MARTIAN BOY

a free crochet pattern by Luna

Please do not redistribute this pattern, link to my Ravelry account instead.

As for the finished doll, feel free to do whatever you want with it including selling –
however someone else might be coming after you, so tread with care…
 2

Materials
Yarns:
- white: for converse soles
- beige (or red): converse top
- brown (or blue): suit
- blue (or whatever you prefer): shirt
- peach, pink or cream: skin
Small amounts of each, best from a single brand. Yarn weight is not important, just
choose the hook accordingly.
For his hair, you can either use the same brown or go for a different shade, or even a
different yarn altogether (but then you might have to adjust the hair cap).
Additionally, you’ll need scraps of dark blue or whatever color you prefer for tie, and a
finer yarn or embroidery floss in white for shoelace.
For stuffing, you can use polyfill only, or put weighting material into the feet to help the
doll stand. Poly pellets or glass beads work fine. Do not use peas or any other stuff that
could mould or be eaten by bugs!
You will also need something for eyes – I use 4 mm black beads for dolls made of DK
yarn with 2,5 or 3 mm hook. Best is to test a few different sizes to see what looks nice
with your doll.
To fix the sticky-uppy hair to the head, you will need some textile glue.

Abbreviations (aka you need to know how to do):

ch - chain
st - stitch
sc - single crochet
sl st - slip stitch
BLO - back loop only
sc2tog - single crochet 2 together = single crochet decrease
dc2tog - double crochet 2 together = double crochet decrease
hdc - half double crochet
You can work in spirals if you prefer so, but for the legs I advise to work in joined
rounds, so their top will be even and easy to join.

A free pattern by Luna (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130)

Feel free to contact me ( lunacollie@gmail.com , or via Ravelry) if you have any problem following the
pattern, or you notice a mistake, or just to show me your creation.
 3

So: allons-y!

Legs
With white, ch 5.
1. 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 4 sc in last ch, then continue working on
the other side of the foundation chain, to the free loops of the chains: sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc
in next ch, sl st to join to the first sc you made (12)
Change to beige
2. ch 1, then working BLO the whole row:

a) sc in next 3 st, change to white and sc in next 6 st, then change back to beige and sc in
next 3 st, sl st to join (12)
OR
b) sc into each st around with linen, sl st to join (12) – you can embroider on the white tip
of the converse later

3. ch 1, sc in next 3 st, sc2tog, dc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next 3 st, sl st to join (9)

4: ch 1, sc into each st around, sl st to join (9)
Change to brown
5-9: ch 1, sc into each st around, sl st to join (9)
Finish off after row 9, and make the other leg the same way.

If you use polyfill only, stuff the shoes when you change to suit color, then the rest when
the leg is finished. If using weighting material, wait with stuffing until you finish off.
Make sure that the material gets into the toes, then fill up the whole leg. To keep it from
spilling while you work on, push a little fiberfill on top.

Torso:
Put the two legs together and find the innermost two stitches that are touching. Still using
brown, make a knot across these two stitches, thus fixing the legs together, then pull up a
loop through the same stitches and chain 1.

A free pattern by Luna (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130)

Feel free to contact me ( lunacollie@gmail.com , or via Ravelry) if you have any problem following the
pattern, or you notice a mistake, or just to show me your creation.
 4

1: Turn the legs so that the feet point away from you, and start to crochet - first on the left
leg going around from rear to front, make a sc into each st (except the one you used to tie
the two legs together), then continue on the other leg. You should end up with 16 stitches.

You can continue working in joined rounds if you prefer so – I find working in spiral
easier so I use that method from here on.

2: sc into each st around (16)

3: sc into next 3 st, sc2tog, sc into next 6 st, sc2tog, sc into next 3 st (14)

Change to shirt color

4: working in BLO: sc in next 3 st, sc2tog, sc in next 5 st, sc2tog, sc in next 2 st (12)
5-10: sc in each st around (12)
Stuff body.
11: sc2tog 6 times (6)

Change to skin color

12: 2 sc in each st (12)
13: [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times (18)
14: [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times (24)
15-17: sc in each st (24)
18: [sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 6 times (18)
19: [sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times (12)
Stuff head; if using safety eyes insert them to their place now - they should be placed
between the 4th and 5th skin color rows, 3-4 stitches apart.
20: sc2tog 6 times.
Finish off, use yarn end to close the tiny hole.

Suit jacket:
With brown, chain 11.
1: sc in 2nd chain from hook, [2sc in next st, sc in next st] 4 times, 2 sc in last st (15); ch
1 and turn
2: sc in each st (15); ch 1 and turn
3: 2 sc in 1st st, sc in next 13 st, 2 sc in next st (17); ch1 and turn
4: sc in each st (17); ch 1 and turn
Time for fitting: put the jacket around the doll. The edges should almost or just touching.
17 sc worked fine for me, but you might need to make adjustments: if the edges are more
than 1 sc apart, increase one or two in the next row; if they are overlapping then go back
to row 3 and make less increases.
5-8: sc in each st; ch1 and turn
9: sc in each st, don’t finish off!
To make the edge neat and add lapels: work 2 more sc in the last st of row 9, then work
on along the edge, one sc in each row, until you reach row 4. Work 1 hdc to the edge of
row 4, 2 hdc to row 3 and row 2, skip the edge of row 1 and work a sl st to the free loop
of the starting chain instead. Along the neck, sl st into the free loops of the starting chain.

A free pattern by Luna (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130)

Feel free to contact me ( lunacollie@gmail.com , or via Ravelry) if you have any problem following the
pattern, or you notice a mistake, or just to show me your creation.
 5

Then a sc and a hdc into the edge of row 2, 2 hdc in the edge of row 3,hdc in the edge of
row 4, sc into the remaining rows, finish off leaving a long tail.

Arms:
Start with skin color.
1: 6 sc in magic ring
2: [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times (9)
3: [sc in next st, sc2tog] 3 times (6)
Switch to brown
4-9: sc in each st (6)
Finish off leaving a long tail. Push only a small blob of stuffing into hand, no need to
stuff the rest of arm.

Before sewing the parts together, ebroider his tie. Then wrap the jacket around the doll’s
torso and use the long yarn end you left to sew it on (it looks best if you only sew the
edges together around row 6-7.) If necessary, also fix the lapels in position with a few
stitches. Then sew on arms.

Ears:
With skin color of course, make 3 sc in magic ring, finish off. Pull the ring tight to get an
ear shape.

Pin ears to head, and also the eyes if you haven’t added them earlier (eyes should be
placed between the 4th and 5th skin color rows, 3-4 stitches apart; ears about the same
height to the sides of the head). If you like the placement, sew everything on.

A free pattern by Luna (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130)

Feel free to contact me ( lunacollie@gmail.com , or via Ravelry) if you have any problem following the
pattern, or you notice a mistake, or just to show me your creation.
 6

Hair cap:
You might need to make adjustments especially if working with a yarn different from the
rest, so try it on often! The goal is to cover up the top of the head (rows 1-3), leaving
forehead open but covering the area above ears (row 4) and then covering the back half of
the head (row 5-9)

Idea – if you have brown microfiber yarn it might be worth to give it a try. At least the
one I own (Micro by Schachenmayr Nomotta) is wrapped from 4 thin standalone flosses
that unwrap when cut short, so they will look like nice thin hair strands

1: 6 sc in magic ring
2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
3: [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times (18); ch 1 and turn
4: sl st in next 2 st, sc in the next 10 st; ch1 and turn
5: sl st in next 2 st, sc in the next 8 st; ch 1 and turn
6-8: sc in each st; ch1 and turn
9: sc in each st, finish off leaving long tail

Check if hair cap fits nicely. Cut a long piece of yarn, thread in yarn needle and start to
cover the top of head area of the cap with loops. Don’t bother too much to make them
exactly the same size as it will all be trimmed later.
When you’re done with the sewing, cover the crown area on the inside of the hair cap
with textile glue and put it to the head. Use pins to keep it in place and let the glue set. It
will not only hold the cap itself in position but also prevents the individual hair strands
from slipping out.

Hair cap glued on loops cut up hair after trimming

Once the glue settled, remove the pins. Use the yarn end from the hair cap to sew the
edges of the cap to head (the glue was only for the top). Then, starting at the nape,
embroider “hair lines” to the back of the head, several rows until you reach to the area
covered by loops. Don’t forget to add the sideburns! After the embroidery is done, use a
pair of small scissors to cut the loops open. Then give the Doctor a haircut - the sticky-
uppy strands should be very short at the back and gradually longer towards the forehead.

A free pattern by Luna (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130)

Feel free to contact me ( lunacollie@gmail.com , or via Ravelry) if you have any problem following the
pattern, or you notice a mistake, or just to show me your creation.
 7

Almost done! The only thing left is the shoes. Embroider the white part of the converse if
you worked with linen or red only in row 2 of the legs. If you worked with two colors, it
could still use a little neatening, using white yarn and a yarn needle tidy up the edge (I
like to use chain stitches for this).

Use thin white yarn or embroidery thread for shoelaces – to make sure that the bows will
stay in place, you can use a dot of clear nail polish, or sew through the center several
times with regular sewing thread.

THE END

A free pattern by Luna (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130)

Feel free to contact me ( lunacollie@gmail.com , or via Ravelry) if you have any problem following the
pattern, or you notice a mistake, or just to show me your creation.