1) What are perfumes?

• A substance, extract, or prepara8on for diffusing or impar8ng an agreeable or a>rac8ve smell, especially a
fluid containing fragrant natural oils extracted from flowers, woods, spices, etc., or similar synthe8c oils.

Reference:

Dic8onary,com. (2017). Perfume. Retrieved June 30, 2017, from h>p://www.dic8onary.com/browse/perfume

2) Differen8ate perfumes from cologne.

• Perfume is the most intense fragrance commonly used, with a concentra8on of 20 to 30 percent. Also
referred to as parfum, it can last as long as 24 hours aPer a single applica8on. During this 8me, your body
chemistry can change drama8cally, so the final scent typically does as well. On the other hand, eau de
cologne, or simply cologne, contains an oil concentra8on of 2 to 4 percent. The term is commonly reserved
for light and fresh masculine scents, which are oPen fruity or musky and typically last a few hours. During
the first hour, the middle notes that are the heart of the fragrance prevail. During the second hour, the base
notes that comprise a fragrance's body take over. This is called the dry-down period, and it's when your
body chemistry interacts with long-las8ng fixa8ves to produce the true or final scent. Since eau de cologne
has a lower concentra8on, the scent does not last as long, so you may need to reapply if you go out for
aPer-work drinks or dinner.

• Perfumes contain a higher concentra8on of oils, typically around 20 to 30 percent, while the oil
concentra8on in cologne is around 2 to 4 percent.

Reference:

Schneider, A. (2016). Cologne vs. Perfume. Retrieved June 30, 2017, from h>ps://www.overstock.com/guides/
cologne-vs-perfume

3) Give the different scents/aroma8c ingredients that can be incorporated into perfumes.

Stabilizers and Perfume Bases

- All perfumes are composed of both a base and a fragrance compound. The perfume compound will
account for 20 to 50 percent of the fragrance and is made from essen8al oils and synthe8c fragrances.
Perfume bases, which account for 50 to 80 percent of a fragrance, are generally made from liquids such
as alcohol and water. They also include a variety of stabilizers, which are used to fix a perfume's scent
and ensure that ingredients do not separate. Most oil-based perfumes are free of stabilizers. The oils
used for these bases are clearly iden8fied and will be familiar to perfume wearers. These fragrances
must be applied with the finger8ps or with a roller ball and are not available in spray-on form.

• Ethyl Alcohol: The majority of perfumes sold in Western na8ons contain an ethyl alcohol base. Also known
as ethanol or pure alcohol, ethyl alcohol vaporizes quickly. It is used in perfume precisely because it acts as
a carrier for a perfume compound but dissolves quickly on the skin. Some organic perfumes use a
denatured alcohol in place of ethyl alcohol due to concerns about the safety of ethanol-based products.

• Coumarin: It is used to enhance aroma in both perfumes and tobacco products. This chemical may be
produced synthe8cally or may be sourced from cassia bark, sweet grass, and some beans. Coumarin has a
slightly sweet scent of its own that boosts that overall scent profile of other ingredients, especially spices
and musks.
• Benzyl Benzoate: Also known as benzoic acid and benzyl alcohol, is used as a fixa8ve or stabilizer in many
perfumes. This alcohol is oPen found in plants and naturally processed essen8al oils. When added to
perfumes, it allows for the stability of fragrance ingredients. Benzyl benzoate helps perfumes to have a
consistent scent and can prevent varia8on in scent profiles for several years.

• Pthalates: On perfume bo>les, pthalates may be called diethyl phthalate (DEP) or may simply be referred to
as fragrance. These plas8cizing agents are used to add stability to perfumes. While some pthalates are
being phased out of perfume produc8on, DEP is s8ll present in about 70 percent of fragrances available on
the consumer market. Much like benzyl benzoate, DEP helps fragrances maintain their scent profile.

• Dis8lled Water: It is oPen listed on perfume packaging as aqua. The water used in perfume has undergone
dis8lla8on in order to remove chemicals and minerals that might affect a perfume's overall scent profile or
stability. In general, dis8lled water is either the first or second ingredient listed on the label, meaning that it
makes up the body of the perfume.

• Beeswax: Perfumes that are sold in a solid form in small 8ns are generally stabilized with beeswax. Those
who are looking for all-natural and organic perfumes should be aware that beeswax is widely used in the
cosme8cs industry. Do not assume that perfumes that include beeswax are necessarily all-natural or
organic.

Essen8al Oils
- Essen8al oils are used to add scent to many perfumes. Many of these oils have been sourced from
plants, woods, herbs, spices, and other organic materials. However, there are many synthe8c essen8al
oils available on the market. Most perfume companies do not list whether oils are synthe8c or natural
on ingredient labels. On many perfume labels, individual essen8al oils are not listed at all. Instead,
companies use various terms to describe proprietary scent blends. Understanding what types of scents
are used in such blends can be essen8al to decoding fragrance labels.

• Lavender Oil: The oil from this flowering plant is oPen used in perfumes that are adver8sed as being
calming or inducing rest. Almost all fragrance products that include a proprietary blend of ingredients
designed to promote relaxa8on contain lavender.

• Rose Oil: Rose essen8al oil is used in perfume blends designed to promote relaxa8on and balance. It is oPen
listed by name on perfume packaging. Be aware that some perfumes use rose water, which is significantly
weaker in scent than rose oil.

• Bergamot Oil: This citrus-based oil is used to add a light, fresh note to perfumes. It may be included in
proprietary blends that are labeled as energizing or invigora8ng. Bergamot oil may also be used in
aromatherapy-based fragrances designed for cleansing.

• Jasmine Oil: This rich floral scent is oPen included in scent blends labeled as roman8c or feminine. Jasmine
has a heavy, dis8nct scent and may be used sparingly in these blends. Spring and summer perfumes also
tend to include jasmine oils.

• Lemongrass Oil: Like bergamot oil, lemongrass oil is used in many blends described as energizing or
invigora8ng. This oil is also a staple in Asian and Middle Eastern blends. It can be easily confused with other
citrus oils.

• Sandalwood Oil: It is widely used in the produc8on of both men's and women's fragrances. It is oPen found
in blends described as woody or warm.

• Opium Oil: The term opium oil in itself can be misleading. Most opium oils are derived from flowers.
Poppies are a staple of opium oil produc8on. However, the flowers used in these oils are not the same as
 those used to create the drug of the same name. Consumers should be aware that the term opium
essen8al oil can also be used to describe an oil blended from various plant, wood, and floral sources.

• Amber Oil: It is used in many different fragrances, especially those classified as oriental. It is oPen included
in proprietary blends referred to as warm or sensual. Many of the amber oils used in these blends are
synthe8c.

• Agar Oil: Also known as agarwood oil, this scent is oPen used in blends described as earthy or sensual. It is a
staple in blends from Asia and is oPen classified as an oriental ingredient.

• Patchouli Oil: Oil dis8lled from the patchouli plant is ubiquitous in the world of organic fragrances. This
dis8nc8ve oil is generally used in products labeled as earthy or warm. It may also be incorporated into
proprietary scent blends designed to promote relaxa8on.

Synthe8c Fragrances
- The majority of perfumes made by major cosme8cs companies use synthe8c fragrances in place of
natural essen8al oils. Finding and decoding the names of synthe8c fragrances on perfume labels can be
especially difficult. Unless a specific synthe8c scent name is given, it will be impossible to determine
what synthe8c components have been used to build a perfume's scent profile.

• Fragrance: This broad term is oPen used by perfume manufacturers who wish to keep their specific
perfume blends secret. Individuals who find this term on perfume labels or packaging can assume that it
refers only to synthe8c fragrances. Many of these fragrance compounds are also used in hair care products,
laundry detergents, and household cleaning products.

• Limonene: It is the chemical that gives most citrus fruits their dis8nct smell. While this compound can be
found in high concentra8ons in the rinds of lemons, the majority of limonene used in perfumes is synthe8c.
Perfumes with limonene may have a slightly astringic smell and can irritate the skin.

• Galaxolide: It is one of a handful of synthe8c musks used in the produc8on of fragrances and cosme8cs.
This par8cular musk has a sweet, slightly woody smell that is most oPen used in women's fragrances.

• Tonalide: Another type of synthe8c musk, tonalide is widely used in perfumes labeled as white musks. It
may also be listed on ingredient labels by its trade name, Musk Plus.

• Musk Xylene: It is used primarily in soaps and fragrances. This ar8ficial musk is no longer used in the
European Union and is being phased out by many American cosme8cs companies. It tends to have a
deeper, richer smell than other synthe8c musks.

• Musk Ambre>e: Individuals who are purchasing used or vintage perfumes should be careful to avoid
purchasing products with Musk Ambre>e. Serious safety concerns about this musk led to it being banned in
the E.U. Most health and beauty experts believe that cosme8cs companies have stopped using this
chemical but that it is s8ll present in many products made before 2000.
 
• Chemical bases and fixa8ves, essen8al oils, and synthe8c fragrances are used in almost all perfumes.
Though these ingredients are used across cosme8cs products, they are not always clearly named on
perfume bo>les or packaging. Eco-conscious shoppers in par8cular should check with cosme8c company
websites for full perfume ingredient lis8ngs.

Reference:

Ebay. (2016). Common Perfume Ingredients Decoded. Retrieved June 30, 2017, from h>p://www.ebay.com/gds/
Common-Perfume-Ingredients-Decoded-/10000000177632555/g.html
4) What is aromatherapy? Give the significance of popular scents used in this kind of therapy.

• Aromatherapy, also referred to as Essen8al Oil therapy, can be defined as the art and science of u8lizing
naturally extracted aroma8c essences from plants to balance, harmonize and promote the health of body,
mind and spirit. It seeks to unify physiological, psychological and spiritual processes to enhance an
individual’s innate healing process. It is some8mes used in combina8on with massage and other therapeu8c
techniques as part of a holis8c treatment approach.

• It is an art and science which seeks to explore the physiological, psychological and spiritual realm of the
individual's response to aroma8c extracts as well as to observe and enhance the individual's innate healing
process. As a holis8c prac8ce, Aromatherapy is both a preventa8ve approach as well as an ac8ve method to
employ during acute and chronic stages of illness or disease.

• It is a natural, non-invasive modality designed to affect the whole person not just the symptom or disease
and to assist the body's natural ability to balance, regulate, heal and maintain itself by the correct use of
essen8al oils.

• It was the French perfumer and chemist, Rene-Maurice Ga>efosse, who coined the term “aromatherapie”
in 1937 with his publica8on of a book by that name. His book “Ga>efosse’s Aromatherapy” contains early
clinical findings for u8lizing essen8al oils for a range of physiological ailments. It seems vital to understand
what Ga>efosse’s inten8on for coining the word was, as he clearly meant to dis8nguish the medicinal
applica8on of essen8al oils from their perfumery applica8ons.

• So we can interpret his coining of the word “Aromatherapie” to mean the therapeu8c applica8on or the
medicinal use of plant-derived, aroma8c substances (essen8al oils) for holis8c healing.

AROMATHERAPY OILS

NAME DESCRIPTION CONDITIONS TREATED

Diges8ve problems, bronchi8s,
common cold, influenza, and
Bay laurel An8sep8c, diure8c, seda8ve
scabies and lice. CAUTION: Don’t
use if pregnant.
Menstrual and menopausal
Relaxant, an8convulsive, an8- symptoms, burns, eczema, and
Clary sage
inflammatory, and an8sep8c anxiety. CAUTION: Don't use if
pregnant.
An8sep8c, an8bacterial, Boils, breakouts, cough, common
Eucalyptus astringent, expectorant, and cold, influenza, and sinusi8s.
analgesic CAUTION: Not to be taken orally.
Hay fever, burns, acne, arthri8s,
Seda8ve, an8-inflammatory, diges8ve problems, sunburn, and
Chamomile
an8sep8c, and pain reliever menstrual and menopausal
symptoms.
Analgesic, an8sep8c, calming or Headache, depression, insomnia,
Lavender
soothing stress, sprains, and nausea.
Indiges8on, nausea, headache,
Peppermint Pain reliever
mo8on sickness, and muscle pain.
 Indiges8on, gas, bronchi8s, fluid
reten8on, and influenza. CAUTION:
Rosemary An8sep8c, s8mulant, and diure8c
Don’t use if pregnant or have
epilepsy or hypertension.
Menstrual and menopausal
Diure8c, laxa8ve, an8spasmodic,
Tarragon symptoms, gas, and indiges8on.
and s8mulant
CAUTION: Don't use if pregnant.
Common cold, bronchi8s,
Tea tree An8sep8c and soothing abscesses, acne, vagini8s, and
burns.
Cough, laryngi8s, diarrhea, gas,
S8mulant, an8sep8c, an8bacterial, and intes8nal worms. CAUTION:
Thyme
and an8spasmodic Don't use if pregnant or have
hypertension.

References:

The Free Dic8onary by Farlex. (2017). Aromatherapy. Retrieved June 30, 2017, from h>p://medical-
dic8onary.thefreedic8onary.com/aromatherapy

Na8onal Associa8on for Holis8c Aromatherapy. (2017). Exploring Aromatherapy. Retrieved June 30, 2017, from
h>ps://naha.org/explore-aromatherapy/about-aromatherapy/what-is-aromatherapy/

5) What are top, middle and base notes? Give three (3) examples of each.

Top Note (~10-30% of your blend)

• Introduce the perfume and are usually thin and mobile, with diffusive, sharp, penetra8ng, upliPing,
refreshing, light, and/or flee8ng a>ributes.

• Also some8mes referred to as the opening notes or head notes, the top notes of a fragrance are
generally the lightest of all the notes. They are recognized immediately upon applica8on of the perfume.
The top notes are also the first to fade given their light molecular structure, but this does not mean they
aren't of utmost importance. The top notes of a fragrance represent the first impression.

• Examples: Basil, Bergamot, Cajuput, Eucalyptus, Fir (Douglas, Siberian, Silver), Galbanum, Grapefruit,
Hyssop, Juniper, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Neroli, Orange, Palmarosa, Peppermint, Pine, Pe8tgrain,
Ravensara, Rosewood, Sage, Spearmint, Tagetes, Tangerine, Verbena, Yuzu

Middle Note (~30-60% of your blend)

• The middle notes, or the heart notes, make an appearance once the top notes evaporate. The middle
notes are considered the heart of the fragrance. They last longer than the top notes and have a strong
influence on the base notes to come. A perfume's heart is generally pleasant and well-rounded. It is
oPen a smooth combina8on of floral or fruit tones; some8mes infused with spices like cinnamon,
nutmeg or cardamom.

• They are usually full-bodied, complex, and comprise the theme or focal point of the blend, while others
augment/complement/balance/harmonize with the other notes.
 • Examples: Angelica, Black Pepper, Cardamom, Carna8on, Cassie, Clary Sage, Chamomile, Cinnamon,
Coffee, Coriander, Cypress, Fennel, Fir Balsam, Geranium, Ginger, Helichrysum, Jasmine, Lavender,
Lemongrass, Lotus, Marjoram, Melissa, Myrtle, Nutmeg, Orange Blossom, Rose, Rosemary, Tonka Bean,
Tuberose, Ylang Ylang, Yarrow

Base/Bo>om Note (~15-30% of the blend)

• The base notes are the final fragrance notes that appear once the top notes are completely evaporated.
The base notes mingle with the heart notes to create the full body of the fragrance, but are typically
associated with the dry-down period. The job of the base notes is to provide the las8ng impression.
These oPen rich notes linger on the skin for hours aPer the top notes have dissipated.

• They are the founda8on on which the perfume is built and are dense, heavy, strong, deep, tenacious,
and suppor8ve (some with fixa8ve quali8es). Also known as bo>om note or drydown.

• Examples: Agarwood, Amber Oil (Fossilized), Ambre>e, Amyris, Balsam of Peru, Cedarwood, Cistus,
Clove, Cocao, Elemi, Frankincense, Labdanum, Liquidambar, Myrrh, Oakmoss, Orris Root, Patchouli,
Sandalwood, Spikenard, Tobacco, Vanilla, Ve8ver, Violet Leaf

References:

Eden Botanicals. (2017). Natural Perfumery Basics. Retrieved June 30, 2017, from h>p://
www.edenbotanicals.com/natural-perfumery-basics.html

Perfume.org. (2017). What are top notes, heart notes and base notes? Fragrance notes explained. Retrieved June
30, 2017, from h>p://www.perfume.org/all-about-perfume/what-are-top-notes-heart-notes-and-base-notes-
fragrance-notes-explained

Esoteric Oils. (2017). Top, Middle and Base "fragrance notes" in the classifica8on of essen8al oils. Retrieved June
30, 2017, from h>p://essen8aloils.co.za/fragrance-notes.htm

6) List and define the different terminologies associated with perfumes/perfumery.

• Absolute: The purest form of material extracted from a specific flower or plant with the usage of a solvent.
The term is also known as an essence.

• Accord: It is a blend, a combina8on of at least two separate notes that, when combined, compose another
dis8nc8ve scent. Many perfumers describe it using a color metaphor: two colors beau8ful in and of
themselves when mixed, produce a third – beau8ful in its uniqueness. The more colors one adds, the more
dis8nc8ve the result is. And when the ar8st is done mixing the colors, he can start pain8ng his masterpiece.
And so can the perfumer.

• Ambergris: It is sperm whale’s stomach secre8on. Un8l recently, this ingredient was used as a perfume
fixa8ve, but due to its high price, now it is being replaced with compounds of synthe8c origin. You can find
these synthe8c compounds by the name of amberlyn, ambroxan and ambrox. Ambergris is an inevitable
part of the iconic Chanel 5, and it has a dis8nc8vely sweet, woody odor.

• Amber: Since ambergris is extremely rare, the next best thing in perfumery is amber. Amber is a chemically
derived accord designed to mimic the scent of ambergris. Made of benzoin, a vanilla like oil from a Styrax
Benzoin tree, labdanum resin which has a woody scent and just a li>le bit of vanilla to mimic that sweet,
mellow soP warmth that drives perfumers crazy. Today 99% of the perfumes contain amber, and the two
terms are used interchangeably.
• Animalic: A broad term used to describe perfumes made with the usage of compounds of animal origin.
Musk, castoreum and civet are the most popular compounds of animal origin. The vast majority of these
animals are now endangered, so the compounds are being replaced by similar synthe8c ingredients.

• Aromachology: A science conceived, named and supported by the Olfactory Research Fund which is
dedicated to the study of the inter-rela8onship of psychology and the latest in fragrance technology to
transmit through odor a variety of specific feelings, relaxa8on, exhilara8on, sensuality, happiness and
achievement, directly to the right side of the brain, thelimbic system, which is the seat of emo8ons,
memory, crea8vity and sensuality. Aromachology is a service mark of the Olfactory Research Fund.

• Aroma8c: Contrary to the culinary meaning of aroma8c as in having an aroma, in perfume language
aroma8c means consisted of predominantly green herbs notes like sage, lavender and rosemary.

• Balsamic: Heavy, s8cky sweet scent that can be associated with balsamic vinegar and which has all of the
proper8es of the vinegar itself: sweet woody odor with a thick consistency. The best way to describe the
balsamic character of a perfume is to explain it with the dry-down of Shalimar perfume.

• Base Notes: The third and final stage of the perfume’s evapora8on process. This is the stage that follows top
and heart notes, or the scent that lives on your skin for the en8re life span of the perfume.

• Benzoin: It is a resin derived from the Styrax tree that has a general balsamic trait – sweet, s8cky odor
reminiscent of the root beer.

• Bergamot: Essen8al oil derived from bergamot orange, with a dis8nc8ve bi>er fresh and orange odor.
• Camphoraceous: The crispy clean and cooling effect eucalyptus, mint and other green herbal notes have on
the skin upon the applica8on of the perfume.

• Character: A recognizable effect obtained in a fragrance. An effect that should be a faithful transla8on of the
genera8ng concept.

• Chypre: This word like so many other words is lent from the French language and it stands for Cyprus. It is
pronounced sheepra and refers to the earthy, woody scents which dominate the air in the forests aPer a
heavy summer rain.

• Citrus: The zesty fresh olfactory notes emi>ed by the inclusion of lemon, orange, bergamot and grapefruit
in the perfume.

• Cologne: A term derived from the French name of the German city of Cologne, where this product was
allegedly first popularized. Originally, it was the condensate from the steam dis8lla8on of a water-alcohol
infusion of citrus peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), herbs, leaves (rosemary, thyme, lavender), and flower
petals (rose, orange blossom). With the modern advent of a wide selec8on of other essen8al oils and
synthe8cs, this cologne has been considerably altered. Today, cologne is usually a diluted version of a
perfume using diluted alcohol as its solvent and contains from 3-10% fragrance oil in the finished product. A
less expensive fragrance oil is generally used for cologne than for perfume. APer-shave lo8ons and toilet
waters are technically considered to be in the cologne category. APer-shave lo8ons usually contain 2-3%
fragrance oil, while toilet waters some8mes u8lize as much as 15% fragrance oil.

• Cologne (Classical): A term reserved for those fragrances which are basically citrus blends and do not have a
perfume parent. Modern colognes, however, are oPen a lighter extension of the perfume.

• Cologne (Men’s): Unlike women’s colognes, it is similar to the concentra8on of toilet water, eau de Parfum,
and in some instances perfume.
• Cologne (Women’s): The lightest form of fragrance with a low concentra8on of perfume oils mixed with
diluted alcohol.

• Compound: This term’s a.k.a is perfume oil, which is more popular than the word compound. It stands for
the concentrated concoc8on of the perfume’s mixture of ingredients, and it marks the undiluted stage of
the perfume’s life. Before it is bo>led and sold to the end users (perfume lovers all around the world), the
perfume compound is diluted with various solvents and the perfume is brought into the world. The
compound is the virgin state of the fragrance.

• Concrete: During the process of extrac8on, flowers are subjected to solvents of various types by which the
oils are removed. What remains is a very concentrated oil known as a “concrete.” The concrete is usually a
solid, waxy substance represen8ng the closest odor duplica8on of the flower from which is derived. Since
the perfumer cannot use the concrete as such, it is further processed into absolutes that have already been
described.

• Civet: It is a cat that lives in the African savannas. It looks like a fox and is a very close rela8ve of mongoose.
Now before you ask why this Animal Planet trivia has been featured in a perfume dic8onary, you should
know that back in the days perfumers used civet musk extracted from the cat’s anus gland to add warmth
and depth to certain perfumes. The list is very long and includes some of the all 8me favorites: No.5,
Shalimar, Nina, pre>y much all of Elizabeth Taylor perfumes, and many more. S8ll, you will be pleased to
hear that due to the endangered status of this African mammal and civet musk sky-high price, perfumers
nowadays use synthe8c version of the ingredient.

• Depth: A fragrance has depth when a leading iden8ty of accord or character is no8ceable during its
evolu8on from top notes to dry down.

• Diffusive: A term used to describe a fragrance, the odor of which spreads quickly and widely. It fills the
space. Also described as “throw” or “liP.”

• Drydown: The final phase of a fragrance, the character that appears several hours aPer applica8on.
Perfumers evaluate the base notes and the tenacity of the fragrance during this stage.

• Earthy: The peculiar aroma of fresh turned soil. It is also described as “rooty” as is exhibited in ve8ver oil
and some8mes in patchouli oil.

• Eau de Cologne: Oldest term for perfume, used in North America for masculine scents. Light, fresh and
fruity, typically composed of 2% – 4% perfume oils in alcohol and water. Tend to be used in fragrances for
younger people. Usually lasts for about 2 hours.

• Eau de Parfum: Historically genderless, used to describe both men’s and women’s fragrances. The best term
used to describe a fragrance. Contains 15% – 20% pure perfume essence and lasts for about 5 to 8 hours.

• Eau de Toile>e: A light spray composi8on with 5% – 15% pure perfume essence dissolved in alcohol. Usually
lasts for about 3 hours.

• Eau Fraiche: The most diluted version of fragrance, usually with 1% – 3% perfume oil in alcohol and water.
Usually lasts for less than an hour.

• Enfleurage: The tradi8onal method of separa8ng the absolute from flowers. The procedure involves placing
the petals between layers of fat to which they impart their odor. The layering is repeated again and again
with fresh petals un8l the fat is rich in the flower’s essen8al oils. The oils are extracted from the fat with
alcohol, aPer which the alcohol is dis8lled leaving the absolute.
• Essen8al Oil: Essence of plants derived by expression or dis8lla8on. These oils are highly concentrated and
also known as virgin oils.

• Evanescent: OPen this term goes hand in hand with the notes and is used to mark fragrant
notes that evaporate quickly. Some8mes it is also used to describe flee8ng perfumes. The ones that rather
mix with the air than your skin and which cannot be felt neither by you nor anyone in your very, very close
proximity.

• Expression: A produc8on method used to obtain citrus oils and fruit juices. The expressed or cold pressed
essen8al oils are obtained from the peels of the fruits. Expression yields essen8al oils that can contain a
certain amount of non-vola8le material.

• Extract: An alcoholic solu8on of fragrance oil. The tradi8onal concentra8on of the fragrance oil in an extract
is between 15 and 50% of oil in the finished extract. The layman refers to the extract as “perfume.”

• Extrac8on: A process for obtaining natural oils by means of tanks and solvents and is used with certain
flowers and plants where the heat of steam dis8lla8on might damage or destroy the odorous substances or
in such cases where the yield of oils is rather small. In one process, the tank is sta8onary and the solvent
flows over the flowers or other natural ma>er. The other involves the use of a revolving unit inside of which
the flowers move through the solvent. APer removal of the solvent, alcohol is agitated through the
remaining mixture of waxes and oils and the former is removed by chilling and filtering. The alcohol and oil
mixture is then brought to the boiling point, the alcohol filtered off, and the concentrate allowed to remain
for recovery. The concrete, as previously defined, is the pure essence in solid form from which an absolute
is derived.

• Fixa8ve: This is a special ingredient which is added to the perfume in order to make it anything
but evanescent. Simply put, it makes the perfume lasts longer.

• Floral: When the perfume is prevalent with floral notes, then it is categorized as floral, due to its flowery
scented traits. It is a French word for “fern.” Fougere fragrances depend on aroma8c chemicals to produce
the fern-like notes that combine well with lavender, citrus and coumarin in fragrances for men.

• Floral-Fruity: Perfumes categorized as Floral-Fruity are an interes8ng mix, mostly because the fruity notes of
the perfume are added as refined olfactory accessories to the prevalent floral presence. Imagine you apply
a perfume, and at first the perfume smells temp8ngly fresh, but in its dry down – it’s predominately floral. If
they are Fruity-Floral, then it is a vice versa situa8on.

• Fougere: A classical accord built upon mossy, lavender, citrus character. The fougere accord is a very
important class of fragrance used in perfumery.

• Gourmand: Perfumes that smell sweet are called gourmand. These perfumes are dominated by notes such
as vanilla, chocolate, caramel, co>on candy, toasted almonds and marshmallows and may actually have a
profound effect upon your decision to be on a diet or not aPer all. The pioneer gourmand perfume is
Thierry Mugler’s Angel. A perfume so delicious you want to eat the bo>le.

• Green: The general terms for olfactory molecules which our brain detects as the smell of grass, stems and
leaves.

• Heart (Middle) Notes: The second stage of the love affair between the perfume and your skin. APer the
ini8al perfume passion rush, the second stage is mellower and gives a meaning to the perfume before the
final stage, also known as base notes opening and also known as dry down.

• Herbaceous or Herbal: This is a term which usually describes notes that have hay like or leaf like scent. Most
of the 8me this term is used as a fancy name for dried chamomile or sage dominated scents.
• Hesperidia: A general term used to define all citrus oils.
• Incense: The burning of fragrant gums or resins in a solid or powder form. It gives off a lingering, scented
smoke and is the original form in which fragrances was used.

• Ionones: Synthe8cally derived compounds which are used in very small amounts and which are present
almost in every perfume. Their olfactory character is similar to the one of the iris or the violet flower.

• Leathery: This therm is used to define the pungent, strong smell that comes from the ingredients used in
the process of tanning leather. The leathery notes have animalic quality and a smoky scent. Тhey can be
detected in the smell of a new expensive car interior or a new pair of leather shoes. These notes are
included both in women’s and men’s perfume, even though they are more preferred addi8ons to men’s
colognes.

• Mossy: Perfumes that have aroma8c, earthy notes and scents are called mossy.
• Musk: It is a class of olfactory substances which are predominately used as base notes in the craP of
perfume making. Basically, if we put aside the fancy language, musk are glandular secre8ons from various
animals. You will get the broad idea if I tell you that the name derives from the Sanskrit word muska, which
means tes8cle.

• Nose: A slang word for a perfumer, or a person who is to blame for all the people that swear by their
perfumes. And just to be clear, these people do not have large noses, but they have the ability to detect,
iden8fy and define more scents in one minute that you and I will have in our en8re life8me. Which is why
they are so good at what they do (mixing perfumes all day long).

• Oriental: A fragrance category based on exo8c aromas such as spices, oakmoss and animal notes.
• Ozonic: Olfactory trait of the smell of fresh air that lingers in the space aPer a rain or aPer a scary summer
thunderstorm. Chemists have found a way to design aroma8c compounds that have the ability to mimic this
exact scent. Your very own ozone fresh from a bo>le or a vial.

• Perfume: A corrup8on of the La8n phrase per fumum (through smoke). The most concentrated and
expensive of all fragrance op8ons. Slightly oilier, perfume, or parfum, is composed of 20% – 30% pure
perfume essence. A single applica8on of perfume can last up to 24 hours.

• Perfume Blo>ers: Strips of odorless white blowng paper, which the perfumer uses to evaluate a scent as it
develops.

• Petally: SoP sensa8on which evokes the smell and the feel of various flower petals. The floral perfumes in
order to be successful need to evoke this sensa8on of femininity: the frailty and the perfec8on of each and
every petal.

• Phenolic: This is an adjec8ve that is oPen used to describe perfumes which are made with the usage of a
great variety of raw and natural materials. Perfumes that come with strong, penetra8ng scents like those
dominated by leathery notes or even chocolate and coffee are said to have Phenolic propensi8es.

• Pheromone: Chemical substances secreted by animals (including perhaps humans) to produce a response
by other members of the same species. Sexual a>ractants are the most widely studied and described.

• Pomade: Combina8on of purified fats and flower oils produced by the enfleurage and macera8on
processes.
• Powdery: The perfumes that have baby powder dis8nc8ve trait are said to be powdery. The name derives
from the famous Johnson&Johnson baby powder, and since than any perfume that includes violet,
heliotrope, almond and musk notes are simply called powdery. You can detect this powdery trait if you are
an admirer of the Chanel’s No.19 or Chloe’s Love perfumes.

• Profile: A perfume or perfumed product profile is a descrip8on of the fragrance prepared by a marketer,
which is given to a perfumer for inspira8on and formula8on. The profile should contain all per8nent details
in rela8on to marke8ng the new fragrance plan, type, name, package, color/theme, mood, impression, cost
parameters, etc.

• Pungent: A word used to describe a physical impression of sharpness.

• Resinoids: Are extracts of gums, balsams, resins or roots (orris), which consists in whole or in part of
resinous materials. They are generally used as fixa8ves in perfume composi8ons.

• Rich: Term used to describe “fullness.” This is comparable to the harmonious effect of a full symphony
orchestra. Floral absolutes are classic examples of materials exhibi8ng a “rich” effect.

• Sillage: The scented trail which a perfume leaves behind. I personally prefer to call it a scented tail. Some
perfumes have long, very long tails, and other perfumes are just shy and keep the tails close to the skin. You
can measure the sillage of a perfume by its radius of olfactory emiwng of its scented molecules. If you can
detect someone’s perfume from afar, it can mean one of two things: either the perfume sillage is strong, or
you have an unbelievably good nose for sensing various scents.

• Solvents: Vola8le fluids used to extract essen8al oils from flowers and other natural perfume materials.
• Spicy: A word descrip8ve of a pungent or piquant fragrance. Oil of cloves or oil of cinnamon are classic
examples of spiciness in single aroma8c materials. In the flower group, carna8on and oil of lavender may be
described as having spicy nuances.

• Spicy bouquets: As the name implies, this group relies on spice notes such as clove, cinnamon, nutmeg and
bay for its principal notes. Spice notes are universally used in perfumery. Examples are Pierre Cardin,
Spellbound and L’Air du Temps

• Strength: The rela8ve intensity of a fragrance impression.

• Sweet: A fragrance impression that imparts a sensa8on. Natural examples include vanilla, benzoin and
honey.

• Synthe8c: May be derived or isolated from natural products or manufactured in the laboratory. Some
synthe8cs are superior to the natural in uniformity, stability and availability. Synthe8cs may be as costly as
naturals.

• Tenacity: The ability of a perfume to last, or a fragrance note to retain its characteris8c odor.
• Top Notes: The ini8al impression of all perfumes comes from the top notes. They mark the first stage of the
perfume’s life and they are considered to be the most vola8le elements in a perfume. Just like passion, they
are intense and temp8ng but short-lived.

• Undertones: Subtle characteris8cs of the fragrance background crea8ng pleasant nuances that are an
important part of the fragrance character.

• Velvety: A soP, smooth, mellow fragrance without harsh chemical notes.

 • Vola8le: The property of being freely diffused in the atmosphere, easily vaporized at a low temperature.
• Warm: A word used to describe a fragrance that has a s8mula8ng effect upon the imagina8on. The effect of
warmth is usually conferred by material having an unconven8onal odor.

• White Floral: It is an extremely general term which encompasses the floral notes of all white colored petal
flowers such as jasmine, orange blossom, gardenia and tuberose. These perfumes should evoke the
sensa8on of innocence and utmost purity.

• Woody: The scents that emit the smell of fresh cut wood, such as a freshly sharpened pencil or chopped
fireplace logs. On the other hand, there are certain types of woods that do not smell earthy woody at all.
Like sandalwood, for instance. It smells like dried rose and fresh, rich creamy milk in one.

• Zesty: Perfumes which ooze with unbelievable freshness and boldness reminiscent to that of a grated citrus
peel are said to have zesty character. One perfume that epitomizes the word zesty is Jo Malone’s Lime
Blossom and Basil.

References:

Scent Bird. (2016). Perfume Dic8onary from A to Z. Retrieved June 30, 2017, from h>ps://www.scentbird.com/
blog/perfume-glossary/

Belle Aire Crea8ons. (n.d.). Fragrance Terminology Guide. Retrieved June 30, 2017, from h>p://
www.belleairecrea8ons.com/fragrance-terminology-guide/

Henry, A. (2016). The Real Difference Between Perfume, Cologne, Toile>e, and Other Fragrances. Retrieved June
30, 2017, from h>ps://lifehacker.com/the-real-difference-between-perfume-cologne-toile>e-1761347943

7) Describe “The Nose” in the perfume industry.

• A Nose is a term used to describe a perfume ar8st, someone who is capable of portraying moods, emo8ons
and concepts through fragrance composi8on. A Nose is trained over many years to develop the knowledge
of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, as well as understand how the ingredients
change over 8me and how ingredients may be altered when combined with other ingredients.

• A nose is someone who develops new perfume blends, ranging from the blends used in personalized
perfumes to scents which will be added to things like soaps and shampoos. At any given 8me, there are
thousands of noses in the world, but only around 50 are truly talented individuals, some of whom are
famous in their own right. The best perfume companies employ several noses to work on their scents, with
others choosing to work independently, forming their own companies for the produc8on and sale of
fragrances.

• The technical name for a nose is "perfumer," with "nose" being more like a friendly slang term. In order to
become a perfumer, someone has to have a natural ap8tude for scent, combined with an extensive period
of training. The best noses train in Grasse, France, a region which has been renowned for its perfume
produc8on for centuries, and it can take seven or more years to complete perfumery training.

• One of France’s most remarkable perfumers, Edmond Roudnitska, described as the Mozart of perfumery,
said, ”To create new arrangements, new olfactory forms, it is enough that you think in odours, like a painter
thinks in colours, and a musician in sounds." Roudnitska's most notable achievement in perfumery, is the
1956 fragrance, Diorissimo, based on the delicate floral scent of Lily Of The Valley. As the scent of Lily Of The
Valley cannot be extracted, unlike other flowers such as Rose or Jasmine, Roudnitska created and
 • solved this problem by reconstruc8ng the smell of the beau8ful flower that is now commonly used
throughout the perfume industry.

• Tradi8onally, a nose would have trained as an appren8ce, working with another perfumer, oPen a family
member, to learn the tricks of the trade. In addi8on to being able to iden8fy and blend scents, a nose must
also think about issues like the cost of produc8on, the stability of a scent aPer bo>ling, and how a scent will
interact with other substances. Modern noses typically pursue advanced degrees in chemistry in addi8on to
training in the scent industry, and many also study psychology, since psychology is a very important aspect
of the perfume industry.

• The services of an extremely talented nose can be quite costly. Noses are capable of isola8ng and
iden8fying thousands of scents, and they use a wide variety of resources to come up with scent blends
suitable for a range of individuals. When crea8ng a new fragrance, a nose thinks about who the scent will
be marketed to, and where it will be sold, as people of different classes, genders, and na8onali8es prefer
different scents. They are also capable of designing scents for specific individuals; such services are usually
only available to extremely wealthy people, and the blend remains the proprietary property of the nose.

• Working as a nose might sound roman8c, but it's also hard work. A nose must be hyperaware to all of the
factors which can influence a scent, ranging from substances in the paper blo>ers they use to test fragrance
oils to ambient odors in the laboratory. Most elite noses are assisted by support staffs and appren8ces who
hope to learn the trade from a master.

References:

Air Aroma. (2015). What is a Nose?. Retrieved June 30, 2017, from h>ps://www.air-aroma.com/blog/what-is-a-
nose

Wise Geek. (n.d.). In Perfumery, what is a Nose?. Retrieved June 30, 2017, from h>p://www.wisegeek.com/in-
perfumery-what-is-a-nose.htm