PATTERNMAKING
UNDERWEAR DESIGN
Kristina Shin, Ph.D. PATTERNMAKING
FOR
NDERWEAR DESIGN
Kristina Shin
Paterna for Under Design mo.
Copia © Norina in,
‘Aegis rere ue ntemational se Pat-Anacan Copright Conuerbor. No part ofthis publication ra
beepeedeces tore reel rien of anwmitied nar loom or by any mean, lector or mecnanicl
yPemccreine recoringerecherwsr, without the exes res pesmacite of re
Menace epnel sm
am usnsitiao
Cerri]
Priunin ne Une ates ot Ar Preface
pdenwes Des Ts book stared 25 2 simole
= lee waking guicie suitable.
Hae pleted i ee nt a COTE OO
ices eee ihe tetruntion & matched with superb ilustrations,
Teen acles Thsbaok niaduces commen
oc students, teachers and
sah sediniedenry andor the athor’s Own innovative
miternmaking concept. This new method
reste variousbra designs from scratch with
Se etod,secend wg te
represents wth nice parternmaling il 510.
‘commerc NC guBEY
Peperptia for Uterus Desert lees cere eves of underwear, tenor ed
Fe pecs bead oi farses A, Fara, 2, Ungere, 20 3. sieepew/ioures
sa A acrnaat and a eostracion of gee ond espn ougeret 6 F*, ‘
; t cup) in order to create an termediate block fora taveer centre
= ba 20 doing, the it wil be guaranteed, The istered
.
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3
Z
a
Lace photo erect: Courtesy of ‘Desselles *
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(eur)
se treacnsegh 3 2 ortne bic)
‘Step wo: Band draing Figure 2)
2: Maik ©, 3; .3em for tie midpoint height of he cradle
4. awa guideline coating toe pct Band parle to the wie
{ark 1711 Sem) dow from point Bon the guider
5, Mick, cape down 12/ (422m) fom point ©
step three: and drafting (cor
i tonnest A, Dand D, with
7 connett Eand F with 3 cur
Mark H, equate aut /.(1 90
2'USem) paralle!
hock ant eve tape) from poi
F i
i
i
i
-
Sep fie U- bac aratingfeont) nore 5)
Ta, Conet land ormpit winh.a curved fine
{12 Connect tand Howth a curved ine:
IN,
Paguee S
step ste Guide pattern (Figure 6-10)
$3, beott the lower cont eiee
ale ta. (Foow:
(Follow steps 67 forthe basie bra)
1g the ve elning sean be
ip [oining dear tine and trace, sasting tram the
14 Wolk th
F-and eerie ts the hock
Faues.
Figure 10 i
:
i
i
:
i
block ereation (Figure 11-14)
rial (¥} puitelines
TUsem) parallel to
Tree so ona wath te rors point of and ¥ an atc
step seven: Intermediate &uP!
5. Draw hoeleontl (2) ra we
416. rave two vertieal euideines
17. Match the 6 af guide pater?
the cenkre withthe 2 (Scam) guidelines
18 Copy the shane:
gee it
15. Repeat 17 and LB fr the otter hall
20, Mark 8, square up 1¥/x Fiem)* from the
21. Gonesect A and Binith a stzaight line and extend.
22. Draw a line 24, (écm)* parallel to, and mark C, a crossieg post with
sehen acer
suup eight: Intermediate block [Figure 15-17)
2B.
‘annect € with the end of the cupline with 24. Square o
seved line
{c(omm)at tne one
25, Reshape the side curve
\ /
wy j
f
Note: This intermediate block can be used #53 single O31
c.euP.
|
}
postion
of each dartleg aod reshape the dart legs
gure 17 splot upper and lower Cup (Pure 19
srethe upper cup ancotate the rest af
side lower ep,
ravon foe Tug (Figure a) SP HON
we bik tage 13) and 27.560 rca
1 tothe ne the rant lower 08
“step nina: prepa
26) pe the interme
draw a tee which is pare
‘whit patting the BP
ger 18
igure 24)
ic:
‘step twelve: New centre
Step deven: Lower cup volume [Figure 20)
32. Move the upper cup and rotate tl
28 Divide line AB by & and line AC by 3.
28, Mari D, square out /{9mm) from,
cone qurter af AB.
30. Mark E, square out "fy {Aram from
‘ne third of AC
[HL Connect 8/0, 4, and Cwith s ved line
af shown inthe Figure 21 below,
Figure 21
saep thirteen: Slt &.cup volume (Figuee 228,23)
jut mm from the one third ofthe centre bee
33, Sauer
Sees
Fae 23
Step fiteen: Neckline variation (Figure 25)
step fourteen: Upper cup volume
ine) from the centre.
35,54 (Sem) fran the com
236, Batch the beng
ote :Thiss-optional for a cut-and-sewn
a
/|
/| i
i
3
3
2
Shp se sve (ome Crete) i
Se eles protec he cnt fen: 2150] 944 (102cm) rtspecy SE
37. Mark s aed 1 enesng points a he cu joing S80 Ee. ic 3 oe
Br rere tive veicalguceanes poate the cere, s12-2cm™) end Va (Acm) respertee =
29, Mark U aed V, erossing pots at the Hem Pe
30, Conmect 5, Vand 7,V with sient es ‘Stop eight: Matching and matching notches [Figure 8)
33. the patter and match the seam alrance : '
aera / 4.2 The all-in-one pattern
34. fleshape the comer of sean when matching | rs
/
ii
ii
$t8p ne The complete pate pices Fg 9)
235, Add patter iormacoa eee! ‘step one: Cradle (Figure 1)
1 Draft the band pattern |. step tira: Guidelines (Figure 2)
(Follow steps 1-2 fo the Basic bra)
3: a vertical
2 guideling atthe midpoint of line AAs
pe = BY/(15.Semn}
co = 6115.20)
E= ViclAAcrs}
Figure t
|
i
4
: Step three: Underarm {F
A MarkG square up2\Sem) from A
5, Mark, square dawn (6mm) from the midpe
6. Cannect FH. Guwith a curved line.
Figure
seep fours Front leg and back leg (Figure 5)
ar
square dawn 3'/; (8.2m) from point
Mark J, quae out 1% (3erm) rom paint
Mark X, 11/°(3.Sem) Irom the wertéeal guideline
onthe
10. Mati
vertic
ip level
ML Mark 23/01 7em) up from paint
12. Mark M4, 1').(2-2cmn} up free point D and
square out 2)/(7er).
13, Mark O, 1413.Sem) from paint 0.
18, Mark F,1'0'(8ee) from point E soc re: Front gan ck fat) CEE )
18 rr eatin) com werent
Be tse) kom te mont of Be FL
16 Mark R, sau
aaa scsaase et fiero ee MOS oftine LS,
ack 7 sqare out re (rom the ce third of fine ON,
east U unre otf ren ror te eet ‘of ine UP,
paper
31. Connect L 5, M 39d M, T, Owe oa
Be eeeciG U. oahatinnet Hagia
aa renner Ned MWh carved ie .
{
a
1
q
4
2
sig ove: roa ag nbc ie ant)
sac sre et tl 30) re
‘yg. ark R squate out
$7. Mark 5, square cut"
$a a snr out lst a
19 mark are ou fs] amie me
third of ine ON.
paint of ine UP.
sere eee
one cry 1 Step seven: Panel deaking for sie 1(Fieure =)
24, Mark v, P(Semn} aut for pout
25, bark Wi, 31/7 cm) out fram post Cy
26 Sark X and square out Ys {1-30m) each om
the vertical guideline
37 Mark Z, square out 'Y/(1.2em) from,
28, Divide the line GB by 2 31,Connent F
i 32, Create a back con
29. Divide the line BC by 2 a
:
£
a
=
:
i
i
535: Draw a horizontal line for pore (stabser)
‘Note: 24 |Gem) ts used tor the gore height i
j
step nine: The compete peter peers of tye
41. hdd seam alloweace and pattern intonation
Nylon lycra
(Favre 101
Powernet
Sh
“igure 10
suep ten: Pomel drafting for style 2 (Figure 11)
‘Ac 3(7.Secrn) fromm the exftre front
ng seam.
em] ftorn point 8.
a0 Mark 0,414 (1.Ler) from the centre f
fea the hip lev
441 ark, 2% (5 2em) frorn the acme
2. Mark 47¢(10.8c1) from paint &
43. Mark’, 4 (2-dem} from point F
44 ack H, 4 (14cm) from the centre Batk
‘mn the wast level
45, Mark, the midpoiet of iH
“46. Mark, the midpoint of
SAT. mek 246 T5-em) from
tein pecs m2 Ste dover Panel dag for sre 2 cont) (ms 7) i
SLRS OandA,cOnhcaxved int’: 5 Mark 0, 2'/(7e) from point Dy
eo aah a ee coe
Se ee eco
pote: (ecm és sed fot the nore beg
|
canna
Nylon tyera
Cotton lining
Fred jqure 148 15) i
step thirteen: Ovtet cup define (FaUEISETST pga. 1)2 2em) oUt fam pon A
55, Draft lower and UPBeE Oo? i, c(h Sem out from
gh en a 58. Mark D, #/i{2.3em) aut f point
era owe SS Cnet Cand D with 3 ute ie,
Figuee 15
step fourteer: The complete c
bn. Add seam allowance: and p
pattern pieces (Figure 16)
em inftrmation,
Inner Cup (taminated foam)
Figure 16 sl
i
1
a
4.3 The waspie pattern
ete corset worn to reales a aia wast aso. coed waist cicher
See ts constracon meted f Sra to thst ofa corset
a ar artr be or "wasple ssipender be’. Soéve are
S itroducedin this lessons the wearer whe
Awasple 6
belt’, waapie corset”
cftee mace with garters which is Cal
fromm oves underelothes as outerwear. The War
bea sine U5348/758,
step one: Preparation (Figure t)
1. Ora aud
Ab = 244 (32AEm)
Ace AD = 5 (1
obs aft (89cm)
e= Ya (im)
Fire 1 Step two: Proparation (coe. Figuet 2)
T Drawa vertical padeine fom the rddpowt of fine AB Seep thee: High-waist tin (Figure 3)
§ connect GG and G, € wih straight nes,
4. Mark 6, square up (19.2cm) am the verbal pukdeine
(3mm) from ne quar
a ine C6,
44 Mark Hi square down 224; (6-4cmi} ca the vertical guideline
(3mm) from the me
he midpoint of fine GE:
G1, Evwith curver
Faure ;
i
:
|
:
step four: Hee (gure 4)
4, Connect D and W witha straight line
40: Mark K, square aut "| Lem} from
‘one third of line DF
12. Connect 0, KH weth acurved ine
12, Draw vertical lino, square out 3°47.6
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