Portfolio

Issue 63 ■ March 2011

Exclusive to Emirates First Class and Business Class

SMALLER IS BETTER
Detroit Goes Green

SOUND BUSINESS
Rock ‘n’ Roll Camp

FORMULA ONE
High-Octane Money

Michael Harmer
Justice for All emirates.com
0UREADRENALIN
 This issue
March 2011

Portfolio
Exclusive to Emirates First Class and Business Class 5

Cover Story
22 Justice for All
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Features
28 A Startup With Vision 53 Leading the Way
Warby Parker, an e-commerce company that specialises Rieko Fukushima, a researcher at Toshiba, has broken
in eyeglasses, is proving that people are willing to order through the glass ceiling in the male dominated world of
glasses online and save money in the process. Japanese business.

56 Economy That Pays

32 China Looks to Central Asia Detroit is building vehicles with far better fuel economy
China regards Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, than their previous offerings and the positive effect is being
Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan as strategically important reflected in their bottom line.
for its economic growth.
60 No Business Like Snow Business
36 A Bitter Pill for Publishers When you need environmentally friendly, artificial snow for a
The iPad is full of promise for publishers seeking to movie shoot there’s only one company to call: Snow Cel.
monetise their content. But so far Apple’s no subscription
policy is seriously undermining their efforts.
60

42 The Grater That Escaped

Richard Grace thought he had made the perfect product
for woodwork, instead his Microplane ended up in kitchens
across the world.

48 Fast Company
Formula One is a multi-billion industry that is controlled
by F1 Supremo Bernie Ecclestone.

48
6 Portfolio
78
Departments
9 Notebook
World business in a nutshell.
15 Observer
Spotting and analysing business trends.
20 Column: Matt Richtel
Reclaiming Their Heritage
Published for Emirates by
PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE.
Telephone: (+971 4) 2824060,
fax:(+971 4) 2824436,
e-mail: emirates@motivate.ae
Exclusive to Emirates First Class and Business Class
Essentials
65 Exploring Tunisia’s Ancient Past
Tunisia is filled with the remains of ancient
civilisations. The Romans, in particular, founded
many majestic cities.
70 Camp Rock
At $10,000 for a week it takes serious money to
participate in the Rock ‘n’ Roll Fantasy Camp.
But for middle-aged businesspeople it is worth
65 every penny.
74 74
74 Russian Art Attack
The Russian art scene is booming with both
local and international collectors flocking to the
many new galleries that have opened in Moscow.
78 Message In a Bottle
Every year, billions of empty water bottles end up
in landfills around the world. The little Australian
town of Bundanoon has totally banned the selling
of bottled water, and the idea is catching on.
82 Showing the Future
The new Nook Color is setting
the trends for future e-book 82
readers with its colour
touch screen.
86 Star Quality
The Mercedes GL 450
4Matic is luxurious, powerful
and comfortable. Plus it’s a
lot of fun to drive.
88 Other Business
Portfolio takes a light-
hearted look at the latest
business news.
Editor-in-Chief Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Group Editor & Managing Partner Ian Fairservice Group Senior Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published
Editor Gina Johnson Senior Editor Guido Duken Deputy Editor Nick Rice Editorial Assistant Hilda D’Souza herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy,
please contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed is
Art Director Tarak Parekh General Manager Production & Circulation S Sasidharan Production Manager the honest belief of the author based on all available
C Sudhakar Senior Advertisement Manager Jaya Balakrishnan Email: jaya@motivate.ae General Manager facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon
– Group Sales Anthony Milne Email: anthony@motivate.ae Business Development Manager Nicola Hudson by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or
Advertisement Manager Rameshwar Nepali other decisions. Articles are by their nature general,
and specialist advice should always be consulted
before any actions are taken.
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Portfolio
 Les Voyages Extraordinaires
Discover the amazing treasures of the New High Jewellery Collection
From March 16th to 19th at Art Dubaï, Madinat Jumeirah

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Dubai: Burjuman Center, 2nd floor (+971 4 351 0001) - Dubai Mall, Ground floor, Watches & Jewellery (+971 4 339 8001)
Abu Dhabi, Marina Mall (+971 2 681 1121)
Notebook
BUSINESS NEWS IN BRIEF
Dominance Has Drawbacks
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Bankers’
Numbers Game

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Portfolio
 Notebook 11

Luxury Units
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A Cheaper iPhone?
Apple is raising the stakes by working on new versions of the iPhone
that are aimed at slowing the advance of competing handsets based
on Google’s Android software.
Of particular worry for the competition is the industry rumour
than one version will be cheaper and smaller than the most recent
iPhone. That would mean that instead of targeting 25 per cent of
the global mobile-phone market, Apple would be going after 100 per
cent. Less expensive iPhones will ratchet up pressure on Nokia
Oyj, whose handsets are especially popular in Europe and some
developing markets.
Google’s share of the global smartphone market more than tripled
to 32.9 per cent in the fourth quarter, eclipsing Apple’s 16 per cent.
Apple will face another challenge as Nokia and Microsoft join forces in
smartphone development.
A cheaper iPhone would help Apple make deeper inroads in markets
such as China and India, where many shoppers opt for lower-priced
devices that don’t carry long-term contracts.

March 2011
 JUMEIR AH ZABEEL SAR AY, THE PALM JUMEIR AH, DUBAI. NOW OPEN

YOU AR E THE INSPIR ATION

You are different.
That’s why Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts are opening new hotels around the world,
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Spring 2011 Summer 2011 Fall 2011

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FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR TR AVEL PROFESSIONAL OR VISIT JUMEIR AH.COM

Dubai / London / New York & Opening Soon: Abu Dhabi / Azerbaijan / Dubai / Frankfurt / Kuwait / Maldives / Shanghai

Observer
BUSINESS NEWS IN BRIEF
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March 2011
Vintage Style,
New Design
Reproductions of vintage dresses are now a
thriving industry thanks to women who want
to look more feminine and stand out from the
crowd, reports Kate Muropy.
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16
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Portfolio
 Observer 17

The World

Top 10
WORLD’S LARGEST CORPORATIONS
Rank Company Name Country Revenues ($millions)
1. Wal-Mart Stores USA 408,214
2. Royal Dutch Shell Netherlands 285,129
3. Exxon Mobil USA 284,650
4. BP Britain 246,138
5. Toyota Motor Corp Japan 204,106
6.
7.
8.
Japan Post Holdings
Sinopec
State Grid
Japan
China
China
202,196
187,518
184,496
Profit Surge for
9.
10.
AXA
China National Petroleum
SOURCE: FORTUNE 500
France
China
175,257
165,496
German Carmakers
TOP-PAYING COMPANIES @^kfZgrÍl[b`mak^^\ZkfZd^kl%pab\aaZo^Z]]^]Z[hnmÓ/0
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1. Salesforce.com 318,323 Senior Account Executives Ma^mak^^\ZkfZd^klaZo^Z\hf[bg^]fZkd^moZen^h_Ó*.0
2. Bingham McCutchen 219,888 Associate
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3. Alston & Bird 182,681 Associate
4. Perkins Coie 182,544 Associate Z]oZg\^lbg<abgZZg]ma^NL%ma^phke]ÍlmpheZk`^lmZnmhfZkd^ml'
5. Devon Energy 172,575 Engineer MhrhmZFhmhk<hki%ma^[b``^lmZnmhfZd^k%pZlZefhlmng\aZg`^]
6. Millennium: The Takeda 166,354 Sr Oncology bgma^i^kbh]%pabe^?hk]Fhmhk<hpZlniZ[hnm/*i^k\^gm'
Oncology Company Sales Specialist
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7. Goldman Sachs 160,000 Other Exempt
8. EOG Resources 158,008 Engineer mhZ\ab^o^ma^ab`a^lm+)**hi^kZmbg`ikh_bmh_ma^mak^^%k^Z\abg`
9. Brocade Communications 156,508 Software Engineer Ó1'02[beebhg%Z\\hk]bg`mhZgZerlml'
Systems
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10. Boston Consulting Group 154,051 Consultant
SOURCE: FORTUNE 500 mZq^l"_hkmablr^Zkh_Ó.'.2[beebhg%[^lmbg`ma^+))0k^\hk]h_
AMERICA’S LARGEST CORPORATIONS Ó-'+*[beebhg'OPÍl>[bmbg+)**bl^qi^\m^]mhkbl^mh
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Rank Company Name Revenues ($millions)
1. Wal-Mart Stores 408,214
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2. Exxon Mobil 284,650 Ma^mb`amo^ab\e^lniierbl\Znlbg`]^ebo^kr]^eZrlbg@^kfZgr%
3. Chevron 163,527 ZlfZgn_Z\mnk^kllab_m\Zklmhma^NLZg]<abg^l^fZkd^ml'
4. General Electric 156,779
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5. Bank of America Corp 150,450
6. ConocoPhillips 139,515 mh*+'2p^^dlhgZo^kZ`^\hfiZk^]pbmaZmrib\ZepZbmbg`i^kbh]
7. AT&T 123,018 h_^b`amp^^dl'
8. Ford Motor 118,308
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9. J.P. Morgan Chase & Co. 115,632
10. Hewlett-Packard 114,552 fhgmal_hkZ\Zk[^\Znl^h_Zghk]^k[Z\deh`%kZma^kmaZgma^
SOURCE: FORTUNE 500
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March 2011
18
A Boom for
India’s Hamptons
GETTY IMAGES
Alibaug, close to Mumbai, is luring India’s rich and famous.
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Bahrain Boosts
Oil Output
Non-OPEC oil producer Bahrain has boosted its
oil production to 40,000 barrels per day (bpd) from
32,000 bpd after the country started to overhaul its
main oilfield.
Abdul-Hussain bin Ali Mirza, head of the National
Oil and Gas Authority (NOGA), said this was the first
increase since the late 1970s.
Bahrain started to overhaul its main oilfield last year
after US-based Occidental Petroleum Corp and the
United Arab Emirates’ Mubadala Development Co
agreed to invest $15 billion to develop the Bahrain field.
Bahrain is targeting output capacity of 100,000 bpd
by 2017. Oil is the main source of income for Bahrain’s
government, and higher output will help the island
kingdom tackle mounting fiscal pressures due to a
rising subsidies bill.
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Portfolio

TEXT: HILDA D’SOUZA
O N E 2 W AT C H
Gerard Kleisterlee
UK-based telecommunications giant Vodafone has announced
plans to appoint Philip’s outgoing CEO Gerard Kleisterlee
as its new chairman. The German-born Kleisterlee will
replace Sir John Bond at the annual general meeting in July.
Kleisterlee has been a clear top runner in a list of three senior
international business leaders for the top position. Market
GETTY IMAGES
reaction to the appointment has been positive, with shares
rallying 0.6 per cent.
Vodafone, since the middle of last year, has been selling
off its stakes. That makes the 64-year-old Kleisterlee
perfect for the job, as he was instrumental in simplifying the
unwieldy Philips conglomerate. However, he will be facing a
stern challenge streamlining Vodafone’s sprawling portfolio,
focusing on emerging markets and using his knowledge of the
consumer electronics industry to full advantage. But his first
priority as the new chairman will be raising Verizon Wireless’
dividend that has been lagging since 2005. This is of critical
importance as Vodafone has a 45 per cent stake in the US
mobile operator company.
Kleisterlee said, “I am looking forward greatly to this
new challenge, to contributing to this company’s record
of success, and to be building on John’s outstanding
achievements.” Kleisterlee will start out as a non-executive
director at Vodafone on April 1.
March 2011
Observer 19
Chinese Developers
Change Strategy
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 20
Commentary
MATT RICHTEL
Reclaiming Their Heritage
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© 2011 GUARDIAN NEWS SERVICE
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REUTERS
Wealthy Chinese are pushing up the prices
at UK auction houses.
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 22
Profile

Portfolio
 23

JUSTICE
FOR ALL
Michael Harmer’s belief in
justice is deeply ingrained.
His law firm has won many
landmark cases, but the man
dubbed ‘The Undertaker’ is no
stereotypical lawyer, reports
Antonella Gambotto-Burke.

February 2011
N COURT, HE IS KNOWN AS
THE UNDERTAKER.
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Portfolio
 25

Profile
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Above: Harmer with his wife Dr Neeru
Chadda and his daughter Daya and son
Rama. They live in a modest house in
Sydney’s northern suburbs.
Top right: Harmer is the President of
the Australian Institute of Employment
Rights (AIER). His first formal job was
as a solicitor for the New South Wales
Department of Industrial Relations, which
formed his interest in employee rights.
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Zmma^FZmma^pMZe[hmAhlm^ebgLr]g^r'

March 2011
 26
Profile
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Harmer is a friend of Kenyan double gold medalist Kip Keino. Harmer helped set up Keino’s School in Kenya and a children’s home in
Zimbabwe.
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“ALIGNING MY WORK TO MY
BELIEFS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO
ME, AND UTILISING THE FRUITS
OF THAT LABOUR TO RECTIFYING
INJUSTICE IN THE WORLD HAS
ALWAYS BEEN WHAT BEING A
LAWYER IS ABOUT FOR ME.
JUSTICE IS A WAY OF LIFE.”
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Portfolio

Harmer is the first to admit that his firm's workplace culture is unorthodox, but it is one
of the fastest growing and most profitable practices in the world.
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March 2011
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27
Profile
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Those interested in aligning themselves
with Michael Harmer’s charity work
should contact him directly through:
harmers.com.au
 28
E-commerce
A STARTUP WITH VISION
Warby Parker, an LAHIIBG@L<>IMB<LL:B=I>HIE>
phne]g^o^k[nr\^kmZbgmabg`lÈlah^l%
e-commerce company
]bZfhg]kbg`l%\ZklÈhgebg^[^\Znl^ma^r
that specialises in g^^]^]mhl^^ma^ikh]n\mlbgi^klhg'
eyeglasses, is proving Ma^rp^k^pkhg`'>&\hff^k\^\hfiZgb^l
that people are willing aZo^_hng]ln\\^llbgZeeh_mahl^_b^e]l'
to order glasses online ;nmlhf^ink\aZl^llmbeeaZii^g
fhlmerh__ebg^%bg\en]bg`hg^h_ma^fhlm
and save money i^klhgZe3ik^l\kbimbhg^r^`eZll^l'PZk[r
in the process, reports IZkd^k%ZG^pRhkdlmZkmni%mabgdlbm\Zg
Claire Cain Miller. i^klnZ]^i^hie^mhlahihgebg^_hk`eZll^l%
pbmaZ\hf[bgZmbhgh__Zlabhg%ehpikb\^l%
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Portfolio
 29

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p^lZb]%par]hgÍmp^\k^Zm^Z]b__^k^gm Neil Blumenthal, left, and David Gilboa, founders of Warby Parker, an online eyeglasses
fh]^e8Ë@be[hZlZb]'ÊP^\Zg[riZllma^ distributor, at a photo shoot for their products in New York.

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k^\h`gbmbhgm^\agheh`rlhlahii^kl\Zg
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lmhk^lbg[b`\bmb^lpa^k^i^hie^\Zgmkr
hg`eZll^l[^_hk^hk]^kbg`hgebg^' Warby Parker believes in keeping its website uncluttered and simple to use. Model
ÊBmÍlo^krfn\aZg^pfh]^e%ËlZb] shoots are used to display frame choices, and facial recognition software allows
customers to upload pictures of themselves and try on virtual glasses.
Chag@^ks^fZ%ik^lb]^gmh_;kZg]
:ll^m<hglnembg`%pahlmn]b^llahiibg` @be[hZZg];enf^gmaZe%pahkng mhhk]^kiZbklbg]b__^k^gmlbs^lZg]
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lm^^k\nlmhf^klmhpZk]Zink\aZl^%pabe^ i^k\^gmZ`^h__kZf^lpZlk^mnkg^][nm labiibg`[hmapZrl'
© 2010 NEW YORK TIMES NEWS SERVICE

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March 2011
 30
E-commerce
Blumenthal and Gilboa proudly wear their own products, although Blumenthal does not need glasses. They recently hired an
experienced eyeglass designer to expand their collection.
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Portfolio
Value in
Private Banking.

For us, private banking means respecting and protecting the real assets.
Also yours: +971 4 428 82 00 or www.claridenleu.com
Clariden Leu Asset Management (Dubai) Ltd., Dubai S W I S S P R I V AT E B A N K I N G S I N C E 17 5 5

This information has been distributed by Clariden Leu Asset Management (Dubai) Limited. Related financial products or services are only available to professional clients which qualify as clients under the Dubai Financial Services Authority rules.
Clariden Leu Asset Management (Dubai) Limited is duly licensed and regulated by the Dubai Financial Services Authority (DFSA).
 32
Economics

CHINA LOOKS
TO CENTRAL ASIA
Chinese officials see Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and
Uzbekistan as strategically important. The region is rich in oil and gas and is
growing into a major market for Chinese consumer goods, reports Edward Wong.

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China is forging stronger trade ties with Central Asia.

Upgrading infrastructure, such as this road linking China
and Kyrgyzstan, is just one part of China’s widening
economic footprint.

Portfolio
 33

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“China’s energy cooperation

with Central Asian countries
began in the 1990s, but in recent
years, with the rapid growth of
China’s national strength, China
took advantage of the lack of
initiative in the region by the
United States and Russia.”
March 2011
 34
Economics
China is stimulating economic growth and consumerism in Central Asian countries. Here, Kyrgz shepherds pack a Chinese solar panel
near Rangkul, Tajikistan.
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Media

A Bitter Pill for Publishers

The iPad is full of promise for publishers seeking to monetise their content.
But so far Apple’s no subscription policy is seriously undermining their
efforts, reports Jeremy Peters.

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 38
Media

REUTERS
Jon Miller, (left) CEO of Digital Media Group and Jesse Angelo, editor of The Daily, unveiled News Corp’s latest iPad news publication
on February 2. News Corp has a subscription agreement with Apple.

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Media

Robert Sauerberg, president of Conde Nast, is

looking forward to the iPad getting some serious
competition.

The tablet market is a viable business opportunity for publishers as the devices
allow for better picture quality, magazine format presentation, and more
interactive content.
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Innovation

THE GRATER
THAT ESCAPED
Richard Grace thought he had made the perfect tool for woodwork, instead his
Microplane ended up in kitchens across the world, reports John Edge.

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Richard Grace, founder of Grace Manufacturing, holds several Microplane grater blades
on the production floor at the manufacturing facility in Russellville, Arkansas.
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Hma^kl[hn`amFb\khieZg^l[^\Znl^ma^

March 2011
44
Above: Gabrielle Campbell, left, and Rebecca Nance
inspect uncut medical tools after they were stamped.
Right: The Microplane grater was initially designed for
woodwork, but found popularity in the kitchen instead.
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Portfolio
 46
Innovation
Microplane now manufactures a complete range. From left: A hacksaw blade, Classic Zester, Classic Series Zester Grater, Home
Series Fine Grater, Personal Care Paddle Foot File, Premium Classic Series Fine Grater and the Artisan Series Fine Grater.
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“Among Richard Grace’s
long-term projects is
the development of a
stainless-steel version of
sandpaper, a goal that,
if realised, could return
the company to the
woodworking forefront.”
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Portfolio
K?<=LKLI<9<CFE>JKFK?FJ<N?FGC8E
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 48
Sport
FAST COMPANY
Formula One is a multi-billion dollar industry that is controlled by F1 Supremo
Bernie Ecclestone. Just where does the money come from and where does it go
is the question asked by Tony Smart.
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Portfolio
 49

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March 2011
 50
Sport

GETTYU IMAGES
Red Bull Racing Team Principle Christian Horner talks to Carlos Rookie Sergio Perez got a seat at the struggling Swiss
Slim, the world’s richest man. Formula One teams survive by getting Formula One team Sauber. The team has four sponsors
sponsorship from multinational corporations. from Switzerland.

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Bernie Ecclestone built
Formula One into the huge ?hkfneZHg^m^Zfl'Ma^mhmZeli^g]h_Zee
GRAPHEAST

business it is today. **m^Zflbg+))/pZl^lmbfZm^]Zm+'2

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Portfolio

Claudio Steffenoni, Toto Wolff, Sir Frank Williams, Patrick Head and Adam Parr
announced that Williams will be listing on the Frankfurt stock exchange. The listing is
expected be worth around $94 million.
The slowest teams on the grid also attract the least sponsorship. This HRT's livery
indicates where potential sponsors could put their logos, for a price.
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51
Sport
Driver Pastor Maldonando reportedly
brought a €10 million sponsorship to
Williams to secure a seat.
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LEADING THE WAY
Rieko Fukushima, a researcher at Toshiba, has broken through the glass ceiling. In Japan
only 65 per cent of college educated women are employed, which makes Fukushima’s
success all the more remarkable, reports Hiroko Tabuchi.
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53
Inspiration
Rieko Fukushima
is among the
growing number
of women in
Japan with
children and
careers.
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REUTERS
Norio Sasaki, president of Toshiba,
presides over a company that strives
to create a hospitable environment for
working women.
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Portfolio
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WWWPORSCHE DESIGNCOM
 56
Motoring

Ford’s plant in Wayne,

Michigan, has been retooled
at a cost of $500 million to
manufacture four progressively
more fuel-efficient versions of
the Focus.

ECONOMY THAT PAYS

Detroit is building vehicles with far better fuel economy M>GR>:KL:@H%MA>?HK=

than their previous offerings and the positive effect is FhmhkieZgmbgPZrg^%Fb\ab`Zg%\ankg^]

being reflected in their bottom line, reports Bill Vlasic.
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58
Curtis Giles demonstrates
the door testing station at the
Ford Motor plant in Wayne.
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March 2011
William Clay Ford Jr Ford Motor Company chairman, with Alan Mulally, Ford’s chief
executive, during a media preview at the company’s plant in Wayne.
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59
Motoring
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 60
Profile

NO BUSINESS
LIKE SNOW BUSINESS
When you need environmentally friendly, artificial snow for a movie shoot, stage
production or function there’s one company to call. SnowCel, started in 1982 by Darcey
Crownshaw, has grown to international stature, reports Ron Toft.

Portfolio

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March 2011
Darcey Crownshaw started making high-quality fake snow from recycled paper at his
kitchen table. Today, his company SnowCel has an annual turnover of £3 million.
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61
Profile
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 62
Profile
No job is too big or small for SnowCel. Here the Babbacombe Model Village in England gets a fresh coating of artificial snow.
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Portfolio
 63

Profile
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P^Zk^gÍmZeehp^]mhgZf^ma^\hfiZgr SnowCel has many different types of artificial snow. Deep snow was required to convey
the message in this VW commercial.
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ma^NDÍlihineZk<hkhgZmbhgLmk^^mZg]
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ma^OZg\hno^kHerfib\l"hk%r^l%Z[b`
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ma^jnb^m^lmlghp`^g^kZmbg`fZ\abg^l
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maZmikh]n\^lni^keb`amZlak^l^f[ebg`
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fZ\abg^"Zg]pZqkb`l!ma^l^p^k^
bgbmbZeer]^lb`g^]mh]k^ll^o^krmabg`_khf
Z\mhklZg]]^eb\Zm^ikhilmhan`^Zk^Zlbg
Ma^=Zr:_m^kMhfhkkhp"'
Lghp;nlbg^llahe]lma^@nbgg^ll The Chronicles of Narnia set is covered with artificial snow. SnowCell has worked on
numerous movies that have won special effects Oscars.
Phke]K^\hk]_hkma^[b``^lmZk^Z^o^k
\ho^k^]pbmaZkmb_b\bZe_Zeebg`lghpÈG^p *))i^hie^bgma^NDZg]+))`eh[Zeer' blln^lZg]mkrghmmh[^\hf^bgoheo^]bg
;hg]Lmk^^m%;hg]Lmk^^mZg]He];hg] L^o^kZer^ZklZ`h%=Zk\^rpZl]bZ`ghl^] ]Zr&mh&]Zrblln^l';nmbmÍlaZk]mhe^m`h'
Lmk^^mlbfnemZg^hnlerbgEhg]hg' pbma\Zg\^k'ÊMaZmk^Zeer_h\nl^lrhnkeb_^' Ê:l_ZkZlma^_nmnk^bl\hg\^kg^]%bmÍl
Ma^\hfiZgraZg]e^lZkhng],)) B_bg]BghpehhdZmma^phke]%Zg]kngfr fhk^h_ma^lZf^'P^g^o^kk^lmhghnk
ch[lZr^Zk_khfbmlNDa^Z]jnZkm^kl [nlbg^llZ__Zbkl%bgZ]b__^k^gmpZr';^_hk^ eZnk^elZg]Zk^\hglmZgmerinlabg`[Z\d
Zg]ZlbfbeZkgnf[^k_khfbmlh__b\^lbg frbeeg^llBpZlZepZrlik^h\\nib^]pbma m^\agheh`b\ZeZg]hma^k_khgmb^klmhd^^i
++\hngmkb^l'ÊP^aZo^Zek^Z]r]hg^Z mkrbg`mh\e^Zkma^g^qmank]e^'Lbg\^ma^g Za^Z]h_ma^`Zf^'Ë
gnf[^kh_ch[lbg=n[Zb%[nmaZo^ieZgl BÍo^[^`ngmhZiik^\bZm^paZmBÍo^k^Zeer`hm' Ma^dbm\a^gmZ[e^hgpab\a=Zk\^r
Z_hhmmh^qiZg]hnkphkd\hglb]^kZ[er Pa^gBmhhdZr^Zkhnm_hkf^]b\Zek^Zlhgl% [^`Zgabl[nlbg^llh\\nib^lZikhfbg^gm
bgma^N:>'Ë ma^[nlbg^llfZ]^fhk^fhg^rpbmahnmf^ ieZ\^bgabl\hfiZgrÍlk^\^imbhgZk^Z'ÊB
Ma^\hfiZgr%pab\aaZlZgZggnZe Ghhg^blbg]bli^glZ[e^'GhpBZfZikhi^k \hne]g^o^k`^mkb]h_maZm'BmÍlZk^fbg]^k
mnkgho^kh_Zkhng]›,fbeebhg%^fiehrl F=bgmaZmB]^ZefZbgerpbmalmkZm^`b\ h_ahp_ZkBÍo^\hf^'Ë■

March 2011
 The main attraction in El Kef is the Byzantine
kasbah. It lies near the top of the city, rising out of

Essentials
the old medina. It used to be the site of a series of
fortresses dating back to the 5th century BC.65
Travel

Essentials
THE BEST OF LEISURE AND LIFESTYLE

EXPLORING
TUNISIA’S
ANCIENT PAST
The Romans founded majestic new cities after
having annihilated the menace of Carthage
in what is today Tunisia. Ancient cities such
as Regia, Sbeitla, Dougga, Utica and Bizerte
became centres of Roman commerce, supplying
the empire with oil and wheat. This ancient
wealth is still visible in Tunisia’s spectacular
Roman ruins, reports Alessandro Gandolfi.
March 2011
66

a   EFHLM
ghmabg`k^fZbglh_e^`^g]Zkr<ZkmaZ`^%
ma^\ZibmZeh_ma^Ingb\^fibk^maZm
]hfbgZm^]fn\ah_ma^mkZ]^bgma^
F^]bm^kkZg^ZgL^Z[^mp^^gma^^b`ama
Zg]ma^l^\hg]\^gmnkb^l;<'E^Zobg`
MngblZg]]kbobg`^Zlmmhma^`ne_Zg]
ma^kb\aln[nk[lh_ma^lZf^gZf^%rhn
l^^hgerZ_^p\henfglZg]ma^lbm^h_
ma^l^Zihkm%pab\aehhdlmhpZk]lLb\ber'
<hgmkheho^kmablbleZg]]hfZbgbgma^
fb]]e^h_ma^F^]bm^kkZg^ZgpZlma^
fZbg\Znl^_hkma^\eZla[^mp^^gKhf^
Zg]<ZkmaZ`^'Ma^pZkmhhdieZ\^bgmak^^
iaZl^l%eZlm^]Z\^gmnkr%Zg]e^]mhma^
\hfie^m^ZggbabeZmbhgh_ma^Ingb\\ZibmZe'
<ZkmaZ`^pZlk^[hkgZ_m^kmph
\^gmnkb^lZlZKhfZg\hehgrng]^kma^
Z^`blh_:n`nlmnl%ma^Z]him^]lhgh_
Cnebnl<Z^lZk%pahfZ]^bmma^\ZibmZe
h_ma^KhfZgikhobg\^h_:_kb\Z%ma^
:_kb\ZIkh\hglneZkbl'BmpZlZeZg]
kb\abgZ`kb\nemnkZe[hngmr3ghmhger
hebo^hbe[nmZelh/)i^k\^gmh_Zeema^
PARALLELOZERO / TCS

\^k^Zel\hglnf^][rma^KhfZg>fibk^ Thuburbo Majus is a huge archeological

site. The city was extremely wealthy in
hkb`bgZm^]a^k^'LeZo^l%`he]%bohkr%hlmkb\a Roman times thanks to its exports of
_^Zma^klZg]ZgbfZelp^k^ZelhfZchk olive oil and wheat.

Portfolio
 Essentials
Travel
67

^qihkml%pabe^ma^pZkfMngblbZg
\hZlmZelhZmmkZ\m^]p^ZemarKhfZgl
Zlp^eeZlpZko^m^kZgl^gchrbg`Z
p^ee&]^l^ko^]k^mbk^f^gm'
>qiehkbg`ma^k^fgZgmlh_KhfZg
MngblbZ_heehplZ\bk\neZkkhnm^maZm
lmZkmlbgMngblZg]_heehplma^lhnma^kg
khZ]hnmh_ma^\bmrZehg`AZ]kbZgÍl
Zg\b^gmZjn^]n\mmhMan[nk[hFZcnl'
Lbqmrdbehf^mk^llhnmap^lmh_Mngbl
pZlma^_bklmlmhih_frbmbg^kZkr3ma^
oZlmMan[nk[hFZcnlZk\aZ^heh`b\Ze
lbm^'A^k^rhn\ZgpZm\aZk\aZ^heh`blml
aZk]Zmphkd'Lhf^p^k^]b``bg`g^Zk
ma^<Zibmhe%pabe^hma^klp^k^nlbg`
lfZee\abl^elmh\e^Zgma^fhlZb\l
_hng]bgma^obeeZlh_mabl\bmr%pab\a
pZl_hng]^][rma^Iah^gb\bZgl'
Man[nk[hFZcnl`k^p_nkma^kng]^k
“Exploring the remnants
ma^KhfZglpa^ghebo^hbe%pbg^Zg] of Roman Tunisia follows A reconstruction of what Carthage looked
like. The city was protected by huge walls
pa^Zm]^iZkm^]_khfa^k^mhKhf^!Z a circular route that starts and a well-trained navy that dominated
ikhli^kbmrmaZme^]mhma^\hglmkn\mbhg
in Tunis and follows the the Mediterranean for centuries.
h_mphma^kfZe[Zmal"'
Fhk^li^\mZ\neZkmaZgMan[nk[h
southern road out of bgMngblbZZg]bmmZd^lZme^Zlmhg^_nee]Zr
FZcnlblma^g^Zk[r=hn``Z!Man``Z the city along Hadrian’s mh]hbmma^cnlmb\^bm]^l^ko^l'NG>L<H
bg:kZ[b\"%*))dbehf^mk^lmhma^p^lm ancient aqueduct to jnZeb_b^]=hn``ZZlZPhke]A^kbmZ`^
hgZ.))&f^mk^&ab`aieZm^Zn'=hn``Z Thuburbo Majus.” Lbm^bg*220%lmZmbg`maZmbmk^ik^l^gml
blhg^h_ma^fhlmoblbm^]KhfZglbm^l Ìma^[^lm&ik^l^ko^]KhfZglfZeemhpgbg
Ghkma:_kb\ZÍ'=hn``Z[^\Zf^Z\hehgrbg
+/*:=Zg]ma^lbm^lmbeeaZl\hehggZ]^l%
m^fie^l%[Zmal%mkbnfiaZeZk\a^l%obeeZl
Zg]Zma^Zmk^%Zlp^eeZlma^Ahnl^h_
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ghpbgma^;Zk]hFnl^nfbgMngbl'
=kbobg`p^lm_hkZghma^k1)dbehf^mk^l%
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rhnZkkbo^Zmma^bg\k^]b[e^;neeZK^`bZ
!\ehl^mhma^fh]^kgmhpgh_C^g]hn[Z"%
ma^ieZ\^pa^k^ma^KhfZgl\hirbg`
ma^FZmfZmZÍl;^k[^klmre^!hkfZr[^
bmpZlma^KhfZglpahikhob]^]ma^
bglibkZmbhg8"mhhdla^em^k_khfma^a^Zm[r
]b``bg`bgmkb\Zm^ng]^k`khng]obeeZl'
;^_hk^`hbg`]hpgmhma^obeeZlB
lmkhee^]Zfhg`m^fie^l%iZo^]lmk^^ml
Zg]p^ee&ik^l^ko^]ma^Zmk^lm^il!ma^_bklm
_be^laZ]pb]^kl^Zml%]^]b\Zm^]mhma^
\^e^[kbmb^lh_ma^mbf^%h_\hnkl^"';nmma^
fZbgZmmkZ\mbhgblk^ik^l^gm^][rma^kZk^
The magnificent Roman amphitheatre in El-Djem, which was called Thysdrus under
Roman rule. ng]^k`khng]ahnl^l%pab\aZk^ikh[Z[er

March 2011
68
ngbjn^bgma^KhfZgphke]'Ma^rp^k^
ma^ahf^lh_kb\ai^hie^%pbmal^o^kZe
ng]^k`khng]khhflZkkZg`^]Zkhng]
Z\^gmkZe\hnkmrZk]Zg]ma^rZk^lmbee
Z]hkg^]pbmak^_bg^]fhlZb\l'
?khf;neeZK^`bZbmpZllhnmamhpZk]l
FZdamZk%lmhiibg`aZe_pZr^gkhnm^Zm
ma^pabm^Zg]ie^ZlZgm>eD^_obeeZ`^%
pab\apZlhg\^ma^Zg\b^gmKhfZgmhpg
h_O^g^kbZLb\\Z'Ghmabg`k^fZbglh_
ma^KhfZgiZlmbg>eD^_^q\^imZ_^p
lmZmn^lh_Ingb\hkb`bgbgma^`k^Zm\Zlme^
ho^kehhdbg`ma^obeeZ`^'
INGB<%;NMZelhEb[rZgZg]Gnfb]bZg%
Zk^ma^lmkhg`bg_en^g\^lmaZmrhn\Zg
Little remains of the original
Carthage, which stood close to
today’s Sidi Bou Said.
The Bardo Museum in Tunis
houses the world's best collection
of Roman mosaics.
^gchrZmFZdamZk%bgma^fb]]e^h_
ghkma^kgMngblbZ'=^libm^ma^KhfZg
]hfbgZmbhgma^k^pZlZgbgm^gl^k^eb`bhnl
Zg]\nemnkZe\hgg^\mbhgpbmama^iZlmZg]
^o^gmh]Zrlm^e^lZg]bgl\kbimbhglm^lmb_r
mhmabla^kbmZ`^';nmbmpZlpa^gma^\bmr
h__b\bZeer[^\Zf^ZKhfZg\hehgrmaZm
ma^`k^Zmfhgnf^gmlln\aZlma^_hknf%
ma^:k\ah_MkZcZg%ma^;ZmalZg]ma^
M^fie^h_:iheehp^k^[nbem'Lmbee%ghmabg`
^jnZelma^fZc^lmrh_ma^_hknfZg]ma^
mak^^m^fie^lh_ma^\Zibmheh_L[^bmeZ%ma^
Zg\b^gmLn_^mneZ!*+)dbehf^mk^llhnma
h_FhdamZk"%pab\apZleZm^k\hgjn^k^]
[rma^:kZ[lbg/-0:=bgZ[Zmme^lmbee
k^f^f[^k^]bgBleZfb\ablmhkr'
BZkkbo^]ZmL[^bmeZbgma^^Zkerfhkgbg`
Zg]li^gmma^^gmbk^]Zroblbmbg`ma^.)
Z\k^lh_eZg]\ho^k^]pbmaZk\aZ^heh`b\Ze
k^fZbgl'Ma^l^k^fZbglZk^pbmg^ll^lh_
Z`ehkbhnlZg]kb\aiZlm%_^][rma^fZgr
hebo^mk^^lmaZmlnkkhng]ma^\bmr'Rhn\Zg
Portfolio
 Essentials
Travel
69

A temple at Sbeitla
illuminated at night.
This ancient site
covers 50 acres.

l^^ma^Zk\ah_=bh\e^mbZgmhma^lhnma% h_L[^bmeZ%[^mp^^g At Bulla Regia the Romans

dug large underground villas
i^k_^\merik^l^ko^]%ma^eZk`^[ZmalZg] Lhnll^Zg]L_Zq'Ma^
to escape the desert heat.
ma^;rsZgmbg^\ank\a^l'Ienlma^k^Zk^ma^ Zfiabma^Zmk^blma^
\ZibmheÍlmak^^m^fie^l]^]b\Zm^]mhCnibm^k% phke]Ílmabk]eZk`^lm
CnghZg]Fbg^koZ%[nbemhgZgZkmb_b\bZe !Z_m^kKhf^Íl<hehll^nfZg]<ZinZbg fZlm^kib^\^lZk^ghehg`^ka^k^Zll^o^kZe
abeeho^kehhdbg`ma^iZo^]_hknfpab\abl lhnma^kgBmZer"Zg]]hfbgZm^]ma^ h_ma^[^lmfhlZb\laZo^[^^g[khn`ammh
[hk]^k^][rmphkhplh_\henfgl'Bgma^ Zg\b^gmKhfZg\bmrh_Marl]knl%Z\^gmk^ ma^;Zk]hFnl^nfhgma^hnmldbkmlh_
^o^gbg`ma^l^bfik^llbo^knbglZk^Zkm_neer _hkmkZ]^Zg]\hff^k\^kb\apbmahebo^ Mngblbgma^Zg\b^gmk^lb]^g\^h_ma^;^r'
ebm%fZdbg`_hkZgng_hk`^mmZ[e^lb`am' `kho^l%`Zk]^gl%obeeZl%Zg]]^\hkZm^][r :g]bmblZmma^;Zk]hFnl^nfpa^k^
eZk`^fhlZb\l' ma^^qiehkZmbhgh_KhfZgMngblbZ^g]l'
NG?HK@>MM:;E>%MHH%blma^ob^ph_ Ma^Zkmh_fhlZb\lbllmbeeZebo^a^k^% Pbmama^[b``^lm^qab[bmbhgh_KhfZg
ma^>eC^fZfiabma^Zmk^%Zgng^qi^\m^] Zg]Zkhng]ma^\bmrbmblihllb[e^mh_bg] fhlZb\lbgma^phke]rhn\Zgehl^rhnkl^e_
Zg]bfik^llbo^ik^l^g\^bgma^\^gmk^ phkdlahilpa^k^aZg]fZ]^phkdl _hkahnklbgma^\hkkb]hklZg]\hnkmrZk]l
h_fh]^kg>eC^f%+))dbehf^mk^l^Zlm Zk^lhe]'FZgrh_ma^hkb`bgZe>e&C^f h_ma^fnl^nf'
Ma^l\^g^lh__blabg`%ma^\r\e^h_
“The amphitheatre is the world’s third largest (after l^Zlhgl%Zg]ma^\hee^\mbhgh_ma^hebo^
hbeZg]pa^ZmmaZmmkZgl_hkf^]MngblbZ
Rome’s Colosseum and Capua in southern Italy) and
bgmhhg^h_ma^fhlmikhli^khnleZg]lh_
dominated the ancient Roman city of Thysdrus, a KhfZgZgmbjnbmrpbeeebg`^kbgma^fbg]
centre for trade and commerce rich with olive groves, Zlehg`Zlma^chnkg^rmakhn`aMngblbZÈZ
gardens, villas, and decorated by large mosaics.” \hngmkrpa^k^ma^iZlmZg]ik^l^gmebo^
i^Z\^_neerZehg`lb]^^Z\ahma^k'■

March 2011
70 Essentials
Music
Jeff Boico, left, and Brian
Marshall take a bow after
their band Unusual Suspects
performed at the final
concert of Rock ‘n’ Roll
Fantasy Camp.

CAMP ROCK
At $10,000 for a week it takes serious money to participate
in the Rock ‘n’ Roll Fantasy Camp. But for middle-aged
businesspeople it is worth every penny, reports Larry Rohter.

L
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Zg]`nbmZkib\dlmhZ\a^^kbg`\khp]'
© 2011 New York Times News Service
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ma^\k^Zmbhgh_=Zob]?blah_%Z_hkf^k
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Portfolio
 71

Above: Members of the ‘Dicksteins,’ named after lead singer

Mark Dickstein, centre, get ready to take the stage at B.B. King’s
Blues Club and Grill in New York.
Right: Robert Schomaker paces in a backstage corridor before his
performance.

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Pbg`^k'ÊBmÍl_ngmh[^Z[e^mhf^^mma^l^
`nrlZli^hie^%ËFng`^klZb]'ÊBÍfZmZ

March 2011
72

Arthur Lauretano, left, gets some encouragement

from Mark Hudson, songwriter and producer.

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frfhg^rhgmabg`lBÍfiZllbhgZm^Z[hnm%
Zg]BÍfZ[lhenm^er\kZsrZ[hnmfnlb\'Ë
?hkma^\ZfibgG^pRhkd%fhk^maZg
/)fnlb\bZglZg]lbg`^kl^gkhee^]!f^g
ln[lmZgmbZeerhnmgnf[^k^]phf^g%Zg]
`nbmZkblmlln[lmZgmbZeerhnmgnf[^k^]
Zgrhma^kmri^h_ieZr^k"%iZrbg`ni
mh*)%)))_hklbq]Zrlh_\ZfiZg]
k^\hk]bg`Zg].%)))_hkZ_hnk&]Zr
iZ\dZ`^'Fhlmh_ma^\Zfi^klZk^
ln\\^ll_ne^q^\nmbo^lhkikh_^llbhgZel3Z
_hng]^kh_ma^HkZ\e^\hfinm^k\hfiZgr%
Zi^klhgZe&bgcnkreZpr^k%ZF\=hgZe]Íl
_kZg\abl^^pahl^_Zma^kbgo^gm^]ma^ Members of Unusual Suspects warm up backstage. Many of the campers are regulars,
with Ed Oates, a founder of Oracle holding the record with nine camps.
;b`FZ\%ZieZlmb\lnk`^hg%ik^lb]^gmlh_
a^Zema\Zk^Zg]l^Z_hh]\hfiZgb^l'
“Most of the campers are successful executives or
;NM?HKlhf^hma^kieZr^kl%ebd^Pbee professionals: a founder of the Oracle computer
L^Ze^r%ZgZ__Z[e^%mZe^gm^]+-&r^Zk&he] company, a personal-injury lawyer, a McDonald’s
]knff^k_khf>g`eZg]pahblZkZ[b]
_Zgh_Ma^Pah%ma^\hffbmf^gmk^jnbk^l
franchisee whose father invented the Big Mac, a
_bgZg\bZelZ\kb_b\^'A^phkd^]bgZ[hmme^ plastic surgeon, presidents of health care and
_Z\mhkrmhlZo^^ghn`afhg^r_hk\Zfibg seafood companies.”
Ehl:g`^e^l%Êma^_bklmmbf^BÍ]^o^k[^^g

Portfolio

Roger Daltrey, lead singer of The Who, works with Christy Hemme during rehearsals.
Roger Daltrey signs autographs for members of the Fantasy Camp. Daltrey has taught
at several camps and cites it as a positive experience that he enjoys.
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lmZd^Ëbgma^\hfiZgrZg]hg\^^o^g
March 2011
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maZg]kn`l%ËlZb]HZm^l%Z`nbmZkieZr^k'
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fnlb\bZglpahZk^Zelh_Z[nehnli^hie^'
Mablk^obmZebl^lnlZlfnlb\bZgl%Zg]bmZelh
Essentials
Music
73
m^Z\a^llhf^mabg`Z[hnmm^Zfphkd%
lbg\^rhnÍk^ieZrbg`pbmai^hie^rhnÍo^
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74
Essentials
Art

RUSSIAN
ART ATTACK
Art in Russia has been experiencing an unprecedented boom. Alissa Everett
reports on the Russian billionaires propping up the international art market with
record purchases at top auction houses in New York and London.

Portfolio
 75
“The newcomer making

A
the biggest splash in the
I:LLBHG?HK:KMBL
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country is contemporary
bgKnllbZ%[hma<Zma^kbg^ art, which can now be
Zg]I^m^kma^@k^Zm seen throughout the
p^k^k^ghpg^]\hee^\mhkl'<Zma^kbg^ Russian capital in a rapidly
bgiZkmb\neZklmngg^]ma^Zkmphke][r expanding set of venues.
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large industrial complexes,
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financed by Moscow’s elite,
,1%)))[hhdl4ma^k^Zk^_hnkkhhfl_bee^] are emerging across the
pbma[hhdlZg]ikbgml%*)%)))^g`kZo^] city and pushing the art
`^fl!Zg]Zghma^k,-%)))\ZlmlZg] scene from stuffy and
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The Winzavod Centre for Contemporary Art is filled with high-end galleries juxtaposed
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by graffiti and paintings on the bare stone walls.
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March 2011
76
Essentials
Art
REUTERS
Russian art has moved far beyond the
socialist realism depicted in this portrait
by Kiantchenko of Lenin at Razliv.
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REUTERS
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lheb]b_b^]Fhl\hpÍlihlbmbhghgma^
phke]ÍlZkmfZi'
Antony Gormley’s installation ‘Domain
Field’ consists of 287 sculptures made
from the body moulds of 200 volunteers.
It was exhibited at The Garage.
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Dasha Zhukova opened The Garage in
2009. It was a risky undertaking but the
gallery has proven to be a huge success.
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Portfolio

Maria Baibakov started the Baibakov Art
Project, a non-profit space for exhibitions
and lectures.
‘2007’ by Dmitry Vrubel and Viktoria Timofeyeva, a collage of portraits, at the Winzavod
Centre for Contemporary Art in Moscow.
“Cavernous wine cellars
house four major galleries
with installations of
sculpture, photography,
painting and glass.
Between the high end
galleries are interesting
pieces of graffiti and more
traditional paintings on
bare walls. The exposed
pipes and bare brick
add to the industrial
atmosphere.”
March 2011
GRAPHEAST
Russian artist Avdei Ter-Oganian poses next to his paintings during the exhibition
‘Counterpoint: Russian Contemporary Art’ organised by two Moscow galleries,
including the state-owned National Centre for Contemporary Art.
REUTERS
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Essentials
Art
77
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78
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Accommodation

Hypoallergenic Hotel
Rooms, For a Price
The number of people suffering from allergies is steadily climbing and hotels are catering
for this market with special rooms, reports Tanya Mohn.

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Portfolio

Fairmont Hotels and Resorts and
Hyatt Hotels and Resorts are
designating allergy-friendly rooms,
with things like medical-grade
air purifiers and chemical- and
fragrance-free bath products.
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The state of the art Blueair filters out all dust and odour at the Fairmont Hotel in
Vancouver, Canada.
Essentials
Accommodation
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80
Essentials
Accommodation

Steve Scheifele, of Purtech Cleaning Services, steam cleans curtains while Paul Kingsbury, director of housekeeping for the Fairmont
Hotel Vancouver, left, and Marlene Malayo make the bed in a hypoallergenic room.

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Portfolio
82
Essentials
Technology

SHOWING THE FUTURE

The new Nook Color is setting the trends for future e-book readers with its colour touch
screen. Although it isn’t perfect it is a huge step forward, reports David Pogue.

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Portfolio
 83

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March 2011
84
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The Apple iPad (left) has more intuitive controls than the Color Nook (centre). But the Color Nook is a huge step up from
Amazon’s Kindle.
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Portfolio
86 Essentials
Test Drive
STAR QUALITY
The Mercedes GL 450 4MATIC is luxurious, powerful and
comfortable. Plus it’s a lot of fun to drive, reports Guido Duken.
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Portfolio
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March 2011
88
Essentials
Other Business
Ritzy Neighbourhoods
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APP VERSUS
PARKING TICKETS
Nobody likes paying parking fines
and an Australian man decided to
do something about it by creating
an iPhone app that lets users warn
each other when parking officers
are spotted lurking near their cars.
Joseph Darling developed the
‘Park Patrol’ app out of frustration
after falling victim to the long arm of
the law once too often. Darling says
he got between 20 and 30 parking
fines in Sydney last year, and the
final straw came when he was
ticketed in his own neighbourhood
despite a parking permit that he
pays hundreds of dollars for each
year. The average parking ticket is
around US$81.
The app lets users ‘sign in’ and
report sightings of parking officers
with a single push of a button.
Cartoon faces wearing a police cap
then appear plotted on a map of
the area, along with a notice
thanking them. The app will also
alert users if a parking officer is
spotted in their area and how close.
Notification options for 500, 200
and 100 metres are available.
The free app is available in
English, German, Spanish,
Portuguese and French. Roughly 80
per cent of users are in Australia.
Por tfolio
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