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23 Jul 2016 - 16 Apr 2019 2017 2018 2019 ▾ About this capture

Hakko FR-300 Teardown and Mod

       I needed a desoldering gun and looking at my options, I could get a cheap one and
enjoy it for a while until it breaks or go all out and get an expensive one and use it a
lot longer with better access to spare parts.

       A quick research and I stumbled upon the Hakko FR-300 as it seems to have
positive reviews all around. I had extra cash to spend and then I bought one from
tequipment.net plus some extra filters and tips.

       It works wonderfully and the parts litterally just falls off the PCBs after
desoldering. It was a joy to use, but I had one gripe. The power LED is the same as
the old stations where it lights up when the heater is on and blinks as the set temp is
reached. Unfortunately, this prevents me from knowing at a quick glance if the unit is
turned on or not and I had to double check if it was really turned off. A small mod
was performed and it is now much better. Look at the pics below for the teardown
and mod.

My FR-300 unit

Removing four self tapping screws on the side and two metal thread screws on the
front allows the case to open.
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13 captures 19 f 🐦
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A small detail of the air

pump motor and crank.

Crank is brass with a small

counterweight added.

Connecting rod also uses a

bearing for the spinning
joint.

Power cord strain relief and ground point screw.

Temp adjustment pot uses a PCB mount trimmer.

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13 captures 19 f 🐦
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Motor is a typical DC
brushed motor, a PCB
containing a FULL BRIDGE
RECTIFIER and a
capacitive dropper is
mounted at the back so
that it can accept 120VAC
input.

Mounting for the front tip assembly uses metal threaded inserts. Nice.
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13 captures 19 f 🐦
23 Jul 2016 - 16 Apr 2019 2017 2018 2019 ▾ About this capture

Two screws out and the

PCB lifts off.

Detail of the temp adjustment and calibration pots.

8 pin tssop chip is an LM2903 dual comparator.

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13 captures 19 f 🐦
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Overview of the PCB. The

other side does not have
any components.

Tracing the circuitry, I found the V+ and V- points where I would put in a new
indicator LED.

I wanted to make an alternate red-green switchover but the red LED is connected
between the comparator output and the triac gate so I opted not to mess with it.

Power to the circuitry was via two 18K resistor droppers in parallel and is half wave
rectified so the circuit I plan to add should not draw a lot of current.
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13 captures 19 f 🐦
23 Jul 2016 - 16 Apr 2019 2017 2018 2019 ▾ About this capture

A 0603 SMD green LED is

placed just beside the
original red. Since this was
a nitride based green, it is
very bright at full current.
I only used a 15K current
limiting resistor to
prevent loading the
original circuitry and just
enough brightness to not
overpower the red.

LED cover placed back and still fits good.

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13 captures 19 f 🐦
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At power on, both red and

green LEDs light up.

When desired temp has been reached, the red LED turns off and the green stays lit
as a power on indicator.
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13 captures 19 f 🐦
23 Jul 2016 - 16 Apr 2019 2017 2018 2019 ▾ About this capture

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