WW3681_01_Cover B 4/16/04 10:29 AM Page 1

COLLECTOR’S EDITION: BACKYARD CLASSICS YOU CAN BUILD

Summer 2004

$5.99US $8.99CAN
$5.99 U.S.
$8.99 Canada/Foreign

42

0 09281 02123 0
WW3681_02-03 4/14/04 4:06 PM Page 2
WW3681_02-03 4/14/04 4:07 PM Page 3

Accessorize your deck or patio with beautiful outdoor furniture you make! Each plan includes easy-to-
follow instructions, exploded view, cutting diagram, helpful shop hints and bill of materials.

Build a backyard structure that will be the envy of your neighborhood. Choose from eye-catching
garden footbridge, arbor/bench, octagon gazebo, Colonial barn and more great designs!

Rockler has all the deck-building hardware you need to get the
job done right, from stainless steel exterior screws to hidden deck
fastening system and deck bench brackets.

Code 74011
(Circle No. 9 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)
WW3681_04 4/12/04 2:23 PM Page 4

(Circle No. 3 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

WW3681_05 4/15/04 10:08 AM Page 5

Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

8 Woodworking for the Great Outdoors

By Chris Marshall
Page
18 Oriental Redwood Arbor 64
By Stan Schmidt
Build a trellised classic for the yard.

26 Gardener’s Workstation
By Stan Schmidt
Gardeners need workbenches too.

32 Portable Outdoor Chairs

By Rick White Page 18
Classic two-piece nesting chairs.

38 Patio Furniture Spruce-up

By Michael Dresdner Pages 48 & 56
Make sure your outdoor furniture lasts. Page
32
48 Spanish Cedar Picnic Table
By John English
Secrets to tackling a curved outdoor table.

56 Picnic Table Benches

By John English
Curved benches complete John’s table.

59 Child’s Adirondack Chair and Settee

By John English
This charmer converts from chairs to settee. Page 73

64 Victorian Birdhouse
By Larry Stoiaken
Share some shop time with a youngster.

66 Portable Folding Bench

By John English
Light and portable: perfect for the big game.

73 Modular Bench with Planter

By Rick White
Define the deck and boost your seating.

76 Classic Croquet Set Page 59

By Ron Hampton
All you need is a lathe and a weekend. Page 26

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 5

WW3681_06 4/19/04 9:59 AM Page 6
SUMMER 2004
woodworkersjournal.com
LARRY N. STOIAKEN Editor in Chief
JOHN KELLIHER Art Director
ROB JOHNSTONE Editor
JEFF JACOBSON Associate Art Director
JOANNA WERCH TAKES Associate Editor
STEVE HINDERAKER Photographer
ANN ROCKLER JACKSON Publisher
JILL ARENS Circulation Director
KELLY ROSAAEN Circulation Assistant
SARAH M. GREER Advertising &
Production Director
LISA REHMAN Advertising Assistant
JOE FAHEY Production Assistant
Special Projects Editor
CHRIS MARSHALL
Contributing Editors
MICHAEL DRESDNER JOHN ENGLISH
RICK WHITE MIKE MCGLYNN
ADVERTISING SALES
J.F. Van Gilder Company
P.O. BOX 802405, Dallas Texas 75380
DAVID BECKLER david@jvgco.com
JIM VAN GILDER jim@jvgco.com
Phone: (972) 392-1892
Fax: (972) 392-1893
SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES
(800) 765-4119 or
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Write Woodworker’s Journal, P.O. Box
56585, Boulder, CO 80322-6585. E-mail:
woodworkersjournal@neodata.com.
Include mailing label for renewals and
address changes. For gift subscriptions,
include your name and address in
addition to your gift recipient’s.
BACK ISSUES & REPRINTS
Woodworker’s Journal or Today’s Woodworker
Call: (800)610-0883
www.woodworkersjournal.com
Outdoor Projects is published by Rockler
Press Inc., 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN
55340. Single copy price, $5.99 (U.S.); $8.99
(Canada/other countries). Reproduction
without permission prohibited.
Printed in the USA.
WEB SITE: www.woodworkersjournal.com
©2004 Rockler Press Inc., Printed in USA.
6 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
Summertime Projects
B
etween the baseball tournaments and lawn care, you may let a few
cobwebs gather in the shop these summer months. There’s no
arguing that summer is too short to stay holed up inside. But the dog days
are the perfect time to dig into some fresh lumber and create a project or
two for the great outdoors. In this special Collector’s Edition, I’ve pulled
together some real classics that will add charm and grace to your outdoor
scene. I’m confident you’ll find
a project or two that will beautify
your yard while offering enough
of a challenge to keep your
woodworking skills sharp.
To start your planning, Chris
Marshall boils down the best
choices for weather-resistant
lumber, glues, finishes and
hardware, starting on page 8.
If your patio doesn’t host as
many barbecues as it used to,
maybe John English’s Spanish
cedar Picnic Table (see page 48)
and Benches (see page 56) will
renew your outdoor entertaining.
While you’re at it, add some
seating for those guests and a bit
of greenery with the Modular Bench with Planter on page 73. I’ll bet the
kids would love their own pint-sized Child’s Adirondack Chairs, and our
plans show you how to convert them into a handy Settee (see page 59).
Long evenings on the sidelines of the soccer field will be more enjoyable
if you build a couple of Rick White’s Portable Outdoor Chairs (see page 32)
or the equally sturdy and comfortable Portable Folding Bench (see page 66).
If gardening is one of your many passions, we’ve got you covered. Stan
Schmidt’s Gardener’s Workstation on page 26 is designed to keep your
potting supplies and tools within easy reach. If your yard or garden is
missing a signature focal point, have a look at the Redwood Arbor on page 18.
Do you have curious kids around the shop just waiting for a chance to
build something, too? The Birdhouse on page 64 may be just the ticket to
start passing on the craft — I had a great time putting this one together
with my daughter years ago. And when summer finally draws to a close,
give it a proper send-off on Labor Day with a croquet tournament.
You can build Ron Hampton’s
complete Croquet Set —
including balls! — with
the plans on page 76.
Happy woodworking!
WW3681_07 4/14/04 2:17 PM Page 7

MORTISE & TENON JIG

FROM
$299.00

Worldwide
Patent Pending
PCT/GB02/00253

This innovative new jig enables

mortise & tenons to be cut
accurately with a router.
Ideal for cabinet, chair and table construction, the jig is easy and
quick to use with any make of router. Just one template set-up
is required to rout both the mortise and tenon for perfect fitting
joints. The jig can produce widths of tenons from 3/16" to 1/2"
and the timber positions can be adjusted for compound angle
joints. The reversible templates enable round or square end
tenons to be routed and have template apertures for producing
accurate dowel joints.

AD/04/11

www.trend-usa.com
Tel: (859) 485 2080 Fax: (859) 485-2286
(Circle No. 14 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)
WW3681_08-14 4/7/04 1:26 PM Page 8

Woodworking for the Great Outdoors

When it comes to lumber, glues and finishes, a few smart choices
on the front end will add years of life to your exterior furniture.
By Chris Marshall

Photos courtesy California Redwood Association

One advantage to outdoor furniture is that,

on the whole, it’s easier to build than indoor
furniture. But even with easier construction,
what’s critical to the success of patio or yard
furniture is how it stands up to the elements
over time. Sunlight, water damage and
insects can spell doom for outdoor projects
unless you make some preemptive material
decisions before you build. Choose wisely,
and that Adirondack settee you make this
month for the kids will probably still be
around when they graduate high school.
Here’s a short study on choosing outdoor
woods, adhesives, hardware and finishes so
you can get your project off on the right foot
and ensure that it will live a long, useful life.

Choosing Outdoor-tough Lumber

Most furniture lumber can withstand a season
or two outdoors before rot takes hold,
especially under a couple of coats
of primer and paint. However,
a handful of lumber species have
natural tannins and extractives that
make them especially well suited
Old-growth redwood is now protected and can be hard
for exterior use, with or without to find as lumber. Recycled planks from old barns are
a finish applied. Some are easy to often the best source for this precious timber.
find regardless of where you live,
while others are in shorter supply.
Here are your best options:
for outdoor use, but it has a higher percentage of sapwood
Redwood than the lumber that came from its mammoth forebears
Redwood is still available in Western states, but you won’t a hundred years ago. Old-growth redwood ranges
typically find it stocked in the lumberyard elsewhere in color from tobacco brown to deep crimson, but
in the country. Tannins and natural oils in the wood second-growth redwood is more typically a mix of
resist fungal decay and insect pests. Once prized as the reddish heartwood and lighter sapwood. The wood is
premier lumber for siding, exterior furniture and deck fine-grained and surprisingly lightweight. Old-growth
construction, first-growth redwood is a rare commodity lumber is often knot-free.
these days with a premium price tag. What you’re more Redwood is a softwood that’s easy to mill with sharp
likely to find now is second-growth wood from younger, blades and bits, but dull cutters produce splinters and
faster growing redwood trees. It’s still a durable wood lift the grain. Be sure to wear a mask when working

8 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_08-14 4/7/04 1:29 PM Page 9
Redwood
with redwood. The dust can be a respiratory irritant,
especially if you already have allergies or asthma.
Cedar
Western red cedar is probably the least expensive and
most accessible exterior lumber option. It’s easy to find
at home centers and lumberyards in many parts of the
country. Depending on your location and the demands
of regional construction, you may be able to buy
cedar in both 2x and lx thicknesses as well as post
and beam dimensions and 5/4 decking. As an
outdoor wood, it fares well against rot and
insects, especially if you select boards with
minimal sapwood. The heartwood has a higher
level of natural extractives than the sapwood
to fight fungal growth that leads to rotting.
Cedar has a familiar, pleasant aroma when
machined, and the wood is easy to work
with both hand and power tools. Its fibers
are soft and prone to splintering, similar to
redwood, so treat end grain carefully
especially when routing.
Cypress
Cypress is a swamp wood common to Southern
and Southeastern states. The lumber has exceptional
fungicidal properties, and wood-loving insects avoid it
like the plague. Aside from a difference in smell,
cypress looks, works and feels like cedar, but it tends to
be more expensive. The fibers are soft and easily dented,
but it cuts, routs and sands almost effortlessly.
Cypress
Antique, reclaimed “sinker” cypress is an
emerging lumber source you might consider
for your outdoor projects. Much of this wood
comes from virgin timber logs dredged up from
the bottoms of lakes and rivers. The logs sank
en route to lumber mills a century or so ago, and
the wood may be hundreds, upwards to a thousand,
years old. Thicknesses of 4/4 or more aren’t hard to
find in oversized widths and in lengths exceeding 8'.
White Oak
White oak has been used for centuries in the manufac-
ture of wine and whiskey barrels in part because it
contains the pore-filling substance tyloses. Since water
doesn’t penetrate the pores, neither does fungus.
Tannic acids in the oak also provide
natural fungicides while
Cedar protecting the
wood from termites
and other insect pests.
Quartersawn white oak is
dimensionally more stable — and more
expensive — than flatsawn white oak, but
either cut is an excellent choice for outdoor
projects. The wood fibers are hard, so
they’ll stand up well to wear and tear, but
white oak isn’t difficult to cut or shape
with carbide bits and blades. Be careful
that the stock you buy isn’t red oak,
which lacks the tyloses and won’t fare
well outside.
continues on page 10 ...
9
WW3681_08-14 4/14/04 4:28 PM Page 10
Mahogany
Mahogany is a general term that covers several species
of semi-exotic hardwoods, but the two most common
types are Honduras and American mahogany. American
mahogany comes from Central and South America or
Cuba, with the Cuban variety being most valuable and
rare. Honduras mahogany primary hails from South
America and is widely available from managed plantations.
Avoid lauan or “Philippine” mahogany, which isn’t actually
a true mahogany and won’t withstand the elements like
Honduras or American varieties.
Among a laundry list of virtues, mahogany is a dense
lumber that cuts and planes like softwood and accepts
fasteners and finishes readily. Its density helps it resist
shrinking and warping — a real benefit for outdoor
applications where temperature and humidity levels
change dramatically. The huge size and rapid growth
rate of mahogany trees also make it easy to find both
wide and thick lumber. Grain pattern ranges from
straight and uniform to interlocked, swirled or flaked.
Teak
A beautiful, dense and oily hard-
wood, teak grows in Southeast
Asia, the East Indies and
now in both Latin
America and Africa.
Burmese teak is
most prized, but
be careful to
shop from
suppliers
that sell
lumber
Teak
Selecting the Right Hardware
Water is a common enemy to both the lumber you pick
for outdoor projects and the hardware that holds it together.
Fasteners that stand up best to the elements are those the
boatbuilders use: stainless steel, bronze or solid brass. The
primary advantage to these three metals is corrosion
resistance. Both brass and stainless steel are softer metals
than typical hardened steel screws, so drilling pilot holes
is a must, especially if you’re building with rock-hard white
oak or teak. Lubricate the screws with beeswax to make
driving them even easier. Or tap the screw holes first with
a harder screw, then drive the softer fasteners home.
10
from managed plantations using
renewable growing methods.
Teak’s limited availability and
steep import costs make it the
priciest of these outdoor lum-
ber options. It’s also the
heaviest choice. If the
board foot cost doesn’t
dent your wallet, the
shipping charges will.
Teak contains high
concentrations of silica,
so the lumber will dull
steel cutting tools
more rapidly than other
lumbers, but carbide cutters Mahogany
hold up better. The natural
oils in teak can impair the bonding strength of some
adhesives. For optimal gluing strength, use epoxy or
polyurethane glue here.
Douglas Fir or Southern Yellow Pine
Both of these softwoods are relatively strong and
dimensionally stable, which is why they’re commonly
used for larger framing lumber. Read the grade stamps
printed on the 2 x 10s and 2 x 12s at your home center
or lumberyard to be sure of what you’re buying.
Although neither option will hold up as long as teak,
mahogany or white oak, they’re still viable choices
for outdoor furniture when painted — and they’re
affordable. Definitely choose one of these two woods
over less durable spruces, pines or firs for outdoor
applications.
Another cheap option for a painted project is to use
treated wood, which generally is either Douglas fir or
Southern yellow pine anyway.
continues on page 12 ...
Another option is to use coated or galvanized exterior-
grade screws, bolts and nails sold for deck building. The
screws are made from hardened steel to resist stripping or
breakage, and some styles have self-tapping auger tips and
heads. On soft lumber like cedar, you may not even need to
predrill before fastening. The downside to galvanized
hardware is that the coating sometimes reacts with acidic
woods like redwood or cedar and leaves black stains that
are tough to remove.
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_11 4/19/04 9:14 AM Page 11

Women in
woodworking
Come online and exchange
tips, opinions and ideas for all
your woodworking projects.
Information specifically geared
for women in the shop!

Stop by for a visit!

www.womeninwoodworking.com

BUILD YOUR OWN

HEIRLOOM QUALITY CLOCK!
• Clock Motors
• Desk, Mantle, Wall &
Floor Kits
• Highest Quality Wood
• Finished Clocks
• Atomic Time Products
• Guaranteed Satisfaction

Order online at: www.klockit.com

For Your FREE Catalog Call Today!
® 1-800-KLOCKIT That’s 1-800-556-2548
Mention Offer: WJS04

(Circle No. 5 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

(Circle No. 17 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 11

WW3681_08-14 4/7/04 1:35 PM Page 12

Exterior Finishes that Weather the Test of Time

Regardless of which outdoor lumber you use, the pores. Add oxygen and moderate temperature to the
ravages of sunlight and moisture will eventually have equation, and conditions are right for fungus and
their way in the end. Although this might be decades mildew to grow. Blue-black stains on the surface are sure
from now, the best way to extend the life of your patio signs that mold is setting in. Moisture not only initiates
and yard furniture is to protect it with a tough surface rot but further loosens the bond between the wood and
finish. The best finish to use depends on the particular finish, exposing more bare wood. It also attracts
project, your maintenance efforts over time and the termites and other wood boring insects.
amount it will be exposed to the elements.
Jerry TerHark, who lectures nationwide on wood Finish Options
finishing, says outdoor wood finishes face two major For an exterior finish to do its job, it needs to slow down
natural challenges. Sunlight is an ever-present enemy. the degradation of UV light, form a water-resistant seal
For paint and varnish finishes, sunlight initially helps and offer at least some degree of protection from nicks
the surface film polymerize and dry when it combines and scuffs. So, your choices of finish amount to three
with heat and air. However, polymerization continues options: marine spar varnish, a penetrating wood
even after the finish dries, and as the finish continues preservative or a good coating
to harden it eventually becomes brittle. Sunlight also of exterior primer
breaks down the line where the wood and finish and several coats
meet, which loosens the adhesive bond of paint.
resulting in cracking and peeling. Marine spar
Where sunlight leaves off, varnish has made
moisture continues the its way into wood-
destructive work. working from the
Water penetrates boatbuilding industry.
under the coat- The best spar varnishes are
ing of finish — combinations of tung oil and
either through phenolic resin with a high
the end grain, oil-to-resin content. The more
which is harder to oil the varnish contains, the
seal, or through cracks more flexible the surface film
and openings left by remains as it polymerizes.
ultraviolet sunlight. Your choice of a spar
Once under the finish, varnish should also
water enters the wood
continues on page 14 ...

Adhesives that Hold Tough, Rain or Shine

Several varieties of wood glue are formulated to stand tough against water exposure,
temperature extremes and degradation from sunlight. The most user-friendly options are yellow
PVA wood glues intended for exterior projects. Titebond ® II and the new Titebond ® III varieties,
among others, clean up with soap and water and have good bonding characteristics on all but
the oiliest exterior lumbers.
If you’re building with teak or other exotic woods with high oil content, polyurethane glue
is a better choice. It cures by taking a small amount of moisture from the wood or air and
combining with it to form a permanent bond. Most formulations foam up as they cure, so
clamping is essential to keep glue joints from separating. However, Franklin International’s
HiPURformer poly glue dispenses from a heat gun similar to hot-melt glue without foaming
or expanding.
Two-part epoxy, a third weatherproof adhesive, is also a good option for bonding oily woods.
It doesn’t expand as it cures and even fills gaps on misfitting joints.

12 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_13 4/12/04 2:34 PM Page 13

(Circle No. 6 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

WW3681_08-14 4/7/04 1:36 PM Page 14
(Circle No. 8 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)
ShadeTree® Retractable Canopies
Turn your hot deck or patio into a
shaded “outdoor room”!
• Retractable for sun or shade
• Unlike traditional retractable awnings,
ShadeTree® Canopies cover LARGE areas -
extend over 20 feet! (no pitch required)
• Flexible design -adapts to existing structures
(arbors) with many models available and a wide
choice of fabrics (guaranteed not to fade)
• Easy do-it-yourself installation, or we’ll arrange
installation for you
• Easy financing available
• Patented wind protection
FREE catalog, video & on-line estimate
shadetreecanopies .com/2134
or call: 1-888-31-SHADE (888-317-4233)
(Circle No. 11 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)
14
include UV absorbers that
help block the penetration
of light to the wood. Spar
varnish covers the wood
with a thick, high-gloss
coating. The soft surface
film moves with the wood
as it moves, to resist cracking
and peeling.
For best results over time, buy the
highest quality spar varnish you can find. Marine
suppliers are a good source for boat-grade finish.
Apply three or more coats, allowing plenty of
drying time between each coat. More coats
improve the protective film. Scuff-sand with
320-grit stearated paper between each coat once
it cures. Recoat as soon as the finish gets chalky.
There’s no need to strip the finish; just sand it to
remove the chalk and provide some “tooth” for
the new varnish.
Another easier option is penetrating wood
finish, sold either as a wood finish or for finishing
decks and fences. These contain a mix of oil and
solvents, mildewcide and UV blockers.
Penetrating wood finish won’t build to the same
LA
SH E A
flexible film as spar varnish, but it will help repel
RG
AD RE
E AS
water for a time, slow down UV damage and is
easier to maintain.
Apply penetrating wood finish with a garden
sprayer or brush, let it soak into the wood, then
wipe off the excess. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendations for surface prep, and plan to
recoat annually if you want to keep the wood from
turning silvery gray. When water doesn’t bead on
the surface, it’s time to recoat.
Some outdoor wood projects look best with
a clear finish, but if this isn’t important to you,
exterior latex or alkyd paint is a third good finish
choice. The high pigment content of paint totally
blocks sunlight, and most outdoor paint contains
mildewcides to keep mold at bay. As with all
finishes, surface prep is critical. Start with clean,
dry wood and apply the exterior primer recom-
mended by the paint label. If you skip the primer,
expect the paint to fail in a season or less. Allow
Extends or retracts the primer and each layer of paint to dr y
for sun or shade thoroughly before applying the next coat.
In cases where you’d like to change the wood
color but still retain the surface texture, consider
a solid color stain. It has a lower pigment content
Retractable Canopies than paint, which creates a thinner surface film
6317 Busch Blvd • Dept. 2134 that doesn’t hide the grain texture but still provides
Columbus, OH 43229
ample moisture and UV protection.
© Copyright 2004 ShadeTree Systems,LLC. All rights reserved.
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_15 4/23/04 11:23 AM Page 15

ADVERTISERS
INDEX
To receive FREE information on any
of the products or services shown in
this issue, circle the appropriate reader
service number(s) on the attached
PRODUCT INFORMATION CARD.

No. Advertiser Page

1 Amana Tool Corp......................................16
2 American Sycamore........................84
3 Franklin International..........................4
4 General International................................16
5 Klockit ................................................................1 1
6 Laguna Tools ................................................13
8 Laserkerf................................................................14
16 Makita U.S.A Inc......................................83 (Circle No. 18 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

7 MasterGage Corp......................................15
T A B L E S A W • D R I L L P R E S S
17 Oneida Air Systems, Inc ........................1 1

R O U T E R
S L I D I N G

9, 10 Rockler Woodworking
& Hardware........................................2, 3, 16
Master your
Rockler.com..................................................71
Routermania.com........................................71
Machinery
T A B L E

• Calibrate • Tune

•
1 1 Shade Tree..............................................................14 • Align • Set Up

S A N D E R
12 ShopBot..............................................................17
Free Catalog: 1/888/893-8300
13 Simp'l Products ........................................72 ®
S A W

MasterGage . com
14 Trend Machinery
& Cutting Tools, Ltd................................7
MasterGage Classic
•

B E L T / D R U M / D I S K

WomeninWoodworking.com ..............1 1
R A D I A L

19 Woodline USA, Inc ..................................37

18 Woodmaster Tools ....................................15
Woodworker's Journal........................37, 71
A R M

188 Woodworker's Journal eZine................71

For information about advertising

S A W

in Woodworker’s Journal magazine,

please contact David Beckler,
david@jvgco.com or 800-878-7137.
J O I N T E R • S H A P E R • P L A N E R
www.woodworkersjournal.com/advertisinginfo/index.htm (Circle No. 7 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 15

WW3681_16 4/14/04 2:21 PM Page 16

(Circle No. 1 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

WOODWORKING AND HARDWARE

INTRODUCING our innovative Roller Support

with Universal Clamp —exclusively at Rockler!
Call or go online to get your FREE catalog today! Code 74012

1-800-403-9736-or- rockler.com/go/V4369
(Circle No. 4 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form) (Circle No. 10 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

16 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_17 4/23/04 11:31 AM Page 17

(Circle No. 12 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

Outdoor Projects Summer 2004 17
WW3681_18-25 4/7/04 2:29 PM Page 18
Oriental Redwood Arbor
Add an element of sophistication to your garden or yard.
T he last tool I expected to grab
center stage for this redwood
arbor was the radial arm saw, which
lately has taken a back seat to
motorized and portable compound
miter saws. But I quickly found out
that my trusty old radial arm was the
perfect power tool for cutting a lot of
dadoes on long pieces of wood. So if
a radial arm saw is gathering dust in
18
By Stan Schmidt
a corner of your shop, wipe off the
cobwebs because you’ll create
a mountain of redwood garden mulch
building this Oriental-flavored arbor.
An arbor is a multi-functional
structure. It can be the focal point
for your garden or an inviting lawn
centerpiece. You can use it to create
an entranceway, accent a path or
frame a spectacular river view. This
arbor, equipped with a trellis on
two sides, is ideal for displaying
and growing climbing roses, ivy,
morning glories, clematis or other
flowering vines.
The arbor was crafted entirely of
redwood, including the screw hole
plugs. However, I didn’t splurge for
expensive, clear, all-heart redwood,
which is kiln-dried and void of knots
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_18-25 4/7/04 2:30 PM Page 19
on the graded faces. Instead, I used
air-dried construction heart redwood.
I did have to buy a few more pieces so
I could cut around some of the knots,
especially while making the fragile
trellises, but I was still money ahead.
Of course, if you live in or close to
California, the cost differences
between clear or construction
redwood may be smaller, but not
where I live here in Minnesota.
You also could substitute other
decay-resistant woods like cypress
or cedar instead of using redwood.
The arbor features an Oriental look
with shaped trellis rails, stretchers
and beams. Construction consists of
mortise-and-tenon, half-lap, lap and
bridle joints. But the wedged tenons
that appear to hold the trellis rails to
the posts are just decorative touches.
Those rail tenons sticking through
the post mortises are really held in
place with stainless steel screws
hidden beneath redwood plugs.
Making Two Trellises
You could rip 28 lattice strips for the
two trellises and then cut the half-lap
dadoes on each strip, but there’s an
easier and faster method — and one
that virtually eliminates tearout.
Figure 1: Make the lattice strips gang-style
from 1" x 8" boards by first dadoing them on
a radial arm saw with an indexing key on the
fence. Then rip the wide boards into 3/4" wide
lattice strips on the table saw.
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
Cut three pieces of 1" x 8" redwood
to about 32" and two pieces to about
52". These will be used to create the
lattice strips (pieces 1 and 2) and the
cleats (pieces 3 and 4). Rip the eight
cleats from these boards and set
them aside. Now rip a couple of strips
off one of the longer boards to create
some test pieces. Mount a 3/4" dado
set on your radial arm saw and set
the depth of cut to 3/8". Cut dadoes
on the test pieces and adjust your
depth of cut until you achieve a perfect
half-lap joint. (Note: For safety,
clamp your pieces firmly to the saw’s
table and use both hands to carefully
pull the saw forward.)
The first dado is cut 5" from one
end of each board (see the Elevation
Drawings, page 24, for all the dado
locations). Set up your saw’s fence
with a 3/4" wide indexing key to cut
the second dado 41 ⁄ 4" from the first
dado (see Figure 1). Now you can
proceed to cut the rest of the
dadoes. When they’ve all been cut,
trim each board to final size, 5" from
the last dado. This way, if you’re off
even the tiniest fraction, you’ll still
end up with lattice strips that are
equally spaced, even after the cleats
are attached later. Now rip all your
lattice strips to size.
The easy way to make sure
you achieve a square lattice frame
is to start with a mounting board
(see Figure 2, above) that has been
squared up on the table saw. I
used a flat piece of 3/4" plywood
approximately 21" x 41". This allowed
me to glue and clamp the strips
in place, aligning one horizontal
strip and one vertical strip with
the respective edges of the mounting
board. I covered the board with
wax paper to make sure I didn’t glue
the strips and the board together.
Figure 2: A square piece of plywood makes
a good mounting board to ensure that each
trellis remains square during assembly.
Cutting Mortise and Tenon Joints
This project requires two different
through mortise and tenon joints.
The first is centered on the posts
(pieces 5) and will hold the trellis
rails (pieces 6). Start by laying out
the mortises on each post (see the
Detail Drawings on page 22 and the
Elevation Drawings on page 24) and
then, with a 3/4" Forstner bit in your
drill press, drill out as much waste as
you can. If your bit isn’t long enough
to go completely through the post,
remember to keep the same side of
the post against your drill press
fence when you flip the post over.
This way, the bit will cut the mortise
evenly through from both sides.
Finish each mortise by squaring it
up with a sharp chisel.
The odds are good that you will
run into some wet redwood while
cutting these mortises. Construction
heartwood is air dried, so the center
of a 4" x 4" post may not be entirely
dry. Two of my posts were noticeably
heavier than the other two — a good
clue that they weren’t totally dried.
That doesn’t pose a construction
problem, but it may mean it will take
a little more effort and time squaring
up the mortises as you painstakingly
cut through some slightly wet wood.
You also may have to resharpen your
chisels during the process.
19
WW3681_18-25 4/7/04 2:31 PM Page 20

Trellis 9
Exploded
View
8
8

4 4
5 to create the quarter-circle (see
6 wedge mortises bored, it’s time to
3 9
MATERIAL LIST (Trellis)
1 Horizontal Lattice Strips (18)
2 Vertical Lattice Strips (10)
3 Horizontal Cleats (4)
4 Vertical Cleats (4)
5 Posts (4)
6 Rails (4)
7 Wedges (8)
8 Stretchers (2)
9 Stainless Steel Screws (88)
10 Stainless Steel Screws (88)
6
Before you cut the trellis rails to
3
length, notch the ends and drill the
mortises for the decorative wedges
(see the Half-scale Patterns on the
facing page), simply because it’s
easier and you don’t have to worry
about tearout. The end corners of
1 each rail are notched with a 11 ⁄ 2"
diameter Forstner bit chucked in
2 your drill press. Locate the point
of the bit on the corner of each end
Figure 3 on page 22). Because
5 you’re not cutting a full circle in
your wood, make sure you firmly
clamp the workpiece down so the bit
doesn’t wander.
The wedge mortises are located
slightly into the post mortises so
that the wedges (pieces 7) will fit
tightly into their respective holes.
They are drilled out with a 1/2"
Forstner bit, but you can square the
mortises with chisels once you’ve
cut the tenons.
10 After the rails are notched and the
cut the cheeks on the tenons (see
the Elevation Drawings on page 24).
I set the depth of cut on my radial
arm saw (still set up with the dado
blade) for 3/8". I also clamped a stop
on the saw’s fence that would create
T xW x L 6 1 ⁄ 2" long tenons. It’s a good idea to
7 cut tenons on some test pieces to
3/4" x 3/4" x 30 3 ⁄ 4"
3/4" x 3/4" x 50 3 ⁄ 4" make sure your setup is correct.
3/4" x 3/4" x 30 3 ⁄ 4" Also note that the outer 3" of these
tenons will have to be sanded to
3/4" x 3/4" x 50 3 ⁄ 4"
eliminate the dado blade marks. So
31 ⁄ 2" x 31 ⁄ 2" x 96"
sand your test pieces, too, to ensure
11 ⁄ 2" x 31 ⁄ 2" x 43 3 ⁄ 4"
a tight fit.
1/2" x 1" x 3" After you’ve cut the tenons, and
11 ⁄ 2" x 31 ⁄ 2" x 65" made sure they fit their respective
#8 x 21 ⁄ 2" Flathead post mortises, you can square up
#6 x 11 ⁄ 4" Flathead
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_18-25 4/15/04 10:40 AM Page 21

Half-scale
Patterns
Before you cut the tenons
on the trellis rails, notch
each rail end with a 11/2" Note: We found
Forstner bit. that redwood
lumber doesn’t
always measure
7 a full 3/4" or 11 ⁄ 2"
thick. Before
Wedge cutting your
half-lap joints,
be sure to check
your lumber and
The pattern for the trellis rail
adjust the joint
shown here is also used to
depths and widths
form the shape of the
accordingly.
stretcher, piece 8. Use this
reference line to establish
the end of your stretcher.
8" to end of Stretcher*

Note: Cut all the dadoes in the

beams before you shape the
ends on your band saw.

6
Trellis Rail
Note: The horizontal
cleats (pieces 3) are
fastened to the
outside edges of the
rails first. Then the
vertical cleats
(pieces 4) are
fastened to the
posts. With the
exception of miters
at their ends, these
11 cleats require no
Canopy Beam machining.

Note: One square equals 1/4"

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 21

WW3681_18-25 4/7/04 2:34 PM Page 22
the mortises for the decorative
wedges with 1/2" and 1" chisels.
The decorative wedges are cut from
scrap redwood. Taper the wedges on
your disc sander (see Half-scale
Patterns, previous page).
The final shaping of the trellis
rails as well as the shaping of the
stretchers (pieces 8) is done on the
band saw. Use the Half-scale Patterns
to create a template (I made mine
from some scrap 1/2" plywood).
Trace the outline of the template
onto the rails and stretchers and
cut them out on the band saw. An
oscillating spindle sander does a great
job of easily removing the band saw
marks. I also rounded over all the
edges with 100-grit sandpaper.
Making Stretchers and Bridle Joints
The stretchers are attached to the
posts with full lap joints. In other
words, dadoes must be cut in the
posts (see the Rail and Post Joint
Detail, at right, and the Elevation
Drawings on page 24 for the dado
sizes and locations), but none are
needed in the stretchers.
6 3
Figure 3: Before you cut the tenons on the
trellis rails, notch each rail end with a 11 ⁄ 2"
Forstner bit chucked in your drill press.
22
11/2"
27°
2"
Rail and Post
Joint Detail
I used the same dado setup in my
radial arm saw, this time adjusting
the depth of cut for a 11 ⁄ 2" deep dado.
I cut the dadoes in two matching
posts at the same time. I know I’ve
said this before, but be extremely
careful during this process. Clamp
your workpieces securely to the
saw’s table and operate the saw with
both hands. Watch out for knots in
the wood. A dado set in a radial arm
saw tends to grab and climb a knot if
the saw is pulled forward too fast.
This could easily stall the saw, over-
load the motor, or even cause an
injury if you lose control of the dado.
I thought about using the radial
arm saw to cut the bridle joints in
the tops of the posts (see the Rail 11/2"
and Post Joint Detail, this page),
but it seemed like an awfully
cumbersome setup. You could use
a circular saw and slowly nibble
away at each dado, but I think the
easiest and safest method is to 31/2"
chop out the dadoes with a Forstner
bit and chisels (see Figure 4). After
the open bridle mortises are cut, use
a miter saw to put a 27° chamfer on
the top of each post, as shown on the
Rail and Post Joint Detail.
5
/ 4"
31/2" 1
/2"
3/4"
1"
9
2 /16"
11/4"
3
/8"
31/2"
11/2" Dia.
WW3681_18-25 4/7/04 2:34 PM Page 23
Figure 4: Cut the mortises in the top of each
post by hogging out most of the waste with a
Forstner bit and squaring up with a sharp chisel.
Assembling the Trellises
With all the joints on the posts cut,
it’s time to start assembling each
trellis. You’ll need plenty of room
for this process, either on the floor
or on a large bench. Begin by mak-
ing sure the rails are oriented with
the notched sides facing away from
the trellis. Apply Titebond ® II
weatherproof glue to each rail’s
tenon and use the decorative wedges
to hold the rails in place. Drill 9/64"
pilot holes and 3/8" counterbores
before driving the longer stainless
steel screws (pieces 9) through the
posts and rails to lock these parts.
The cleats that were ripped earlier
can now be fastened to the posts and
rails. I didn’t bother to measure the
cleats; instead, I marked each one
individually and cut the 45° miters
with my miter saw. The horizontal
cleats are fastened to the outside
edges of the rails first (see the
Exploded View, page 20). Then the
vertical cleats are fastened to
the posts so they line up with the
horizontal cleats. Attach these with
the shorter stainless steel screws
(pieces 10), countersunk just
enough to let the heads sit flush with
the surface. The lattice strips are
then screwed (but not glued) to
the cleats, also with the shorter
flathead stainless steel screws.
Make sure you drill pilot holes for
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
every one of these screws to prevent There’s one last shaping step
splitting the lattice strips. The fragile before the canopy can be assembled:
lattice assemblies aren’t glued to Cutting the cur ved shape on
the cleats so they can be replaced the ends of the five beams. Make
if necessary. a wooden template from the Half-
scale Patterns on page 21, and use
Constructing the Canopy
Start the canopy by cutting the
beams, joists and top rails (pieces
11, 12 and 13) to the sizes listed in
the Material List, page 25. Clamp the
five beams together and lay out the
dadoes (see the Elevation Drawings,
page 24) that will hold the top rails.
Gang cut 3/4" deep dadoes on the
radial arm saw, as shown in Figure 5.
Set aside the two beams that will
sit inside the bridle joints on the Figure 5: The radial arm saw allows you to
posts. The other three beams will gang-cut the dadoes in all five beams at one
need half-lap joints on the bottom time. Make sure you clamp the workpieces
edges to accept dadoes cut in the and use two hands to pull the saw carriage.
joists. Clamp these three beams
together, lay out the dadoes as the template to trace the pattern
shown in the Elevation Drawings, onto each beam. Cut out the shape
page 24, and the Inside Beams detail, on the band saw. (Note: I tried using
page 25, and gang cut them on the a jigsaw, thinking the 58" beams
radial arm saw. Follow the same pro- would be too unwieldy to handle
cedure to cut the corresponding on the band saw, but my jigsaw
dadoes on the two joists. created too much tearout on the soft
Figure 6:
Once you have
everything built
and the arbor
posts located in
your favorite
garden or lawn
spot, ask
a couple of
friends to help
you hoist the
canopy into
place on top of
the two trellises.
23
WW3681_18-25 4/15/04 1:23 PM Page 24

Post
(Side View) (Front View)
Trellis Rail 27°
(Top View) 6 61/2"
2"
3
/4"
3
/8" 121/2"
433/4" 11/2"

433/4" 231/4"
31/2"
6 31/2"
11/2"
(Side View)

3 2 NOTE: The top rails (pieces 13) require 3

Cleat no machining.
/4"
Location 5
Detail 6
5
Beam All of the dadoes on
(Side View) the top of the beams
can be gang cut.
58"
8" 8" 3
/4" 41/2"
11/2"
C 503/4"
L
11
Lower half-lap
13/4" joints are
Screw locations are only 19" 11/2" only cut on
required on the two outside beams. the three
inside beams.
Joist (Side View)
137/8" 137/8" 11/2" 31/2"

3
/4"
12
3
1 /4"
60"

Horizontal Lattice Strip

(Side View) 3
/4"
5" 41/4" 1 41/4" 5"
3
/4"
3
/8"
3
30 /4"

Vertical Lattice Strip

(Side View)
3
/4"
5" 41/4" 41/4" 2 3 41/4" 5"
/8"
3
/4"

503/4"

redwood. I got a cleaner cut on glue to the half-laps connecting While the glue is drying, chuck
the band saw. Because redwood is the beams and joists as well as to a 3/8" diameter tapered plug cutter
so lightweight, I didn’t have any the dadoes on the beams that hold into your drill press so you can create
problems maneuvering the beams.) the top rails. Drill pilot holes and enough redwood plugs (pieces 14)
Wrap up this shaping work with counterbores from the top for the to cover all the arbor’s screw holes
a drum sander in your drill press to longer stainless steel screws. The except those connecting the lattice
eliminate the saw marks. joists are anchored to the two outside strips and cleats. Install these plugs
Now you can assemble the canopy. beams with additional screws driven on the canopy top with dabs of
Dry-fit all the pieces to make sure through the sides of the beams (see Titebond II glue and, once the glue
everything goes together properly the Exploded View, next page, for the dries, chisel and sand the plugs flush
and the assembly is square. Apply screw locations). to the workpieces.

24 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_18-25 4/7/04 2:37 PM Page 25

MATERIAL LIST - CANOPY

T xW x L
11 Beams (5) 11 ⁄ 2" x 31 ⁄ 2" x 58"
Canopy 12 Joists (2) 11 ⁄ 2" x 31 ⁄ 2" x 60"
Exploded 13 Top Rails (6) 11 ⁄ 2" x 15⁄ 8" x 75"
View 14 Screw Hole Plugs (88) 3/8" Dia. redwood

12

13

9 14

11

12
14
9

Installing the Arbor

The arbor can be set in concrete
or on concrete pads, but there’s
an easier alternative — metal
anchors that you can find at
home improvement centers.
The installation process is simple:
Mark the precise location of
your arbor’s posts and fit
a foot-long piece of scrap 4 x 4
into each anchor. With a sledge-
hammer, drive the anchor until
the top end is near the ground.
When the tops of all the anchors are
level, replace the scrap stock with
the arbor’s post/trellis assemblies.
Now you’ll need at least one friend
and a couple of stepladders to finish
the assembly. First, place the
stretchers in their respective dadoes
and clamp them to the posts. With
the stepladders placed on solid
ground, have two friends heft the
canopy onto the posts (see Figure 6,
Inside Beams
(Side View)
41/2" 11/2" 8"
3
/4"
11
13/4"
previous page) while you supervise.
(After all, what are friends for?) Now
you can attach the stretchers to the
posts with the longer stainless steel
screws, drilling pilot holes and coun-
terbores as you did for all the other
screws. Then screw the canopy to
the posts as shown on the Exploded
View, above. Complete the assembly
process by installing the rest of the
screw hole plugs and rounding off
all the sharp edges with sandpaper.
11/2" 8"
C
L
19"
Finishing Up
You can apply various finishes to
redwood, including paint, penetrating
oil and marine spar varnish. Or you
can let the redwood age naturally.
I opted for two coats of General
Finishes Outdoor Oil, which contains
UV and mildew prohibitors, using
cloth and a foam brush. Reapply
the finish annually to help retain the
redwood color.

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 25

WW3681_26-31 4/8/04 2:11 PM Page 26

A Gardener's Workstation
Whether you’re a three-season gardening junkie or
a weekend dabbler, this workstation is sure to satisfy.
It features a pull-out potting tray, a removable mixing
tub and loads of shelf and storage space.
By Stan Schmidt

26 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_26-31 4/8/04 2:11 PM
Arrange your benchtop boards
by alternating the growth-ring
patterns. Number the boards
so they stay in sequence and
mark alternate A’s and O’s
along the joint lines for jointing
tight-fitting edges.
T his fine piece of outdoor
furniture says one thing loud
and clear: Style and grace aren’t
always the victims of durability.
This gardener’s workstation features
a removable mixing tub, a hidden
potting tray, lots of room for storing
extra clay pots or even bags of
fertilizer, and room to hang plenty of
gardening utensils. It’s also designed
and built to take whatever you and
Mother Nature can throw at it. Even
if you don’t leave it outdoors, you’ll
want your potting bench to stand up
to humidity and bugs. Virtually all the
wood on ours is white oak, a good
choice for outdoor applications.
White oak’s pores are filled with
tyloses, which gives the wood water-
resistant properties. It also contains
tannic acids, which protect the wood
from insect and fungi attacks. There
are alternatives to white oak, of
course, like cedar, redwood, cypress,
Honduras mahogany, teak or even
pressure treated lumber. (For more
on choosing outdoor woods, see
page 8.)
While tannic acid can be beneficial,
it also can cause problems. Mix tannic
acid, a little humidity and regular
steel screws and you’ve got the
perfect recipe for unsightly stains.
That’s why I opted for exterior-grade
screws, even where they’re covered
with plugs. The outdoor factor also
dictated the use of Titebond® II
weatherproof glue and spar varnish.
Building the Benchtop
Start this project by making the
rather massive benchtop (piece 1).
If this is your first try at gluing
together a large tabletop, save your-
self some headaches by gluing the
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
Page 27
1
2
1
Benchtop
Exploded View
top together in several
narrow assemblies, letting the glue
dry, then gluing and clamping them
5
6
together to make the full panel.
Otherwise, too many wet joints will
make the top difficult to clamp up,
resulting in shifting — and lots of
3
expletives! I made my top from two
pieces of 41 ⁄ 2" wide oak sandwiched
around four pieces of 31 ⁄ 2" stock.
Here’s a technique I frequently
use to achieve flawless butt joints
without worrying if my jointer is set
precisely at 90 degrees. I cut my
stock to rough width and length,
then arrange the boards to alternate
the growth-ring patterns (see the
Exploded View above). Number the
boards so they stay in sequence and
mark alternate A’s (Away from the
fence) and O’s (On the fence) along
the joint lines on the top face. With
each board’s top face away from the
fence, joint the A edges. Then, with
each board’s top face on the fence, Figure 1: After you’ve carefully marked all your
workpieces, cut the lap joints on the bench legs
joint the O edges. This way, if your
with a dado set mounted in your table saw.
A cuts are 89°, you’ll be guaranteed
that your O cuts will be 91° and
you’ll end up with a nice flat top.
3
7
5
Figure 2: The 45° miters on the bottom aprons
are cut on a miter saw. Nibble at the cut to
prevent your saw from flinging small pieces
of oak across the room.
27
WW3681_26-31 4/8/04 2:12 PM Page 28
Figure 3: Cut three sides of the mixing tub hole
with your jigsaw, then screw a holding bracket
to the waste piece so it doesn’t pinch your blade
while you cut the fourth side — or bruise your
big toe when it falls to the floor.
Standard biscuits aren’t made for
exterior applications, so I opted to
join the boards with white oak
splines (pieces 2). I used a dado set
on my table saw to cut the grooves
three inches short of each end and
finished up this step by gluing and
clamping the top.
The most difficult and time-
consuming step in making a large
tabletop is flattening the glued-up
panel. I resolved this hassle a couple of
years ago by investing in a Performax
drum sander capable of surfacing
half of a 44" wide slab in one pass.
This machine is an immense time-
saver. Alternatives include a belt
sander, a hand plane, or simply paying
a cabinet shop to flatten it for you on
their oversized sander. It shouldn’t
cost much if you have the surfacing
done for you. I used my table saw to
rip the panel to width and a circular
saw to cross cut to length.
With the benchtop finished, it’s
time to cut all the other pieces to
width and length according to the
Material List on the next page.
While you’re at it, cut some extra
pieces to use for testing during the
machining stages. Label everything
carefully and remember that there’s
a left-hand and right-hand set of
legs. All the details are presented in
the Pinup Shop Drawings starting on
page 39.
28
Making the Legs and Aprons
Once you’ve double-checked all
your markups, install a sharp dado
set on your table saw and set it at its
maximum width. Since white oak
has a tendency to splinter easily,
I stuck masking tape over every
marked dado to minimize tearout.
After using some extra pieces of
stock to test your settings, cut all the
lap joints on the legs (pieces 3 and 4)
and aprons (pieces 5, 6 and 7), as
shown in Figure 1 on page 27.
Stick with the dado set to cut the
wide notch on the top front apron
(this will later accommodate the
tops of your flowerpots), the notches
on two of the six slats (pieces 8), the
tenon cheeks on the back boards
(pieces 9 and 10) and the notches on
the fronts of the tray runners (pieces
11). Finish up with the dado set by
cutting the grooves in the runners.
Move to your miter saw to shape
the mitered front apron and two side
aprons (see Figure 2) on page 27 as
well as the bevel on the tops of the
rear legs. The miter saw is also the
perfect tool for shaping the straight
edges on the corner brackets
(pieces 12). To make the six corner
brackets stronger, follow the grain
1"
Figure 4: Drill the 1"
deep counterbores in the
tops and bottoms of the
3
aprons with a 3/8" /8" Dia.
countersink.
pattern shown on the Pinup Shop
Drawings.
Next, you’ll need your band saw,
drum sander and router table. Use
your band saw and drum sander to
form the arc on the corner brackets.
Use your router table, equipped with
a 1/2" straight bit, to mill the
stopped groove on the inside faces
of the rear legs. Also on your router
table make the stopped groove on
the inside of the tray front (piece 13)
for housing the potting tray, as
shown on the Pinup Shop Drawings.
Switch to a jigsaw to form the
notches at the rear of the benchtop,
which allow the top to wrap around
the rear legs. Even though the top is
11 ⁄ 2" thick, a good jigsaw equipped
with a sharp blade shouldn’t be
overwhelmed cutting through white
oak. I also used the jigsaw to cut the
hole for the mixing tub (piece 14).
Since you already have considerable
time and money invested in the
white oak top, purchase your tub
(really just a plastic dishwashing
pan) and cut a test hole in scrap
before you tackle the white oak. Aim
for a tight friction fit. The hole in
my top measured 111 ⁄ 8" x 13", but
when I cut my test hole in some
scrap plywood, I discovered that the
tub lip wouldn’t hide square corners.
In order to prevent the cutout
from dropping on your toes, cut
three sides and then attach a scrap
brace (see Figure 3) to the cutout
with a couple screws. The brace
will also prevent the cutout from
pinching your jigsaw blade as you
cut the fourth side.
Now turn to your drill press,
equipped with a circle cutter, to form
the arcs on the top back board and the
tray front. Adjust the speed to 250
rpm and your cutter for a 3" diameter
circle. To eliminate tearout, clamp
your boards down securely, cut
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_26-31 4/8/04 2:14 PM Page 29

17

9 20

Exploded
View

19
10

18
2

3 6 11
11
5
13
23
4

15

24
13

22 3 5
16
7

12
MATERIAL LIST
T xW x L T xW x L
1 Benchtop (1) 11 ⁄ 2" x 22 3 ⁄ 4" x 44" 13 Tray Front (1) 3/4" x 51 ⁄ 2" x 40"
2 Benchtop Splines (5) 1/4" x 3/4" x 38" 14 Mixing Tub (1) Plastic dishpan
3 Front Legs (2) 13 ⁄ 4" x 21 ⁄ 2" x 341⁄2" 15 Potting Tray (1) 3/4" x 153⁄4" x 195 ⁄ 8"
4 Rear Legs (2) 13 ⁄ 4" x 21 ⁄ 2" x 501⁄4" 16 Shelf Stretcher (1) 13 ⁄ 4" x 21 ⁄ 2" x 171 ⁄ 2"
5 Side Aprons (4) 13 ⁄ 4" x 21 ⁄ 2" x 21" 17 Tool Hangers (3) 1/4" x 2" Dowel
6 Front & Rear Aprons (3) 13 ⁄ 4" x 21 ⁄ 2" x 381⁄4" 18 Tray Spacer (1) 3/4" x 21⁄8" x 171 ⁄ 2"
7 Mitered Front Apron (1) 13 ⁄ 4" x 21 ⁄ 2" x 40" 19 Back Board Spacers (8) 1/2" x 1/2" x 1"
8 Shelf Slats (6) 11⁄2" x 3 3 ⁄ 16" x 40" 20 Leg Caps (2) 1/4" x 13 ⁄ 4" x 21 ⁄ 2"
9 Top Back Board (1) 3/4" x 51 ⁄ 2" x 36" 21 Potting Tray Cleat (1) 3/4" x 3/4" x 131 ⁄ 2"
10 Lower Back Boards (3) 3/4" x 2" x 36" 22 Screw Hole Plugs (15) 3/8" Dia. white oak
11 Tray Runners (2) 13⁄4" x 41 ⁄ 8" x 191 ⁄ 4" 23 Exterior-grade Screws (10) #6 x 11⁄4"
12 Corner Brackets (6) 13⁄4" x 31 ⁄ 4" x 31 ⁄ 4" 24 Exterior-grade Screws (73) #8 x 21 ⁄ 2"

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects

WW3681_26-31 4/8/04 2:14 PM Page 30
Cutting Tapers in
Two Easy Steps
21/2"
Cutting the tapers
on the tray front and
the top back board
of the potting bench
is easy with this simple
jig, even though the
tray front is 4" longer
than the top back
48" board. Cut the jig
and spacer from 3/4"
birch plywood, as
shown in the drawing
at left, using table and
jigsaws. Now just
Spacer
Cleat follow the two-step
process shown below.
2"
4"
53/4"
10"
Step 1: With your fence set
at 10", cut one end of the
tray front. Now flip the
workpiece and cut the
other end.
Step 2: Screw the 2"
spacer and the cleat to the
tapering jig and cut one
end of your top back
board. Flip your workpiece
and cut the other end.
30
halfway through and flip them over
to finish the cut. A circle cutter
forms a clean circle requiring little
sanding, but if you don’t have one,
you could use a jigsaw and clean up
with a drum sander.
I also used the circle cutter for the
holes in the potting tray (piece 15).
Again, check your flowerpot sizes
before you cut the holes. I have 4"
and 6" standard clay pots, requiring
37 ⁄ 8" and 51 ⁄ 4" holes, respectively. No
matter what size pots you buy, aim
for a loose friction fit. Arrange them
in a pattern that will allow you to
remove a pot full of soil and fertilizer
easily, even if you’re wearing damp
and dirty gardening gloves.
Accounting for Wood Movement
A unique feature designed into this
potting bench is the way it handles
wood movement. Basically, it consists
of matching 1" deep counterbores
that allow the wide, thick benchtop
to shift with the seasons (see Figure 4
on page 28). An additional benefit of
this design is that it allows you to
use shorter exterior-grade screws
that are only 21 ⁄ 2" long.
Mark the screw hole locations on
the aprons and the shelf stretcher
(piece 16) as indicated on the Pinup
Shop Drawings. With a 9/64" bit in
your drill press and a fence set 7/8"
from center, drill all the way through
the aprons. Now switch to a 3/8"
countersink and set your depth stop
to form a 1" deep counterbore. Drill
the holes on one edge of an apron
and flip your workpiece to drill the
matching holes, using the 9/64"
pilot hole as a guide. Follow the
same procedures on the rest of the
aprons and the stretcher. Finish up
on the drill press by cutting holes for
the tool hangers (pieces 17) at a 5°
angle on the top back board.
Putting the Pieces Together
With all this machining work behind
you, it’s time for some assembly.
Dry-assemble and clamp the legs
and aprons, making sure everything
fits precisely and the full framework
is square. Once you’re satisfied, drill
1/8" pilot holes and 3/8" counter-
bores where they are marked on the
Exploded View, page 29.
Now unclamp the dry assembly
and call a buddy who can supply
a couple of extra hands. Brush on
Titebond® II glue, then reclamp and
screw the pieces together, again
making sure that everything remains
square. Note: For final assembly,
I recommend square-drive screws.
Once you use them, you’ll be sorely
tempted to throw away every slotted
or Phillips screw you ever see. You’ll
need a square drive bit, but these
are worth ever y penny, simply
because square drive screws seldom,
if ever, slip.
Once this assembly dries, glue and
screw the tray spacer (piece 18) in
place and attach the tray runners
(see the Pinup Shop Drawings).
Now tip the bench on its back to
tackle the top and shelf. Clamp the
top in place and use an awl to mark
the locations of the screw holes (see
Figure 5). Remove the top and drill
the 1/8" pilot holes 1" deep, then
reposition the top and screw it in
place. Follow the same procedure
with the shelf slats, but first sand
a roundover on the top edges.
I attached the two notched shelf
slats first, and followed with the
other four slats spaced an equal
distance apart. Slip scrap spacers
in between the shelf slats if this
helps, or tack the boards in place
with hot-melt glue to hold them
while you drive the screws. As long
as you have the bench on its back,
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_26-31 4/8/04 2:15 PM Page 31
Figure 5: With the top firmly clamped to the
aprons, drop the bench on its back and mark
the locations of the pilot holes with an awl.
now is a good time to glue and screw
the corner brackets in place, too.
Return the bench to an upright
position and glue the spacers
(pieces 19) and back boards — but
not the top back board — in place.
Dry-fit the top board just to make
sure the taper you’ve marked on the
board meets the top of the bevels
you’ve already cut on the rear legs.
Making the Top Back Board
and Splitting the Tray Front
The tapering jig that’s described in
the sidebar on the previous page is
different than most jigs because it
will cut the same taper on boards of
different lengths. With this project,
I wanted the arcs and tapers to
match, even though the top back
board is four inches shorter than the
tray front.
Cut the taper on the top back
board using the tapering jig and glue
it in place. The tool hangers are
glued in place along with the leg
caps (pieces 20), which protect
the end grain of the rear legs from
moisture and cover the grooves cut
for the back board tenons.
Cut the tray front in half. Screw —
but don’t glue — the left half to the
potting tray, using the tray cleat
(piece 21) and 11 ⁄ 4" exterior-grade
screws. I didn’t glue the plywood
tray in place so I could easily replace
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
20
9
4
19
10
it when needed in a couple years.
Slide this half into the tray runners
and then glue and screw the right 10
half to the front apron from behind,
making sure it lines up with the left
half covering the potting tray.
10
Finishing Up
I cut my own 3/8" diameter screw
hole plugs (pieces 22) from white 1
oak using a tapered plug cutter (see
5
Figure 6). Glue the plugs in the 6
screw holes on the front and side
surfaces and use a sharp chisel to
pare them even with the surrounding
wood.
Gardener’s
Workstation
(Front view)
Figure 6: You can cut your
own screw hole plugs with
a 3/8" plug cutter in your
drill press. Cut the plugs
loose by resawing to 3/8"
on your band saw.
I sanded with 80-, 120- and 180-grit
sandpaper before applying two
coats of McCloskey’s Satin Spar 8
Marine Varnish, sanding lightly with
180-grit paper between coats. 7
Once the varnish dries, your
workstation will be ready for many
seasons of green thumbing to come. 12
When the varnish takes a hazy cast,
just sand lightly and recoat.
31
WW3681_32-36 4/9/04 12:22 PM Page 32

Portable Outdoor Chairs

By Rick White

Fun to make, comfortable to sit in and surprisingly lightweight,

these outdoor chairs will be a welcome addition to your backyard.
Made from white oak, they’ll provide years of service.

32 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_32-36 4/9/04 12:24 PM Page 33

W hether you’re sitting around

a warm fire after a day in
the boat, cooling your heels at camp
after chasing upland game, or just
leaning back and soaking up a couple
of cold ones after you mow the lawn,
it’s nice to have a comfortable place
to take a load off. These slide-
together outdoor chairs are not
a new idea; in fact, the inspiration for
this updated white oak version was
rolled out 20 years ago in the
May/June 1984 issue of the Journal.
I did spruce up the design a bit
(with some help from my cohorts
here at Woodworker’s Journal) by
making them more compact when
they are nested together for storage.
We also added a few strategically
placed cleats, to eliminate the
chance of racking.
I chose white oak for building
these chairs because it’s so durable
and because these chairs really don’t
eat up a lot of material — there are
only about 12 board feet in each one.
I raided my scrap bin for some of it.
At a little over $3 a board foot, these
chairs come in at a very reasonable
price. Spanish cedar or cypress
would also work well.
With your perfectly-
sized templates
complete, transfer
the shapes onto the
seat and backrest
stock. Then band saw
the pieces to shape,
keeping just outside
the pencil lines.
Getting Started: A Pair of Templates
I wanted to make a few of these
chairs, and the thought of making all
the cur ved side pieces one at
a time was out of the question.
Instead, I constructed a couple of
perfectly-sized templates (see the
Seat and Backrest Sides Drawing
on page 34) and traced around them
to lay out a series of paired seat
and backrest sides (pieces 1 and 2)
on my hardwood stock. Then
I carefully cut these pieces to shape
on the band saw (see photo above),
staying just a hair outside of the
pencil line. I used double-sided
carpet tape to attach the templates to
the stock for template routing and
added three small brads — just
for insurance. With a 1/2" flush-
trimming, bearing-guided router bit
mounted in my router table, I was

Cleaning up your edges on

a spindle sander takes just
a few minutes. One of the nice
things about template routing
is that it leaves just a few
machining marks that are
a snap to remove.

33
WW3681_32-36 4/9/04 12:28 PM Page 34

MATERIAL LIST
T xW x L
1 Seat Sides* (2) 3/4" x 61 ⁄ 2" x 41"
2 Backrest Sides* (2) 3/4" x 61 ⁄ 2" x 44"
3 Seat Slats (8) 1/2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 17 3 ⁄ 8"
4 Back Slats (7) 1/2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 1815 ⁄ 16"
Exploded View 5 Seat Cleat (1) 3/4" x 2" x 17 3 ⁄ 8"
4 6 Backrest Cleats (2) 3/4" x 2" x 1815 ⁄ 16"
*Length and width are slightly oversized.

Seat Side 7
(Slat and Cleat Locations) /8" 11/2"

3"

2
7
/8"
2

1
2

5 3

1
6

Chamfer
Detail
1
(End View) /4"

1
/2"
1
/4"
3
17 /4" 113/4" 6

Backrest
Side
(Slat and Cleat
Locations)

Seat and Backrest Sides One square equals 1"

34 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_32-36 4/9/04 12:30 PM Page 35

Guide to Template Routing

As contributing editor Mike McGlynn once said, “Template routing is a great
way to ensure multiple pieces are identically shaped. It’s also a great way
to destroy parts and injure yourself if you are not careful.”
Here are four rules you should always follow:
1. Leave a bare 1/16" of stock to mill off.
2. Keep your hands well away from the cutter.
3. Attach your template firmly to the stock.
ready to rout. (For tips on template
4. Be keenly aware of the bit’s rotation before you begin trimming.
routing, see the sidebar at right.)
One final caution: Template routing at each end of a piece (across the end
The only problem I had with this grain) must be done slowly and with the utmost care. Rick ruined one of his
whole project was when I first side pieces before he got the hang of this aspect of the task. We suggest you
attempted to trim a rounded end of make a test run on scrap before you move to the real thing.
a seat side. With my template firmly
in place, I started to trim across the
grain at the end of the part. In the
blink of an eye the bit caught and
shattered the stock. It was like the
wood exploded! My second and
third attempts (on scrap wood)
ended in the same dramatic fashion.
After a little more experimenting, I
came up with a successful technique
for this task. The key is to band saw
your stock, particularly at the ends, Step 1: Begin the template routing sequence by Step 2: Attach the template to the stock with
using your template to trace the shape of the double-sided carpet tape. The author also used
so that you leave just the barest bit
piece onto the hardwood stock. Step to the three small brads driven through the template
to be trimmed away by the flush-trim band saw and cut out the piece, staying just to ensure that they were firmly secured to the
cutter. Equally important, go slow outside the layout line. hardwood.
and hang on tight! If your bit creates
a bit of a burn on the ends, don’t
worry, it sands off easily. I sanded
the edges on a oscillating spindle Step 3: Great care
must be used when
sander. Go ahead and make all the routing around the ends
shaped parts at one time. of a template. The end
grain is susceptible to
Moving to the Seat and Back Slats fracturing (as shown in
The seat and back slats (pieces 3 the illustration below)
and rushing a cut can
and 4) have the same thickness and ruin your piece.
width, but differ in length. Rip
a sufficient quantity of slat stock and
then cut them to their appropriate
lengths. Again, if like me you are
making more than one chair, set up Router Bits and End Grain: A Deadly Combo
and cut them in groups. (Maybe
A flush-trimming, bearing-guided router bit follows the shape of the
even make one or two extra in case
template exactly. But using such a bit to cut across end grain can
of a machining error ... not that I’ve lead to big trouble. Limiting the depth of the cut by first trimming
ever had that sort of problem!) close to the layout line (thus reducing the
Next, I drilled counterbored holes penetration of the cutter’s blade) will
centered at each end of the slats greatly reduce your chance
(one setup works for both types of of splitting the wood.
slats). Later these holes will be
plugged to hide the screws.
As long as you are ripping and
drilling, go ahead and make the seat
Split wood
and backrest cleats (pieces 5 and 6)
from 3/4" stock. The cleats are

Template not
shown for clarity.
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 35
WW3681_32-36 4/9/04 12:32 PM Page 36
wider than the slats and have two
screws in each end. They keeps the
backrest and seat assemblies from
racking, although their main func-
tion is locking the chair securely in
each of the various seat positions
possible with this design. Cut them
to size and bore the screw holes.
Now grab the slats and cleats and
move over to your router table.
Chuck a chamfering bit in the router
and get busy easing the edges of the
combined slats and cleats. (And if
you happen to be unlucky and
machine the wrong side of one of the
slats, don’t worry; remember you
made extra ... I wish I had.)
Putting it All Together
If you have two drill/drivers, get
them ready. First make a 7/8" x 7/8"
x 20" spacer. Start attaching the seat
and back slats as shown in the
Elevation Drawings on page 34, and
use the spacer to locate each
successive slat. Drill a pilot hole with
the first drill and then drive the
screw home with the second. When
you place the final seat slat, use the
spacer again to locate the seat cleat.
Make sure you square up the
assembly before you drive in these
screws. Simple as pie.
When you’ve placed the
last back slat, you need
to go to the Elevation
Drawings once more to
locate positions for the two
backrest cleats.
Plug the screw holes with
white oak dowels (you
should use a water-resistant
glue to make sure they stay
put), and after the glue
cures, sand each
of the chair
assemblies
thoroughly. You
are almost ready
to sit back and make yourself
comfortable.
exterior grade polyurethane or spar
Finishing and Upkeep varnish would also look great on
I considered a few finishing options these white oak beauties, but it
for my chairs but settled on an easily would scratch and chip with the use
applied outdoor oil finish. I think an I had in mind for them. I like the oil
for many reasons: it’s easy to get into
nooks and crannies formed by the
slats and cleats, it looks great and,
most important to me, it’s simple
to touch up and renew. You will need
to reapply the finish on any piece
of outdoor furniture, and oil is the
easiest way to go, in my opinion.
A good cleaning and then a quick
rubdown with a coat of oil, and your
chairs will be ready for another
season of outdoor adventures.
Whether that would include a trip
to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area
or setting them up in your outdoor
Brew Area, is entirely up to you.
Drilling the
counterbored screw
holes in both the slats
and the cleats gets
you ready for the final
assembly step.
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_37 4/19/04 9:57 AM Page 37

Like What
You See Here?
Subscribe today!

Hoopback
Garden Bench

High Chair

Ultimate
Angle
Jig

Woodworker’s Journal
July/August 2004 has even
more great projects to keep you
busy: a Cypress garden bench,
an intarsia high
chair and an
angle jig for your
shop — plus
articles on air
nailers, benchtop
tools and more. To start receiving
the Journal at a great price, call
800-765-4119 (source - 4G99) or visit
woodworkersjournal.com today!

The voice of
the woodworking
community

(Circle No. 19 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 37

WW3681_38,47 4/9/04 12:49 PM Page 38
Patio Furniture Spruce-up
“If you own a pressure washer, now’s the time to haul it out and
prove to your spouse that you really did need to buy it.”
I n spring, a young man’s fancy
turns to thoughts of …
refurbishing the deck and patio
furniture. That may not be so poetic,
but it’s a darned good idea to redo
your deck every year, and the patio
furniture every few years. Yearly
upkeep is simple, and involves only
cleaning and recoating, but let it go
too long and the deck becomes an
unsightly mess that is a real chore to
restore. This column will take you
through the process of cleaning the
wood, then sealing both the deck
and the furniture on it.
Cleaning and Washing
The first step for the deck, its railings
and stairs, and even the furniture
that sat out on it all winter, is to clean
it. After a year of exposure, there will
be dirt to be removed and, if you live
in a wet climate, you might also have
38
By Michael Dresdner
mildew. The bane of exterior wood,
mildew is a slippery black or green
fungus that looks like a tenacious
layer of ground-in dirt. You can buy
special mildew removers at the
home store, or mix your own by
adding a quart of fresh laundry
bleach (like Clorox®) to a gallon
of water.
Killing Mildew
Bleach can kill plants, so before you
start, wet down the lawn and shrub-
bery below or around the deck with
a mist of clean water. If possible,
cover them with thin plastic film
while you work, but remove it as
soon as you finish the cleaning
process. Plants will wilt quickly
under plastic in the hot sun. When
you remove the film, mist the plants
again. Wash off any surface dirt or
leaves with the garden hose nozzle
set to full throttle. Flood the bleach
mixture onto the still wet wood with
a synthetic fiber mop, floor pad, or
brush. (Bleach breaks down natural
fibers.) It will kill mildew and
remove its distinctive color almost
immediately, so there is no waiting
time. Afterwards, rinse the wood
well with the hose.
Removing the Dirt
Once the mildew is gone, what’s left
is good old-fashioned dirt. I like to
use TSP or the more environmentally
friendly TSP substitute to remove
the grime, but you can find special
deck cleaning compounds in the
deck coating aisle at your building
supply store. All are safe for the
existing finish, but strong enough to
do the job. Mix according to the
continues on page 47 ...
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_38,47 4/9/04 12:50 PM Page 47
... continued from page 38
directions on the label and apply
with a scrub brush and some elbow
grease. Do a section at a time, and
rinse with the hose to make sure
you’ve gotten all the dirt off.
If you own a pressure washer, now’s
the time to haul it out and prove to
your spouse that you really did need
to buy it. Set it on low power and
wide fan; a strong pinpoint blast
from this tool can peel back a layer
of wood lickety-split. Even without
cleaner added, a pressure washer
can make short work of surface dirt.
However, most of these rigs have
either a hose or compartment that
can add concentrated cleaner to the
water stream for a more thorough
scrubbing. You’ll find compatible
deck and siding cleaners in the
pressure washer aisle of your local
home store.
Taking Away the Gray
Sometimes it seems the only thing
turning gray faster than your hair is
your deck. That’s an indication that
that area is unsealed, because only
raw wood goes gray. Fortunately,
you can easily reverse it without
damaging the finish on adjacent,
ungrayed areas. Buy special gray
removing concentrate or a container
of oxalic acid and mix it according to
the directions on the label. Wear a
dust mask and goggles when mixing
oxalic acid powder as it is a toxic
irritant to mucous membranes. Flood
the mixture on the entire surface,
grayed or not. Leave it alone until it
dries, then hose it down thoroughly
to remove any acid residue.
Stripping Old Finish
Decks that are recoated regularly
may never need to be stripped. But if
for whatever reason you decide to
remove the old finish and start
fresh, be aware that you are in for
a tough task. Special deck strippers
sold in the deck coatings aisle will
do the job. Wear gloves, old clothes,
and rubber boots. With a synthetic
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
A bleach-and-
water mixture
is all you need
to kill mildew
and remove its
distinctive
color.
long-handled scrub brush, wet a small
area at a time; no more than 10
square feet. Reapply if you must, but
keep the stripper wet for at least 15
minutes, or until the finish softens,
then scrub to loosen it. Rinse away
the dissolved finish and move to a new
area. Be careful, though; this stuff
gets VERY slippery. You might want
to duct tape sections of old 40 grit
sanding belts to the soles of your
boots for traction.
Applying the Sealer or Stain
As always, preparation is the hard
part. Now comes the easy part. The
only challenge is to apply the coating
as uniformly as you can. Choose a
day when the weather is going to
cooperate with you. A calm, warm,
dry, slightly overcast day is best.
Strong winds can blow dirt into the
finish, and few things are as annoying
as watching an uncured deck coating
get destroyed by rain. Cold weather
will slow the dry time, and intense hot
sun can make the finish dry faster
than you can smooth it out. If the deck
is in direct sunlight, try working in
the early morning or evening when
the sun is low in the sky.
Start with the railings and peripheral
areas, and leave the deck itself for
last. A brush, spray gun or even
a garden sprayer will work for railings
and for patio furniture, but my
favorite tool is a painter’s mitt. It
looks like a sheepskin mitten and
slips right over your hand. Dip it into
the coating, grab the post or rail and
run your hand over it. Make sure
you wear a vinyl or latex glove
underneath. The mitt is cloth and
the coating goes right through it.
For the deck itself, you can use
a brush, roller, or spray gun, but
most home and paint stores sell long
handled 18" paint pads specifically
designed for deck coatings. Some
come with a cheap plastic pan to load
the pad from. For two to three dollars,
I would upgrade to a better quality
narrow pan that will not crack or tip
over so easily. While you are there,
pick up a smaller, standard paint pad.
Stir the coating well and pour it
into the pan. Do the perimeter near
the house or railings and coat the
first 4" or so in from the edge with
the small paint pad. That will let you
get into corners and small spots
without slopping finish around. For
the main area of the deck, switch to
the large pad and apply the finish
as evenly as possible, blending into
the already coated perimeter. Keep
it fairly thin. You can always apply
a second coat in a day or two if you
need it, but put it on too thick and
it will stay tacky for a long time.
One final word of caution: don’t
paint yourself into a corner. Plan
your coating pattern in advance so
that you end up by a door to the
house or a break in the railing. Or at
the very least, carry a cell phone.
That way, when you call for help,
your family can come and laugh at
you and snap photos.
47
Pinup Shop Drawings Gardener's Workstation

Rear Leg
(Front view) (Side view)
Note: Make a 1
/2"
right-hand set of
5
legs and a left-hand /8"
set of legs. Shown
here is the left-
hand version. 33/8"
Corner
14"
Bracket
Full Size

12 Front Leg
(Front view) (Side view)

21/2" 21/2"

37/16"

4 4
3 3

32" 32"

21/2" 13/4"

7 7
15/8" /8" 15/8" /8"
21/2" 21/2"

6" 6"
 Front & Rear Aprons
(Top view) 6 15/8"
20
13/4" 7
/8"
1
3
/4" /2"
(Front view) 6
9
3
/4" 4
11/2" 21/2"
19
33/8" 14"
Mitered Front Apron 10
7 21/2"
(Top view)
13/4" 7
/8"
45° 10
3
/4" 7 1
1 /4"
3
/4"
21/2" 10
3
Tray Front (Front view) /4"
1
21/2" 13
15 3
37/16" /4" 5
6
18
21 11
11/2" R.
Tray Runner
(Top view) 11 5
21/2"

7
(Front view) /8"
13/4"
11 11 7
/8"

(End view)
Upper Side Apron 5 Tray Runner &
(Top view) 15/8"
Spacer Assembly
7
/8" (Front view)

(Front view) 5 Gardener’s

Workstation
3 (Front view)
/4"
Lower Mitered Side Apron 11/4"
(Top view) 8
5 13/4" 13/4"
7
/8"
45° 8
(Front view) 5
7
3
/4"
12
Stretcher 8 11/4"
(Top view)

16
Pinup Shop Drawings Picnic Table

Dry Bending Jig

Use your circle routing jig to

make identical top and bottom
jig pieces (233⁄4" radius) from
1/4" hardboard. Drill holes large
enough to hold the ends of your 101/2"
clamps. The double hole is
where you will start and stop
(double clamp) the 1/4" lamina-
tions which make up the apron.

Bending Jig
1/4" hardboard (Section View)

3" Spacer
cleat Clamp hole

1/4" hardboard

4" Support cleat

5
/8"
5
1 /8"
 Top rim (piece 8)
Outside radius 265⁄8"
Storyboard Layout Inside radius 23"
Bottom rim (piece 9)
Outside radius 265⁄8" Apron (piece 1)
Inside radius 22" Outside radius 241⁄2"
Inside radius 233⁄4"

Rim rabbet
Outside radius 23"
Inside radius 22"

Beam
Cap

11 Small
Triangle

9
Beam
Cap Cleat
8"
Beam 15/8"
Spoke

37/8"
Large
Triangle

Leg Laminations

Slats

Spoke

13

Scribe this arc from

the circular rim.

51/2" 221/2"
241/2"
255/8"

Locating the Triangles

Once the circles are drawn, lay out 7"
the two triangles at the center using 141/8"
the measurements at right. With these
key components established, all the
other pieces can be laid out.

3
/4"

3
3
/4" /4"
3
/4"
 Full Size Patterns
Birdhouse

Fly Rafters

2 Rout 1/2" wide x

1/4" deep grooves.

1
Endwalls
 Lay out the endwalls on oversized Drill 1-1/2" diameter
panels, then rout the grooves. holes to help shape
After the routing is complete, drill birdhouse endwalls.
and band saw the endwalls to shape.

Use a chisel to clean

out the corners after
routing the grooves.

3
Gable Accents
Pinup Shop Drawings Portable Folding Bench

16
Front Leg
2-step hole for
pivot hinge

Full Size Patterns

1
Seat Support
 Backrest Top Rail
To draw the profile on the (Front View)
backrest top rail (piece 12),
clamp a strip of hardboard
51/2" Screw
at each end, then flex the 12 41/4"
locations 3"
strip in the middle to create 1"
a nice even curve.
13 Seat Slat Locations
(Top View) 4
Middle Seat
Slat Detail 1

1
4
/8"

1"

1"

Cap the screws with The seat support is flush

hardwood plugs or with the front slat.
buttons.
Back Legset Subassembly
Pivot hinge (Back View)
location
8

45° Short
Round over these screws
areas with a 1/8" (pieces 5)
7
radius roundover bit. 10
10

9
Use a weather resistant adhesive
like Gorilla Glue or Titebond II
when gluing up this subassembly.
Pinup Shop Drawings Croquet Set

Center
Column

Back Leg
(Full-size Mortise Detail)

1"

3
/8"

1"
12

13/16"

10

11 12
32

22

12
52

42

81
02

91

Wheel
31

21
51 5

11
9

15
Mallet
Handle
11 12
 1"

3
/8"

Note: edging 1"

12
detail for cart
top is repeated
(upside down)
for cart bottom.
Hole for handle
(Piece 4)
13/16"

1"

Rack and Top

(Full-size Side View) 3
1 /8"
3
1"
11 12 12

Note: Make sure the mallet

head holders on pieces 3
are lined up precisely
13/16"with
the holes you drilled in the
cart top and bottom for the
mallet handles.

Mallet
Head
Front & Back Leg
11 12
(Full-size Tenon Detail)

11 12
16

Front & Back Leg

(Full-size Groove Detail)

Mallet
Handle

11 12
WW3681_48-55 4/15/04 12:12 PM Page 48

Spanish Cedar
Picnic Table
Surprisingly pleasing to the eye, Spanish cedar grows just about
everywhere in South and Central America. While it’s not a true
cedar (in fact, it’s a hardwood), it does have its own distinctive
fragrance, durability and easy working characteristics.
By John English

L ong ago, I learned the

importance of working to
a storyboard when making circular
shaped projects. The idea is to lay out
the elements of your project on a piece
of sheet stock, which then serves
as your workbench. I recommend
using a storyboard on this project.
Get started by shaping a piece of
particleboard to accommodate a 531 ⁄ 4"
diameter circle, which is the size of
your tabletop. Follow the Storyboard
Layout in the Pinup Shop Drawings,
starting on page 39, and mark pencil
lines where all the elements of the
tabletop will lie. You can draw the
circles with a simple homemade
compass made by driving a 4d finish
nail into one end of a stick and
attaching a pencil to the other end
with a small C-clamp.
Dry Bending the Apron
The apron is the heart of this table and
the element to which almost all other
parts are attached. By building it first,
you deal with the most challenging

48 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_48-55 4/9/04 1:41 PM Page 49
Tabletop
Layout
task up front and determine all the
other measurements, too.
Dr y bending, for large radius
curves, is one of the oldest ways of
working wood into complex, stable
shapes. It’s also the simplest tech-
nique used to bend wood into
a permanent shape, requiring little
more than a form, some glue and
a few bar clamps. Spanish cedar
bends well. I used three laminations
of 1/4" cedar (pieces 1) to build up
the apron, but first, I built the form.
Building the Form
The apron’s bending form is a pair
of 1/4" thick hardboard circles
separated by scrap wood cleats.
After crosscutting the sheet of
hardboard at 48", temporarily fasten
the two halves together (face to
face) with two-sided tape. Locate the
center of the top piece, then use
a circle cutting jig attached to your
router (see Figure 1) to cut both
471 ⁄ 4" diameter circles at the same
time. I made my jig from scrap, but
you can buy circle cutters for
routing as well. A 1/4" straight bit
will do the job in two passes.
Cut a length of 3/4" x 3" scrap into
8" long spacer cleats, then attach
them between the circles with finish
nails (see Figure 2). Locate them as
shown in the Dry Bending Jig Drawing
on the Pinup Shop Drawings. Use
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
Apron Laminated leg
Step-down
and built-up
circular rim
The tabletop slats are
fitted individually. Start at
the center of the space
and work your way out
in both directions.
Use the Pinup Shop Drawings
on page 39 to create your
own storyboard with all the
table components.
a spare cleat to guide you when
drilling clamp holes in the top circle.
I used a hole saw large enough for
the bar clamp heads. Size your own
bit according to the diameter of your
clamp heads, and drill two of the
holes close to each other: this allows
you to clamp the beginning and end
of the lamination tightly. Figure 1: Use a circle-cutting jig attached
Turn the assembly over to screw 4" to your router to cut the hardboard top and
lengths of 1" x 1" stock to the bottom bottom of the apron form at the same time.
circle, one at each cleat location (see
Figure 3). These will support the
bottom edges of the laminations as
you build them up. Apply masking
tape to their top edges to prevent the
cleats and apron laminations from
bonding together during the glue-up
stage. Now you’re ready to glue up
the apron, as described in the sidebar
on the bottom of page 50.
Figure 2: Using an extra spacer cleat as
a guide, drill large clamp holes into the form
Building Up the Legs to anchor your bar clamps during glue-up.
To get nice, thick legs that wouldn’t
warp outdoors, I decided to laminate
five layers of stock for each one. This
process also allowed me to create
mortise-and-tenon joints without
a lot of drilling, fitting and chopping.
I simply cut a notch in the middle
lamination of each leg to serve as
a mortise when the layers were
glued together.
The first step in building the legs is Figure 3: Flip the form over and screw
to cut 15 laminations (pieces 2) to 4" lengths of scrap to its bottom. They will
size on the band saw. Their scaled support the apron laminations during glue-up.
49
WW3681_48-55 4/15/04 12:10 PM Page 50

MATERIAL LIST (BASE)

T xW x L
1 Apron Laminations (3) 1/4" x 31⁄2" x 1561⁄2"
2 Leg Laminations (15) 3/4" x 65⁄8" x 281⁄4"
3 Leg Stretchers (3) 3/4" x 6" x 26"
4 Leg Beams (3) 3/4" x 31⁄2" x 195⁄8"
5 Large Triangle Sides (3) 3/4" x 6" x 131⁄4"
6 Large Triangle Cleats (6) 3/4" x 3/4" x 6"
7 Large Triangle Cap (1) 3/4" x 141⁄8" (Each side)

Base
7
Exploded View
5 5

4
4
6
2 3
6
3

Triangle Box
(Top View)
2
4 2

6
Center

30°
5

7
/8" 131/4"

Making a Solid Circle From Three Pieces

Dry bending this laminated apron is
easier than it looks. For many outdoor
uses, the author recommends using
waterproof polyurethane glue spread
liberally on all relevant surfaces. If the
stock is especially dry, dampen the
surfaces first, according to the
manufacturer’s instructions. Sight
along the lamination stock to see if it
has a natural bend in either direction, To evenly spread the clamping pressure across Start and finish the final lamination at the spot
and, take advantage of this tendency, the entire width of each lamination, the author where you drilled two holes side-by-side: this
if it does when bending it to shape. used scraps of pine hot-melt glued to the clamp gives you the option of using two clamps to
faces to serve as clamping cauls. finish the operation.

50 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_48-55 4/9/04 2:16 PM Page 51
profile can be found in the Drawings
on page 54. Notch three of the
laminations at the locations shown
in the Drawings, then trim the tops
of these same three as indicated.
Glue and clamp three sets of
five laminations together to create
the legs (making sure the middle
lamination in each leg is the
notched one). After the glue dries,
drum sand the contoured edges,
then belt sand the flat surfaces.
Chamfer the edges of the legs with
a bearing-guided chamfering bit
chucked in your router.
Forming the Curved Stretchers
The strongest geometrical form is
a triangle, and I took advantage of
that fact to lock the legs in position.
Three stretchers (pieces 3) extend
from the leg mortises to the center
of the table. In keeping with the
round theme, their profiles are
curved (see page 54). To ensure all
three are identical, make a template
for the stretchers (see Figure 4).
Trace the profile onto a piece of
scrap particleboard, cut it to shape
Glue the first two laminations together,
offsetting their ends by six inches. Be
sure the outer lamination starts and
stops where you drilled the two clamp
holes side-by-side. Set the clamped-up
apron and form aside to cure for at least
two days. You want the wood to acquire
a “memory” for its new shape before
you release the clamps. Then apply the
final lamination, offsetting and starting
and stopping as described above.
Leave this one clamped in
place for a couple
of days as well.
on the band saw, then clean up the
edges with a drum sander.
Use glue and clamps to secure
leg beams (pieces 4) into the open
mor tises where the middle leg
laminations were trimmed short.
After the glue dries, place one of the
legs on your tabletop layout and dry Figure 4: The stretchers of this table are
fit the stretcher template to it. curved to reflect the circular top. Create
a template to ensure each piece is identical.
Make any needed adjustments to
the template, then use it to lay out
the stretchers. Cut all three to size, they are a little too long, you can
then sand away the saw marks. trim them to length. If they’re too
short, simply adjust the size of the
Assembling the Legset triangle on the layout (note any
The assembly process is where changes on your version of the
making that full-size particleboard Material List). Just make sure all
layout really pays off. Dry fit the three beams are the same length so
stretchers and then stand all three the triangle stays centered.
legs in position on the layout. The Set your table saw blade to 30°
beams and stretchers should all and use the miter gauge to trim the
meet at the lines you drew for the triangle sides (pieces 5) to length, as
center triangle (see photo below). If shown in the Elevation Drawing on
When building complex shapes, nothing is as helpful as a storyboard
or a full-size layout drawing to build from. Here the author test fits
his components to the storyboard. Any variations or potential
problems are easy to spot as he builds each piece in sequence.
Remember, a minute of planning is worth an hour of power.
51
WW3681_48-55 4/15/04 12:08 PM Page 52

12 9

Tabletop
Exploded
View

Rim Detail
8 (Side View)
13

11 13 8

11
15
4 9
15 14
1
9
10 2

MATERIAL LIST (Top)

T xW x L
8 Top Rim Segments (6) 3/4" x 8" x 27"
9 Bottom Rim Segments (6) 3/4" x 8" x 27"
page 50. Glue and finish nail the 10 Rim Glue Blocks (6) Trim to fit
triangle sides together (I also added
11 Beam Caps (3) 3/4" x 8" x 181⁄2"
a single screw in each, to keep the
12 Small Triangle (1) 3/4" x 6" (Each side)
joint tight while the glue dried).
13 Spokes (3) 3/4" x 51⁄2" x 211⁄4"
Set the triangle in place on the
layout. Apply glue to the ends of the 14 Spoke Screws (18) 11⁄4" x #6, Stainless
stretchers and beams, then secure 15 Tabletop Slats (1) 3/4" x 31⁄2" x 440"
them to the triangle with three pairs 16 Lazy Susan Tray (1) 3/4" x 181⁄4" Dia.
of cleats (pieces 6), as shown in 17 Lazy Susan Mechanism (1) 175⁄16" Dia.
Figure 5. Glue and nail the cleats
in place, then use glue and four 8d
galvanized finish nails to attach each
leg to the apron. Set the nail heads
and fill them with a waterproof filler: Making the Circular Rim
I mixed Titebond® II weatherproof The top edge of the tabletop is
glue and some fine Spanish cedar a continuous circular rim, built with
sanding dust to make my own filler. two layers of 3/4" thick stock. Set
Follow up by driving two screws your saw’s miter gauge to 30°, then
through each triangle side into the use your full-size stor yboard to
beams and stretchers. guide you when mitering the top
Edge-glue some stock to create and bottom rim segments (pieces 8
a large enough blank for the cap on and 9) to length.
the legset triangle (piece 7). Set the Dry fit one layer at a time to the
dried blank on top of the triangle Figure 5: Strong and simple, cleats are used layout and temporarily secure it in
and mark its outline, then band saw to capture the curved stretcher and the leg place with two-sided tape or hot melt
it to shape. Set it aside for now. beams and secure them to the center triangle. glue. Use a circle-cutting router jig to

52 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_48-55 4/14/04 4:31 PM Page 53
Figure 6: Form the circular rim from mitered
segments of 3/4" stock. The storyboard
temporarily holds (tack glued) the segments
together as you rout both radii of the rim.
trim both the inside and outside edges
to shape in several passes. You’ll need
to secure a piece of 3/4" thick scrap
to the center of your storyboard
template to complete this operation,
or your jig won’t be level with the
surface (see Figure 6). Save the cut-
offs — you’ll use them later.
When both layers are cut to size,
tape some clear poly to the storyboard
(I used 4mm vapor barrier left over
from another job). This is done to
prevent the rim from bonding to the
storyboard during assembly.
Mark all the joints in both layers of
the rim for #20 biscuits, then cut the
Building the Rim
Laminate the rim segments
together and both circular rims
to one another using the
storyboard as an alignment aid.
Stagger the segment joints from
rim to rim to strengthen these
connections. Be sure to cover
the storyboard with sheet plastic
first to seal it from the glue, or
your slatted top will suddenly
become a solid one! Poly glue
is a good adhesive here, but
clamp the parts securely. The
glue will foam up and expand.
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
relevant slots. These biscuits will Completing the Framing
help keep everything in line during Take a moment to permanently
assembly and also stop the end of secure the large triangle top in place,
a segment from curling up if the attaching it with glue and nails. Now,
glue ever fails. Use one biscuit in again referring to your storyboard,
each top layer joint and two between create three caps (pieces 11) for the
the wider bottom rim segments. beams. Band saw the arc on the
Offset the segments so each top ends that meet the bottom layer of
layer joint is between two bottom the rim, then trim each to length on
layer joints, then glue and clamp the your table saw. Glue and screw
rims together, as shown below. the caps to both the beams and
the tops of the legs, predrilling
Securing the Legs to the Top
After the glue in the rim segments
dries, give the rim a thorough
sanding. Then set it upside-down on
your workbench and center the
legset on it. Mark its location, and
use these marks to locate and attach
curved rim glue blocks (pieces 10)
to the rim with glue and pneumatic
pins, as shown in Figure 7. Use
clamps if you don’t have access to
an air nailer. Make these blocks
from the cutoffs you saved earlier
as you trimmed the rim. Figure 7: Glue blocks are used to help secure
The final step is to slip the legset the top to the leg/apron subassembly. These
back in place, dry fitting it to the blocks should be glued and nailed to the
glue blocks. When everything fits, underside of the circular rim.
glue and clamp the rim to the apron.
53
WW3681_48-55 4/15/04 12:05 PM Page 54

Leg Laminations Leg Beam Picnic Table

Build 12 leg
laminations to
4 Leg Patterns
this shape.

Leg Stretcher Each square equals 1/2"

3

2
Leg Laminations
(Center)
Build 3 center
leg laminations
to this shape.

Leg
Stretcher

31/2"

21/2"

Picnic Table Notes:

This cutout
• When creating the gentle curves on the table legs creates the
and lower bench rails, it’s not critical to follow our 3 stretcher
drawings exactly. Just use the basic measurements mortise after
to form a curve that looks right. the legs are
glued up. 8"
• Reminder: It’s really worth the effort to make the
storyboard shown on the Pinup Shop Drawings,
page 39. The rest of the project will be much easier
if you do.

54 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_48-55 4/9/04 1:53 PM Page 55

The top of this

and countersinking the screw heads
as you go.
Use your layout to draw and cut
the small triangle (piece 12) to
shape. Center it on the large triangle
cap, then glue and nail it in place.
Make the three spokes (pieces 13)
like you made the beam caps, but
this time taper the edges of the
spokes (see the Pinup Shop Drawings
for shaping the tapers). These butt
up to the small triangle at one end
and a top rim segment at the other.
Then chamfer their top long edges
(but not the ends) with your router
and a piloted chamfering bit. Center
each spoke on a beam cap and glue
and screw (piece 14) them in place.
(Note: Drive these screws up from
the bottom through predrilled pilot
holes, making sure they don’t come
through the top.)
picnic table is
a beautiful study
of lines and angles.
However, fitting the
tabletop slats is
a time-consuming
process. Transfer
the front curve and
the back angle to
each piece as you
space them evenly
across the opening.
Installing the Slats
There’s no quick and easy way to
trim all the tabletop slats (pieces 15)
to length. You’ll have to invest the
better part of a day trimming and
tweaking them for a perfect fit. The
first step is to rip and joint material
to the right width then crosscut
it into slightly overlong slats.
You can use the arched cutoffs you
saved when trimming the rim to
Figure 8: An 8d nail driven through a block
of wood is useful as a spacer when attaching
the table slats of the bench seat slats.
help you draw the arc where each
slat meets the rim. A straightedge
will help you transfer the angle at
the other end onto your stock. Band
saw both ends to shape, then belt or
disk sand the cut edges. Mill a small
chamfer on the top edges of each
slat, then glue and screw them in
place to the lower rim and beam
caps, driving the attachment screws
up from below.
Adding the Lazy Susan Tray
The circular tray with a lazy Susan
(pieces 16 and 17) at the center of
the table has two functions. First, it
hides the exposed ends of several
structural components, protecting
them from the weather. And,
second, it’s a great way to make
condiments available to all the
diners without anyone having to
develop a boardinghouse reach.
Build the tray as shown below.
Finishing Up
For details on how I finished both
this picnic table and its kidney-
shaped benches, turn to page 58. In
fact, I encourage you to build three
of those benches, too, once the dust
settles from this project.

16
Circular Solution
Edge glue enough stock to create a blank for the tray, then band saw it
to shape. Chamfer the top edge, then use your circle cutting jig to create
17 a 1/4"-deep groove in the bottom face for the lazy Susan mechanism
(piece 17). Next, move to the assembled tabletop and center the circle
cutting jig. Rout a 1/4" deep groove onto the tabletop that matches the
circle routed into the tray. Mount the lazy Susan to the tray. The tray and
hardware rest firmly in the table groove but are removable for cleaning
and service.

55
WW3681_56-58 4/12/04 4:57 PM Page 56

Picnic Table Benches

These kidney-shaped, Spanish cedar benches are perfect
complements to the circular picnic table project on page 48.
By John English

T hese lightweight benches

are designed specifically to
match the preceding picnic table
project. They allow two people to sit
between each pair of table legs.
While the bench tops are kidney-
shaped to pick up the curve of the
tabletop, the legsets are rectangular
and easy to build. The quantities
given in the Material List, on page 58,
are enough to build three benches.
Start by building two A-frames for
the legs of each bench. Cut the rails
and legs (pieces 1, 2 and 3) to the
Material List sizes (see page 58), and
shape the ends of the legs using the
Elevation Drawings on the next page.
Drill counterbored pilot holes for
attaching the legs to the leg rails,
and glue and screw the parts
together. Use your drill press and
a plug cutter to make plugs (pieces
4) to cap the screw heads.
Cut the seat rails and stretcher
(pieces 5 and 6) to size and follow
the Elevation Drawings on the next
page to locate them on the side
assemblies. Counterbore the screw
holes and use glue and screws to
draw these pieces together. Follow
up with plugs on the lower rails. You
won’t need them on the top because
end slat supports (pieces 7) are
attached to the outside face of each
A-frame with glue and clamps. Once
they’re in place, rip some stock to
make the leg appliques (pieces 8).
Trim these to length (the cuts are
angled), then glue and clamp them
to the legs.
Forming the Bench Seats
Each seat’s slats (pieces 9) are held in
place by glue and screws driven up
through four cleats (pieces 10 and 11).

56 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_56-58 4/19/04 9:39 AM Page 57

11
5
3

7
10
Bench Seat Template
2
Use this footprint to lay out the kidney
shaped outline of the bench slats. Trim the
shape after the slats are attached to the
legset subassembly (shown as dotted lines).

3 Each square equals 1/2".

5
11

13° 23/16"
Waste Seat Side
11
/16" Cleat

21/4" 11
Picnic Table Bench 2
• When forming the stretcher
5
and kidney shape for the bench Bench Leg
top slats, we recommend Upper Rail
Lay out the angles and the gentle
transferring the grids to pieces
Bench curve of the bench leg lower rails
of 1/4" hardboard. After shaping (pieces 1) to fit after you assemble
each hardboard template, it’s Leg the legs to the upper rail.
easy to transfer their shapes
onto your workpieces.
3 3

Bench Leg
Lower Rail

1
/2"
6

41/2"

Waste 13°

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 57

WW3681_56-58 4/19/04 10:31 AM Page 58

Miter the cleat ends and

then soften the cuts with an
orbital sander. Glue and 5 7
clamp the cleats to the 2
legsets. 11
Use the scaled Bench 10
Seat Template Drawing on
the previous page to create
a rigid template to trace Exploded View 3
the kidney-shaped benchtops 6
8
on the seat slats. Cut the slats
to approximate length, then chamfer 1
the top edges. Screw them in place,
using spacers to set each of the slats 3
a uniform distance from its
neighbors. These spacers are simply
4
8d common nails driven through
a small piece of scrap, as shown in
the previous article on page 55. Use
the template you created to trace the
shape onto the seat. Number and
remove the slats, and cut their
shapes on the band saw. Reinstall MATERIAL LIST (THREE BENCHES)
them on the legset, this time with
screws and glue. T xW x L
1 Bench Leg Lower Rails (6) 3/4" x 23 ⁄ 4" x 101 ⁄ 4"
Applying a Finish 2 Bench Leg Upper Rails (6) 3/4" x 21 ⁄ 4" x 51 ⁄ 2"
Spanish cedar is a somewhat oily 3 Bench Legs (12) 3/4" x 25 ⁄ 8" x 181 ⁄ 2"
wood, even after kiln drying. With 4 Bench Leg Screw Plugs (30) 3/8" Dia.
that in mind, and considering that 5 Bench Seat Rails (6) 3/4" x 21 ⁄ 4" x 33"
most parts of this project are glued 6 Bench Seat Stretchers (3) 3/4" x 21⁄8" x 33"
together, I knew I needed a finish 7 End Slat Supports (6) 3/4" x 21 ⁄ 4" x 107⁄ 8"
compatible with both the glue and 8 Decorative Leg Appliques (12) 3/4" x 1" x 15 3 ⁄ 4"
the characteristics of the wood. It 9 Bench Seat Slats (1) 3/4" x 3 3 ⁄ 8" x 468"
turned out that my range of finish
10 Seat End Cleats (6) 3/4" x 11 ⁄ 4" x 10"
choices was actually quite limited.
11 Seat Side Cleats (6) 3/4" x 11 ⁄ 4" x 33"
A poured resinous finish would
not quite suit the fine lines of this
furniture. Remembering the boat-
building past of Spanish cedar, happened with standard red cedar. The net result was a beautiful and
I went with spar marine varnish. It’s After sanding the entire project durable finish on some sturdy
compatible with polyurethane glue down to 220 grit, I applied a thinned outdoor benches. These benches are
and really brought out the deep, rich coat (25% paint thinner) of varnish obviously designed to complement
brown tones of the Spanish cedar. In as a sanding sealer. When the sealer my circular picnic table, but we’ve
fact, the finish is so rich that several was dr y, I knocked down the found ourselves pulling them all
knowledgeable woodworkers have surface with 400- and 600-grit around the place as convenient
since asked if the species is teak — wet/dr y paper, then sprayed on seating for backyard gatherings.
something that wouldn’t have three topcoats of unthinned varnish.

58 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_59-63 4/12/04 2:45 PM Page 59

Child's Adirondack Chair and Settee

A longtime favorite among Woodworker’s Journal readers,
this chair/settee project is sure to thrill young people in your life.
By John English

I must confess ... I’m something of a plan pack rat.

Great looking woodworking plans have a way of
getting tucked away, never again to see the light of day.
Some time back, I realized that I had stashed away
some old “favorites” from the Journal’s early years and
this little Adirondack settee was on the top of my pile.
I mentioned it to editor Rob Johnstone over lunch one
day, and he said I wasn’t the only one who liked that
plan. It’s one of the most popular projects in the entire
Woodworker’s Journal archive!
Rob asked me to reprise the popular project for this
magazine but, like most woodworkers who build
projects from plans, I simply couldn’t resist adding
a few touches of my own. The result was a Spanish
cedar chair/settee designed to be left outdoors.
Whenever you want to switch from individual chairs
to a settee with a center table, it’s a simple matter
of unscrewing a few countersunk brass bolts from
their threaded inserts. Then you use the same bolts
to reassemble the set in its new configuration.

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 59

WW3681_59-63 4/12/04 3:27 PM Page 60

Exploded
6 5 View
CL

13
Bracket and Front Stretcher Pattern Each square equals 1".
(Front View)

12
Child’s Adirondack
9 (Side View)

10
4
9
31/4"
90° 7
/16"
3
25/8"
2
15°
1
37/8" 4
14
7
1 /8" 3
111/4" 10

Child’s Adirondack 11
(Front View) CL

9 7

8"R. 8 1
11 2
1

71/4" 16 2

1 Note: Find the radius 1

starting point by
measuring up from the 15
bottom of pieces 9.

MATERIAL LIST (FOR TWO CHAIRS)

T xW x L T xW x L
1 Legs (8) 3/4" x 17 ⁄ 8" x 12" 9 Back Slats** (8) 3/4" x 25 ⁄ 8" x 151 ⁄ 4"
2 Seat Supports (4) 3/4" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 11" 10 Arm Rests (4) 3/4" x 25 ⁄ 8" x 14"
3 Settee Back Stretcher* (1) 3/4" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 381 ⁄ 2" 11 Brackets** (4) 3/4" x 13 ⁄ 4" x 31 ⁄ 2"
4 Chair Back Stretcher (2) 3/4" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 141 ⁄ 2" 12 Table Ends* (2) 3/4" x 1" x 14"
5 Settee Front Stretcher* (1) 3/4" x 25 ⁄ 8" x 371 ⁄ 2" 13 Table Slats* (5) 3/4" x 25 ⁄ 8" x 10"
6 Chair Front Stretcher (2) 3/4" x 25 ⁄ 8" x 131 ⁄ 2" 14 Brass Threaded Inserts (32) 1/4" x 20 ID
7 Seat Stretchers (2) 3/4" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 12" 15 Brass Bolts (32) 1/4" x 11 ⁄ 2"
8 Seat Slats (6) 3/4" x 25 ⁄ 8" x 12" 16 Brass Screws (96) #8 x 11 ⁄ 2"
*Optional **Size before shaping

60
 WW3681_59-63 4/12/04 3:31 PM Page 61

Arm Rest Brackets

(Top View) 10 (Front View)
11

Each square equals 1".

Child’s Adirondack
Settee
(Section View)
10 9

9
13
4
31/4"
7
/16"
11 3

201/2" 25/8"
2
15°
8
123/4"
1
2
17/8"
111/4"
2
1 Child’s Adirondack
Settee
(Front View)
9

12
13

6 5
The front and back
stretchers (pieces
3 and 5) are key
elements to the
1 1
settee conversion.

This is truly a project for all skill
levels. Choose a weather-resistant
species such as redwood, western
red cedar, Honduras mahogany, or
try out Spanish cedar. It’s a pleasure
to machine and finish, and will hold
up very well to the elements.
Cutting the Parts to Size
All the parts in this project are
3/4" thick, so there’s no need for
a planer. You can quickly rip the
parts (pieces 1 through 13) to width.
Check the Material List (on the
facing page) for these dimensions.
Note that the list includes enough
material to build two chairs, plus the
extra parts needed to convert them
into the settee, complete with table.
Next, cross cut all the parts to the
lengths listed. Since there are no
angle cuts required, this is simply
a matter of using the miter gauge on
your table saw to make a series of Here’s a trick to hold the legs properly during
90° cuts. Mark each part according assembly: clamp all four to a piece of plywood
to the Material List. while you screw them to the seat subassembly.

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 61

WW3681_59-63 4/12/04 3:33 PM Page 62
Use a band saw to cut
the shaped parts. A drum
sander smoothes the
saw marks away.
A disk sander works wonderfully for shaping
the ends of the arm rests, the tops of the back
slats and the front corners of the table.
Use scrap spacers to align the seat slats
properly when screwing them to the chair’s
back stretchers. Stock cut the same width as
the stretcher supports the slats in this photo.
Laying Out Some Curves
There are a few shaped parts in this
project — the front stretchers
(pieces 5 and 6), back slats (pieces
9), arm rests (pieces 10) and
62
brackets (pieces 11). A quick glance
at the Exploded View and Elevation
Drawings on pages 60 and 61 will
orient these parts for you.
After enlarging the Elevations to
create your own full-size patterns,
cut out each pattern with a pair of
scissors and stick them to the
boards with a few dabs of glue or
with double-sided carpet tape. Then
band saw the parts to shape and
clean up the cuts with a drum sander
in the drill press.
Assembling the Seats and Backs
With all the parts cut, you’re ready
to move on to the assembly, most
of which is done with brass screws
(pieces 16). As you proceed, be sure
to keep the following approach in
mind. To avoid splitting your wood,
predrill for every screw. Clamp the
pieces together and drill through the
first piece of wood with a 1/8" bit.
Switch to a 1/16" bit and, using the
first hole as a guide, drill almost all
the way through the second piece.
Countersink for the screws, then
drive them home. Brass screws are
relatively soft, so drive a steel screw
in first, remove it, then install the
brass screw.
Start by screwing the seat
stretchers (pieces 7) to the seat
supports (pieces 2). Screw the back
slats (pieces 9) to the stretchers,
spacing them 1/2" apart. Then
mount the seat slats (pieces 8),
spacing them 7/16" apart.
Attaching the Seats to the Legs
The first step here is to mount the
legs (pieces 1) to the seat supports.
To get everything lined up properly,
you can use an old chairbuilder’s
trick: cut a piece of scrap plywood to
fit between the legs (12" x 111 ⁄ 4"), set
it on a flat surface and clamp the legs
to it (see the photo on page 61).
Screw each of the seat/back
subassemblies to the legs next.
Locating these correctly is a snap:
make a mark 37 ⁄8" up the inside of the
back legs, then line up the seat so the
bottom corner of each seat support is
flush with one of your marks. Now
tilt the seat/back subassembly so it
angles at 15°, as shown in the
Drawings on pages 60 and 61. When
everything is lined up, clamp it in
place, drive the countersunk screws
home and remove your clamps. Use
screws and a dab of weatherproof glue
to attach the four brackets (pieces 11)
to the legs, leaving them flush on top.
Chairs or Settee?
It is a good idea to complete both
chairs, then work on transforming
them into a settee. All the remaining
parts except the table slats are
installed with brass bolts (pieces
15), which are driven into threaded
brass inserts (pieces 14). This is
done so the parts can easily be
changed. You could use screws, but
after a few conversions the holes will
become enlarged and their holding
power will diminish.
Locating the inserts is a matter of
clamping the parts in place, then
drilling a 1/8" pilot hole through
both parts. The front, or more visible
part, is then redrilled for the bolt.
This is a 1/4" hole, countersunk to fit
the head of the bolt. The inner, or
hidden part, is redrilled to receive
a threaded insert. The ones I used
require a 3/8" hole, and the insert is
installed with a flat screwdriver.
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_59-63 4/19/04 10:35 AM Page 63

Future Woodworkers Some Final Notes

he generosity of As I mentioned, I constructed my
T woodworkers is remarkable
settee from clear Spanish cedar.
This wood is a little hard to sand.
and constant. Over the years, Like butternut and some of the less Brass threaded inserts are the key to
many have told us they’ve built dense softwoods, it tends to get converting the chairs into a settee. When
“hairy.” The solution is to apply installing the inserts, the author used masking
this Adirondack set, which a thinned coat of finish first (I used tape as a depth stop on his drill bit.
originally appeared in spar varnish) to lock the wood fibers
Woodworker’s Journal back in in place. Let it dry, then sand off the
nubs before brushing or spraying on
1993. Liz Wojtkiewicz built the three full-strength coats of varnish.
chairs for her friend’s three If this project puts you in a mind to
young daughters, Michelle, build a full-size Adirondack chair,
don’t mess around with scaling up
Nicole and Emma Jewitt. Now this chair. Instead, point your
these young woodworkers browser to woodworkersjournal.com
can’t wait to help Liz build and click on the “Plans, Plans, Plans”
section of our web site. Now type
a fourth chair for their baby “Adirondack” in the search engine at
sister, Leah. the top. In about two nanoseconds, Use the completed arm rests as patterns
you’ll find seven great Adirondack to accurately locate the holes for the brass
plans to choose from! bolts in the table.
Mount the chairs’ arm rests
(pieces 10) and stretchers (pieces 4
and 6) in this manner. I found
it easiest to attach the back
stretcher to the arms,
then install these sub- Threaded inserts allow you to change from settee
assemblies to the chairs. to single chairs and back in just moments.
For the settee, add
the long stretchers
(pieces 3 and 5) to the
bottom face of the short
ones (pieces 4 and 6). To
gain extra gluing strength
when attaching the two
table ends (pieces 12) to
the slats (pieces 13), I
used my biscuit joiner.
Then use the arm rests as
a pattern to line up holes for the
brass bolts. Finish up by rounding
off the front corners of the table to
match the arc on the arm rests.

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 63

WW3681_64-65 4/9/04 3:11 PM Page 64
Victorian Birdhouse
House the neighborhood
songbirds in style and
introduce a child to
the wonders of
woodworking.
By Larry Stoiaken
M y daughter recently expressed
interest in woodworking. Her
questions got me thinking about
projects we could build together,
and I began looking for ideas in back
issues of our magazine. I came
across a Victorian bird feeder and
decided this would be the perfect
time to build a companion birdhouse.
I took the lead on difficult steps
like routing and sawing, but let
Elizabeth try her hand at drilling.
When it came to sanding, glue-up
and finishing, we pooled our efforts
to complete the project in a day. As
was recommended in several books
on birdhouses, we chose cedar for
its natural resistance to decay,
and avoided using treated lumber
because it poses a health threat to
birds at nesting and feeding sites.
Cutting the Birdhouse Parts
Cut out the Full-size Patterns for the
birdhouse shown on the Pinup Shop
Drawings, starting on page 39, and
glue-up two oversized panels for the
endwalls (pieces 1). Now trace the
endwall pattern onto the inside
surface of the panels, making sure to
lay out all the grooves and drilling
locations. You’ll need an entry hole
in only one endwall, of course.
To rout the endwall grooves, use
a straightedge, a couple of clamps
and a 1/2" straight bit. Clamp the
straightedge parallel with each
layout line, as shown in Figure 1, and
64
rout the grooves 1/4" deep. When
you’ve completed the routing,
square the corners of the stopped
grooves with a sharp chisel.
Band saw the endwalls to shape
and drill all the holes as called for on
the Elevation Drawings, next page.
Next, mill stock for the sides,
bottom, door and ridge beam
(pieces 4 through 8). Cut these
pieces to size, angling the edges on
the sides and bottom. Lay out the
hinge mortises on the door and
narrow side piece, as shown in the
Hinge Mortise Location Drawing at
right, and cut the mortises using
your table saw, dado blade and miter
Straightedge
Figure 1: Use a
straightedge to keep the
router bit aligned with Endwall
your groove layouts.
gauge. While you’re at it, drill pilot
holes for the hinges (pieces 9) and
bore a few drain holes in the bottom.
Now resaw stock for the fly
rafters and gable accents (pieces 2
and 3). Trace the Full-size Patterns
onto the stock (see the Pinup Shop
Drawings), and cut out these pieces.
Glue the sides and bottom to the
endwalls with waterproof glue. To
secure the ridge beam, drive
a flathead screw (pieces 10)
through each endwall after drilling
countersunk pilot holes. Secure the
fly rafters and gable accents to the
endwalls with small brads and glue,
then screw the hinges to the
sidewall and install the door. Drill
two countersunk pilot holes through
the door into the bottom and drive
a couple of exterior screws (pieces
11), as shown in the Side View
Elevation.
Making the Roof
The clapboard roofing (pieces 12
and 13) is easy to make with your
table saw. Rip 3/4" stock to width,
then tilt the table saw blade 5° and
adjust the fence to cut clapboard
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_64-65 4/15/04 12:15 PM Page 65

14
Eyebolt Detail
(Section View)
12

Figure 2: To resaw the clapboard, tilt the saw

blade 5° (leaning away from the fence), and use
a featherboard and push stick during the cuts.

5
3
/4" 2"

15°
4 7
Hinge Mortise
Location 6
15° Bottom
1
/4" Detail
(Section View)
Figure 3: Tilt your 1/4"
dado blade 5° to cut 5° 1
/4"
the rabbets in the
clapboard. 10"
Drill vent holes 23/4"
in both
endwalls.
that’s 1/2" thick at its thicker end. 1/4" x 1/4"
Now resaw enough stock to get the rabbet
six clapboard pieces (see Figure 2).
For safety, be sure to use a push
stick and featherboard. Drill a 11/4" entry
Rabbet the upper tiers of roofing hole in one
endwall only. 61/2"
for a weathertight fit, as shown 123/8"
in the End View Elevation at right, Screw the door
using a 1/4" dado blade tilted 5° to the bottom.

(see Figure 3). Next, switch to Birdhouse

a standard saw blade and rip a 45° Elevations 1"
edge on the clapboard for the peak.
Trim the clapboard to length and Drill a decorative
8"
install it with glue and brads. hole in both endwalls.
Drill pilot holes for the eyebolts (End View) (Side View)
(pieces 14) and install them, as
shown in the Eyebolt Detail. Coat the
birdhouse with a clear deck type MATERIAL LIST
finish and allow it to dry thoroughly.
T xW x L T xW x L
Reapply the finish every year, right
1 Endwalls (2) 3/4" x 91⁄ 4" x 117⁄ 8" 8 Ridge Beam (1) 3/4" x 3/4" x 61 ⁄ 2"
after you clean out the old nest.
2 Fly Rafters (2) 1/4" x 5/8" x 7 3 ⁄ 8" 9 Hinges (2) 1" x 2" Brass
Hang your birdhouse eight to ten
feet off the ground, and choose 3 Gable Accents (2) 1/4" x 15⁄ 8" x 31⁄ 4" 10 Screws (2) #6 - 2" Steel
a location that has shrubbery nearby 4 Side (1) 1/2" x 7 1⁄2" x 7" 11 Screws (2) #6 - 1" Steel
and is protected from the wind. These 5 Side (1) 1/2" x 11⁄ 4" x 7" 12 Roofing (4) 1/2" x 2 3 ⁄ 4" x 10"
features will increase your odds 6 Bottom (1) 1/2" x 11⁄ 2" x 7" 13 Roofing (2) 1/2" x 2 3 ⁄ 4" x 10"
of attracting small songbirds to your 7 Door (1) 1/2" x 61⁄ 4" x 61⁄ 2" 14 Eyebolts (2) #10 x 11 ⁄ 2"
new nesting site.

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 65

WW3681_66-70 4/12/04 4:20 PM Page 66

A Portable Folding
Bench for Two

O ur team has just scored its

You’ll be ready for extra innings,
double headers or any other outdoor
function with this portable folding bench.
By John English
twenty-seventh run and it’s
still the bottom of the sixth. Most of
the fans have been sitting on damp
grass for over two hours already.
No, this isn’t a bad day in the majors
— it’s infinitely worse: We’re parents
at Tuesday night T-ball, and it’s
a double header.
Actually, as every parent really
knows, T-ball is great fun. The kids
are having a blast, the weather is
warm and you get to hang out with
your neighbors. In fact, the only real

66 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_66-70 4/12/04 4:20 PM Page 67
downside is those horrible chairs —
you know the ones — flimsy nylon
contraptions that fold up, usually
while you’re still in them! What we
really need is a decent, comfortable
bench that can hold two weary
parents and still fit in the trunk after
the game. Well, you’re in luck,
because that’s exactly what this
project is — a lightweight, strong,
weather-resistant bench that, when
folded and stored, protrudes a mere
3" from the garage wall or trunk floor.
The inspiration for this bench
came from a similar design that
dates from the early 1940s. It was
made of weather-resistant white oak,
so that’s the species we use here.
Building the Seat
The best way to get started on this
project is to cut all the parts to the
sizes given in the Material List on
page 68, then begin the milling
process by working on the seat
subassembly. The two seat supports
(pieces 1) are shaped pieces, and
their profile can be found in the
Pinup Shop Drawings on page 39.
Cut them to shape on your band saw,
then clean up the kerf marks with
a drum sander in the drill press.
Stay at the drill press to bore holes
for the pivot hinges (pieces 2) and
the dowel stretcher (piece 3) at the
locations given on the pattern,
noting the holes for the hinges step
down from 1" diameter to 1/2",
requiring a change of bits (see
Figure 1). Now turn your attention
to the seat slats (pieces 4). Four of
the five slats are simply rounded
over on their top edges with a 1/4"
radius router bit, then screwed in
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
place (see the Pinup Shop Drawings
for locations and spacing).
Counterbore for the short screws
(pieces 5) with a 3/8" Forstner bit:
These will later be filled with oak
plugs (pieces 6), to protect your Figure 1: The holes in the seat supports
for the pivot hinges are drilled in two stages,
family from sun-heated screw heads.
changing from a 1" bit to a 1/2" bit.
Drive the screws home, but don’t
use any glue yet. You’ll remove the
slats during the assembly process.
The fifth and middle slat is
rabbeted on each end (prior to
rounding over the top edges) so the
back legs have room to pivot (see
Pinup Shop Drawings). You can cut
these rabbets on your table saw with
a dado head, using the miter gauge
to keep the cuts square to the end of
the slat. Now secure this final slat to
the seat supports with the same
screws.
Figure 2: Various elements of the back leg
assembly are rounded over with a 1/4" radius
Making the Back Leg Subassembly router bit. These cuts are stopped.
This subassembly is made up of the
two back legs (pieces 7), two rails
(pieces 8 and 9) and a couple of Attach the top rail to the braces in
diagonal braces (pieces 10). Create a much the same fashion, only this
radius on the top of each leg with time use the short screws. Be
your band saw (see Elevations, page careful that your pilot holes follow
70) and sand it smooth. The 55° the Drawings exactly, as there is
miter on the bottom of each leg can little room for error here. Now drill
be cut on your table saw with the countersunk pilot holes through the
miter gauge set at 35°. A similar legs and glue and screw them to the
setup can be used to create the 45° rails. Make sure this subassembly
miters on both ends of the braces. is perfectly flat, and set it aside to
Drill 1/8" pilot holes through the dry. Once the glue has dried, round
bottom rail (locations are on the over all the areas shown on the
Drawings), then counterbore for the Drawings using a 1/4" roundover bit
heads of the long screws (pieces 11). in your router table, as shown in
Dry fit the braces to the bottom rail Figure 2 above.
and extend the pilot holes with a
3/32" bit. Apply Titebond® II or a Assembling the Backrest
similar water resistant glue to the Cut the profile on the top edge of the
joint and drive the screws home. backrest’s top rail (piece 12)
67
WW3681_66-70 4/19/04 9:49 AM Page 68

12
7
55°

Back Leg
(Side view)
13

5
14
6
5
15 Exploded View

13 2
4

16

4
17
4
3
2 1
8
2
9

Back Legset Subassembly

11 7 8

16 45°

Round over the edges

10 with a 1/4" roundover bit. 10
7 7

MATERIAL LIST
T x W x L T x W x L
1 Seat Supports (2) 3/4" x 2" x 133⁄4" 10 Diagonal Braces (2) 3/4" x 11⁄4" x 135⁄8"
2 Pivot Hinges Pair (3) Weatherproof 11 Long Screws (6) #8 x 21⁄2"
3 White Oak Stretcher (1) 1" x 36" Dowel 12 Backrest Top Rail (1) 3/4" x 51⁄2" x 357⁄8"
4 Seat Slats (5) 3/4" x 13⁄4" x 32" 13 Backrest Stiles (2) 3/4" x 2" x 22"
5 Short Screws (20) #8 x 11⁄2" 14 Backrest Middle Rail (1) 3/4" x 11⁄4" x 357⁄8"
6 White Oak Plugs (10) 3/8" 15 Backrest Bottom Rail (1) 3/4" x 3/4" x 357⁄8"
7 Back Legs (2) 3/4" x 2" x 201⁄8" 16 Front Legs (2) 3/4" x 2" x 233⁄8"
8 Back Legset Top Rail (1) 3/4" x 1" x 301⁄2" 17 Retainer Pins (2) 1/4" x 1" Dowels
9 Back Legset Bottom Rail (1) 3/4" x 13⁄4" x 301⁄2"

68 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_66-70 4/19/04 9:51 AM Page 69
according to the Pinup Shop
Drawing dimensions, then sand it
smooth. Round over both the top
and bottom edges with the same
1/4" router bit you used on the seat
and legs earlier, then drill 1/8" pilot
holes at the locations shown on the
pattern. Countersink these holes on
the rear face of the top rail, then turn
your attention to the two backrest
stiles (pieces 13). These are also
shaped pieces, and their profiles can
be found on the Drawings on page
70. Cut them on the band saw, round
over the areas indicated (use the
1/4" radius bit), and then break all
the other edges with sandpaper. Use
the pattern to locate the holes for the
dowel and pivot hinges and drill
them on your drill press. Be aware
of the stepped nature of the pivot
hinge holes as well as which side
is drilled with the larger bit.
Figure 3: Installing the weather-resistant pivot
hinges is a simple matter of lining up the two
sides of each hinge and bolting them together.
Clamp the top rail to the stiles,
then extend the pilot holes with
a 3/32" bit, apply glue and drive the
screws in snug.
At this time you can also round
over the two lower rails (pieces 14
and 15) and drill countersunk pilot
holes in them. But don’t attach them
to the uprights yet — you’ll see why
in during the next assembly step.
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
Moving to the Front Legs
1
/2"
The front legs (pieces 16)
are simply cut to shape on
your band saw and sanded
(see the Elevations on page
70). Miter their bottom ends
on the table saw, again using
the miter gauge to get the
angle right. You’ll have to
drill each leg in two
locations for the pivot hinges
(refer to the Pinup Shop
Drawings for locations),
then you’re ready to tr y
a dry assembly on the whole
project. The pivot hinges are
the key to this assembly
process, so let’s take a closer
look at them.
The Pivot Hinges
The drawing of the pivot hinge
(above right) gives you a good idea
of how this inexpensive but
wonderful piece of weather-resistant
hardware works. One end is fixed in
place by a combination of knurled
teeth and a pair of screws. The other
end is threaded, allowing you to
secure the second (moving) piece of
wood to the fixed piece with a nut. A
sleeve placed over the middle of the
hinge ensures you don’t overtighten
the nut, and it also prevents any
friction buildup.
Installing the Hinges and Dowel
With the holes for your hinges
already drilled at the locations given
in the Elevations, you can go ahead
and secure all the knurled ends of
the hinges in place. Predrill for the
screws that come with the hinges to
avoid splitting, and locate these
screws so they aren’t exactly in line
with the grain of the wood.
You have already drilled four holes
for the stretcher (piece 3), one hole
in each seat support and another in
each of the backrest stiles. Now
Installing Pivot Hinges
9
/16"
1
/2"
1
/2"
Install the main, knurled section
of the hinge (the piece on the left) into
a stopped boring in the first piece of
wood. Slide on a washer and the plastic
sleeve, then insert the threaded end into
the 1/2" diameter boring in the second
piece of wood. Secure it with a second
washer and a nut, both of which are set
into a larger counterbore to keep them
below the surface of the wood.
chuck a drum sander in your
portable drill and enlarge these
holes slightly — enough so the
dowel passes freely through them
without much play.
Slip the dowel through the holes in
the seat supports, then attach the
back rest in the same manner. Secure
the stretcher in the backrest uprights
with retainer pins (pieces 17), glued
into holes drilled through both
pieces. Attach the back leg assembly
next (temporarily remove the screws
in the seats slats to do this), then
install the spacers, nuts and washers
that come with the hinges.
Wrapping Up Construction
Apply waterproof glue to the seat
slats and drive the screws home for
the last time. Glue oak plugs into the
screw counterbores. I used button
plugs with domed tops to make sure
the rain ran off. Measure diagonally
in both directions to make sure the
seat is square before the glue dries,
and tweak it if it’s not. Slip the front
legs in place next, then install the
spacers, washers and nuts and fold
the bench into its closed position.
69
WW3681_66-70 4/12/04 4:23 PM Page 70

Back Leg Seat Support

1" (Side View) 11/4"
(Side View)

43/4"
1"
Note: The leg pieces
are constructed as
mirror images of each
other. When facing
the bench, the seat
support, back leg,
backrest stile and front
leg (pieces 1, 7, 13
7 and 16) are on the
right. The stepped
bores for the pivot
hinges are drawn
accordingly. The
hinges come complete
with full instructions
and bore dimensions.
35°
Front Leg
(Side View)
Backrest 1"
Stile
(Side View)
The last step in assembly is to
install the two lower rails of the
1 65/16" backrest, the ones I said to wait on
awhile back. The idea is to ensure
that the backrest rails fit neatly on
either side of the front seat slat
1"
when the bench is folded. Instead of
relying on the pattern, simply fold
the backrest down and position the
rails on either side of the front slat.
Once they’re positioned, drill the
pilot holes and countersinks and
attach the rails to the stiles with the
short screws.
Applying Finish
I wanted this bench to last at least
as long as the original — that one
was built around World War II —
so I sprayed it with exterior
polyurethane. With all its slat nooks
and narrow parts, this project really
lends itself to spraying rather than
brushing. If you don’t own spray
1" equipment, a couple of aerosol cans
will do a respectable job. To avoid
exposure to the fumes, spray the
bench outside. After all, that’s where
this handy, lightweight folding
bench belongs.
8"

1"
133/4"

16

13

Start
taper
here

1"

The weathered classic shown

above, which Art Director John
Bore for
retainer pin 31/8" Kelliher came across in “deep
storage” was the original
inspiration for this project.
35°
15/8"
70 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_71 4/14/04 3:14 PM Page 71

NEW!
presents
Router Mania by

T he Arts & Crafts style of furniture is showing up everywhere.

We feature it regularly in Woodworker’s Journal, but have
recently put together a special
Enjoy one-stop shopping
publication, “Arts & Crafts for your router!
Furniture,” collected from the Rockler’s new web site has everything
archives of both Woodworker’s
Journal and Today’s Woodworker
for your router needs, including router
magazines available on tables, bits, accessories and more.
newsstands now.

Here’s a preview
Exclusive
of the projects: Router Table
• Fern Table
• Coat Tree
Package
• Slatted Bookcase Only $369.99
• Dining Room Chairs
• Dining Room Table Above Table Includes:
• Leather-top Desk Bit Changing • Porter-Cable 2HP
• Spice Rack Plunge Router with
• Greene & Greene Micro-Height Adjustment
Wall Mirror
To order, call: • Table & Fence System
• Greene & Greene 1-800-610-0883 • Aluminum Router Plate
Dining Table Item #32208 … $5.99
MENTION CODE: W4044 Legs & accessories sold separate. Price Expires 7/31/04

Or order online: www.woodworkersjournal.com

Visit www.RouterMania.com now!
FREE! SUBSCRIBE TODAY!

Rockler.com
WOOD W OR K I N G S UP E RS TO RE

Over 250,000 Woodworkers

Can't Be Wrong!

Every Issue
You’ll Get:
• FREE woodworking plans
• Expert woodworking
advice
• Tool reviews and industry
insider reports
• A gallery of fine
woodworking
• Calendar of woodworking
It’s a

FR EE ! events.
completely
FREE
woodworking

Coffee Mill Plan! magazine!

Download, Build & Brew Woodworker’s Journal eZine

To sign up, go to the address below,
Visit us online at: then check your e-mail box and we'll be there.
www.rockler.com/go/coffeemill Go to: woodworkersjournal.com/ezineODPq.cfm
(Circle No. 188 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

Outdoor Projects Summer 2004 71

WW3681_72 4/16/04 10:33 AM Page 72

THREE INVENTIONS FROM SIMP’L PRODUCTS, INC. ENSURING THE EASE AND FUN OF WOODWORKING PROJECTS!

Pock’it Jig,
TM

Joint’r Clamps and a TM

laminatrol ?
TM

*
Our Pock’it Jig Kit is complete
with all the tools needed to execute
strong and attractive joinery. It contains
1 the pocket jig with clamp, 2 a 3/8”
step drill bit, 3 collar and 4 hex wrench,
Laminatrol isn’t in the dictionary
- it’s a word we created to describe our
unique guide for cutting thin laminates
on your table saw. It easily slips under
the rip fence preventing stock from
5 an ample supply of square drive jamming under it, or riding up over
screws and 6 a six inch square drive bit. your saw blade. If you’ve ever tried to
All the pieces are pictured below. cut thin laminates on your table saw
you’ll recognize the value of this super
product from SIMP’L PRODUCTS.
A steal at $8.50 SUGG. RET.

5 3

6 2

(A CUT-AWAY FROM ANOTHER ANGLE)

The Joint’r Clamp Kit, consisting

PATENT #6,254,320
This kit can be the perfect addition to
your workbench - with it you’ll be able
to make all the joints shown above
easily & rapidly, drilling a hole in only
one work piece. There’s no need for a
pilot-hole in the mating work piece.
A bargain at $39.95 SUGG. RET.
of two clamps, allows you to straight
line rip crooked boards making it possi-
ble to utilize stock you might otherwise
have discarded. With these dual clamps
you’ll be able to make joints in only two
passes on your table saw. If you rescue
a just few pieces of lumber, this handy
& versatile kit pays for itself in a hurry.
Only $16.50 SUGG. RET.

SIMP’L PRODUCTS are available through these and other fine dealers:
AMAZON.COM 800-635-5140 - EAGLE AMERICA 800-872-2511 - WOODWORKERS CHOICE 800-892-4866
WOODWORKERS SUPPLY 800-645-9292 - McFEELYS 800-443-7937 - HARTVILLE TOOLS 800-345-2396
WOODCRAFT SUPPLY 800-225-1153 - PRICECUTTER 888-288-2487 - ROCKLER TOOLS 800-279-4441

SIMP’L PRODUCTS, INC.

21 Bertel Ave. Mt Vernon, NY 10550 914 662 2820 Web site: woodjigs.com E-mail: info@woodjigs.com
OUR CREDO: “KEEP IT SIMPLE, EASY TO USE AND LOW COST.”

* (sometimes you just need a new word)

(Circle No. 13 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)
WW3681_73-75 4/9/04 2:39 PM Page 73
Modular Bench with Planters
Here’s a low-profile seating solution that adds a touch of nature.
A fter building a deck in my
backyard last summer, I took
a long rest. This spring, I decided to
outfit the deck with furniture.
I really liked the idea of blending the
deck with the yard, so I set out to
design low profile, natural looking
furniture with room for plantings.
I also wanted a flexible system so
that I could add more pieces later.
The design I came up with is more
like carpentry than fine furniture, but
for a deck this seems appropriate,
and as an outdoor project I enjoyed
the break from detailed shop
techniques and precise joinery. The
design fulfills both of my original
objectives. It creates a natural setting
that blends well with my deck, and
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
By Rick White
the modular construction gives me
the flexibility to rearrange the pieces
or add on more.
For durability and appearance, the
best woods to choose here are cedar
Figure 1: Use a clearance block and a dado
blade to cut half-laps in the nailers stock.
A long fence on the miter gauge helps
stabilize the cut.
or redwood. I spent two weekends
and a few odd evenings completing
the benches and planters.
Framing the Planters
Begin building all of the planters by
using the nailers (pieces 1, 2, 3 and
4) to make the interior frames. The
Elevation Drawings on pages 74 and
75 show all the measurements and
construction details needed to make
the frames. For strength and
alignment, I used half-lap joints on
all the nailers in the hidden frames
and cut more decorative miter joints
for the exposed cap frames.
Rip enough stock into 2 x 2 material
and cut the pieces to length. To cut
the half-lap joints install a 1/2" dado
73
WW3681_73-75 4/15/04 12:37 PM Page 74

10 16
Exploded 5
/8"
View

173/4"
101/2"
Drain holes

18
15
17
151/4"
7
51/4"

Planters and Bench

(Top View)
1

1 Medium/large Planters Medium Planter

(Side View) (Front View)
1
71/8" 71/8"

Large 241/2" 241/2"

6
Planter Caps
(End View) 5
31/4" 131/8"

1"
1
/2" 11/2"
1
/2"
Inside Edge
20" 13"

blade in your table saw and raise it
3/4". Next, clamp a clearance block
to the rip fence and adjust the fence
so the block is 11 ⁄ 2" from the far side of
the blade (see Figure 1, page 73).
Now use the saw’s miter gauge to
push the nailer stock over the blade
after butting each 2 x 2 up to the
clearance block.
Once the half-laps are cut on the
nailers (pieces 1 and 2), you can
build the frames for the three taller
planters. Set the nailers for the small
planters (pieces 3 and 4) aside for
now. Spread exterior glue on the
mating surfaces, then drive two
#8 - 11 ⁄ 2" screws through each joint.
The interior frames in the tall
planters are spaced 10" apart. Rather
than fumbling around tr ying to
maintain this gap, cut 10" long scrap Assembling the Tall Planters
spacers and set them between the Begin assembling the three tall
frames while attaching the siding. planters by securing the mitered
pieces to the corners of the frames.
Making the Siding Start by laying a piece in position at
The planter design calls for siding in one corner and screwing it in place
two different widths (pieces 5 and from inside the frame. Butt the
6). You’ll need about 84 lineal feet of second corner piece against it, then
31 ⁄ 2" material and about 24 lineal feet screw this piece to the frame. Follow
of 11 ⁄ 4" stock to enclose all the this simple procedure for all the
planters. Once you’ve ripped the corners of the planters.
stock, chamfer both long edges on Once the corner siding is installed,
all the pieces. you can move on to covering the rest
Cut enough of the siding 12" long of the sides with siding. Lay each
to cover the short planters, then cut piece on the frame and screw it in
the remaining material into 24" place from the inside. All of these
lengths for the tall planters. Miter pieces should fit snugly, but if the
cut the siding pieces that meet at last one on each side gives you any
each outside corner of the planters trouble, simply trim it and use your
for a finished look. router to rechamfer the edge.

74 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_73-75 4/15/04 12:27 PM Page 75

Small Planter MATERIAL LIST (LARGE, MEDIUM AND SMALL PLANTERS*)

(Side View)
3
18 /4" T xW x L
1 Large & Medium Planter Side Nailers (16) 11 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 181 ⁄ 2"
2 Medium Planter Front and Back Nailers (8) 11 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 111 ⁄ 2"
3 Small Planter Front and Back Nailers (8) 11 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 161 ⁄ 4"
4 Small Planter Side Nailers (8) 11 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 63 ⁄ 4"
71/4"
121/2" 5 Wide Siding (52 long/24 short) 3/4" x 31 ⁄ 2" x 24"/12"
6 Narrow Siding (24 long/16 short) 3/4" x 11 ⁄ 4" x 24"/12"
7 Large Planter Shelf (1) 1/2" x 181 ⁄ 2" x 181 ⁄ 2" Ply
8 Medium Planter Shelf (1) 1/2" x 111 ⁄ 2" x 181 ⁄ 2" Ply
173/4" 9 Small Planter Shelf (1) 1/2" x 63 ⁄ 4" x 161 ⁄ 4" Ply
(Front View)
10 Large Planter Cap (All Sides) (4) 11 ⁄ 2" x 31 ⁄ 2" x 211 ⁄ 2"
91/4" Small/medium 11 Medium Planter Caps (Long Sides) (4) 11 ⁄ 2" x 13 ⁄ 4" x 21"
Planter Caps 12 Medium Planter Caps (Short Sides) (4) 11 ⁄ 2" x 13 ⁄ 4" x 14"
(End View)
13 Small Planter Caps (Long Sides) (4) 11 ⁄ 2" x 13 ⁄ 4" x 183 ⁄ 4"
14 Small Planter Caps (Short Sides) (4) 11 ⁄ 2" x 13 ⁄ 4" x 91 ⁄ 4"
1" 11/2" 15 Ledgers (4) 11 ⁄ 2" x 11⁄ 2" x 161 ⁄ 2"
3
/4" 1"
16 Bench Boards (25) 11 ⁄ 2" x 31 ⁄ 2" x 48"
1
/2"
17 Bench Cleats (6) 11 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 161 ⁄ 4"
13/4" 18 Bench Aprons (4) 11 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 48"
19 Lag Screws (16) 1/2" x 2"
81/4"
*This list contains materials for one large and two small and medium planters.

Assembling the Small Planters

Because of their size, it’s difficult to
build the small planters in the same
manner as the larger ones. Your drill
simply won’t fit down in the box. To
get around this, assemble the front
and back walls of both planters by
predrilling the longer nailers (pieces
3) and screwing the half-laps. Now
your drill will fit down into the
planters to secure siding to the
remaining short walls.
Trimming the Planters
To support flower pots in the
planters, a piece of plywood (pieces
7, 8 and 9) must be dropped into
each box to rest on the interior
frames. Cut exterior grade, 1/2"
thick plywood to fit each box. For
water drainage, drill 1/2" holes
through the panels before dropping
them into place. Use screws to
secure the panels to the frames.
Each of the planters is capped off
with a mitered frame (pieces 10,
11, 12, 13 and 14). On the large
planter use 2 x 4 stock for the cap,
and for the other units rip 2x strips
to 13 ⁄ 4" wide.
In order to strengthen the
planters, the caps are dadoed and
glued to the walls. Set up your table
saw with a 3/4" dado blade and cut
11 ⁄ 4" dadoes in the cap stock as
shown in the Drawings. Once the
dadoes are cut, rip one side of the
stock to 1" in thickness. This will
make the cap appear less massive
and more in proportion with the
planters. Chamfer all the outside
edges of the stock.
Now miter the stock to length and
make the caps fit over the top of the
planter walls. Use exterior glue and
a couple counterbored screws to
hold the miters together. I filled the
screw holes with plugs to keep the
outside of the planters looking as
clean as possible.
Put glue in the dadoes and drop the
caps onto the planter walls. I drove
a few brads around the inside of the
frame to hold it in place while the glue
set. Wrap up this construction phase
by making the ledger boards (pieces
15) and lag screwing them to the
sides of the three tall planters (see the
Elevation Drawings).
Building the Benches
Begin building your benches by
cutting 2x stock for the bench
boards (pieces 16) and the cleats
(pieces 17). Next, cut the aprons
(pieces 18) and glue each of these to
a bench board. Use these four pieces
for the front and back planks in each
bench assembly. Chamfer all the
edges.
Lay out the bench boards and
cleats and drill countersunk pilot
holes attachment screws. Use 5/8"
spacers between each board. Drive
the screws, then set your benches
onto the planter box ledgers. If
ever ything fits, drive a couple
screws through the ledgers into the
benches.
Now that I’ve got these
bench/planter units finished with
a couple coats of penetrating sealer,
I guess I can rest for another year.

Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects 75

WW3681_76-82 4/13/04 10:56 AM Page 76

Classic
Croquet Set
76 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_76-82 4/13/04 11:00 AM Page 77
Dust off your lathe and sharpen your
turning tools for this challenging project.
By Ron Hampton
D on’t you love the look you
get when you hand a just-
finished project over to its new
owner? That smile is worth a million
dollars, so you can imagine my joy
when I presented this project to an
entire family. Beyond the joy of
giving, this croquet set is a lot of fun
to build, too. Its construction will
help you polish your round-tenon
joinery skills and introduce you to
a couple of new turning techniques.
I chose African padauk for the
cart, primarily because I fell in love
with the color. I also like the way
it machines: padauk has a fine,
smooth texture, is very strong and
hard, and it’s naturally resistant to
decay. The only real disadvantage
is that you must be very careful
about dust collection. The residue is
similar to hot chili pepper dust, and
it can aggravate some allergies.
For the mallets and stakes, I chose
Honduras mahogany. Again, this
was based essentially on color: the
mahogany provides such a rich
contrast to the padauk. (Of course,
the fact that my supplier had it in
the right dimensions had some
influence as well!)
Starting with the Cart
The first step in creating the cro-
quet set is to build the cart, since all
the other parts must fit within its
confines. Select two pieces of
padauk for the cart top and bottom
(pieces 1 and 2), then use the
Elevation Drawings on page 80 to
establish the hole locations in each.
Note that some of these go all the
way through, while others are
stopped. Use Forstner bits in the
drill press and a scrap backer to
bore the holes.
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
Follow the three-step process
shown at right to create a pair of
perfectly matched racks (pieces 3)
for the top of the cart. Then bore
a stopped hole in each rack for
the handle.
Turning the Cart Handle
Get started on the handle (piece 4) For perfectly matching scalloped rack pieces,
chuck a hole saw in your drill press and bore
by mounting a 2" x 2" x 8" padauk holes down the center of a single piece of wood.
blank between centers on your lathe
and bringing it to a 11 ⁄ 4" cylinder at
slow speed with a bowl or a rough-
ing gouge. Smooth the cylinder with
a skew, checking dimensions with
calipers. While the lathe is turning
slowly, mark the handle’s groove
and end tenon locations with pencil
lines. These are all shown on the
Elevation Drawings on page 80.
Remove most of the waste on the
tenons with a skew or a thin parting
tool, then bring it right to 3/4".
(I actually ground a cutting bevel
on the top edge of a regular old 3/4"
open end wrench, and this shop-
Once you’ve drilled the holes in the rack, move
made tool lets me quickly cut an to the table saw to cut the piece exactly down
exact thickness tenon.) Clean up the the center, forming two pieces.
corners with a thin parting tool. Use
the same parting tool to define the
four flat-bottom grooves, then lay
your skew at 45° and bevel the top
of each trough. Sand to 220 grit,
then use a thin parting tool to cut
most of the way through the end
of both tenons.
You can apply finish to all the
turned parts while they are still on
the lathe (except for the tenons).
I use a mixture of Deft® wood sealer
diluted 50/50 with lacquer thinner.
Wet the wood with the lathe turned
off and let it soak for 15 seconds.
Then turn the lathe on and dry the After separating your pieces, stack them for
part with a paper towel (much safer the next cut. Move to the band saw to form
than cloth). This produces a fast the handle portion of the rack.
77
WW3681_76-82 4/13/04 11:01 AM Page 78
The front legs and center columns
are turned with a bowl gouge and
then a skew. Chips will be flying, so
it’s important to wear a face shield
and respirator for these cuts.
After getting the front legs round,
mark off and cut the decorative
grooves that divide each leg into
visual thirds. With long, thin
spindles always use sharp tools and
light pressure to minimize flexing.
To form the tenons, make a marking
cut with your thin skew or parting
tool, then trim the tenon to size.
On the back legs, use a storyboard
to locate the square portion for the
wicket holder. A thin parting tool is
used to make a slice straight in where
the square edge meets the round.
78
satin finish. After finishing, remove
the handle from the lathe and trim
the ends square on the band saw.
Milling Profiles on the Edges
Take the completed parts of the
cart to your router table and lock
a bearing-guided, 45° chamfer bit
in the chuck (see top photo, right).
Bevel the top edges of the rack, the
top edge of the cart top and the
bottom edge of the cart bottom with
this bit. Mill the same profile on
the edges of all six large holes in the
cart top (upper face only), then
switch to an ogee bit to create
a decorative profile along the
bottom edge of the cart top and the
top edge of the cart bottom. All
of these profiles are shown in
Elevation Drawings.
Making the Axle Supports and Feet
The cart can be moved around on
a pair of wheels (pieces 5) that are
attached by means of an axle (piece
6) and two supports (pieces 7). Cut
strips of padauk for the supports,
making sure their grain travels
along the length, not the width.
Band saw these pieces to shape (see
the Elevation Drawings) and sand
their edges. Drill holes for the axle,
then cut the two front feet (pieces 8)
to shape.
Bevel all but the top edges of the
axle supports and the feet using the
same bearing-guided chamfer bit
you used earlier. With small parts
like these, I like to hot-melt glue
them to a large piece of scrap and
take multiple passes. Keep your
fingers away from the cutters.
Forming the Wicket Holder
Cut the wicket holder (piece 9) to
the shape shown on the Elevation
Drawings, then use a Forstner bit to
A bearing guided, 45˚ chamfering bit handles
the edge milling for the top and bottom, the
racks and the wicket holder (shown above).
Once the back legs are
turned, cut the shallow
mortises for the wicket holders on the table
saw. The wicket holders are notched where
they meet the legs, so the mortise isn’t as
deep as it appears in the inset.
drill its two round holes. Switch to
a 1" bit to drill four corners of the
rectangular holes, and complete
these cutouts (as well as the notches
for the legs) with a jigsaw. Sand,
then relieve the square edges with
the chamfering bit (except around
the notches for the legs).
Turning the Columns
Turn the four center columns
(pieces 10) next, using a bowl
gouge and then a skew, as shown at
top left. Follow the same sequence
used earlier for the handle, only this
time instead of grooves, you’re
creating curved arcs. Stick to the
dimensions shown on the Pinup
Shop Drawings, or the croquet balls
won’t fit between the columns after
the cart is assembled. To make this
easier, cut a plywood circle the
diameter of the balls and use it to
test your arcs.
Outdoor Projects Summer 2004
WW3681_76-82 4/16/04 12:13 PM Page 79

4 Exploded
View

1
Making the two front legs
(pieces 11) of this cart is a simple
turning process. After getting
the cylinders round, mark off and 14
11
cut the decorative grooves that
divide each leg into visual thirds,
then complete the tenons, as
shown in the photos at left. You
will have to use a storyboard for
the back legs (pieces 12) since
a portion of each leg remains
square, as shown in the photo
(bottom, left). Mill the round
areas first, referring to the
Elevation Drawings for the
dimensions of the square portion.
Once you’ve formed the tenons 12 9
and removed the back legs from
the lathe, set up your table saw
with a dado blade to cut the
notches for the wicket holder.
Each notch should be 1/2" deep. 10
17 13
Assembling the Cart
After completing a dry fit, begin
assembling the cart by gluing the
handle tenons into their borings
in the racks. Use a weatherproof
glue. Before it sets, attach the racks
to the cart top with glue, biscuits and
clamps. Use biscuits to secure the 8 2
feet, and use dowels to attach the
axle supports, as they’re too small for 5
6
biscuits. Push the axle through the
supports as you work to ensure they 7
will line up later.

18
MATERIAL LIST
T xW x L T xW x L
1 Cart Top (1) 1" x 9" x 25 3 ⁄ 4" 10 Center Columns (4) 13 ⁄ 8" x 13 ⁄ 8" x 231 ⁄ 2"
2 Cart Bottom (1) 1" x 9" x 25 3 ⁄ 4" 11 Front Legs (2) 13 ⁄ 8" x 13 ⁄ 8" x 231 ⁄ 2"
3 Racks (2) 1" x 21 ⁄ 2" x 263 ⁄ 4" 12 Back Legs (2) 17⁄ 8" x 17⁄ 8" x 231 ⁄ 2"
4 Handle (1) 11 ⁄ 4" x 6" 13 Croquet Balls (6) 35 ⁄ 8" Dia.
5 Wheels (2) 2" x 6" x 6" 14 Wicket Posts (2) 3/4" x 3/4" x 18"
6 Axle (1) 3/8" Dia. x 14" steel 15 Mallet Handles (6) 11 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" x 281 ⁄ 2"
7 Axle Supports (2) 1" x 21 ⁄ 2" x 11 ⁄ 2" 16 Mallet Heads (6) 3" x 3" x 9"
8 Front Feet (2) 1" x 31 ⁄ 2" x 3 7⁄ 8" 17 Wickets (9) 1/8" x 14" Brass
9 Wicket Holder (1) 1" x 6 5 ⁄ 8" x 7 5 ⁄ 8 18 Axle Caps (2) Push nuts, plastic 79
WW3681_76-82 4/13/04 11:03 AM Page 80

Wicket Holder
Cart Top (Top View) (Top View)
3 7
/8" 35/16"
13/16" 11/4" Dia.
1
1
13/16"
(End View) 21/16"

Cart Bottom (Top View) 1/2" Dia. 13/4" 3

/8" 9
3 13/4" 17/8"
3" Dia. 1 /4" Dia.
2 17/8" Dia.
41/2"

3
/4" Dia. 21/4" 27/8"
3
/4" Dia. 33/8" 3
/4" Dia.
27/8" 31/2" 3" 27/16"
2
Chamfer
15
/16"
1" (Side View) 7 3
4 /4" 7
8
15
/16"
1" 8 17/16"
(End View)

Wicket Post Wicket

Racks (Top View)
(Front View)
(Front View)
Mallet Handle
3 11/2" (Section View)
1
21/2" /16"
1
1 /2"
5"
3
5 /4" 1
3 /2" 3 /2" 2"
1

Handle (Front View) 3

/8"
14 17
15
1" 4 3
/4"

1 11
/16" 11/8" 13
/16" /16"
3
/16" 3
/16" 3
/16"
Center
Column Front Leg Back Leg
(Front View) (Front View) (Front and Side Views)

51/2"
271/2"
81/4"

33/16"

10
1
12
23 /2"

7" 11 69/16"
Front Feet Axle Support
(Side View) (Side View)

3
7
/4"
8 1"
3
/4"
30°
3
/8" Dia. 1" Dia.
30°
16

Mallet Head
15/8" Dia. (Side View)

80 Outdoor Projects Summer 2004

WW3681_76-82 4/13/04 11:03 AM Page 81
Glue and clamp the four columns
and the four legs into the base, then
turn the assembly upside down
to set and glue these eight pieces
into their relevant borings in the
underside of the top.
Turning Wheels on the Lathe
As you can see from the two photos
at right, turning wheels on a lathe is
easy. Get started by cutting four
square blanks (two for each wheel)
on the table saw and gluing them
face to face. Then, band saw a round
piece of plywood and attach it to
a faceplate. Turn the plywood to
round. This will become the holder
for turning the wheels and, later, the
balls. Drill a pilot hole at the center
of the plywood and use a 3" wood
screw and strips of two-sided tape to
hold a wheel blank in place.
Turn the wheel true, then mark
the points for its central depression.
Use a sharp skew for this operation,
making fine passes. When you’re
happy with the look, sand and apply
finish, then unscrew the wheel and
turn it around. You don’t have to
have the exact same look on the
insides, but it should be close, since
both sides of the wheel are visible
on the finished project.
Rounding Up the Croquet Balls
Put your first ball blank (piece 13)
between centers and turn the blank
to a column. A small spindle gouge
works well for this job.
After all six balls have been
roughed to round, you’ll have to
remount the balls to continue. Begin
by taking the two-sided tape off the
face plate that you used to turn the
wheels. Cut a small cup in the center:
the ball will rest in this cup on the
headstock side. On the tailstock,
Summer 2004 Outdoor Projects
mount a large sealed ball bearing to
a plywood backer secured to a live
To hold the wheels (and the balls) in place,
center. Hold the ball between these band saw a round piece of plywood and attach
two depressions. Now rough in the it to a faceplate. Turn it round and drill a pilot
ball using a 31 ⁄ 4" to 31 ⁄ 2" bi-metal hole hole at the center for a 3" wood screw.
cutter, as shown in the photo (second
from the bottom, at right). This is
a quick and easy way to cut a ball
round. Rotate the ball blank often
between the center supports so you
are cutting it round in all three axes.
After you sand all six balls you can
spray paint them. Set them on golf
tees or egg cartons while you spray,
and fine sand between coats.
Making the Wicket Post Turn the wheel true, then mark the points for
I saved the wicket posts (pieces 14) its central depression. Use a sharp skew for
this step, making fine cuts. When one side is
until now so your spindle turning
right, reverse the wheel to turn the other side.
skills would have a chance to gain
a little polish. A wicket post (also
commonly called a stake) can be
difficult to turn because it gets very
thin and flexible. It’s 18" long, so cut
your turning blank no more than
20": the shorter the blank, the less
flexible it will be.
Apply very little pressure against
your tail stock as you lock the blank
between centers, and make light
cuts in the wicket post as you turn
After minor surgery on the wheel’s faceplate,
it. Aggressive cuts should actually
rough in the ball using a 31 ⁄ 4" to 31 ⁄ 2" bi-metal
make the spindle stop turning. Lay hole cutter — an easy way to cut a ball round.
out the wicket posts the way you
have all other spindles in this
project. Reduce the blank to round
and leave the pointed tip fat (that is,
the full 3/4" diameter). Work on the
wider head first.
Carefully taper the point of the
wicket post, starting from the
middle and working toward the
headstock where it will be thinnest.
Use the tool that you can control the
best — my preference is the skew. Make sure you keep moving the hole cutter
An aggressive bowl gouge will dig through all three axes during the roughing
in, flex the post and break it. process, then work your way through the grits.
81
WW3681_76-82 4/13/04 11:29 AM Page 82

16 15

After turning, sand this piece,

but don’t be excessive about
smoothness, since the post will end
up being painted later on anyway.

Turning the Mallets

Turning the mallet heads is a welcome change
from the spindles since you don’t have to fight
flexing. Turn them round with a bowl gouge
and use a caliper to get the diameter right.
The only difference between turning
the mallet handles (pieces 15) and
the legs is that a stor yboard is
essential here, as the profile is a little
more complicated. It will also ensure
that all six mallets are identical.
Use calipers to make sure the mallet
heads (pieces 16) are 3" diameter,
then complete the rest of the turning
in accordance with the Pinup Shop
Drawings.
Make a simple scrap wood
V-shaped cradle to hold the mallet
heads steady on the drill press while
you bore them for the tenons on
the ends of the handles. Once
everything gets a good sanding, glue
and clamp the handles to the heads.
Make a story board to mark all the critical
points at the top of the handle, then use the
shallow gouge to shape the top end.
No Sticky Wickets Here
I went to a welding supply shop and
got brass welding rods for the wire
hoop wickets (pieces 17). They bend
easily, and I liked the color. Sand and
finish those elements of the set that
weren’t finished on the lathe, then
you’re ready to present your
completed set. Your family will have
fun with this project for years to come.

After applying finish to the head, go back to

the ends and deepen the cut with your parting
tool so only 1/4" remains. Finish up the ends
on the band saw, followed by the belt sander.

Some folks think

the challenge
of the game is to
progress through
the wickets in the
fewest strokes. For
others, real joy
is attained with
a properly “sent”
competitor’s ball.

Rough out the flat part of the mallet handle

with the bowl gouge and then the skew. Use
your caliper to get the diameter perfect.

82
WW3681_83 4/16/04 10:40 AM Page 83

DEAD-ON
PRECISION ACCURACY

Single piece, precision machined

aluminum base remains flat and
true and never needs alignment

POWER

Dynamically balanced, direct drive

motor with dual ball bearings never
slips or bogs down like belt drive units

ACCURACY

Dual rails supported by dual linear

ball bearings for a “Dead-on” cut
that never needs adjusting

10'' DUAL SLIDE

COMPOUND MITER SAW
LS1013
Visit us online at
MAKITATOOLS.COM

GRAND PRIZE GET IT FREE! BY MAIL.

Ford® F-350 XLT 4x4 Purchase 10'' Dual Slide Compound Miter Saw Purchase 12'' Dual Slide Compound Miter Saw
LS1013/LS1013F LS1212
Crew Cab Truck GET GET

OVER 12,000 INSTANT PRIZES 14.4V 12V Cordless

8 WEEKLY PRIZES 3/8'' Cordless Impact Driver
Driver-Drill Kit
For Official Sweepstakes Rules, please
visit www.makitatools.com. No purchase
necessary in order to enter sweepstakes.
Kit Model 6914DWAE
UP TO UP TO
Void where prohibited. Must be 18 years Model 6228DWE
or older to enter. Ends 06/30/04. $150 Value $200 Value

Offer good in U.S. only February 1, 2004 - July 31, 2004. See makitatools.com for redemption forms.

(Circle No. 16 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

WW3681_84 4/21/04 2:11 PM Page 84

(Circle No. 2 on PRODUCT INFORMATION form)

 “America’s leading woodworking authority”™

1. Search All Three Issues 2. Browse One Issue

You can search all three issues below by key- You also can simply browse a single issue
word. Type in what you are looking for, and the like you would in your own library. Click on
search engine will show you the results. Click the cover of the issue you are interested in
on the result and the search engine will display below, and it will open automatically in
the article on your screen in Adobe Reader. Adobe Reader.
Click HERE to search ALL three issues. Click on a
NOTE: If you are not viewing this page in COVER
Adobe Reader, the Search function may to browse
not work properly. ONE issue.
WW3681_01_Cover A 4/16/04 10:25 AM Page 1

COLLECTOR’S EDITION: BACKYARD CLASSICS YOU CAN BUILD

Summer 2004

$5.99US $8.99CAN
$5.99 U.S.
$8.99 Canada/Foreign

42

0 74470 07245 4

Any time you see your cursor

turn into a hand,
you’re rolling over a clickable navigation link.