Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Kimberley Duke
Taste&Flavour
Taste&
Flavour
Ryan Riley and Kimberley Duke
www.lifekitchen.co.uk A cook book to inspire those
experiencing changes in taste
and smell as a result of Covid
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
FUNDED BY SUNDERLAND CITY COUNCIL
Ryan Riley &
Kimberley Duke
Taste&
Flavour
A cook book to inspire those
experiencing changes in taste
and smell as a result of Covid
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Zesty corn soup and spicy beans 30 affect people’s ability to taste and enjoy food, but we
can help. At Life Kitchen we create recipes to revive
your sense of taste, so you can enjoy food again.
and almond dipping salt 32 Cook’s note: If you have low immunity, take care with
Mushroom and blue cheese your ingredients and ensure all recipes containing
meat, eggs and unpasteurised, soft or blue cheeses
mac ’n’ cheese 34 are properly cooked through. Consult your doctor if
you are unsure as to the suitability of any recipe.
Introduction
When it first came to light that many people with Covid-19 So welcome to our Taste & Flavour book. In it you’ll find a range
were experiencing loss of taste and smell, our first thought of recipes that use ingredient combinations, along with textures
was – what can we do to help? and other sensory factors, that we hope will help you derive
Life Kitchen is a free cookery school for people who have pleasure from food. We’ve excluded the ingredients we now know
lost their sense of taste and sense of smell because of cancer most people with Covid don’t fancy. There are delicious snacks,
or cancer treatment. Using five elements – aroma, umami, such as Preserved Lemon, Feta & Za’atar Twists, for the days
texture, layering, and trigeminal food sensations (the tingling, when you don’t feel like a full meal, and dishes such as Sambal
burning and cooling we get from spices) – we have taught more Butter Noodles and Mushroom & Blue Cheese Mac ’n’ Cheese for
than 1,000 people with cancer to enjoy food again. when you do. And because sometimes pleasure comes from sweet
We wanted to apply these principles to create recipes for things, we’ve finished with treats, such as Apple & Ginger Ice
those people who have lost their senses of taste and smell as a Lollies with Shichimi Togarashi Dip.
result of Covid. We undertook some research and discovered Living with loss of smell or taste is an individual experience,
that Covid-related changes in our taste and smell have some with no single, typical path. We’ve worked with Dr Duika
distinctive features. Sufferers found they didn’t want to eat Watson Burges from Altered Eating, and the founder of AbScent,
certain, quite common ingredients, including onions, garlic, Chrissi Kelly, who have provided us with the knowledge and
meat and eggs. research to make this book possible. The recipes aim to provide
Any of these olfactory conditions can have a profound breadth and scope in the hope that most – if not all – will appeal
knock-on effect for physical and mental health. At Life Kitchen, to you. Please feel free to adjust any recipe to your own taste
we want to help as many people as possible to enjoy food again, preferences. The book is a beginning – a collection of ideas
and in doing so, take further steps, however small, towards and expertise to help you on your journey towards rediscovering
recovering their overall well-being. the enjoyment of food.
Lots of love
Ryan & Kim
8 9
The pleasure and perception
of flavour
Professor Barry Smith
The pleasure of eating depends on many things: our mood, our realized that, in fact, many were still able to taste sugar, salt,
surroundings, the company we are in. But, at the heart of the lemon juice or the bitterness of coffee – but that was all.
pleasure we take in food is its flavour. Talented chefs know how to When flavour is dulled in this way, we have to turn to other
combine ingredients and use cooking techniques that show food senses to help, especially our sense of touch. Textures – sticky
at its best. When they serve up a delicious plate of food, it is over or chewy, creamy or crunchy – can make foods interesting.
to us – the tasters – to discover the flavours they’ve created. As Ryan and Kim showed in their Life Kitchen cook book,
To many, this is the easy part. We pop the food in our mouths, using umami in dishes can intensify taste and stimulate saliva.
we chew, we swallow and the flavour is all there. But what we don’t Soy and vinegar with sesame oil and sugar provide lots of taste
often recognize in those moments is that tasting flavours is one of when smell is absent. Through their cooking, Ryan and Kim also
the most complicated, multisensory experiences we have, and stimulate the trigeminal nerve, which serves the eyes, the nose
depends on how the brain combines the signals from our taste, and the mouth and produces the stinging, cooling or burning
touch and smell, along with contributions from sight and sound. sensations we have when we eat spice.
The taste receptors on our tongue provide us with only the As well as using many senses to add to the pleasure of eating,
basic tastes of salt, sweet, sour, bitter and umami (the savoury there may be ingredients Covid sufferers need to avoid because,
taste of mushrooms or miso soup). All the flavours of our food in regaining their sense of smell, many have developed parosmia
– meaty or fruity; the taste of carrot or onion, olives or tomatoes – a distorted perception of familiar smells. Through the work of
– are down to smell. A tomato has sweetness and sourness and an my collaborators, patient advocate Chrissi Kelly (who founded the
umami taste, but combine those tastes and you still don’t have charity AbScent) and food scientist Dr Jane Parker, we are
tomato flavour. Most of that comes from the nose – not when you learning why, at a molecular level, parosmia sufferers experience
sniff, but when the aromas released from food in your mouth drift coffee, roasted meats and vegetables, onions, garlic and eggs,
up from the back of your throat to your nose. That’s why flavour is among others, as tasting disgusting. Ryan and Kim have managed
intensified when we swallow and pulse those aromas to the nose. to create recipes in this book that show you how to cook lots of
Sadly, it is also why, when people suddenly lose their sense of great food without using these now strange-smelling ingredients.
smell, as they did in the recent coronavirus pandemic, they will We have reason to think that the symptoms of parosmia will fade
also lose the pleasure in eating. Many people who caught with time, but the period of recovery may be long. These recipes
coronavirus had anosmia – complete lack of smell – and found hope to show that you can still eat well – and with pleasure –
their food dull and tasteless. With investigation, scientists whatever the stage of your journey.
10 11
Snacks
Our work has shown us that eating a full meal while experiencing
changes in sense of taste and smell can be daunting. So, we’ve
started the book with snacks that are perfect for any time of day.
To help broaden the scope of what’s both snackable and
Mix all the ingredients except the oil and seasoning together in
a bowl. Then, little by little, add the oil until fully combined – the
mixture should be dark caramel in colour and the consistency of
double cream. Season generously with sea salt and pepper and stir
to combine.
SNACKS 15
Cracked cucumbers
6 tablespoons Everything Dressing
(see page 12)
1 cucumber, sliced into thick rounds
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
1 tablespoon Odysea balsamic or toasted pumpkin seeds
vinegar of Modena
¼ teaspoon sea salt
Tip the sliced cucumber into a large mixing bowl and sprinkle over
the vinegar and salt. Leave the cucumber to marinate for 5 minutes,
until it has slightly softened.
Add the Everything Dressing to the bowl and toss the cucumber
slices until fully coated, then spoon them on to a serving plate.
Sprinkle over the black sesame seeds or pumpkin seeds, and the
chilli flakes if you’re using them.
We like to serve these as a punchy snack, but we also enjoy them with
fragrant jasmine rice, or as a side to any meal that needs a bit of crunch.
Feel free to swap out the cucumber for slices of carrot, radish or other
crunchy vegetable, if you prefer.
SNACKS 17
Veggie pineapple tacos
a small handful of coriander
(cilantro), leaves picked and
dice
extra to serve
pepper (from a jar), cut into 1cm zest and juice of 1 lime, plus extra
wedges (optional) for squeezing
halved
1 pineapple
Place the diced cucumber and pepper or tomatoes into a large mixing
bowl, then crumble in the feta. Add the coriander and lime zest and
juice. Fold everything together until loosely combined, then set aside
while you slice the pineapple.
Using a very sharp knife, remove the top and the bottom of the
pineapple. Sit it upright on a chopping board and use the knife
to slice downward and remove the outer skin. Turn the pineapple
on to its side and, taking your time, slice it into very thin rounds
(you can cut the rounds using a mandoline, if you have one).
Lay out the pineapple slices on a serving plate and add a spoonful
of the feta mixture into the middle of each. Finish with a final flourish
of coriander, if you like.
To eat, carefully fold up each pineapple slice around the filling, just
like a taco. Squeeze over some lime, if you like, before tucking in.
If you can’t tolerate cucumbers (as some people with parosmia find),
feel free to swap them out for something like diced radish or sliced
baby gem lettuce, which offer a similarly refreshing crunch.
SNACKS 19
Umami biscuits
SNACKS
Preserved lemon, feta and
za’atar twists
1 egg, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons za’atar, plus extra
ready-rolled puff pastry
crumbled
3 tablespoons full-fat natural
yoghurt
2 teaspoons chilli paste
1 tablespoon chilli paste
SNACKS
A little more
substantial
umami-rich, making them a great foundation for a meal. We’ve
packed in yet more umami with the miso – fermented soybean
the world and this recipe marries the two with a wonderfully
aromatic herb vinegar.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Tip in the potatoes
and gently boil them for 15–20 minutes, until tender, then drain and
allow to cool slightly.
While the potatoes are boiling, make the herb vinegar. Whizz all the
ingredients together in a food processor until finely chopped. (Or,
very finely chop up the herbs and chilli and mix them in a bowl with
the vinegar and oil.) Set aside.
Just before the potatoes are ready, make the miso butter. Place a
large frying pan over a medium heat and add the miso, butter, pepper
and soy sauce. Allow to melt, then whisk vigorously to combine. Once
you have drained the potatoes, add them to the miso butter in the
pan, smashing them down lightly with a spatula and cooking and
turning them for a couple of minutes to coat.
Spoon the potatoes into a serving dish and drizzle with the herb
vinegar to serve.
sea salt
2 ripe peaches, pitted and cut into a handful of coriander (cilantro),
leaves picked, to serve
10 cherry tomatoes, quartered
10 slices of pickled jalapeño,
1 x 400g (14oz) tin of black beans,
roughly chopped
drained and rinsed
2 tablespoons jalapeño pickle liquid
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
3 tablespoons tomato ketchup
a small handful of coriander
3 tablespoons Odysea balsamic
(cilantro), roughly chopped
vinegar of Modena
a pinch of sea salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
zest and juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon Tabasco (or to taste)
Make the salsa, if using. Tip all the salsa ingredients into a large
mixing bowl and stir to combine. Set aside while you make the soup.
Place the corn and butter beans into a blender and blitz until smooth.
Stir in the lime zest and juice. If the mixture is too thick (you want it
soupy), add 3 tablespoons of water . Stir in the pepper, pour into a
saucepan and place over a medium heat. Season with salt, bring to
the boil and boil for 5 minutes, until hot. Heat the grill to high.
Make the tabasco beans. Place a large frying pan over medium heat.
Add all the ingredients for the beans and stir to combine. Cook for
4–5 minutes, until thick and glossy. Keep warm. Make the nachos.
Tip the tortilla chips on to a baking tray and scatter over the cheese.
Grill for 1–2 minutes to melt, then remove and spoon over the salsa.
Divide the soup between 4 bowls and top with a spoonful of the beans
and a few coriander leaves. Serve with the nachos.
A LITTLE MORE SUBSTANTIAL
Longstem broccoli with sesame
and almond dipping salt
200g (7oz) longstem broccoli 4 tablespoons mayonnaise
(about 10 stems)
1½ teaspoons ponzu soy sauce
(or regular light soy sauce)
juice of 1 lemon, plus extra if
needed and optional zest
sliced
2 slices of your choice of bread
½ teaspoon cracked black pepper
a large handful of basil, leaves
zest and juice of 1 lemon picked
470g (1lb 1oz) jar of béchamel
(white) sauce
Pour the pineapple juice, soy sauce, ginger and rice vinegar into
a jug, stir to combine and set aside for later.
Make the pickled pineapple. Place the rice vinegar, star anise and
caster sugar in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Bring to a
rolling boil and leave to boil for 1 minute, then turn off the heat and
add the pineapple chunks. Set aside for later.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a high heat. When hot, add the
mushrooms and cook for 6–8 minutes, until deeply golden. Add the
peppers or tomatoes, chilli, basil and tarragon and cook for a further
2 minutes, until the herbs are wilted, then add the rice, stir, and fry
gently for 1 minute. Pour in the pineapple and soy mixture, add the
peas and mix everything together well. Cook for 3–4 minutes, stirring
occasionally, until the rice has absorbed all the liquid.
To serve, spoon out each portion on to large serving plates with
the pickled pineapple alongside.
Try adding some fresh prawns (shrimp) to this recipe – tip them in at
the same time as the mushrooms and fry until fully cooked through.
Melt the butter in a large frying pan over a high heat until foaming.
Whisk in the sambal paste and add the torn basil leaves.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the noodles
and cook according to the packet instructions, until tender.
Meanwhile, add a ladleful of the noodle water to the pan with the
sambal butter, and allow to bubble away to reduce for 10 seconds or
so. Add half the parmesan and stir to combine. Once the parmesan
has melted, add another ladleful of noodle water and the remaining
parmesan, stirring until the cheese has melted and the sauce is the
consistency of double cream. Season with black pepper.
Drain the cooked noodles and add them to the pan with the sauce,
tossing vigorously to coat.
Divide the noodles between 2 serving plates. Spritz with the lemon
halves, and sprinkle over a few more basil leaves, if you like.
basmati rice
Top and tail the aubergines and slice them lengthways in half.
Slice each half into 3 long strips. Score shallow cuts at 3cm (11⁄4in)
intervals along the length to allow the flavour to find its way in.
Make the flavoured yoghurt. Mix together the artichoke purée and
yoghurt in a large mixing bowl and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a high heat. When hot, place
the aubergines flesh downwards in the pan and cook for 5–6 minutes,
until the flesh side is golden brown.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix together the vinegar, soy sauce and maple
syrup or honey and set aside.
Carefully flip the aubergines and cook for a further 5–6 minutes to
brown the other side. Take care not to burn them – if the pan is too
hot, reduce the heat to medium. Season with salt and pepper. Pour
the vinegar mixture over the aubergines and cook for 1–2 minutes.
Add the cornflour paste and allow the mixture to thicken and become
rich and sticky (2–3 minutes). Remove from the heat.
Divide the flavoured yoghurt equally between 2 serving plates,
spreading it out into a layer. Top with equal amounts of the hot
aubergines, then serve sprinkled with the pomegranate seeds,
basil and molasses, and with warmed flat breads or basmati rice.
A LITTLE MORE SUBSTANTIAL
Sweets
Many people experiencing taste and smell changes as a result
sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami. We’ve tried to make sweet
dishes that are stimulating to all of the tastes, while still giving
you the feeling of having a sweet treat.
to put together and is served with raspberry and rose syrup. For
those whose sense of smell is returning, deeply fragrant and
aromatic, raspberries contain compounds called ketones, which
SWEETS
Apple and ginger lollies
with shichimi togarashi dip
peeled and grated
juice shichimi togarashi, for dipping
Pour the apple juice into a small saucepan over medium heat and
add the sugar and grated ginger. Stir well for about 3–4 minutes, until
the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat, allow to cool completely
(about 30 minutes), then pour the mixture into ice-lolly moulds.
Transfer the lollies to the freezer to set (about 3–4 hours).
To serve, run the moulds briefly under a hot tap, then remove the
lollies. Dip the ends into a bowl of the shichimi togarashi (or sprinkle
it over) for an extra flavour hit.
SWEETS
Cherry and almond tarts
2 teaspoons almond extract
200g (7oz) cherries, pitted
melted
zest and juice of 1 orange
4 individual sweet pastry tart cases
sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla paste
2 tablespoons freeze-dried
raspberries (optional)
SWEETS
Fruit and coconut in vanilla
yuzu honey
1 large orange, peeled and
segmented
3 apples, cored and sliced
2 passionfruit, chopped (discard pistachios, to serve
the rind before you eat)
a handful of raspberries to serve
a handful of hulled strawberries,
halved
2 ripe kiwis, peeled and sliced 4 tablespoons Odysea pine
1 mango, peeled, destoned and
cubed 3 tablespoons yuzu
1 tablespoon vanilla paste
chopped into chunks
a tiny pinch of sea salt
Make the dressing. In a bowl, whisk together the honey, yuzu, vanilla
and salt. Set aside.
Combine all the fruit pieces on a large serving platter until everything
is evenly distributed. Pour the dressing over the salad, turning the
fruit gently to coat. Leave the fruit to marinate for 10 minutes at room
temperature, then sprinkle over the nuts to serve.
Feel free to swap in your favourite fruits to make this salad your own
– anything goes.
SWEETS 51
Odysea feeding conversation
AbScent has been offering advice and practical support to those “It was like a light switch: from 100% to 0% in a couple of hours… .
suffering from a loss of taste and smell since 2019 – even before It’s like my nose is switched off.” Covid-19 patient
Covid. At AbScent we aim to support those with olfactory loss in
three ways: knowledge, self-care and smell training. While most patients recover from Covid-19 within a few weeks,
helps the affected person or their care-giver to many are left with ongoing distorted smell, changed taste and
understand the condition. This includes knowing more about loss of joy in food. Those living with or beyond cancer, brain
adapting food strategies for the greatest benefit. injury, Parkinson’s disease, ME/CFS, ageing, among others,
comprises all the coping strategies we can use at can all suffer in a similar way.
home to help ourselves, including learning how to notice even Losing the ability to eat well – “altered eating” – can impact
minor improvements – or deteriorations – in our senses. life far beyond nutritional and physical health, affecting social
, using small jars containing an absorbent pad and emotional well-being, too. Altered Eating began working with
saturated with essential oil, is an evidence-based technique to cancer patients, carers, health professionals and cooks in 2012.
help those suffering from olfactory loss. The aim is to create new Now we comprise an interdisciplinary research group (the AE
neural pathways to stimulate the sense of smell – even in cases Research Network) and a support portal (the AE Mighty Network)
where there seems to be no ability to smell at all. It is a sort of for people working with, living with and cooking for anyone who
physiotherapy for the nose. has a changed relationship with food. We educate health
professionals and chefs; we teach those living with olfactory
For more information on AbScent, smell disorders, self-care and smell
loss how to manage their mental health and find support; and
training, please visit AbScent.org/NoseWell. NoseWell was prepared
we look for creative ways to bring back the joy in food.
with the assistance of the British Rhinological Society.
If you are interested in exploring how to live with altered eating,
AbScent is a charity registered in England and Wales, No 1183468 or interested in research, please visit us:
Research Network: research.ncl.ac/alteredeating
Mighty Network: altered-eating.mn.co/
55
With thanks to Odysea and Sunderland City Council
for making this book delicious and possible!
Taste&Flavour
Taste&
Flavour
Ryan Riley and Kimberley Duke
www.lifekitchen.co.uk A cook book to inspire those
experiencing changes in taste
and smell as a result of Covid
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
FUNDED BY SUNDERLAND CITY COUNCIL