23XL

Packaged Hermetic
Screw Liquid Chillers
®
Stop Major
Carrier Training Service

Familiarization • Disassembly • Reassembly

This program, Cat. No. 039-293, introduces the 23XL Screw Chiller with several new design
features including: hermetic twin screw compressors, factory-mounted electro-mechanical and
solid state starters and PIC controls.
In this program you will learn how to disassemble the compressor for the 23XL Screw Chiller.
Topics covered are listed in the Table of Contents, which can be accessed by clicking on the
Contents icon located on the lower left hand corner of each page.

"MANUFACTURER RESERVES THE RIGHT TO DISCONTINUE, MODIFY, OR CHANGE SPECIFICATIONS AND/OR

DESIGNS AT ANY TIME WITHOUT NOTICE OR INCURRING OBLIGATION.” Additionally, “THIS PROGRAM IS INTENDED
FOR FAMILIARIZATION AND/OR TRAINING PURPOSES ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED OR TREATED AS
COMPLETE INSTALLATION, SERVICE, OR TROUBLESHOOTING REFERENCES FOR SUBJECT OR OTHER PRODUCTS.
CURRENT PRODUCT SPECIFIC INSTALLATION AND SERVICE LITERATURE SHOULD BE CONSULTED BEFORE
ATTEMPTING THE PROCEDURES, PROCESSES, OR TECHNIQUES DESCRIBED HEREIN.”

This workbook and the material contained herein are the property of Carrier Corporation and may not be copied, reproduced, or
released without written permission of Carrier Corporation.
Catalog No. 039-292 Rev. 12/95
 Contents
Familiarization
Compressor
Capacity Control (Slide Valve)
Economizer
Starter(s)
Pre-Disassembly Procedures
Safety Considerations
Disassembly Procedures
Motor Stator and Rotor
Outlet Casing
Bearings
Rotors
Slide Valve
Compressor Reassembly
Rotors
Outlet Casing
Measuring Clearances
 Contents
Replacing Bearings
Slide Valve Assembly
Motor Rotor
Stator
Located in the back of the book are the following graphics:
Quiz
Quiz Key
Tool List
Rotor End Clearance Worksheet (Shim Sizing)
Compressor Cross Sections (3)
Slide Valve (2)
Rotor Bearings
Torque Specifications
Refrigerant — Oil Flow
 Familiarization

Click here for Figure 1 — 23XL Compressor Chiller

1. In this program, you will learn how to disassemble the compressor for the Carrier 23XL R-22
Screw Compressor Liquid Chiller. It will cover a Stop Major on 23XL machine models ranging
from 160 to 250 tons and includes:
• Machine familiarization
• Safety considerations
• Tools needed
• Pre-Disassembly procedures
• Disassembly procedures
• Inspecting internal parts
• Recording clearances
• Reassembly
This program will concentrate on frame size 1 and 2 machines, but it can also be used to
service the frame size 4 compressor. Some frame size 4 updates you should be aware of
include:
• A scaled up compressor design from 250 tons, with a choice of refrigerants R-22 or
R-134a.
 • Identical controls hardware.
• Controls software that is 99% unchanged.
• A radically different oil separator design—horizontal 20SA type versus vertical vortex.
• A float valve in the economizer instead of an orifice.
Installation, start-up and operation will not be covered. If you need more information, refer to the
Start-up, Operation and Maintenance instructions for the 23XL which is the model designation
of this machine. But first we want to introduce the unit features in this latest Carrier-designed
screw compressor chiller, a major advancement in the Carrier product line. The major
components consist of compressor, oil separator, condenser, cooler, and controls. This chiller
uses R-22 refrigerant and has product integrated controls.

Click here for Figure 2 — 23XL Chiller

2. The 23XL chillers are being introduced in two heat exchanger frame sizes with capacities
from 160 to 250 tons. The cooler is the typical flooded type, having the chilled water flowing
inside the tubes and refrigerant in the shell. The cooler also provides the mounting support for
the compressor, located above.
The compressor takes its suction directly from the top of the cooler, and discharges the
compressed gas through a check valve, muffler, and oil separator, and then directly down into
the condenser, which is mounted behind the cooler. Liquid refrigerant flows from the bottom of
the condenser back to the bottom of the cooler. All of these components are factory-mounted
and piped together for ease of rigging.

Click here for Figure 3 — Economizer

3. Only certain tonnage machines are equipped with an economizer.

Economizer
(Nominal Tonnage)
Without With
160 200
185 250
230
The economizer is factory-mounted in the liquid line, below the cooler.
Compressor

Click here for Figure 4 — Compressor

4. The compressor consists of three basic sections. The motor is at the right end as we face
the front of the unit. The center section is the compression chamber, which contains the two
helical rotors. The suction gas enters at the bottom and discharges horizontally at the high
pressure end of the chamber. At the left end is the capacity control mechanism, which is a
piston assembly linked to the slide valve whose position determines the gas flow through the
rotors. There will be either two or four solenoid valves that supply oil pressure to position the
piston assembly for proper capacity.

Click here for Figure 5 — Capacity Control Mechanism

5. If there are four solenoids, it identifies a chiller with variable volume ratio control.
The remainder of this program will cover a chiller with fixed volume control which has two
solenoid valves.
Capacity Control

Click here for Figure 6 — Compressor Capacity

6. Compressor capacity is controlled by a hydraulically-operated slide valve. The slide valve

operator is a piston/cylinder assembly. Pressurized oil fed to and bled from the assembly
positions the valve.
Oil flow is controlled by the two solenoid valves. Each solenoid is operated by "load" and
"unload" signals from the capacity control system.
For example, to unload the compressor, the "un-load" solenoid valve is energized and the
"load" solenoid valve is de-energized. This conducts pressurized oil to the cylinder, retracting
the operator shaft.

Click here for Figure 7 — Load Signal

7. On the other hand, a "load" signal de-energizes the "unload" valve and energizes the "load"
valve. This bleeds oil from the cylinder to the low pressure area within the compressor housing
extending the operator shaft.
And, when both solenoid valves are de-energized, the operator holds its current position.
Extension and retraction of the operator shaft "positions" the slide valve along the bottom of the
rotors. The valve position controls the gas flow rate delivered by the compressor.

Click here for Figure 8 — Valve Operating Shaft, Full Extension

8. At full capacity, the valve operator shaft is extended fully, closing the valve. With the valve
closed, the compressor pumps maximum gas flow, discharging through the radial and axial
ports.

Click here for Figure 9 — Operator Shaft Retraction

9. At part load, the operator shaft retracts, modulating the valve toward the open position. The
valve opening vents compressed gas back to suction, retarding the start of the compression
process. Consequently, when compression begins, the effective compression volume has been
reduced. In this way, the gas flow pumped by the compressor is modulated to balance a
changing load condition.
 Click here for Figure 10 — Oil Separator

10. The large vessel behind the compressor is the oil separator. The discharge gas enters at the
midsection and leaves near the top, while the separated oil drops to the sump at the bottom.
The oil is stored in the bottom chamber of the separator.
During operation, oil is "pushed" from the separator by system differential pressure. Therefore,
an oil pump is not required.
 Click here for Figure 11 — Condenser

11. The oil from the separator flows through the filter and foreign particles are removed.
Note: Some pre-production models were equipped with a vertical oil filter. Current 23XL pro-
duction machines use a horizontal oil sump/filter assembly. A portion of the oil flow is directed to
the compressor bearings for lubrication. Another part of the oil is used to position the slide valve
assembly. The remaining oil is injected during compression for purposes of sealing clearances
between rotors. Some oil may be carried through the heat exchangers. In this event, an oil
reclaim system using an eductor removes oil from the evaporator and returns it to the compres-
sor.

Click here for Figure 12 — Electric Heater

12. You will notice that there is no oil cooler in the system. Unlike the centrifugal compressor,
the screw compressor does not require oil cooling. There is, however, an electric heater in the
oil separator sump, to insure the correct oil/refrigerant mixture.
Notice the sensor in the oil sump to monitor sump temperature and also to control the oil heater.
There is also a low oil level switch in the oil sump.
 Click here for Figure 13 — Shell and Tube Construction

13. The condenser is the familiar shell and tube construction, with cooling water flowing inside
the tubes.

Click here for Figure 14 — Float Valve

14. A float valve is installed in the sump below the shell, and controls the flow of liquid
refrigerant to the cooler.

Click here for Figure 15 — Refrigerant Isolation Valves

15. An important feature of this new unit is the optional refrigerant isolation valves. One valve is
located in the discharge line to the condenser, and the other is in the liquid line leaving the
condenser. These valves are used for transfer and isolation of the refrigerant charge in the
condenser, when service work is required.
Both the cooler and condenser vessels are ASME approved with relief valves.
Motor cooling is accomplished by piping liquid refrigerant from the bottom of the condenser
through a valve, a filter-dryer and a dry-eye to the motor end bell.
Economizer

Click here for Figure 16 — Economizer Vessel

16. The economizer vessel is located in the liquid line below the cooler. Some of the liquid
refrigerant is allowed to vaporize at an intermediate pressure in the economizer. This removes
the heat from the rest of the liquid, cooling it and increasing the cooler capacity.
The "flash" gas is injected into the compressor at an intermediate point in the compression
cycle. The remaining liquid passes through an orifice and then on to the evaporator. The
resulting increase in compressor power is less than the increase in cooler capacity, so the net
effect is a system improvement in capacity and efficiency.

Click here for Figure 17 — Power Panel

17. The power panel contains the 115 and 230 volt control components. These include the oil
heater contactor, control circuit voltage selector, low voltage transformers, and the hot gas
bypass relay, if specified.
Starter(s)

Click here for Figure 18 — Factory Mounted Starter

18. The unit is available with one of two factory-mounted optional starters. One option is an
electro-mechanical style.

Click here for Figure 19 — Electro-Mechanical Starter Panel

19. The electro-mechanical starter panel contains the 1CR relay, motor run contacts, starter
fault contacts, motor overload contacts, and the Starter Management Module or SMM. There
are also pilot relays for the chilled water pump, condenser water pump, and cooling tower fan
motors.
The control panel is hinged and swings out of the way to service the starter contacts.

Click here for Figure 20 — Solid State Starter

20. The second optional starter is solid state. This starter may or may not be on your machine.
This starter also uses a Starter Management Module, or SMM, to communicate with the PSIO
(Processor Sensor Input/Output) in the PIC (Product Integrated Control) control box.
Amperage, voltage and operating information are relayed between the PSIO and the SMM. This
operating information can be displayed on the LID (Local Interface Device).

Click here for Figure 21 — Control Panel

21. Now back to the front of the machine. The control panel is where the PIC controls are found.
These are digital electronic devices that control machine operation and perform diagnostic
functions, using inputs from the machine and the operator.

Click here for Figure 22 — PIC Control Panel (Front)

22. On the front of the PIC control panel we have a stop button, an alarm light, an LCD monitor
and four function switches or softkeys.
Inside the box we find a processor module known as the PSIO (Processor Sensor Input/
Output). There's room enough to add four optional modules for future requirements. To the left
is a relay module. This entire box is low voltage and gets its power from the Power Panel.
 Click here for Figure 23 — Local Interface Device (LID)

23. The Local Interface Device (LID) displays information both while the machine is running and
during shutdown.
These controls will:
• Control start-up and shutdown of the chiller.
• Modulate the compressor slide valve to maintain desired chilled water temperature,
and to protect against abnormal compressor conditions.
• Generate alarms and fault messages for abnormal conditions, and shut down the unit
when system safety requires.
• Control unit operation per the programmed occupied/unoccupied time schedules.
 Pre-Disassembly Procedures

Click here for Figure 24 — Disassembling the Compressor

24. In this section of the training program, you will learn how to disassemble the compressor for
the 23XL liquid chiller.
Before starting, make sure you have all the necessary safety gear, including proper safety
glasses, gloves and fire extinguisher. Be sure that all your tools and equipment are sturdy and
in good working order. And for safety's sake, always lock and tag all disconnects.
If you have questions about safety procedures, read the Carrier Safety Guide before working on
a 23XL machine.
Before we talk about tools, one thing you should know is that the screw compressor uses all
metric dimensions and mostly metric fasteners. The heat exchangers are American standard
dimensions and use English fasteners. This means you'll need some metric wrenches to do this
overhaul. We'll point them out as we continue. Refer to the Torque Table in the back of this
book.
Some of the tools needed are:
• Depth micrometer
• Outside micrometer 0" to 3"
 • End clearance tool
• Roller bearing removal puller
• Blind collet-type bearing puller
• Inlet sleeve and bearing removal tool
• T-Bar measuring tool for end clearance check
• Rotor bearing removal tool
Additional materials needed include:
• Clean lint-free rags
• Approved compressor oil
• Replacement spare parts, new O-rings, filters etc.
Note: For a complete listing of tools needed, see the tool list in the back of this workbook.
We will store all the bolts and parts in plastic storage bags and identify the contents of each
bag.
We will store all the parts in a dry, clean area, and keep them orderly so that the parts will not be
lost and reassembly may be completed more rapidly and accurately.
Let's start this program by covering pre-disassembly procedures.
Pressurize and leak-test the entire unit. Look for unusual leaks that can be repaired while the
compressor is being overhauled. After tagging all leaks, proceed to reclaim the refrigerant.
When you have a low ambient temperature in the equipment room, evacuate the chiller and
break back the vacuum with nitrogen. This will help prevent moisture from entering and
condensation from forming.
It's important to leave 1 to 2 PSI positive nitrogen pressure. Then break the refrigerant and
tubing connections.
Isolate the chilled and condenser water circuits by closing the valves. Be sure the main
disconnect to the compressor motor and the control panel is locked open and tagged. Opening
the main disconnect will isolate the oil heater.
And remember, while the unit is open, keep the refrigerant side as clean and dry as possible.
Do this by taping all openings closed with plastic material to prevent foreign materials from
entering the machine. Also, oil down all compressor parts to prevent rusting.

Click here for Figure 25 — Removing Solenoids

25. We'll cover the things which must be done before you can rig the compressor casings.
Identify and tag, then disconnect all control wiring that would prevent servicing the compressor.
Disconnect the discharge pressure sensor.
Identify and tag each of the solenoids before removing them. Low temperature compressors
have four. Remove the solenoids by using a screw driver to lift the locking cap. Slide the
solenoid coil off the solenoid valve shaft.
Disconnect the capacity control solenoid's supply and return lines from the top of the slide
casing. Disconnect the oil supply at the separator.
Disconnect the hanger bracket for oil lines from the outlet casing.
 Click here for Figure 26 — Motor Terminal Cover

26. Remove the motor terminal cover. Identify and disconnect the main power leads. Identify
and disconnect the motor sensor leads at the small terminal block.

Click here for Figure 27 — Oil Supply Line

27. Unbolt the oil supply line for the bearings and rotor. Notice that all piping connections are the
mechanical compression type and a torch will not be needed. Some compressors have an
economizer pipe connected to the outlet casing. Disconnect it at this time. Unbolt the eductor
line at the rotor housing.

Click here for Figure 28 — Motor Cooling Line

28. Disconnect the motor cooling line at the motor end cover.
Disconnect the motor drain line at the inlet casing.
With the refrigerant removed, drain the compressor oil. Unscrew the combination oil drain and
sensor port located on the bottom of the outlet housing. Use a small, shallow pan to catch the
oil.
In review, section 1 covered:
• Machine Familiarization
• Safety Considerations
• Tools Needed, and
• Pre-Disassembly Procedures.
 Disassembly Procedures

Click here for Figure 29 — Compressor Disassembly

29. Now we'll disassemble the compressor. To remove the slide valve assembly, first, remove 2
cap screws from the separator plate and screw in 12mm guide bolts at 9 and 3 o'clock. Remove
all but two of the cap screws.
Set up the rigging. Use a nylon sling. Remove the remaining cap screws.
Screw in two jacking bolts. Apply equal pressure on each jacking bolt to bring the slide valve
assembly straight out. Uneven jacking will break the dowels or castings!

Click here for Figure 30 — Slide Valve Assembly

30. Pull the slide valve assembly straight out at least two feet. When pulling the slide valve
expect some oil to come out the discharge port of the outlet casing.Be careful so the slide
valve does not drop. The valve assembly will be over-balanced.Be very careful that it doesn't
drop and cause damage to the slide valve.
Be careful as you separate the cases because two spring-loaded Belleville washers will fall out.
 Click here for Figure 31 — Spring Retainer Assembly Removal

31. Reach into the slide valve port and remove the spring retainer assembly.
Move the slide valve assembly to a workbench.

Click here for Figure 32 — Bearing Spacers

32. Notice the bearing spacers in the outlet casing. Pull out the female bearing spacer. Remove
the male Belleville washer if it hasn't fallen out, then remove the male bearing spacer.

Click here for Figure 33 — Measuring Thrust or Rotor End Clearance

33. Set up a dial indicator on the bearing retainer surface of the female rotor to measure the
thrust or rotor end clearance.
Screw the special T-bar tool into the bearing retainer of the female rotor.
Push the rotor in and zero the dial indicator. Then pull it out. Record the rotor end clearance
reading. Take the same reading on the male rotor.
 Click here for Figure 34 — Motor End Cover Removal

34. Next, remove the stator and rotor. Unbolt the motor cooling line if you haven't already done
so. The motor cooling line will have to be cut with a tubing cutter. Remove this line from the
work area. Tape the open end.
Notice that the PIC control box is blocking the rotor and stator. Unbolt the box at the base. Two
of the mounting bolts are inside the box.
Disconnect the wire from the evaporator transducer.
With the bolts removed, lift the PIC control box away from the mounting. Be careful not to strain
the power and control wires. Move the control box toward the condenser out of the way.
Notice the wobble foot. It will need to be cut or bent out of the way. We will bend it away from
the motor end cover to get the necessary clearance.
To remove the motor end cover, remove 2 motor end cover cap screws at 3 and 9 o'clock, and
screw in 12mm guide bolts.
Remove the remaining cap screws.
Next, remove the motor end cover. Be careful. This cover has no flange and will drop. Bring it
out about 4 inches or enough to get your fingers under it. Remove it from the work area.
 Click here for Figure 35 — Motor Casing Removal

35. To remove the motor casing, remove two motor casing cap screws and screw in 16mm
guide bolts at 9 and 3 o'clock. Set up the rigging and use a nylon strap. Remove the remaining
bolts. Be careful because the stator is front heavy. Use jacking bolts to push the motor casing
out of the inlet casing. Again, jack evenly so the dowels don't break.
Keep the motor casing as level as possible so as not to scratch the rotor or stator. The stator
must be pulled out at least two feet to clear the rotor. Be careful not to damage terminal pins.

Click here for Figure 36 — Motor Casing

36. Move the motor casing away from the work area. For details on how to remove the stator
from the motor casing refer to paragraph number 84 on page 27 of this workbook.
 Click here for Figure 37 — Rotor

37. Now we'll pull the rotor.

Bend the locking tabs down and loosen the rotor locking bolt. Use a strap wrench to hold the
rotor. Then remove the bolt, locking tab and rotor plate washer.
Before pulling the rotor, the holes in the rotor laminations may need to be tapped to use the
rotor puller.
When using the puller, use a nylon bushing to protect the rotor shaft.

Click here for Figure 38 — Rigging the Rotor

38. Set up the rigging. Pull the rotor out, but be careful to support it, because it's very heavy.
The rotor has to be pulled out at least one foot before it is off the male rotor shaft. Remove it
from the work area. Remove the motor rotor key from the male rotor shaft.
Outlet Casing

Click here for Figure 39 — Outlet Casing

39. Next is the outlet casing. There's a check valve in the discharge of the outlet casing that
extends into the muffler. Moving the oil separator will clear the check valve to allow removal of
the outlet casing.
Drain the oil separator using a pail to catch the oil and open the service valve.
Remove the bolts that secure the oil filter assembly to the muffler.
Remove the bolts from the oil separator outlet flange.
Take the four bolts out of the bottom of the oil separator.
Disconnect the oil supply line from the bottom of the oil separator. Make preparations to catch
any additional oil which may be trapped in the oil separator.
Screw an eye bolt into the top of the oil separator.
Move the rigging into place and put tension on the rigging. Remove the bolts that attach the
muffler to the outlet casing.
Lift and move the separator enough to clear the check valve.
Screw one bolt into the discharge flange to help stabilize the separator.
 Click here for Figure 40 — Check Valve Flapper

40. Next, pull the pin out of the check valve flapper and remove the flapper.

Click here for Figure 41 — Guide Bolt Locations

41. Now, concentrate on the outlet casing.

Set up the rigging using the eye bolt. Remove 2 bolts from the outlet casing and screw in guide
bolts at 10 and 2 o'clock.
Remove the remaining bolts.
Unbolt and remove the bearing retainer plates for both the male and female rotor.

Bearings

Click here for Figure 42 — Rotor Bearing Removal Tool

42. Set up the rotor bearing removal tool on the outlet casing. Use nylon bushings to protect the
rotors. Apply equal pressure on each screw. This will pull the bearings off the rotor and separate
the outlet casing. Alignment is critical. Do not cock the outlet casing!
 Click here for Figure 43 — Outlet Casing/Rotor Casing

43. Pull the outlet casing away from the rotor casing. Move it to the floor and support it with
wood.

Click here for Figure 44 — Bearings

44. Now pull the bearings out by hand. The female rotor has two ball bearings and one roller
bearing. These bearings only go in one way.
Use a marker to identify each bearing and the installed direction.
Remove the outer bearing spacer from the female side and mark female to identify it. Remove
the inner spacer from the female rotor. Notice this spacer has a shim, which is how the rotor end
clearance is adjusted.
Note: Depending on tolerances there may or may not be a shim.

Click here for Figure 45 — Roller Bearing Puller

45. The roller bearings will require a special puller. Set up the tool so it will pull the roller bearing
out of the casing. Slide the bar over the threaded rod. Then install a washer and nut. Tighten
the nut to pull the roller bearing out. Inspect the bearing for damage or wear.
Now reach in and pull out the orifice ring. Notice this has an O-ring which is used as an oil seal.
Notice the orifice ring has a small roll pin which is used for anti-rotation.

Rotors

Click here for Figure 46 — Rotors

46. Inspect the outlet casing. There should be no contact. Inspect the ends of the rotors. If
there's any wear, it will show up on these surfaces.
Inspect the inner bearing races of the roller bearings.
Notice the small OIL FEED O-ring above the rotor.

Click here for Figure 47 — Removing Female Rotor

47. The next operation will be removing the rotors. Pull the female rotor out first. It is the one on
the right. Rotate it as you pull it out. You will need a sling to lift the rotors unless you have two
men. Move the female rotor to a bench and place support under the rotor shaft.
 Click here for Figure 48 — Removing Male Rotor

48. Pull the male rotor out. If you're using a sling be careful to support the rotor because the
male rotor shaft is overbalanced and may damage the shaft or fall from the rigging. It weighs
approximately 200 pounds.

Click here for Figure 49 — Supporting Removed Rotors

49. Move the rotors to a bench and place support under the rotor shafts but not directly under
the inner bearing race.

Click here for Figure 50 — Rotor Inspection

50. Inspect the rotors for wear or damage. Look for pitting, scratches, or unusual wear. Look at
the rotors to find a contact band. Under normal conditions this band may be as wide as 8mm
(5/16"). If the band is 13mm (1/2") or more you should contact your local technical
representative.
Inspect the inner bearing races which are still on the rotor. Look for unusual wear.
Inspect each end of the rotor to see if it's making contact with the cases and causing wear.
 Click here for Figure 51 — Rotor Bores

51. Also check the rotor bores in the rotor casing for rotor contact.

Click here for Figure 52 — Rotor Casing Removal

52. Next remove the rotor casing. Remove a cap screw at 3 and 9 o'clock and put in guide bolts.
Remove the remaining cap screws. Screw in an eye bolt and attach the rigging.
Use jacking bolts to separate the cases. Pull the rotor casing straight out and remove it from the
work area.

Click here for Figure 53 — Removing Female Inlet Case Bearing Sleeve

53. If the female rotor bearing located in the inlet casing is to be replaced, two special tools will
be needed -- an inlet sleeve and bearing removal tool and a blind hole collet-type bearing puller.
Start by using these tools to pull the female inlet case bearing sleeve.
To use the blind collet-type puller, back off the bolt so the jaws are retracted. Put the tool inside
the bearing sleeve and expand the jaws. Turn the nut in to pull the sleeve out.
Do not pull the sleeve and inlet bearing at the same time. Pull one at a time.
Now set up the blind puller and use this method to pull the female rotor bearing, which is also in
the blind hole. Inspect the bearing for wear or damage.
This blind puller is also used for the male rotor bearing to remove both the sleeve and bearing.

Slide Valve

Click here for Figure 54 — Slide Valve Disassembly

54. Next, disassemble the slide valve. Set up rigging to support the slide casing.

CAUTION ! CAUTION
Remove all the O-ring seal plugs to relieve the oil pressure.

Set up a 5-gallon pail to catch the oil, which may be a quart or more. Remove the slide valve
cover cap screws. Remove the cover by carefully working it out.
Note: A two-piece casing is shown here, however, the new design slide valve assembly has a
one-piece casing.
 Click here for Figure 55 — Slide Valve Rigging

55. Set up the rigging on the slide cover end and rig the slide valve assembly vertical. Lower the
slide valve into the pail.
Remove the bolts that secure the slide casing to the separator plate.
Use guide bolts to keep the slide casing straight. Use jacking bolts to separate the case past the
dowels.

CAUTION ! CAUTION

Another quart of oil will escape when the separator plate and slide valve assem-
bly are separated. Make preparations to catch the oil. Also, loosen the supply
and return pipe plugs if you haven't already done so, because the oil is still
under pressure and will spray out.

Click here for Figure 56 — Slide Casing and Piston

56. Raise the slide casing up and off the piston. Inspect the seals for wear and damage. Inspect
the slide bore for scratches and wear.
 Click here for Figure 57 — Capacity Rod

57. Now, remove the piston from the capacity rod. Bend the lock washer tabs and remove the
lock nut.
Lift the piston off the capacity rod. Notice there's an O-ring on the slide shaft to seal the piston.

Click here for Figure 58 — Separator Plate

58. Lift the separator plate straight off the capacity rod. When lifting the separator plate be
careful not to scratch the capacity rod. Inspect the slide valve for wear and damage.

Click here for Figure 59 — Slide Seal Adaptor

59. Next, to remove the slide seal adapter, unscrew the four cap screws. Use two bolts to lift the
adapter out of the separator plate.
In review, section 2 covered disassembly of the:
• Motor Stator & Rotor
• Outlet Casing
• Bearings
• Rotors, and
• Slide Valve
 Compressor Reassembly

Click here for Figure 60 — Compressor Reassembly

60. Now we'll reassemble the compressor. Remove all the capacity control solenoid valves and
plugs. Make sure the oil passageways are clean and free of dirt.
Clean and inspect all the compressor parts. Do not use solvent or compressed air to clean the
bearings. Use an oil bath.
Look for scratches, damage or wear. Use Scotch Brite to polish only the rotor surfaces. Do not
use Scotch Brite on bearing surfaces.
Clean the mating surfaces and use a flat honing stone to flatten the areas where the jacking
bolts made contact with the cases.
Make sure all O-ring sealing surfaces are clean. Be sure to eliminate any high spots, gouges, or
scratches.
Our next operation is replacing the roller bearings into the inlet casing. To facilitate this
operation, the bearings and sleeves will need to be chilled using dry ice. The bearings and
sleeves must be put into plastic bags before chilling to prevent frost build-up on the parts. This
will make installation easier and prevent damage. Cool the bearings and sleeves for one-half
hour or more before installation.
Clean and prepare the inlet casing to receive the bearings. Use insulated gloves to handle the
bearings. Start the female rotor bearing in the bore and use a PVC tool to push and seat it in the
case.
Now replace the female rotor sleeve using the same method. When the female side is
complete, move to the male rotor side and replace the bearing and sleeve.
Make sure the sleeves are slightly below the machined face of the inlet casing.

Click here for Figure 61 — Rotor Casing

61. Now, the rotor casing. Use the screw compressor oil to lubricate the O-ring grooves. Place
the two O-rings, small and large, into the rotor casing.
Screw guide bolts into the inlet casing at 3 and 9 o'clock.
Rig the rotor casing toward the inlet casing. Start a few cap screws. Use the cap screws to draw
the two casings together. Tighten each side equally so it doesn't bind and break the dowels.
Tighten the remaining cap screws. Then tighten each cap screw with a torque wrench.
Rotors

Click here for Figure 62 — Rotors

62. We will now prepare the rotors for reassembly. If the inner bearing races on the rotor are to
be replaced, support the rotor with blocks and use a double-tip torch. Be careful not to overheat
the rotor. Use heat resistant gloves to handle the bearing races.

Click here for Figure 63 — Heating Roller Bearings

63. The replacement roller bearings must be a matched set of inner races and outer bearings.
Do not mix the parts. To install the new races, heat the races in an oven or oil bath to 250°F
(121°C).
Take the races out of the oil bath, one at a time, and push the race onto the rotor until it
seats. Hold until it shrinks on the shaft. Use the same procedure for the other races.

Click here for Figure 64 — Male Rotor Replacement

64. The next operation will be replacing the rotors.

Oil both the male and female rotor bearings in the inlet casing. Oil the rotor bores and the slide
valve bore. Set up the rigging and use a sling to lift the male rotor. Oil the male rotor lobes and
bearing races. Move the rotor to the rotor casing. Carefully push the rotor in the casing. Be
careful not to jam the rotor as you push it into the inlet casing roller bearing.

Click here for Figure 65 — Female Rotor Replacement

65. Next the female rotor. Use clean cloths and wipe the lobes. Oil the female rotor surfaces,
both bearings and rotor lobes. Rig the female rotor into the rotor casing. The lobes need to
mesh with the male rotor. Turn the female to match the lobes. Then turn the female into the
male until it bottoms out in the roller bearing.

Click here for Figure 66 — Rotor Measure to Housing

66. Check to see if both rotors are below the machined face of the rotor housing. The height
difference should be .014 to .022 inches (.35 to .55mm). Use a depth micrometer to make this
measurement.
 CAUTION ! CAUTION

If either of the rotors are above this surface something is wrong and will have to
be resolved before anything else is done.

Outlet Casing

Click here for Figure 67 — Outlet Casing Reassembly

67. To reassemble the outlet casing, clean the casing and prepare it for the bearings. Wipe out
the rotor bores with a clean cloth.
Rig the outlet housing and lay it down on the large flange.
Orient the orifice rings so that the roll pins are in the oil feed passage and the rings seat into the
bore correctly. Before the bearings are installed first make sure the orifice rings with O-rings are
in place in the male and female bores of the outlet casing.
Now replace the roller bearing in the outlet casing. Use the dry ice and the same assembly
procedures used for the inlet casing roller bearings.
Use the PVC tool to push the bearings into place and seat them. Hold each one for roughly 1
minute. Use enough force to compress the O-ring.
Then oil the O-ring grooves. Oil the O-ring, then replace both the large and small O-ring into the
rotor casing.

Click here for Figure 68 — Nylon Sleeve

68. Slide a nylon sleeve onto the male and female rotors to protect the bearing surfaces.
To install the outlet casing, screw in two guide bolts at 10 and 2 o'clock in the outlet casing.
Oil the roller bearings.

Click here for Figure 69 — Outlet Casing Rigging

69. Rig the outlet casing and carefully work the outlet casing onto the rotor casing and guide
bolts. Start a few cap screws and draw the casings together evenly. The dowels control the
position of the two casings and cannot be cocked. Put in about 4 to 5 cap screws. Torque the 4
to 5 cap screws.
See if the rotors turn freely without binding and see if there is end play by pulling and pushing
male rotor. Continue putting all the bolts in and torque to specifications.
Measuring Clearances

Click here for Figure 70 — End Clearance (Rotors)

70. Now we will measure the end clearance of the rotors.

Pull the female rotor shaft toward the outlet casing using the end clearance tool until it stops
against the inner surface of the outlet housing.
We'll use a depth micrometer to take these measurements. Measure the height difference of the
faces of the inner to outer races on the female rotor using the depth micrometer. First measure
the outer race and record the reading. Then measure the inner race difference and record the
reading.

Click here for Figure 71 — Outer/Inner Bearing Spacer

71. Choose an outer bearing spacer and scribe F (for female) on the I.D. to identify it. Use a
micrometer to measure the thickness and record the measurement. Choose an inner bearing
spacer. Measure the inner spacer and record the reading.
The desired inner spacer thickness can now be calculated.
 Click here for Figure 72 — Shim Calculation

72. Use the worksheet in this book to determine the amount of shim to add or remove from the
inner spacer to achieve the desired clearance.
When the desired clearance adjustment of.004 to.006 inches (.10 to.15mm) is complete, you
can put the outer spacer in place against the roller bearing. Then the inner spacer slides over
the shaft and against the inner race. Now the shim will go up against the inner spacer.
When the female side is complete, repeat the procedure for the male rotor, then put the shims
and spacers in the male side.
Replacing Bearings

Click here for Figure 73 — Outlet Casing Ball Bearings

73. Now we'll replace the outlet casing ball bearings. Clean and inspect the bearings. Look for
dirt or damage. Do not spin these bearings with compressed air or by hand because it will
damage the bearing. Rinse the bearings in clean oil, not solvent.
Place the bearings in an oven or heated oil bath. Bring the temperature up to 250°F (121°C).
The reason for heating the bearings is that the inner race is a shrink fit on the rotor shaft and
heat will expand the race.
Before replacing the bearings look at a view of an exploded assembly drawing. The female rotor
has two ball bearings, which are oriented face to face. Notice how it makes contact with the
bearing spacers.
The male rotor has four ball bearings. Three are oriented in the same direction and the fourth is
face to face with the third.

Click here for Figure 74 — Bearing Replacement

74. Now replace the bearings. Start with the female rotor. Check the bearing orientation. Take
the ball bearing out of the oil bath and push it onto the rotor. Use a PVC tool to push and seat
the bearing and hold it a few seconds until it shrinks onto the shaft. Now repeat the procedure
with the second bearing.

Click here for Figure 75 — Torque Rotor Bearing Bolts

75. With the female rotor bearings installed put Loctite on the bearing retainer bolts.
Place the bearing retainer on the female rotor and start the bolts.
Tighten the bolts to the proper torque. The rotor will turn so it will need to be blocked to get the
proper torque. Do the same thing for the male rotor. Again check the orientation of the bearings
before installing them. Remember the male rotor has four ball bearings, each one needing to be
seated using the PVC tool. With all the bearings and retainers in place, use the male rotor shaft
to rotate the compressor to see if it turns freely without binding.

Click here for Figure 76 — T-Bar Tool/Dial Indicator

76. Set up the T-bar tool and a dial indicator and take an end clearance reading on each rotor.
Push and pull the T-bar. It should be between.004 and.006 inches (.10 to.15mm). Record this
measurement. If you get a higher or lower measurement, disassemble the bearings and
recalculate inner shim thicknesses.

Slide Valve Assembly

Click here for Figure 77 — Slide Valve

77. Next we'll assemble the slide valve.

Clean all the parts and get them ready for assembly. Put the slide valve rod assembly in a pail
and slide the separator plate over it.
Place thin mylar over the upright shaft. Use this method to slide the seal ring into place.
Check the seal orientation. This seals the capacity control slide valve assembly from discharge
pressure. Next put the slide seal adapter on. Be sure the O-ring is in place and facing down.
Push the seal ring into the groove until it's flush. Then push the seal adapter down into the
separator plate. With the plate seated, use Loctite and start the cap screws. Do not use
excessive Loctite on the cap screws. Tighten these to the proper torque.

Click here for Figure 78 — Slide Valve Piston

78. Now the slide valve piston. If you're replacing the guide seal assembly, there are two seal
rings; the thin one faces the separator plate. Place the thin seal ring on the piston so the open
end with the spring is toward the separator plate. Check the illustration for orientation.
It may be necessary to adjust the larger seal ring. Compress it into the slot. If it doesn't fit and
overlaps, trim a little off one end.
The slide valve piston assembly is placed on the shaft with the O-ring in place and the tapped
bolt holes up. Now put on the lock washer and lock nut. Torque the nut. Align the nut to match a
tab and bend up a tab to lock it in place.
 Click here for Figure 79 — O-Ring/Slide Valve Casing

79. Now place the O-ring into the end of the slide valve casing and raise it up over the separator
plate.
Place guide rods in the separator plate.
Oil the piston, bore, and shaft.
Carefully lower the slide casing over the slide valve piston. Don't damage the seals. Push the
piston seals in as you lower the casing. Lower the casing on the guide rods and dowel pins and
start the cap screws into the separator plate. Torque these bolts to the proper torque.

Click here for Figure 80 — Slide Assembly

80. Next, raise the slide assembly up and place it horizontally on a bench and replace the slide
valve cover.
Replace the O-ring and oil it. Push the cover into place and start the cap screws. Torque the
cap screws.
 Click here for Figure 81 — Slide Valve Assembly

81. Next, attach the slide valve assembly to the outlet casing.
Replace the male and female rotor spacers in the outlet housing.
Use a little grease to hold the Belleville washers in place. Place the convex side of the Belleville
washer out or toward the separator plate. Use a new O-ring and put it in place on the outlet
casing. Screw in two guide bolts at 3 and 9 o'clock.

Click here for Figure 82 — Slide Valve Rigging

82. Rig the slide valve up and close to the compressor. Check the alignment of the slide valve.
Make sure the saddle is up to match the rotors. Replace the spring retainer assembly into the
capacity slide rod. Use the rigging to place the slide valve into the outlet casing.

CAUTION ! CAUTION
Carefully guide the slide valve into the slide bore of the rotor casing.
Keep the slide valve as straight as possible, otherwise the spring retainer will jam. Push the
slide valve assembly into the outlet casing and onto the guide bolts. Start the cap screws and
tighten the cap screws evenly to draw it into place. Then torque the cap screws.
Now replace the O-ring pipe plugs in the slide casing. Replace the O-rings if needed.
Replace the oil drain plug in the outlet casing and any other plugs in the different cases.

Motor Rotor

Click here for Figure 83 — Rotor Shaft

83. Now turn the rotor shaft by hand to see if it turns freely. If there's any binding or problems it
will be necessary to find out why. If applicable, replace the male inlet spacer between the motor
rotor and male rotor inlet bearing race.
Now replace the motor rotor and stator. Turn the rotor keyway slot to 12 o'clock. Push the key
into place. Make sure it's down into the slot. Check to see if the rotor is clean. It may be
necessary to heat the rotor to get it on the shaft. Rig the rotor and heat the inside of the rotor.
Use a large-tip torch. Block one end to concentrate the heat. Line up the keyway slot with the
key. Push the rotor on the shaft until it stops.
Replace the rotor plate washer and rotor lock washer and bolt. Tighten the bolt to the proper
torque. Use a strap wrench to hold the rotor. Bend a tab that matches a flat on the head of the
bolt. Check the rotor runout using a dial indicator.
Stator

Click here for Figure 84 — Stator Replacement

84. To replace the stator, identify and disconnect the wires at the motor terminals. Remove the
hollow hex plug. Remove the set screw. Use a special tool to push the round alignment key out.
Set up rigging and use "C" hook special tool to rig and slide the stator out.
To install a new stator, use the "C" hook to rig the new stator. Place the round stator key into the
slot. Push the stator into the motor casing until it seats. Use Loctite on the threads of the set
screw and tighten it.
Connect the stator leads to the terminal pins. Double check the motor leads to make sure each
lead number matches its terminal pin number. Use two wrenches to make these connections
tight. Do not tighten inner nut against insulator of terminal pin.

Click here for Figure 85 — Motor Casing

85. To replace the motor casing, raise the motor casing using a sling. Oil and replace the O-ring.
Set up guide bolts at 9 and 3 o'clock. Rig the motor casing into place using the guide bolts.
Replace the cap screws and screw all the bolts evenly because of the dowel pins. Tighten to the
proper torque.
 Click here for Figure 86 — Compressor

86. Turn the compressor over by hand. Use feeler gauges to check the air gap. It should be.038
to.047 inches (.97 to 1.19mm). Before replacing the motor end cover use a megohmmeter to
check motor resistance. Also megger each of the leads to ground.

Click here for Figure 87 — Motor End Cover O-Ring

87. If everything is OK replace the motor end cover O-ring. Use guide bolts at 9 and 3 o'clock.
Lift or rig the motor end cover into place. Push it over the guide bolts and start the cap screws.
Tighten these cap screws.

Click here for Figure 88 — Completed Chiller Assembly (Front View)

88. To complete this compressor overhaul:

• Install the check valve flapper and connect the oil separator.
• Connect all flanges, pipes, tubing, conduit, and electrical connections.
• Change refrigerant filters, (if any).
 • Perform leak testing.
• Add a new charge of compressor oil.
• Perform "Machine Dehydration"
• Replace the insulation, (if needed).
• Recharge the machine, and return the machine to normal operating conditions.

Click here for Figure 89 — Completed Chiller Assembly (Rear View)

89. In review, section 3 covered:

• Reassembly of the Rotors
• Measuring Clearances
• Replacing Bearings
• Reassembly of the Slide Valve
• Installation of the Motor Rotor and Stator
This completes our coverage of Carrier's 23XL Screw Compressor Liquid Chiller Stop Major. In
this program we covered:
• Machine Familiarization
• Safety Considerations
• Tools Needed
• Pre-Disassembly Procedures
• Disassembly Procedures
 • Inspecting the Internal Parts
• Recording Clearances, and
• Reassembly
We hope this program goes a long way to help you understand the 23XL machine, and how to
service it.
Click here for Rotor End Clearance Worksheet

Click here for 23XL Casings — Male Side View

Click here for 23XL Casings — Top Sectional View

Click here for 23XL Casings — Top View and Female Side View

Click here for Slide Valve Assembly — Two Piece Casing Shown

Click here for Slide Casing (Internal and External)

Click here for Rotor Bearings

Click here for 200 Ton Screw Compressor Torque Specification Chart for Metric
and American Fasteners

Click here for Refrigerant — Oil Flow Schematic

 Quiz
Familiarization
1. True or False. The PIC controls and the slide valve provide capacity control for the screw
compressor chiller.
2. The screw compressor uses all _______________ dimensions and fasteners and heat
exchanger fasteners are _______________ standard dimensions.
3. True or False. During operation, oil is pushed from the oil separator to the compressor
bearings and slide valve by system differential pressure.
4. True or False. For start-up, an auxiliary oil pump is used to provide pre-start lubrication.
5. The 23XL cooler is the typical flooded-type having:
a. water in the shell and refrigerant in the tubes.
b. water in the tubes and refrigerant in the shell.
c. neither of the above.
6. The economizer is used to:
a. vaporize some of the liquid refrigerant in order to cool the remaining liquid.
b. Superheat liquid refrigerant and inject it into the first stage.
c. not available on the 23XL.
7. The starter uses a Starter Management Module or _______________ to communicate with
the _______________ in the _______________ control box.
a. SMM, SMAC, LID
b. SMM, operator, high voltage
c. SMM, PSIO, PIC
d. SMM, PSIO, CNN
8. True or False. The 23XL compressor uses hot gas bypass for surge protection.
9. Amps, volts, and operating information are relayed between the PSIO and the
_______________.
10. True or False. The 23XL compressor has an oil cooler which is mounted directly to the
compressor.
11. True or False. The purpose of the oil heater in the separator is to ensure the correct oil/
refrigerant mixture.
12. Low temperature, variable volume ratio control compressors contain _______________
slide valve (capacity control) solenoid valves.
a. two
b. four
c. six
d. none
 Disassembly Procedures
13. When removing the slide valve assembly, you will probably find _______________ coming
from the discharge port of the outlet casing.
a. refrigerant
b. oil
c. grease
14. True or False. When removing the motor, the stator is pulled before the rotor is removed.
15. There is a _______________ in the discharge of the outlet casing that extends into the
muffler.
a. oil seal
b. noise attenuator
c. check valve
d. pressure tap
16. The male rotor has _______________ ball bearings and _______________ cylindrical roller
bearing(s) in the outlet casing.
a. two, one
b. four, two
c. three, three
d. four, one
17. The female rotor has _______________ ball bearings and _______________ cylindrical
roller bearing(s) in the outlet casing.
a. two, one
b. four, two
c. three, three
d. four, one
18. If there is any wear on the rotors, it will show up on the _______ and _______ surfaces.
a. lobes
b. journals
c. ends
d. bores
19. True or False. When removing the rotors, always remove the male rotor first.
20. Before the slide valve assembly and separator plate are separated, be sure to remove the
supply and return _______________ _______________ to relieve pressure from the oil.
 Compressor Reassembly
21. Before re-assembling the rotors, polish any scratches with _______________.
a. emery cloth
b. Scotch Brite
c. polishing compound
d. Mr. Rub-Dub
22. To facilitate re-assembly of the roller bearings in the inlet casing, the bearings and sleeves
should be _______________.
a. heated
b. chilled
c. lubricated
23. True or False. If the inner bearing races of the rotors are to be removed, they should be
heated with a double tip torch.
24. The new inner bearing races of the rotors must be heated to _______________ °F in an
oven or oil bath prior to assembly.
25. True or False. When re-assembling the rotors, the male rotor is assembled first.
26. True or False. After the rotors are re-installed, check to see if both rotors are below the
machined face of the rotor housing. The height difference should be.014 to.022 inches.
27. True or False. The outlet casing roller bearings are re-assembled using the same technique
as for the inlet casing bearings.
28. The proper end clearance for the rotor is _______________ to _______________ inches
and is obtained by installing _______________.
29. True or False. The outlet casing ball bearings must be chilled for at least one half hour
before re-assembling them.
30. True or False. It may be necessary to heat the motor rotor in order to get it installed on the
shaft.
31. The motor air gap after reassembly should be from _______________ to _______________
inches.
a. .038, .047
b. .020, .030
c. .017, .037
 Tool List
• A Gantry or adequate rigging
• 2-ton chain fall
• Guide bolts
• A temperature stick 225-250°F
• Two 16mm x 3cm long flush mount eye bolts
• Depth micrometer (6-inch head)
• Dial indicator with a magnetic base (.001 inch graduations)
• Large snap ring pliers
• Punch set
• Outside micrometer 0" to 3"
• Double-tipped torch
• Assortment of sleeves and shaft protectors
• Plastic hammers
• A suitable set of open end wrenches
• Torque wrenches 0-50 and 0-200 ft.-lbs.
• Nylon slings
• Universal swivel sockets - 1/2 and 3/8 inch drive
• Socket set 6-19mm
• Allen wrenches 2-19mm
• Socket Allen wrenches 2-19mm
• End clearance tool
 • Roller bearing removal puller
• Blind collet-type bearing puller
• Inlet sleeve and bearing removal tool
• Rotor bearing removal tool
• Tiffin strips
• T-Bar measuring tool for end clearance check (make up locally)
• Motor rotor removal tool (puller)
• Tap 1/2 - 13 UNC
• O-ring grease
• Feeler gauges
• Megohmmeter
• "C" hook stator tool
• Stator alignment key push tool
• PVC tool
• Jacking bolts
Additional Materials:
• O-rings and filters
• Loctite
• Oil
• Dry ice
• Scotch Brite
 23XL Quiz Key

Answer Paragraph
Familiarization
1. True 23
2. metric, American 24
3. True 10
4. False 10
5. b 02
6. a 16
7. c 19, 20
8. False 14, 15
9. SMM 20
10. False 12
11. True 12
12. b 04, 5
Answer Paragraph
Disassembly Procedures
13. b 30
14. True 35
15. c 39
16. d 44
17. a 44
18. a, c 50
19. False 47
20. pipe plugs 54

Compressor Reassembly
21. b 60
22. b 60
23. True 62
24. 250°F 63
25. True 64
Answer Paragraph
Compressor Reassembly (Continued)
26. True 66
27. True 67
28. .004, .006, shims 72
29. False 73
30. True 83
31. a 86
Click here for Rotor End Clearance Worksheet

Click here for 23XL Casings — Male Side View

Click here for 23XL Casings — Top Sectional View

Click here for 23XL Casings — Top View and Female Side View

Click here for Slide Valve Assembly — Two Piece Casing Shown

Click here for Slide Casing (Internal and External)

Click here for Rotor Bearings

Click here for 200 Ton Screw Compressor Torque Specification Chart for Metric
and American Fasteners

Click here for Refrigerant — Oil Flow Schematic

Figure 1 — 23XL Compressor Chiller
Figure 2 — 23XL Chiller
Figure 3 — Economizer
Figure 4 — Compressor
Figure 5 — Capacity Control Mechanism
Figure 6 — Compressor Capacity
Figure 7 — Load Signal
Figure 8 — Valve Operating Shaft, Full Extension
Figure 9 — Operator Shaft Retraction
Figure 10 — Oil Separator
Figure 11 — Condenser
Figure 12 — Electric Heater
Figure 13 — Shell and Tube Construction
Figure 14 — Float Valve
Figure 15 — Refrigerant Isolation Valves
Figure 16 — Economizer Vessel
Figure 17 — Power Panel
Figure 18 – Factory Mounted Starter
Figure 19 — Electro-Mechanical Starter Panel
Figure 20 — Solid State Starter
Figure 21 — Control Panel
Figure 22 — PIC Control Panel (Front)
Figure 23 — Local Interface Device (LID)
Figure 24 — Disassembling the Compressor
Figure 25 — Removing Solenoids
Figure 26 — Motor Terminal Cover
Figure 27 — Oil Supply Line
Figure 28 — Motor Cooling Line
Figure 29 — Compressor Disassembly
Figure 30 — Slide Valve Assembly
Figure 31 — Spring Retainer Assembly Removal
Figure 32 — Bearing Spacers
Figure 33 — Measuring Thrust or Rotor End Clearance
Figure 34 — Motor End Cover Removal
Figure 35 — Motor Casing Removal
Figure 36 — Motor Casing
Figure 37 — Rotor
Figure 38 — Rigging the Rotor
Figure 39 — Outlet Casing
Figure 40 — Check Valve Flapper
Figure 41 — Guide Bolt Locations
Figure 42 — Rotor Bearing Removal Tool
Figure 43 — Outlet Casing/Rotor Casing
Figure 44 — Bearings
Figure 45 — Roller Bearing Puller
Figure 46 — Rotors
Figure 47 — Removing Female Rotor
Figure 48 — Removing Male Rotor
Figure 49 — Supporting Removed Rotors
Figure 50 — Rotor Inspection
Figure 51 — Rotor Bores
Figure 52 — Rotor Casing Removal
Figure 53 — Removing Female Inlet Case Bearing Sleeve
Figure 54 — Slide Valve Disassembly
Figure 55 — Slide Valve Rigging
Figure 56 — Slide Casing and Piston
Figure 57 — Capacity Rod
Figure 58 — Separator Plate
Figure 59 — Slide Seal Adaptor
Figure 60 — Compressor Reassembly
Figure 61 — Rotor Casing
Figure 62 — Rotors
Figure 63 — Heating Roller Bearings
Figure 64 — Male Rotor Replacement
Figure 65 — Female Rotor Replacement
Figure 66 — Rotor Measure to Housing
Figure 67 — Outlet Casing Reassembly
Figure 68 — Nylon Sleeve
Figure 69 — Outlet Casing Rigging
Figure 70 — End Clearance (Rotors)
Figure 71 — Outer/Inner Bearing Spacer
Figure 72 — Shim Calculation
Figure 73 — Outlet Casing Ball Bearings
Figure 74 — Bearing Replacement
Figure 75 — Torque Rotor Bearing Bolts
Figure 76 — T-Bar Tool/Dial Indicator
Figure 77 — Slide Valve
Figure 78 — Slide Valve Piston
Figure 79 — O-Ring/Slide Valve Casing
Figure 80 — Slide Assembly
Figure 81 — Slide Valve Assembly
Figure 82 — Slide Valve Rigging
Figure 83 — Rotor Shaft
Figure 84 — Stator Replacement
Figure 85 — Motor Casing
Figure 86 — Compressor
Figure 87 — Motor End Cover O-Ring
Figure 88 — Completed Chiller Assembly (Front View)
Figure 89 — Completed Chiller Assembly (Rear View)
Rotor End Clearance Worksheet
23XL Casings — Male Side View
23XL Casings — Top Sectional View
 23XL Casings — Top View

23XL Casings — Female Side View

Slide Valve Assembly — Two Piece Casing Shown
Slide Casing (Internal and External)
Rotor Bearings
Refrigerant - Oil Flow Schematic