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by BrittLiv
I have been obsessed with LEGO ever since I can one. Sadly they are rare and most of the time really
remember. Those small plastic building blocks were expensive. The wooden LEGO duck is by far my
de nitely one of my favorite toys as a kid and I still favorite toy of that line, but I was never able to buy it.
buy LEGO sets from time to time, even though I am in So I nally decided to make my own. The bonus of
my thirties now (I have also written three making one myself is that I can give it to my son and
Instructables that have to do with LEGO so far). not worry about its value.
As a new mother my son is de nitely still too young The special thing about it is that when it moves it
for the small LEGO pieces, but he has a bunch of opens and closes its beak. I hope that you will have as
LEGO PRIMOS. much fun with it as I do.
Many probably don't know, but before the founder of It took until 1958 until a patent was led for what
LEGO Ole Kirk Kristiansen produced the small plastic became the modern LEGO brick. They were a vast
bricks, he solely produced wooden toys. improvement over LEGO’s earlier Automatic Binding
Bricks.
In 1934 he came up with the name "LEGO", which
stems from the Danish words "LEg GOdt", meaning The wooden lego duck was rst produced in 1935 and
"playing well". Ole Kirk always said that "children was fabricated up until LEGO stopped making
deserve the best" and later adopted the motto "only wooden toys in 1960. It is without a doubt the most
the best is good enough". famous wooden toy LEGO ever produced.
After solely producing wooden toys until 1948, Ole If you would like to see more wooden LEGO toys than
Kirk purchased a plastic injection molding machine go ahead and check out this photostream.
that would change LEGO forever and make it the
household name it is today. From that moment on, he
began replacing the wooden toys with plastic ones.
drawing with measurements, so I was able to scale As for the wood I decided to go with larch since I
everything to the correct size. bought a vintage toy (a broken one I am planning on
xing) and I am very sure that it is made from larch.
So my duck should be extremely close to the original
one.
Here is what you need to make your own wooden LEGO duck:
M a t e ria l
Wood (4 mm, 8 mm, and 18 mm thick). As explained in the last step I used larch. Sadly I can't plane 4
mm thin. Therefore I used plywood for these parts.
6 mm round wooden pole (two 63 mm long pieces and one about 108 mm long)
1 mm wire (I tried thicker wire, but couldn't bend it) and thinner wire is too imsy
Paint: red, green, blue, black, white, brown, dark yellow*
Varnish*
Spray Adhesive Glue
Carbon Copy Paper (I used this one (#CommissionsEarned**))
Nails (three 1.5 mm x 20 mm)
Optional: primer
Scroll saw
Drill press (1.5 mm; 2 mm; 3 mm; 6 mm; 7 mm; 10 mm drill bits)
Disc sander
Pliers
Scissors
Router (rounding cutter: diameter 32.7 mm, radius 10 mm with a bearing)
Paintbrushes
Clamps
Optional: 44 m hole saw
* Please make sure that all the paints and varnishes are safe to use for toys. In Europe, they have to comply with
DIN EN 71/3 "Safety of toys - Part 3: Migration of certain elements". Check the can, it should have a label on it.
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FV7/Q0ZB/KG3OXMWL/FV7Q0ZBKG3OXMWL.pdf
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FLO/499C/KG3OXMWM/FLO499CKG3OXMWM.pdf
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FC8/72EK/KG3OXMWN/FC872EKKG3OXMWN.pdf
Start by downloading the templates from the last of the duck. The template also includes the wheels,
step and print them. Apply spray adhesive to the back should you not want to use a hole saw. To cut the
and stick them to the wood that matches the other 8 mm pieces a circular saw may be better than a
thickness that is noted on the paper. scroll saw. But I recently got my scroll saw and wanted
to practice straight lines.
Please make sure to align the grain along the length
Now on to cutting the pieces. I used a scroll saw to so. around the black lines and somehow close along the
There are black lines, blue lines, and green lines. blue lines as shown in the second picture.
The blue lines are needed so that you can hold the As you can see in the picture I didn't cut too close to
pieces during the routing and should help you with the line on the 4 mm pieces since I had some tear out
getting better corners. and gured that I could easily sand them to the
correct size, as shown in the third picture.
So in the rst go, cut along the lines that are thicker in
the rst image of this step. You should cut precisely
Now onto the routing. I got the bit I needed but had
to nd out that it didn't t into my router. So I had to
remove the base plate. I wanted to round the corners,
but just slightly and not all the way. So instead of
using the whole radius of 10 mm I used about 8 mm,
as shown in the image on the left.
Now back to the scroll saw. Simply cut along all the black lines. As you can see in the third picture, I forgot the
inside of the front of the duck and had to remove it later.
Onto the drilling. Most of it is pretty straightforward. 7 mm hole that needs to be drilled. Mark the center of
The sizes of the holes are noted on the template. I the hole on top of the duck and drill all the way
used a hole saw to cut the wheels, as you can see in through. Make sure that the piece is standing
the second picture. perfectly upright otherwise the mechanism won't
work.
The green lines on the front piece of the duck marks a
Step 9: Assembly
Before the assembly, all the pieces need to be sanded. Then glue the eyes to the top of the head of the duck
But make sure not to remove the paper from the as shown in the third picture. I used a piece of wire for
bottom pieces as shown in the rst picture, since you the alignment.
will need them for alignment later on.
As you can see in the last picture I marked where the
Simply glue the wings to the body pieces as shown in moving part goes and sanded some of it away so that
the second picture. the head can move smoothly.
Now cut the wooden pole to the correct length. The axles need to be 63 mm long and the wooden pole that moves
the head about 108 mm.
The wheels and the duck aren't centered. Therefore you have to make sure that the arrows are pointing to the front
and the thinner part underneath the holes has to be on the bottom as shown in the second and third picture.
In order to attach the duck to the bottom, I used a the front of the duck. To glue the pieces together, I
vice. I tried using a clamp on my prototypes. but it used weights as shown in the third picture.
didn't work too well.
Once the glue is dried I used nails to add some more
Place the duck in the center and use your 108 mm stability as shown in the last picture.
pole to align it. The pole has to go through the 10 mm
hole in the bottom and 7 mm hole that goes through
Onto the painting. The plywood I used had a defect, I found a fun little story about varnishing the toys:
so before painting, I lled it with wood ller.
Godtfred Kirk (Ole Kirk's son) is laying the nishing
The original LEGO wood toy I own is not primed, but I touches on a consignment of wooden LEGO ducks.
decided to prime mine so that the paint stays on it This means applying coats of varnish, and nally
better. bringing the boxes with the nished toy ducks to the
train station for dispatch. Back at the workshop,
There are many di erent versions of the duck out Godtfred proudly announces to his father that he has
there so you can, of course, paint it however you done something really clever and saved the company
would like. money. – “How did you manage that?” asks Ole Kirk. –
“I gave the ducks just two coats of varnish, not three
I have uploaded my color scheme to this step, which is as we usually do,” is Godtfred Kirk’s answer. Back
a direct copy of the original one. Feel free to use it. comes his father’s prompt response: – “You will
There are two les, one for each side. I used carbon immediately fetch those ducks back, give them the
copy paper to trace the lines onto the duck, as shown last coat of varnish, pack them and return them to the
in the third picture. station! And you will do it on your own – even if it
takes you all night!”
I painted one color at a time, but if you have paint
that has better opacity than mine you might want to So, of course, we are going to add three coats of
think about using base colors and adding the details varnish.
ontop (it took me about ve layers for each color).
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FKM/7HRO/KG54ADA7/FKM7HROKG54ADA7.pdf
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https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FOV/817V/KG54ADOJ/FOV817VKG54ADOJ.pdf
Next, we are going to attach the mechanism to the Place the piece into your toy and drive a nail into it.
axle. I marked the middle of the axle and place the Afterward, I covered the hole with some glue and
small distance piece onto it. I was afraid that it could sanded it smooth.
break if I would directly drive the nail into it and
therefore predrilled a 1.5 mm hole. To sink in the nail
head I drill another short 4 mm hole into it.
Now attach the wheels and paint the visible parts of the length of the poles is right. If so, use a 1 mm wire
the axles red. and attach the head to the body as shown in the last
picture. Otherwise, shorten it slightly and test again.
At this point, we are going to dry- t the mechanism.
Place the wooden pole through the top of the neck Congratulation, you are done. I hope you have fun
and place the head onto it. Depending on how well with it!
you cut and aligned the pieces the length may be
slightly o . Turn the front wheel and check whether
Thank you I had a lot of fun making it and my son loves it. So overall a gret project.