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DENIM
Denim is a sturdy cotton warp-faced textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp
threads. This twill weaving produces a diagonal ribbing that distinguishes it from cotton duck. While
a denim predecessor known as dungaree has been produced in India for hundreds of years, denim
itself was first produced in the French city of Nimes under the name “serge de Nimes”.

The most common denim is indigo denim, in which the warp thread is dyed, while the weft thread
is left white. As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the textile is dominated by the
blue warp threads and the other side is dominated by the white weft threads. This causes blue
jeans to be white on the inside. The indigo dyeing process, in which the core of the warp threads
remains white, creates denim's signature fading characteristics.[ CITATION wik \l 1033 ]

TYPES OF DENIM FABRICS USED IN GARMENT PRODUCTION

RAW DENIM OR DRY DENIM

Raw denim or dry denim is not washed after being dyed during its production. So raw denim is dark,
stiff and very durable. Such type of denim color will fade over time, which many people like.

SELVEDGE DENIM
Selvage denim is a unique kind of denim. It forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. It’s
made by one continuous cross-yarn: quite an advanced process that leads to a strong, durable
piece of clothing. The selvage edge is usually stitched with colored thread: green, white, brown,
yellow, and red (red is the most common). This type of denim is more expensive as compared to
other types of denims.

ORGANIC DENIM
Organic denim is manufactured from 100% organic cotton. To make organic denim, all types of
chemical are excluded. Potato starch is used instead of chemicals.

STRETCH DENIM
Stretch denim is one of them most comfortable form of denim. It is closest to pure denim. To
manufacture stretch denim 2 to 3% spandex material are used. So it allows to move more freely
than other denim fabrics. It is widely used to make women jeans.

POLY DENIM

Poly denim looks like a dressier denim. To make casual wear poly denim is used. It is lightweight
and easy to wash and dry. It is comfortable to wear and still maintain a professional look. This fabric
is more resistant to wrinkling.
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RAMIE COTTON DENIM

Ramie denim is blended with other fabrics such as cotton, polyester and spandex. Which reduces
wrinkling and it keeps its shape. This denim has a silky luster look, which makes for perfect casual
denim dress, tops, and overalls.

COTTON SERGE DENIM

Serge denim is considered as traditional type denim. It is made with 100% cotton serge. Serge is
actually a fabric having a diagonal pattern. It is known for being sturdy and resilient.

COLORED DENIM

Colored denim is manufactured with dyed yarn either warp or weft. Now it is trend. Colored denim
is a great way to bring interest, femininity, and sunny personality to regular Jeanswear. This type of
denim can be obtained by piece dyeing process. Technically, colored denim is really twill and not
denim. "Denim" specifically refers to the indigo-and-white fabric that is traditionally used for jeans.

BUBBLEGUM DENIM

Bubble gum denim is lycra containing denim that has between 35 to 50% stretch. Bubblegum
denim is widely used to make women items like as shorts.

DENIM FROM FOX FIBER

This denim fabric manufactured by coloured cotton fiber. Developed and patented by California
cotton breeder, Salley Fox. NITRA, India has also done work on this line.

CRUSHED DENIM

Crushed denim is woven with an over twist weft yarn. This denim that looks permanently wrinkled.
The fabric then shrinks when washed. The effect can also be improved by using bleach and stone.

VINTAGE DENIM

Vintage denim is old looked denim. Normal denim is treated with stone wash or organic enzyme
cellulose wash with bleach results in torn and old looking texture over a denim.

ECRU DENIM

Denim that has not been dyed indigo. This denim contains single color yarn (mostly gray colored
yarn is used) in its weft and wrap.[ CITATION hom19 \l 1033 ]

LIST OF TOP DENIM MILLS IN INDIA


1. Jindal Worldwide Limited was established around 70’s. They are the largest manufacturer
with a production capacity of 120 million meters per annum which will be 160 million
meters/annum by 2019 and 200 million meters per annum. 
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2. Arvind Limited was established around 1931. They have a production capacity of 110 million
meters/annum. In the last two decades, the company has become the world’s third largest
manufacturer of denim. 

3. Aarvee Denims and Exports Ltd was established in 1988 by Arora & VB Groups with a
capacity of about 85million meter/annum.

4. Pratap Spintex Ltd was established in the 1970’s and has a production capacity of over 80
million meters per annum. They claim to be the only manufacturer to have a complete in-
house product chain from raw cotton ginning to final garments.

5.  Etco Denim Pvt Ltd was established in 2004 and has a capacity of around 50 million meters
per annum. The company installed and commissioned modern spinning machinery and with
intensive development and restructuring of operations, turned the company around into a
profit-making unit in a short time.

6. Raymond Denim started in 1996 with partnership from ‘Calitri’ of Italy. They have an annual
global manufacturing capacity of up to 50 million meters of denim fabric. The company from
the beginning has been strategically focused on top-quality, innovative, value-added denim
fabrics. This has made Raymond a major denim player in the sub-continent.

7. Bhaskar Industries Limited is a Vertically Integrated Denim Mill, with spinning, weaving and
finishing, under one roof, with an annual capacity of 44 million meters and started around
1998. Bhaskar Denim has a varied range of Fabric Blends, Weaves, colours, yarns and
Finishes, to suit changing requirement of different Denim users.

8. Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills Limited Founded in 1962, Suryalakshmi Cotton is a vertically


integrated business leveraging five decades of successful spinning, denim and garment
operations. They have a capacity of about 40 million meters per annum. Plant address-
Surya Towers, 6th Floor, 105 Sardar Patel Road, Secunderabad - 500 003, Telangana, India.

9.  KG Denim Limited is a premier denim and apparel fabric manufacturer, catering to leading
fashion brands and retailers worldwide and has a production capacity of 36 million meters
per annum. 

10.  Modern Denim Limited was established around 1991 and has a capacity of about 30million
meters/annum. Modern Denim offers a wide range of high quality, basic and value-added
Denim in accordance with customer’s specifications. 
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11. Mafatlal Industries Limited started around 1996 with Burlington Mills Inc., USA with a
capacity of 30million meters/annum. From Shirting, Suiting, Denims, Corduroys, School,
Corporate & Institutional Uniforms, Bed &Bath Linen and Ready-mades, each product at
Mafatlal is an amalgamation of passion and research.

12. Ginni International Ltd started around 1996 and has a production capacity of 27 million
meters/annum. Their mission is to attain industry leadership through the creation of
sustainable economic value for our customers by an unflinching focus on creativity and
quality in all our products.

13. LNJ Denim , a denim-manufacturing facility established in 2007 under RSWM Limited (the
flagship company of LNJ Bhilwara Group), has a manufacturing capacity of 25 million meters
annually. LNJ Denim has earned an excellent reputation amongst international and domestic
brands as an innovator and a quality supplier of denim fabric. [CITATION onl \l 1033 ]

DENIM VALUE CHAIN IN INDIA


Denim is primarily produced from cotton and India is the second largest producer of cotton yarn in
the world. The denim fabric production capacity of India is more than 1000 million meters per year.
45% contribution coming from Gujarat alone where Ahmedabad is the production hub.

Denim apparel production in India is a fragmented industry where only 20-30% of denim apparel is
manufactured in the organized units.

The denim apparel production activities are concentrated in Delhi/NCR, Mumbai, Bangalore and
Ahmedabad.

FLOWCHART OF DENIM MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Figure 1 Flow chart of manufacturing process


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INDIA’S DENIM MARKET


Despite a slowdown in apparel exports and domestic market growth, the denim market in India is
clocking a consistent CAGR of 15% – 18% per year. Denim is also witnessing the fastest growth rate
as an apparel fabric. The current installed capacity of almost 1,200 million meters is expected to
increase to 2,000 million meters in next three to four years owing to the huge demand for the
fabric.

While India’s share in the overall denim manufacturing capacities is around 10%, at present its
share in the global jeans trade works out to 2.5%. India, with its resource advantage of all types of
cottons and MMF fibers, and thanks to the introduction of state-of-the-art technology,
manufacturing plants, and the entry of top global brands, surely has the potential to grab a higher
share in the global market. According to industry estimates, a CAGR of 10% over the period of next
10 years for denim share in international trade is possible.

In terms of retail sales, due to the popularity of denim in India, denim wear market is expected to
grow at a CAGR of 15% in the near future. The industry’s future looks promising due to the
following factors:

 Rising disposable incomes


 Rapid growth of the retail sector
 Booming internet retailing sector
 Young population demographics (15-29 year olds) with higher spending power
 A wide range of consumer segments that consider denim as an apparel of choice owing to
its comfort and style
 Favoured preference for denim amongst youth owing to its versatile association
 Increasing usage of denim products by women and youth in smaller cities and rural
India[ CITATION htt19 \l 1033 ]

STONE WASHING
TRADITIONAL METHOD
PUMICE STONES

 Pumice Stones are used for stonewashing denim to give a faded, worn-out look to the
fabric.

 The stones are washed with the denim garments together in large washing machines.

 Pumice Stones can cause damage to washing machines through wear and tear.

 It can also be challenging for workers to remove the residue, dust and sludge that the stones
produce after washing.
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 There is a higher labor cost involved with Pumice Stones, since the stones and particles must
be physically removed from the pockets of garments after stonewashing.
NEW TECHNOLOGY
NOSTONE®

 Tonello created abrasive stainless-steel drums in collaboration with Levi Strauss & Co. The
panels can be fastened to any of Tonello’s machines. They are removable, so the machines
can still be used for normal washing/ dyeing processes.

 There are different levels of abrasion with the NoStone® technology that are determined by
the fineness of the texture on the plates.

 The time in the machine also determines the level of the stonewash effect.

 The NoStone® process reduces water consumption, production costs, emissions, waste,


processing time and manual labor.
WASHDOWNS

TRADITIONAL METHOD
BLEACH

 Bleaching is a step in denim finishing that is used to decolorize indigo. The level of
discoloration to the fabrics or garments depends on the amount of bleach used, the
temperature, and duration of the wash process.

 The most widely used chemicals used in the industry are sodium hypochlorite, calcium
hypochlorite, hydrogen peroxide, and potassium permanganate.

 Consistency can be challenging to achieve, and there may be variation in the appearance of
multiple dye lots.

 The chemicals involved with bleaching can cause corrosion to machines, weaken the fabric,
and high exposure can be harmful to workers.
NEW TECHNOLOGY
OZONE & ENZYMES

 Ozone is a powerful bleaching agent that is generated from oxygen. Ozone works quickly
and requires fewer rinses compared to other bleaching methods. At the conclusion of the
bleaching process, any remaining ozone is converted back into oxygen and water.

 Enzymes can be used as an alternative to harsh chemicals used during the bleaching
process. Enzymes known as laccases alter the indigo dye through oxidation. Only the dye
and appearance of the fabric is changed, so the fabric quality, strength and elasticity remain
unchanged.

 Enzymes can also be added in combination with the NoStone® technology, previously


mentioned, to accentuate the effect of the NoStone® process.
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WHISKER EFFECT
TRADITIONAL METHOD
POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE

 Potassium Permanganate (PP) is an oxidizing agent that is used for local bleaching/finishing
on denim.

 PP spray is used on jeans to lighten a specific area and create whisker effects on denim.

 PP spray can have harmful effects on workers by irritating and burning the skin and eyes
when workers come into direct contact with it. Without safe ventilation systems and
equipment, factory workers can be at risk for short-term and long-term health issues when
working with this chemical.
NEW TECHNOLOGY
LASER

 Another technology available to mimic the finishing effects of Potassium Permanganate is a


laser.

 Available from both Tonello and Jeanologia, the laser machine can create vintage effects,
whiskers, patterns, patches, and even intentional holes and tears in a garment.

 The laser technology uses less water, chemicals and energy to create a wide variety of
denim looks. Laser boosters can be applied to the fabric in order to intensify the effect of
the laser to mimic heavier bleaching applications.[ CITATION cot19 \l 1033 ]

END USES OR PROSPECTS OF DENIM


In modern world, the apparels made from denim have become very popular among wearing. We
know that now days, denim is used for making jacket, men’s trouser, baby wear, shirt's, ladies wear
and day by day, its acceptability is increasing among consumers. Denim goods are now being used
among almost all type of people. Now denim is so versatile. Denim wear crosses the line of fashion
boundary. In the past, it was used by workers as a safety wear. Now it is used for making decorative
cap and ladies handbag, school and college bag, and travel bag. So, range of denim apparels are
widening day by day. So Denim is used for jacket, pant, shorts, shirt, skirts, suits, hats, belts, boots
and athletic shoes, denim wine bags, denim pencil case, denim apron, denim pillows, denim quilt,
lampshades, upholstery etc. Now denim is also used to make sunglass frame.

Without common uses of denim, there are some very interesting products. You may get surprised
of versatile uses of denim.

 Denim Wedding and Other Dresses

 Denim Helmet

 Denim Sarees
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 Sunglass frame

 Denim Wedding and Other Dresses

 Denim Coat for Dogs And Pets

 Denim Toilet Seat

 Denim Underwear’s, Bikinis and Bras

 Denim Curtains

 Denim Car Seat Covers

 Denim Face Mask

 Denim Mobile Case

 Denim Insulation [ CITATION fas19 \l 1033 ]

LEARNING OUTCOMES
1. Known about the manufacturing process of denim.
2. There are so many denim manufacturing unit in India.
3. Come to know about the traditional and new washing processes used in manufacturing unit.
4. Get Knowledge about the different types of denim fabric.
5. The denim market in India is clocking a consistent CAGR of 15% – 18% per year.
6. Apart from conventional use of denim, there are so many areas where denims are used.

ABOUT CARPETS

Figure 2 Carpet

The carpet weaving had been started in


the sixteenth century within the Mughal era. At present, India is the largest producer and bourgeois
of carpet within the world in terms of volume and worth. Roughly eightieth of carpet factory-made
in India is exported to alternative countries. India is standard in the international marketplace for its
glorious styles. A number of the merchandise that is known within the European and yank market
are hand-knotted woollen carpets, tufted woollen carpets, chain sew rugs, pure silk carpets,
artificial carpets, and overhand woollen carpets. India controls the four-hundredth of export
worldwide. There's a carpet export promotion council that helps the business in terms of finding
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new markets, worldwide events participation, composing international customer-vendor meet and
resolve trade disputes. Presently Rajasthan, Kashmir, Punjab, state, state, and Himachal Pradesh
are the main states during which carpet merchandise is created. The carpet business features an
immense growth potential however there also are some issues that incorporate lack of innovation
and out-dated technology that affects the expansion sector. In 2001 Ministry of Textiles of India got
wind of the Indian Institute of carpet technology in Bhadohi, state to facilitate innovation and
technology facilities. It was established to develop human resources for the up-gradation of the
carpet business in India. It's each national and international collaboration. [ CITATION Raz15 \l 16393 ]

INDIAN CARPET INDUSTRY


Carpet weaving was introduced in the sixteenth century by Mughals in the Asian nation.
Throughout this era, they bought Persian craftsmen from their state and established them in the
Asian nations. They established varied carpet weavings centres at totally different cities that have
Agra, metropolis and city to facilitate the production of Persian titled carpets. Materials like silk and
Pashmina were used that permissible a larger variety of knots to be enclosed within the artworks.
Patterns of Indian carpets resembled miniature paintings. At first, the carpets that were made
showed the classical Persian type of fine knotting. This vogue mixed with Indian art and has become
celebrated and conjointly demand of that merchandise was adjoining the world. Carpet trade in the
Asian nation has been prospering in establishing social business models that help underprivileged
sections of society. Hand plain-woven rugs of Khairabad (Sitapur district) is another class of Indian
rugs that is common in most of the western countries. The essential weaving technique of Sitapur is
Flat weave and cotton, jute, fabric, and chenille are the most weaving material. By 2010, carpets
were out there at several worth’s and quality levels in an exceedingly vast vary which has cheap
artificial carpets to expensive hand-knotted wool rugs. Multi-colored carpets are out there in a wide
range of styles and patterns.

INDIAN CARPET MARKET

 India’s hand-crafted carpets and floor coverings are popular with overseas and domestic
buyers.
 India added an average of Rs.114 billion in exports to handmade carpet and flooring exports
since 2014.
 The handmade carpet industry employees over two million workers and artisans, majorly
women from rural India.
 India exports almost 90% of its total carpets made — bringing in about $1.8 billion in foreign
exchange everywhere.

INDIA’S TOTAL EXPORT OF HANDMADE CARPET AND FLOOR COVERINGS IN THE


LAST FIVE YEARS
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Figure 3 Indian market of carpet industry

 Total export of 2014-15: 111.2 billion


 Total export of 2015-16: 112.9 billion
 Total export of 2016-2017: 118.9 billion
 Total export of 2017-18: 110.2 billion
 Total export of 2018-19: 123.6 billion

India exports handmade carpets over 70 countries including China, USA, Germany, Canada etc.
[ CITATION Pre19 \l 16393 ]

MAJOR PLAYERS

 Shaw Industries Group


 Mohwak Industries
 Beauliea International Group
 Interface
 Milliken Floor Coverings
 The Dixie Group
 Balta Group
 Victoria Plc

MAJOR CARPET WEAVING CENTRES


Earlier, there have been solely a few carpet weavings centres. However, slowly carpet weaving
centres augmented and unfold across the Asian country. The most important carpet producing
centres square measure city, Jaipur, Srinagar, Danapur, and Bhadohi. Within the past few years,
Panipat has additionally emerged as another major centre for carpet production.
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JAIPUR - The carpet trade in Jaipur was started in the middle of the nineteenth century and at that
point, everyone was knowing carpet creating as a jail craft. These carpets were created by prisoners
at the Mughal time. Bikaner remains noted for its alleged jail carpets. Ajmer and Bikaner square
measure main centres for this craft. Jaipur was one in all the main centres of the Mughal region for
carpet weaving. The rugs that square measure created their square measure impressed by the
styles of Japanese and middle Persia.

BHADOHI – Bhadohi may be a noted carpet-weaving centre. The Bhadohi district is that the biggest
carpet-manufacturing centre in Asian countries and additionally noted for its hand-knotted carpet.
It's additionally called the ‘Carpet City’ of the Asian country. This region additionally produces
carpets of various styles and quality. With time, this trade has modernized itself by introducing the
new technologies and discarding the manual handsewn tools, that accustomed absorb a great deal
of your time and labour. [ CITATION Raz15 \l 16393 ]

DESIGN PERSPECTIVE
TYPES OF CARPETS
1. TUFTED CARPETS – Most of the carpets that square measure being made nowadays square
measure tufted carpets. It involves the method of sewing face yarns into a backing material with
the assistance of multi required machines. In these carpets, the fibers square measure secured with
an important latex coating.

2. PLAIN-WOVEN CARPETS - These carpets square measure plain-woven on huge looms and
generally they'll have cut and uncut piles and loops. Numerous vibrant yarns square measure used
for creating a range of patterns and styles on the carpets. These plain-woven carpets square
measure typically terribly pricy.

3. NON-WOVEN CARPETS - Non-woven carpets square measure made up of plastic fibres. The
fibres square measure shaped into an online by needle punching and so it's thermally warranted to
make the carpet. They're more cost-effective however these carpets don't last long. They're most
ordinarily used for brief amount usages like exhibition area sand foot-mats, etc.

4. HAND PLAIN-WOVEN CARPETS - Hand-knotted square measure plain-woven by a distinct quite a


loom and show a meticulous affair of the yarn and warp. They're referred to as kilim, soumak, jajim,
palas, etc. Hand-made carpets square measure costlier than machine created carpets. The
processes that square measure employed in creating these carpets square measure braid and hand-
knotting. Decorated carpets square measure created by connecting or fastening strips of materials
along. Hand fastening or hand-knotting square measure typically done on rugs. Spain, Portugal,
India, Pakistan, Turkey, Afghanistan, and Japan square measure the countries that square measure
renowned to provide superbly crafted hand-knotted rugs. [ CITATION Nas14 \l 16393 ]

PATTERNS
Patterns are an important part of the hand-made knotted carpet. Different patterns like flowers,
trees, and zigzag are used as a design. Each of these designs has a unique meaning.
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For example, the circle, zigzag and tree signified eternity, light and happiness. Later, Persian style
was merged with Indian design to give new look to the Indo-Islamic carpets.
 Some of the patterns which are used in carpets are given below along with their meaning -
 CYPRESS TREE: Survival in the afterlife.
 TREE OF LIFE: Eternal Life.
 CAMELS: Wealth and happiness.
 PEACOCK: The scared bird.
 DOVE: Peace and good Omen.
 CLOUD BANDS: Good Fortune.
 CROSS: Devoid of religious significance.
 WEEPING WILLOW: Death, Sorrow, Grief.
 COCK: The devil, woven into the carpet to protect the owner or user from the evil eye.
 LIONS: Victory and Glory.
 DOGS: To protect the owner or user from theft.

FIBER TYPE
The sturdiness, look and feel and value of carpet are largely depended upon the fiber that is
employed to create it. The fibers that are utilized in creating carpet are –

 NYLON - This is often the foremost well-liked fiber used for floor covering. Nylon is sturdy,
proof against tear. It's usually not a stain distasteful fiber.
 OLEFIN - This is often a perfect fiber for any out of doors floor covering used as a result of its
proof against mould and mildew however additionally this is often not comfy carpet to run
on vacant feet.
 POLYESTER - It's a more cost-effective possibility than different fibers. It's less resilient than
nylon fiber and is a lot of doubtless to indicate injury and fade.
 ACRYLIC - It provides the design and feel of the wool primarily based carpets. It's proof
against mould and mildew.
 WOOL - Wool is that the costliest fiber in the carpet market these days as a result of its sole
fiber utilized in carpet production. It feels smart against vacant feet and is extremely sturdy.
It's stained resistant however additionally fades simply in direct daylight.[ CITATION Nas14 \l
16393 ]

TECHNIQUES
The usual process done by a carpet-designer is as follows:

 First, he draws up a design


 Then he transfers it to graph paper on which each square represents a single knot
 After that, he divides the paper into various sizes
 And at last, depending on whether the pattern is intended for a part of a repeat pattern

COLORS
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In the carpet business, colors signify different meanings. The colors are all vital to the assembly of a
decent carpet. Afoul color will create the pile dry and brittle. Different colors are obtained from
various things –
 The madder color was obtained from vegetables
 Roots of madder provide the reminder red color
 Different reminder pink was obtained by intermixture the red with grey color
 The blue color was obtained from the leaves of the bush
 All reminder inexperienced color were obtained from grass
 The brown color was made of the leaves of kikar tree
 The yellow color was obtained from the stigma of the cultivated Crocus sativus that ar wide
big in Kashmir
 And the light-yellow color was made of turmeric

Every color has a different meaning. Some of the colors with their meaning are –

 WHITE: – The color of mourning, death, and grief. It is also a symbol of peace and purity.
 BLACK: – Revolt, Destruction
 RED: – Joy, Happiness, Wealth
 YELLOW: – Imperial Colour
 ORANGE: – Devotion and Faithfulness
 GOLD: – Power and Wealth
 BROWN: – Fertility and Agricultural abundance
 LIGHT BLUE: – Power and Symbolic of Heaven
 DARK BLUE: - Colour of morning[ CITATION Nas14 \l 16393 ]

MACHINERY AND HAND TOOLS


The type of machinery & instrumentality utilized in the assembly method square measure
handlooms, broad looms, coloring machine, and finishing machine.

Different types of hand tools that square measure used –

 Knife for cutting the yarn whereas attachment the knots


 A comb-like tool for packing down the knots of woof whereas weaving
 A combine of shears for trimming the yarn
 Tufting machine used for the method of carpet creating

VARIETIES OF INDIAN CARPETS


There is a unit of numerous varieties of Indian carpets. Today, carpets in the Asian countries area
unit woven by hand or incorrect loom. Silk carpets and Asian countries in wool carpets area unit the
foremost in style carpets in India. Cotton, Jute, Bamboo and Grass area unit some materials that
area unit want to create these engaging Indian floor coverings.
Starting from history their area unit numerous kinds of carpets in India-
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 MUGHAL VARIETY OF CARPETS - These carpets area unit thought-about to be the oldest in
Asian countries. Over the seventeenth century, the native artists slowly replaced the
artisans of Persia. These artists work consistent with the style of Indian folks. The Mughal
variety of carpet was largely influenced by the fervour of Akbar's son Jahangir whose
selection of floras’ has left a crucial impact on carpet planning.
 ANTIQUE VARIETY OF CARPETS - These carpets area unit dear. The planning of those
carpets area units influenced by the history of the Asian countries.
 FLORAL RUGS OR FLORAL CARPETS - They are the foremost common form of Indian carpets.
They’re largely attributed to urban centre.
 PORTUGUESE CARPETS - They are quite kind of like the Persian carpets. These carpets area
units attributed to Northern or Southern Persia or the Portuguese colony in the state.
[ CITATION Nas14 \l 16393 ]
The carpets in India are classified according to the various areas of the country as-
 WESTERN CARPETS - Asian country Carpets of Western India area unit distinguished from
the central and northern India. The carpets from the Rajasthan area unit documented for its
fine quality hand-knotted woollen fibers. Jaipur, Ajmer & Bikaner area unit the most centres
of this craft in Rajasthan. The standard styles embrace Dushala, Charkona, Mehrab and
Shikhar patterns. Durries could be a special sort of carpet that is factory-made in Rajasthan.
 NORTHERN CARPETS - The North Asian countries' handicrafts consist of the states of
Haryana, Punjab, HP, J & K, and Chandigarh. Hand-knotted pure silk carpets of Jammu and
Kashmir are world far-famed for his or her softness. Panipat is additionally famed for its
carpet trade and it’s famed for its loom merchandise, together with Durries, Carpets, and
Mats. It's additionally called "CITY OF WEAVERS''. Panipat has additionally attained a pride
of place within the international market.
 CARPETS OF UP & HARYANA - These carpets are significantly famous across the world for
their distinctive colors and styles. Employment in UP constitutes virtually ninetieth of the
carpet weaves. Bhadohi, Mirzapur, urban centre & Panipat area unit the foremost carpet
hubs. The specialty is their distinctive ‘'Sculpture Design'' that uses clippings of the thread
around the helm and provides it a three-D structure.

HAND-MADE CARPETS V/S MACHINE-MADE CARPETS


It is troublesome to form out the distinction between a machine created and a home-made carpet.
However, if folks recognize the key points associate degree have an inspective eye then they will
differentiate between these them.
More clarity on the variations will be explained in terms of –
 Knots
 Sides and Ends
 Back of the carpets
 Materials
 Touch
 Manufacturing method

KNOTS
Machine-made rugs and carpets don't seem to be woven by hand. These are loomed by a
computer-generated system. There aren't any knots in machine-made floor covers as a result of in a
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 15

very hand-made rug, every knot is hand-knotted and tied. In machine-made carpets, threads are
affixed or whorled onto hot latex backing that cools and hardens. They show a whole and rigid
uniformity in manufacture that transforms into a static style.

SIDES AND ENDS

In a hand-made carpet, the fringe is 'part' of the rug. The fringe is not sewn on as an extension.
Machine-made rugs always have 'surged' sides or machine stitching on both sides of the rug.

BACK
In machine-made carpets, the sewing on the rear is extremely consistent. They need extraordinarily
regular knots and even structure remains identical all told components of the carpet. On the
opposite hand, in hand-knotted rugs, the sewing varies slightly because of completely different
tensions on the wool as individuals' hand-tie the knots.

MATERIALS
Acrylics and other chemically processed materials are used to make machine-made carpets and in
Hand-knotted carpets, pure organic wools are used.
PARTS OF CARPET

SYMMETRICAL KNOT
The symmetrical knot is additionally called the Turkish knot. Within the symmetrical knot, the yarn
is placed in an exceeding loop. Between each row of knots, a filling is in one or several rows. The
symmetrical knot provides a stronger consistency to the carpet and is commonly used for thicker
carpets.

PERSIAN KNOT
The asymmetrical knot is additionally referred to as the Persian knot. Within the unsymmetrical
knot, the yarn is placed during a loop around her one crooked thread and remains to unwind
intoxicated folks crooked thread. Between all ages row of knots, the pick is placed in one or
enhanced rows. The asymmetrical knot decides its potential to oscine bird a carpet with on top of
knot density and enhanced details. This trial knot is employed within the Persian workshops in ink.

TIBETAN KNOT
The Tibetan Buddhism knot tends fully various factors structure than the opposite knots. This trial
knot is created by employing an improvisation rod as well as the dimension of the carpet, which lets
you are placed ahead of the crooked. The future yarn is then placed around her twenty years
crooked threads then round the rod. Once they weaverbird completes everything row of knots then
he alters reduce the loops around the rod to make the knot.

JUFTI KNOT

A Jufti knot means the knot is placed yet again deception, rather than take twenty years, crooked
threads. The thread is placed in one or enhanced rows. The carpets are tending to be less sturdy
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 16

and how extent can do generally look unwind and joke. It’s all cheaper in a price war. The knot
could be each side symmetrical and asymmetrical.[ CITATION cep17 \l 16393 ]
CUSTOMIZED CARPET
Nowadays people can also place an order for customized carpet. They can give design to the
company and the carpet can be made as it is instructed.

Some of the companies that make customize carpet are –

 Ramsha
 The Weaver
 Knots India
 Yak Carpet

CHANGES IN STYLE
In the old days, the carpets were made with camel color backgrounds but these days many other
patterns are being used. New technologies, various varieties, customized designs, different types of
fabrics and many others have been introduced at present in the carpet industry. In the old days,
carpets were only being used by Mughals but slowly the trend changed and everybody started
using it. In the old days only, history and antique related designs were used for making carpets but
nowadays various patterns are being used.

CONSUMER PREFERENCE AND FUTURE PROSPECTS

With the bereavement over and over, shoppers’ preferences make merry became terms of costs,
style and a couple of physiques. Nowadays, shoppers choose to plant disease carpets that are
supposed to the garment and a couple of reasons. There's a top-quality calling into question finest
plastic flower carpets the half within the garrison cap selling which incorporates a disregarded the
business to manoeuvre towards fashionable and trendy carpets which aren't quick access to take
care of and a couple of reasons. Indian handmade carpets are something battling it began in and
out with any luck machine-made carpets any further developed countries. Opportunities for this
stuff rug beater business lay another way developing originality federal agency and a couple of
analysis. Also, employing environment-friendly handling another way of producing carpets and a
couple of rugs also will strengthen another choice chance that cannot be enticing shoppers.
[ CITATION Raz15 \l 16393 ]
In value, terms, carpet demand is expected to increase 4.1% in 2021. The development of new
hard-surface flooring products (such as luxury vinyl tile, or LVT) has led to greater market
competition, and carpet sales have sagged as a result. Carpets share in North America fell from 57%
in 2011 to 52% in 2016. India will be the fastest growing country for carpets and rugs through 2021,
leaving the Asia/Pacific region to see the most rapid gains. [ CITATION Fre17 \l 16393 ]

LEARNING OUTCOMES
 Come to know about Indian carpet industry.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 17

 There are many major players in carpet industry.


 Learnt about major carpet weaving centres.
 India exports almost 90% of its total carpets made — bringing about $1.8 billion in foreign
exchange everywhere.
 India exports handmade carpets over 70 countries including China, USA, Germany, Canada
etc.
 Indian carpet exports are highest in 2018-19 as compared to last five years.
 Come to know about different types of carpet, their patterns, fibres which are used in
making.
 Learnt about techniques and machineries which are used to make carpets.
 Also learnt about hand tools and customized carpets.
 Learnt about the future prospect of the carpet industry.

INDIAN FOOTWEAR INUSTRY


India is on the verge of a retail boom fuelled by fast evolving lifestyles and behavioural changes
towards shopping. With changing retail landscape and advancing styles, Indian footwear industry is
set for a phenomenal growth in future. Indian market is brand driven and organised players
dominate the sales.

 Revenue in the Footwear market amounts to US$7,525m in 2019. The market is expected to
grow annually by 12.6% (CAGR 2019-2023).
 The market's largest segment is the segment Leather Footwear with a market volume of
US$4,745m in 2019.
 In global comparison, most revenue is generated in the United States (US$91,187m in 2019).
 In relation to total population figures, per person revenues of US$5.51 are generated in
2019.

FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY- THE NEW AGE CAREER


Job creation is arguably one of the most important parameters to judge how successful a
government has been in envisaging and implementing its economic policies. The micro, small and
medium enterprises sector is one of the major employment generators in several sectors while
footwear segment is no exception employing nearly 1.3 million people.
Since footwear always has and continues to play an important role in complementing any fashion
trend that comes by, whether it is professional, semi-formal or routine, hence the biggest
advantage that a career in the footwear industry comes with is that of being non-seasonal and
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 18

always evolving. Footwear industry offers a variety of bright career options as footwear designer,
Product Developers, Footwear Technologists, Marketing Executives, Quality Controllers,
Merchandisers, Planning Executives, and Trend Analysts etc. Most significantly, the footwear sector
has also been instrumental in developing a spirit of entrepreneurship in the country, living unto the
time-tested adage of poverty alleviation through self-sufficiency. Those having a knack of creativity
and forte for innovation have hit fortunes in the sector by introducing their own shoe lines under
registered labels.
CHANGING DYNAMICS
Leather footwear export sector is facing headwinds due to a challenging internal and external
environment. Though e-commerce is booming, yet it is difficult to sell footwear via the internet as
people still want to get a sense of the fit and feel of a pair shoes before making the final purchase.
Time has come to develop the linkages between the large and export oriented units with the micro
manufacturing units. Obviously, it can be inferred that M/o MSME is striving hard for the upheaval
of footwear sector. Yet, what is of noteworthy importance is to change the mindset of the youth
who must realise that entrepreneurship besides being the sustainable way forward for the
economy is also a significant means of self employment.
MILESTONES ACHIEVED/ FOOTWEAR TOWERING HEIGHTS
• India is the second largest global producer of footwear after China, accounting for 13% of global
footwear production of 16 billion pairs.
• India produces 2 billion pairs of different categories of footwear constituting almost equal
percentage of leather and non leather footwear.
• India is the third largest Footwear consuming country after China and USA with consumption of
nearly 1.66 pairs while average global consumption is 3.0 pairs.
• There are nearly 15000 units engaged in manufacturing footwear in India with total turnover
estimated at Rs. 50,000 crore including Rs 32,000 Crores for Domestic market and Rs 18,000 Crores
for exports.
ABOUT THE BRAND

Figure 4 Logo of Lakhani


NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 19

Lakhani Armaan Group is a name that has marked it presence across the Indian and global
geographies and acquired a prominent position as a reputed business establishment.

The group came into existence in the year 1966 with Lakhani Rubber Works, an automotive
components manufacturing company established by Mr K C Lakhani. It was his vision that soon
translated into the success of this company followed by the expansion of the group’s business
activities into footwear manufacturing.

After eight years of its establishment, the group entered into manufacturing of beach slippers and
soon it also started producing canvas shoes and sports shoes. There was no looking back since then
and the group in the present day holds a prominent position in the footwear as well as automotive
industry.

This multifarious group has setup manufacturing facilities at Haryana with a total land area of about
220000 sq. mtrs. With more than 8000 employees across the units, Lakhani Armaan Group is
constantly growing towards a brighter, better and prosperous future. Lakhani Footwear Pvt. Ltd. is
a renowned name in shoe manufacturing with a wide array of offerings under various brands and
categories.

Lakhani Footwear Pvt. Ltd. is the largest producer of Sports Shoes, Beach Slippers, PU Injected
Sports Shoes, PVC Injected Sports Shoes with a total capacity of 55.5 million pairs per year. Lakhani
Footwear has setup state-of-the-art plants in Faridabad (Haryana), Dhar(MP), Haridwar
(Uttaranchal) and Noida (Uttar Pradesh) to produce Sports Shoes, Leather Shoes, Canvas Shoes and
EVA Slippers.

The group has also formed a tie-up with Adidas and has been manufacturing sports shoes for this
leading brand since the last 21 years.

The company continues to offer latest, trendy and stylish shoes to its customers by adopting
innovative designs and ensuring comfort in every way. The contribution that the company has
made in taking the footwear market to the next level is remarkable and the success story continues
as Lakhani Footwear Pvt. Ltd. evolves with every passing milestone. Lakhani, with a production of
10.5 million pairs, claims to enjoy a market share of 36% in the leather footwear segment and 22 %
in the non-leather sole segment. The Lakhani group is one of the largest suppliers of rubber
components to automobile manufacturers like Maruti, TELCO, Escorts, Sona Steering, DCM
Daewoo, etc. The group is the largest manufacturer of beach slippers and the second-largest
manufacturer of canvas shoes in India. It exports goods to UK, Sweden, Italy, France, Germany,
Ireland and Western Australia

GROUP COMPANIES
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 20

Lakhani Armaan Group has widespread operations. The company manufactures a wide range of
products under various brands and at different manufacturing locations. The group manufactures
footwear for ladies, men and children. It also manufactures automotive rubber components.

The company’s under the group are:

● Lakhani Footwear Pvt. Ltd.

● Lakhani Rubber Products Pvt Ltd.

● Lakhani Shoes & Apparels Pvt. Ltd.

● Mascot Footcare

● Lakhani Rubber Works

● Lakhani Sales Corporation

● Lakhani Armaan Shoes Pvt. Ltd.

● Lakhani Charitable Trust

MISSION
To give the best quality products at the most affordable prices. The name of Lakhani Armaan is
synonymous with quality.

VISION
To be a brand leader and translate our 50 years of experience into success and achieve customer
satisfaction in both the footwear market and the auto component market.

INFRASTRUCTURE
Lakhani Footwear has setup state-of-the-art plants in Faridabad (Haryana), Dhar (MP), Haridwar
(Uttaranchal) and Noida (Uttar Pradesh) where the company manufactures Sports Shoes, Leather
Shoes, Canvas Shoes and EVA Slippers. These manufacturing units are well equipped with modern
machines and skilled labor to ensure quality and performance of all products manufactured at the
premises.

SUB-BRANDS
i. Force 10
ii. Coolers
iii. Foot Fun
iv. Fortune
v. Gliders
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 21

vi. Senorita
vii. Geo sport
viii. Liberty warrior
ix. Windsor
x. Tip top

NETWORK
Lakhani Footwear has a wide presence across India through its distribution network of over 350
whole sellers and retailers. The company is one of the largest entities in footwear manufacturing
and is looking forwards to expanding at a large scale in the coming years.

PRODUCT LINE
i. Sport shoes
ii. Hawai
iii. Sandals
iv. Canvas shoes
v. Slippers
vi. Jogging shoes
vii. Sneakers
viii. Running shoes
ix. Product range
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 22

Figure 5 Total distributors

TECHNOLOGY
It has introduced a new material called TPU (Thermo Plastic Urethane), for high quality footwear,
into the country. This material has better properties than PVC or TPR (conventional materials used
for footwear). Lakhani has also been instrumental in introducing EVA (Ethyl Vinyl Acetate), which is
a direct injection molding used for making sole for the first time in Asia. This technology uses very
light material & the footwear is made with the direct injection system. Lakhani also pioneered the
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 23

PU (Poly Urethane) Technology in India for the footwear industry. Besides these Thermo Plastic
Elastomer has been developed for the first time in India at Lakhani. The Sympatex waterproof
technology in footwear was pioneered by also Lakhani. Lakhani is also the first company to market
PPE products for safety purpose.

Footwear Technology is evolving at an amazing speed. Better and updated technology is the key to
the quality and enhanced productivity. Lakhani Armaan Group blends premium material and
advanced technology to produce footwear of international standards. The group has pioneered in
latest footwear technologies like PU, EVA etc.

PROCESS FLOW CHART

Figure 6 Flow chart of Lakhani

MANUFACTURING EXCELLENCE
They call them Humantech Centers. When people visit us they see them as centers of Excellence for
manufacturing shoes where technology works in perfect tandem with human creativity. Lakhani has
Humantech centers at four locations in India, the latest being the Uttaranchal project which was
launched recently to boost the production of world-class footwear.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 24

The locations of the four are Humantech Centers:

GHARAUNDA, HARYANA

Gharaunda is the first plant of its kind in this part of Asia that is equipped with Desma machines for
PU Direct Injection Moulding. Using PUF technology and Computer Aided Systems this vertically
integrated plant produces Industrial Safety Shoes that are made to European standards. Sympatex
TEX booties as well as ordinary booties are also made here. Beside these Gharaunda has a design
center where an ambitious team of young designers working in tandem with experienced
technologists.

LAKHANI PURAM, HARYANA

About 14 km from Karnal this Humantech center, spread across 50 acres of landscaped greens, has
16 lines for Cement Last Construction footwear, 15 lines for Direct Injection Mounded footwear and
3 lines for EVA Direct Injection footwear. It is a manufacturing base for slippers and sandals that put
the Chinese sheet slippers to shade, teenager's shoes with very light PVC soles as well as leather
soles, shoes for both sexes as well as booties for ladies.

KARNAL, HARYANA

Lakhani’s first manufacturing center caters essentially to the domestic market and produces
Cement Last Construction as well as leather sole footwear for both men and women.

DEHRADUN, UTTARANCHAL

This new Humantech center makes Cement Last Construction footwear as well as the comfort
range of sandals for ladies. It will soon also produce sports shoes for the likes of Reebok and Nike as
well as for the domestic market.

TARGET MARKET
The premium segment does not offer volumes. The market up there is very small and there are too
many players in fray. Therefore, in order to grow by gaining in volumes, we have moved towards
catering to the middle and upper-middle class segments, which offer a far higher off-take of
footwear. Our advertising and promotion strategy over the years has consistently aimed at
positioning Lakhani as a complete family footwear brand. Initially, we focused on the upper class
segment as our core target market. Later on, we shifted our attention towards the middle and
upper-middle class segment also.

POSITIONING
Till few months back, the customers perceived Lakhani as a comfortable, durable and great value
for money brand. We are trying to enhance that perception by positioning Lakhani as a more
vibrant and contemporary brand too. The new 31 positioning does not mean that we are moving
away from the comfort, durability and value planks. Those will always be there associated with
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 25

Lakhani. So Lakhani as an umbrella brand has become more fashionable in tune with the changed
market needs now.

CHANNELS
They sell through 350 exclusive Lakhani showrooms and more than 4000 multi brand stores spread
all over India.

PROMOTION
The marketing division takes aggressive promotional exercise throughout the year. Special
marketing communication mix are devised for special occasions like Diwali, Eid, Christmas etc.
company promotes its products by adding value to the lifestyle and a part of the ambitions. It aims
at satisfying consumer’s esteem and self-actualization needs so that consumer can relate
themselves with the company. However, for promotion of its product, the main instrument of the
company is its “SHOWROOM POLICY”. This policy aims at reaching more and more customers
through Lakhani showroom. [ CITATION Lak15 \l 1033 ]

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT


Footwear is no longer just a functional necessity, but rather, something that is flaunted as a fashion
statement.

A good shoe should have both, Comfort and Style and it should adjust to your feet with every step.
To survive this test of time, it is always necessary to keep abreast with the changing market trends
and to innovate new and fresh ones. Therefore, Research and Development is a key area of
operations at Lakhani Armaan. Latest trends and technological innovations are researched
extensively in the process of creating new products and designs.

JOURNEY & AHEAD


The group aspires to become the most preferred name in the three business areas it operates in;
and at the same time it aspires to expand its horizon to newer avenues. The group aims at
sustaining the consistent growth and performance of all the companies under its umbrella and to
serve its customers, shareholders and employees in a better way with every passing milestone.

The future looks promising and bright for this illustrious entity that encompasses various brands
and products that have acquired prominence in various industries across the nation and beyond

LEARNING OUTCOMES

 Revenue in the Footwear market amounts to US$7,525m in 2019. The market is expected to
grow annually by 12.6% (CAGR 2019-2023).
 The market's largest segment is the segment Leather Footwear with a market volume of
US$4,745m in 2019.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 26

 In global comparison, most revenue is generated in the United States (US$91,187m in 2019).
 In relation to total population figures, per person revenues of US$5.51 are generated in
2019

BACKGROUND OF MORADABAD CLUSTER


The genesis of brassware production in Republic of India may be copied back to the Moghuls from
Persia within the seventeenth century who settled in city. Indian brass handicraft is recognized
globally. The articles embody brass art ware, furniture, brass figurines, and giftware, ornamental
and different collectible things. Moradabad is home to 1 of the oldest brassware clusters in
Republic of India and is additionally referred to as 'Peetal Nagri', that means Brass town. The cluster
has AN annual turnover of Rs three, 500 large integers of that exports stand at some Rs a pair of,
700 large integers that successively is some two hundredth of the overall handicraft exports from
Republic of India. Consistent with native trade estimates, there are one, 200 registered exporters
WHO source work orders to little scale producing units WHO, in turn, use the artisans. In some
instances, the exporters work directly with the artisans. The amount of exporters has gone up to
one, 200 from 850, a one hundred and fiftieth increase from earlier. Of those solely 4-5 exporters
have AN annual turnover of Rs twenty large integer or a lot of. The cluster consists of one, 800 little
scale producing units, domestically referred to as karkhanedars, and 25,000 unregistered social unit
units. In 2008-09, these units along utilized three, 60,000 people. According native trade exporters,
the amount has currently return right down to around one, 80,000 artisans. A UNIDO report
indicates that in 2001Moradabad exported Rs 4000-crore value of brassware. In 2006, the exports
born to Rs 3000 crore. Thanks to numerous challenges mentioned in later sections, presently solely
Rs a pair of, 200-crore value of varied metal alloy product are being exported, of that brassware
constitutes Rs 800 large integer.

METAL WARE PRODUCTS


The range of brass products from Moradabad include idols for worship, flower vases and planters,
surahis (round pots), tableware (plates, bowls, boxes etc.), ash trays, diyas, candle stands,
instruments, locks and fittings, hookahs, antique jewelry, furniture and trophies made by skilled
artisans.

INDUSTRIAL SCENARIO OF MORADABAD


S.no Head Unit Particulars
1 Registered industrial unit No. 9087
2 Total industrial unit No. 20100
3 Registered medium & large unit No. 10
4 Estimated avg. No. Of daily worker employed in small No. 1100001
scale industries
5 Employment in large and medium industries No. 2061
6 No. Of industrial area No. -
7 Turnover of small scale industry In lacks Na
8 Turnover of medium & large scale industries In lacks Na
[ CITATION dcm \l 1033 ]
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 27

CASE STUDY ON MR. IKRAM HUSSAIN

Figure 7 Mr. Ikram Hussain

This case study is mainly about an artist Ikram Hussain who born in a poor family in Moradabad. He
was very much curious for metal art so he decided to make it as a profession for his livelihood. He
worked under his father Haji Abdul Hamid who was an artisan of brass metal engraving. He learnt
everything from his father and after his father demise he handled the entire work. He visited and
provided engraving training six times in abroad and received award from state government in year
2003-2005 for his skillful work in metal engraving and in year 2004-2005 he got affiliation for his
work and also got training between the proud 6th June to 16thjune,2006 by development
commission of Ministry of Textile, New Delhi. Government of India provided certificate in finishing
work in year 2018 and also awarded by Dr. Bhim Rao Ambedkar in 2010. He gave training to many
organization like 6 month engraving training in organization Guru siksha parampara, engraving
training to 50 students of IIT Kanpur in 2008, engraving training to 75 artisan of khagra project in
West Bengal in 2010, engraving training to 10 artisans in Kaushal Vikash training camp in 2014,
provided technical designing training to 30 artisan in a camp, metal craft engraving training to
students of NIFT in year 2018 and still providing training in Upendra maharathi shilp anusandhan
from the year 2017. He was awarded many times for his achievement like- awarded by Ram
Manohar Lohiya in Lucknow, received appreciation certificate in Agra summit in 2013 and also
appreciated by the people of other countries for his work, awarded by National award in Vigyan
Bhawan, Delhi for his efficient skills in year 2015, appreciated by the Chief minister of Bihar and
awarded by the Governor for his dedicated work in metal craft. He even proved his talent in abroad
by sending 22 inch Jar to U.S.A President Barak Obama and in place of that U.S.A president
appreciated his work very much. He also presented a brass plate in which image of the former
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 28

Prime Minister Manmohan singh was engraved to the C.M. His dream is to make his country proud
in whole world and to gain recognition of his metal craft. He is facing lots of problems related to
infrastructure, Government policy, Bank loan, Education problems etc.

PROBLEMS FACED BY METAL CRAFT OF MORADABAD


There are number of problems that Artisans of Moradabad are facing in today’s highly developed
world of technology and resources. In this world where we can connect to anyone from anywhere
within a seconds with the help of the internet and social media platform but our rural artisans were
still unaware of these sources which will help them in the expansion of their business and also in
the growth of the artisans.

ARTISAN

 Income: Income level is one of the most important and considerable problems of rural
artisans. They had a very less income. Their per day wage is only Rs 500 which only meet
their basic demand due to which they are unable to educate their children in a proper way.
Most of the artisans over there are still below the poverty line. They could not even
purchase a good quality of products and unable to support their family financially, which is
not helping them in individual growth and also the growth of their art. If the artisans want
to take loan at a low interest rate by banks then it takes 5-6 months at least. So, for
borrowing capital money they have to go to creditor who charges high interest rate.
 Small artisans don’t have GST number due to which they are unable to sell their product
online.

MACHINERY

Most of the machinery and equipment that they were using has become old and obsolete tools,
machinery and equipment should be upgraded as it caused a drastic effect upon the quality and
quantity of their product. There is no such metal testing lab near their workshop. This problem
landed up on the increased transportation cost. They melt near 500 kg at a time. Only 35% people
are into this craft. The artisans of the metal craft make wax model before casting. But the quality of
wax is not up to the mark. This end up in the improper finishing of their products at the same time
it is very time taking.

MANUFACTURING PROCESS

• SAFETY ISSUES: When the labors were beating the utensils and giving finishing to the product,
they were not wearing any kind of tool or gloves for their safety in toes. That can lead to any kind of
Infection and also the consumption of time is high. They might get hurt in the process. While
carving delicate designs on the products the small particles goes into their eyes which are painful
and very harmful at the same time.

• TEMPERATURE: The heat of the furnaces was too high for the labors. It might harm the skin of
labors. Labors used to do continuous work for several hours.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 29

• PRODUCTION EFFICIENCY: Since they do all their work manually, it is time taking and also the
chance of occurrence of errors is increased. This also affects the efficiency of production per day
and the efficiency of labors. If it would not have the case then the efficiency could be doubled.
There is a law for artisans in which they are provided raw material comparatively at a low rate. The
wealthy exporter mislead government by claiming that these artisans comes under their
supervisions and they purchase the raw material at low price and again sold it to the artisans at
high rate. They are not benefited by the government schemes.

• AIR QUALITY: At the Polishing stage, small particles of metal were in the air which can be harmful
to the artisans. Also at the time of casting and making globular water containers, a large amount of
sand is used. These dust particles can go inside the human body through breathing.

• TIME CONSUMPTION: The places of different operations are different; it was not all under one
roof and this cause the wastage of time. Also, a helper is needed to receive and deliver the goods
from one place to others which include a cost. The quality of the sand is not good enough due to
which there are small visible holes in the casted products which they have to repair through
welding. It kills time of the artisans.

MARKETING

 LACK OF TECHNOLOGY: Due to lack of technology, catering wide segment of the market is
tough. There is very less knowledge about the internet due to which very few customers are
targeted.
 DIGITAL MARKETING: They are not active in social media platforms which lacks in their
business growth .In the era of Facebook and Twitter, from where people get aware,
Moradabad metal cluster is not using any source of social media marketing to cater to their
audience.
 RETAIL CHANNEL: A single channel of retail has been used for ages. Products are sold with
the medium of Brick and Mortar stores. A variety of products can’t be showcased with one
channel only.
 One Owner: Only one person is involved in each and every process, starting from
manufacturing to delivering which leads to negligible marketing of products. They don’t
have the direct platform to connect with the mass. So, they supply their products to the
museum, Khadi mall & Upendar Maharathi.

SUGGESTIONS FOR NEW MARKET


MANUFACTURING PROCESS

The safety equipments should reach them directly without any difficulty. Gloves should be provided
to manufacturers while working in front of furnaces. Heat may cause burn the skin. They also have
to carry the long rod which helps in placing the brass sheets in the furnace. Masks must be given to
provide precautions from the harmful environment in the industry. Mask will help them in clear
breathing when they work near the sand. First Aid Kit should be present in the factory. As they
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 30

work manually and also in front of furnaces so at least the first aid kit is highly recommended. The
first aid kit will help the labours to get treated for small wounds and later they can go to the
hospitals for further treatment. An instant Medicare is needed.

Proper ventilation must be provided. Furnaces fill the environment with dirt and smoke. If that air
is not released instantly then it can go in the human body through breathing and can harm the
lungs. Usually, workers work for 8 hours a day and continuously breathing that air may harm them.

Latest technologies in machines is highly suggested. This is how Moradabad enhancing the beauty
of their utensils. Also a roller machine is need when they hit the wok with the hammer in order to
create design in the utensil.

DESIGNING

NEW PRODUCT RANGE: Currently, the variety of Product range is very less. The products which are
made here are very old in terms of design as well as product specifications. Metal lifestyle products
can be produced because the area of manufacturing is sufficient with regards to human resources
present there. The artisans require workshops where they can get guidance for the variety of
product range. Now the products are sold on the basis of per kilograms, but in the case of Metal
Lifestyle products, the prices can be set according to the design. Metal lifestyle products such as
Wall Clocks, Pen Stands, Paperweights, etc. This will lead to future growth in their Business.

INTRICACY OF DESIGN: The other potential is to enhance their existing products with the intricacy
of design patterns. The designs which they are providing on the utensils are comparatively low in
aesthetic appeal. The utensils coming from different locations are competition for Moradabad only
because of their aesthetic appearance in the products. Beautiful motifs can be engraved on the
utensils to enhance the appeal. Patterns of Birds, flowers, paisleys can be impactful for them.
Government should take care of the raw material which could be provided directly to the artisans.
The raw material should be provided by the government should of good quality. Government
should ensure that the time interval of transaction of loan should be as minimum as within a
month. In this way the production process will not be delayed.

Government should ensure that the time interval of transaction of loan should be as minimum as
within a month. In this way the production process will not be delayed.

ONLINE PROMOTION

The artisans should be active on social media. This helps them in growing at a fast rate and to reach
directly to the mass customer. We as a team will promote their products on social media platforms
like Facebook, whatsApp, Instagram and YouTube. In YouTube we can show the manufacturing
process of the metal ware products. In this way customer can see the entire process and the hard
work behind its making.

At present marketing of their products is done by others hence they earn more profit
comparatively.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY 31

At present they don’t get proper display of their products in Khadi Mall in Patna. He should convey
his words to the mall authority so that they can take action on this.

LEARNING OUTCOMES

 Learnt about Moradabad cluster and metal ware products.


 Come to know about the industrial scenario of Moradabad and about the artisan Mr. Ikram
Hussain.
 Learnt about the problems faced by metal craft cluster of Moradabad.
 Understood the artisan problems and provided fruitful suggestions for the new market.
 Found the gap in marketing techniques.
 Prepared a case study on the artist Mr. Ikram Hussain.

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