Crop in Lightroom

How to Crop in Lightroom and Why Page 1 of 39
Search... SUBMIT
QUERY
+
REVIEWS PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS FORUM PHOTO SPOTS LENSES ABOUT US WORKSHOPS SHOP LOG IN
HOME / PHOTOGRAPHY TUTORIALS / HOW TO CROP IN LIGHTROOM AND WHY
How to Crop in Lightroom and Why     60

LAST UPDATED ON MARCH 6, 2017 BY JOHN SHERMAN – 85 COMMENTS
There are two kinds of photographers. Those who admit they crop, and those who claim they don’t. The latter are glistening bastions of photographic
purity whose souls glow at a constant Zone 10. They graciously lecture us heathens on the evils of cropping and try to exorcise the post-processing
devils from our souls. They abhor us croppers, whom they consider inferior photographers – low down scum worse than fixer stains or a piece of grit in
a bulk loader. They realize that cropping leads to even more sinful behavior, such as high speed bursts and shamelessly shooting above base ISO. I
could go on, but they’ll pick up where I left off in the comments section. For us sinners, why not explore the process of cropping images in Lightroom
and understand why it is done in the first place?
Now that I’ve convinced you that cropping is an express train to Photo Hell, how can you join the fun? Ah, not so quick Bucky. Before we discuss the
how of cropping we need to address the why.
Why to Crop
There is only one reason to crop a photo – to make the photo better. Judiciously used, cropping can strengthen composition.
NIKON D7200 + 150-600mm f/5-6.3 @ 600mm, ISO 640, 1/1600, f/10.0
https://photographylife.com/how-to-crop-in-lightroom-and-why 08-Sep-17
The wind is whipping up and this grebe is taking on the surf, but in a ho-hum manner it seems.
NIKON D7200 + 150-600mm f/5-6.3 @ 600mm, ISO 640, 1/1600, f/10.0
A little help from the cropping tool and the dull part of the photo is gone. In addition the new narrower horizontal format accentuates the motion of the
water versus that of the bird.
The Anti-Croppers will say all composition should be done in camera. That waiting to crop until in post is lazy. While it would be wonderful if every
scene we photographed fit perfectly within a 2×3 ratio square (that used by DSLRs), in reality that isn’t the case. If it were, we’d have a real naughty time
trimming all of Ansel Adams’ photos taken on 8×10 negatives to conform to the 2×3 standard. Winter Sunrise at Lone Pine? Trim the top and bottom
equally to get a 2×3 ratio and the little horsey gets chopped off at the knees.
Throughout the history of photography there have been many different film and digital dimensional formats. Some popular film sizes were 24x36mm
(35mm film format and 2×3 full frame and APS-C DSLR sensor formats), 2 1/4 inch by 2 1/4 inch square as used by the fabled Hasselblad and Rolleiflex
cameras, 4×5, 5×7 and 8×10 sheet film in view cameras, 4×3 in many point and shoot and mirrorless cameras, 16×9 widescreen and so forth. Golden
Mean be damned, there is no one perfect ratio for photography and there never will be.
So shouldn’t we constrain ourselves to only cropping one dimension of a photo? That would allow us to explore every rectangular permutation, but
minimize post-processing induced laziness. Sounds good on paper, but wait, most lenses lose sharpness in the corners.
NIKON D810 + 70-200mm f/4 @ 135mm, ISO 100, 1/400, f/5.6
Here’s some nice fall foliage in Colorado’s San Juans. I’m shooting my Nikkor 70-200mm f/4 which I know is soft in the corners from 135-200mm.
A close up of the lower right corner shows some yucky blurred out trees, not the crisp foliage I want to capture. If we compose a bit loosely in camera,
then crop away the soft corners in post we’ll have a sharper corner-to-corner final output.
This is why any self-respecting Anti-Cropper will only shoot crop-sensor bodies with full frame lenses attached or at least keep their D810 in 1.3x mode.
Another nice benefit of cropping is the ability to crop away distractions in an image.
NIKON D7200 + 70-200mm f/4 @ 170mm, ISO 500, 1/800, f/10.0
Even though they’re coming from a geothermal plant, the power lines on the horizon just aren’t doing it for me.
Ah yes, now we have a shot that shows what I want to share about this scene, a cool lineup of Marbled Godwits with nice curving ripples running
through the shallows. If a chunk of an image is doing nothing to help convey what your vision is, then crop it away.
If you’re shooting fast-paced action you might not have time to perfectly frame your photo. What’s that? Fido is “hugging” Uncle Ralph’s leg in the last
portrait shot of him before the aliens took him away? Bring on the crop tool and voila, a nice three-quarter portrait.
When shooting fast action where I’m distant enough I know I’ll have room to crop, I’ll center my subjects (taking advantage of the more accurate AF-
points near the center of the array), then use the crop tool to my benefit later. That way I won’t miss something like this.
NIKON D810 + 500mm f/4 @ 700mm, ISO 640, 1/1250, f/7.1
Now later in post I can get this. (To quickly switch from a horizontal to portrait crop box, hit the “X” key.)
Ravens can be really antagonistic birds, and will use their huge size and aerobatic flying skills to mess with their neighbors, even if it’s a Red-tailed Hawk.
By utilizing all the tools at my command, both in camera and in post, I can optimize my chances of capturing such decisive moments.
Extra reach is another benefit of cropping. Many subjects don’t require this as you can simply move closer, but what if it’s a rattlesnake with one bad eye
and a disposition to match?
Cropping lets you keep your distance from shy or dangerous subjects, allowing them to relax and behave normally. This makes for better photos. More
importantly, is allows us not to disturb the wildlife to where it wastes precious energy stressing out and/or trying to evade us.
NIKON D7200 + 500mm f/4 @ 700mm, ISO 400, 1/1250, f/9.0
Going for all the reach I can muster gearwise – crop sensor 1.5x factor plus 1.4x teleconverter and 500mm lens and it’s still not enough. Time to crop for
extra reach so we can see that tilapia the gull has snagged.
The big take away here? Just like the camera body and the lens, the crop tool is just that – a tool to help you express what you felt when taking the
photo. Not all tools work in all situations. Don’t use a hammer when you need a wrench – only crop if it makes your image stronger or you can’t or
shouldn’t get closer to your subject.
How to Crop
I’m about to give you the Lightroom keyboard shortcut that will damn you forever. Ready?
Hit the “R” key. In any Lightroom module that will take you directly to the Develop Module and into the crop tool.
You can also access the crop tool by hitting the dashed rectangle on the left side of the tool icons below the histogram. Here we see a 8×10 ratio was
chosen for cropping this image, though this is purely subjective.
We’ve already discussed how standard photo ratios don’t always concur with the best composition for a photo. For those reasons I suggest going to the
cropping tool lock icon and clicking it open.
Now the cropping borders can move independent of each other. At this point you can place your mouse icon over one of the borders or a corner and
drag it into whatever position you like. You might just move one border, two, three or all four. It’s up to you to judge how balanced and aesthetic the
resulting composition is (this is a topic that goes way beyond this primer).
Adjusting all four edges into a rough square.
And, d’oh! Who hasn’t gone through a grunge bird phase?
NIKON D4S + 500mm f/4 @ 700mm, ISO 1000, 1/500, f/11.0
This scene lent itself to a narrow horizontal crop.
If your photo needs leveling you can hover your cursor outside the crop tool borders and a curved icon with two arrowheads shows. Click and hold
down the mouse button while pushing the mouse in the direction you want to tilt the image – release the mouse when you get the image the way you
want. Alternatively, you can use the “angle” slider to tilt the image. Either way, a grid automatically overlays the image to help you straighten horizons,
etc. (If your image contains obvious horizontal lines, say the edges of a building, an ocean horizon or Nebraska, then the “auto” button can be clicked
and Lightroom will automatically level the picture.)
Horizon tilted above.
Now with “auto” straighten clicked. Lightroom tilts the image until the horizon levels out. Just click return to save the result.
If you like your crop dimensions but prefer to shift it slightly left, right, up or down, just tap the corresponding arrow keys and the frame will move in
small increments.
If you have set dimensions you need to crop to – say a page layout that demands a 8.5×11 ratio image, you can click on the up/down arrow icon just
left of the lock icon and a dialog screen with several standard image ratios will appear.
Choose one (or if none match your needs you can create a custom one by clicking “enter custom” then filling in your own ratios to the dialog box – I
have three of my own added here, such as 3.5×2 for business cards) then click the lock icon so it shows locked. Now when you drag a border or corner
the other borders shrink or expand to keep the ratio constant.
A visual aid I like to use when cropping is to “turn the lights off.” Hit the “L” key once and your screen will dim except for what’s inside your cropping
tool borders.
Hit “L” again and it will go black outside the borders. Either helps minimize the distraction of seeing the entire image with a border overlay and lets you
focus on what the final image will look like.
Another way to judge this if you don’t hit “L” is to watch the small thumbnail in the Navigator box at the upper left of your screen – that will show the
cropped version.
Often looking at the small version makes it quickly apparent if the crop is working – if it looks catchy small, it will look even better at final output. The
small image size lets the eye pull in the bigger composition details and not get lost in the minutiae.
If you want hints as to composition, there are several overlays that give translucent white lines or curves that line up with different ratio formats, the rule
of thirds, the Golden Ratio, a Fibonacci spiral, etc.
Rule of thirds grid.
And Fibonacci spiral.
You can scroll through these by hitting the “O” key – if you want to flip an overlay, hold shift and click “O”. If, like me, you hate being told what to do,
then you can turn these off by hitting “H” (hide) or by going to Tools>Tool overlay>Never Show. If you hit “O” again the overlays will come back and
you can cycle through by hitting “O” repeatedly.
If you don’t like your crop and want to quickly return to the original click “reset” at the bottom of the crop tool box.
Warnings
Cropping throws out pixels and thus information. The less info in your files, the less defined the details are and the more magnified any imperfections,
such as image blur or noise, become. As well, the smaller the file, the smaller a print you can make from it without sacrificing resolution. I have my
develop module info overlay set to give cropped dimensions in the loupe info (Develop>View>View Options>choose “cropped dimensions” for one of
your boxes – shown here as third box in Loupe Info 1).
That way when I crop an image to how I like it, I can check the cropped dimensions and have an idea if it will print good as a magazine cover or only be
big enough for a postcard. If you find the info overlay distracting you can turn it off by hitting the “I” key until it disappears.
Looking at the cropped dimension in upper left we see that this is 1525×1667 pixels, a small file suitable for web sharing, but not more demanding use.
Probably a good thing as this might be the least flattering Roseate Spoonbill shot ever taken.
Cropping in Lightroom (Video)

Here is a video by John Bosley on using the crop tool in Lightroom, which beginners and enthusiasts might appreciate, since it covers the crop tool in a
very easy to understand way:
How to Deal with Naysayers

The naysayers are right that cropping as a first resort can lead to photographic laziness, but they’re wrong when they insist that “cropping is just for
farmers”. When used judiciously, cropping can turn good photos into great photos. If you need convincing just study the famous portraits taken by
Arnold Newman. The tight face shot of Picasso? Stravinsky dwarfed by his grand piano? Both carefully cropped into the iconic photos they became.
“Ah,” the naysayers will quip, “but the master of The Decisive Moment, the Godfather of street photography, Magnum Photos co-founder and all-
around legend of photography Henri Cartier-Bresson would include the negative borders on his prints and submit them to publishers with a stamp
warning them not to crop his images. Your lazy ass will never understand the level of perfection that he and I embody.”
That may well be so, but you know Cartier-Bresson’s super-famous photo of the dude hopping over the puddle in Paris? Gare Saint Lazare? Big time
crop job. Even Cartier-Bresson knew some photos improve with cropping.
For more on Verm’s struggles with cropoholism, please visit his blog here.
All contents © John Sherman, no reproduction without prior written permission.
RELATED ARTICLES:
FILED UNDER: PHOTOGRAPHY TUTORIALS

TAGGED WITH: CROPPING, LIGHTROOM, LIGHTROOM TUTORIAL, TIPS FOR BEGINNERS
About John Sherman

John “Verm” Sherman is one of only 25,000 wildlife and nature photographers based out of Flagstaff, Arizona. In 2012 he was
awarded Flagstaff Photography Center’s Emerging Artist of the Year award. He has since submerged into internet notoriety but
comes up occasionally to contribute to Arizona Highways Magazine. Visit his website and blog at www.vermphoto.com.
Comments
1) Ori Cohen
NOVEMBER 11, 2015 AT 12:32 AM
Agreed. Cropping is a good tool. Especially if you dont have that higher focal prime lens.
Reply
2) Alis
Ha ha ha, I really had to smile sometimes :-)
I am a sinner and use the crop tool a lot, especially for having the 16:9 format. I didn’t know the “L” command, so thanks for the info!
Greetings from photo hell

Alis
Reply
3) Colin Adams
“The naysayers are right that cropping as a first resort can lead to photographic laziness”
Indeed they are right. I am very lazy. Instead of being so lazy and nearly always cropping (I even shoot my D810 in DX crop mode, to get that extra
fps increment), I really ought to spend my time talking to the dragonflies more, persuading them to fly more considerately. Or alternatively, persuade
Nikon to fit the 800mm lens with anti-gravity and anti-inertia gizmos (and anti-bank-manager gizmos too, would be nice).
I wonder which will be easier?
Reply
3.1) Betty
Do you really throw away half your image data for the sake of one frame per second and incidentally lose most of your ability to crop?
Very strange reasoning – to me at least.
You are losing nothing by staying in FX mode and cropping later in the computer.
Cropping in camera in the mistaken belief that you are gaining ‘reach’ is very muddled thinking.
Reply
3.1.1) Colin Adams

It’s very simple reasoning. I have to crop ANYWAY, even in DX mode. So the extra image data is just not wanted.
Reply
3.1.1.1) Betty
“It’s very simple reasoning.”

With respect it’s not reasoning at all but an absence of reasoning.
The pixel density is the same whether you use the D810 in FX, or DX, or any of the other crop modes.
If you use the DX mode with an FX camera, you have thrown away half the potential image possibilities before you start.
Not only has half the data been binned at the outset but the potential to crop has been halved.
You have gained nothing in ‘reach’ – as you would with a natively DX camera.
You are in a lose-lose situation.
I have no idea why this feature was even included in a camera like the D810 as the only potential benefit might be a higher frame rate, but
with the D800 series this gain is so small as to be effectively negligible.
Reply
3.1.1.1.1) Betty
“So the extra image data is just not wanted.”
Why then did you invest in a 36 Mp camera?

You would actually be better off with a good DX camera witha significantly higher frame rate.
Reply
3.1.1.1.1.1) Tyler
MARCH 13, 2017 AT 2:24 PM
Perhaps he doesn’t spend all his time shooting Dragonflies, and it was simply used as an example?
i’ve happily used the 1.3x crop on my D7200 at airshows, not for the faux-reach, but because i can get the extra fps, and i can produce
smaller, more manageable files. there’s no extra potential to any shots that would have been in full DX mode because i know there’s not
going to be anything in that space.
If there was going to be any image in that space I, quite simply, would not use the extra crop mode.
Reply
3.1.1.1.1.1.1) Betty
MARCH 13, 2017 AT 5:30 PM
Tyler
You have managed to miss every point I made.
1. “Perhaps he doesn’t spend all his time shooting Dragonflies, and it was simply used as an example?”
Of course he was using dragonflies as an example. Dragonflies, shmagonflies, they are all irrelevant. Dragonflies were just used as an
example of fast flying, difficult to capture, subjects. You can substitute aircraft. birds or performing fleas, it’s all the same.
2. ” I’ve happily used the 1.3x crop on my D7200 at airshows, not for the faux-reach, but because i can get the extra fps,”
I agree, if you need, and can gain, a significant (and I emphasise significant), increase in frame rate, then shooting in crop mode can
make sense. However, the camera under discussion was a D810 where the maximum frame rate is already low (6fps) and increases by
just 1 fps in DX mode. So where’s the significant gain?
3. “..and i can produce smaller, more manageable files.”

If you want smaller, more manageable (lower quality) files then perhaps you should use a camera that has a blistering frame rate and
smaller files in the first place. I see no point in buying a Ferrari and using it for transporting vegetables and dry goods.
Maybe you bought the wrong camera.
4. “there’s no extra potential to any shots that would have been in full DX mode because i know there’s not going to be anything in
that space.”
This is where you really miss the point.
The point of not cropping in camera is to make capturing your subject easier – you simply have more viewfinder real estate to play on.
If you can’t keep your fast moving subject in frame, you can’t make an image of it. So use the whole frame to make the task of capture
easier and then crop in post (when you can do so at your leisure) – that way you get your more manageable files with the added
bonus of having your subject in them – rather than cropping in camera and having a much higher miss rate.
Reply
4) Rick Keller
John,
Excellent article, with many great points. I tend to fall into both camps. I crop all of my photographs, but 90% of those crops are to alter the aspect
ratio, not the composition per se. Having said that, I agree that there is no denying that cropping can be instrumental in strengthening the
composition in the mind’s eye that could not be achieved behind the camera for various technical reasons (e.g., inadequate focal length, impractical
or unsafe subject distance). That’s when I will crop about 10% of my photos. Incidentally, although I do not photograph with the 6 x 6 cm format (i.e.,
the square format), one notable advantage of this format is that the photographer need not worry about using the horizontal or vertical orientation
to frame; the final composition and aspect ratio can be attained with an elegant crop.
– Rick
Reply
4.1) John Sherman

How can you fall into both camps Rick? That’s like saying you’re “kind of a virgin” :) The crop function is the tool of the Devil. See you in hell my
friend!
Reply
4.2) Betty
I agree – some (previsualised) compositions like long, thin, ‘panorama type’ shots can only be achieved by cropping and many shots are made or
broken by the way they are cropped.
But on the other hand, cropping is too often the result of laziness and lack of judgment.
The same could be said for zoom lenses with the same justification.
I got rid of my long zoom for exactly that reason – it was making me lazy and I was finding all my shots were starting to look the same.
There is no substitute for taking a prime lens and getting off your ass to get closer to your subject, find a better, more interesting viewpoint, a
different perspective or an alternative composition.
Reply
4.2.1) mahhi cat

Not always possible….I am hiking and on a cliff. There is no way, I am going to move forward or backward, left right or up down. Using just
primes is just another arrogant attitude. If you are a photographer, it does not matter what lens you use from a composition stand point. You’re
going to look at all the different perspectives within the confines of your environment.
Cropping is not a lack of judgement. Shooting moving wildlife is not always going to give you the time to move in or out, left or right. You are
there, the subject matter is moving, you’re going to take the shot and crop afterward. There is nothing lazy about that. It is certainly not a lack of
judgement. It is a lack of judgement to over generalize.
Reply
4.2.1.1) Betty
mahhi cat
Agreed, not always possible…which is why I said “cropping is too often the result of laziness and lack of judgment”
The operative word was “often”.
Please read the words properly before criticising them. It’s lazy to do otherwise.
Neither is using primes “another arrogant attitude” – it’s a choice – and it’s a stupid over generalisation to say it’s an ‘arrogant attitude’.
I chose to use a 500mm prime as a self imposed discipline to force myself to expand my creativity and as you say, “look at all the different
perspectives” – something which I cannot do sitting on my ass with a zoom. However, I kept my 70-200mm zoom and wouldn’t be without it
because sometimes, as you say, the environment or the situation imposes insurmountable limitations.
Neither did I say cropping is a lack of judgment. I said “cropping is too often the result of laziness and lack of judgment” and again, the
operative word was “often”. I stand by that.
However, as a wildlife photographer, I understand perfectly the dilemma of in camera composition vs cropping after the event – and agree
that post process cropping is frequently both unavoidable and invaluable.
Reply
4.2.2) Swati P.S.

Sometimes that is simply not an available option. Get closer to a Leopard? Umm no. Not only out of fear of becoming breakfast cereal for him
but simply because he will disappear before your first foot touches the ground … What do you do with that fish Eagle swooping down to get his
breakfast in the middle of the river?
And then primes are not affordable at all focal lengths! That would be a real dream come true for photographers!
But for non-wildlife, yes, I totally agree. Even with a zoom, it’s nicer to actually be closer than have the lens do the job. There is such a sense of
connection with what one is trying to portray. (P.s. I will admit to having insane urges to get off a game drive vehicle to get an eye-to-eye shot
of those big cats! ?)
Reply
4.2.2.1) Betty
I ahve been photographing leopards, lion and wild dog – on the ground – for over 15 years – which is why I use a 500mm prime and a short
(ish) zoom.
I was not saying one or the other is better, just that it’s a choice and that cropping has its place in all scenarios…and that for a change of
perspective there is no alternative to walking…a zoom will not do it.
Reply
5) Jean-Daniel Pellet
Hi John.
Why bother about naysayers? Their notion of “ photographic laziness” is completely irrelevant. Do we judge the quality of a work of art by the time
and effort put into it? Or by the weight or religion of the photographer? Or by their gear?
There are good and bad photographs, and we know which we prefer: whatever can be done to make a picture better should be done. And cropping
is an obvious first choice—that’s why I like hi-res sensors which provide enough photographic estate…
The only point is honesty: when a picture is not a single photograph, but a montage, it should be clearly stated. Just as painters always quote the type
of paintings they show: acrylic, watercolor, oil painting, etc.
JD
Reply
5.1) Eric
SEPTEMBER 21, 2016 AT 11:13 AM
Touché
Reply
6) Richard Walliker
I have no issue with cropping. I am a circuit photography judge and in many cases how would I know a crop has been applied? It’s like all these
things, rule of thirds included, the photographer has the tools and should use them. What I do take into account is over sharpening and saturation,
crooked horizons etc.
Photography belongs to the author, no one else.
Richard
Reply
7) Mark Casebeer
I loved the article! Why does cropping make you feel less of a photographer? It shouldn’t, as you illustrated it only makes your images better. That’s
what we all strive for. I did a recent junior ice hockey shoot for my grandsons team. Yes, I try to fill the frame as much as possible but what happens is
I miss some shots with the puck, as it might be just outside of the area. If I open up a little I get more keepers. With todays large megapixel cameras I
can crop 50% and still print a nice size print. Think about the end result, when I posted the gallery for the parents they were blow away. Nothing
makes me feel better than making some memories for these parents. Do I feel less of a photographer because of cropping? Well, I’d like to, and try
to, fill the frame with great composition but memories come at you in a split second and I don’t want to miss them. Crop away…
Reply
8) R. Scott Duncan
This is an excellent article. Of course I try not to crop and crop straight out of the camera. Sometimes the image just isn’t cutting it, so I do crop. Not
embarrassed at all. If it helps get the results I’m looking for and improves the photo, what’s the harm. Thanks for posting.
Reply
9) Colin Adams
You’re quite wrong.
Those outer pixels cannot be used, except by using a longer lens. But that makes it too difficult to follow the dragonfly in flight.
Reply
9.1) Betty
Colin
“You’re quite wrong.” …I don’t think so …unless I am misunderstanding what you are saying.
“Those outer pixels cannot be used, except by using a longer lens. But that makes it too difficult to follow the dragonfly in flight.”
Sorry, why can’t the outer pixels be used?
I agree that in DX mode they can’t be used because you’ve cropped them out in the camera at the outset – in FX mode all the pixels are available
regardless of which lens you use.
Irrespective of what lens you use, the image size in terms of pixel dimensions is identical on both formats as both formats are employing the same
sensor in the same camera. A longer lens will produce a larger image overall, but that (larger) image is still the same size on both DX and FX. You
are just using different portions of the same sensor.
Using the FX format actually makes it easier to follow a dragonfly in flight as you have the subject on a larger viewfinder/sensor ’canvas’ and so are
less likely to have it fly out of the frame.
I believe you may be confused about the relationship between image magnification and angle of view and how they relate sensor size?
Reply
10) Colin Adams

It’s a better camera for my purpose than any other Nikon camera at the moment. Pixel density isn’t the only factor.
Reply
10.1) Betty
Colin
I agree, the D810 is a fabulous camera (I use D800E’s) and I agree that pixel density isn’t the only factor, but if you are shooting small, fast moving
subjects, high pixel count/density and high frame rates are useful to have. There is always a trade off between the two though.
Unfortunately, the D810 does not benefit from high frame rates and if you are limiting yourself to just half of the sensor (18 Mp), I struggle to
understand your rationale for choosing a D810.
Reply
11) Neal F. Rattican

This is a most helpful piece, especially for old heads like me who still are trying to wrap their heads around digital and the intricacies of Lightroom
and Photoshop. As a former newspaper editor, I’ve seen far more images that benefited from a good crop than not, and the majority of those that
didn’t stemmed from just plain luck. Thanks for the LR help.
Reply
12) Toby
Thanks! I didn’t know about the “l” and the “R” and the “O” for the different overlays! How exciting!
Reply
13) Kevin
Another great collection of words Verm,
Setting up a shot without cropping works great for still-life, landscapes, and the occasional human over the age of three. The birds and wildlife I
shoot didn’t seem to get the memo to stand still while I set up the shot. Many times, I’m capturing them flying by while I swivel about. Cropping and
tweaking in Lightroom allows me to actually get the picture to tell a much better story.
While I have blown one of my shots up to a 5 foot x 8 foot monster, most of my photos are put out on Flickr for other’s enjoyment
(www.flickr.com/photos/kwpashuk/) so I can crop my photos, and still lay my head on my pillow and get a good night’s sleep.
Cheers,
Kevin
Reply
14) Betty
Yep, I have the same problem.

Those pesky creatures persist in moving around and ruining my composition.
And even when they do stand still, they almost always stand in the wrong place.
Reply
15) Andrew V.
I just carry 1 lens, my 105mm. I can stitch for wide angle and crop for telephoto. Done ultimate laziness.
Reply
16) Rich
Oh Lord I’m a sinner!!!

But then I have age related vision problems and find if I capture a subject with enough space I can then better see the image on my monitor. Just
about everything I photograph now is shot knowing I will be cropping the image later
Reply
17) Colin Adams

No I’m not confused.
Reply
18) Peter Connan

Verm, another great article. I love your humorous approach.
I once saw a video clip of a guy editing one of his photos. He changed his crop border from landscape to portrait with a keystroke. Do you perhaps
know what keystroke or combination of keys can achieve this? I know one can do this by dragging he border, but it’s painful!
Reply
18.1) John Sherman

NOVEMBER 11, 2015 AT 4:01 PM
Hit “X” to switch from portrait to landscape. Thanks for the reminder – I’ll try to add this to the post.
Reply
19) Colin Adams

OK, longer explanation.
(BTW it’s 15 MP, not 18 MP in DX mode).
First what I am aiming for is (1) to freeze the wings (so I can see the details of the veins). This requires a high shutter speed (1/4000 to be certain – but
mostly I compromise with 1/2000). I also want the whole dragonfly to be in focus (head-to-tail, wing-tip to wing-tip) – again this is a tall order, and
I’m not unduly disappointed if the veins are still clear to just past the nodus (the notch roughly half along the wing). So my default settings are
manual mode, 1/2000, f/8, Auto-ISO.
This usually results in an ISO of 3200 (I set that as my limit).
This results in noisy images, and I don’t want to be too heavy on the noise reduction, as otherwise I lose details in the veins. So I need a camera low
noise levels.
and (2) interesting views of the wings in relation to the head and thorax. So (2a) the head is not obscured by the wings, and (very very rare this, but I
want to capture it on the rare occasions that I can) it is very nice if they are executing a turn.
A dragonfly’s wings beat too fast for a human to even perceive their position, let alone anticipate it in a shot. So it’s a case of spray-and-pray. The
more shots you get, the greater the chances of catching a nice shot. So high fps is desirable. An alternative is to keep tracking the dragonfly for a
longer time, but this is VERY difficult indeed (except when they are hovering for an extended period – and in most species that is very rare).
Dragonflies are rather unpredictable in their movements, even when you are an expert on them.
and (3) I want to fill the photo with the dragonfly. This can be achieved by long lenses, or by cropping (either in camera, or post-processing, or both).
So my desire for high frame rates speaks for a D4S or a Nikon 1. My desire for low noise speaks for a D4S. My desire for high pixel density speaks for
a D7200 (although that didn’t exist when I bought my current camera). The D810 seems to me to be the best compromise I can get at the moment (a
D400 might change that – who knows). Certainly I get much better results (i.e. more keepers) with it than I did the D300, which I had before.
Lens of choice is the Nikkor 300mm f/4 PF (or the Nikkor 105 macro for those occasions when I can get really close). The 300mm f/2.8 VR is better
optically, but too unwieldy, so I want to sell it.
7 fps over 6 fps does better for me in catching those positions, than 6 fps and the extra tracking time of full frame.
Reply
20) Betty
That’s all very nice and interesting too, but what on earth has any of it to do with shooting DX (15Mp – I stand corrected – but it’s even worse!) on an
(36Mp) FX sensor?
That was my original question.
“(3) I want to fill the photo with the dragonfly. This can be achieved by long lenses, or by cropping (either in camera, or post-processing, or both).”
Yes, you can fill the frame using those methods but only filling the frame with a long lens will optimise the quality I assume you are aiming to achieve.
Cropping in post process will increase noise (already high at 3200 ISO) and reduce sharpness/resolution for a given output size..and I doubt you
would want that.
Cropping in camera is completely pointless in this instance as the magnification (and hence the size of the image) is a function of the lens alone.
In other words, the actual image size is identical regardless of the in camera crop so you are gaining nothing in using DX – other than one frame per
second which even Nikon say is an approximation and dependent on a number of factors all of which are out of the control of the photographer. And
you think you can tell the difference between 6fps and 7fps anyway? Wow.
Cropping in camera just makes your life as a dragon fly photographer much harder as it is much more difficult to keep such a moving subject in
frame on a DX frame than on an FX frame.
Reply
21) Colin Adams

No.
Reply
21.1) Betty
You are confused – No?
Reply
22) Oliver
John, you made my day! Had some nice laughs even after a working day loaded with loads of brainwork ;-) Nice pictures!
Reply
23) Colin Paul Adams

No I am not confused.
I already told you 7 fps makes a difference over 6. I can see it in my photos.
Reply
23.1) Betty
Gosh, I am impressed – how do you tell?

You must completely miss many more shots by trying to frame shots on a DX sensor than you might gain by getting one extra frame per second!
Have a go on full frame – you will definitely improve your hit rate.
Or if you are happy with 15Mp the D4S is for you – 11fps, superb noise performance and a big buffer (3xD810) for long bursts.
Unless you take advantage of all 36Mp, the D810 is wasted.
Reply
24) mark
Good Article
I’m surprised that there are people that don’t like cropping. I really use it to insure my horizons are level, especially with water in the picture. Hand
shooting 14fps with a 1DX and 400mm fixed 2.8f (that’s 12 lbs.) is hard enough on land and even harder on a zodiac. So most of those pictures will
need cropping. I feel honored that I can even get the focused subjects in the frame So I’m a big crop fan and so are all the pros I have shot with. I
guess the groups I go with want the shot, they really don’t care if you tilted it some or moved it into the 1/3s
Thanks for the article and the shortcuts inside the LR crop tool.
Reply
25) Jorge Balarin

We must crop when we are shooting using C-autofocus, because the autofocus points didn’t cover the whole frame of the photo, so many times we
are forced to shoot without having the perfect composition.
Reply
26) dannny
dont flatter your self. in the old days of real photography gropp’n, dogging,burn’n were all part of the norm. today we have digital art and digital
photography.
since the photo chip is so unforgiving you dont have a choice. talk about rigid and controlling, and all that extra weight.very sad. but commerce runs
the photo world just like every other industry.cropping, etc it is!
Reply
27) Aaron Shepard

I don’t get it. Why would it be lazier to crop later than to crop in camera (aka “composing”)? One’s with software, one’s with hardware. Either way,
you’re cropping off what you want outside the frame. There are advantages and disadvantages to both ways, and it would make no sense to limit
yourself to one or the other.
The only thing I might call “lazy” is accepting the aspect ratio imposed by the camera regardless of the needs of the picture. Like the people who
boast about not processing their photos — meaning they just blithely accept the camera’s default processing.
Reply
27.1) Michel Poisson

Aaron, you do get it imo. Putting all options available to improve your end result is always better than putting yourself in a “box”…
Reply
28) Bill Micol

My name is Bill and I’m a cropper.
Reply
28.1) Michel
LOL
Reply
28.2) Jason
Hi Bill!
Reply
28.3) Claude B.
DECEMBER 2, 2015 AT 9:14 AM
Bill, your’e not alone.

Welcome! :)
Reply
29) fy
Thank you so much for this article! I picked up a few new LR tips and I’m feeling less guilty about my reliance on the crop tool!
Reply
30) Allan Wood

That grebe needs to practice some white water kayak moves! Ferry out so that you get your hips and butt at the top of the foam pile, then paddle a
bit to keep on the wave. Carve around, enjoy, and no cheating by flying off!
Reply
31) Martin Rumbolz

In the old days i used a Hasselblad. Cropping was normal. I liked the possibility to create the best out of the huge negative in post processing.
nowadays the 810 give me the same freedom. There is always enough data to do this.
This is very relaxing. I can use a few prime lenses and get all the formats in between by cropping.
This is my workflow and i like it very much.
Btw. The unused part of the data costs me nothing. So, why shouldn’t i do it this way?
The final picture counts, not the “negative”
Reply
31.1) Betty
Couldn’t agree more.
D800 series camera + top quality prime + judicious cropping = photographic heaven.
Reply
32) russ
I don’t know any wildlife or bird photographers who don’t crop. I certainly do: http://www.flickr.com/photos/russ-w/
If you do this kind of photography well and don’t crop, contact me. I’ve got something to learn from you.
Reply
33) Ramakant
Hi John, a very educative write up for beginners like me. By reading some of the comments above, I do agree that cropping is a very debatable issue,
provoking some staunch hard-heads from either side!! (“some” is the operative word here to escape the heat of collision from the debaters here ha
ha!). Till now I happened to be the “virgin” (not a “kind a” type!!), basically since photography has been private matter to me. It is not for making it
viral on social media. My snaps are enjoyed by me and my like-minded family only, serving as a memoir to us – that is all! If I had snapped the birds
in water like you with geothermal plant at the back-ground, I would enjoy such snap better – by retaining electric pole without cropping! However,
hereafter I think I will resort to cropping any soft edges and corners when needed. See you in hell mate!
Reply
33.1) John Sherman

Hi Ramakant,
Congratulations on your abstinence. One friendly word of advice – don’t lose your cropping virginity to just any photo :)
Look me up in hell,
Verm
Reply
34) Claude B.
DECEMBER 2, 2015 AT 9:22 AM
I do street photographies and many times impossible for cropping fast enough in the camera. I work mainly with wide angle fix lenses.
Sometimes, in one frame I could have 2 or 3 great shots.
Yes cropping is a fantastique tool for me.
Reply
35) Stephen Powell

FEBRUARY 18, 2016 AT 7:07 PM
Most of the greatest artists and photographers broke the establishment rules that were in place at the time. Are any of the rule makers remembered
as masters or luminaries of their time? Can someone tell me which of these nobodies decided only ‘these’ dimension ratios are allowed or was it a
whole committee of born to rule non-achieving idiots?
The dimensions of sheet photo paper, film frames and screen sensors is a compromise decision based on what will cover the greatest number of
situations. Film and sensor dimension ratios were never intended to be an absolute that all images must fit. If that was the case ever shot taken with a
Hasselblad would have resulted in a square photo!
Rules & ratios are often used to explain why an image looks balanced and the rule-obsessed will scream I told you so. They seem to also have the
ability to ignore the fact that many of the greats works and images break many or all of the same rules.
The idea that the for an image to be great it’s creator needs a ruler, calculator or protractor is bonkers. As an artist and a photographer, I do use one
rule – That looks about right! None of the many people who have admired or purchased my work have ever checked the images with a ruler to
confirm its appeal or in the case of photographs that it was full frame uncropped!
Reply
35.1) Betty
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 1:41 AM
Before we allow ourselves the luxury (or conceit) of breaking ‘the rules’, we should first properly understand them.
Reply
36) Michael
MARCH 6, 2017 AT 8:43 PM
How many of you worked with film in a darkroom?
Reply
36.1) Betty
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 1:42 AM
Me?
Reply
36.2) Sean T
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 7:37 AM
Ha ha ha ha. No. I’m too young to have done that. I’d like to have the opportunity (maybe a junior college photography class in the future?).
Reply
36.3) Pete A
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 1:06 PM
The enlarger head elevation knob is the darkroom ‘crop tool’.
Reply
36.4) Stephen Powell

MARCH 7, 2017 AT 3:26 PM
My darkroom in the roof is gathering dust! Destined to be found by an archaeologist who will be puzzled by its purpose. Might leave a note!
Reply
36.4.1) Pete A
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 5:31 PM
Write the note in Latin, not in English!
Reply
36.5) John Sherman

MARCH 8, 2017 AT 2:53 AM
For years and years. Can’t say I miss the smell of hypo and I sure don’t miss handmounting slides (I bulkloaded 100-ft rolls of Ektachrome and did
my own E6 processing so I could afford to shoot color). Sure happy to have the digital darkroom now. Some of the easels had really poor border
adjustments :(
Verm
Reply
37) Stephen Powell

MARCH 6, 2017 AT 9:20 PM
I’m a wildlife photographer and can carry and afford only so many lenses. My subjects can be flighty to life-threateningly belligerent. Many are grab
shots with very little pre-warning of an opportunity. I don’t sit in a hide waiting at a nest site or near a perch that is frequently visited where I can
experience the plensure full frame rapture. I am often in situations where moving closer is not possible. The argument that I should not crop is one
used by smug purists to boost their ego and who dwell in an unreal land of their own creation.
Note: Many years ago I shot with a Bronica 21/4 square film camera. Most images shot with this format were cropped. I would not like to tell all those
Hasselblad users that every shot they took and cropped get an F from anti croppers.
Reply
37.1) Betty
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 2:12 AM
I am with you on this. Photography from a hide is very different to safari photography on the move.
Many years ago, I too, shot with a Bronica and unless you limit yourself to square images, cropping comes with the territory.
Incidentally my profile photo was shot with a Bronica EC, drum scanned (833.7 MB), edited to a layered master tiff (3.94GB!) and finally downsized
to a 500 x 500 pixel JPEG (122KB!). What an abuse…?
Reply
37.1.1) Stephen Powell

MARCH 7, 2017 AT 3:24 PM
Pixel genocide! Took most of my own wedding photographs with the Bronica. Been married 40 years and still haven’t created and album! Might
have to find someone with a drum scanner before they are all gone!
Reply
37.1.1.1) Betty
MARCH 8, 2017 AT 4:25 PM
Stephen Powell
“Took most of my own wedding photographs with the Bronica.”
Now that’s what I call the ultimate selfy.
Reply
37.1.1.1.1) Chris
MARCH 8, 2017 AT 9:33 PM
Betty, are you a man, or a woman??
Reply
37.1.1.1.1.1) Betty
MARCH 9, 2017 AT 8:45 AM
Chris
What a question.
Have you not seen my profile photo?
Or perhaps you wear dark glasses and walk with a white stick?
Why are you asking?

Do you want a date?
I would remind you this is a serious website, not a lonely hearts club.
Nevermind, just in case, are you Christopher or Christine?…?
Reply
38) Gabe
MARCH 6, 2017 AT 9:41 PM
My biggest issue right now is to find affordable frames that match a DSLR’s ratio, not 8×10 (1:1.2) or similar. I’m forced to crop to fit the frame, which
is something I hate, after working painfully on the composition. I frankly don’t understand it. No DSLR that I know of shoots at a native 8×10 or
equivalent format. Is it so difficult to make picture frames with a matching ratio? I love IKEA frames, too, and those have an even weirder ratio. I’m
actually thinking of learning to frame and getting the tools and material to do it myself.
Reply
38.1) Sean T
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 7:39 AM
I agree, the lack of medium sized 3:2 frames annoys me as well. Well, 18×12 is okay, but usually rather bigger than I can fit.
Reply
39) edward hyde

MARCH 7, 2017 AT 2:22 AM
FYI: a square by definition has equal sides, so there is no such thing as a 2×3 square. There is a 2×3 rectangle though. Hope this helps!
Reply
39.1) Pete A
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 1:50 PM
FYI: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varieties_of_criticism#Constructive_criticism
QUOTE [retrieved 2017-03-07 20:45 UTC; emphasis original]

Constructive criticisms are often suggestions for improvement – how things could be done better or more acceptably. They draw attention to how
an identified problem could be solved, or how it could be solved better. Constructive criticism is more likely to be embraced if the criticism is
timely, clear, specific, detailed and actionable.
Reply
40) Andy Stowell

MARCH 7, 2017 AT 9:35 AM
Hello, my name is Andy and I am a Cropper!
My father was a Cropper and his father before him, before he sadly succumbed to chemical poisoning! The coroner said Pop’s must have spent years
down the mine, his lungs were that bad. The Coroner was amazed when we told him that Pop’s had never been down a mine digging for coal. Mind
you his darkroom was as black as coal so there was some similarities! There was so much talk in our family of dodging this and burning that; and
Pop’s using his tray’s of ‘holy water’, that us kids thought that we belonged to a family of vampire hunters! There were lots of families like us – once.
We were a normal family until we were seduced by the dark side, visited by the demonic Lightroom and his boss, Adobe.
We were soon shunned by the ‘other’ families because we were Croppers, Digital Demons.
We were forced underground but our numbers are growing, we will rise up into the light, the glorious light.
Life will never be the same.
Reply
40.1) Stephen Powell

MARCH 7, 2017 AT 3:19 PM
I’m in Andy but only if there is a secret handshake!
Reply
41) SDreamer
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 2:42 PM
Good article, takes away the guilt I always had when I would crop. As a budding hobby photographer, I’m still learning on how to frame and what not.
The way I look at it, is it helps me see what frame I should have done or would have liked, learn from this and try to do it next time I shoot something
similar. I try not to crop honestly, makes it feel like there’s more in the photograph technique than the post processing, but it really does help me see
how I should frame for next time.
Reply
42) Burghclerebilly
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 4:19 PM
It seems to me that unless you are using a 360 degree camera, you are cropping. Whether it’s by choice of sensor size, lens, zoom position, in camera
crop-mode, or post production cropping, you have reduced the amount of visual information around you into something that pleases you more.
Some people would call that the basis of photography.
Of course in the old days we didn’t call it ‘cropping’. We enlarged the critical information and removed the problematic borders.
Reply
42.1) Betty
MARCH 8, 2017 AT 10:42 AM
Surely cropping has two separate aspects.

The first, as Pete A says, is choosing which part of the scene one is going to capture and even how one is going to capture it.
The second, and I would argue the commonly understood meaning of the term, is making a reasoned selection of a part of the capture itself.
Making some sort of virtue out of not cropping the captured image under any circumstances feels as anal and pointlessly obsessive as cropping
the buggery out of everything feels like mindless laziness and lack of vision.
Cropping is as much a part of photographic technique as any other and like any technique can be employed creatively or…not.
Reply
42.1.1) Pete A
MARCH 8, 2017 AT 11:31 AM
Betty, You have reminded me that I failed to add the very important item 5 to my list of things that every photographer always ‘crops’: the
dynamic range of reality that humans can see, which is circa 24 f-stops.
Reply
43) Pete A
MARCH 7, 2017 AT 5:11 PM
Photographs capture only a heavily-cropped 2D version of reality. Reality consists of the 4D spacetime continuum of our universe (aka: 3D+1 space-
time).
The user of a camera system always ‘crops’ all of the following aspects of reality:
1. The perspective of the scene: determined only by the location of the lens entrance pupil in 3D object space.
2. The 2D object space parameters: horizontal and vertical angles of view.
3. The third dimension of object space: distance/depth information, the portrayal of which is determined by the selected diameter of the lens
entrance pupil; the intended viewing angle of the final image; and the visual acuity of each viewer.
4. The selected shutter speed crops the fourth dimension of reality, time: not just its first-order differential [rate of change]; but also its very important
higher-order differentials, such as the second-order differential, acceleration!
Photographers who claim that they don’t crop reality are not “glistening bastions of photographic purity whose souls glow at a constant Zone 10”,
they are, perhaps, to be pitied for their abject inability to even begin to understand objective science- and evidence-based reality :-)
As always, thank you very much, Verm, for taking the time to write your educational, entertaining, and well-illustrated articles.
Best wishes,
Pete
Reply
44) Doug
MARCH 9, 2017 AT 4:51 AM
From day one, I have been taught to crop since my photo class in high school. Of course, there was no lightroom or photoshop, just a darkroom. The
35mm negative never fit perfectly into an 8×10 frame. Even in my photoshop class, my instructor told us to frame images while and to take cropping
into consideration, to keep the main subject as close to the inner part of the frame. I guess now you can print 8 by 12 but he still considered this a
“custom” size. I always crop because all lenses have some degree of softness in the corners, even modern ones.
Reply
Comment Policy: Although our team at Photography Life encourages all readers to actively participate in discussions, we reserve the right to delete /
modify any content that does not comply with our Code of Conduct, or do not meet the high editorial standards of the published material.
Leave a Comment
Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *
Comment
Name *
Email *
reCAPTCHA
Please upgrade to a supported browser

to get a reCAPTCHA challenge.
Alternatively if you think you are getting

this page in error, please check your
internet connection and reload.
Why is this happening to me?
Privacy - Terms
POST COMMENT
ARCHIVES
› Composition and Art

› Essays and Inspiration
› Photography Business
› Photography News
› Photography Techniques
› Photography Tutorials
› Post-Processing
› Tours and Travel
LOGIN
Username
Password
 Remember Me
LOGIN →
› Register
› Lost Password
SUBSCRIBE VIA EMAIL
Enter your email address to subscribe to this site

and receive notifications of new posts by email.
Email
SUBSCRIBE
RECENT FORUM TOPICS
› lensrentals.com Keeper program
› Interior shot with a D7000
› Looking for your suggestion D7100 &Nikon 200-500
› Photo Albums
› Importing LR catalog from an external drive
› Photo Booth, Cubs Win
› Nikon camera and lens kit recommendations for
enthusiast photography
› Lens for Nikon 5300
PHOTOGRAPHY LIFE COURSES
SITE MENU REVIEWS
Photography Tips Camera Reviews

Forum Lens Reviews
Lens Database Other Gear Reviews
Photo Spots
Submit Content
Subscribe
Copyright © 2017 Photography Life

Crop in Lightroom

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Crop in Lightroom

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

How to Crop in Lightroom and Why Page 1 of 39

HOME / PHOTOGRAPHY TUTORIALS / HOW TO CROP IN LIGHTROOM AND WHY

How to Crop in Lightroom and Why     60

NIKON D7200 + 150-600mm f/5-6.3 @ 600mm, ISO 640, 1/1600, f/10.0

NIKON D7200 + 150-600mm f/5-6.3 @ 600mm, ISO 640, 1/1600, f/10.0

NIKON D810 + 70-200mm f/4 @ 135mm, ISO 100, 1/400, f/5.6

NIKON D7200 + 70-200mm f/4 @ 170mm, ISO 500, 1/800, f/10.0

NIKON D810 + 500mm f/4 @ 700mm, ISO 640, 1/1250, f/7.1

NIKON D7200 + 500mm f/4 @ 700mm, ISO 400, 1/1250, f/9.0

Adjusting all four edges into a rough square.

And, d’oh! Who hasn’t gone through a grunge bird phase?

NIKON D4S + 500mm f/4 @ 700mm, ISO 1000, 1/500, f/11.0

This scene lent itself to a narrow horizontal crop.

Horizon tilted above.

Rule of thirds grid.

And Fibonacci spiral.

Cropping in Lightroom (Video)

How to Deal with Naysayers

All contents © John Sherman, no reproduction without prior written permission.

FILED UNDER: PHOTOGRAPHY TUTORIALS

About John Sherman

Ha ha ha, I really had to smile sometimes :-)

Greetings from photo hell

I wonder which will be easier?

3.1.1) Colin Adams

“It’s very simple reasoning.”

NOVEMBER 11, 2015 AT 5:20 AM

“So the extra image data is just not wanted.”

Why then did you invest in a 36 Mp camera?

You have managed to miss every point I made.

3. “..and i can produce smaller, more manageable files.”

4.1) John Sherman

4.2.1) mahhi cat

4.2.2) Swati P.S.

Photography belongs to the author, no one else.

You’re quite wrong.

Sorry, why can’t the outer pixels be used?

10) Colin Adams

11) Neal F. Rattican

Another great collection of words Verm,

Yep, I have the same problem.

Oh Lord I’m a sinner!!!

17) Colin Adams

No I’m not confused.

18) Peter Connan

Verm, another great article. I love your humorous approach.

18.1) John Sherman

19) Colin Adams

OK, longer explanation.

(BTW it’s 15 MP, not 18 MP in DX mode).

This usually results in an ISO of 3200 (I set that as my limit).

21) Colin Adams

You are confused – No?

23) Colin Paul Adams

Gosh, I am impressed – how do you tell?

25) Jorge Balarin

27) Aaron Shepard

27.1) Michel Poisson

28) Bill Micol

My name is Bill and I’m a cropper.

Bill, your’e not alone.

30) Allan Wood

31) Martin Rumbolz

This is my workflow and i like it very much.