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Tamara Bellwether's Easy and Sturdy Bookcase Plans
Tamara Bellwether's Easy and Sturdy Bookcase Plans
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Tamara Bellwether’s Easy and Sturdy Bookcase Plans
Most of my bookcases have been made from pine boards. Fancier bookcases can be made from furniture
grade plywood. Generally I use birch plywood which used to come in 8’ x 4’ x ¾” sheets for around
$40. That’s the least expensive furniture grade plywood you’ll find. Pine boards are easier to handle and can
be conveyed in any automobile ... not so with plywood. Don’t use Gorilla glue. Get a pint of Titebond II.
Pre‐fit all the pieces in case sanding or other adjustments are required. Everything should fit snugly. Number
all the parts so you can do the final assembly in the same order.
I glue the shelves into the side routs ... all six shelves at once ... and then clamp the whole assembly together
at once with pipe clamps. Glue should squeeze out from the joints. Wipe it up from time to time with a damp
sponge. Don’t worry too much if you miss some, you can remove it with a single edge razor or wood scraper
later. But you do want to get most of it when it’s fresh.
Don’t attach the top and back until the end. I use a rubber mallet to knock the assembly together and into
square. Use a square to check your work. Once it is clamped, I do one of three things.
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Tamara Bellwether’s Easy and Sturdy Bookcase Plans
1. I use power driven wood screws (the kind with the straight shanks) these are also called deck screws
and are 1.25” or 1.5” long. I pre‐drill holes through the sides from the outer side at each routed slot
and make a small countersunk indentation I can fill later either with a slice of a dowel end or with
plaster or putty if I’m going to paint the cabinet. 2 evenly spaced holes per slot suffice. Once
everything is clamped I drive the screws into the shelves. The advantage of the screws over my other
two methods is that they act just like clamps and really tighten up the cabinet.
2. I wait until everything is clamped then I drill holes for 3/8” x 1” dowels. I insert 2 dowels per routed
slot right into the shelf ends. The advantage of this is that there’s nothing but wood in the finished
piece.
3. I drive 1.5” finishing nails through the slots and into the shelves then countersink them a bit. The little
hole on the outside can be covered with wax. I like this because it’s quick and dirty and adds a bit of
support. I almost never use this method.
Note that a solid wood board, pine or otherwise that is sold as 10” by 1” by 10 feet is physically 9” by ¾” by 10
feet. I suggest you either buy boards that are 6 feet long or 10 feet long. You’ll get the most use of the wood
without waste. Get 10”x1” boards as I just described. Don’t buy them and let them sit around for a long time,
they’ll change shape. Buy them and use them right away. Inspect them before you buy them. Don’t get
cupped or warped boards ... flat, square and straight is what you want. It’s fine if they have knots, those
boards are cheaper than clear lumber. But you’re going to have shelves that will never wear out so you might
prefer clear lumber for looks. Pine is very light weight ... another great benefit.
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Tamara Bellwether’s Easy and Sturdy Bookcase Plans
Here’s a cutting list for your lumber:
Qty Description length width thickness
2 sides 68” 9” 0.75”
6 shelves 31” 9” 0.75”
1 top 32” 9” 0.75”
1 kickboard 30.5” 2.5” 0.75”
Make back panels from 1/8” to 3/16” plywood or hardboard and tack with brads or staple it on. It’s OK to use
more than one piece of plywood for this. You may want to use a little glue or caulk around the edges to seal
things up.
Set in the kickboard so it is recessed ¼” to ½” under the bottom shelf. Use glue. Tack with 1¼” brads or use
hot melt glue where it won’t show.
Nail the top in place with 1 ½” finishing nails or use either ¼” or 3/8” dowels.
Note: you may or may not know this but glue has zero effect on end grain ... that’s the wood at the very end
of a length of shelf or the wood on the edge of the routs. Glue works everywhere else but there. The glue you
put in the routs seals up the gaps. It’s the screws or dowels (with glue on them) that you used that actually
holds the shelves in the joints.
Don’t forget you will need to apply a finish. There’s shellac. There’s enamel. And for a natural wood look, gel‐
stain. Gel‐stain is good because it will stain pine evenly whereas most other stains won’t they just look
blotchy. There’s even a polyurethane/gel‐stain product to add a bit of color and a hard poly finish. Also,
Watco Danish oil is a really simple product to use for an elegant and natural finish applied with just a cloth.
Below are a some sample pictures. I omitted shots of the built‐in look style simply to keep this document
smaller.
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Tamara Bellwether’s Easy and Sturdy Bookcase Plans
Here’s the basic bookcase, one of the first I made so long ago, without the venal fanciness. This makes it a
simple matter to add doors:
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Tamara Bellwether’s Easy and Sturdy Bookcase Plans
The top is carefully nailed, screwed, or in this case doweled to the top edge of the sides.
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Tamara Bellwether’s Easy and Sturdy Bookcase Plans
And here’s a somewhat venal interpretation of the same design:
Feel free to make your own variations in this elementary design.
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