In the
W 100%
Issue number 391 CONTENTS
16
News
6 Panel of expert judges reconvenes
for 6th annual JNA Awards
8 Forevermark crosses 2,000 retail
shops globally
10 Boucheron unveils high jewellery
collection
Next issue
Desired for their lively green hues,
tsavorite and peridot are favoured by
designers for adding brilliance and
pops of colour to their collections.
JNA talks to industry insiders about
the demand prospects for these
gemstones.
* All figures in this publication are in US
dollars unless otherwise stated.
4 ︱March 2017
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March 2017 issue
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53
Pearls
48 Pearl traders cite significant buyer
turnout at HK auctions
50 Sarah Ho enchants with latest pearl
jewellery line
36
52 Designers celebrate beauty of
Tahitian pearls
Gemstones
53 Traders cite steady demand for
Menchén Tomàs’ 2017
Fall/Winter Collection
JNA Style File tourmaline in 2017
12 Mystery, beauty and luxury 55 Tanzanite: 50 years of captivating
14 Dynamic silhouette brilliance
16 Bold cuts, vibrant hues 58 Sapphire rush in Bemainty
Greater China Diamonds
18 Lukfook trains sights on middle-class 62 GJEPC continues to strengthen
market in mainland China consumer confidence in natural
diamond sector
Xifu International Gold Wedding 64 Captivating fancy colour diamonds
Jewellery Design Competition 2017 65 De Beers counts on US demand to
22 Renowned judges set standards for fuel growth in 2017
Xifu jewellery design competition 66 Dominion reports strong production
in Ekati
Jewellery
24 Lightweight gold jewellery shining
brightly in India
27 HK jewellers display design and
manufacturing expertise
Conversations
30 Iconic jeweller to grow international
presence
Design
34 Designer captivates with culture-
inspired pieces
36 Creative talents unleashed at
JMA International Jewelry Design
Competition
Technology
40 Jewellery cleaning expert further
strengthens market position
On the Cover
41 Innovative safety deposit box for Sicis Jewels once again impresses
jewellery with this Damisa Gold necklace, which
42 Sarine unveils latest mobile app drew inspiration from Damisa, the
for traders leopard from Tanzania. Its sinuous body
is in white gold and covered with a
Trade Fairs mantle of characteristic spots in Micro
43 Istanbul Fair to welcome thousands Mosaic, diamonds and sapphires. An
of international buyers Imperial topaz dangles from one of its
34 44 Upbeat mood prevails at Signature
IIJS Mumbai
paws. To know more about Sicis Jewels’
latest masterpieces, turn to page 10.
 Asia’s Leading
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NEWS

Panel of expert judges reconvenes for 6th annual

JNA Awards
T
he annual JNA Awards celebrates its sixth year
with a stellar panel of judges consisting of five
distinguished experts from the jewellery and
gemstone industry.
Organised by JNA, the JNA Awards recognises
and honours companies and individuals that have
demonstrated excellence, innovation and outstanding
business performance to shape the growth and
development of Asia’s jewellery industry.
An independent panel of industry leaders representing
key sectors of the jewellery trade is carefully selected to
ensure that the judging process is independent, robust,
transparent and intellectually rigorous.
The judges for JNA Awards 2017 are:
• Albert Cheng, advisor to the World Gold Council and
former managing director, Far East (WGC)  
• James Courage, former chief executive of Platinum
Guild International (PGI) and former chairman of the
Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) From top left, clockwise: Albert Cheng, advisor to the World Gold
Council, Far East (WGC); James Courage, former chief executive
• Lin Qiang, president and managing director of the
of Platinum Guild International (PGI); Lin Qiang, president and
Shanghai Diamond Exchange (SDE)
managing director of the Shanghai Diamond Exchange (SDE);
• Nirupa Bhatt, managing director of the Gemological Yasukazu Suwa, chairman of Suwa & Son, Inc in Japan; and Nirupa
Institute of America (GIA) in India and the Middle East Bhatt, managing director of Gemological Institute of America
• Yasukazu Suwa, chairman of Suwa & Son, Inc (GIA) India and the Middle East
Letitia Chow, founder of JNA, director of Business
Development – Jewellery Group at UBM Asia, and of investment and engagement by our industry in
chair of the JNA Awards Judging Panel, remarked, developing employees, improving environmental
“The judging panel is an integral part of making the considerations, raising standards and making
JNA Awards an authoritative, fair and successful event. technical advancements, which are all well-covered
These individuals have been chosen not only for their by the focus of the JNA awards.” Courage is currently
expertise in the jewellery and gemstone industry, a consultant to the jewellery industry, having recently
but also for their dedication and contribution to the retired from his roles as chairman of the RJC and
advancement of the sector.” chief executive of PGI.
“Although we saw a seven-year low for jewellery “It’s my honour and pleasure to serve as a judge
demand in 2016, we have witnessed the resiliency and contribute to the JNA Awards for the sixth
of the jewellery sector – thanks to the gradual consecutive year. In the past five years, I’ve witnessed
corporatization of family-owned companies, and the marked progress in terms of the quality of participants,
adoption of state-of-the-art management know-how the attention it has attracted, and the positive influence
and IT application by enterprise owners and their it has wielded in the industry as a whole. I believe that
teams to their manufacturing, retailing and marketing the JNA Awards will continue to surprise, delight and
processes. We encourage these forward thinkers impress me in new ways,” added Qiang.
and innovators to share their best business practices Bhatt, meanwhile, said, “Year after year, the
through the JNA Awards,” added Cheng. JNA Awards has grown in stature and become
Courage commented, “It has been a privilege synonymous with recognising excellence in the
and a responsibility to have been involved in the jewellery and gemstone industry. This platform
judging of the JNA Awards for the last five years
since its inception. I have observed increased levels continued on page 8

6 ︱March 2017
NEWS

Forevermark
crosses 2,000 retail shops globally

F
orevermark, the diamond
jewellery brand from The De
Beers Group of Companies,
is now available in 2,000 retail
doors globally, following the
opening of the Zen Diamond
Anatolium store in Bursa, Turkey.
The milestone consolidates
Forevermark’s position as one of
the world’s fastest-growing diamond
brands, according to the company.
Forevermark was launched in
2008 with the promise of diamonds
that are rare, beautiful and
responsibly sourced. Since then it
has grown significantly and is now
available in 25 markets worldwide.
De Beers continues to invest
substantially in the Forevermark
brand, with $85 million spent on
Forevermark’s consumer-facing
marketing activities in 2016 to
help stimulate global demand for
diamond jewellery.
The opening of the 2,000th
Forevermark retail door follows a
strong 2016 for the brand, which
saw a 14 percent increase in door
numbers; the expansion into three
new markets – Hungary, South
Korea and Thailand; and a 21
percent year-on-year increase in
inscription numbers.
even more consumers around the
world.”
Emil Güzeli, chairman of Zen
Diamonds, said: “We are delighted
to have opened Forevermark’s
Diamond ring from the Forevermark Setting 2,000th global retail door, having
Collection. Photo credit: Forevermark established our exclusive licensee
partnership for the Turkish market
Stephen Lussier, CEO of back in 2014 and now having 54
Forevermark, commented, Forevermark doors in the country.
“Opening our 2,000th global retail It’s a young but very popular brand
door around eight years after and offers real opportunity to
launching the brand is an amazing engage consumers with diamonds
achievement. We will continue to in different ways. The product
invest significantly in the brand to message is very strong and our
support its fast growth. customers are responding very well
“In 2017, we will inscribe to the jewellery designs as well as
our two millionth Forevermark the diamonds themselves.” JNA
diamond, highlighting just how
strong demand
is for diamond
jewellery that’s not
only beautiful and
individual, but also
responsibly sourced.
Meanwhile, we will
also expand further
through our licensee
model in Western
Europe and Asia
in 2017, meaning
that the Forevermark
promise will reach A set of diamond jewellery by Forevermark

Panel of expert...from page 6 JNA Awards 2017 is supported by Headline

encourages businesses to share their best practices
that contribute towards accelerating the pace of
innovation in the industry. It has been my honour to be
associated with the JNA Awards since 2013.”
Suwa added, “I am grateful to share the same
passion and commitment with my fellow judges in
promoting best business practices in the jewellery and
gemstone industry. We hope that this year’s awards
will continue to see more qualified entries and first-time
entrants joining our community.”
Partners Rio Tinto Diamonds and Chow Tai Fook
(CTF), together with Shanghai Diamond Exchange
(SDE), Guangdong Gems & Jade Exchange, and
Guangdong Land Holdings Limited (GDLAND) as
Honoured Partners.
A complete description of the award categories,
as well as a detailed explanation of the judging criteria
and entry rules, may be reviewed after registering
online. Entry submission will start in early March and
the deadline for the submission of nominations is on
May 5, 2017. JNA

8 ︱March 2017
NEWS
Boucheron
unveils high jewellery collection
B
oucheron’s latest high
jewellery collection, 26
Vendôme, pays homage
to the renowned jewellery house’s
creative heritage. The collection
presents three major themes –
Nature Triomphante, Architecture
Inspirée and Porté Couture.
The extraordinary jewellery
pieces were designed by Claire
Choisne’s Studio de Création.
Nature Triomphante
According to Boucheron, this
theme is an ode to the jeweller’s
beloved nature, which is “generous
yet untamed.” The lily, a legendary
flower symbolising power, majesty
and opulence, takes centre stage in
this design theme. Another dominant
feature in Nature Triomphante is the
peacock feather, which figures a lot
in Boucheron’s iconic designs.
“It is dynamic, in motion and
almost alive in all its variations,” the
jeweller said.
A diamond-set white gold
necklace under this theme is also
a reinterpretation of the question
S
icis Jewels recently launched
two stunning necklaces –
Damisa Gold and Butterfly
Waterfall.
The Damisa Gold necklace was
inspired by Damisa, the leopard from
Tanzania. The centrepiece is in white
gold and covered with a mantle of
characteristic spots in Micro Mosaic,
diamonds and sapphires. An Imperial
topaz dangles from one of its paws.
The tail becomes a necklace, entirely
covered with diamonds, and yellow
and orange sapphires. The Micro
and Nano Mosaic tesserae, which
10 ︱March 2017
mark design that Boucheron first
launched in 1889.
Architecture Inspirée
Boucheron said it has always
been an ardent admirer of abstraction,
whether in geometrical perfection or
the pure lines of Art Deco.
The maison’s first address, 152
Galerie de Valois, is central to the
family history as the place where
Frédéric and Gabrielle Boucheron
started their business in 1858.
A highlight of the Architecture
Inspirée theme is an exceptional
necklace that evokes both the
atmosphere and the scenic view
in Galerie de Valois, thanks to its
various windows.
Porté Couture
A tribute to haute couture, this
design theme celebrates Frédéric’s
childhood, which was infused with
memories of all kinds of fabric and
materials.
With the “Mantle of Light”
gold and diamond accessory,
Boucheron said its designers
characterise
all the jewels
from the
maison, give
the leopard coat
a tactile effect.
Another exceptional
piece is the Butterfly
Waterfall necklace.
Made in 18-karat white
gold and set with
diamonds, the wings
are decorated with
Micro Mosaic in shades
of green. Every detail
Diamond and
coloured gemstone
ring from the 26
Vendôme Collection
pushed back the boundaries that
separate jewellery from clothing.
“It was entirely created
on a dressmaker’s dummy to
ensure perfect fit, drape and
suppleness, and its elements
are interconnected by a woven
mesh of golden thread. From the
chiselled cut of the overall piece to
the delicacy of its twisted chains
inset with diamonds, this Mantle
of Light stretches the limits of
jewellery-making further than ever,”
added Boucheron. “A mantle
of light, a ripple of diamonds, a
graphic ribbon made of emeralds
and rubies – an array of pieces to
wear like precious garments.”
Porté Couture melds the realms
of haute couture and high jewellery
and fuses them into one-of-a-kind
creations. JNA
Butterfly Waterfall
necklace by Sicis Jewels
becomes precious, with
the butterfly’s antennas
embellished with diamonds.
Braided strands of agate
form a long necklace.
Sicis Jewels is known for
restoring the splendour and
magnificence of the micro-
mosaic art that was almost lost
through the ages. In its laboratory,
the atelier has studied and
revisited this particular art for more
than 20 years. JNA
JNA STYLE FILE

D
esigner Ion Fiz is marking the 15th anniversary of
his fashion house with an inspired collection that
is utterly distinct, opulent and glamorous. There
is a seductive quality to the collection, which comes in
a powerful colour palette of rose, ash, gold and red.
Reflecting the luminosity of Fiz’s designs are these
exceptional collections by some of the world’s major
jewellery brands.

12 ︱March 2017
 JNA STYLE FILE

1. Chrysanthemum brooch by luxury jeweller Alessio Boschi

2. ‘Architectural Cluster’ ring by premium jeweller Garrard
3 . Diamond and pearl tassel earrings from Garrard’s Bow
Pearl Collection
4 . Monkey-motif watch from Damiani’s Animalia Collection. This
delightful monkey may be detached from the bracelet and worn as
a pendant or a brooch. The pendant is in white gold, with diamonds
set at various levels based on a technique, which is now part of
Damiani’s DNA. The monkey holds onto very light chains but it can
have a dual use and, alternatively, for a more original version, it can
be worn with a brown polished stingray necklace while a wonderful
emerald cabochon hangs from the other hand. The cuff bracelet
watch is galuchat skin and the precious monkey reclines on the
bracelet embracing the watch case. The monkey is in white and
yellow gold with white, brown and multi-colour fancy diamonds while
the bracelet is in green polished galuchat. The watch case and dial
are enriched by tsavorites for a ton-sur-ton effect with the bracelet
5 . Coral reef-inspired tanzanite earrings by luxury jeweller
Alessio Boschi
6. Earrings from UTOPIA’s Bolero Collection. From left: Tahitian pearl
earring in black rhodium gold, white South Sea pearl earring in black
rhodium gold, Tahitian pearl earring in rose gold and white South
Sea pearl earring in rose gold. According to the high-end jeweller,
the Bolero Collection was inspired by the jasmine blossom
Photo credit: Runway photos from Ion Fiz’s 2017 Fall/Winter
Collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid by
Getty Images (Image.net)

︱March 2017
13
JNA STYLE FILE

Dynamic
silhouette
D
esigner Maya Hansen stunned with her
“Körsettecture” Collection, which she described
as a dialogue between the shapes of the
body, the fabrics and the linear elements that generate
movements or the sensation of movement. For her
collection, Hansen used neoprene knit, poly skins
of different elasticity, padding with a grill effect,
elastic tulles, plumetis and metal-like accents.
The garments featured details such as bias
cuts, ribbons, elastic drawstrings, maxi zips
in polished metal and golden pullers. Black,
beige and lead grey, with a touch of light pink,
dominate the collection’s colour palette.
A perfect foil to the collection’s fitted and
dynamic silhouette are these chic creations by
leading jewellery houses.

14 ︱March 2017
 JNA STYLE FILE

1 & 2. Enchanté ring and earrings by high-end jeweller

Chantecler Capri
3. Luminescence necklace with a golden South Sea
pearl and diamonds by luxury jeweller Jewelmer
Joaillerie. According to the golden South Sea
pearl specialist, the Luminescence Collection
evokes moonlight dancing on the sea
4. Armillas Moon Collection by Chimento. This
striking set reinterprets the successful Armillas
Collection. Using the moon design element
already present in many Chimento styles, the
collection combines geometric faceted shapes with
eye-catching volumes that create a light effect –
further drawing the eye to the lustre of 18-karat gold.
Rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces are available in
yellow, white and rose gold with or without diamonds
5. Black bangle with diamonds from Damiani’s
Metropolitan Dream by Nakata. Sporty and elegant,
this collection was the result of a collaboration
between Damiani and Hidetoshi Nakata, model,
trendsetter and former player in the Japanese
national football team. In addition to the black
bangle, the collection also includes a bangle in
pink gold with diamonds and four bracelets
Photo credit: Runway photos from Maya Hansen’s
2017 Fall/Winter Collection at Mercedes-Benz
Fashion Week Madrid by Getty Images (Image.net)

︱March 2017
15
JNA STYLE FILE

Bold cuts,
vibrant hues
B
arcelona-based fashion brand
Menchén Tomàs impressed
with its fashion-meets-art
collection, which was unveiled at the
65th edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Week. Designed by Olga Menchén,
the collection was a visual feast –
starting with ensembles in black and
white, followed by pieces in grey and
silver, and eventually exploding into a
burst of vivid colours from ochres and
blues mixed with greens to pinks and
burgundies.
Complementing Menchén Tomàs’
elegant creations are these fine
jewellery collections by Damiani,
Brumani, de Grisogono Geneve and
Carla Amorim.

16 ︱March 2017
 JNA STYLE FILE

1. Baoba Bubbles rings by Brumani. The top of each ring features a sphere
of coloured gemstones in different sizes and colours
2. Allegra pendant in 18-karat rose gold set with orange and yellow
sapphires by de Grisogono Geneve
3. Earrings in 18-karat rose gold with diamonds from Carla Amorim’s
Forest Collection
4. ‘Emozioni’ necklace by Damiani. The necklace is set with marquise and
brilliant-cut diamonds. The central diamond is surrounded by a stream of
brilliant-cut stones in graduating sizes – from small to large. The setting
takes on the shapes of leaves and petals. The necklace comes with
matching cuff earrings, pendants and contrarié rings to name a few
Photo credit: Runway photos from Menchén Tomàs’ 2017 Fall/Winter Collection
at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid by Getty Images (Image.net)

︱March 2017
17
GREATER CHINA

Lukfook
trains sights on middle-class
market in mainland China

H
ong Kong jewellery retailer Luk Fook Holdings (International) Ltd
is renowned for its jewellery pieces that celebrate the significant
moments in people’s lives such as weddings and birthdays.
In recent years, the retailer has stepped up its strategy to increase
its popularity among middle-class consumers in mainland China. In
an interview with JNA, Nancy Wong, executive director of Luk Fook
Holdings (International) Ltd, shares how the company has adjusted
its products, services, marketing and online sales to win over this
promising market segment.

Tailored approach
To cater to the strong demand for wedding
jewellery in mainland China, Lukfook expanded the
2 diversity of its designs and enhanced its service
offerings for customers, according to Wong.
“In our retail stores, we always make
sure that we have a full range of sizes
of wedding rings in stock, and we
offer free engraving services,”
Wong said. “We even have
gowns in different colours
in our stores so that our
customers can see how the
jewellery looks like when worn
with these.”
Apart from improving its products and
services, Lukfook also took concrete steps to
raise its profile on the mainland. These include
participating in wedding expos, sponsoring
travel websites and establishing cross-sectoral
collaborations with companies targeting the
same customer base, Wong noted.

18 ︱March 2017

4 Marathon Races in Beijing, Wuhan, Shanghai and Hong
When it comes to marketing, the jeweller has
become increasingly adept at using social media
platforms such as WeChat, and other channels to
launch campaigns. “WeChat, with its tremendous
number of users in mainland China, has provided
us with a very interactive and flexible channel for our
marketing campaigns,” Wong said.
But since consumer habits and preferences vary in
different cities or provinces, Lukfook also resorts to many
other marketing channels in the country, she noted.
“You need to know where and how to use each
of these channels so as to maximise the marketing
impact. For instance, we once organised an event
in Shanghai where fans could meet our brand
ambassador, Raymond Lam. The event did not only
enjoy robust on-site attendance, it also drew a live-
feed audience of more than 400,000 viewers. It was a
great success,” Wong said.
Lukfook also commissioned renowned bloggers in
mainland China to publish articles about its products
1. Lukfook’s retail store
2. Lukfook’s Hugging Family pendants and bracelet
3. Nancy Wong, executive director of Luk Fook Holdings
(International) Ltd
4. Luk Fook Holdings (International) Ltd Executive Director
Nancy Wong and Hong Kong actor and singer Raymond
Lam at the launch of Love Forever’s new collection
5. Lukfook’s Rilakkuma™ bracelet and red packet with a
gold coin
6. In 2016, Lukfook sponsored the gold medal for the
Internal Marathon Races held in Beijing, Wuhan, Shanghai
and Hong Kong
GREATER CHINA
or disseminate promotion
information. “When the
followers of these bloggers
share or forward the articles, they are
boosting Lukfook’s popularity at the same time,” 5
she continued.
Market preferences
Middle-class consumers in mainland
China have a strong liking for gem-set
jewellery, which accounts for a significant
portion of the company’s sales. Lukfook
thus spares no effort in catering to the
demands of this lucrative customer base.
“We noticed that mainland China’s
middle class cares about quality of life and
are fond of travel and sports. We therefore
began to link our brand image to sporting initiatives
such as sponsoring the gold medals for several Internal
Kong and providing engraving services,” Wong said.
Lukfook also capitalised on mainland China’s two-
child policy and presented parent-child product lines to
attract middle-class families. In 2014, Lukfook launched
the gold jewellery collection, “Hugging Family,” which
celebrates the happiness of family life, and the colourful
Rilakkuma™ Collection embellished with various coloured
gemstones and enamel. The retailer also improved its
family-oriented services such as providing picture books
and educational video clips for children in its retail stores
to keep them entertained while their parents are
buying jewellery.
Online platform
E-commerce has become a pivotal
element in developing retail business on the
mainland. Lukfook currently has a presence on
more than 10 popular e-commerce platforms
in China. In the last two years, its online sales
have doubled annually.
“From this year onwards, we
are targeting annual growth of
more than 50 percent in online
sales,” Wong noted.
Fast-moving products on the
e-commerce platform are gold
jewellery pieces priced below
RMB1,000 (around $145) each, 6
she added. Looking ahead,
Wong said Lukfook is planning
to further enhance its product
portfolio and divert online
interest to jewellery pieces with
higher price points. JNA
︱March 2017
19
 Renowned judges set
standards for
Xifu
jewellery design competition
The Xifu International Gold Wedding Jewellery Design Competition 2017, which kicked off
this January, is accepting entries from March 1 to May 31. The Grand Prize includes a 1kg
gold bar. The competition, co-organised by JNA & CJNA of UBM Asia, the World Gold
Council and the People’s Government of Yantian District, Shenzhen, is aimed at encouraging
creativity in wedding jewellery design. In an interview with JNA, the judges, comprising
renowned professionals from the jewellery, arts and design sectors, share their thoughts on
jewellery design and reveal their expectations from the participants.

Norman Cherry
Professor Norman Cherry, who chairs the judging panel, said that a jewellery
art work is made unique by its special structure, shape, colour and materials, as
well as the emotions, stories and meanings that it represents.
Cherry believes that the competition, with its high professional standards,
can raise the profile and acceptance of gold wedding jewellery around the
world. Aside from drawing participation from different countries and regions, it
would also increase the popularity of gold wedding jewellery in the international
market and yield new inspiration and design concepts for the gold wedding
jewellery industry.
Cherry was the former Pro Vice Chancellor for Arts at the University of
Lincoln and former head of the renowned Birmingham School of Jewellery.
He has been a creator, educator and curator since 2014. He currently represents international clients in
collaborating with universities in China and other countries, and provides consulting services to jewellery
manufacturers on how to nurture young designers. He has also curated several successful international
contemporary jewellery exhibitions.
Cherry’s advice to the contestants is to be original and daring while remaining true to their nature and
emotions. According to him, good designers always ask themselves two questions: “Why?” and “What if?”
Designers should always be very clear about their objectives and brave enough to keep trying to achieve
these, he explained.

Ben Mori
According to modern artist Ben Mori, possessing a unique and outstanding
gold wedding jewellery piece for one’s nuptials would be extremely memorable
to newlyweds. As one of the judges in the Xifu competition, Mori said he
couldn’t wait to be impressed by the contestants’ innovative designs.
Mori graduated from Keio Jr. High and the Rhode Island School of Design,
majoring in Graphic Design. He is the founder of fashion brands “Ben Mori”
and “White Raven,” and conducts exhibits of his artworks in Japan. He has
expertise in various fields of art such as 2D and 3D drawing, liberal arts and
graphic design.

22 ︱March 2017
Paola De Luca
To Paola De Luca, gold stands for purity and, hence, symbolises the
lifelong commitment of marriage. She remarked that Chinese consumers are
now avid followers of fashion and beauty, noting that the younger generation of
consumers is particularly appreciative of the design and the story behind a piece
of jewellery.
De Luca said the much-improved quality of life in China has led to higher
and different expectations among younger consumers when it comes to gold
wedding jewellery. The cross-cultural influences the competition would generate
are likely to stimulate the gold wedding jewellery industry and provide the market
with new and modern design ideas for this product category.
De Luca is not only the founder and creative director of the Futurist Ltd in
Italy, but is also a renowned luxury trend forecaster with particular expertise on global jewellery design trends.
She runs design projects and educational programmes for buyers and government organisations, and
conducts seminars on global jewellery design trends at international trade fairs. She also collaborates on
design projects with leading companies in the industry such as Rio Tinto Diamonds. In 2012, she co-founded
TRENDVISION Jewellery & Forecasting in partnership with Italy’s VicenzaOro Fair. De Luca’s trend books are
much sought-after resources on jewellery design.

Tang Xuxiang
Professor Tang Xuxiang from Tsinghua University in Beijing noted that
Chinese consumers increasingly place a premium on culture, art and tradition
in jewellery. The biggest challenge of this competition is thus to meet younger
consumers’ expectations of gold wedding jewellery. As a judge in the Xifu
competition, he is looking forward to seeing new ideas in design.
A professor, doctoral advisor and the director of the Jewelry Studio of
the Academy of Arts and Design at Tsinghua University, Tang adheres to the
philosophy of learning from tradition and adapting to contemporary times. He is
an expert on traditional Chinese metalcraft, modern art and design, and delivers
lectures on modern metal jewellery design at Tsinghua University.
A talented designer himself, Tang has participated in a number of
international exhibitions. Several of his pieces have won awards, including his entry “Coffee Ware” that garnered
the silver medal at the 10th National Fine Arts Exhibition.

Stephen Webster
Celebrated jewellery designer Stephen Webster, also a judge in the Xifu
competition, values the concept of “Oneness” in jewellery art pieces. To him,
a touching piece of jewellery is the combination and synergy of spirit and
physical form.
The award-winning designer has served on the judging panels of many
competitions. He described the Xifu contest as an important milestone for the
innovation of gold wedding jewellery.
Webster’s jewellery brand infused Rock ‘n Roll influences into fine jewellery,
shaking up the jewellery establishment with its fresh, bold and modern designs.
It soon acquired a celebrity clientele including the likes of Madonna. Webster
curates Rock Vault, an initiative of the British Fashion Council to mentor, support,
showcase and promote the innovative, fine jewellery talents from Britain.

Information provided by the Xifu International Gold Wedding Jewellery Design Competition Organising Committee.
For more information, visit www.xifudesigncompetition.com/en.

︱March 2017
23
JEWELLERY: INDIA

Lightweight gold jewellery

shining brightly in
By Marie Feliciano
India
S
ustained demand for lightweight gold jewellery is powering
growth in activity in one of the most important sectors in the
Indian economy.
At the 10th edition of Signature IIJS (India International Jewellery
Show) in Mumbai, Indian jewellers specialising in the design and
manufacture of bangles, chains and bridal jewellery said sales levels
remain high despite prevailing cautious undertones in the market and
the impact of demonetisation in the country.
In separate interviews with JNA, jewellers explained how creative
merchandising and marketing programmes, innovative designs and
cutting-edge technologies have given them more muscle in today’s
competitive marketplace.

Itan Jewels
Established only four years ago, Itan Jewels
has carved out a niche for itself in the gold bangle
business, producing lightweight pieces either in
plain gold or embellished with diamonds, coloured
gemstones and pearls.
According to company director Yuvraj Pahuja, Itan
Jewels – “Itan” is the Sioux word for “chief” – lives up
to its name. The company has rapidly made inroads
into important gold jewellery markets such as India,
the Middle East and North Africa by combining fine
craftsmanship and the latest gold jewellery manufacturing
technologies to produce bangles that transcend
traditions and trends. Although the bangle expert is only
four years old, the people behind it have more than four
Yuvraj Pahuja,
decades of experience in the jewellery industry. director of Itan
Lightweight gold “Our strength undoubtedly lies in the creation of Jewels
ring by Itan Jewels unique gold bangles spanning a wide variety of ornate
styles, designs and gem-stone settings that
adorn the wrists of women around the world.
Additionally, we add sparkle to our customers’
wardrobe through couture jewellery that are
created in affiliation with our sister companies.
We take pride in the fact that our collections
stand out due to our commitment to
excellence and attention to detail, making them
true objects of desire,” the company said.
Pahuja said the family-owned business
operates four factories, each of which
produces different kinds of jewellery. “This
enables us to cater to every need and every
style. Our focus is on high-quality innovative

24 ︱March 2017

designs,” he said, adding that one of the group’s
bigger facilities is in Dubai.
“Being a younger operation, we have been able
to capture a lot of new technologies. The older
companies are not as innovative. We’ve taken a lot
of new technologies and new concepts, and we’ve
brought those to India and to our new factory in Dubai.
Our growth has been exponential in the last four years
but obviously, there’s a lot of hard work and team
effort behind it,” said Pahuja.
Employing more than 500 people, Itan Jewels
has caught the fancy of women everywhere with
its lightweight bangles, ring-to-wrist bracelets, rings
and opulent suites in traditional yellow gold or gold
in different colour combinations. The company has
perfected gold finishes that give its bangles and rings
a luxurious feel to them, giving them texture and the
effect that the metal’s surface is set with sparkling
diamonds. At Signature IIJS, Itan Jewels presented a
collar-shaped bangle with an elongated segment that
reaches the back of one’s hand. The metal’s surface
appears to be set with diamonds, thanks to its superb
finish, and embellished with pear-shaped diamonds.
“What we can visualise as far as design is
concerned, we can deliver,” Pahuja said. “With the
amount of work that we put into each piece, I’d say
we are offering the best price in the market today.”
Currently, the company produces more than 10,000
bangles each month, and its facilities have the capacity
to ramp up production when
required.
Veer Jewels
Jaswant Mehta of Veer
Jewels is just as bullish about his
company’s business prospects in
2017, thanks to India’s love affair
with gold. The gold ornament
manufacturer prides itself on its
extensive range of wrist jewellery,
which Mehta said is culled
from the company’s
collection of more than
2,000 designs.
“We produce exciting
collections every six
months,” he said. “The
2,000 designs that I
mentioned earlier are
Jaswant Mehta of Veer
Jewels and handcrafted
22-karat gold bangles by
Veer Jewels
JEWELLERY: INDIA
just for our bangles. We have different sets of designs for
other product categories. The fact that we can deliver a
wide range of fresh designs endears us to customers, and
this gives them a compelling reason to come back and do
repeat business with us.”
The market for lightweight gold jewellery remains
robust. Mehta said consumers love the voluminous, bold
look of Veer Jewels’ 22-karat bangles, which are pegged
at affordable prices since they contain less gold.
“The market wants lightweight gold jewellery. We
produce bangles containing 10, 16, 32 and 35 grams
of gold, which means we have a product that fits
virtually every budget. To top it off, every piece of bangle
that we sell is handmade,” he said.
Swarn Shilp Chains
One of India’s biggest gold
chain manufacturers, Swarn Shilp
Chains Pvt Ltd counts on quality to
achieve its growth ambitions. The
company has thousands of chain
designs in its arsenal, which meet
the preferences and budgets of
practically every market segment,
said Arvind Ranawat, chairman and
managing director of Swarn Shilp.
“Business had been very, very
good for us in 2016 and I expect
more of the same this year,” Ranawat
Arvind Ranawat,
said. “We put customer
chairman and
service and product quality
managing director
above all else, and since
of Swarn Shilp
we have been investing Chains Pvt Ltd
heavily in technology,
design and craftsmanship, the latter is
something that we deliver consistently.”
Every week, Swarn Shilp receives orders
from buyers, he continued.
“People come to us for all their gold
chain needs. We have a team that constantly
produces new designs, and our clients
– consisting mostly of wholesalers –
love this about us. The market is very
competitive, which means you have to
have something new to offer the market
each time to acquire new clients and
keep your existing customers happy,”
Ranawat said.
The gold chain maker is raring to
open its Hong Kong office, he added.
“We are exploring new business
opportunities,” said the company chief.
“Quality gold chains will always be in
demand.”
︱March 2017
25
JEWELLERY: INDIA

armlets, earrings
(jhumka) and bangles
to name a few.
“These pieces
are essential at
weddings,” said
company owner
Rajesh Agarwal.
“The gold belts, for
example, are worn
in South India. The
Mehul Gandhi of Astmangal designs are inspired
and gold bracelets and by traditional motifs, and are made of
chains by Astmangal 22-karat gold. In terms of gold weight,
they could be anywhere from 150
Astmangal, Rajshree grams to 250 grams of gold.”
Jewellers and V. K. V. K. Jewels has found its niche in
Jewels India’s affordable luxury market. The
One of India’s manufacturer produces handcrafted
established producers of 18-karat gold collections embellished
handmade gold chains with cubic zirconia and simulants.
and bangles, Astmangal “It is cubic zirconia set in 18-karat
impressed buyers at the gold,” company
show with its extensive executive
collection of plain gold and Shenki Jain
diamond-studded pieces. said. “What makes us distinct
“The fact that our jewellery is that each item you are seeing
collections are handcrafted gives us an edge in the here is made by hand. These
market,” said company executive Mehul Gandhi. pieces are more affordable
“Today, we are the largest but they are just as
manufacturer of handmade refined and as striking
gold chains and bangles in as collections set with
Gujarat, and we have 300 diamonds and coloured
artisans who work on our gemstones.”
collections to give them that V. K. Jewels’
brilliant finish.” latest collections
The company produces combine traditional and
collections in plain gold contemporary sensibilities.
and fine items studded with Most of the pieces are
diamonds. three-dimensional, such
Rajshree Jewellers has as its cuff bracelets set Shenki Jain of V. K.
found success in India’s with stones wrapped in Jewels
bridal jewellery market. thin gold
The manufacturer, wires and embellished with
which has been mother-of-pearl shells.
in business for 80 “Currently, we are expanding
years, specialises our reach in India. We are
in the production of focused on Gujarat, Karnataka,
opulent multi-layered Jaipur and other major areas,”
necklaces, belts, said Jain. “What’s so great about
our collections is that they appeal
Rajesh Agarwal of Rajshree to women everywhere. Our pieces
Jewellers and gold armlet are also meant to be enjoyed and
by Rajshree Jewellers can be worn on all occasions.” JNA

26 ︱March 2017
 JEWELLERY: HONG KONG

HKdisplay
jewellers
design and
manufacturing expertise

H
ong Kong-based jewellery manufacturers
are flexing their design and manufacturing
muscles anew with fine jewellery
collections that appeal to a diverse international
clientele, cementing the city’s status as a major
jewellery hub.
The companies, banking on improved market
demand in 2017, presented an eclectic selection of
diamond and coloured gemstone jewellery at the Hong
Kong International Jewellery Show.
Here’s a look into these jewellers’ latest collections in
contemporary and classic designs.

Noble Jewelry Ltd

Fine jewellery manufacturer Noble Jewelry
Ltd’s latest product offerings focused on coloured
gemstone jewellery, accentuated with top-quality
diamonds. The centrepieces of the collections
were tanzanite and aquamarine jewellery in a
mixture of traditional and modern designs.
According to the company, constant
innovation keeps it ahead of the competition.
In 2016, Noble Jewelry introduced a new B2B
procurement platform, which allows buyers to purchase and complete
transactions with a “one-click ordering” scheme.
“Combined with our efficient customer service, the buying
experience becomes easier and more effective,” the company said.
Established in 1983, Noble Jewelry, which also has offices in New
York and London, prides itself on its efficient business model that
combines the best elements of research and development, sales
and marketing initiatives, and technological advancement to
provide value-added customer service.
It obtained ISO certifications on quality management and
environmental management systems from 1999 to 2000,
further solidifying the company’s commitment to quality service
and excellence.

Top: Necklace, earrings and ring in 18-karat white gold

adorned with rubies and diamonds. Left: Ring in 18-karat
white gold embellished with a 1.6-carat oval-shaped
morganite centre stone and diamonds; ring in
18-karat white gold accented with a 3.97-carat oval-
shaped aquamarine centre gem and diamonds.
All jewellery pieces by Noble Jewelry Ltd

︱March 2017
27
JEWELLERY: HONG KONG
Over the years, it has also collected a number of
industry design awards in Hong Kong and overseas.
The company counts North and South America, the
Middle East and Japan as its largest markets. It is also
developing potential markets in Russia and Australia.
“Leveraging on its years of experience in
adopting the ODM (Original Design Manufacturing)
and OBM (Original Brand Manufacturing) models,
and other competitive advantages, Noble Jewelry
is also building its expertise in the OSM (Original
Strategy Management) business model to provide
a management mix and value-added supply-chain
services to customers,” noted the company.
ABBA Jewellery (Mfg) Ltd
ABBA Jewellery (Mfg) Ltd upgraded its fine
jewellery portfolio with edgier products in 18-karat gold
and titanium.
Its latest collection features gemstone-embellished
pieces in classic and contemporary designs that are
competitively priced, according to the jeweller.
“Our new jewellery collection is bursting with
colour, which makes the pieces all the more attractive.
It is also set in a combination of 18-karat gold and
titanium,” noted ABBA Jewellery.
The company said it is aiming to build stronger
business ties with clients from the US, Europe and
the Middle East by constantly enriching its product
selections.
ABBA Jewellery has been in the
business of manufacturing
fine jewellery in 18-karat gold
for more than 25 years. The
manufacturer specialises in
diamond jewellery and other
pieces adorned with sapphires,
rubies and tourmalines.
It operates a production facility
in China, where it employs over
Top: Blue topaz ring
with diamonds by
ABBA Jewellery
(Mfg) Ltd.
Left: Ring
adorned with
tourmalines
and diamonds
by ABBA Jewellery
(Mfg) Ltd
28 ︱March 2017
200 people and produces more than a thousand
pieces of jewellery per month. The manufacturer
maintains a team of more than 20 designers in China.
At present, ABBA Jewellery’s main market is still
the US, which comprises 60 percent to 70 percent of
its business, followed by Europe, Australia, the Middle
East and Asia, specifically China.
Dynasty Jewelry Ltd
Counting on the
global jewellery market’s
incessant appetite for
coloured gemstones,
Dynasty Jewelry Ltd of
Hong Kong recently unveiled
a collection of ruby, sapphire and
emerald jewellery with diamond
embellishments.
According to the
company, each coloured
gemstone used in the
collection brings to mind Diamond ring with a
famous cultural traditions and sapphire centre stone
life’s most significant moments. by Dynasty Jewelry Ltd
For instance, an emerald
and diamond ring in 18-karat gold is a reference to
everlasting providence while a two-stone ring adorned
with a ruby and a sapphire embodies genuine love,
with blue symbolising truth and red signifying love.
Founded in 1995, Dynasty Jewelry enjoyed
tremendous success in the US, Japanese and
European markets in its first 10 years of operations.
After a lucrative stint in its traditional markets,
Dynasty turned its attention towards Eastern
Europe and the Middle East, and more recently
to China, citing favourable business prospects.
Dynasty Jewelry specialises in fine jewellery in
14- and 18-karat gold set with diamonds, emeralds,
rubies, sapphires, opals, black pearls and South Sea
pearls. The company also implemented a new design
concept of mixing and matching various gemstones to
achieve a more modern and fashionable look.
In a previous interview, Shelly Wong, director of
Dynasty Jewelry, said Asian consumers’ growing
interest in fine jewellery and coloured gemstones,
coupled with volatile market conditions in the US
and Europe, are driving Dynasty to a new business
direction, according to Wong.
Bri-Star Jewellers Ltd
A refreshing fine jewellery collection, which casts
the spotlight on emerald-cut and baguette diamonds,
is further testament to Bri-Star Jewellers Ltd’s world-
renowned jewellery design and manufacturing know-how.

A diamond bangle in 18-karat
gold and a diamond ring
in 18-karat gold by Bri-Star
Jewellers Ltd
The Ben Yep Collection features a wide range of
designs specifically created to meet the needs of a
modern, confident woman and help her express her
individuality, the company noted.
Bri-Star, which specialises in fine diamond and
coloured gemstone jewellery, has a sturdy foothold in
the US market. It also has a strong following in China’s
fine jewellery sector.
The company’s most sought-after products include
bridal and fashion jewellery as well as statement
pieces all set in gold.
“Bri-Star recognises the diverse needs of
consumers and different cultures in today’s
retail markets. As such, we help customers
identify opportunities and solutions across
a wide range of product designs, types
and price points,” noted the jeweller.
Initially based in the US, Bri-Star moved
its manufacturing operations to Hong Kong
and China in 2002.
“Our company’s strengths lie in the
design, product development, cutting-edge
technology and on-time delivery of products.
Understanding the importance of these factors,
we have always taken our orders enthusiastically
and seriously. As such, we have been awarded as
best supplier in quality control as well as timely delivery
by a number of major retailers,” remarked Bri-Star.
JR Diamond International Ltd
The One-Of-A-Kind Collection by JR Diamond
International Ltd features high-quality diamonds, rubies,
sapphires and emeralds in 18-karat gold jewellery. The
designs are trendy yet bold.
JEWELLERY: HONG KONG
“The design of each jewel is carefully crafted to
follow the unique features of the centre stone. The
surrounding diamonds are individually selected to
match our fine standards,” noted the jeweller.
The sparkling collection includes necklaces,
earrings, rings, pendants and bracelets.
Established in Hong Kong in 1998, JR Diamond
said its first novelty design, the Queen’s Cut diamond
and Queen’s Heart jewellery collections, bolstered
its reputation as an expert in the diamond jewellery
industry.
Henry Jewellery Manufacturer Co Ltd
Henry Jewellery Manufacturer Co Ltd’s latest
collection of diamond-encrusted hoop earrings in
avant-garde style is aimed at enticing customers from
major markets such as China, the US and Europe.
“There is no end to elegance when it comes to
Henry Jewellery’s creations. Our latest collection
features pieces adorned with glittering diamonds and
designed in exquisite patterns. It embodies everything
fashionable. The Hoop earrings are ideal for any
occasion and can be matched with any outfit. It is a
timeless and stylish choice for women of all ages,”
noted the jeweller.
Established in 1985, Henry Jewellery offers fine
diamond, gem-set and pearl jewellery in 8- to 18-karat
gold, platinum and silver to a wide range of clients.
Over the years, the company expanded its presence
in global markets through constant innovation and
the launch of contemporary fine jewellery collections.
It is currently one of the major jewellery
manufacturers in Hong Kong.
The company also obtained an ISO
certification on quality management
systems.
“We are flexible in every aspect to
meet our customer’s needs. We are
aware of challenges in the market so we
work closely with customers to match
our products with their preferences
at more competitive prices,” added
Henry Jewellery. JNA
Top: Ruby and
diamond ring
by JR Diamond
International Ltd.
Right: Diamond-
studded hoop earrings
with coloured gemstone
accents in 18-karat gold by Henry Jewellery
Manufacturer Co Ltd
︱March 2017
29
CONVERSATIONS

Iconic
jeweller to grow
international presence
By Marie Feliciano

A
prestigious luxury jewellery house
with an incredible legacy, India-based
Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers
is preparing to drive its growth this year by
expanding in international markets and fortifying
its position as a global player in the world of
haute joaillerie.

30 ︱March 2017
 CONVERSATIONS

business, talked about the strategic direction of

Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas in the coming years,
and the brand’s unique selling proposition that sets
it apart in a crowded marketplace.

JNA: How is 2017 looking up for Birdhichand

Ghanshyamdas?
Nawal Agrawal: As far as we can see right now,
we think that 2017 will be as good as the previous
year for Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas. In 2015-
2016, we concentrated more on building our
domestic business and profile. This year, however,
we are looking forward to expanding in international
markets. We will launch high-impact campaigns
involving celebrities and introduce exciting
collections.

JNA: How will you go about expanding your

business internationally?
Agrawal: We will be participating in major trade
shows such as the Las Vegas and Hong Kong fairs
for example. We have customers in many countries,
and we will focus on growing our existing client base.
We made quite an impression at the India International
Jewellery Week shows organised by the GJEPC
(Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council), which
served as platforms for us to raise our profile globally.

JNA: India has quite a number of established

designer brands and ateliers. What
differentiates you from these equally strong
competitors?

Models present some of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers’

finest collections. Each piece is painstakingly made by hand,
and set with fine-quality diamonds, emeralds, rubies and pearls;
and (right) Nawal Agrawal is the driving force behind legendary
jeweller, Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas. Also shown in this photo is a
luxurious multi-row necklace made of Colombian emerald beads,
rubies and rose-cut and full-cut diamonds

Headquartered in Jaipur – an important centre

for the coloured gemstone trade – Birdhichand
Ghanshyamdas has transformed itself into an iconic
brand, thanks to its ability to successfully integrate
age-old jewellery-making techniques, which it has
perfected in the last 147 years, and innovative methods.
Technology is utilised to bring to life the jeweller’s brand
tradition, heritage and craftsmanship, as seen in its
signature collections – Hunar, Noor, Adrishya, Aranya,
Amer, Aks and Adaa.
In an interview with JNA during the 10th Signature
IIJS (India International Jewellery Show) in Mumbai,
Nawal Agrawal, fourth-generation leader of the family

︱March 2017
31
CONVERSATIONS
Top: The intricate detailing in this handmade
bracelet demonstrates Birdhichand
Ghanshyamdas’ master craftsmanship and
gemstone-cutting expertise. Right: Diamond
and ruby earring by Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas.
Instead of using gold prongs, the jeweller used
custom-cut rubies to secure the diamonds
Agrawal: Our unique selling
proposition is that we only produce
handmade jewellery using techniques
that have been passed down from
one generation to another. Our collections are
what one would describe as very high-end, royal
Indian jewellery. We use a lot of coloured gemstones
and diamonds in various old ‘cuts’ like rose cut and
full cut. This gives authenticity to the ‘look’ that we
want to give our jewellery. We are the experts when it
comes to these types of cuts. We start with the rough
gemstones to fully realise our designs. (Birdhichand
Ghanshyamdas is also well-versed in Kundankari, a
technique wherein layers of pure gold or kundan form
a solid wedge around the gemstone, and Meenakari,
the art of enamelling.)
Every design concept starts with a sketch, which
turns into a very detailed drawing of the envisioned
piece – from the gemstones and outskirts to the
prongs.
JNA: You cut your own gemstones?
Agrawal: Yes, we do it in-house, right in the
factory itself. Every little detail is carefully planned
and executed. We have produced pieces that use
coloured gemstones, like rubies, as prongs. It’s this
attention to detail, passion for quality, and use of
ancient jewellery-making techniques that differentiate
us from everyone else.
32 ︱March 2017
JNA: What creative process do you employ to
produce a cohesive collection?
Agrawal: Each collection has a theme. Adrishya and
Aranya – the latter is the Sanskrit term for ‘forest’ – are
inspired by flora and fauna, and make use of fancy
colour diamonds, particularly natural canary yellow
diamonds with precious coloured gemstones. The
diamonds are uncut or are in rose cuts and flat cuts.
Amér is inspired by the architecture of the forts
and palaces of Rajasthan, primarily the Amer fort,
which is the only yellow monument in Jaipur –
popularly known as India’s ‘Pink City.’ The collection
includes pieces embellished with white and natural
fancy pink and yellow diamonds, emeralds, natural
Basra pearls and rubies.
Adaa, which was introduced last
year, is our way of paying tribute to
six iconic women from the pages
of Indian history, namely Maharani
Gayatri Devi, Sita Devi (Kapurthala),
Umrao Jaan, Razia Sultan, Jodha
Bai and Queen Niloufer.
This year, we have come up with
a more contemporary line of jewellery.
We do not follow trends; we set them.
My son, Yash, designs most of our
collections and serves as creative director
of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas.
JNA: What are the coloured gemstones
that you often use in your collections?
Agrawal: We have been using Mozambican rubies
since the material is suitable for our designs. We do
not need thick pieces of rough. The flatter the material,
the more useful it is to us. We do not use any glass-
filled material. We need stronger and more stable
gemstones, and for this purpose, we sometimes use
heat-treated rubies.
We also use Zambian emeralds but you will
also see several Colombian emeralds in our pieces.
Recently, we produce a showpiece – a multi-row
necklace – made only of Colombian emerald beads.
JNA: Are you confident about the future of the
Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas brand?
Agrawal: We are offering something different, fresh
and new to the world; so yes, we are definitely seeing
a very bright future ahead of us. JNA
For more Conversations, log on to
jewellerynewsasia.com
DESIGN

Designer
captivates with
culture-inspired pieces
By Bernardette Sto. Domingo

I
ndonesia-born Chinese designer
Erny Pontoh Johnstone is making
strides in Asia’s fine jewellery
sector, thanks to her innate flair
for beauty and innovative use of
diamonds and coloured gemstones.
A private banker by profession, the
designer decided to pursue her passion
for jewellery in 2009 and eventually founded
Kura Fine Jewellery of Hong Kong.
Johnstone sat with JNA to talk about her transition
into the world of jewellery design and her long-term business
strategies.

JNA: What inspired you to forge a new

path in jewellery design?
Erny Pontoh Johnstone: I was in the finance
industry for 10 years. I then got married and
started to move around the world with my
husband, who is also banker. I decided to
start my own business since I was moving
around a lot and having my own business
gave me more flexibility. Why jewellery?
Because it is one of my passions. I love
buying and collecting jewellery
during my days as a private
banker. To equip myself
with the necessary skills, I enrolled myself at the
Gemological Institute of America to learn more about
diamonds, gemstones and pearls, and the
philosophy behind jewellery design. I am
lucky that I have a very good relationship with
my ex-private banking clients because they
were my initial customers. Through word of mouth, I 4
eventually was able to build a solid customer base of

34 ︱March 2017

high-net worth private clients mostly
based in Indonesia, Singapore
and Hong Kong as well.
JNA: Who are your
biggest design
influences?
Johnstone: I don’t have
anyone or anything in
particular but if I have to
choose one, I would say
my main inspiration came
from my company logo, which
is a turtle shell. My brand is Kura
Fine Jewellery, and kura means turtle in the Indonesian
language. And from this logo, I came up with my
signature collection, The Cage.
JNA: How would you describe your design
philosophy?
Johnstone: My main design philosophy is versatility.
My designs can be worn in many different
ways to showcase a variety of looks,
which are perfect for all occasions. I
would like to believe that through my
jewellery designs, my customers are able
to freely express themselves and their
distinct personalities.
JNA: What are your favourite
gemstones to work with and why?
Johnstone: Those would have to be
aquamarine and morganite. I love the
soft, pinkish colour of morganite and the
subtle blue hue of aquamarine. I find these two
stones visually soothing. I’m also very partial to
large and extra-large baroque South Sea pearls and
I am constantly on the lookout for them. I love working
with baroque pearls because each piece is unique
in shape – you can never find two baroque pearls
identical in shape. They are perfect for my bespoke
pieces. The bigger the pearl, the better because it
exudes luxury and individuality. My pieces are set in a
combination of 18-karat and 14-karat gold. I also have
a secondary collection in gold-plated sterling silver.
JNA: What do you think will be the biggest
jewellery design trends in 2017?
Johnstone: I would have to say chokers, micro-chains
for bracelets and necklaces, and open-front cuff
bangles will figure a lot in women’s choice of jewellery
this year. I am currently working on a variety of choker
designs as part of my new gold collection as well as
open-front cuff bangles and micro-chain necklaces.
DESIGN
1. Gold cuffs with diamonds
2. Gold bangles with diamonds
3. Erny Pontoh Johnstone
4. Diamond ring with an aquamarine centre gem
5. Diamond pendant
6. and 7. Baroque South Sea pearl pendant and earrings
All jewellery designs by Erny Pontoh Johnstone of
Kura Fine Jewellery
JNA: What else can we expect from you this year?
Johnstone: I am expanding my business to
hopefully capture a wider audience by creating
an online store and taking advantage of social
media channels such as Facebook, Instagram and
Pinterest. I am currently working on collections that
are more affordable, with prices ranging from around
$400 per piece and below to cater to a younger
generation of buyers. This is a new strategy, on top
of my existing business model that is mainly focused
on trunk shows and private exhibitions, and involving
high-end jewellery pieces.
JNA: You mentioned about maximising social media
as an effective business tool. Do you see
this trend further evolving overtime? What
are the advantages of adapting this online
business model?
Johnstone: I think we will see more and more
jewellery designers and companies adopting this
innovative marketing approach. The advantages of
setting up an online business are lower costs and
a wider global reach, particularly among a new
breed of Internet-savvy buyers. JNA
7
︱March 2017
35
DESIGN

Creative talents unleashed at

JMA International Jewelry
Design Competition
E
stablished and up-and-coming designers made a splash at the JMA
International Jewelry Design Competition organised by the Hong
Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Association and HKJE magazine.
The contest’s 2016 edition drew 567 entries, including submissions from
designers based in Taiwan, Singapore, Japan, the UAE and China.
Revolving around the theme “Unity,” the competition saw
exceptional work from Noble Jewelry Ltd, Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd and
PIN (Hong Kong) Ltd. Noble Jewelry’s “Original” necklace won two
Merit Awards – one each for Open Groups I and II – and also clinched
the Best Market Value Award. Peter Lam Jewellery was declared
Champion of Open Group I for its “Bright Radiance” earrings, and the
Best Craftsmanship Award and a Merit Award for its “The Mysterious
Force” bangle. PIN (Hong Kong) took home the gold in Open Group II
with its “Spirit • Realization” ring. The competition’s 2017 edition will be
launched in April. For details, visit www.jmadesigncompetition.org.
Here are the outstanding jewellery pieces that won the judges’
votes in the JMA International Jewelry Design Competition. JNA

OPEN GROUP I:
CHAMPION
Product name: Bright Radiance
Category: Earrings
Designer: Luo Jin Jiao
Company: Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd

36 ︱March 2017
 DESIGN

OPEN GROUP I: MERIT &

BEST CRAFTSMANSHIP
Product name: The Mysterious Force
Category: Bangle
Designer: Zhou Jian Xiang
Company: Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd

OPEN GROUP I: MERIT

Product name: Harmony in Diversity
Category: Pendant
Designer: Jaye Chan
Company: Zuri Jewelry Co Ltd

OPEN GROUP I: MERIT

Product name: Strength
Category: Earrings
Designer: Wei Xu Hua
Company: Noble Jewelry Ltd

︱March 2017
37
DESIGN

OPEN GROUP II: MERIT &

BEST MARKET VALUE AWARD
Product name: Original
Category: Necklace
Designer: Luo Wen Guang
Company: Noble Jewelry Ltd

OPEN GROUP II: CHAMPION

Product name: Spirit • Realization
Category: Ring
Designer: Chau So Man
Company: PIN (Hong Kong) Ltd

38 ︱March 2017
 DESIGN

OPEN GROUP II: MERIT

Product name: Water
Category: Earrings
Designer: Zichun Lin
Company: Shanghai Kimberlite
Diamond Co Ltd

OPEN GROUP II: MERIT

Product name: Party of Flowers and the Fairy
Category: Necklace
Designer: Sun Hao
Company: Guangzhou Z-kin Jewellery Design & Manufacture Co Ltd

︱March 2017
39
TECHNOLOGY
cleaning expert further
strengthens market position
Town Talk Polish Exquisite Jewel Sparkle
and Silver Sparkle
T
own Talk Polish Co Ltd of
the UK is banking on more
than a century of expertise in
the jewellery cleaning and polishing
sector to drive growth over the
coming years.
Established in 1895, the
company said it produces the
finest-quality jewellery cleaners and
polishing cloths from its factory in
the UK.
In an interview with JNA,
Andrew Smyth, managing
director of Town Talk, shared the
company’s legacy, strengths and
business strategies going forward.
JNA: Where does Town Talk
specialise in?
Andrew Smyth: We have the
widest range of products in the
market. We provide cleaners for
all types of jewellery, from high-
end to costume jewellery, that are
individually tailored for gold, silver,
diamonds, pearls and watches. It’s
important to us that the products
are easy to use and give brilliant
results every time. We also want
them to look good, which is why
we put so much emphasis on our
packaging. For years, we have
specialised in ‘own branding’ our
jewellery cleaners and cloths. We
can confidently say that we are the
world leader in this. Our customers
range from large jewellery retail
chains to small independent
40 ︱March 2017
Jewellery
jewellers. If you are selling quality
jewellery, it makes sense that you
would want to put your name on
a quality cloth to go with it. Own
branding offers jewellers a great
way to promote their name and
offer a valuable service to their
customers at the same time.
JNA: Which are your major
markets?
Smyth: We sell all over the world
and our packaging is available in
many different languages to meet
international market demand.
We’re especially proud that we’re
the cleaners of choice of many of
the world’s jewellery workshops;
this means that customers really
can feel confident that they are
using the same products as the
professionals.
JNA: What is your business
strategy in Asia, Europe and
the US?
Smyth: For over 40 years,
Town Talk has worked closely
with our customers across
the continents. We continue
to be a major supplier of ‘own
brand care products’ to leading
manufacturers, distributors and
retailers of premium and luxury
products across Asia, Europe and
the US – from custom-printed,
purpose-specified cleaning cloths
to the finest jewellery and precious
metal cleaners. We’re growing
our network as customers get to
know the reliability of the products.
There are a lot of poor quality
cloths and cleaners around so our
main business strategy remains
the same worldwide – to supply
the world’s finest-quality cloths
and cleaners that really work.
Town Talk Polish isn’t about whims
and gimmicks – and professional
jewellers are taking note.
JNA: What are your notable
achievements in 2016?
Smyth: Town Talk was shortlisted
as Suppler of the Year at the UK
Retail Jewellery Awards in 2016.
We were also involved in the
International Jewellery London’s
Kickstart programme, which
identifies up-and-coming jewellery
designers. We’ve been working
closely with the winner – Marina
Skia – in creating a supply of ‘own
brand’ cleaning cloths, which she’ll
use to help her customers care for
their new jewellery purchases.
JNA: Please share with us your
latest projects and initiatives
in 2017. Will you offer new
products and services?
Smyth: While our research team
is always looking at new ideas, we
have to remember that the Town
Talk formulations are historically
proven and the finest in the world.
They work brilliantly and reliably
so they’re here to stay. We’re
also busy following trends in the
jewellery business. We want to
ensure that the type of jewellery
being made and worn can be
cleaned by a Town Talk product,
and its application remains
simple and reliable. Whether it’s
a cloth, liquid polish, dip, spray
or tissue, we’ll always make sure
it’s of the finest quality. We have
some exciting plans for 2017 and
beyond; we’ll keep you posted. JNA
 TECHNOLOGY

Innovative
safety deposit box for jewellery

A
nglo East Group is
presenting Best Guard,
a series of safety deposit
boxes that provide “customisable
and highly secure options for
safeguarding valuables such as
jewellery.”
According to the company,
the devices incorporate advanced
bolt work mechanisms and state-
of-the-art reinforced composite
Best Guard series
materials that are capable of
withstanding the most advanced
modern break-in methods.
Offered in a range of six sizes,
the Best Guard series comes
in resistance grades II, III, IV, V
and VII to meet specific security
requirements, added Anglo East
Group.
“Best Guard offers the same
advanced security features, high-
quality workmanship and
stringent quality control
as other high-end safes
on the market, but at
much more competitive
prices. It is your perfect
choice for storing
jewellery at home or in
the office,” stated the
company.
The boxes are
made of high-quality
steel and ultra-high performance
concrete or UHPC, Anglo East
Group said, adding that these
extremely durable but lightweight
devices keep transportation and
installation costs to a minimum.
“The three-way bolt work
featured in the locking mechanism
is made of solid rectangular
steel bolts fitted with blocking
devices for maximum resistance
against tampering and break-
in. A wide range of compatible
locking combinations and optional
thermal and impact sensors further
enhance protection through state-
of-the-art technology,” it noted.
“Elegant in design and simple
to install, the Best Guard series
comes in light or dark grey, while
other colour requirements can be
met upon request. Interiors are
finished in luxurious wood panels
and optional leather mounting
while the ergonomically shaped
handle lends its surroundings a
classic touch.” JNA

Rechargeable gemstone tester

U
S-based Gemlogis is offering Lapis One, a
rechargeable multi-gemstone tester that is
used to distinguish the difference between
diamonds, moissanites and simulants.
“The Lapis One is highly accurate. It uses ‘visible
violet light’ technology to illuminate a moissanite,
which excites the atoms and improves electrical
conductivity. This facilitates the tester to successfully
detect moissanites,” noted Gemlogis. “The Lapis One
also features a unique ATC (ambient temperature
compensation) solution for increased accuracy.”
Other features include a retractable tip, which helps
maintain constant pressure against the gemstone;
quick and accurate testing of loose or mounted
stones, regardless of shape or size; 10 hours of
continuous operation; and a two-year warranty.
Gemlogis said the company was co-founded
by an established gemmological precision engineer
Lapis One
whose early influence in the industry proved significant
to later developments. At present, the company
creates innovative products by incorporating aesthetics
to its research and development process. Over the
years, the company has built a strong reputation as an
OBM and ODM.
It has manufacturing facilities in Dongguan, China.
The company also has several ISO certifications under
its belt including ISO9001, ISO14001, ISO13485 and
TS16949.
“We have a team of staff members and engineers
overlooking the entire production to ensure the
highest-quality control and flawless operation,” the
company said. JNA

︱March 2017
41
TECHNOLOGY
Sarine Connect
S
arine Technologies Ltd is
aiming to give diamond and
diamond jewellery buyers a
personalised shopping experience
with the launch of the new Sarine
Connect.
Sarine Connect is a point-of-
sale mobile app for diamond and
jewellery traders and retailers.
According to the company, Sarine
Connect integrates with Sarine
Profile to store and manage
comprehensive diamond information,
with an advanced search and
display tool for instant and focused
presentation of diamonds and
Advanced jewellery display and boxes
A
broad range of jewellery
boxes and displays is now
available from Hong Kong-
based Firmstock Ltd.
According to the company,
its latest collection of jewellery
packaging and display products are
aimed at jewellery manufacturers,
retailers and dealers.
“Firmstock is your ultimate partner
in design and production as we help
turn your merchandise ideas into end
products. Our current collections
include high-end luxury watch and
jewellery displays, prestige watch
42 ︱March 2017
Sarine unveils latest
mobile app for traders
jewellery to customers during the
in-store sales process.
With online and offline functionality,
Sarine Connect gives diamond
sellers immediate 24/7 access to
their diamond inventory, including the
capability to expand their diamond
offerings with virtual stock.
Together with Sarine Profile,
Sarine Connect is the ideal way for
retailers to keep up to date with their
inventory, while keeping customers
engaged with the purchase
process, the company said.
“We live in a world of
contradictory forces. It’s a world
equally driven by heads and
hearts. Information and emotion.
Technology and human connection.
There’s a new generation of
diamond buyers, who are seeking a
new kind of purchase experience,”
said Uzi Levami, CEO of Sarine.
“Today’s jewellery retailers
must provide customers with a
meaningful, personalised experience
that puts them in the centre,
coupled with reliable diamond
information that gives the modern
boxes, ladies’ and men’s
jewellery boxes, cigar
humidors, fountain pen
jackets, unique game boards
and presentation boxes,” the
company said.
In addition to producing
prestige consumer products,
Firmstock can also advise
and produce fine custom-
made wood crafts exclusively for
respective OEMs.
With over 17 years of
experience in the jewellery display
and packaging industry, Firmstock
buyer the confidence they need to
make their diamond decision.”
This dual promise of a “unique
experience and reliable information”
is critical to closing the sale, added
Levami. He also cited jewellery stores’
increasing reliance on technology-
based solutions, which have the
capability to create and deliver this
kind of customer experience.
According to Levami, Sarine
Profile presents the diamond’s
story with a few clicks or swipes
– including its light performance
grading, diamond imaging, its cut
and craftsmanship, the hidden Hearts
and Arrows pattern, authorised lab
report information, and the diamond
seller’s integrated marketing media.
This information provides all the
details about the individual diamond
that reveals its character, true
appearance and desirability. Sarine
Profile is fully customisable so the
seller can choose to include those
parts of the diamond story that best
meet the needs of the customer,
the brand identity and the marketing
goals, he added. JNA
Jewellery boxes from Firmstock Ltd
has built an extensive inventory
of premium-quality products for
a broad range of clients, the
company said. JNA

1
Istanbul Fair
to welcome thousands of international buyers
T
he 44th edition of the Istanbul Expo (Istanbul Fair Center), the
International Jewelry, Watch four-day show offers a number of
& Equipment Fair (Istanbul attractions, including a Mineral &
Jewelry Show-March edition) is Fossil section.
anticipated to draw quality buyers Organised by UBM Rotaforte,
who are looking to replenish their IJS-March is one of the must-
inventories in preparation for their attend events on the jewellery trade
peak demand periods. Scheduled show calendar. Last year’s March
for March 16 to 19 at the CNR edition occupied 60,000 square
metres of gross exhibition space,
drew 21,000 buyers from 110
countries and featured more than
1,250 exhibitors from 27 countries,
the event organiser said.
IJS-March serves as a unique
networking event and opens up
business opportunities to jewellery
professionals from Eastern
Europe, Russia, North
3 Africa, CIS countries and
the Middle East, UBM
1. Buyers fill out Rotaforte added.
registration forms The fair features
to obtain their show major jewellery brands
badges. The B2B fair
is open to qualified and manufacturers
buyers only specialising in diamond,
2. The Istanbul plain gold, pearl and
Jewelry Show offers
a wide array of fine jewellery collections in silver jewellery; loose diamonds,
various styles coloured gemstones and pearls;
3. The Istanbul Jewelry Show attracts jewellery mountings; display
buyers from Europe, CIS countries, Middle
East and North Africa. The fair’s March and packaging products; and
2016 edition drew more than 21,000 machinery, tools and equipment.
buyers from 110 countries, according to Commenting on the show,
the show organiser
4. Coloured gemstone and diamond Chakroun Achraf of Tunisia-
necklace by Roberto Bravo based Jewelry Chakroun said,
TRADE FAIRS
2
“The Istanbul Jewelry Show has
always been a well-organised and
successful exhibition. We’ve had the
good opportunity of meeting with
new companies to place an order.
We will attend the next show, too.”
Yunus Korkan, sales manager
at Kayagold, described the fair’s
March 2016 edition as “very good”
for the company. “We liaised with
new clients from Europe and
China. We are very happy with this
year’s edition,” Korkan said in an
earlier interview.
“Turkish designs are popular
in Hong Kong and China while
Arabian customers prefer pieces
with more elaborate designs. The
electroforming technique is popular
among Arabs, Europeans and
Italians,” he continued.
The top foreign buyers during
the 2016 March edition were
from Iran, Algeria, Saudi Arabia,
Lebanon, Greece, Israel, Tunisia,
Ukraine, Germany, India, Syria,
Macedonia, Jordan, Bulgaria, Iraq
and the United Arab Emirates.
Sermin Cengiz, managing
director of UBM Rotaforte,
underscored the significance of
IJS, noting that Turkey’s jewellery
manufacturing sector is eyeing $5
billion worth of exports by 2018
and $12 billion by 2023. JNA
︱March 2017
43
TRADE FAIRS
Upbeat mood
prevails at Signature IIJS Mumbai
By Marie Feliciano
E
xhibitors at the 10th edition of Signature IIJS
(India International Jewellery Show) Mumbai
were generally positive about their business
prospects this year, citing resilient domestic demand
despite prevailing global economic uncertainties.
Mehul Gandhi of Astmangal, a company which
specialises in the production of handmade gold chains,
told JNA, “Signature IIJS has always been a very
successful show for us. We saw several buyers at the
show, and many of them have placed orders on-site.”
The fair provides India’s jewellers the platform that
they need to network with potential buyers at home
and from overseas, he continued. “Judging by the
number of customers that I saw at Signature IIJS, the
Indian market remains strong; hence, we are expecting
2017 to be another good year for us,” said Gandhi.
Rajesh Agarwal of
Rajshree Jewellers said India’s
demonetisation initiative only
had a temporary and marginal
impact on jewellery sales. “The
market has since stabilised,”
Agarwal said. “My company
has not been impacted at
all, and we are anticipating
another solid business
performance this year.”
The manufacturer,
WFDB President Ernest
Blom visits one of the
which produces bridal gold
booths at Signature IIJS jewellery, noted that buyer
feedback to its collections of
earrings, armlets and belts was encouraging.
Organised by the Gem & Jewellery Export
Promotion Council (GJEPC), Signature IIJS featured
more than 500 exhibitors occupying over 1,000
booths at the Bombay Exhibition Centre. The show
attracted around 15,000 visitors from more than
455 cities in India, in addition to buyers from over 55
countries, during its four-day run, according to GJEPC.
Buyer delegations from markets such as the UK,
Iran, Russia, Uzbekistan, Turkey, Lebanon, China,
Hong Kong, the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Oman, Sri Lanka,
44 ︱March 2017
Gold bangles by Om Jewellers
From left: GJEPC Executive Director Sabyasachi Ray; Manoj
Dwivedi, joint secretary of India’s Union Ministry of Commerce;
GJEPC Chairman Praveenshankar Pandya; WFDB President Ernest
Blom and Saunak Parikh, convener for Exhibitions – National of
GJEPC, present the exhibition catalogue
Bangladesh and Nepal attended the show, the council
added. “GJEPC has been conducting several trade
promotion initiatives, and our exhibitions are among
the most popular and recognised ones,” GJEPC
Chairman Praveenshankar Pandya said. “Signature IIJS
has been one of the most sought-after exhibitions after
IIJS (August). This year, its significance has gone up
since the gem and jewellery sector is looking forward
to growth in exports following recent challenges.”
Signature IIJS was held in conjunction with the
fourth edition of the India Gem & Jewellery Machinery
Expo (IGJME), a trade fair showcasing the latest
innovations of machinery, tools, components and
packaging manufacturers to name a few.
Saunak Parikh, GJEPC’s convener for Exhibitions
– National, said, “Signature IIJS serves as an ideal
platform to gain insights into current market trends and
demand. IGJME complements Signature IIJS with its
technological prowess, making it a one-stop sourcing
destination for manufacturers. We have extended the
timings of the four-day fair to enhance interactions
between exhibitors and visitors.”
According to GJEPC, overseas visitor registration
at Signature IIJS’ 10th edition recorded a sharp
increase compared to year-ago numbers. One of the
show’s main attractions is the Signature Club, which
casts the spotlight on the latest collections of the
country’s leading brands and ateliers. JNA
PEARLS
Pearl traders cite significant
buyer turnout at HK auctions
B
uyers from major international
pearl markets in the US,
Europe and Asia flocked to
Rio Pearl’s auction held on February
21 and 22 in Hong Kong.
According to Jonathan Cheng,
director at Rio Pearl, the 2017
auction saw a “good, diverse
turnout.”
“We had a pretty good amount
of people that came this time
from the US, Tahiti, Europe, all
across the Greater China region,
Japan and Southeast Asia. We
have about 20 companies that
came from Myanmar and about
10 Chinese companies,” noted
Cheng. “What a lot of the buyers
like about our auctions is we have
good-quality products both for
4 the Railway Plaza in Tsim Sha Tsui.
48 ︱March 2017
1 2
Tahitian and South Sea pearls,
which are all very saleable; there’s
not much waste.”
“Another advantage is we
have a large office. A lot of our
Japanese buyers prefer the
window seat where there’s
natural light so they can better
view the pearls. This is actually
a showroom for our jewellery
but we renovated it to be able
to transform it into an auction
house every three months,” he
added.
The February sale is Rio
Pearl’s fourth auction, following
a major auction in September
last year.
A total of 623 lots of
Myanmar South Sea pearls
and Tahitian pearls were offered
at Rio Pearl’s auction. The sale
featured 245,016 pieces of
Myanmar South Sea pearls (295
lots or 72,789 pieces) and Tahitian
Pearls (328 lots or 172,227
pieces) with a combined weight of
114,738.37 momme, according to
the Hong Kong-based pearl trader.
The two-day auction was held at

In an interview in June 2016,
Rio Pearl revealed that it started
farming South Sea pearls in
Myanmar a decade ago, and the
venture started paying dividends
in recent years. “We spent six to
seven years on the preliminary
work alone and had the first
harvest of our pearls five years
ago. As we grew in experience,
the pearls we harvested last year
improved considerably in both
lustre and colour,” noted the
company.
A broad selection of top-quality
golden South Sea pearls from
Myanmar, meanwhile, was displayed
at the 5th International Myanmar
Pearl Auction held in Hong Kong
from February 23 to 24.
Michael Hajjar, director of
auction organiser Belpearl (HK) Ltd,
said majority of the buyers were
from Japan and other international
markets.
5
“The turnout is good. Apart from
Japan and other countries, we have
more buyers from Myanmar this
time. It’s also worth mentioning that
we have some new clients from
the US, and a few new Europeans
as well,” Hajjar said in an interview
on the first day of the auction. “We
have 210 lots but this could go
up to 500 or 600 since there are
two more auctions on February 25
(Indonesia) and 26 (Tahiti).”
The first two days of the auction
focused on golden South Sea
pearls from Myanmar. Belpearl
collaborated with Japan’s K. Otsuki
Pearl Co Ltd to offer goods from
Indonesia for the February 25 sale.
“Otsuki decided to showcase their
goods for the first time and they’ve
entrusted Belpearl to organise an
auction for them in Hong Kong,”
revealed Hajjar.
Keshi pearls are also making
waves in the industry at the
8 organiser Belpearl (HK) Ltd
PEARLS
6
7
moment, the company official
added. Hajjar cited “intense
interest” in top-quality pearls among
Asian buyers, which is expected
to fuel growth in the global pearl
market going forward.
“Demand seems to be
sustained for high-quality golden
pearls and that’s what we are
providing. As long as you have
top-quality products, which are
inherently rare, there will be
demand for it so prices are stable,”
added Hajjar. JNA
1. Pearl lots on offer at Rio Pearl’s
February 2017 auction
2. Buyers take advantage of window
seats, which provide natural light, to
view Rio Pearl’s auction offerings
3. A buyer inspects South Sea
pearls at Belpearl’s 5th international
Myanmar Pearl Auction in
Hong Kong
4. and 8. South Sea pearls from
Myanmar at the Belpearl auction
5. Rio Pearl’s fine-quality Tahitian
pearl lots
6. Golden South Sea pearls at Rio
Pearl’s February 2017 auction
7. Michael Hajjar, director of auction
︱March 2017
49
PEARLS

Sarah Ho
enchants with latest
pearl jewellery line

C
elebrated jewellery designer Sarah Ho recently unveiled
a fine jewellery line that pays homage to the beauty and
versatility of pearls.
The Persica Suite, which is the centrepiece of the designer’s
Hidden Garden Collection, is a celebration of Ho’s return into the
realm of high jewellery.
Ho revisited her passion for the Art Deco period for
inspiration, according to Sarah Ho London. The designer also did
a research on botanical illustrations of peach blossoms (Prunus
persica) and Chinese decorative arts of “flora and fauna,” which she From top: Persica
necklace in 18-karat
reinterpreted into jewellery pieces that encapsulate her signature design.
white gold adorned
“It took over two years to source the rare ‘Tutti Frutti’ conch pearls
Persica ring in with diamonds,
18-karat white gold
in the Persica Suite, which allows fluid lines to echo the one-of-a-kind conch pearls and
with a pearl centre shapes of the rarest pearl that becomes the hero in each jewel,” noted Ho. pearls; and Persica
gem and diamond The design allows the rare conch pearl to take its pride of place ‘Tutti Frutti’ earrings
and conch pearl among brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds and South Sea pearls, in 18-karat white
accents according to Ho. gold embellished
Another highlight of the Hidden Garden Collection are the Peony with diamonds,
Dawn earrings and ring in 18-karat rose gold embellished with conch pearls and
diamonds, pink opals, pearls and emeralds. pearls
“Pink opals and cultured pearls that surround a very
unique bronzed, cultured pearl with accents of emeralds
complete this exquisite ring and
earrings,” added Ho.
Also taking centre stage
among Ho’s fine pearl jewellery
creations is the Lotus necklace in
18-karat white gold with round brilliant
and marquise diamonds, pink freshwater
pearls and white South Sea pearls.
Peony Dawn
“Lotus leaves unfurl around the neck with a
earrings and ring
in 18-karat rose
poetic sense of creativity. The floral motif exhibits the
gold accented with intricate Italian craftsmanship that cradles pearls of blushed
diamonds, pink pinks and shimmering moon whites, while round and
opals, pearls and marquise diamonds accent the timeless piece,” added the
emeralds jewellery designer. JNA

50 ︱March 2017
PEARLS

1 2

Designers
3

celebrate beauty of
Tahitian pearls
P
ositive about the demand outlook for Tahitian pearls despite trying
market conditions, the Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong
(TPAHK) is revving up its creative marketing efforts to capture the
attention of younger consumers.
One effective channel through which TPAHK is casting the spotlight on
Tahitian pearls and building buzz in the creative space is its sponsorship
4 of design competitions. Last year, the association was one of the key
supporters of the JMA International Jewellery Design Competition, SJDA
(Shenzhen Jewelry Designer Association) Tahitian Pearl Design Salon &
5 Forum, and the China (International) Pearl Jewelry Design Competition.
TPAHK General Manager Ida Wong said these competitions
highlighted the exceptional beauty of Tahitian pearls. Although top-
quality, round Tahitian pearls measuring 10mm and above in diameter
and with dark, strong colours are favoured by buyers from mainland
China, pearls in various shapes, sizes and colours are starting to gain
favour among younger consumers. The Japanese, European and US
markets are partial to 8mm-9mm Tahitian pearls in different shapes
including round, circled, semi-baroque and baroque, she continued.
Wong also noted that edgy Tahitian pearl jewellery collections have
been capturing market share due to the growing online shopping habit
among younger consumers.
“They are partial to simple jewellery pieces that are trendy and
perfect for daily wear,” Wong said. “They also want personalised
designs that reflect their personalities. These pieces are usually
6 designed around baroque pearls.”
Here are some of the Tahitian pearl jewellery creations that have won
accolades at recent design competitions. JNA

Photo credit: Images provided by TPAHK
1. & 2. Tahitian pearl brooch by Chen Junqian. This piece was declared the Tahitian
Pearl Award Champion at the SJDA Design Awards
3. This Tahitian pearl necklace took the second prize at the 1st China (International) Pearl
Jewelry Design Competition
4. Shen Dan’s unique piece won two prizes: Tahitian Pearl Award Champion and
second-placer at the 1st China (International) Pearl Jewelry Design Competition
5. These Tahitian pearl pendants placed third at the 1st China (International) Pearl
Jewelry Design Competition
6. This design won a Merit Award at the 2016 JMA International Jewelry Design
Competition. Named ‘Gathered,’ the ring design was created by Maple Li for the
Jewellery Studio, College of Fine Arts, SCUN

52 ︱March 2017

Traders cite steady
demand for tourmalines in 2017
G
emstone traders and jewellery manufacturers
are anticipating stable demand for tourmalines
in 2017, thanks to the stone’s inherent charm
and versatility.
In separate interviews with JNA, a number of
gemstone specialists and jewellers said rubellites and
Paraiba tourmalines will continue to be the top-selling
stones, with major markets driving the demand.
Steady market
Yuki Horiuchi, CEO of Japan-based gemstone and
jewellery manufacturer Ambrose and Co Ltd, said the
Chinese market is expected to fuel activity in the
tourmaline sector.
The most sought-after colours are pink,
green, blue and yellow. Paraiba tourmaline’s
entrancing blue hue continues to attract global
buyers but strong demand is also pushing
prices up, he noted.
“The market has always been deeply
interested in tourmalines, which are highly
regarded for their beauty,
durability and wide
variety of colours,” the
company official said.
Tourmalines are best
showcased in pendants and
necklaces, according to
Horiuchi. “We find that these
stones are ideal for pendants
or necklaces in subtle yet
Tourmalines from Hong Kong-based Blue Gems Supplier; and
Shuja Ulhaq, director of Blue Gems Supplier
GEMSTONES
Top: Necklace with
tourmalines in various
colours by Ambrose and
Co Ltd. Left: Multi-colour
tourmaline necklace by
Ambrose and Co Ltd
sophisticated designs.
They can also work in
statement pieces with
bolder, edgier styles,”
he added.
Shuja Ulhaq, director of gemstone specialist Blue
Gems Supplier, also expects robust demand for
tourmalines throughout the year.
“Buyers always look for top-quality materials
so those products will always sell. The tourmaline
business will be very stable this year, which is an
improvement from 2016,” noted Ulhaq.
Growth will likely come from the US and European
markets since the Chinese market has softened a
bit, he added. The situation in China, however, is
expected to stabilise and consumers are seen to start
replenishing their stocks by the middle of the year.
According to Ulhaq, US clients are on the lookout
for multi-colour tourmalines, rubellites and Paraiba
tourmalines.
“If you offer the right quality and the right price,
there will always be business. At the moment, it is
tough to get hold of nice-quality goods since the
supply is tight so premier-quality stones move fast,”
he remarked.
︱March 2017
53
GEMSTONES

Blue Gems Supplier, A butterfly-inspired necklace

which is based in Hong layout consisting of 74.12
carats of Paraiba tourmalines
Kong, sells its tourmalines
from Paul Wild OHG
for $3,000 to $15,000 per
carat, depending on the colour
and quality. the colour trends of the year,”
“The ‘useable’ size is always according to Wild. “We also create
in demand. When I say useable, layouts that use a combination of
these are the ones that are ideal for carvings and facetted gemstones.”
jewellery making. Normally those are One of Paul Wild’s exceptional layouts is a
1 to 3 carats, or 5 to 15 carats for butterfly-inspired set made up of nearly 90 carats
rings or necklaces. Some jewellers of Paraiba tourmalines from Brazil in high-quality
even look for 25- to 30-carat facetted round, oval and pear shapes. The layout
stones, but these are very rare,” also includes delicately carved gemstones shaped
revealed Ulhaq. like butterfly wings. The Paraiba tourmalines were
The company’s top markets are not sourced from new production
China, the US and Europe. but were collected by the
“People are interested in company over several
tourmalines because they come in years, he said.
many different colours. The prices are “We always see the
reasonable as well,” he added. Paraiba tourmaline as our
‘worldwide star;’ its colour
Paraiba tourmaline is breath-taking,” Wild said.
One of the world’s leading coloured gemstone The new layout design is a
manufacturers, Paul Wild OHG described the Paraiba reflection of the company’s Garden
tourmaline “as an independent gemstone because of Paradise theme for 2017. A butterfly-motif ring
its outstanding reputation.” layout consisting
“There is strong demand for Paraiba tourmalines Jewellery trends of 12.14 carats of
all the time. At the moment, prices have been going Kengo Kajita, executive Paraiba tourmalines
up because of the shortage in the supply of high- director and COO of Kajita from Paul Wild OHG
quality Paraiba, regardless of whether those gems Co Ltd, said rubellites both in
are from Brazil or Africa,” said company CEO Markus deep red or pinkish hues are the most popular at the
Paul Wild. moment.
The gemstone expert noted that China’s demand “We don’t foresee any substantial growth or
for rubellite and bicolour tourmaline has decline in the tourmaline market in 2017. There
declined. The upside, however, is that these will be steady demand, particularly for stones of
gemstones’ prices have not increased, 2- to 10-carat sizes, which are most suitable for
he continued. “We’d also like to note that commercial-price jewellery,” stated Kajita.
established markets have started buying China is still the main growth driver. “Since China
again,” said Wild. is the biggest market for tourmalines, Chinese buyers’
The coloured gemstone preferences also influence the latest trends in
specialist is all set to present tourmaline jewellery. We expect tourmaline jewellery
new layouts for bracelets pieces in simpler and more subdued designs,
with large-sized centre which highlight the colour of the stone,” he added.
stones and earrings Established in 1920, Kajita Co Ltd is a family-
in modern designs. run enterprise that specialises in fine jewellery
“We always produce and other luxury items. Its focus has always
new designs using been coloured gemstone jewellery, having
gemstones that match successfully built its reputation as one of Japan’s
major industry players.
Left: Tourmaline pendant with The company’s jewellery products come in
diamond and pearl accents, and ring 18-karat gold or platinum. It is aiming to tap into
with a tourmaline centre stone by potential markets in Asia and the Middle East to further
Kajita Co Ltd strengthen its global reach. JNA

54 ︱March 2017
 GEMSTONES

Tanzanite:
50 years of captivating brilliance
By Bernardette Sto. Domingo and Marie Feliciano

T
anzanite’s exceptional blue-violet colour has
mesmerised gemstone and jewellery traders for
2 decades. Over the years, the stone has steadily
carved out a niche in the global coloured gemstone trade,
rivalling perennial favourites in terms of colour, appearance
and allure.
This year, tanzanite celebrates 50 years of its discovery in
Tanzania in 1967. According to TanzaniteOne Mining Ltd,
when a Maasai tribesman first discovered these blue-
violet crystals, they were first thought to be unusually
vibrant sapphires. It was soon confirmed that they were
more complex than a sapphire, with a colour that’s more
4
alluring and exotic.
In 1968, the stone was christened “tanzanite” by Tiffany
& Co, which then embarked on a successful campaign to
market tanzanite and build its reputation in the
trade.
Tanzanite was ranked the second-
favourite coloured gemstone in the
US in 2001. It was also marketed as a
stone that’s a “thousand times rarer than
diamonds” and with a little over a decade of
supply remaining, according to TanzaniteOne.
The stone was also named a December birthstone,
joining turquoise and zircon.

1. and 2. Square and round tanzanites

3. Tanzanite and diamond rings by jewellery designer
Stephen Webster
4. Tanzanite pendant with diamond accents
5. Polished tanzanite gems
All gemstone and jewellery photos provided by
TanzaniteOne

︱March 2017
55
 Major markets demand in China and the Far East,” revealed
Global demand for tanzanite Greaney. “The work that the Tanzanite Foundation
is expected to pick up in 2017 does with wholesalers and retailers in China, for
as supply stabilises, according to instance, will be critical to our success in growing the
Robert Grafen Greaney, managing tanzanite market there.”
director of TanzaniteOne. Benjamin Hackman of US-based tanzanite trader
Ruby and “Supply from TanzaniteOne is Intercolor, meanwhile, said the US is likely to fuel
tanzanite ring back on track after experiencing a movement in the tanzanite market, citing a decline in
tough time in Chinese demand.
the industry. This, coupled Rising interest in tanzanite among other markets
with a new management at such as India, Taiwan and Europe could
the Tanzanite Foundation bode well for the tanzanite
that will be working with sector, added Hackman.
retailers and wholesalers “The fastest-moving products
to promote the inherent are stones of 5 carats and
qualities of tanzanite, up in darker, more vivid tones.
will certainly push Our most popular products are
demand for the beloved top-quality, free-sized stones
gemstone,” noted of 5 to 6 carats. Retail prices
Greaney. are currently pegged between
The key existing $600 and $1,000 per carat,” the
markets of the US, Europe company official said.
and Japan are seen to drive growth
Rough tanzanite
in the tanzanite industry, but traders Blue temptations
are locking their sights on another potential major Tanzanite’s most enchanting attributes are its deep
market. “Traditional tanzanite markets will play a crucial blue hues and vivid violets, which also determine the
role in 2017 but our focus this year will be increasing price of the stone.
“Tanzanite has so many
incredible qualities that
make it alluring. First of
all, the stone is beautiful
and clean, and comes in
naturally captivating colours.
The deep blues and exquisite
violets you see in a cut stone
are unlike anything else in
the market. These colours
imbue life to the stone,”
noted Greaney. “Light
gives the stone an almost
electric quality when it hits
AG Color’s award-winning
the facets, as if the natural pair of smooth tanzanite
beauty, life and soul of drops with a combined
Africa are instilled in the weight of 30.37 carats; and
a 43.96-carat oval cabochon
stone.” from AG Color. This stone
Tanzanite is likewise was awarded the top prize
celebrated for its rarity, at the 2015 AGTA Spectrum
Awards for the category,
the company official ‘Other Faceted’
noted. Tanzanite is mined
from only one source – a small 4km strip of earth in
Tanzania at the foot of majestic Mount Kilimanjaro.
Hackman echoed this sentiment, adding that
Hollywood actress Cate Blanchett dons a tanzanite necklace in a colour, clarity and competitive prices are the most
red-carpet event attractive features of tanzanite.

56 ︱March 2017

Top: A pair of smooth tanzanite drops from
AG Color. Right: Heart-shaped tanzanite
gems from AG Color
He also underscored
the compelling charm of
tanzanite, adding that “most
people like the colour
blue; it’s human nature.
The sky and the ocean
are blue. Good-quality
stones are very clean.
There’s no other stone that I know of that is as
visually appealing.”
At the recently concluded Hong Kong International
Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, US-based AG Color
Inc presented its fine selection of tanzanite gems.
The gemstone dealer, which has received numerous
awards for its perfectly cut and fine-quality tanzanites,
highlighted goods weighing 3 to 50 carats, including
exceptionally cut and facetted stones, cabochons,
singles and pairs, at the fair.
“Demand is good for stones in calibrated sizes,”
company official Hemant Phophaliya said. “We are
also seeing solid demand for tanzanite gems within the
3- to 50-carat range. Of course, perfectly cut pairs are
always highly desirable.”
The gemstone dealer is seeing demand from
major markets around the world, including the US
and China. “We are hoping for increased demand
from the China market in particular,” said Phophaliya.
“We have a very extensive collection of top-colour,
finely-cut goods, which our Chinese customers find
exceptionally desirable. To top it off, we have rare and
hard-to-find certified unheated tanzanite gems, which
are ideal for those looking to build up an alternative
investment portfolio from a long-term perspective.”
AG Color’s large selection of goods is so varied that
it virtually caters to every market segment and budget.
“Prices could be anywhere from $5 a carat for
commercial-grade goods in calibrated sizes to $500
per carat for fine and exceptional pairs, singles and
fancy cuts,” Phophaliya said.
GEMSTONES
Baroque gems and
a smooth tanzanite
drop from AG Color
In spite of market uncertainties, AG Color is bullish
about its future business prospects.
“Times are challenging but our loyal customers
who are always looking for fine-quality goods keep
us in a positive mood,” he said. “Our strategy is
simple: Produce top-quality gems that our clients
can use to create beautiful jewellery.”
Demand for fancy and remarkable tanzanite
gems is still increasing, according to Germany-
based Paul Wild OHG. “Normal” or regular
items are likewise seeing stable demand, the
company added.
“China is still a strong buyer but the
demand for tanzanite is coming from all over
the world,” the coloured gemstone expert said,
noting that the company does not foresee any
negative movements for the stone in 2017.
Challenges and opportunities
Further growth in the global tanzanite market
hinges upon aggressive marketing campaigns and
trade education, according to Greaney.
“There are massive opportunities for tanzanite
in the coming years. We firmly believe that working
with retailers and wholesalers, and educating them
and their customers about tanzanite as a priced
possession and a viable investment tool, we can
create stronger demand for tanzanite,” he added.
Hackman remarked that tanzanite has always
been an “easy item to sell because of its beauty and
affordability.”
“Tanzanite’s rarity is
unparalleled and we
are banking on this
characteristic of the stone,
as well as its natural
beauty. With the right
approach, we can drive
further interest in tanzanite.
Due to the rarity and limited
resources of tanzanite and Heart-shaped tanzanite
from Paul Wild OHG
the fact that it is a single-
generation gemstone means
we have to do things right and fast, and make sure
the potential of this African treasure is realised,”
added Greaney. JNA
︱March 2017
57
GEMSTONES

A satellite view showing Bemainty, an area about 35km south-east of Ambatondrazaka in Madagascar and the site of the new sapphire rush.
Photo credit: Google Earth

Sapphire rush in
Bemainty By Vincent Pardieu

I
n October 2016, a new sapphire rush saw
approximately 50,000 miners flocking to an area
about 35km south-east of Ambatondrazaka in
Madagascar. It was still ongoing in February 2017
when I visited it. According to many Sri Lankan
gemstone merchants who have been visiting
Madagascar regularly for the past 20 years, the
new deposit produced in less than six months more
fine large blue sapphires of over 50 carats and
padparadschas of over 20 carats than the whole of
Matched pair of cushion-
Madagascar in the last 20 years.
shaped blue sapphires
I was informed of the discovery on October 6,
from the new deposit in
2016 by Marc Noverraz, a Swiss gemstone merchant
Bemainty. Photo credit:
Vincent Pardieu
based in Madagascar. According to Noverraz, some
large, highly saturated blue sapphires were found in
Bemainty in late September. This attracted miners from all over the island, as
well as buyers mainly from Sri Lanka who settled either in Ambatondrazaka or
Antananarivo to purchase gemstones.

58 ︱March 2017

Fine blue sapphires from Bemainty.
Photo credit: Vincent Pardieu
On October 26, 2016, I was sent
a stunning photo of the mining area by
Ashkar Ali Mubarak, a gem merchant from
Beruwala (Sri Lanka), who shared it on
social media. The photo showed thousands
of miners working and camping in a narrow
valley between two forest-covered hills.
Within a few days, that photo was shared
by hundreds of people, and the whole gem trade
became aware that something serious was happening
near Ambatondrazaka.
About the same time, Rosey Perkins, a young
British gemmologist, was able to visit the new mining
site from October 23 to 26, 2016. Her reports and a
short video are available on www.roseyperkins.com.
In December and January 2016, I worked at the
GIA laboratory in Bangkok on a preliminary study
based on a parcel of blue sapphire samples collected
from that new deposit. I visited the new mining
site from February 7 to 10, 2017, mapped it and
witnessed the evolution of the sapphire rush that had
already been ongoing for five months. A complete
report about that expedition and a study of the stones
are available on www.gia.edu.
New deposit
To reach the new mining area, we had to travel one
day by car from Anatananarivo, capital of Madagascar,
to Ambatondrazaka, the main rice-producing centre
on the island. This is where most of the buyers settled
themselves until November when the local authorities
asked them to leave. After spending a few days
preparing for our expedition, we then travelled for an
hour by car to Ansevabe village where we started to
GEMSTONES
walk. We walked eight hours in the forest-covered hills
on the east to reach Bemainty village. From Bemainty,
we had to walk another 90 minutes to reach the new
mining site in “Tananarivo Carrieres.” When we arrived
there, we found a long valley about 2km north to south
with thousands of people digging and washing gravels.
The sapphires produced near Bemainty are mainly
of two types.
On the north-west of Bemainty, miners worked at
“Maladialina” where there was already some mining
in 2012 and 2014, and at “Bemainty Carrieres Vovo.”
These areas are producing mainly bluish-green and
yellowish stones with low saturation that do not excite
dealers that much despite the fact that they can be
large and clean.
On the other hand, the stones discovered east of
Bemainty at a place called “Tananarivo Carrieres” and
later at “Milliard 1,” “Milliard 2” and other places in the
north (possibly as far as Zahamena National Park) are
in very high demand. The sapphires produced east of
Bemainty are mainly blue, varying from light to deep
blue. Most were milky of the “geuda” type and are in
high demand from Sri Lankan burners. Many stones,
however, are fine enough to be facetted without heat
treatment. Parti-coloured sapphires (locally called
polychromes) and pinkish-orange sapphires were also
︱March 2017
59
GEMSTONES
found in large sizes and fine qualities. According to all
the Sri Lankan merchants I met in Madagascar, that
new deposit produced in the last five months more
fine-quality blue and padparadscha-type sapphires
weighing over 20 carats than the entire production of
Madagascar in the last two decades.
This new sapphire production is clearly coming far
from secondary deposits. Miners are digging pits up
to 3 metres deep in order to collect potentially gem-
rich gravels for washing in the nearby stream using
either hand sieves as in the beginning of the rush or
increasingly, larger sieves, which are suitable to wash
gravels using a water pump and a hose.
Life at the mining sites is basic with some people living
in huts but most reside in makeshift tents under plastic
roofs. Comfort was minimal but people were smiling and
we saw no signs of any security issues. Bottled water, and
fresh and canned food were easily available but prices
were much higher than in Ambatondrazaka.
In Ambatondrazaka and Antananarivo, we saw
blue stones from the rush weighing up to 75 carats.
Fine, clean blue stones of over 100 carats and some
attractive pinkish-orange stones of more than 50
carats were reported. Most of the stones were milky
(geuda type) and reacted well to heat treatment, while
others were silky. Some star stones were also found.
Many stones were parti-coloured blue and orange,
and several fine padparadscha-type stones were
also found. If the new material is generally included,
many stones are fine enough and clean enough to be
facetted without heat treatment.
Search for sapphires
As rubies and sapphires have been discovered
fairly regularly in this jungle-covered region since
2000, a new sapphire discovery in that area was not
a huge surprise. The issue is that the region is part
of the “Ankeniheny-Zahamena-Mantadia Biodiversity
Conservation Corridor and Restoration Project,” which
consists of Ankeniheny, Zahamena and Mantadia
National Parks. The rush site is therefore a protected
area administered by “Conservation International” where
mining is illegal. So far, the authorities have not closed
the illegal mining site; the main issue being that this year
the rains were very late in Ambatondrazaka, a small
city known to be the rice basket of Madagascar. Rain
usually arrives in November, but since the beginning
of February, the area was still dry and thousands of
people who were usually busy working the paddy fields
were jobless and without resources. Most of them
found, with the new sapphire deposit, some welcome
income. Obviously, a year before the general election,
the Malagasy authorities are not showing the political
will to stop sapphire mining in Bemainty.
60 ︱March 2017
I expect mining activities to slow down with the
rainy season. Since 2000 and the discoveries near
Andilamena, new discoveries usually occur in the
area nearly every two or three years. In the case of
Didy (2012), Zahamena (2015) and now Bemainty,
some very fine stones were found. It seems that a
major ruby and sapphire deposit is hidden under the
forest-covered areas of northeast Madagascar and it
is likely that Ambatondrazaka could emerge as a major
sapphire trading centre in the future. Nevertheless,
the issue for the trade is that most of this deposit is
located in a protected area where mining is illegal. It
is to be expected that in the near future, people in
charge of conservation and the gem industry will find a
win-win type of solution to deal with this discovery. JNA
About the writer: Vincent Pardieu (BSc,
GGA, GG) was a tour guide before becoming a
gemmologist. He studied gemmology in Burma
(GGA) and at GIA Thailand in 2001. For the past
17 years, he combined his two passions: Studying
gemstones and travelling to gem-mining areas
around the world. In 2004, he became the director
of the AIGS Gemological Laboratory in Thailand
where he worked on ruby treatments like lead
glass treatment and started a field gemmology
programme. For two years (2007-2008), he
joined the Gübelin Gem Lab in Switzerland as a
gemmologist specialising in the origin determination
of gemstones. He then returned to Thailand in
December 2008 to create for the GIA Laboratory a
“Field Gemology” department. He led for the GIA 85
successful field expeditions to gemstone-producing
areas in Southeast Asia, Central Asia, East Africa
and Australia.
In January 2017, he left the GIA to start a
new career as a consultant and independent
researcher. His recent reports have been published
on his website, www.fieldgemology.org, and on
www.giathai.net and www.gia.edu.
Independent field
gemmologist Vincent Pardieu.
Photo credit: Vincent Pardieu
DIAMONDS

GJEPC continues
to strengthen consumer confidence in
natural diamond sector

T
he Gem & Jewellery
Export Promotion
Council (GJEPC)
continues to step up efforts to
boost consumer confidence
in the natural diamond trade.
Praveenshankar Pandya,
chairman of the Gem &
Jewellery Export Promotion
Council (GJEPC), said
the council has pushed
for the development and
deployment of reasonably
priced diamond-screening
equipment and installation of
shared facilities for small-sized WFDB President Ernest Blom, centre, and
Manoj Dwivedi, joint secretary of India’s
diamond companies in India.
Union Ministry of Commerce, fourth from
“We needed something
left, inaugurate Signature IIJS 2017 and the
compact and affordable, and fourth edition of the India Gem & Jewellery
the Gemmological Institute of Machinery Expo. Looking on are GJEPC
India (GII) has developed the officials Praveenshankar Pandya, second
Quick Check. We gave them from left, and Saunak Parikh, third from left
the task to develop such a
machine, and we’re so happy that within a short period of one year,
they came out with this equipment,” Pandya said in a media briefing
held on the sidelines of Signature IIJS (India International Jewellery
Show) in Mumbai. “Now, every diamond parcel at the Bharat Diamond
Bourse (BDB) is checked. We are going in the right direction.”

From left: Manoj Dwivedi, joint secretary of India’s Union Ministry of Commerce;
GJEPC Chairman Praveenshankar Pandya; WFDB President Ernest Blom and Saunak
Parikh, GJEPC’s convener for Exhibitions – National

62 ︱March 2017

According to GII, the Q-CHK++ Instrument was
co-developed with Arotek Scientific Instruments Pvt
Ltd. The machine, the third in the series of Q-CHK
after its launch in July 2016, can detect synthetic
diamonds in star and melee sizes and even stones set
in jewellery, the institute said.
Market transparency
GJEPC has likewise initiated the formation of the
Natural Diamond Monitoring Committee (NDMC),
which was established in partnership with other
Indian trade organisations a few years ago. To date,
the committee has hosted seminars and awareness
programmes, and has set up testing and detection
centres in Mumbai and Surat as part of its drive
against the undisclosed mixing of synthetics in parcels
of natural, mined diamonds.
The council has also commissioned a follow-up
study on the synthetic diamond industry, Pandya said.
“It is an ongoing process; it’s not a one-time
thing,” he said, adding that GJEPC has reappointed a
consulting company to continue the study. “I am going
to continue this.”
Synthetic diamonds have a place in the market,
said Pandya. “It has to create its own market space,”
he said.
Recently, Ernest Blom, president of the World
Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), said
the WFDB accepts that synthetic diamonds are a
legitimate niche product and there is a place for them.
However, he said there would be zero-tolerance for
people mixing undisclosed synthetics into parcels of
natural, mined diamonds.
“Our biggest concern is that they may not be
disclosed as synthetics and we need to work with
governments and law enforcement agencies to ensure
that transgressors are brought to justice. We will
have them expelled from the WFDB if they are found
to have contravened our charter on synthetics and
they will not be able to work in any of the WFDB’s 30
bourses across the world.
“We have been actively promoting the idea that
consumers buy from a reputable retailer who is a
recognised trade body member. If there is then a
problem, the customer has redress,” Blom said.
Diamantaires are now certifying diamonds of 20
points compared with 0.50 carat stones and larger in
the past, he added. “As a result, we have a certain
level of comfort regarding diamonds of 20 points
and up but the problem is with smaller stones and
melee. Machines have been developed that can
identify melee, so here, too, we are starting to feel
more comfortable that smaller synthetics can also be
detected,” said Blom.
DIAMONDS
GJEPC Chairman Praveenshankar Pandya, left, and Sanjay Shah,
convener of GJEPC’s Diamond Panel
Positive outlook
GJEPC has also been working closely with the
Diamond Producers Association and De Beers in
developing a category-based marketing campaign,
which aims to boost the demand for diamonds,
especially among millennial consumers.
Meanwhile, India’s gemstone and jewellery sector
is more upbeat about its business prospects this
year. “We are receiving orders from America, which is
the biggest market right now, and one that we cover
fully well. China is back to normal,” Pandya said.
“What happened [in 2015] was that a huge number
of shops suddenly mushroomed all over China, and
their goods sat on the shelves for a longer period of
time. When they realised that there was not much
of a business, they had to contract their number of
shops. The goods were then redistributed among the
remaining shops, which meant that they didn’t need to
buy additional inventory in one or two years. I think we
have overcome that phase, and more recently, I am
seeing a flow of orders.”
GJEPC has also been promoting India’s gemstone
and jewellery exports by organising pavilions at
international fairs. At the recently concluded twin
shows in Hong Kong – the Diamond, Gem & Pearl
Show, and the Jewellery Show – the council hand-
picked companies that were representative of India’s
capabilities in terms of best diamond cuts and
jewellery design.
“Hong Kong is the second-largest buyer of Indian
gemstones and jewellery in the world and therefore,
participation in this platform is imperative,” Pandya said.
India’s gemstone and jewellery exports totalled
$39 billion for the April 2015 – March 2016 period,
$11 billion of which was attributed to Hong Kong
exports. Cut and polished diamond exports accounted
for $7.85 billion, followed by gold jewellery at $1.27
billion. Coloured gemstones recorded exports worth
$225.61 million, according to the council. JNA
︱March 2017
63
DIAMONDS
Captivating
fancy colour diamonds
L
eibish & Co is celebrating
the beauty of fancy colour
diamonds in its latest
collections.
Presented at the recently
concluded Hong Kong International
Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, the
collections included the diamond dealer’s prized
Argyle Collection, which has just over 100 loose
diamonds and 12 Argyle diamond jewellery pieces.
This is highlighted by three gorgeous Argyle Pink
Tender Diamonds, namely, Lot 63, a 0.71-carat
fancy intense pink diamond in emerald shape and
of IF clarity; Lot 47, a 0.75-carat fancy intense pink
diamond in oval shape and of SI2 clarity; and Lot 55,
a 0.64-carat fancy intense pink diamond in heart
shape and of SI2 clarity.
Leibish & Co’s IF Collection featured more
than 50 loose diamonds, including a 5.87-
carat fancy yellow, flawless, EX EX cushion-
cut diamond; a 2.24-carat fancy vivid yellow
diamond in round shape and of IF clarity; a 5.02-
carat fancy intense yellow diamond in cushion
shape and of IF clarity; and a 4.52-carat fancy light
pink diamond in radiant shape and of IF clarity.
The fancy colour diamond expert also has more
than 80 loose diamonds in its Vivid Collection.
Some of the notable stones are a 1.25-carat
cushion-shaped fancy vivid orange diamond
of SI2 clarity; a 0.51-carat fancy vivid blue
diamond in lozenge shape and of VVS2
clarity; and a 5.09-carat fancy vivid yellow
diamond in radiant shape and of VS2 clarity.
Leibish & Co’s Extraordinary Jewellery has
more than 750 products, highlighted by a 1.33-carat
64 ︱March 2017
extraordinary fancy greyish blue and pink diamond
dress ring; a 3.02-carat fancy light greenish blue
and pink diamond dress ring; and a 3.04-carat fancy
intense yellow-green of IF clarity, and pink diamond
dress ring.
“The outlook for strong colours in diamonds and
precious stones is healthy,” Leibish chief diamond
buyer Shmulik Polnauer said in an earlier interview.
Recently, the company also diversified its product
mix with the launch of a whole line of jewellery with
precious stones: Emeralds, rubies and sapphires.
“We have seen a lot of interest in these stones
and plan to expand the fine gemstone collections
over the next few months,” Polnauer said.
“We have also begun offering six-
month, interest-free, credit card
payments through PayPal to
users in the US.”
US private buyers make
up Leibish’s major online
customer base. Its B2B
business, however, is still
largely fuelled by Asia-based
companies. JNA
From top: Leibish Argyle Pink Tender
Diamonds. From left: Lot 47, a 0.75-carat fancy
intense pink diamond in oval shape and of SI2
clarity; Lot 63, a 0.71-carat fancy intense pink
diamond in emerald shape and of IF clarity;
and Lot 55, a 0.64-carat fancy intense pink
diamond in heart shape and of SI2 clarity; a
1.25-carat fancy vivid orange diamond from
Leibish; and some of Leibish’s exceptional
fancy colour diamond jewellery pieces

De Beers counts on
US demand to fuel growth in 2017
T
he De Beers Group of
Companies is banking on
stable demand from the
US to drive growth in the global
diamond industry in 2017.
A preliminary report by Anglo
American, which owns 85 percent
of De Beers, revealed that the
diamond miner raked in total
revenues of $6.1 billion in 2016, up
30 percent from $4.7 billion in 2015.
The increase was attributed to
higher rough diamond sales, which
rose 37 percent to $5.6 billion.
This, in turn, was attributable to a
50 percent increase in consolidated
sales volumes to 30 million carats
from 19.9 million carats in 2015.
“Macro-economic conditions
underpinning consumer demand
for diamonds remain broadly
stable in aggregate, with the US
expected to continue to be the main
driver of global growth in 2017,”
noted the company. “The extent
of global growth will, however,
be dependent upon a number
Top-quality 62-carat diamond unearthed in new area at Lulo
L
ucapa Diamond Co Ltd
recently recovered a large
premium-value diamond
62-carat Type IIA rough from a new mining
block at Lulo
of macro-economic factors,
including the new administration
in the US, the strength of the
US dollar impacting consumer
demand, economic performance
in China, the effects of Indian
demonetisation and sentiment
following the main US and
Chinese New Year retail season.”
With midstream stocks having
returned to more typical levels in
2016, rough diamond demand is
expected to normalise in 2017,
reflecting underlying consumer and
retail demand, added De Beers.
While producers continue
destocking, forecast diamond
production for 2017 is expected
to be in the range of 31 to 33
million carats, subject to trading
conditions.
Global markets
According to the company,
sustained growth in diamond
jewellery demand in the US and
marginally positive growth for
from a new alluvial mining area
at the Lulo Diamond Project in
Angola.
The 62-carat Type IIA diamond
was recovered from new mining
block 25, adjacent to the prolific
mining block 8 at Lulo, according
to Stephen Wetherall, managing
director of Lucapa.
The rough is the second
large diamond to be recovered
from a new mining area at Lulo in
February alone, providing further
evidence of the potential of the
entire stretch of the Cacuilo River
DIAMONDS
Diamond ring © De Beers
the full year in China contrasted
with weakening demand in other
main diamond markets. In India,
a month-long jewellers’ strike
in March and the government’s
surprise demonetisation programme
which started in November, had a
considerable negative impact on
demand. For the full year, global
consumer demand, in US dollars,
is estimated to be in line with 2015.
Additional marketing in the US,
China, India and Japan in the final
quarter of the year, the main selling
season, had a positive impact. JNA
within the Lulo concession to
host large and high-value
diamonds.
This recovery follows the
unearthing of a 227-carat Type IIA
D-colour diamond from the new
mining block 28. The 227-carat
gem, which is Angola’s second-
biggest diamond on record,
was included in the sale of Lulo
diamonds in early March 2017.
The 62-carat diamond from
mining block 25 will be included
in the following sale, Lucapa
announced. JNA
︱March 2017
65
DIAMONDS
Dominion
reports strong production in Ekati
D
iamond production at
the Ekati Diamond Mine
during the fourth fiscal
quarter 2017 (November through
January) reached a record 2.3
million carats, up from 1.2 million
carats during the same period last
year, data from Dominion Diamond
Corporation showed.
Carat production increased
by 93 percent compared to the
same period in the previous year
due to the positive impact of the
processing of a large proportion of
high-grade Misery ore.
“During fiscal year 2018, the
company plans to produce 6.3 to 7
million carats from the processing of
3.7 to 4 million tonnes, compared
to 5.2 million carats from the
processing of 2.9 million tonnes in
fiscal year 2017,” the miner noted.
Dominion Diamond said it
expects to process primarily
high-value ore from the Koala
Lucara achieves record diamond sales in 2016
L
ucara Diamond Corporation
said its 2016 revenues
reached $295.5 million or
$824 per carat, up from $223.8
million and $593 per carat in the
same period a year ago.
Earnings before interest, tax,
depreciation and amortisation was
$185.4 million compared to $133.9
million in 2015.
William Lamb, president and
CEO of Lucara, commented,
“The company achieved record
sales in 2016. We demonstrated
our commitment to deliver
consistent and sustainable value
to our shareholders as well as
the strength of our cash flow
generation by paying a special
66 ︱March 2017
underground and Misery Main
pipes during the first quarter of fiscal
2018, with an increased proportion
of ore from the Pigeon and Lynx
pipes during the remainder of the
fiscal year.
The company also recorded a
drop in sales to $129.9 million from
the sale of 1.4 million carats during
the period in review, due primarily to
a reduction in the goods available
for sale following the process plant
fire at the Ekati Diamond Mine.
According to Dominion
Diamond, the global market
ended the year on a positive
note despite the divergence
between the resilient market for
larger, better goods and the more
challenging situation for smaller,
cheaper goods. The Christmas
season in the US failed to meet
market expectations, but this was
balanced out by renewed retail
activity over the Chinese New Year,
dividend during the year, while
continuing to advance growth
opportunities in Botswana.”
Lamb continued: “We remain
focused on operating performance
at the Karowe mine and are well-
positioned to continue to drive
operating efficiencies and safe
productivity in partnership with
our new mining contractor. Our
capital projects for enhanced
diamond recovery are on target to
be completed in 2017, ensuring
maximum diamond recoveries
from the high-value south lobe.
We also remain excited with our
work on resource expansion at
the Karowe mine through our
deep drilling programme and our
Aerial view of the Ekati Diamond Mine
resulting in an anticipated rise in
polished demand from China in the
first quarter of 2017.
The Indian retail market has
started to recover from the
jewellers’ strike in the middle
of the year and the impact of
demonetisation of the Indian rupee
towards year-end. The latter is
expected to continue to have a
dampening effect on the Indian
retail jewellery market in the short
term, with demand expected to
return to normal in this sector
by the fall of 2017. Much of the
manufacturing sector that focuses
on lower-price rough diamonds
was brought to a standstill by the
demonetisation. However, the
segment of the manufacturing
sector that focuses on higher-
priced rough diamonds, and
produces primarily for the export
market, has been less disrupted,
noted the diamond miner. JNA
advanced exploration programme
in Botswana.”
New mine contractor,
Moolman Mining Botswana Pty
Ltd, a subsidiary of Aveng Mining,
commenced mobilisation to the
Karowe mine in February. Since
December 2016, during the period
of transition to Aveng Moolmans,
Karowe has processed ore from
stockpile resulting in lower than
forecast ore and waste mined for
the year.
Ore processed for the year was
in excess of forecast at 2.6 million
tonnes with diamond recoveries
totalling 353,974 carats which was
in line with forecast, according to
Lucara. JNA