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BV CPS-IAC Revision: 02

Module No. 2:
CA Level II Training - General Inspection Procedure
Prepared by: GTS

Approved by: Technical Manager

Date: Sep 7, 2018

This power point presentation is copyrighted and intended for your exclusive use. Any copying or replication of
this document to or for any other person or entity, or use of our name or trademark, is permitted only with our
written permission.
The information provided by this document should be used as a reference to the related standards. Details and
interpretations of the requirements should be referred to the original standards.

Module 2: Session Agenda

Pre-Inspection Preparation

Standard Inspection Procedure

Test Your Knowledge & Exercises

Questions and Answers

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After this session, you will be able

1. To understand the main apparel inspection procedure for Carter’s

2. To know how to proceed packing check, product conformity check,


measurement check, workmanship check and other on-site tests
correctly
3. To have the common sense to check the safety concern points

4. To perform the garment inspection in proper procedure and method

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Chapter 1

Pre-Inspection Preparation

This power point presentation is copyrighted and intended for your exclusive use. Any copying or replication of
this document to or for any other person or entity, or use of our name or trademark, is permitted only with our
written permission.
The information provided by this document should be used as a reference to the related standards. Details and
interpretations of the requirements should be referred to the original standards.
Pre-Inspection Preparation

Inspection Room Conditions

► Well equipped inspection stations are essential to a proper inspection.


The inspector should check the inspection room conditions before
inspection.

► The following checklist can be used for evaluation:


• Inspection location: QC room, factory workshop, Warehouse or others
• Size of the inspection room: Sufficient or Insufficient
• Proper lighting: Yes or No (Light source: Sun lighting, light tube or others)
• Inspection platform: Table or Others
• Area of inspection platform: Sufficient or Insufficient
• Cleanliness: Clean or Dirty
• Ventilation: Sufficient or Insufficient
• Humidity: Dry or Wet

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Pre-Inspection Preparation

Best Practice: The inspection work area should be well organized at all
times. Environment - clean, dry and quiet.

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Pre-Inspection Preparation

QC File, it includes the following items:


1. Reference Sample
2. Product Specifications: Construction detail (CD) & final
measurement chart
3. Copy of Purchase Order
4. Packing List
5. Bill of Material (BOM )

Important Reminder:
Make sure all documents are correct, complete and the most updated.

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Pre-Inspection Preparation

Equipment
1. Measuring tape (metal tape and soft tape)
2. Digital camera
3. Defect Arrows Label
4. Others

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Chapter 2

Standard Inspection Procedure

This power point presentation is copyrighted and intended for your exclusive use. Any copying or replication of
this document to or for any other person or entity, or use of our name or trademark, is permitted only with our
written permission.
The information provided by this document should be used as a reference to the related standards. Details and
interpretations of the requirements should be referred to the original standards.

Standard Inspection Procedure

Quantity Check

Carton Selection

Packing Check

Product Conformity Check

Measurement Check

On-site Tests

Workmanship Check

Photo Taking & Report

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Quantity Check

► Check the total number of cartons presented against packing list,


calculate the % of shipment completion.

► Compare shipment quantity break down with purchase order (PO), if


discrepancy whether complied with over or short shipment requirement.

► If shipment is not 100% packed, the inspector must verify the status of
products in warehouse or production areas:

• Product finished not packed

• Product not finished (under production)

• Product not in production

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Quantity Check - Production Status

► The inspection condition for Final Random Inspection (FRI) & Re-FRI is
100% finished and 100% packed.

► If the production status is less than above requirement, the inspector


can’t proceed inspection.

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Carton Selection

►The number of cartons to be sampled is minimum

Total Number round the result up per PO


of Cartons

Note:
The carton selected per PO must cover all sizes, all colors and all
packing methods.
For FRI, the total number of cartons means total shipment carton
quantity.

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Example Calculation

Shipment quantity is 10,000 pieces for one PO. 10 pieces per


carton and total 1,000 cartons.
►If 1000 cartons are packed when we do FRI, we should

1000 = 31.6 = 32 cartons for sampling


(Round up 31.6 = 32).

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Packing Check

► Sample Size & AQL: see below sample size table.

Lot Size Sample Size Accept (AQL 0.04)


0 To 4 1 0
5 To 10 5 0
11 To 20 11 0
21 To 31 21 0
32 To 280 32 0
281 To 500 50 0
501 To 1200 80 0
1201 To 3200 125 0
3201 To 500000 200 0

Reminder:
Packaging check is conducted per each individual PO. Any individual PO
was failed for packing check; the overall packing check result is Failed.
Packing check sample size is based on pieces not cartons.

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Packing Check

► The following need to be verified for packing check:


• Quantity – Actual carton count must match carton label. Example: carton
label shows 100pcs, actual count is 105, result: count 5pcs wrong.
• The consistency of size information found on carton label - All labels must
match between each other, including tagless label, care label, hangtag,
carton label, hanger size clip.
• The consistency of style number found on carton label - All labels must
match between each other, including care label, hangtag, carton label
printed style & etc.
• The consistency of UPC code - Care label and hangtag must match.
• The consistency of Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) -
Each size Hangtags must match.
• Ratio prepack - Actual packed garments must match prepack ratio sticker
size / quantity count.

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Product Conformity Check

► The conformity check will be performed running through the whole


workmanship inspection process.

► Inspect and verify that product conforms to:

The sample

Product specification

Purchase order

Other special requirements

Note: Checking of documents to be done by CA Level III.

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Measurement Check

► Measurement Check

Sample Size: 3 pieces (PCS) per size across all colors. All colors
must be represented in the sizing sample.

Measurement Points: All POMs (points of measurement) in product


spec. must be measured.

Fail Criteria:
Full size full POM: Total out of tolerance measurement points exceed
10% of the total measurements;
Full size single POM: More than 20% of measured samples are found
out of tolerance in the same measurement point;
Single size single POM: If within single size, more than 50% of same
measurement points are found out of tolerance after repeat
measurement (if 2 out of 3 measured pieces are found out of tolerance,
then additional 3 pieces need to be measured on this point).

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Measurement Check

• # Measurements = (# Pieces) x (# Sizes) x (# Points of Measure)


o Example: 3 pcs x 8 sizes x 6 POM = 144 points to measure

• If any audit results match one of below = audit FAIL


o Any single size POM = 2 failure > double sample > total 4 fail += fail
o Any single POM amount all size over 5 POM = fail
o Any total measure points over 10% = fail

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Measurement Check

Example Dispositions: Single Size Single POM

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Measurement Check

Example Dispositions: Single POM (All Size)

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Measurement Check

Example Dispositions: Total Measurement Points

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On-site Test - Equipment / Tools on site Verification

Metal detector verification - only use the tunnel metal detector with
belt conveyor. The metal detector should be verified by a metal
detector calibration kit which contains a ferrous ball (Ø 1.0mm).

Run the metal detector, if the kit passes it with alarm. It demonstrates the
equipment can detect a broken needle no less than Ø 1.0mm. If the kit
passes the equipment without alarm, need check and maintain the
equipment, or choose an other one.

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On-site Test – Metal Detection

► Sampling size: all samples selected for workmanship check

► Requirement:

• Only the tunnel type metal detector with a conveyor belt is allowed to be
used.

• Before test, place the test card onto the calibration block then onto the
conveyor belt to test the 9 point position for verification.
• All garments must pass through the needle detector with 1.0mm sensitivity.

► Criteria: If any piece can not pass through the metal detector and is
found with metal contamination, give Fail result.

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On-site Test – Minimum Stretched Neck Opening for all knit products

► Sample size: all samples selected for workmanship check

► Procedure:

Hold the garment at center front & center back at neck place garment
on pull gauge device bars, set device pound at Zero
Gentle pull device until achieve neck stretch measurement
requirement and mark down pounds (below 7 lbs)
► Criteria:

If any sample is measured narrower or less than the minimum neck


stretched standard, then the test result should be “Fail”.

Reminder:
If there is no this equipment in factory, the inspector can verify this by
manual method and remark it in the report.

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On-site Test – Ease of Peeling off Temporary Label Check

► Sample size: 5 samples, at lease 1 sample per style

► Method:

• Peel off the label on the sample by hand.


► Criteria:

• Any label is peeled off easily and completely, the result should be “pass”.
• Fail, if
The label cannot be removed.
The glue marks or label residues remain on the item that cannot be
removed easily after the label is taken off.
The product surface coating peels off or pilling after the label is taken
off.

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Workmanship Check

► Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection Level II

► AQL: Major 1.5, Minor 2.5 (Critical=Not Allowed), see below table.

Major 1.5 Minor 2.5


Lot Size Sample Size
Accept / Reject Accept / Reject
0 To 150 20 0/1 1/2
151 To 280 32 1/2 2/3
281 To 500 50 2/3 3/4
501 To 1200 80 3/4 5/6
1201 To 3200 125 5/6 7/8
3201 To 10000 200 7/8 10 / 11
10001 To 35000 315 10 / 11 14 / 15
35001 To 150000 500 14 / 15 21 / 22
150001 To 500000 500 14 / 15 21 / 22

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Workmanship Check

► Workmanship check shall include but is not limited to:


• Product appearance
• Manufacture (Stitching, Assembly, Ironing, etc.)
• Accessories function
• Fabric defects
• Cleanliness

► Inspection Method follow general requirement, key points below should


not be neglect.
• Check color shading within the garment.
• Examine all seams to check on broken stitches / open seam by applying
firm and consistent tension to both sides of the seams.
• Insert hand into the pockets to check for broken bag, sand and stones (if
garment washed).
Remark:
If you found 1 defect in the sample during inspection, don’t stop inspection until you completely
check it. You should find all defect in the sample.

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Workmanship Check

► The following sequence in clockwise direction method for


workmanship checking:
From the overall appearance (Presentation) to small parts
From top to bottom,
From left to right,
From face to back,
From outside to inside

Checking in clockwise direction

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Inspection Method- Garments

Tops:

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Inspection Method- Garments

Bottoms:

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Workmanship Check Method

► Here we take garment as an example for how to do the workmanship


check:
Firstly hold both left and right shoulder seam of top, or left and right
waistband outside folded edge of bottom, to check general appearance
from top to bottom. Pay attention to the overall shape, balance and torque,
pulling and hiking up of seams.

Example:
Twisted leg* was found
during hanging check.

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Workmanship Check Method

Then fold garment to check symmetry. Lay folded garment on the table,
and align from top smooth out to bottom. Both length and width need
checked for symmetry.

Incorrect - Align both


top and bottom

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Workmanship Check Method

Put the garment flat on the table, do general appearance check. The
general appearance includes but not limited to symmetry, hi-low between
left and right, color shade variation within a product, poor armhole shape,
wavy bottom line, wavy or twisted inseam/out-seam, poor ironing and so
on.
Check the workmanship part by part carefully, such as the problem of
fabric faults, hole, dirt / stain, oil stain, broken stitches, pleated seams,
puckering, wavy stitching line, run off stitches, double sewing, loose
stitches, seam allowance exposed, lining too long or too short, missing or
misplacement of button and rivet, under placket exposed, untrimmed
thread ends and so on.
To avoid missing any parts of the garment and not repeat checking on the
same area already checked, check the product in clockwise direction.
Touch each part in checking by hand and check it carefully.

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Workmanship Check Method

► During the inspection, please pay high attention to the problems of


symmetry on garment, such as hi-low on pockets, dart position, yoke
seam,front placket, different width on leg opening, uneven length on
inseam,out seam or slit. The symmetry should be checked for both
large and small parts of the products, from the whole to detail; the size
of the same construction parts between left and right, and their position.

Uneven length on out seam High-low welt pocket

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Workmanship Check Method

► If the garments are with the accessories like zipper, button, rivet and
buckle and so on, check them on each piece, make sure the zipper
can be opened and closed smoothly, no problem on auto lock
function, button and rivet should be stable and without any sharp
point. Besides, basic function & attaching strength check for fastener
and other attachments is mandatory.

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Workmanship Check Method

► Slightly stretching seams is a very important step of workmanship


checking. This check should cover inseam, out seam, front and
back rise seam of pants, side seam, sleeve seam, shoulder seam,
the seam on lining and shell fabric etc.. This is to check:

• If there is any broken stitches or open seam

• If there is any color shade variation between the two parts of the
seam

• If the fabric or lining is strong enough

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Workmanship Check Method

► Once found a defect, put an arrow sticker on the defect. Continue until
finish workmanship check for the whole one.

► If garments have no defects, please fold simply and put into a carton
box, make sure not to create crease marks, stains or any other quality
issues (e.g. snag sweater loops by plastic pin).

© - Copyright 2015 Bureau Veritas – All rights reserved Bureau Veritas - 2015 38
Special Check Points

► Special Check Points

• Evaluate garment appearance (symmetry, shape, puckering,


balance, etc.) at first sight. Do not just lay the garment on the
table only. You may hang or hold up the garment by hand to
evaluate it, especially for formal garment, pants, shirts, and bras.

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Special Check Points

► Special Check Points

• Sweaters: The defects may not be found easily at first sight.


Each piece should be stretched slightly to check loop condition
regardless of panel or seam. Make sure no single yarn, drop
stitch, uneven knitting of the sweater.

• Knitting garment: Due to the flexible of knitting fabric, inspector


should stretch seams or seam bindings slightly to check for
needle damage, especially for thick areas.

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Special Check Points

► Special Check Points

• Garments with lining: All inspected garments should be checked inside


including turn over of the sleeves.

• Turnover (Reversible) garments: Check both sides carefully. Make


sure both sides may be worn as the garment surface.

• Piece printed garments: Check printing quality, position, and color


shading.

• Striped / Checked garments: Stripes or checks must match according


to specification & approve sample.

• Filling garments: Verify if fiber content label covers all fiber materials
(shell, filling, lining, etc.) according to specification, ensure the filling
material is right.

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Special Safety Concern

► BUTTONS: Check the button sewing stitches. Lock stitch is typically


required for button sewing. It is recommended that the needle thread
and bobbin thread should be same tone.
For button function tests, pay attention to the button sewing, especially
for baby wear. If there is a thread end on sewing stitches, pull it out to
check if the button is insecure.

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Special Safety Concern

► SNAPS: Be aware of the condition of the snap’s pawl. Loose / Uneven /


cross different layer / exposed sharp point / nearby fabric rupture could
be potentially dangerous.

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Special Safety Concern

► ZIPPERS: Some zipper sliders are made of crisp or thin material. Pay
attention to check the torque and flexure ability of the slider. Check if the
slider/pin box/puller is secure.

If slider comes off from


product

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Special Safety Concern

► SMALL PARTS: For any decoration or accessory on baby wear (3 years


old and below), double check if it is secure.

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Special Safety Concern

► Sharp points & sharp edge

Check for sharp point or sharp edge on accessories by careful finger


touching.

It’s recommended the corner of Velcro should be round without


sharp edges.
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The link ed image cannot be display ed. The file may hav e been mov ed, renamed, or deleted. Verify that the link points to the correct file and location.

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Special Safety Concern

► Cords and Drawstring on Children (including babies)


Garment/Clothing
Knots, toggles, and other decorative or functional attachments on the ends
of long, loose drawstrings can catch and snag on other objects. Two
hazards associated with such drawstrings on children’s garment/clothing
have been identified:
• The potential strangulation hazard is associated primarily with hood and
neck area drawstrings;
• The potential vehicular dragging hazard is associated primarily with
waist and bottom drawstrings.

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Special Safety Concern

The general requirements of them are, but not limited as


below:

Toggles, knots or other attachments shall not be used at the free


ends of the drawstrings. Heat sealing or bar tacking is permitted;
Drawstring is NOT allowed in hood and neck areas;
Drawstring is strictly restricted for attaching methods and different
length in other areas. For example:

• The drawstring shall be sewn at the midpoint of the channel so that it


cannot be pulled out of the channel.
•No more than 3 inches of the drawstring shall be outside of the drawstring
channel when the garment is extended to its fullest width.

Children’s garment are subject to CPSC Guidelines (adopt ASTM


S1816-97), please refer to this standard for details.

© - Copyright 2015 Bureau Veritas – All rights reserved Bureau Veritas - 2015 48
Test Your Knowledge & Exercises

This power point presentation is copyrighted and intended for your exclusive use. Any copying or replication of
this document to or for any other person or entity, or use of our name or trademark, is permitted only with our
written permission.
The information provided by this document should be used as a reference to the related standards. Details and
interpretations of the requirements should be referred to the original standards.

© - Copyright 2015 Bureau Veritas – All rights reserved

Test Your Knowledge!


General Inspection Procedure

True False TRUE or FALSE ?


1 QC file must be checked and contained all client
requirements which are correct and updated.

2 The shipment quantity must be 100% finished and 100%


packed into cartons for final random inspection.

3 Measurement check samples are usually selected from


workmanship check samples. It must proceed after
workmanship check.
4 One defect was found, the inspector can stop
workmanship check for this sample and proceed to the
next one.
5 Basic function check is not required for all samples
selected for workmanship check.

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