
pm pm

APM APM

Quality

In charge

Supervisor

Operator

Helper

4
CHAPTER-3
THE RAW MATERIALS

3.1: KNIT FABRIC

Knitting is the construction of the elastic, porous fabric, created by interlocking yarns by means of
needles. Knitted fabrics can be made much more quickly and easily than woven fabrics at
comparatively less cost.

Two yarns forming loops in each course of the fabric knit the fabric. Knitting machines form loops
of yarn with many pointed needles or shafts. The vertical rows of loops are called ribs or wales,
and horizontal rows of loops are called courses.

Knitted fabrics are generally light in weight, comfortable in wear even during travel, but yet
require little care to keep their neat appearance. The tendency of knits to resist wrinkling is another
factor to boost up their popularity.

Knitted fabrics are used for designing active clothing such as sports clothing. Their elastic nature
permits for abundant physical activity.

Types of Knitted Fabric Knits

 Weft Knits
o Single Knits
 Single Jersey
 Lacoste
o Double Knits
 Rib Knit
 Purl Knit
 Interlock Knit
 Cable Fabric
 Bird’s Eye
 Cardigans
 Milano Ribs
 Pointelle
 Specialized Weft Knits
o Intarsia
o Jacquard Jerseys
o Knitted Terry
o Knitted Velour
o Sliver Knit

5
 o Fleece
o French Terry
 Warp Knits
o Tricot
o Raschel

3.2: WOVEN FABRICS

Woven fabrics are made by using two or more sets of yarn interlaced at right angles to each other.
Much variety is produced by weaving. Woven fabrics are generally more durable. They can be
easily cut into different shapes and are excellent for producing styles in garments. However, the
raw edges ravel or fray easily and need to be protected. Fabrics having more fabric count (number
of wrap and weft yearns present) keep the shape well. Low count fabrics are less durable and may
snag or stretch.

Woven fabrics are manufactured in different widths depending on the end use. The fabrics used
for apparels usually contain 90 cms width. The Sheeting materials are generally made having a
width of 160 cm/140cms and 150cms/180 cms.

Types of Woven Fabrics

 Buckram Fabric

 Chiffon Fabric

 Denim Fabric

 Drill Fabric

 Gabardine Fabric

 Georgette Fabric

3.3: DENIM FABRIC

Denim is made from rugged tightly woven twill in which the weft passes under two or more warp
threads. Lengthwise, the yard is dyed with indigo or blue dye; horizontal yarns remain white. The
yarns have a very strong twist to make them more durable, but this also affects the denim’s colour.

The yarns are twisted so tightly that indigo dye usually colours only the surface, leaving the center
of the yarn white. The blue strands become the threads that show on the outside of your denim and
the white are the ones that make the inside of your denim look white. This produces the familiar
diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric. Through wear, the indigo yarn surface
gives way, exposing the white yarn underneath which causes denim to fade. Jeans are basic 5
pocket pants or trousers made from denim.

6
Two words come from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge, originally made in Nimes, France.
Originally called serge de Nimes (the fabric of Nimes), the name was soon shortened to denim (de
Nimes). Denim was traditionally coloured blue with natural indigo dye to make blue Jeans, though
“Jean” then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile, the contemporary use of jean comes from the
French word for Genoa, Italy, where the first denim trousers where made. Jeans transcend age,
economic and style barriers. But jeans themselves have reached iconic status.

3.4: Trims and Accessories

In garment manufacturing process main raw material is fabric. It is not possible to make
garment only with fabric. To make complete garment different types of auxiliary materials
are used. These auxiliary materials are called trims and accessories.Garment trims and
accessories are very important to make garments aesthetic, functional and commercially
acceptance. But trimmings and accessories are not same. There function and looks are
completely different. We have discussed about trims and accessories in the following
section. 

List of trims used in apparel manufacturing:

1. Sewing Thread
2. Button
3. Zipper
4. Lining
5. Interlining
6. Motif
7. Rivet
8. Stopper
9. Lace
10. Braid

List of accessories used in garment manufacturing:

1. Hanger
2. Hangtag
3. Poly bag
4. Collar stand
5. Size Tag
6. Tissue paper
7. Backboard
8. Neck board
9. Paper Band
10. Pin/Clip

7
 CHAPTER: 4
GARMENT MANUFACTURING
&MERCHANDISING

CHAPTER-4
4.1 Merchandising

Merchandising is  a business  on marketing activities  responsible for ensuring a

products description both quality and quantity. Merchandising means total
responsibility of a Merchandiser.

Duty of merchandiser describes himself like this-

 A man who collects order from customer sourcing raw materials production on
time with quality and maintains lead time.
 Garments merchandising means buying raw materials & accessories, producing
garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments within
scheduled time.If  anybody has to be designated as  Merchandiser then  the word itself  demands 
some qualities from that individual, now let us see what all are the hidden meanings ther
in the word„‟MERCHANDISER¨
 M- Should have good Managerial capacity.
 E- Efficient in both English written and spoken.
 R- Having high sense of Responsibility.
 C- Always keep commitment.
 H- Leads Honest life.
 A- Attitude should always be positive in resolving any problem.
 N- Never does any argue with buyers and seniors.
 D- Fully Devoted to his service.
 I- Always well Informed about his all orders.

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  S- Sincere in office and daily works.
 E- Enthusiastic in nature.
 R- Regular in e-mail correspondence.

Most importance things for a Merchandiser is
 Communication.
 Planning
 Production Follow Up

The responsibilities of a smart Merchandiser are handling order at four stages.
1. Sourcing for future orders/Buyers
2. New Order
3. Confirmed Order
4. Running Order

4.2 Business Development Procedure:

Apparel industry must be developed with the trend of market otherwise they cannot extend
their business. To collect new buyer and business with them a company must follow th
eprocedure of business development. Buyers have been chosen by two ways. Firstly, Buye
r chooses the supplier and the  second  one sometimes; Adila Apparels want to work with a
particular buyer and then contact with them according to that. Adila Apparels Ltd follow the
procedure of business development, this are given below-

4.3 First email to buyer for business development:

For new business development sellers have to communicate with buyer. Email is the easiest ands
wift way of communication so when seller  will  contract first time  with  buyer  by 
email at thattime have to  mention some important  information about company.  Which kind
of things should be include here this are-

 Information about you and your company.
 Products information about your company

9
  Capacity and productivity.
 Which buyer work with you.
 Attachment a beautiful sample photograph.
 Wearing for feedback.

This kind of information should  be included  in this email.  On the other hand  this email will be

minimum word and maximum communication.

4.4 Sample of first email :

Dear Sir,

I  am X,  SR Merchandiser  of The  Adila Apparels.  We  are  the manufacturer  & exporter of

readymade garments in Bangladesh.

“The Adila Apparels” began its journey into the garments sector in 2015 as garments in
Bangladesh. Since then the organization being run by highly qualified, experienced
andprofessional management and stuff along with Sophisticated Machineries, Latest Technol
ogy,Skilled Workmanship, Substantial Marketing and Proper Discipline. We are ready  and ab
le togive you  100%  quality, best price and service. We believe it is possible to us to enterint
o  themarathon of global market.

All the  factories are 100% export oriented. Our previous practice is the  best  quality of 

Products and on time delivery. We are always committed to the buyers.

Our Products:
Tshirt, Polo shirt, Tank top, Shorts, Trouser, (Cotton, Polyester, CVC, etc.) and many more.
We also produce all kinds of Woven & Sweater item.

Please send us your current inquiry for sampling & costing.

Your kind co-operation would be highly appreciated.

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Best Regards
X
Adila Appeals Ltd.

4.5 Feed – back from buyer in response to first email :

Dear X,

I am pleased about your company, so I want to make a business with you. So you should send
some original sample include with FOB price.

Best regards,

This is happened in case of choosing buyer by Adila
Apparels itself but mostly the buyer choose
the supplier and in that case they send a product pack first and then supplier send the product
according to their requirement.

4.6 Sending quality samples to new buyer for better understanding of

workmanship of factory

Samples play a  vital role to get  new order.  Without  quality sample suppliers can not develop  a

new business,  so sample should be better  quality  before bulk  production.  For  that  reason when
we send quality sample to the buyer we have to follow something, those are:

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 Use combed yarn

Properly dyeing

Good pattern making

Sewing perfectly

Use quality full Accessories

Finishing properly

Use quality full packing elements

Re-check measurement & quality

Send sample with forwarding letter
& measurement sheet

If  merchandisers follow this process to make quality sample and send as like this way, then
buyer will be satisfied and get clear idea about workmanship of factory.

4.7 Approval procedure of sales samples

Sample is made when price is confirmed and orders are placed, usually is M size in all color

12
combinations of expected order. Buyer held a meeting with its customer and records their
response on order quantity per color, size etc. and finally place order to their vendor. Sales
sample basically use catalogue buyer.

Send sales sample to buyer with good

Packing

▼
Buyer check fabric quality

▼
Garments design (Print, Embroidery)

▼
Wash quality

▼
Measurement maintenance

▼
Overall finishing quality

▼
Aapprove  samn

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Garment Costing: In order to achieve perfect garment costing, one must know about all the
activities including purchase of fabrics, sewing, packing, transport, overheads, etc.

Table. 4.9 The fright charges for the Men’sBasic T-shirt. Price of garment

Estimation

Table: The freight charges for the Men's Basic T-shirt. Price of garment estimation is
given

Particulars Light colors Medium colors Dark colors

34's combed yarn Tk.135.00 Tk.135.00 Tk.135.00

Fabric cost per Tk.38.06 Tk.40.13 Tk.44.27

garment

Cost of Trims Tk.0.85 Tk.0.85 Tk.0.85

CMT Charges Tk.11.00 Tk.11.00 Tk.11.00

Cost of accessories Tk.1.35 Tk.1.35 Tk.1.35

Rejection of Tk.1.50 Tk.1.50 Tk.1.50

garments
(commonly 3%)

Cost of Garment Tk.52.76 Tk.54.83 Tk.58.97

Local Transport Tk.1.00 Tk.1.00 Tk.1.00

Profit@15% appro. Tk.7.90 Tk.8.20 Tk.8.90

Commission/ pc Tk.2.00 Tk.2.00 Tk.2.00

Price of Garment Tk.63.66 Tk.66.03 Tk.70.87

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Shipping Charges:

For men's basic T-shirt, the delivery terms in the buyer enquiry as 'FOB'. So sea freight charges
are not added. But the local transport with the cost of garment has to be added. Finally, we have
to convert the Indian rupee value to USD or Euro.

Cost sheet & consumption sheet preparation:

During the fixation of FOB price of a garment following notes are to be followed carefully: 1.
Cost of fabrics/Dzn. garments. 2. Cost of Accessories/Dzn. garments. 3. C.M (Cost of
Manufacturing) /Dzn. Garments. 4. Cost of embellishment (if any) likes print, embroidery, etc
5.Commercial cost.6.Commission (if any) Fabrics Price Knit fabric price is the sum of the below
factors- 1. Yarn price per kg (approx $6.40) 2. Fabric price per yard (approx $0.15) 3. Dyeing
price per kg (approx $1.5) 4. Finishing price per kg (approx $0.50) Thus the fabric price per kg
comes ($6.40+$0.15+$1.5+$0.50)= $8.55 Fabrics consumption for a European T-Shirt is 3.00 kgs
per dozon. So fabrics price per dozon is (3.00 * 8.55) = $25.65

Trimming Price:
Trims cover all the trims used in the garments except the basic fabric. There are hundreds of items
used to manufacture the garments, proper selection of trims and its quality are very important for
styling, otherwise the garment maybe rejected or returned by the customers. As our assignment is
based on basic T-Shirt, normally care label, main label, size label, sewing thread, poly bag, price
ticket, carton, tag pin, gum tape, etc trim are used in a basic T-Shirt. Like, normally the trim cost
per dozen comes approx. $2.00 for basic T-Shirt.

CM calculation:

15
CM means cost of cutting to making. It includes the cost of cutting, cost of sewing and the cost of
packing. It also includes the overhead cost of the plant and the profit margin. Like, Generally CM
per dozen of a basic T-Shirt is $5.00
Other embellishment calculation
Other embellishment means print, embroidery, patch etc that makes any garment more attractive
for customer as here I described about the cost of Harriet shirt where other prints, appliqués and
embroideries are not available so, any embellishment cost is not calculated her.

Commercial cost:
Commercial cost includes LC commission, UD commission, EXP commission, Documentation
cost, Goods send to forwarder cost, etc.

Final garments cost & order confirmation:

Now the final garments cost per dozen is the sum of fabrics cost, trimming cost, CM cost, other
embellishment cost & commercial cost. So as example if a basic style is taken- the garments price
per dozen comes ($25.65+$2.00+$5.00+$1.00)=$33.65 T-Shirt per piece is ($33.65/12)=
$2.81Thus we make manufacturing price & negotiate this price with Buyer. After negotiate price
with buyer we receive order confirmation & L/C from buyer to execute the order.

(The costing sheet of Harriet is attached at Appendix) Shipping Charges:

For men's basic T-shirt, the delivery terms in the buyer enquiry as 'FOB'. So sea freight charges
are not added. But the local transport with the cost of garment has to be added. Finally, we have
to convert the Indian rupee value to USD or Euro.

Consumption Preparation: Fabric consumption:

The garments manufactured in many sizes to fit for everybody. Generally they are in sizes Small
(S), Medium (M), Large (L), extra large (XL) and Double Extra Large (XXL). The quantity ratio
or assortment can be any one of the following approximate ratio. S: M: L: XL: XXL - 1:2:2:2:1 S:
M: L: XL: XXL - 1:2:1:2:1 S: M: L: XL: XXL - 1:2:3:2:2

16
As the price is the same for all these sizes of garments, the author have taken the centre size large
(L) for average calculation. Generally, the quantity of L size will be higher or equal to the quantity
of each of other sizes.

Men's Basic T-shirt:

Description: Men's Basic T-shirt-short sleeves- 100% Cotton 140 GSM Single jersey - 1 x 1 ribs at
neck - solid dyed - light, medium and dark colors in equal ratio. Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL Ratio: 1:
2: 2: 2: 1

Export carton:
7 ply -120 GSM virgin corrugated - sea worthy. Cartons are to be strapped with 2 nylon straps.

Measurements in cm:
(Finished garment) Size: L Chest - 60 cm Length - 78 cm Sleeve length - 24 cm Neck rib width - 3
cm Hem - 3 cm Patterns are generally made with the seam allowance and cutting allowance.
Generally, 12 cm is added with the total of body length and sleeve length.
That is, Fabric consumption =(Body length + Sleeve length + allowance) * (Chest + allowance) *
2 * GSM 10000 = (70 + 24 + 12) * (60 + 3) * 2 * 140 10000 = 187 grams

Body & Sleeves: 187 grams

Table 4.10 Body& Sleeves cost

Particulars Light colors Medium colors Dark colors

34's combed yarn Tk.135.00 Tk.135.00 Tk.135.00

Knitting charge Tk.8.00 Tk.8.00 Tk.8.00

Dyeing charge Tk.35.00 Tk.45.00 Tk.55.00

Compacting charge Tk.6.00 Tk.6.00 Tk.6.00

Fabric wastage @ 5% Tk.9.20 Tk.9.70 Tk.10.70
Fabric cost per kg Tk.193.20 Tk.203.70 Tk.224.70
Fabric consumption per 197 gms 197 gms 197 gms

17
garment
Fabric cost per garment Tk.38.06 Tk.40.13 Tk.44.27

Cost of Trims:
The accessories which are attached to the garments are called Trims. Now the authors have taken
Men's Basic T-shirts, as example. Let us see what are the trims required for this style. Labels:
Woven main label (2.5 cm width x 7 cm length): Tk 0.35 Polyester printed wash care label: Single
color print: Tk 0.10

Hang tag:
Tk 0.40 So the total cost of trims is Tk 0.85 per garment.

Cost of accessories:
Polybags: Normal - Tk 0.30 per garment
Master Polybag: Tk 2 per master polybags to contain 8 garments - Tk 0.25 per garment. Export
carton: Normal: Tk. 40 per carton to contain 48 garments - Tk 0.80 per garment. So the total
cost of accessories is Tk 1.35 per garment.

Consumption calculation of fabrics, Accessories & cartoons Fabric consumption

calculation:
Body length = 73cm.
Chest = 60cm.
Sleeve length = 22cm
GSM = 220 2(B.L+S.L) *
Chest * GSM = 2(73+22) * 60 * 220 100 100 1000
= 190 * 60 * 220 100 100 1000
= 1.9 * .60 * .22
= 0.250 kg/pes *12
= 3.0096 kg/DZ + 10% (10% Wastage)
= 3.0096 kg/DZ +0.30
= 3.3096 kg/DZ Carton consumption Length
= 60cm Width

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= 40cm Height
= 40c 2(L+W+Allounce 5cm) * (W+H+Allounce 2.5cm) 10000
= 2(60+40+5) *(40+402.5) 10000
= 17325 1000 1.7325 sqm
Poly L=12”
W = 10”
Thickness = .08mm
75000 = Pcs on 1 Lbs L*W*THICKNESS
= 75000 12*10*.08
= 75000 960
= 78.125 Pcs on 1 lb

4.11 Finishing product:

 Fabric booking
After receiving order confirmation from buyer merchandisers chase buyer to provide PO sheet
(purchase order) which includes color & size wise break down of the total quantity. Then they will
go for denim/knit or the necessary fabrics booking. In case of knit, yarn is the first element of knit
fabric. So to make fabric they have to book suitable yarn from home or abroad. To import yarn
from abroad it need approx 44/45 days and to buyer yarn from Bangladesh it need approx 20/30
days. After receive yarn we go for fabrics knitting and then coloring of the fabrics. After dyed
fabrics is ready to make garments. In case of denim the process is same but some cases it
fluctuates in terms of price and place.
 Trim booking
After getting trim information from Buyer they have to develop the same to get approval. Then
they book trims from respective supplier to get cheaper price to minimize the cost. And, for
shipment process they need to store every trim in-house so that production cannot get hampered.
The all processes go parallel when an order is confirmed. When the size set sample is confirmed,
the processing of production starts.
 Trim booking
After getting trim information from Buyer they have to develop the same to get approval. Then
they book trims from respective supplier to get cheaper price to minimize the cost. And, for
shipment process they need to store every trim in-house so that production cannot get hampered.

19
The all processes go parallel when an order is confirmed. When the size set sample is confirmed,
the processing of production starts.
 PI sheet & its items
In foreign trade transaction, a Performa invoice is a document that states a commitment from the
seller to reserve some goods to be sold to a certain person, the buyer. the buyer places an order and
if the seller agrees, it extend a Performa invoice and agrees to all the terms specified in it, the
goods are send and the Performa is replaced by a commercial invoice. The POI sheet depends on
the demand of buyer.
What are the items will include in this sheet are-
Top part:
 Name and address of seller
 Invoice number and date.
 Buyer name and address.
Body/middle part:
 Product description.
 Unit price.
 Total price.
Bottom part:
 Shipment date.
 Shipment terms FOB or C&F.
 Country of origin.
 Terms of payment, at sight or 120 days.
 Others special terms.

M L/C Check list items and those items must be included in this L/C.

 Types of L/C.
 Issue date.
 Expiry date.

Issuing bank details

 Advising bank details.
 Seller name and address.
 Total amount.

20
  Currency of payment.
 Tolerance (2-5% plus or minus)
 Port of loading.
 Description of goods.
 Shipping terms (FOB/ C&F)
 List of documents required.

Master L/C confirmation procedure :

M.L/C must be declared by UCP version

Check important items

Confirm M/L/C by E-mail

4.12 E-mail to suppliers for samples of yarn, fabrics & different types of

accessories for buyer approval

Dear Mr. X,
I got an order from Spanish buyer. Its order no. # TW0832 and order quantity is 50000 Pcs. So I
need yarn, Sewing thread and accessories within 15 days. Please see the attach file.
 Combed yarn.

21
  Sewing thread.
 Accessories.
Best regards,
Mr. Y
Sr. Merchandiser M.M. Knitwear Ltd.
Buyer approval procedure of fabrics, color & accessories:
Fabric and accessories approval from the buyer is very important. According to the buyer color
wise you have to outsourcing of the fabric. After collection of the fabric lap dip is done and show
the fabric on the swatch submission card for better understanding of the buyer. After getting
buyer‟s confirmation about order it is important because to maintain the quality they expected it
should be fulfilled and as new buyer it should be well concerned.

Fabric Construction
▼

Fabric GSM
▼

Color Shade
▼

Wash and light test

▼

Accessories Quality Check

▼

Label Barcode Check

▼

Finishing Accessories

22
 ▼

Give the approval

▼

Buyer approval procedure

23
CHAPTER - 5
STORE SECTION OR INVENTORY SYSTEM
5.1 Process Sequence of Store Section:

STORE SECTION

Sub Store Central Store

Fabric Store Accessories

Store
5.2 Working Process of Fabric & Accessories Store:
Goods invoice receive

Inventory

Quality check

Positive relase from Quality

Goods recive note (GRN)

Material requization note (MRN) & Issue

Delivery (Fabric in cutting & accessories in Sewing)

5.3 Flowchart of Store:

24
 Receiving P.O sheet 
↓ 
Receiving Packing list  
↓ 
Receiving Product 
↓ 
Inventory 
↓ 
Inspection (IQC) 
↓ 
Stored in rack
↓ 
Maintain allocation board 
↓ 
Issuing goods 
↓ 
Sustaining Balance 
↓ 
Closing Summery

5.4 Accessories list of Adila Apparels:

1. Main Label
2. Care Label
3. Size Label
4. Price Label
5. Leather Patch
6. Zipper

25
  Plastic
 Metal
 Nylon

7. Name label
8. Button
 Hole shank
 Nipple/ Vintage
 Snap Button
 Horn Button

9. Elastic
10. Tag pin
11. Hang Tag
12. Carton Sticker
13. Barcode level
14. Tissue Paper
15. Plastic Clip
16. Flat Clip
17. Metal Clip
18. Sewing Thread
19. Poly Bag
20. Pin
21. Gum Tap
22. Hanger Sticker (for tie set)
23. Hanger
24. Leg sticker

5.5 Accessories Inspection:

Nickel Test

For all Metal Accessories like Fig: Accessories Inspection

 Zipper
 Button
 Fly

Chemical used in nickel test- Ammonia & Dimethyl Glyoxime

26
Result: After brushing the accessories by cotton bar with Ammonia & Dimethyl Glyoxime, if the
accessories color change to pink. It’s indicating the presence of nickel and then it will be
rejected. If color doesn’t change, then it’s ok.

After passing nickel test then 10% of accessories are inspected by QC inspector. If the defectives
amounts cross over 1% then the accessories will fail. In the situation according to suggestion of
QA & QC manager these accessories send to the merchandiser and buyer representatives finally
to work according to their decision.

Accessories are inspection 100% for some defects such as-

1. Missing of composition
2. Size mistake
3. Barcode mistake
4. Style mistake in the hang tag
5. Metal item inspection such as magnet test, Nickel test, Rust test, ferrous test etc.

5.6 Activities of fabric store section:

 Fabric in-house
 Fabric inventory
 Fabric inspection
 Shade numbering of fabric
 Shrinkage test of fabric
 Swatch card maintain
 Delivery

I. Fabric in-house & Inventory: According to buyer requisition or industries requisition or

industries requisition fabric received from the fabric supplier and checked the quantity.

II. Fabric inspection: Fabric is inspected by 4 point system

III. Shrinkage test of fabric: After washing fabric may be increased or decreased

IV. Shad numbering of fabric: According to different shade (acceptable) of fabric rolls are
arranged that those rolls.

For example: 30 fabrics rolls

After assessment shade group are-

Group A Roll 1, 6, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18

27
 Group B Roll, 2, 3, 10,4, 5, 11, 12

Group C Roll 21, 7, 8, 19, 25, 28

Group D Roll, 9, 26 23, 16

Group E Roll 2, 20, 22, 24, 30,9

5.7 Fabric Inspection:

Fabric inspection means the quality check of fabric. The main purpose of fabric inspection is to
find out the faults and defect to make sure better quality. There are various types of faults found
in fabric which is inspected during inspection.

Faults and defects found in fabric:

 Slub :-
 Knot:-
 Missing: - Missing weft wise yarn.
 Weaving: - Warp wise slightly projecting or non compact yarn.
 Hole: - Hole in fabric.
 Thick yarn: - Weft or width wise thick yarn.
 Stain mark: - Weft or width wise non compact yarn.
 End out: - Warp wise yarn missing.
 Spot: - Spot by oil mark or others.
 Color yarn: - Other’s color yarn from the fabric color.
 Etc.

Fabric inspection system:

Fabric inspections are three types:

Such as - a) Four point system

b) Ten point system
c) Graniteville system/78 method

Among them 4 point system is mostly used.

In Adila Apparels they are following four point system

Defects Point

0 to 3 inch 1

28
3 to 6 inch 2

6 to 9 inch 3

Over 9 inch 4

 10% fabric is inspected. If it’s failed then 15% then 30% and then 100% fabric is
inspected.
 If the amount of fabric is less then 1000m then 100% fabric is inspected.
 Accepted point is different to types of fiber and buyer.
 Fabric hole is directly counted as 4 point.

 For one yard faulty fabric highest point is 4.

 Slab, Spot, Sundry faults, Foreign yarn, Naps for each 1 point.

 Weft bar, Shade bar, Hole, Check missing for 4 point.

 Missing yarn, Thick yarn for each 2/3/4 point.

Fabric Inspection Formula:

Counted point 36

Per 100 square yards= * × 100

Inspectional fabric length Fabric width

Less than 28 points/100 square yards Fabric acceptable

Above 28 points/ 100 square yards Fabric rejects.

 If any fabric rolls cross over 40 points then the fabric roll directly is rejected

5.8 Machine used in fabric inspection:

Name- Fabric inspection machine

Brabd name- Modern machine

Origin – Japan
Fig: Fabric inspection Machine

29
Machine parts:

 Motor
 Switch box
 Power switch
 Motion switch
 Light switch
 Counter pully
 Counter meter
 Beam roller
 Roller stand
 Etc.

Counter pully diameter is 11cm. If it’s running about 9.10 times then 1m fabric is passed through
the machine and automatically this reading is measured on the counter.

5.9 Fabrics Receipt, Issue & Storage

Purpose & Scope:

To receive, issue and store of the various fabrics for Adila Apparels Ltd.

Responsibility:
The designated store officer / Jr. Executive / Executive are responsible for this process.

Procedure:
Receiving:
 Fabrics or Trims & Accessories received against Purchase Order (PO Sheet), Performa
Invoice, Commercial Invoice, Shipping Advise & packing list.
 Consignments basis packing list file job wise and buyer wise.
 Communicate with the C&F for the approximate in-house date of the import fabrics
consignment and reserve the storage space for the new consignment.
 Once the consignment is in-house, check for the security seal for gate entry.
 Un-loading process done by tally counting.
 After received The goods, short out the goods regarding the summary packing list.

30
5.10 Inventory Check:
Inventory check as per packing list done by below procedure:
1. Buyer wise.
2. Fabrics construction wise.
3. Color wise.
4. Style wise.
5. Lot and Batch wise.
6. Size wise.
7. Storage

31
CHAPTER - 6
MACHINE DESCRIPTION
6.1 Machines of Inspection Section

Machine Purpose Picture

Fabric Inspection To inspection the raw
Machine fabrics for defects.
 Brand: UZU
 Model: UZ-F

Fabric Moisture Meter To test the fabrics

 Brand: Aqua Boy moisture
 Model: LMIII

Hand Bar-code To read the barcode on

 Brand: Scan Pal label, cartons, polybags
etc.

Button Pull Tester To Pull test of button and

 Brand: IMADA snap

32
G.S.M Cutter To cut the G.S.M from
 Brand: Texlab fabric
 Diameter:
11.28cm

Electric weight balance To measurement the

 Brand: G.S.M weight.
SCHRODER

6.2 Machines of Cutting Section

Machine Purpose Picture

Straight Knife To cut the fabric layer
 Brand: Mack according to the marker
 Model: KS-AU V
220
 RPM: 3000-3600

Piping Cutter To Cut the piping fabric

 Brand: UZU according to
 Model: UZ-899A measurement

33
6.3 Machines of Sewing Section

Machine Purpose Picture

Fusing Machine To attach interlining
Brand: Cool Set with fabric

Heat Transfer Machine To attach heat seal

label on the fabric

Velcro Cutter To Cut the Velcro in

 Brand: Cutex specific measurement
 Origin: Korea

Single needle Lock  Label attach

Stitch  Top stitch
 UBT  Tack stitch
 Brand: Brother
 Model: S-
7000DD-403
 Origin: Japan

Double needle Lock

Stitch  Top stitch
 UBT  Tack stitch
 Brand: Juki
 Model: LH-
3568A-7
 Origin: Japan

34
Single needle lock  Automatic
stitch edge cutting
 Vertical edge  Edge joining
trimmer
 Brand: Siruba
 Model: DL918
 Origin: Taiwan

Over Lock  Automatic

 Brand: Pegasus edge cutting
 Model: M952-  Over edge lock
52H  Side seam,
 Max Needle 2 Waist band
 Max thread 4 attach,
 Origin: Japan Shoulder etc.

Over Lock (Interlock)  Automatic

 Brand: Pegasus edge cutting
 Model: M932-  Over edge lock
355  Side seam,
 Max Needle 3 Shoulder etc.
 Max thread 6
 Origin: Japan

MNCS  Waist Band,

 Brand: Top stitch etc.
KANSAI
 Model: DFB-
140
 Origin: Japan

Flat Lock  Bottom Rolling

 Brand: Pegasus  Neck Binding
 Model: W1500  Piping
 Origin: Japan  Top stitch etc.

Bar-Tack  Pocket corner

 Brand: Brother  Attach belt
 Model: KE- loops
430F  Applied on
 Origin: Japan extra force
area

35
Chain Stitch  Joining two
 Brand: Siruba parts
 Model: L381  Top stitch
 Origin: Taiwan  Neck binding
etc.

6.4 Machine of Finishing Section

Machine Purpose Picture

Metal Detector  To detect metal
Machine in garments
 Brand:
HASIMA
 Model: HN-
770G
 Origin: Japan

36
CHAPTER - 7
SAMPLE, PATERN, MARKER
7.1 Sample, Patten, Marker
This Section is varies factory to factory because in some industry this section is individual and in
some factories it is under the product development section. In Adila Apparels sample section is
run by the product development department. Sample section & PD is related to each other. So
the activity of PD and sample section is given combine.

7.2 Sample:
 The style done by designer or developer.
 Particular purchase order.
 Sample is the specimen of any product.
 Any revision to the style work.
 Sample is a specimen or we can say a part which shows that the whole is look like.
 Conform with any specific requirement
 Sample is the physical form of design.

7.3 Flow chart of sample department:

Sketch/design
(It is given by buyer for make sample and products are made according to that style of designed)
▼

Basic block
(Without any allowance)
▼

Working pattern
(To make of garment according to design)
▼

Sample making
(Sample is made by sample man)
▼

Basic manufacturing difference

(Critical path is identify)

37
 ▼

Approved sample
(Sample approved by buyer)

Costing
(To estimated the making charge, trimming, fabric required and profit)

Design or Sketch:
It is nothing but one kind of engineering art including all measurement of particular style.

Basic Block:
It is an individual component of garments without any design or style.

Working Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension. .

Problem of Production or Production Related Matter:

Production related problems should be eliminated in this step.

Approved Sample:
The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.

Send to Buyer:
When all process is done, then the garments are sent to buyer.

Production Pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance.

7.4 Sample types & Development process:

1. Development sample
2. Salesman Sample
3. Photo Sample
4. Approval Sample
5. Size set Sample

38
 6. Mock up Sample
7. Pre-production Sample
8. Production Sample
9. Shipping Sample

7.5 The Details Attached to the Garment Sample:

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached
to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has
demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

 Ref no.
 Color
 Fabric
 Composition
 Description
 Quantity
 Style no/ Size
 Store

There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as the merchandiser is the
person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this
sampling department will work under the supervision of merchandising department. Also as
the samples are to be made according to the buyers’ price ranges and quality levels,
merchandiser has to advise sampling department suitably.

7.6 Pattern Making:

Pattern is the one of important element of a design. In a garment industries there are two type of
pattern uses based on their capability. Like

 Manual System
 Computer Aided Design (CAD)

Mostly big companies are use CAD (Computer aided design) as well as little companies’ uses
manual pattern. In Tusuka they use CAD and also manual pattern in some cases. Basically
INVESTRONICA Software uses here. There are 5-6 high skilled pattern masters working here.

According to the required consumption pattern is produced. Pattern is produced for each and
every size like,

 Small (S)
 Medium (M)
 Large (L)

39
  Extra Large (XL)

7.7 Marker Making

Marker is needed before starting bulk cutting. For marker making there is also two system

 Manual System
 Computerized System (CAD)

Adila Apparels is mainly making marker by CAD system but also making by manual process (if
needed) and they use INVESTRONICA software for marker making

In manual marker making process, marker man use pattern paper to draw different garments
parts in marker paper.

But in computerized system it is making by an expert marker man and finally printed by wintex
plotter machine.

In computerized system marker efficiency is more than manual system and it also reduce time
and cost.

Fig. 7.1: Marker making machine (Wintex Plotter M/C)

7.8 Fabric spreading:

 Spread the fabric for cutting according to the marker.

40
  It can be done by machine or manually
 It is done manually in most of the garments of Bangladesh.
 Fabric width is at best 57.5 inch.
 Normally not more than 56 inch.
 Length is taken according to marker length.
 In case of long length two or more worker is required for uniform spreading.
 As per marker requirement fabric is taken for spreading from the main fabric roll.
 No of fabric layer is to set depend on cutting capacity.

Number of plies depends on:

1. Capacity of the cutting machine.

2. Volume of production.
3. Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery).
4. Thickness of fabric.
No. of garments spread
Total Piles spread =
No of garments in marker

Requirements of Spreading Process:

1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric must
be at least equal to marker length and width.

2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will be
tagged and will be avoided.

3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces up, all
faces down, face to face etc.

4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.

5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used under
the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.

6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defect in
garments due to variation in dimension.

7. Checks and stripes should be matched

41
Ideal Lay height of Cutting

Table 7.9 Ideal lay height of cutting

Heavy Weight 4-5" 5-4"

Med Weight 3-4" 3-3.5"

slights Weight 2.5-3" 2-2.25"

42
CHAPTER - 8
8.1 CUTTING SECTION
8.2 Fabric Cutting :

Cutting is the major operation of the cutting room, when the spread fabric is cut into garment
components. Of all the operations in the cutting room this is the most decisive, because once the
fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious mistakes. Cutting can be done
manually using powered knives or by computer-controlled system.

Process Sequence in Cutting Room

Fabric requisition

Shrinkage difference

Cutting ratio

Pattern Making

Marker Making

Fabric Spreading

Cutting Layout

Fabric Cutting (Panel cutting)

(Sorting, Bundling, Sizing)

Numbering

100% checking (Panel check)

Mending / replacing if needed.

Shorting & Bundling

Input to Sewing Room

43
8.3 Fabric cutting:

Factors affect the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:

 Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.)

 Thickness of fabric.
 Design characteristics of finished garment.
 Machines and tables used.

There are three types of cutting machine.

 Manual:
 Die cutting
 Drill cutting
 Hand operated cutting scissor

 Manually operated power knife:

 Straight knife cutting m/c
 Round knife cutting m/c
 Band knife cutting m/c

 Computerized cutting
 Knife
 Water jet
 Laser
 Plasma torch

Straight knife cutting machine is mostly used in

Adila Sweater & Trouser.

Fig: A cutter man with straight Knife

Cutting M/C

44
8.4 Description of Cutting m/c:
Straight Knife Cutting M/C:
This is designed with a low center of gravity for ease of handling and features the
best power to gravity weight ratio in the industry.
It is designed for maximum productivity and minimum fatigue. The XD-629 is
the obvious Choice when one machine is required to perform many roles. It is
suitable for cutting most light to medium weight fabric.

BEST USED FOR:

Light to medium weight fabrics & Woven fabric.
FEATURES:
• Automatic sharpening system
• 8” blade size
• Low-profile ergonomic design
• 1-1/2” stroke

OPTIONS
Specify U-ground or twist plug when ordering Machine. Fine, medium and
course sharpening bands are available

Specification of Straight knife cutting machine for fabric cutting is given below:

Brand Name Mack

Origin Japan
Frequency 50/60 Hz
Volt 50/60 Hz
Phase 1
Blade Straight bar blade
Speed 3000/3600
Current AC

Some advantages from others which are follows:

 Comparatively cheap
 Can be transferred easily
 Easily operated
 Round corner can cut smooth easily
 Fabric can be cut from any angle
 Directly garments components separated from fabric lays
 Properties of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

 Directly cut the pattern pieces from the fabric lays

45
  Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric
 Cutting speed high
 Sharp and heavy corners can be cut
 Blade is very sharp

Factors considered for choice of cutting:

Type of the fabric: Technique should be such as that it should not damage the
fabric. In case of natural fiber fabric, all methods may be applied, but Laser and
Plasma method is not suitable for Man Made Fiber fabric.

Accuracy of cutting: for higher accuracy, computerized method may be adapted

& for lower accuracy, manual technique may be suitable.

Available of cutting machine: machine is available to suit the cutting technique.

Volume of cutting: For small amount of cutting, round knife is suitable and for
large volume of cutting, straight knife is suitable.

Quality of cutting: Computerized cutting methods are suitable for high quality
fabric cutting and manually operated powered knife is suitable for comparatively
lower cutting quality.

Time factor: For urgent requirement of fabric cutting, straight knife is more
suitable as that technique requires comparatively less preparatory time.

8.5 Numbering:

Sorting out the components according to size and for each size make individual bundle.

Cutting no :3
Bundle no :2
Style no : 1700
Quantity : 10
Color : Red
Parts name : Pocket
Size M L : 8c
Serial no : 145-170=26

8.6 Bundling:

Bundle Card:
The bundle card is most important in the garments section. In export qualify
garments any type of shading and size mistake is not accepted, so it is used.
Because buyer can not accepted any types of shading and size mistake garments.

46
Understanding the information in a Bundle card:

C- 7 : Cutting number Seven.

723 : Bundle Number.
HPB : Hammer pocket big.
1912-1936 : Lay number.
5TE : Size.
Quantity : 25 pcs

Factors involved in Cutting Fabrics:

Factors affect the cutting process for fabrics are as follows:-

 Nature of fabric (grain line shade, twill etc.)

 Thickness of fabric.
 Design characteristics of finished garment.
 Machines and tables used.

Requirements of the Cutting Process:

8.9 Precision of cut- It depends on:

 Methods of cutting employed.

 Marker planning- distance between two pattern pieces.
 Marker marking- correct marking by pen/pencil.
 Condition of cutting equipment- machine, blade etc.
 Skill and motivation of the operator.


8.10 Clean edge- Free from fraying.

8.11 Un fused edge- High temperature produced during cutting can fuse fabric edges by melting.
Unfused edges can be ensured by taking the following measures:

 Well sharpened blade.

 Use of anti-fusion (heat absorbent) paper.
 Spraying silicon lubricants on the blade.
 Less cutting speed.

47
  Reducing the height of the lay.

8.12Support of the lay- using a polyethylene sheet or nylon bristle under the bottom ply

8.13 Consistent cutting- all plies should be of same dimension

Cutting Tools that mostly used on cutting department in garment industry:

Here is a list of cutting tools and accessories often used on cutting department in garment
industry:
1. Scissor
2. Straight Knife.
3. Band Knife
4. Round Knife
5. Drill Machine.

Here Scissor is used in 100% cases in cutting section. Straight Knife is used in 100% cases for
bulk cutting directly from lay cutting.

CHAPTER - 9
9.1 SWEING SECTION
9.2 Sewing:

48
This is the main assembly stage of the production process, where the operators stitch fabric cut
pieces together, and a garment is assembled. Some one called production is the main body of a
garments industry.

Fig: Sewing lay out of Adila trousers

9.3 Process Sequence of Sewing Section:

Production

49
 Planning Layout Sewing Finishing

Garments Analysis Line Balancing Parts storing/racking

Target setup for production Line setup Parts distribution to the worker
Machine layout Process distribution Position mark to components where
required
Operator layout Parts making (individual)
Quality control of product Inline Quality Checking/auditing
Parts assembling
Inline quality audit.
Output counting & checked with the
target
End line quality audit

9.4 Name of the machines used in sewing section are:

 Single needle lock stitch Machine

 Double needle lock stitch Machine
 Single needle chain stitch Machine
 Double needle chain stitch Machine
 Multi needle chain stitch Machine
 3 thread Over lock Machine
 5 thread Over lock Machine
 Bar tack Machine
 Button hole Machine
 Button attaching Machine
 Snap button attaching Machine
 Velcro Machine
 Feed of the arm Machine
 Fusing Machine

Activities of sewing section:

Attend pre-production meeting

50
 Receive sample

Receive work sheet

Receive Approved swatch card

Operation Break-down

Machine layout

Receive cut Fabric from cutting section as per (MRN)

Receive Sewing pattern from pattern maker

Input

Start production

Line Balancing

Target setting

Productions follow up

In line quality check (Randomly)

100% Quality check of full garments

Hand over complete Garments to finishing section

Show hourly production

51
 Prepare every day input and production report

Maintain discipline and working environs

9.5 Different types of stitches:

We found the following stitch during working in tusuka trouser

 CHAIN STITCH
 LOCK STITCH
 TOP STITCH
 BACK STITCH
 ¼ TOP STITCH
 1/16 TOP STITCH
 BARTEK STITCH
 BUTTON HOLE STITCH
 OVER LOCK STITCH
 ZIGGZAG STITCH
 TUCK STITCH

9.6 Description of Different Type Sewing Machines:

Plain m/c:
Component:
 One needle
 Two tensioners
 Three guide
 One hook
 Two thread
 One bobbin case
 One magnate guide

Application:
 Bottom hemming
 Belt top seem stitch
 Belt joint stitch
 Loop tack stitch
 Pocket joint stitch
 Zipper joint
 Flap top stitch
 Flap joint

52
  Fly top stitch
 Flap 1/4 stitch
 Front rise stitch
 Back rise stitch
Over lock m/c:
Component:
 5 thread
 4 tensioner
 2 knifes (up / down)
 2 needle for 5 thread
 1 needle for 3 thread
 3 looper for 5 thread
 2 lopper for 3 thread

Applications:
 Over lock stitch
Bar tack m/c:

Applications:

 To created bar tack stitches in garments.

 Loop attach

 Fly make

 Pocket side

 Front side

 Back pocketing

 zipper lay

 In seem

Flat lock

Component:

 4 tensioner

 3 thread

 Contain a holder

53
  2 needle

Applications:

 Zigzag stitch

 Knit hemming

 Loop making

Chain stitch m/c:

Component:

 2 needle

 2 lopper

 4 thread

 4 tensioner (back 2/front 2)

Applications:

 Back rise stitch

 Back yoke stitch
 Top sin ¼ stitch

Feed off the Arm m/c:

Component:

 2 needle
 2 Lopper
 4 thread (Lopper 2/needle 2)
 Contains T & Magnate guide
 3 tensioner

54
Applications:
 Back rise stitch
 Inseam stitch
 Back yoke top sin
 Side top sin

Eye late Button holing m/c:

Component:

 3 thread or 4 thread
 1 needle
 Contains bobbin case
 2 lopper
 Contains a hammer
Applications:
 To make eye late hole in garments.

Button Attach m/c:

Component:

 2 thread
 1 needle
 Contains shoulder, shoulder Cap bobbin catching
Applications:
 To attach button in garments

8.7 Different type of sewing fault:

1. Skip/ Drop stitch

55
 2. Uneven stitch
3. Over stitch
4. Joint stitch
5. Raw edge
6. Tension loose
7. Broken stitch
8. Puckering
9. Open stitch
10. Oil spot
11. Shading
12. Incorrect stitch per inch
13. Pleat
14. Needle cut
15. Wrong Thread
16. Wrong size/ care label
17. Slanted
18. Wrong button placement
19. Run off stitch
20. Etc

9.8 Industrial engineering

Industrial engineering is that branch of engineering, which deals with the Productivity increases
the using all the available resources. These resources are following.

I. Men
II. Materials
III. Money
IV. Machine
V. Methods
VI. Systems
VII. Land/space

Industrial engineering provides us a systematic (step by step) organized way of increasing

productivity using simple techniques.

Productivity:

It is defined as the ratio of output and input i.e.

56
 Productivity = Output / Input

9.9 Scope of I.E.

Industrial engineering techniques are applicable everywhere, starting from a small Office, home,
training places, small industry to a large industry.

It helps in:

 Better layout planning.

 Designing work aids.

 Re structuring an organization/ Re engineering

 Methods improvement.

 Training in better methods

 Setting SAMs for the better methods

 Problem solving using studies by scientific methods

9.10 Advantages:

 Managing extra work in the same available space.

 Vacating extra premises got on rent.

 Increased output with the same manpower and machines.

 Increased quality due to better managing/methods

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  Reduced throughput /cycle time, using refined layouts.

CHAPTER - 10
10.1 Garments Finishing:
Garment finishing through wet processing is responsible for adding beauty to the garment.
Proper finishing could provide better look to the garment, change the feel of the fabric and bring
about a change to the texture of the fabric. There are various types of finishes like peach finish,
anti-microbial finish, wrinkle free finish, aroma finish, UV guard finish, acid wash, enzyme
wash, etc.

10.2 Process Flow Chart of Garment Finishing:  

Thread Suction (Thread Sucker M/c)
↓
Ironing sewing defect check
↓
Quality Check
↓
Metal Detection Spot defect check
↓
Accessories Attach
(Hang Tag, Price Tag, Hanger, Sticker, Security Alarm etc.)
↓
QA Inspection
↓
Folding/Rolling
↓
Assortment
↓
QA Supervision
↓
Cartooning/Packaging
↓
Ready to shipment

10.3 Object of Finishing:

 To enhance the suitability of the fabric for end use.

 To improve appearance and sale appeal for comport and utility.

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10.4 Materials used in garment finishing:
 Neck board
 Back board
 Collar stand
 Butterfly
 Tie placket support
 Fit label
 M-clip
 T-clip
 Metal clip
 Cuff link
 Droop loop
 Cable tie
 Boa tie
 Full board
 Hand tag
 Tag pin
 Tissue paper
 Al pin
 Ball pin
 Elastic clip
 Hanger
 Poly bag
 Size sticker
 Gun tap
 Inner box
 Muster cartoon box
 Pp belt
 Blister
 Etc.

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10.5 Garment Inspection:
Flow Chart of Garment Inspection

Confirmation of Quantity
↓
Confirmation of accessories
↓
Size specification inspection
↓
In side Inspection
↓
Out side Inspection
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing

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CHAPTER - 11
MAINTENANCE
11.1 Maintenance of Machinery
Maintenance of machinery is very essential mechanical effort for achieving smooth running of
different machines. Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way
that trouble free services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality
required by the customers is sustained. On time maintenance increase m/c lifetime & ensures
trouble free services.

11.2 Objective of Maintenance

 To keep the factory plants, equipment’s, machine tools in an optimum working
condition.
 To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to customer.
 To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thus to have control over the
production program.
 To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.
 To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.
12.3 Types of Maintenance:
Breakdown Maintenance (BM)
This type of maintenance states the maintenance strategy, after the equipment failure equipment
is repaired. This maintenance strategy was mainly implemented in the manufacturing
organizations before 1950. In this stage, machines are serviced only when repair is required. This
idea has some weaknesses such as the following: unplanned stoppages, excessive damage, spare
parts problems, high repair costs, excessive waiting and maintenance time, high trouble shooting
problems.
Preventive Maintenance (PM)
This concept is a type of physical checkup of the equipment to prevent equipment breakdown.
Preventive maintenance includes activities which are started after a period of time or amount of
machine use. This type of maintenance depends on the estimated probability that the equipment

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will break down in the specified interval. The preventive works are as follows: lubrication, 
cleaning, parts replacement, tightening, adjustment.
Predictive Maintenance (PdM)
Predictive maintenance is often mentioned as condition based maintenance (CBM). In this
strategy, maintenance is started in response to a specific equipment condition or performance
deterioration. The analytic techniques are organized to measure the physical condition of the
equipment such as temperature, noise, vibration, lubrication, and corrosion. When one or more of
these indicators reach a set deterioration level, maintenance initiatives are assumed to restore the
equipment to desired condition. This means that equipment is taken out of service only when
direct evidence exists that deterioration has happened. Predictive maintenance is based on the
same principle as preventive maintenance. The advantages of predictive maintenance are based
on the need to perform maintenance only when the repair is really necessary, not after a specified
period of time.
Corrective Maintenance (CM)
The main core of this concept is to prevent equipment failures. This type of maintenance system
has been applied to the improvement of equipment; hence the equipment failure can be removed
(improving the reliability) and the equipment can be simply maintained (improving equipment
maintainability). The main difference between corrective and preventive maintenance is based on
the time of maintenance action. In the corrective action system a problem must exist before
corrective actions are taken. The corrective maintenance is following some purposes such as
reliability, maintainability, safety, reducing design weakness, reducing deterioration and failures, 
aiming at maintenance-free equipment.
Maintenance Prevention (MP)
This type of maintenance system is based on the design phase of equipment. Equipment is
designed such that they are maintenance free and an ideal condition of “what the equipment and
the line must be” is attained. In the development of new equipment, MP activities must begin at
the design stage of equipment. Maintenance prevention often applies some earlier equipment
failures and feedback from production areas to ensure equipment design for production systems.

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11.4 Maintenance for Sewing Machine
Lubrication:
Since the life of the m/c and its correct working depend to a large extend adequate and proper
lubrication. It is recommended that the instructions given in the lubrication charts be followed
conscientiously. The Company cannot be need responsible for faults that arise from wrong or
inadequate lubrication.
Oiling Needles:
Too much oil is preferable to too little. Dark vertical lines in the fabric originate not from
excessive oiling.
The Cleaning of Needle:
Thin oil is most suitable for this work, about one point heated to a temperature not exceeding
160ºF poured into the oiling position of the m/c.
General Cleaning Schedule:
Long m/c life, maximum output & trouble free running depend upon proper care and
maintenance. A general overhaul should take place annually when single shifts are worked &
correspondingly at more frequent interval.
Maintenance Procedure:
 For there is any mechanical fault of machine, which is responsible for production
hamper, operator informs mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitters come and observe
the problem firstly, and then they begin to fix it.
 If mechanical fitters were unable to fix it, then they inform technical in-charge, he then
comes in spot and fixes it.
 For there is any electrical problem of machine or serious founding mechanical problem,
mechanical and electrical department are informed, they come and fix the problem.
 For restorative maintenance, senior production officer orders mechanical fitters to fit
required machine for cam and needle arrangement and other necessary requirements in
case of new design development.

Table 11.1 Maintenance Tools & Equipment’s and their Function

Maintenance tools & equipment’s Function
1. Adjustable wrench Used for setting nut & bolts
2. Air suctioned For cleaning machine
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 3.Spanner Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts fitting
4.Socket spanner Handle system for nut & bolt fitting
5. Hammer To apply load where required
6. Screw driver To release any screw
7. Punch Used to fit any worn out shaft
14. Lock opener To open the clip of bearing
9. Hack saw To cut any metallic thing
10. Outside calipers To measure outside dia
11. Inside calipers To measure inside dia
12. Cutting pliers To cut thin wires
13. Pulley key To loosen pulleys
14. Chain ton To lift heavy load
15. Welding machine To join metallic parts
16. Grinding machine To make the smooth fabrics
17. Tester To test electric circuit
114. Pliers To grip anything & cut anything
19. Star driver Screw unlocking
20.Steel tape To measure length, width & height
21. L-key For loosen & tighten the screw

5.6 Broken Needle Handling Process

64
 Switch of the machine and inform to Supervisor
Search and collect all the broken needle parts (if all parts found)
Operator If all parts found, carry all parts to the needle controller

Inform the line mechanic about the needle breakage

Check the processing garment by hand metal detector
Supervisor If all parts found, then carry all parts to the needle controller

Take out the needle all parts from from the machine & give to operator
If all parts not found, then fill up a form abut needle parts missing with signetory by
Maintenance Maintenance, Operator and Supervisor

If all parts found, Check all of needle parts with needle mock up and issue a new
needle
If all parts not found, Check the needle parts missing form and issue a new needle
Needle Broken needle parts attach in the needle control register & record
Controller

CHAPTER-12
65
 IMPACT OF INTERNSHIP
12.1 Impact of Different section:

11.2 Impact of Store Section:

I. Understood the necessity & process of inventory

II. Learned how an order is confirmed via merchandiser
III. Realized the role of PI (Pro-forma Invoice)
IV. Had cleared the conception about fabric inspection method
V. Learned how to examine AQL in a fabric lot
VI. Learned the procedure of determining shade variation in fabric through light
cabinet
VII. Understood the system of preparing color continuity card
VIII. Learned the procedure of receiving materials & dispatching goods outside of
the factory

12.3 Impact of Sample Section:

I. Understood why sample section is called a mini-industry

II. Observed how skilled workers work in sample section
III. Learned the process of preparing a pattern for an individual size & design
IV. Cleared the conception about different types of sample required to
produce a garment
V. Learned about the digitizing board in CAD room
VI. Learned the process of determining breakdown ratio for a particular order
VII. Understood how to make marker from a pattern by software (TUKA) in
CAD room
VIII. Observed the process of printing a marker on a paper with plotter machine
in CAD room

12.4 Impact of Cutting Section:

66
 I. Learned about different type of cutting machines (i.e. Straight knife cutting
machine, Round knife cutting machine, Band knife cutting machine etc.)
II. Learned the process of fabric spreading
III. Observed the process of fabric cutting according to the marker
IV. Understood different process of fabric lay
V. Realized the use and importance of metal gloves for fabric cutting process
through different cutting machines
VI. Observed the panel check process for different type of fabric of different style
and design
VII. Understood how numbering and bundling is done
VIII. Understood the role of input man in the industry

11.5 Impact of Sewing Section:

I. Learned about different parts of a T-shirt (i.e. Upper front, Lower front, Back
part, Facing, Collar, Sleeve etc.)
II. Observed different sewing or joining process of different body parts of a shirt
III. Learned about different type of machines used in a sewing floor (i.e. Single or
double needle lock stitch machine , Multi needle chain stitch machine, Over
lock machine, Feed of the arm machine etc.)
IV. Observed the ironing and fusing process for different body parts (i.e. Collar,
Placket, Facing Interlining etc.)
V. Learned about Standard Minute Value (SMV) of different sewing process
VI. Learned the process of determining operator’s efficiency in an individual
process for a T-shirt
VII. Cleared the conception about production of a sewing floor ( line by line and
total floor)
VIII. Observed and realized the importance of final inspection at the end of every
sewing line
IX. Got experienced in making production study of an operator for an individual
process for a definite time interval
X. Also got experienced in making capacity graph of a sewing line of a definite
style and design
XI. Attended Pre-production meeting before the bulk production of an order
XII. Realized the importance of Dept. of IE in raising the efficiency of production
in a sewing floor

12.6 Impact of Finishing Section:

67
 I. Observed various type of finishing process after sewing.
II. Observed different type of machines used in finishing section (i.e.
Neck press machine, Metal detector machine etc.)
III. Learned about different type of iron machines
IV. Learned about various type of accessories used to attach to the garment
(i.e. Security alarm, Hang tag, Price tag, Barcode label etc.)
V. Observed the application of different chemicals for the removal of
various type of stain
VI. Observed and learned different type of folding process (i.e. Standard
fold, Semi-standard fold, Hanger fold, Twill fold, Half fold, Full fold
etc.)
VII. Cleared the conception about different packing type (i.e. Master pack,
Blister pack, Coffin pack etc.) and packing ratio
VIII. Understood the basic difference between gross weight and net weight

Finally realized why finishing section is unavoidable in garments industry for making the
garment attractive and decorative for selling purpose.

CHAPTER - 13
68
13.1 CONCLUSION & REFERENCES

13.2 Conclusion:
We have completed our internship report successfully by the grace of almighty Allah.

Industrial attachment provides the learning scope to enhance the curiosity of our knowledge to
entered into the practical life. Adila Apparels. It is a developing factory in the readymade
garments field of Bangladesh. The administrative, management, chain of command all are the
well organized. They are well equipped with all of the modern machineries and the working
environment is excellent. The relation between top management to bottom level is so nice &
devoted to satisfy the customer demand by their activities.

The factory runs by a number of efficient textile engineers, skilled technical & Non-technical
persons. They are very sincere, co-operative and helpful.

All the information in this report about Adila Apparels is very much objective and practical so
that one can get the desire information about the factory.

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13.3 Reference:

1. www.adilabd.com
2. karimctgbd300@gmail.com
3. karim@adilabd.com
4. Different Department(Sample, Cutting, Sewing, Finishing,
R& D,HR) of Adila Apparels Ltd.

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