Granny Square Blanket

A crochet pattern + video tutorial by Staci Perry, www.verypink.com

Getting Started.
Size: Any size, each finished block of 6 rounds in the gauge below is approximately 6” square
Hook: Size H crochet hook (5mm)
Yarn: Three colors of worsted weight (10 ply) yarn (info on yardage amounts below)
Additional Materials: Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Gauge: 4 double crochet stitches per inch

Typical Blanket Sizes: A baby blanket (at 42” square), will require 49 granny square blocks (7 blocks by 7 blocks).
A throw blanket (at 48” x 66”) will require 88 granny squares (8 blocks by 11 blocks). A king-sized bedspread (at 90”
square) will require 225 granny square blocks (15 blocks by 15 blocks). You can use the information in this pattern to
make any size of blanket.

Yardage: In the gauge listed above, each granny square will require approximately 32 yards of yarn. In the photo
above and in the video, I change color every two rounds.
For a 42” square baby blanket, 49 granny squares, changing color every two rounds:
● Color A (center of square), 220 yards
● Color B, 588 yards
● Color C (becomes border color for each square), 760 yards
For a 48” x 66” throw, 88 granny squares, changing color every two rounds:
● Color A (center of square), 396 yards
● Color B, 1056 yards
● Color C (becomes border color for each square), 1364 yards
For a 90” square king-sized bedspread, 225 granny square blocks, changing color every two rounds:
● Color A (center of square), 1012 yards
● Color B, 2700 yards
● Color C (becomes border color for each square), 3488 yards

Note: Working in a different gauge will require different yardage amounts. You can work up a single granny square and
measure the amount you will need if you choose to use a different yarn weight and/or hook size.
Abbreviations (plus video links to slow demonstrations for each stitch):
CH – chain http://youtu.be/RMMbD6hEA6M
DC – double crochet http://youtu.be/gp0ZR9WnHy4
SL – slip stitch http://youtu.be/dZ4OXb_SGYw

Video Part 1 - Getting started: http://youtu.be/LBG4ancDmWI

Video Part 2: Working the second round: http://youtu.be/LBG4ancDmWI?t=5m52s
Video Part 3: Working the third round and changing colors: http://youtu.be/LBG4ancDmWI?t=11m35s
Video Part 4: Seaming: http://youtu.be/LBG4ancDmWI?t=17m19s

Directions.
CH 4. Stab your hook into the top leg of the first chain and SL, creating a circle out of the chain.

Round 1: You’re going to be creating all of these stitches in the center of the circle you just made, not stabbing through
stitches. CH 3, DC 2, *CH 2, DC 3* 3 times. CH 2, then SL into the top leg of the 3rd chain you created at the beginning
of this round. SL across 2 more stitches until you get to the first CH 2 gap you made, then SL into that CH 2 gap.

Round 2: You’re going to be working in the CH 2 gaps you created on the last round. In the first gap, CH 3, DC 2, CH 2,
DC 3, CH 1. In the other three gaps *DC 3, CH 2, DC 3, CH 1*. SL into the 3rd chain you created at the beginning of this
round. (If you’re changing colors here, break the yarn and pull the end through the last loop. If you’re continuing with
the same color, SL across 2 stitches until you get to the next chain gap.)

Round 3: In this round, you’ll continue to work in the CH 2 gaps you created at the corners, as well as the CH 1 gaps
along the side of the work. In the first corner gap CH 3, DC 2, CH 2, DC 3, CH 1. In the side gap, DC 3, CH 1. At the
second corner, DC 3, CH 2, DC 3, CH 1. In the second side gap, DC 3, CH 1. Continue this way with the other gaps -
working 2 DC clusters in each corner gap and chaining two stitches between them, and working a single DC cluster in
each side gap, chaining 1 stitch each time you move on to a new gap.

Rounds 4-6: Continue as you did in Round 3. With each round, you will have one more side gap. (Round 4 has 2 side
gaps, Round 5 has 3 side gaps, Round 6 has 4 side gaps, etc.) Regardless of how many rounds you do on each square,
the way you work them stays the same:
● In the first corner gap you work, CH 3, DC 2, CH 2, DC 3, CH 1
● In each side gap you work, DC 3, CH 1
● In each of the other three corner gaps you work, DC 3, CH 2, DC 3, CH 1
● You always CH 2 at the corners, and CH 1 when you’re traveling from one gap to the next.

To connect a new color, put your hoop through a chain gap (any gap), and pull up a loop. Use double-strands (both the
tail and the working yarn) on the first couple chains you work to weave in the end.

SEAMING:
Crocheted seaming goes really quickly! Put the right sides together, and grab the “outside” leg from the front square,
and the corresponding outside leg from the back square. Yarn over, and slip stitch those two together. Work across. I
find it best to seam squares into long strips, then seam the long strips together.

FINISHING:
Use a tapestry needle to weave in your ends, and follow the washing instructions for your yarn to wash and block your
blanket.
Copyright 2013, Staci Perry. This pattern and pictures are the property of Staci Perry. All rights reserved. Pattern is available for personal use only. No unauthorized reproduction,
in whole or in part, or distribution of this pattern or content, including text or pictures is allowed. No commercial reproduction of garments from this pattern is allowed without prior
permission from Staci Perry. Remember – “personal use” means that this pattern has been purchased/downloaded for one person. Please don’t share copyrighted patterns.