1.

Description
The product discussed here is The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, one of
their most famous products by The Abnormal Beauty Company. This serum is a must-
have for dealing with breakouts, assist users in addressing blemishes, enlarged
pores and uneven skin tone. Its ingredients include Aqua (Water), Niacinamide,
Pentylene Glycol, Zinc PCA, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Xanthan Gum,
Isoceteth-20, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin (The Ordinary,
2020). Once going out with my friends in a shopping mall, we attended a beauty
seminar and heard medical experts recommend this product and they advised users
to apply this serum to the skin about two or three times a week. The essay
discusses the specific chemicals of this product and suggests some possible
methods to reduce people’s exposure to these substances.

2. Interpretation and evaluation

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% contains 10% Niacinamide, also known
as Vitamin B3, and 1% Zinc. The composition of this serum contains no oil, no
alcohol and no silicone (The Ordinary, 2020). Vitamin B3 helps to reduce
congestion of the skin and balance the amount of sebum so that the skin does not
pour oil, thereby reducing excess oil on the skin. At the same time, it protects the
skin from dehydration and irritation. It also contributes to the reduction of facial
wrinkles (Healthline, 2018).
Niacinamide is well-performed in the case of appropriate doses about 35 mg per
day because this amount helps users avoid the redness and itching of the skin.
However, according to MakingCosmetics.com (2015), Niacinamide has 3 GHS
hazard statements like H319, H335 and H336, which can lead to serious eye
irritation, respiratory irritation and dizziness respectively.
Zinc is an anti-inflammatory and plays an important role in promoting collagen
production. Zinc PCA blocks UVA rays that induce activating protein-1 (AP-1) and
reduces production of metalloproteinase-1 in these cells, which is believed to be
involved in collagen depletion at the skin. (Takino Y, Okura F, Kitazawa M,
Iwasaki K, Tagami H., 2011, p.23). A real human trial from the manufacturer
demonstrated that zinc significantly reduced sebum after 28 days of use at a
concentration of 1%. Besides, Zinc may cause difficulty breathing. Especially,
direct contact with eyes may cause tearing or blurred vision and the skin might be
irritated with itch.
Propylene Glycol is effective in keeping the skin moisturized enough and
preventing dehydration. This is a safe product to use and the concentration can be
up to 50%. Contrary to this, Propylene Glycol is harmful if swallowed and in case
of contact with skin and eyes, it will cause irritation. Repeated or prolonged
exposure to this chemical can damage your skin. (Science Lab, 2012). However,
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA, 2019) has classified propylene glycol as
“recognized as safe”. People can even be in direct exposure to this chemical
because eye or skin irritation is mild and temporary. Propylene glycol can be toxic,
but if used in the appropriate doses recommended by world organizations, it will
not have a negative effect on your skin.
Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum helps skin to be smoother and anti-aging when
applied to the skin due to an increase in water content in the horny layer.
Furthermore, the phytonutrients in this substance have no side effects, so
Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum is economical and safe to use in the treatment of
facial wrinkles (Postepy Dermatol Alergol, 2017:339-6). This substance is not
classified as hazardment according to Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008. It serves as
a medicinal product because of its high potency, heat stability (Joseph et al.,
2012:270-8). Other medicinal uses of it include both complementary and
therapeutic (Mishra, Anuradha, and Annu Vij Malhotra, 2009).

Xanthan Gum is a natural gum polysaccharide created through the fermentation of sugar
(glucose or sucrose) by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. Xanthan Gum acts as a
thickener and emulsion stabilizer in cosmetics. When applied to the skin, Xanthan gum is
shown to be absolutely safe when used appropriately (WebMB, n.d). Xanthan Gum is not
categorized as harmful according to Regulation (EU) No 1272/2008. In normal
conditions, the product does not cause any harm for health and the environment. One
study reported that 5% Xanthan Gum caused irritation. However, there is no interference
of control group and the lack of study details, the Panel often that the local was the
outcome of the study methodology rather than by the xanthan gum. Moreover, no
evidence of human or nonhuman testing is clarified.

Isoceteth-20 is classified as emulsifying and surfactant. It is not considered

harmful by the 2012 OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200)
and is not a hazardous chemical according to the Globally Harmonized System
(GHS) (Spectrum, 2017). The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel clarifies this
substance is safe to use as it does not cause any irritation.
Ethoxydiglycol is a chemical mainly used in skincare products as a solvent, assisting
core ingredients in working effectively. It also improves the thickness, making the
substance lighter and easier to spread on the skin. However, it is reported not to
provide any particular and obvious benefits to the skin (The Derm Review, 2020).
It is not identified with any hazards according to the regulation (EC) No 1272/2008.
According to the Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary (Michalun, M. V., &
DiNardo, J. C., 2014), ethoxydiglycol is non-irritating when applied to the skin. It is
recommended that those who have an identified allergy to this substance should not use
it. There are some controversy that this chemical can cause the skin to contaminate, but
the process of cleaning and testing this product for contaminations is strictly controlled.
Phenoxyethanol is antibacterial and widely used as a preservative in cosmetic products.
According to the European Scientific Commission for Consumer Safety, phenoxyethanol
is safe for all consumers of all ages, including children at concentrations of 1%. In animal
toxicity studies, this substance has a harmful effect but only if the exposure is about 200
times higher than the average consumer exposure (Dréno, B., Zuberbier, T., Gelmetti, C.,
Gontijo, G., & Marinovich, M., 2019:15-24). Although widely used in cosmetic products,
phenoxyethanol is a rare sensitizer. It is regarded as one of the best preservatives in
cosmetic products. According to Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 (CLP) ,
Phenoxyethanol is harmful if swallowed and this substance can cause serious eye
irritation.
Chlorphenesin functions as a preservative, and is commonly used in concentrations up to
0.3% in cosmetic products (Johnson Jr, W., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A.,
Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. , 2014: 5S-15S). The Panel of
Cosmetic Ingredients Review (CIR) (The Panel) indicated that chlorphenesin is well
absorbed when tested on the rats’ skin. However, as the absence of toxicity data, the
Panel concluded that chlorphenesin is safe for use in the concentrations allowed.
Chlorphenesin is hazardous by inhalation, in contact with skin, and if swallowed. It
can cause skin and eye irritation.

3. Planning
There are some suggestions to reduce people’s exposure to the above chemicals in
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%. If the concentrations of these
substances are in an allowed dose, it would be fine and there is almost no hazards.
However, if people apply a large amount of this product to their skin on a daily
basis, the possible risks are skin and eye irritation or oral harm if these chemicals
are swallowed. It is recommended that people should apply 4-5 small drops on the
forehead, cheeks, nose and chin before spreading it on the entire face. People
having dehydrated and dry skin are noted that The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% +
Zinc 1% is not that hydrating, so people should use a toner before applying this
serum. In the ingredient list of this product, the chemicals including Niacinamide,
Zinc, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin can cause serious skin/eye
irritation or ingestion issues. When you have skin irritation problems, wash
exposed area with soap and water. About eye irritation, it is suggested that you
rinse your eyes immediately with water for 15 minutes. (Vertellus Specialty
Chemicals, 2019). The exposed area should be examined by medical experts if it is
still irritated after being washed. Unfortunately, if the chemicals are swallowed,
contact physician immediately. Keep in mind that do not give anything by mouth to
other people. Especially, people should see how the skin responds when applying
this product. The labels "sensitivity tested” or "non-irritating" does not assure that
your skin will not react. If your skin reacts badly to this serum, stop using it
immediately to avoid possible harms.
4. Reflection
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5. References
The Ordinary, 2020. The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%. [Online]
Available at: https://theordinary.deciem.com/product/rdn-niacinamide-10pct-zinc-
1pct-30ml?ccvis=1
[Accessed 26 November 2020].
Healthline, 2018. Niacinamide: Benefits, Uses and Side Effects. [Online]
Available at: https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/niacinamide#bottom-line
[Accessed 26 November 2020]
Making Cosmetics, 2015. Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide). [Online]
Available at: http://www.makingcosmetics.com/msds/sds-niacinamide.pdf?
__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=43a537afa79788e51ad6e0ae987ad35a28a8d859-1606671347-
0-AdxgN-
F0dCxzlITX2oCWw6UDHm376JGV6Bi6bmiRiXDqFnDXUeR1BiD_7XrErD5puQ
JD2StZRJGKl4SsqcI-fJhi1CaNBS-
Yvvjidr7VFr8CejKJJxPXKKm4ilcyfI6AjJyzqurW7IgGBy9CejmV-qPkEAQeVT-
_md-4wjTIHpU1w7PajgQnmzJb946_QhYlw5ySS0l6Lg2b-
jlP8OlskX9wwYEWNIWaHJ8QyrNfjQnHJtuIaG7qzq_FJWL_wOJ1KTGsERxv1E
LgzqwWzdlxX5J3agyncLBZiiIZbi6_0RrvwH95k29cnYgEILJc2YY4Pboe9Q9aNZ
8vFg0CcBGb737o3kfdZbNdUg4EY-
8CJyeR9b3b6d958zI3Eu9CsRlmhHuKX1OWrrhq8p6ypne_8oc
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Takino Y, Okura F, Kitazawa M, Iwasaki K, Tagami H., 2011. Zinc l-pyrrolidone

carboxylate inhibits the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by
in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it enhances their collagen synthesis .
34(1):23-8.

Science Lab, 2012. Material Safety Data Sheet Propylene glycol MSDS. [Online]
Available at:
https://hmdb.ca/system/metabolites/msds/000/001/472/original/HMDB01881.pdf?
1358895490
[Accessed 27 November 2020]
U.S. Food & Drug Administration, 2019. SUBSTANCES GENERALLY
RECOGNIZED AS SAFE. [Online]
Available at:
https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?
fr=582.4666
[Accessed 27 November 2020]
Postepy Dermatol Alergol, 2017. Fabrication of Tamarindus indica seeds extract loaded-
cream for photo-aged skin. 34(4): 339–345 , doi: 10.5114/ada.2017.69314
Joseph, Joshny, S. N. Kanchalochana, G. Rajalakshmi, Vedha Hari, and Ramya Devi
Durai, 2012. Tamarind 988 seed polysaccharide: A promising natural excipient for
pharmaceuticals. International Journal of 989 Green Pharmacy 6 270 - 278.
Mishra, Anuradha, and Annu Vij Malhotra, 2009. Tamarind xyloglucan: a
polysaccharide with versatile 1006 application potential. Journal of Materials Chemistry
DOI: 10.1039/b911150f.

WebMD, n.d. XANTHAN GUM. [Online]

Available at: https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-340/xanthan-gum

[Accessed 28 November 2020]
Spectrum, 2017. Isoceteth-20 Safety data sheet. [Online]
Available at: https://www.spectrumchemical.com/MSDS/A1792_AGHS.pdf
[Accessed 28 November 2020]
The Derm Review, 2020. Why Is Ethoxydiglycol In My Hair Care? [Online]
Available at: https://thedermreview.com/ethoxydiglycol/
[Accessed 29 November 2020]
Michalun, M. V., & DiNardo, J. C. (2014). Skin care and cosmetic ingredients
dictionary. Cengage Learning.
Dréno, B., Zuberbier, T., Gelmetti, C., Gontijo, G., & Marinovich, M. , (2019).
Safety review of phenoxyethanol when used as a preservative in cosmetics.  Journal
of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 33, 15-24.
Johnson Jr, W., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D.,
Liebler, D. C., ... & Andersen, F. A. (2014). Safety Assessment of Chlorphenesin as
Used in Cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 33(2_suppl), 5S-15S.

Vertellus Specialty Chemicals, 2019. Niacinamide Safety data sheet. [Online]

Available at: https://www.vertellus.com/Documents/msds/Niacinamide

%20(Nicotinamide)%20English.pdf

[Accessed 29 November 2020]