Professional Documents
Culture Documents
History:
The origin of the Indian textiles is thought to be the Indus Valley civilization, situated in
modern Pakistan, where people used homespun cotton to weave garments. Historically, the
Indus valley region engaged in significant trade with the rest of the world. The silk from the
region, for example, is known to have been popular in Rome, Egypt, Britain, and Indonesia.
Significance:
Textile Sector of Pakistan is the heart and soul of this nation since Independence. It is the
largest Manufacturing Industry in Pakistan. Export of $3.5 billion (6.5% of total exported
cotton in world) in 2017-2018. Pakistan is the 8th largest exporter of textile commodities in
Asia. Contribution in economy is equal to approx. 8.5%of total GDP. Textile Sector employs
about 45% of the total Labor force in the country. In the year 2017-18 Exports of textile
sector grew by $4.4 billion. Pakistan is also 3rd largest consumer of Cotton in the World.
Total Textile mills are 464 in Pakistan out of which 5% are on the PSX .Textile has a total
processing capacity of 5.2 billion square meters. International brands working in Pakistan
with local textile mills are namely; H&M, Levis, Nike, Adidas, Puma, Target etc. Textile
businesses are concentrated in Karachi with a share of 38% and 18% in Faisalabad. Out of
464, 316 textile units in Punjab, 116 in Sindh. Pakistan’s exports are under threat mainly
from regional competitors because the governments of these countries support their textile
industry a lot as compared to Pakistan’s government. Rs.185 million has been approved in
Pakistan for the Export Development Fund for the development of the textile sector. The
textile industry provides 40% of the bank credit in Pakistan.
In the 1950s, textile manufacturing emerged as a central part of Pakistan's industrialization,
shortly following independence from the British rule in the South Asia. In 1974, the Pakistan
government established the Cotton Export Corporation of Pakistan (CEC). The CEC served as
a barrier to private manufacturers from participating in international trade. However, in the
late 1980s, the role of the CEC diminished and by 1988-89, private manufacturers were able
to buy cotton from ginners and sell in both domestic and foreign markets. Between 1947
and 2000, the number of textile mills in Pakistan increased from 3 to 600. In the same time
period, spindles increased from 177,000 to 805 million.
There are 423 textile industries working in the country. Pakistan has a supply base for
almost all man-made and natural yarns and fabrics, including cotton, rayon and others. This
abundance of raw material is a big advantage for Pakistan due to its beneficial impact on
cost and operational lead time.
Innovation and Advancements in Textile Sector
Innovation and competitiveness are considered to be the backbone of private sector led
economic growth and its sustainability. However, in Pakistan, very little is known about the
nature and the extent of innovation as well as its determinants and obstacles. In the
absence of such evidence, policies can be misdirected and ineffective. In this pilot study, we
propose to conduct a survey of textile manufacturers of Pakistan to determine the nature
and extent of innovation in this key export sector.
The trend in Indian spinning mills is now to replace manual bale opener with automatic
bale opener and carding and draw frames have also gone through an evolution in the
last one decade. So, what are the changes that have happened in these pre-spinning
departments?
The conventional short staple spinning system involves different machines to convert raw
cotton to quality yarn. The quality of a yarn is judged by many parameters, like evenness,
count CV%, strength, imperfections, yarn appearance, etc. Now-a-days, various
parameters relating to comfort like yarn water absorbency, yarn surface friction, etc, are
also given importance. Thus, in short staple spinning system, to produce yarn of
acceptable quality, the raw material has to be processed through a sequence of machine.
Developments in these machines are carried out to enhance yarn quality. The machine
manufacturers are coming out with different models of the machines featuring different
modification/innovations, which enhance quality.
Different categories of developments:
1. Minor modifications.
3. Major modifications.
Minor modifications are the simple alteration of the previous version/model of the
machine that has nothing to do much with the quality or production/speed of the
machine. So these modifications are aimed at just giving the customers a new look to the
machine. Second type of modification relates with enhancement in production/speed or
with the online quality/production monitoring. Major modifications are really significant
modifications, which are helpful in improving the product quality.
There are the changes that have been brought in the machine to improve the product
quality not only on the same machine but also at subsequent machines. As so far machine
manufacturers are concerned, they are providing machines with all the above stated
categories, but publicized the machines under the category of major developments though
these developments may be coming under first two categories. These developments will
be analyzed in the subsequent section.
Developments in blowroom:
Main objective of the blowroom is opening and cleaning of the material without over-
stressing or damaging the fibers. The opening means to increase the specific volume (cc/g)
of the feed material and is adjudged from the tuft size whereas cleaning means to remove
impurities. The tuft size of 2 - 3 mg is considered to be optimum, but as low as 0.1 mg is
achievable. The visual appearance of the waste extracted at different stages of opening and
cleaning. Increase in the opening/cleaning intensity increases waste removal, but also leads
to fiber damage, fiber loss and increase in neps level. Hence it is very important to find out
optimum opening/cleaning. The modern developments in blowroom will be discussed in the
subsequent sections.
1. Difference between types of plucking roller of automatic bale opener:
The trend in Pakistan spinning mills is now to replace manual bale opener to automatic bale
opener. The automatic bale opener gives smaller tuft size thus results in better opening and
cleaning efficiency of the subsequent machines]. The manual bale opening process relies
more on the sincerity and efficacy of the worker, and has more variation in the tuft size fed
to the bale opener.
Rieter Automatic Bale Opener (UNIfloc A 11):
Rieter UNIfloc A 11 uses single plucking roller, called as take-off roller. The take-off roller
along with narrow grid results in small tufts size]. The same roller can be used for processing
cotton as well as man-made fibers. The roller teeth can also be replaced individually. The
automatic bale opener regularly measures the profile of the lay down material for gradual
level out the bales.
Trützschler Automatic Bale Opener:
Trützschler's BLENDOMAT BO-A is fitted with two plucking rollers rotating in opposite
direction. But at any given time, only one plucking roller is working while other is raised
according to the travel direction of the machine. Thus, direction reversal of the plucking
roller and, hence wear-intensive braking and acceleration after every passage of the bales is
avoided. The plucking roller strips off the tufts by penetrating into the bale surface while the
three supporting rollers give a firm grip over the bales]. This is what they call 'Penetration
inversion mechanism', which ensures gentle fiber removal and gives good opening. It can
process three different cotton/blend lots simultaneously that can be fed into three separate
cleaning lines.
The trend of using mote knife with an open slot along suction was initially incorporated on
carding in the pre-carding and post-carding zones. Recently, the same principle was
adopted by Trützschler on cleaning machines in blowroom. Such a cleaning system consists
of deflector blade, mote knife and suction hood. Trash particles released due to centrifugal
forces are separated at the knives and are continuously taken away by suction keeping the
hood clean permanently. The deflector blade setting depends upon the type of cotton
processing.
When processing clean cottons or for low degree of cleaning, deflector blades can be kept
almost closed, but fully opened for high trashy cotton and/or high degree of cleaning. The
blade adjustment can be made manually or via, motor. It also gives trouble free processing
of sticky cottons as such cotton otherwise sticks to the grid bars. The removal of dust by
suction results into good running behavior in OE and ring spinning and gives better yarn
quality.
The trend of using multiple beaters/cleaners in tandem on the same machine has been
introduced by Trützschler. The machine has the combination of clamped and unclamped
feeding of the material to the beaters. The initial feeding of the material to the first beater is
clamped through the feed rollers, thus giving intensive beating. Subsequently, material is
transferred to other beaters in web form in unclamped manner, thus giving gentle cleaning
action.
Rieter UNImix blending machine claims to have random distribution of the tufts to the 8
mixing chambers and then the fiber blending takes place at three different points within the
UNImix. This technology has been termed as a '3-point mixing process'. The first stage is a
controlled time offset of the tuft layers in the mixing chambers by 90° deflection of the tufts
in the tuft storage. The second mixing point comprises a spiked feed lattice, which picks
small tufts at random out of the layers of the 8 mixing chambers and transports them to the
next mixing point. The third blending level is achieved by mixing of the fine tufts in the active
mixing chamber above the spiked feed lattice. This results in constant homogeneity of the
fiber blend and constant yarn quality subsequently. Different raw materials can be
processed and required setting can be made via, the control panel during machine
operation.
The card is the heart of the spinning mill because if we see the
card sliver, it is just the magnified replica of the yarn. Quality
of yarn is directly related to the quality of card sliver. Thus the
modern developments, in the carding machine, are carried
out to produce better sliver. The following sections discuss
some of the modern developments in the carding machine.
2. Multiple Licker-in:
The concept of using three licker-in place of one is basically for better cleaning of the feed
material. Here the concept of clamped and unclamped feeding is used. The latest version of
Rieter card and Trützschler card feature with multiple licker-in system. The modular design
of Rieter C 60 card makes it possible to convert from 3 licker-in units to 1 unit.
The modern machines achieve production rates of 60 - 220 kg/h, compared with output of 5
- 15 kg/h in 1970. One of the many factors behind increase in the production, without
deteriorating quality, is increase in the carding zone area, particularly width of the card
and/or long carding section.
Use of Autoleveller:
To control card sliver count variations, count CV% and unevenness, modern cards are
equipped with autoleveller.
Incorrect break draft increases yarn U%, imperfections and neps whereas the total draft
does not affect yarn quality much. Break draft plays a very significant role in yarn quality,
thus must be set correctly.
Ring spinning:
Ring spinning occupies a unique position among the various spinning technologies because
of its versatility in producing stronger yarns from very fine to coarse counts from many
fibers. Ever since its inception, it has undergone developments at a snail’s pace. The
productivity of ring spinning has improved over the years, yet it is very much lower
compared to that of other spinning systems. The recent developments in ring spinning are
mainly concerned with improvements in drive systems, drafting arrangement, design
aspects of ring and traveller, machine monitoring, automation that includes roving stop
motion, roving bobbin transfer, doffing and cop transfer to winding. Other developments
that have taken place such as compact, solo, double-rove and core-sheath spinning, etc.,
have improved the versatility of ring spinning without change in the very basic concept of
ring spinning. Ring spinning celebrated its bicentenary in 2008 but, unlike blow-room,
carding and drawing machines, the basic shape of the ring-spinning machine has not
undergone much of a change. The capacity of ring-spinning machines has increased greatly,
now housing 1680 spindles. In addition, there have been developments in variants of ring
spinning such as ‘double-rove spinning’,
‘solo-spinning’, ‘core-sheath spinning’ catering for hard and soft cores, and ‘compact ring
spinning’. There have also been improvements in productivity and ease of operation,
process and product monitoring, auto-doffing, the linking of roving and winding machines
and in yarn quality.
The productivity of ring spinning has improved over the last two decades, but not at a
satisfactory pace, being several degrees lower than that of other spinning systems. The
productivity of ring spinning is limited by the sliding friction of the traveller that determines
its wear and yarn breaks, despite the incorporation of new designs of rings and travellers
made with new materials and finishes. No major breakthrough in productivity appears likely
in the near future because the traveller is a restrictive factor. A traveller that slides at high
speeds develops considerable frictional heat, and it is extremely difficult to dissipate this
heat in the short time available. Nevertheless, ring spinning is unique among the various
commercial spinning systems, setting the benchmark for yarn strength. Ring spinning is the
most flexible system with regard to the fibers which can be used and the number of yarn
counts that can be spun, which no other spinning system so far has been able to challenge.
If the twists are imparted, the fibers at the edges are either loosely bound or lost as a fly and
produce hairy yarn. The main purpose of the Compact Spinning is to eliminate spinning
triangle at front roller, technically speaking the 'weakest point' of the ring spinning. The
elimination of the spinning triangle results in permanent change of yarn structure, which
distinguishes the compact spinning from conventional ring spinning.
Com4Spin® of Rieter:
The abrasion resistance (Staff tester) of COM4® yarn is between 40% to 50% higher.
Hairiness (UT4) is 20-30% lower.
Hairiness (Zweigle S3 values) is much more sensitive and measured values are up to
60% lower by comparison.
Yarn strength is 8-15% higher.
Capacitive uniformity (UT4) also shows better results for yarns finer than 40s Ne.
Degree of sizing can be reduced thus reduces the cost of sizing and subsequent
desizing.
Suessen Elite® Compact Spinning
Higher work capacity by 30% (max).
Higher yarn strength (Figure 12a) by 20% (max).
Better elongation (Figure 12b) by 20%.
Lower hairiness (Figure 12c) by 85% (max) Zweigle S3.
Better yarn evenness.
Lower imperfection value (IPI).
CompACT3 by Zinser
The UT4 hairiness for carded cotton CompACT3 yarn is 20% lower as compared to
conventional ring spinning. The S3 hairiness value according to Zweigle reduced by 93%
(max).
Yarn irregularities (Zellweger Uster) show improvements of 6% (max).
25% (max) lower IPI values (Zellweger Uster).
20% higher tenacity values compared to the values of conventionally spun yarns.
Productivity increase at the spinning machine is 10% (max) through increasing the
spinning speed and/or reducing the yarn twist.
Displacement of the spinning limit by 15% (max).
Toyota's compacting method
Magnetic Compact Spinning, as the name implies, is a compacting system that makes the
compact yarn with the use of magnetic compactor. The RoCoS compact spinning system,
developed by Hans Stahlecker of Rotorcraft Maschinenfabrik, Switzerland is incorporated
into LMW's Ring Spinning Frame.
Self-cleaning apron system:
Zinser CompACT3 is one such development of self-cleaning aprons. Reportedly (Oerlikon
Schlafhorst, 2008) this system gives more uniform and consistent yarn quality. Staff- and
time-intensive inspections for quality assurance purposes are therefore much reduced.
Plied yarn
Efforts to spin two-ply yarn directly on the ring spinning frame have been based on drafting
two fiber strands in parallel but separated a relatively large distance apart. The two fiber
strands are then combined immediately after passing the nip of the front rollers of the
drafting system at the insertion point (Figs 9.14, 9.15 and 9.16), where they are both twisted
in the same direction. This results in a plied or two-fold yarn with the same twist direction as
the individual constituent strands.
Friction Spinning:
Friction spinning has made substantial progress and established itself well in the medium-
and coarse-count sector. It has potential for high production speeds and twisting rates. The
spinning tension is very low and very high twisting rates are possible without the need to
rotate the friction roller at higher speeds. It stands unique in the production of a variety of
multicomponent yarns, which are preferred for technical textiles. The system is also more
versatile in handling all types of natural and synthetic fibers. Friction-spun yarns are not
normally used in the manufacture of conventional textiles, though they find some
applications, especially as pile yarns, as weft yarns, and in certain knitted goods, where bulk
and compressibility are desired. The hollow yarns may provide a new trend for DRE F-3
friction-spun yarns.
TECHNOLOGİCAL DEVELOPMENTS OF DREF SYSTEM
Dref-2 is one of the earliest friction spinning machines introduced in the market
somewhere around 1977 primarily for long staple fibers to produce coarser yarns was
exhibited in the year 1975 at ITMA exhibition. Dr Ernst Fehrer began work on the
development of the DREF 3 friction spinning system, which was first presented to the public
at the 1979 international textile machinery exhibition (ITMA'79) in Hanover. Dref-3 is a
development over of Dref-2 system for improving the quality of yarn, productivity and count
range came to the market in the year 1981, and this is a core-sheath type spinning
arrangement and produce component yarns which cannot be produce by other spinning
machines.
Dref 5 was developed by Schalafhorst, Suessen and Fehrer after Dref 3, but this spinning
system was not commercialized due to to various technical difficulties. In 1999 Dref 2000
was demonstrated. It has ‘S’ and ‘Z’ direction is possible without mechanical alterations to
the machine. And this machine also has dust extraction for secondary fibers and low energy
costs due to the use of only 1 fan for 12 spinning heads.
The latest innovation of spinning system is exhibited in the ITMA 2003, the first public
appearance of the DREF 3000 was made. Higher bobbin weights through 200 mm winding
traverse was used (fig.12). Apart from other dref types, in Dref 3000,the drafting unit can
handle all types of synthetic fibers.
Hollow spindle spinning:
Application of new materials for hollow spindle construction in order to reduce the
weight and to increase the amount of the wrapping component on the pirn.
Slow progress in further extending the field of application for hollow spindle yarns,
though this is expected to lead to better acceptance of fancy yarns than of wrap
yarns.
Developments of finishing treatments for improved appearance of the fabrics,
woven or knitted, made from straight wrap yarns.
Hollow spindle spinning has reached a position in its development that can hardly be
followed by further revolutionary changes. The main challenges of the method are related
to its efficiency, as in the case of the ring spinning method. However, potential
improvements to ring spinning are much more feasible than for hollow spindle spinning. The
main reason is that further increases in ring spindle speeds would have a major impact
owing to the worldwide acceptance of this technology compared with the hollow spindle
process.
Other developments:
The problems associated with air-jet spinning using two nozzles have been harsh and rigid
yarns, difficulty in spinning cotton fibers and poor yarn strength. The method of air-jet
spinning with a single nozzle developed by Murata can produce yarn at 400 m/min. The
problem of generating more wrapper fibers during spinning and consequently improving the
yarn strength has been tackled to a major extent by this new technology.
Development of open-end rotor spinning system:
In ring spinning drafting, twisting and winding of the yarn is carried out simultaneously. By
the end of 19th century process of ring spinning was fairly well perfected. Its output rate
was much than that of self-acting mule which was an intermittent process. Consequently,
the world textile industry made a major shift from mule to ring spinning in the first quarter
of the 20th century. The developments of ring frame were accelerated after its adoption as
a major system of yarn manufacturing. However, during mid of the twentieth century it was
realized that output rate of ring spinning frame cannot be increased because of inherent
limitations. It was concluded that it has reached a pinnacle of achievement!
The textile institutes, universities and machinery manufacturers accelerated research work
for development of new technologies, which did not suffer from the limitations of ring
spinning frame. The research work led to the development of some new technologies based
on the concept of performance of the processes of drafting, twisting and winding separately
and independently of each other so that following objects can be achieved: