Computerized

Embroidery
Machine
Ishika Malu
BFT/19/62
INDEX
Introduction
Parts of an embroidery machine
Free-motion machine embroidery
Cornely hand-guided embroidery
Computerized machine embroidery
Single head Embroidery Machine
Multi head Embroidery Machine
Schiffli Embroidery Machine
Backing
Reasons of the problems
Process
References
 oduction
Intr

The embroidery art is no

longer thought to be the
sole pride of grandmothers
and homemakers. Machines
have long stolen this ancient art away
from women who had made this their
favorite leisure activity.
Today you have the most intricate designs
being done by computerized machines.
Machine embroidery is an
embroidery process whereby a
sewing machine or embroidery
machine is used to create patterns
on textiles. It is used
commercially in product branding,
corporate advertising, and uniform
adornment. It is also used in the
fashion industry to decorate
garments and apparel. Machine
embroidery is used by hobbyists
and crafters to decorate gifts,
clothing, and home decor. Examples
include designs on quilts,
pillows, and wall hangings.
There are multiple types of
machine embroidery. Free-motion
sewing machine embroidery uses a
basic zigzag sewing machine.
Designs are done manually. Most
commercial embroidery is done with
link stitch embroidery. In link
stitch embroidery, patterns may be
manually or automatically
controlled. Link Stitch embroidery
is also known as chenille
embroidery and was patented by
Pulse Microsystems in 1994. More
modern computerized machine
embroidery uses an embroidery
machine or sewing/embroidery
machine that is controlled with a
computer that embroiders stored
patterns. These machines may have
multiple heads and threads.
Parts of an
Embroidery
Machine
Free-motion machine embroidery

In free-motion machine embroidery, embroidered designs are created b

using a basic zigzag sewing machine. As this type of machine is used
primarily for tailoring, it lacks the automated features of a
specialized machine. The first zigzag sewing machine was patented by
Helen Blanchard.
To create free-motion machine embroidery, the embroiderer runs the
machine and skillfully moves tightly hooped fabric under the needle
to create a design. The "feed dogs" or machine teeth are lowered or
covered, and the embroiderer moves the fabric manually. The
embroiderer develops the embroidery manually, using the machine's
settings for running stitch and fancier built-in stitches. In this
way, the stitches form an image on a piece of fabric. An embroiderer
can produce a filled-in effect by sewing many parallel rows of
straight stitching. A machine's zigzag stitch can create thicker
lines within a design or be used to create a border. Many quilters
and fabric artists use a process called thread drawing (or thread
painting) to create embellishments on their projects or to create
textile art.
Free-motion machine embroidery can be time-consuming. Since a
standard sewing machine has only one needle, the operator must pause
to re-thread the machine manually for each subsequent color in a
multi-color design. He or she must also manually trim and clean up
loose or connecting threads after the design is completed.
As this is a manual process rather than a digital reproduction, any
pattern created using free-motion machine embroidery is unique and
cannot be exactly reproduced, unlike with computerized embroidery.
With the advent of computerized machine embroidery, the main use of
manual machine embroidery is in fiber art and quilting projects.
Though some manufacturers still use manual embroidery to embellish
garments, many prefer computerized embroidery's ease and reduced
costs.
Cornely
hand-
guided
embroidery

This embroidery inherited the name of the Cornely

machine. Created in the 19th century to imitate
the Beauvais stitch (chain stitch), it is still
used today, especially in the fashion industry.
Cornely embroidery is a so-called hand-guided
embroidery. The operator directs his machine
according to the pattern. The fabric is moved by
a crank located under the machine. The Cornely
also has a universal drive system controlled by a
handle.
Some models can embroider sequins, cords, braids,
etc. There are also Cornely machines performing a
classic straight stitch.
Computerized
Machine
embroidery
Most modern embroidery machines
are computer controlled and
specifically engineered for
embroidery. Industrial and
commercial embroidery machines
and combination sewing-
embroidery machines have a
hooping or framing system that
holds the framed area of fabric
taut under the sewing needle and
moves it automatically to create
a design from a pre-programmed
digital embroidery pattern.

Depending on its capabilities, the machine will require

varying degrees of user input to read and sew embroidery
designs. Sewing-embroidery machines generally have only one
needle and require the user to change thread colors during
the embroidery process. Multi-needle industrial machines are
generally threaded prior to running the design and do not
require re-threading. These machines require the user to
input the correct color change sequence before beginning to
embroider. Some can trim and change colors automatically.[4]
A multi-needle machine may consist of multiple sewing heads,
each of which can sew the same design onto a separate
garment concurrently. Such a machine might have 20 or more
heads, each consisting of 15 or more needles. A head is
usually capable of producing many special fabric effects,
including satin stitch embroidery, chain stitch embroidery,
sequins, appliqué, and cutwork.
 Benefits of Computerized
Embroidery

Computerized embroidery machines can be used

to sew some very complicated designs which
involve a lot of time and labor.

Easy to operate and understand

You can easily sew designs of your choice using computerized
embroidery. Using these machines does not require a lot of
professional knowledge and expertise.

Accuracy
Machine-made designs are usually high on accuracy as it has all
the parameters well defined before the machine starts to
translate the designs into stitches on the material.

Speed
Hand-made embroidery is sure expensive. However, it requires a
lot of human labor, and the reason for the high price is
justified. Machine-made embroidery is faster and more efficient.
Patterns can be converted into digital formats, which in turn can
be sewn onto fabrics. It saves a lot of time and is ideal for
large-scale production.
A computerized machine can help complete designs in a few
minutes, which otherwise would take more than a week by hand.

Flexible
You can use the pre-designed templates and make precise
adjustments to them. Thus, it allows for editing of the designs
before using them on materials.
Single- head Embroidery Machine
• Single-head Embroidery machine are similar to basic
lockstitch sewing machines.
• They are developed for producing small orders and
are used for customizing garments.
• Single –head machine are most often used for custom
work and monogramming.
• They may be manually operated or computer
controlled.
• Manually operated machine depend on skilled
operators to position and manipulate material under
the needle.
• Computerized Embroidery machines are designed to
stitch the selected design and all the operator must
do is place the garment.
• Technology has expanded the use of single head
Embroidery machine.
• A computer network can interface and control
multiple single- head machines so that each machine
can run completely different embroidery program at
the same time.
• This allows manufacturer to customize their
services and produce very small order as needed by
their customer .
• For example, to stitch a small order of three on a
large multihead machine wastes capacity that could
better be used for large orders.
30.
 Advantages
• The largest market for single-head machines is short-run
corporate identity (golf and polo shirts, caps and other
corporate clothing).
• Some mid-size uniform customers, such as hospitals and
restaurant chains, try to add their own embroidery equipment
in-house. For the most part, the store whose primary
customers are individuals and groups, customization requests
are often farmed out.
• By adding tools such as the SWF-1501C Compact Automatic
Embroidery Machine, or the Advance 1501C Professional
Machine at a better price and warranty, you can have the
freedom to provide individual units for samples, even small
production runs.
• Mixing digital direct-to-garment printing (DTG) with
embroidery, spangles and rhinestones is a fast growing
fashion trend. A variety of different decoration styles can
set your shop apart from the crowd.
• Another advantage is price, Startup costs are
significantly lower with the single-head over multi-headed
machines, making it an affordable way to expand your product
line.

Disadvantage
• Space is also an issue. A compact needle machine
accommodates up to 100 designs and has a top speed of 1,200
stitches per minute but takes up only 2.5’x2.5′ of space.
• It is not suitable for large orders and evergreen classic
designs.
 Multi headed Embroidery Machine

• Multi-head embroidery machine is similar to single-

head embroidery machine except they contain two or
more heads that stitch the same pattern
simultaneously.
• Smaller areas are best Embroidered with more close-
set heads ,larger patterns require wider needle range
and fewer heads.
• Border machine provides the more flexibility ,
because close- sets hand can be space closed together
and alternate heads can be coupled to allow stitching
of a wider pattern.
• With multi-head machines, garments are individually
hoped and inserted horizontally under each head.
• Each head utilizes 1 to 6 needles and up to 6
colors in stitching a design.
• Machine are purchase with specific number of heads.
• The optimal number of heads is generally dependant
on the firm’s average order size, average number of
stitches per design, and size of the area to be
stitched.
• Higher stitch count are more efficiently produced
on machines with more heads.
• Loading time , which entails inserting the fabric
or garment component under the machine head, should
be less then stitching time if the operation is to be
productive.
• More heads requires more loading time ,and for
design with a lower stitch count , there is more
ideal time during the loading process.
 Advantages
• If you find that your
order is for larger designs
that take longer time to sew,
a larger system will be better.
• An extended run time is balanced out
by the increased setup time, so more heads
will be better.
• A two-head machine could be a perfect fit for
your business.
• You can save time on elaborate embroidery
involving high stitch counts by putting them on an
Advancé 4 Head Professional Embroidery Machine as
opposed to a single- head machine, or possibly
even a 6 head machine.

Disadvantages
• It is not suitable for small orders due to high
productivity compare to the single head machine.
• Machine is very expensive so not recommended for
a small scale company having less orders.
 Schiffli Embroidery
• Schiffli Embroidery machine are large , loomlike machines
used to stitch designs on length of piece goods.
• They are used to embroider piece goods ,produce emblems ,
and make novelty and venise lace trims.
• Most machine operates with two frames that hold two
fabric length of 10,15 and 21 yards that span the frames
which are mounted vertically , have controlled vertical and
horizontal movement directed by punched tape or a computer
disk.
• Action of some types of schiffli machines are controlled
by an automat , which is a system of rods ,cams ,and levers
used to read punched tapes and direct Embroidery frames in
forming a design.
• Needle are mounted on two horizontal fixed tracks that
span the length of the frames.
• Needle bar moves needle horizontally in and out of piece
in goods in synchronization with frame movement.
• Needles are pushed into frame piece goods and retracted
for stitch formation.
• A stitched Pattern evolves from frame movement.
• Borers, which puncture fabric and push aside yarns prior
to stiching are mounted directly below the needle bars to
make eyelet fabrics and trims.
• Schiffli Embroidered fabric may experience a reduction in
yardage because of the heavy concentration of stitches.
• Because of complexity, size and cost of schiffli
equipment and the specialized training and expertise
required to operate it, most apparel firm use contractor
that specialise in schiffli work.
• Fabrics can be sent to contractors to embroider, or
Embroider trims can be special ordered.
 Backing
• Backing has the
job of enabling s
contoured embroid harp-
ery free from def
due to pulling ormation
• It gives the em
broidery base the
necessary dimensi
onal stability in
conjunction with
the underlay stit
• It may be remov ching
ed after the embr
process by tearin oidery
g, cutting away o
dissolving r
• For materials w
ith a nap, the ba
can be supported cking
by a soluble film
top of the embroi on the
dered item. The s
are prevented fro titches
m sinking into th
a water- or heat- e nap by
soluble backing o
suitable film r a

MATERIAL BACKING
Fine knitwear, very fine Cut away backing, in order to avoid material

woven fabrics damages while tearing away the backing

Woven fabric, stable Tear away backing

knitwear

Transparent materials, Water- or heat soluble backing for the purpose of

embroideries which are complete removal

visible as well from the

reverse side

Tear or cut away backing + water-soluble film on the

Terry cloth, velvet, velours
top
 Common Reasons for Sewing &
Embroidery Machines to
Malfunction

• Needle Breaks
• Loops on top or bottom of fabric during sewing
• Upper thread breaks
• Lower thread breaks
• Skips stitches
• Machine runs slow and/or noisy
• Material tends to Pucker during Sewing Embroidering
• Design Out Of Register
• Needle Cuts or Holes in Garments
 The computerized machine
embroidery process
Basically, we start from a vector drawing and tell the machine to
translate it to another kind of vector drawing from which stitches
then can be generated. Although advanced home user software is pretty
smart in converting vector drawings to stitchable sections and the
latter to stitch commands, you may have to intervene manually and/or
at least set a few parameters in order to get a decent enough result.
A typical "workflow" for creating an embroidery includes the
following steps.
Create a drawing (by hand or with a drawing software) or download
an image
Import the drawing into an embroidery software
Convert to editable vector drawing format if the drawing is in
raster format
Adapt the drawing to the constraints of the embroidery (eliminate
the fine details, reduce the colors)
Transform the drawing into "embroidery objects". An embroidery
object defines an areas for which embroidery stitches generated
according to various parameters specified by the designer and / or
the default system
Adjust / re-adjust these embroidery objects (embroidery types,
stitch density, patterns, embroidery order, etc.)
Convert to executable format for a machine brand (.pes, .art,
.jef, .dst etc.)
Stitch the design (load it into a machine
A slightly more complex workflow model is shown below. Good
embroidery software should allow to draw and/or import drawings made
with standard drawing software such as Illustrator or Inkscape. Then
you have to be able to translate the drawing objects into embroidery
objects and define their properties such as density, color, type of
fill, etc. Through this information, embroidery stitches are
generated, which can be edited to make micro-adjustments. All these
drawings and other information are saved in a proprietary design
file. The last step is to translate the embroidery objects into an
executable file (point positions, thread changes, entry/exist
instructions) by the embroidery machine. This type of file is not
very editable, but easy to convert from one machine format to
another.
Design files
Digitized embroidery design files can be either purchased
or created with industry-specific embroidery digitizing
software. Embroidery file formats broadly fall into two
categories. The first, source formats, are specific to the
software used to create the design. For these formats, the
digitizer keeps the original file for the purposes of
editing. The second, machine formats, are specific to a
particular brand or model of embroidery machine, they
contain primarily stitch data (offsets) and machine
functions (stitch, trims, jumps, etc.) and are thus not
easily scaled or edited without extensive manual work.
However, because these files easy to decode, they serve as
easy exchange formats, with some formats such as Tajima's
.dst and Melco's .exp being so prevalent that they have
effectively become industry standards and are often
supported directly by machines built by rival companies, or
through provided software to convert them for the machine.
Many embroidery designs can be downloaded in popular
machine formats from embroidery websites. However, since
not all designs are available for every machine's specific
format, some machine embroiderers use conversion programs
to convert from one machine's format file to another, with
various degrees of reliability.
A person who creates a design is known as an embroidery
digitizer or puncher. A digitizer uses software to create
an object-based embroidery design, which can be easily
reshaped and edited. These files retain important
information such as object outlines, thread colors, and
original artwork used to punch the designs. When the file
is converted to a stitch file, it loses much of this
information, rendering editing difficult or impossible.
Software vendors often advertise auto-punching or auto-
digitizing capabilities. However, if high-quality
embroidery is essential, then industry experts highly
recommend either purchasing solid designs from reputable
digitizers or obtaining training on solid digitization
techniques.
 Editing designs
Once a design has been digitized, an embroiderer can use
software to edit it or combine it with other designs. Most
embroidery programs allow the user to rotate, scale, move,
stretch, distort, split, crop, or duplicate the design in
an endless pattern. Most software allows the user to add
text quickly and easily. Often the colors of the design
can be changed, made monochrome, or re-sorted. More
sophisticated packages allow the user to edit, add, or
remove individual stitches. Some embroidery machines have
rudimentary built-in design editing features.

Loading the design

After editing the final design, the file is loaded into the
embroidery machine. Different machines require different
formats that are proprietary to that company. Common design
file formats for the home and hobby market include .ART, .HUS,
.JEF, .PES, .SEW, and .VIP. Embroidery patterns can be
transferred to the computerized embroidery machines through
cables, CDs, floppy disks, USB interfaces, or special cards
that resemble flash or compact cards.
Due to some commonality between the controllers and the
software manufacturers, some of the formats are headers and
additional information surrounding similarly encoded stitches.
.TAP is a .DST file without the header. .EXP file stitches are
very close to .JEF, .SHV and .SEW but without the surrounding
data about thread color and hoop positioning. .10o is encoded
in the same manner as .F01, .GT, .DSB, .DAT, .INB and .U01 but
with different headers and surrounding information.
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Embroidering the design

Finally, the embroide
ry machine is starte
monitored. For commer d and
cial machines, this
automated than for th process is more
e home machines. Many
require more than on designs
e colour and may invo
processing for appliq lve additional
ués, foam, or other
effects. Since home special
machines have only on
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es the user to cut th
change the colour ma e thread and
nually. In addition,
have one or more jump most designs
s that need to be cu
the quality and size t. Depending on
of the design, sewing
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from a few minutes to
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 Reference

https://edutechwiki.unige.ch/en/Embroidery_st
itch_type
http://textilescommittee.nic.in/sites/default
/files/course-content/gar4.pdf
https://www.slideshare.net/MeenakshiGupta28/t
ypes-of-embroidery-machine
https://www.textileschool.com/264/types-of-
machine-embroidery/
http://wiki.embroiderymachine.com/index.php?
title=Embroidery_Machines&action=edit
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_embroid
ery
https://www.textileschool.com/textiles/finish
ing/embroidery/

Thank you